University College London
Institute of Archaeology
ARCLG223: Textile Archaeology
2013-2014
MA/MSc Option, 15 credits
Co-ordinator: Margarita Gleba
m.gleba@ucl.ac.uk
Office hours: Tuesdays 11:00-13:00 Room 105
OVERVIEW
1
Short description
The course aims to provide students with the fundamental understanding of ancient textile technology
and production. This includes an introduction to textile preservation conditions in diverse
archaeological contexts and basics of textile conservation; an overview of raw materials and their
various properties; basics of technological processes involved in the chaîne opératoire of textile
production, including raw material procurement and preparation, spinning, weaving, finishing and
dyeing; critical assessment of traditional and novel analytical methods used in textile studies;
understanding of textile tools; experimental textile archaeology; consideration of economic, social and
gender aspects of textile use and production. Specific examples of archaeological material from
various cultures will be used to illustrate the topics addressed in class, with a particular focus on
Europe and the Near East.
Location
Room B13 between 9.00 and 11.00 on Tuesdays.
Week-by-week summary
th
1: Introduction and course overview; textile uses and functions
st
2: Textile preservation and conservation
th
3: Raw materials: their sources, properties and analysis
14 January
21 January
28 January
th
4 February
th
5: Textile analysis: methods and approaches
th
No session (reading week)
11 February
18 February
25
4: Textile technology
th
February
th
4 March
6: Textile analysis: methods and approaches
7: Textile experimental archaeology
th
8: Social, gender and economic aspects of textiles
th
9: Museum Visit: V&A textile collections at Blythe House
th
10: Seminar: Textiles and textile production in past cultures
11 March
18 March
25 March
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Basic texts
*Barber, E. J. W. (1991) Prehistoric Textiles. The Development of Cloth in the Neolithic
and Bronze Ages. Princeton, Princeton University Press. (INST ARCH KJ BAR – 3 copies)
This is one of the most important books on the subject. Although some aspects are out of
date, it provides an excellent overview and it is an easy read. Specific chapters will be
assigned for some of the following lectures but for now do familiarise yourself with the book.
*Gleba, M. and Mannering, U., eds. (2012) Textiles and Textile Production in Europe from Prehistory
to AD 500. Oxford, Oxbow Books. (INST ARCH KJ GLE)
Introductory chapter provide a quick overview of the subject, while other chapters deal with
specific regions. The most recent and up-to-date overview on much of the European material.
*Wild, J. P. (1988) Textiles in archaeology. Shire. (INST ARCH KJ WIL – 2 copies)
This is an overview and an introduction to the subject.
Methods of assessment
This course is assessed by written coursework totalling 4000 words. There are two pieces of
coursework:
1. A critical essay (950-1,050 words). Provisional deadline: Monday 24 February 2014. Weighting
40%.
Target date for return of marked work: 17 March 2014
2. A project paper (2,850-3,150 words). Provisional deadline: Thursday 17 April 2014. Weighting
60%.
Target date for return of marked work: 16 May 2014
If you are unclear about the nature of an assignment, you should contact the course coordinator. She
will be willing to discuss an outline of your approach to the assessment, provided this is planned
suitably in advance of the submission date.
Teaching methods
The course will include lectures, practical sessions and a seminar. Each session has recommended
readings, which students will be expected to have read in advance in order to follow discussion of the
topic and contribute actively to it. Lectures will generally be followed by practical sessions, which will
include for example textile and textile tool analysis. For the final seminar students will prepare a poster
summarising information on a topic assigned and give a 3-minute presentation of their poster. In
addition, museum visits will be arranged to give students greater familiarity with and deeper
understanding of the material covered in the course.
Workload
There will be 11 hours of lectures and 6 hours of seminar sessions as well as 3 hours of museum
visits for this course. Students will be expected to undertake around 90 hours of reading for the
course, plus 60 hours preparing for and producing the assessed work. This adds up to a total
workload of some 150 hours for the course.
Prerequisites
There are no prerequisites for the course. The lectures and assigned readings will include technical
and scientific content and as such basic knowledge of biology and chemistry would be an advantage,
however it is intended that the course should be comprehensible to students of any background.
AIMS, OBJECTIVES AND ASSESSMENT
Aims
This module will introduce students to a wide range of techniques and approaches used in
archaeological textile studies. More specifically the module aims:
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•
•
•
To introduce students to the technology of textile production focusing on archaeological
examples from European and Near Eastern sites.
To provide an overview of the various methods available for archaeological textile studies and
the data they may provide.
To explore economic, social and gender aspects of textile production, use and trade.
Objectives
On successful completion of this course a student should:
• be familiar with current issues and methods in textile archaeology
• be able to relate the issues in textile archaeology to the broader questions of social and
economic archaeology
• be able to use their knowledge of the archaeology of textiles to develop an innovative project
for their Masters dissertation (if desired)
Learning Outcomes
On successful completion of the module students should be able to have developed:
• critical evaluation skills
• observation skills and basic understanding of textile analysis
• oral presentation skills
• and demonstrated application of acquired knowledge and critical thinking through a
presentation in a seminar, an essay and a practical project.
Coursework
Assessment tasks
1. For the first assessment, students are expected to write a short critical essay (950-1,050 words).
Possible topics:
a. Discuss different ways experimental archaeology is used in textiles studies, uses and pitfalls
in different approaches.
Useful starting references:
• Andersson Strand, E. (2010) Experimental Textile Archaeology. In E. Andersson
Strand, M. Gleba, U. Mannering, C. Munkholt, M. Ringgaard (eds.), North European
Symposium for Archaeological Textiles X, 1-3, Oxford, Oxbow Books (INST ARCH KJ
Qto STR)
• Peacock, E.E. (2001) The contribution of experimental archaeology to the research of
ancient textiles. In Walton Rogers, P., Bender Jorgensen, L., and Rast-Eicher, A.
(eds.), The Roman Textile Industry and its Influence. A Birthday tribute to John Peter
Wild (Exeter): 181-192. (INST ARCH KJ ROG)
• Experimental reports of Tools and Textiles – Texts and Contexts research
programme: http://ctr.hum.ku.dk/research/tools/
b. Combining sources and methods in textile research – good or bad? Discuss the pros and
cons of combining different sources of evidence and different methodologies in textile
investigation.
Useful starting references:
• M. Gleba, “You are What You Wear: Scythian Costume as Identity”, in M. Gleba, C.
Munkholt and M.L. Nosch (eds.), Dressing the Past, 13-28, Oxford, Oxbow Books
(INST ARCH KJ GLE)
• Pollard, A.M. and P. Bray, 2007. A bicycle made for two? The integration of scientific
techniques into archaeological interpretation. Annual Review of Anthropology 36:345–
359. (AVAILABLE ONLINE)
• Wild, J.-P. (2000) Textile Production and Trade in Roman Literature and Written
Sources. In D. Cardon and M. Feugère (eds.), Archéologie des textiles des origines
au Ve siecle, Actes du colloque de Lattes, oct. 1999, 209-214, Monographies
Instrumentum 14, Éditions Monique Mergoul (INST ARCH KJ Qto CAR)
• Wild, J.P. (2007) Methodological Introduction. In C. Gillis and M. L. Nosch (eds.),
Ancient Textiles. Production, Crafts and Society, 1-6, Oxford, Oxbow Books (INST
ARCH KJ GIL)
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c.
Compare and contrast different modes of textile preservation in terms of the information they
provide about textiles – what are the limitations of each as far as research strategies are
concerned?
Useful starting references:
• Chen, H. L., Jakes, K. A., and Foreman, D. W. (1998) Preservation of Archaeological
Textiles Through Fibre Mineralization. Journal of Archaeological Science 25, 1015–
1021. (Available electronically)
• Nosch, M.-L.B., and Gillis, C., eds. (2007) First Aid for the Excavation of
Archaeological Textiles, Ancient Textiles Series 2, Oxford, Oxbow Books (INST
ARCH KJ GIL)
d. Write a book review of one of the books used in this course (for how to write a review you can
consult e.g.: http://www.lavc.edu/library/bookreview.htm ). For example:
• Barber, E. J. W. (1991) Prehistoric Textiles. The Development of Cloth in the Neolithic
and Bronze Ages. Princeton, Princeton University Press. (INST ARCH KJ BAR – 3
copies)
• Burke, B. (2010) From Minos to Midas: Ancient Cloth Production in the Aegean and in
Anatolia. Oxford, Oxbow Books (INST ARCH KJ BUR)
2. For the second assessment, students are to write a project paper (2,850-3,150 words). Possible
topics:
a. Experiment-based (e.g. recreate a textile technique, a tool or an object)
b. Object-based (e.g. investigate an object or group of objects such as textiles or textile tools in
the collections of UCL or one of London Museums).
c. Historiography: (e.g. Discuss the evolution of textile studies over the past 30 years based on
the NESAT volumes or ATN/ATR issue or Explore why textile studies are not integrated into
general archaeological discourse).
d. Topic of your own choice with instructor’s prior agreement.
If students are unclear about the nature of an assignment, they should discuss this with the Course
Co-ordinator.
Students are not permitted to re-write and re-submit essays in order to try to improve their marks.
However, students may be permitted, in advance of the deadline for a given assignment, to submit for
comment a brief outline of the assignment.
The Course Co-ordinator is willing to discuss an outline of the student's approach to the assignment,
provided this is planned suitably in advance of the submission date.
Word-length
Strict new regulations with regard to word-length have been introduced UCL-wide with effect from
January 2013. For submitted coursework, where a maximum length has been specified, the following
procedure will apply:
i) The length of coursework will normally be specified in terms of a word count
ii) Assessed work should not exceed the prescribed length.
iii) For work that exceeds the specified maximum length by less than10% the mark will be reduced by
ten percentage marks; but the penalised mark will not be reduced below the pass mark, assuming the
work merited a pass.
iv) For work that exceeds the specified maximum length by 10% or more, a mark of zero will be
recorded.
The following will not be included in the word-count: title page, contents pages, lists of figures and
tables, abstract, preface, acknowledgements, bibliography, captions and contents of tables and
figures, and appendices.
Submission procedures
Students are required to submit hard copy of all coursework to the course co-ordinators pigeon
hole via the Red Essay Box at Reception by the appropriate deadline. The coursework must be
stapled to a completed coversheet (available from the web, from outside Room 411A or from the
library).
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Please note that new, stringent penalties for late submission have been introduced UCL-wide from
2013 (see below). Late submission will be penalised in accordance with these regulations unless
permission has been granted and an Extension Request Form (ERF) completed.
Date-stamping will be via ‘Turnitin’ (see below), so in addition to submitting hard copy, students must
also submit their work to Turnitin by the midnight on the day of the deadline.
Students who encounter technical problems submitting their work to Turnitin should email the nature
of the problem to ioa-turnitin@ucl.ac.uk in advance of the deadline in order that the Turnitin Advisers
can notify the Course Co-ordinator that it may be appropriate to waive the late submission penalty.
If there is any other unexpected crisis on the submission day, students should telephone or
(preferably) e-mail the Course Co-ordinator, and follow this up with a completed ERF
Please see the Coursework Guidelines on the IoA website (or your Degree Handbook) for further
details of penalties.
The Turnitin 'Class ID' is 611889 and the 'Class Enrolment Password' is IoA1314
Further information is given on the IoA website. Turnitin advisors will be available to help you via
email: ioa-turnitin@ucl.ac.uk if needed.
Penalties for late submission
Please note the following penalties for late submission of coursework without permission.
i) A penalty of 5 percentage marks should be applied to coursework submitted the calendar day after
the deadline (calendar day 1).
ii) A penalty of 15 percentage marks should be applied to coursework submitted on calendar day 2
after the deadline through to calendar day 7.
iii) A mark of zero should be recorded for coursework submitted on calendar day 8 after the deadline
through to the end of the second week of third term. Nevertheless, the assessment will be considered
to be complete provided the coursework contains material than can be assessed.
iv) Coursework submitted after the end of the second week of third term will not be marked and the
assessment will be incomplete.
vii) Where there are extenuating circumstances that have been recognised by the Board of Examiners
or its representative, these penalties will not apply until the agreed extension period has been
exceeded.
Timescale for return of marked coursework to students.
You can expect to receive your marked work within four calendar weeks of the official submission
deadline. If you do not receive your work within this period, or a written explanation from the marker,
you should notify the IoA’s Academic Administrator, Judy Medrington.
Keeping copies
Please note that it is an Institute requirement that you retain a copy (this can be electronic) of all
coursework submitted. When your marked essay is returned to you, you should return it to the marker
within two weeks.
Citing of sources
Coursework should be expressed in a student’s own words giving the exact source of any ideas,
information, diagrams etc. that are taken from the work of others. Any direct quotations from the work
of others must be indicated as such by being placed between inverted commas. Plagiarism is
regarded as a very serious irregularity which can carry very heavy penalties. It is your
responsibility to read and abide by the requirements for presentation, referencing and avoidance of
plagiarism to be found in the IoA ‘Coursework Guidelines’ on the IoA website
ONLINE RESOURCES
The full UCL Institute of Archaeology coursework guidelines are given here:
http://www.ucl.ac.uk/archaeology/handbook/common/marking.htm.
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The full text of this handbook is available here (includes clickable links to Moodle)
http://www.ucl.ac.uk/silva/archaeology/course-info/.
Moodle
ARCLG223: Textile Archaeology
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
Libraries and other resources
In addition to the Library of the Institute of Archaeology, other libraries in UCL with holdings of
particular relevance to this degree are: Institute of Classical Studies Library.
Attendance
A register will be taken at each class. If you are unable to attend a class, please notify the lecturer by
email. Departments are required to report each student’s attendance to UCL Registry at frequent
intervals throughout each term.
Information for intercollegiate and interdepartmental students
Students enrolled in Departments outside the Institute should collect hard copy of the Institute’s
coursework guidelines from Judy Medrington’s office.
Dyslexia
If you have dyslexia or any other disability, please make your lecturers aware of this. Please discuss
with your lecturers whether there is any way in which they can help you. Students with dyslexia are
reminded to indicate this on each piece of coursework.
Feedback
In trying to make this course as effective as possible, we welcome feedback from students during the
course of the year. All students are asked to give their views on the course in an anonymous
questionnaire which will be circulated at one of the last sessions of the course. These questionnaires
are taken seriously and help the Course Co-ordinator to develop the course. The summarised
responses are considered by the Institute's Staff-Student Consultative Committee, Teaching
Committee, and by the Faculty Teaching Committee.
If students are concerned about any aspect of this course we hope they will feel able to talk to the
Course Co-ordinator, but if they feel this is not appropriate, they should consult their Personal Tutor,
the Academic Administrator (Judy Medrington), or the Chair of Teaching Committee (Dr. Mark Lake).
Health and safety
The Institute has a Health and Safety policy and code of practice which provides guidance on
laboratory work, etc. This is revised annually and the new edition will be issued in due course. All
work undertaken in the Institute is governed by these guidelines and students have a duty to be aware
of them and to adhere to them at all times. This is particularly important in the context of the
laboratory/field/placement work which may be undertaken as part of this course.
Glossary of Types of Assessment:
(NB: Roman numerals refer to learning outcomes, see end of document)
Standard Essay – An essay based upon a specific question and researched via a range of reading
(books, journals, online). Alternatively, the readings may be from a given reading list, or
researched in addition to a given reading list (Ia, II)
Book Review – A short critical assessment of a book that also indicates wider knowledge and
contextual situation of the source (Ib)
Powerpoint Presentation – Creation of a Powerpoint presentation file on a specified subject,
integrating texts and graphics. (IVa)
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Project Paper – A lengthy piece of original work on a particular topic featuring elements of
independent research (original research may include a wide range of activities: library
research, site planning, translations, practical study of assemblages, microscopic work, model
building, certain placements [e.g. in museums, schools] etc…). Normally, project papers
include an oral presentation of the project to the rest of the class (Ia, II, III, IVb)
Glossary of Learning Outcomes
Ia – Reasoned and Critical Assessment of Multiple Sources
Ib – Reasoned and Critical Assessment of a Single Source
II – Independent Research Use of Library/ Archival facilities
III – Independent Problem-solving based on Real Data Sets
IVa – Experience in the Production of Presentation Graphics at a Professional level
IVb – Experience in the Oral Presentation of Original Research Results
Va – Time Limited and Invigilated Assessment, Testing Comprehension and Critical Use of Taught
Knowledge
Vb – Time Limited Assessment, permitting use of sources, testing the employment of information
learned in class, as well as appropriate choice of sources, and independent research skills.
VI – Critical Self-reflection and Evaluation of Field Experiences
VII – Demonstration of the ability to Manage and Integrate Different Research Tasks.
VIII – Demonstration of Ability to Work as part of a team towards the Production of an Original Project
IX – Experience in an alternative forms of note taking and essay structure
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SCHEDULE AND SYLLABUS
Teaching schedule
The course will include lectures and seminars. Both lecture and seminar sessions take place in room
B13 between 9.00 and 11.00 on Tuesdays.
A visit to a Museum is scheduled on 18 March 2014. Further details will be announced closer to the
date. Other optional museum visits may be arranged.
Lecturer:
Margarita Gleba (MG)
Guest lecturers:
Joanne Cutler, Centre for Textile Research, University of Copenhagen
Thibaut Deviesse, the British Museum
Sue Harrington, UCL Institute of Archaeology
Susanna Harris, UCL Institute of Archaeology
Syllabus
The following is an outline for the course as a whole, and identifies essential and supplementary
readings relevant to each session. Information is provided as to where in the UCL library system
individual readings are available; their location and Teaching Collection (TC) number, and status
(whether out on loan) can also be accessed on the eUCLid computer catalogue system. Readings
marked with an * are considered essential to keep up with the topics covered in the course.
9
14th Jan. 1: INTRODUCTION AND COURSE OVERVIEW; TEXTILE USES AND
FUNCTIONS
Lecture: The session will start with an introduction into the definitions of textiles, the
various textile functions and the diverse aspects of the past that can be investigated
through textiles. The sources of information used in the study of textiles will be
reviewed. We will then look at the various uses and functions of textiles in past
cultures. (MG)
General reading
*Barber, E. J. W. (1991) Prehistoric Textiles. The Development of Cloth in the Neolithic
and Bronze Ages. Princeton, Princeton University Press. (INST ARCH KJ BAR – 3 copies)
This is one of the most important books on the subject. Although some aspects are out of
date, it provides an excellent overview and it is an easy read. Specific chapters will be
assigned for some of the following lectures but for now do familiarise yourself with the book.
*Bender Jørgensen, L. (2007) The World According to Textiles. In C. Gillis and M. L. Nosch (eds.),
Ancient Textiles. Production, Crafts and Society, 7-12, Oxford, Oxbow Books (INST ARCH KJ GIL – 1
copy)
Forbes, R.J. (1956) Studies in Ancient Technology. Vol. IV. Brill, Leiden. (INST ARCH K FOR)
An old but in some ways still unsurpassed encyclopaedia – sections on textiles and dyes.
Gleba, M. and Mannering, U., eds. (2012) Textiles and Textile Production in Europe from Prehistory to
AD 500. Oxford, Oxbow Books. (INST ARCH KJ GLE)
Introductory chapter provide a quick overview of the subject, while other chapters deal with
specific regions. The most recent and up-to-date overview on much of the European material.
Gleba, M., Munkholt, C., and Nosch, M.-L., eds. (2008) Dressing the Past. Ancient Textiles Series 3,
Oxbow Books (INST ARCH KJ GLE)
A collection of more general essays demonstrating a variety of approaches and
methodologies.
Jenkins D., ed. (2003) The Cambridge History of Western Textiles, Vol. I. Cambridge, Cambridge
University Press. (INST ARCH KJ JEN)
A good summary of textile development from prehistory through historic periods – useful
starting point.
Moor, A. de, and Verhecken-Lammens, C. (2008) 3500 years of textile art: the collection in
HeadquARTers. Tielt: Lannoo. (INST ARCH KJ Qto MOO)
Textile history based on one collection.
*Wild, J. P. (1988) Textiles in archaeology. (INST ARCH KJ WIL – 2 copies)
This is a quick overview and an introduction to the subject.
Periodicals
North European Symposium for Archaeological Textiles (NESAT)
NESAT is the major triennial international forum for experts in archaeological textiles taking
place since 1981. The acts contain many seminal articles but also demonstrate the
development of the field over the last 30 years.
Contents of volumes 1-6 can be found at: http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/nesatlist.html
NESAT 2 - INST ARCH KJ Qto TEX
NESAT 3 - INST ARCH KJ TEX (2 copies)
NESAT 4 - INST ARCH KJ TEX
NESAT 5 - INST ARCH KJ TEX
NESAT 6 - INST ARCH KJ Qto BEN
NESAT 7 - INST ARCH KJ PRI
NESAT 8 - INST ARCH KJ Qto MAI
NESAT 9 - INST ARCH KJ Qto RAS
10
NESAT 10 - INST ARCH KJ Qto STR
Archaeological Textiles Newsletter/Archaeological Textiles Review (INST ARCH Pers - No. 10-41,
1990-2005; No. 43-, 2006-)
Contents and some issues can be found at: www.atnfriends.com
The most specialised periodical on archaeological textiles containing many primary publications
on finds and techniques.
Dyes in History and Archaeology
Proceedings of yearly meetings on dyes in archeological and historical textiles. Many very technical
articles and participants are predominantly chemists. (INST ARCH JDJ DYE; some available online)
Textile History (HISTORY Pers - Vol. 1-40, 1968-2009; Vol. 41, 2010 suppl.; issues from 2003 are
also available electronically)
While generally dealing with later material, this periodical has some articles on archaeological
material.
Textile, the Journal of Cloth and Culture (Main ART pers)
Cultural history and art practitioner basis, but includes some archaeology articles and book
reviews.
Conference proceedings with numerous important articles
Alfaro, C., Wild, J. P. and Costa, B., eds. (2004) Purpureae vestes: Actas del I Symposium
Internacional sobre Textiles y Tintes del Mediterráneo en época romana (Ibiza, 8 al 10 de noviembre,
2002). València, Universitat de València. (INST ARCH KJ Qto ALF)
Alfaro, C. and Karali, L. (eds.) (2008) Purpureae Vestes II, Vestidos, Textiles y Tintes: Estudios sober
la produccion de bienes de consumo en la antiguidad. Valencia. (INST ARCH KJ Qto ALF)
Alfaro, C. Brun, J.-P. Borgard Ph. and Pierobon Benoit R. (eds) (2011) Purpureae Vestes III. Tissus et
teintures dans la cité antique. Actas delIII Symposium Internacional sobre Textiles y Tintes del
Mediterráneo en el mundo antiguo (Nápoles,13 al 15 noviembre, 2008). València, Universitat de
València. (INST ARCH KJ Qto ALF)
Cardon, D. and Feugère, M. (2000) Archéologie des textiles des origines au Ve siècle : actes du
colloque de Latte, octobre 1999. Montpelier. (INST ARCH KJ Qto CAR)
Gillis, C. and Nosch, M.-L. B., eds. (2007a) Ancient Textiles – Production, Crafts and Society.
Proceedings of the First International Conference on Ancient Textiles, held in Lund, Sweden and
Copenhagen, Denmark, March 19-23, 2003. Oxford, Oxbow Books. (INST ARCH KJ GIL)
Websites of current important projects
Centre for Textile Research Experimental at the University of Copenhagen (CTR)
CTR has been at the forefront of archaeological textile research for the last few years and
besides numerous books and articles has published several important experimental reports on
their website:
http://ctr.hum.ku.dk/research/tools/
Dress and Identity project
The main objectives of the DressID project were to provide a position in cultural history for
clothing and textiles in antiquity, and to demonstrate how clothing is a key to identity studies.
The website has a list of some of the most recent publications on the topic.
http://www.dressid.eu
Creativity and Craft Production in Middle and Late Bronze Age Europe (CinBA)
A part of the project deals with textiles. The website has a list of some of the most recent
publications on the topic.
http://cinba.net
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Tracing Networks: Craft Traditions in the Ancient Mediterranean and Beyond
Another current project part of which deals with textile production.
http://tracingnetworks.ac.uk
V&A textile collections
V&A has a fantastic textile collection. While most of it dates to historic periods, the website
has many useful resources including for example a bibliography on Coptic textiles. There is
also a lot of good information on textile conservation.
http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/textiles/index.html
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21st Jan.
2: PRESERVATION AND CONSERVATION
Lecture: Like other organic materials, textiles are relatively rare finds in
archaeological contexts and their preservation requires special conditions: dry or
waterlogged environment, contact with metals, freezing, exposure to fire etc. The
different environments condition the type and degree of textile preservation while the
different types of textile preservation determine the information that can be extracted
from textiles preserved in different ways. Preservation also determines the
conservation approach. We will look at the basics of textile conservation. (MG)
Practical session: The practical session will be dedicated to looking at Anglo-Saxon
textiles preserved through mineralisation. (Sue Harrington)
General reading
*Chen, H. L., Jakes, K. A., and Foreman, D. W. (1998) Preservation of Archaeological Textiles
Through Fibre Mineralization. Journal of Archaeological Science 25, 1015–1021. (Available
electronically)
English Heritage (2012) Waterlogged Organic Artefacts. Guidelines on their Recovery, Analysis and
Conservation.
http://www.english-heritage.org.uk/publications/waterlogged-organic-artefacts/woa-guidelines.pdf
A quick and useful guide to the conservation of waterlogged finds, including textiles and
basketry.
Jakes, K. A. and Sibley, L. R. (1984) An Examination of the Phenomenon of Textile Fabric
Pseudomorphism. In J. B. Lambert (ed.), Archaeological Chemistry III, 403-424. Washington D. C..
(INST ARCH JD LAM)
Janaway, R., and Wyeth, P. eds. (2005) Scientific Analysis of Ancient & Historic Textiles. Informing
Preservation, Display and Interpretation. Postprints, AHRB Research Centre for Textile Conservation
& Textile Studies, Second Annual Conference. Textile Conservation Centre, 13-15 July 2004. London:
Archetype Press (INST ARCH KJ Qto JAN)
Landi, S. (1998) Textile Conservator's Manual (Conservation and Museology). (INST ARCH KJ LAN –
3 copies)
*Lister, A. (1996) Guidelines for the conservation of textiles. London: English Heritage. (INST ARCH
KJ Qto LIS – 3 copies).
*Nosch, M.-L.B., and Gillis, C., eds. (2007) First Aid for the Excavation of Archaeological Textiles,
Ancient Textiles Series 2, Oxford, Oxbow Books (INST ARCH KJ GIL)
This is a quick and essential guide to dealing with archeological textiles when encountered in
the field.
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*Peacock, E. E. (2008) Study of Archaeological Textiles Intimately Associated with Human Remains –
Where is the Ethical Dilemma? In NESAT 9, 12-16 (INST ARCH KJ Qto RAS)
Ringgaard, M. and Bruselius Scharff, A. (2010) The Impact of Dyes and Natural Pigmentation of Wool
on the Preservation of Archaeological Textiles. In NESAT X, 221-224. (INST ARCH KJ Qto STR)
Tarleton, K. S. and Ordoñes, M. T. (1995) Stabilization Methods for Textiles from Wet Sites. Journal of
Field Archaeology 22(1), 81-95
*Tímar-Balázsy, A. and Eastop, A. (1998) Chemical principles of textile conservation (INST ARCH KJ
TIM – 2 copies)
This is presently one of the most widely used textile conservation textbooks – flip through to
familiarise yourself with the topics covered.
Travis, K., (2008) ‘A history of conservation: organic materials from the Neolithic lake-dwelling sites of
Zürich 1850–2005’, in NESAT IX, Archäologische Textilfunde – Archaeological Textiles, ed. A. RastEicher and R. Windler, NESAT, Ennenda 17–24. (INST ARCH KJ Qto RAS)
*Unruh, J. (2007) Ancient Textile Evidence in Soil Structures at the Agora Excavations in Athens,
Greece. In C. Gillis and M. L. Nosch (eds.), Ancient Textiles. Production, Crafts and Society, 167-172,
Oxford, Oxbow Books (INST ARCH KJ GIL)
Online resources
http://www.textileconservationcentre.co.uk/
http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/textiles/resources/conservation_journal_articles_textiles_collections/i
ndex.html
14
28th Jan.
3: RAW MATERIAL SOURCES, PROPERTIES AND ANALYSIS
Lecture: The generic term ‘textile’ covers a wide variety of raw materials which
have in common only their ultimate product. Resources for making textiles include
plant and animal products used for fibres and dyes, as well as those used in various
stages of textile making, such as washing or fulling. In this way, agriculture (flax and
cotton cultivation), animal husbandry (sheep keeping) and exploitation of
environmental resources (nettle, tree bast, wild dye plants, minerals) are closely
linked to textile production. In this session we will look at the principal textile raw
materials focusing in particular on sheep wool; plant fibres (flax, hemp, tree bast,
esparto, cotton); silk; metal thread; dyes and mordants. We will also consider how
physical and chemical properties of the fibres greatly influence the final product.
(MG)
Practical Session: The practical session will be devoted to handling various natural
textile fibres and learning their properties, as well as learning about the basics of
microscopic fibre identification. (Susanna Harris and MG)
General reading
*Barber, E. J. W. (1991) Prehistoric Textiles. The Development of Cloth in the Neolithic
and Bronze Ages, 9-38. Princeton, Princeton University Press. (INST ARCH KJ BAR – 3 copies)
*Harris, S. (2010) Smooth and Cool, or Warm and Soft: Investigating the Properties of Cloth in
Prehistory. In E. Andersson Strand, M. Gleba, U. Mannering, C. Munkholt, M. Ringgaard (eds.), North
European Symposium for Archaeological Textiles X, Oxford. (INST ARCH KJ Qto STR)
*Rast-Eicher, A., 2005. Bast before wool: the first textiles. In P. Bichler, K. Grömer, R. Hofmann-De
Keijzer, A. Kern and H. Reschreiter (eds), Hallstatt Textiles: Technical Analysis, Scientific Investigation
and Experiment on Iron Age Textiles: 117-131. Oxford: British Archaeological Reports (International
Series 1351).
Wool
Frayn, J. M. (1984) Sheep-Rearing and the Wool Trade in Italy during the Roman Period. Liverpool, F.
Cairns. (INST ARCH DAF 100 FRA)
Ryder, M. L. (1981) Fleece changes in sheep. In: Jones, M., Dimbleby, G. (eds.), The environment of
man: the Iron age to the Saxon period. BAR Brit. 88. Oxford, BAR. (INST ARCH DAA Series Qto BRI
87, STORES)
Ryder, M. (1983) Sheep and Man. (INST ARCH HA RYD – 2 copies; stores – 1 copy)
15
Plant fibres
Allaby, R. G., Peterson, G. W., Merriwether, D. A., Fu, Y.-B. (2005) Evidence for the domestication
history of flax (Linum usitatissimum L.) from genetic diversity of the /sad2/ locus. Theoretical and
Applied Genetics 112/1, 58-65. (Available online)
Godwin, H. (1967) The ancient cultivation of hemp. Antiquity 41, 42f. (IoA PERS, Available online)
Hald, M. (1942) The nettle as a culture plant. Folk-liv (Stockholm). (MAIN, Stores)
Hurcombe, L. M. (2000). Plants as the raw materials for crafts. In A. Fairbairn (ed.), Plants in Neolithic
Britain and Beyond. Oxford: Oxbow. (INST ARCH DAA 140 FAI)
Körber-Grohne, U. (1990) The determination of fibre plants in textiles, cordage and wickerwork. In J.
M. Renfrew (ed.), New Light on Early Farming. Recent Developments in Palaeoethnobotany, 93-104.
Edinburgh. (INST ARCH BB 5 REN – 3 copies)
Silk
Bender Jørgensen, L. (2013) The question of prehistoric silk in Europe. Antiquity 87, 336, 581-588.
(Available online)
Good, I. (1995) On the Question of Silk in Pre-Han Eurasia. Antiquity 69, 945-958. (Available online)
Good, I., Kenoyer, J. M. and Meadow, R. H. (2009) New Evidence for Early Silk in the Indus
Civilization. Archaeometry 51: 457–466. (Available online)
Panagiotakopolou, E., Buckland, P., Day, M. Doumasa, C., Sarpaki, A., Skidmore, P. 1997. A
lepidopterous cocoon: evidence for silk in the Bronze Age from Thera and Aegean Bronze Age.
Antiquity 71, 4 20-29. (IoA PERS, Available online)
Sea silk
Maeder, F. (2008) Sea-silk in Aquincum: first production proof in antiquity. In C. Alfaro and L. Karali
(ed.), Purpureae Vestes II, Vestidos, Textiles y Tintes: Estudios sober la produccion de bienes de
consumo en la antiguidad, 109, Valencia, University of Valencia (INST ARCH KJ Qto ALF)
Cotton
Betts, A., van der Borg, K. de Jong, A., Mc Clintock, C., van Strydonc, M. (1997) Early cotton in north
Arabia. Journal of Archaeological Science 21, 489-99. (Available online)
Griffith F. Ll. and G. M. Crowfoot (1934) On the Early Use of Cotton in the Nile Valley.
The Journal of Egyptian Archaeology, Vol. 20, No.1-2, 5-12 (AVAILABLE ONLINE)
Moulherat, Ch., Tengberg, M., Haquet, J.-F., Mille, B. (2002) First evidence of cotton at Neolithic
Mehrgarh, Pakistan: Analysis of mineralized fibres from a copper bead. Journal of Archaeological
Science 29, 1393–1401. (Available online)
Wild, J.P., Wild, F.C., and Clapham, A.J. (2008) Roman cotton revisited. In C. Alfaro and L. Karali
(ed.), Purpureae Vestes II, Vestidos, Textiles y Tintes: Estudios sober la produccion de bienes de
consumo en la antiguidad, 143-148, Valencia, University of Valencia (INST ARCH KJ Qto ALF)
http://www.achemenet.com/ressources/souspresse/annonces/Cotton%20from%20Elam.pdf
Metal thread
M. Gleba (2008) Auratae vestes: Gold textiles in the ancient Mediterranean. In C. Alfaro and L. Karali
(ed.), Purpureae Vestes II, Vestidos, Textiles y Tintes: Estudios sober la produccion de bienes de
consumo en la antiguidad, 63-80, Valencia, University of Valencia (INST ARCH KJ Qto ALF)
16
Dyes
*Cardon, D. (2007) Natural Dyes - Sources, Tradition, Technology, Science, Archetype Publications,
London (INST ARCH JDJ CAR)
This is the best source book on natural dyes published at the moment – glance through to get an
appreciation of the variety and complexity of natural dyes (it is beautifully illustrated, too).
Cardon, D. (2009) Colours in Civilizations of the World and Natural Colorants: History under Tension.
In T. Bechtold and R, Mussak (eds), Handbook of Natural colorants, 21-26. Chichester. (available
electronically through UCL library catalogue)
Melo, M. J. (2009) History of Natural Dyes in the Ancient Mediterranean World. In T. Bechtold and R,
Mussak (eds), Handbook of Natural colorants, 3-20. Chichester. (available electronically through UCL
library catalogue)
*Verhecken, A. (2008) Natural Dyes. In A. De Moor (ed.), 3500 years of textile art, 87-95. Tielt. (INST
ARCH KJ Qto MOO)
Fibre identification and analysis
Appleyard, J.M. (1978) Guide to the Identification of Animal Fibres. Leeds. (INST ARCH KJ APP)
Catling, D., and Grayson, J. (2004) Identification of Vegetable Fibres. London. (INST ARCH KH CAT)
Christiansen, C.A. (2004) A reanalysis of fleece evolution studies. In J. Maik (ed.), Priceless Invention
of Humanity – Textiles. NESAT VIII, 11–18. Lodz. (INST ARCH KJ Qto MAI)
Gale, R. and Cutler, D. (2000) Plants in archaeology: identification manual of vegetative plant
materials used in Europe and the southern Mediterranean to c. 1500. Westbury and Royal Botanic
Gardens, Kew, Otley. (INST ARCH BB 51 Qto GAL)
Gleba, M. (2012) From textiles to sheep: investigating wool fibre development in pre-Roman Italy
using scanning electron microscopy (SEM). Journal of Archaeological Science 39, 3643-3661.
(Available online)
Greaves, P.H. and Saville, B.P. (1995) Microscopy of Textile Fibres. Oxford (INST ARCH KJ GRE)
Margariti, C., Eastop, D. Moraitou, G. and Wyeth, P. 2009. Potential and limitations on the application
of FTIR microscopy to the analysis and characterisation of textiles excavated in Greece. In: North
European Symposium for Archaeological Textiles X. Copenhagen (INST ARCH KJ Qto STR)
Müller, M., Murphy, B., Burghammer, M., Snigireva, I., Riekel, C., Gunnerweg, J., and Pantos, E.
(2006) Identification of single archaeological textile fibres from the Cave of Letters using synchrotron
radiation microbeam diffraction and microfluorescence. Applied Physics A 83:183–188. (Available
online)
Rast-Eicher, A. and Bender Jørgensen, L. (2013) Sheep wool in Bronze Age and Iron Age Europe.
Journal of Archaeological Science 40, 1224-1241. (Available online)
Walton, P., 1988. Dyes and wools in Iron Age Textiles from Norway and Denmark. Journal of Danish
Archaeology 7, 144–158. (INST ARCH Pers)
On-Line Resources
http://www.naturalfibres2009.org/en/fibres/
From the 2009 International Year of Natural Fibres – good basic overview of most natural
textile fibres used today
17
4th Feb.
4: TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY
Lecture: Textile production processes include numerous stages each associated
with particular tools. In this session we will explore the chaîne opératoire of textile
manufacture from fibre procurement (agriculture, animal husbandry), to fibre
preparation, to yarn and textile production, including the techniques of non-woven
textiles (felt, sprang etc.), embroidery, dyeing and other finishing processes. Specific
attention will be devoted to the various textile tools which on most archaeological
sites constitute the principal indicator of textile production. (MG)
Practical Session: The practical session will involve recording and analysis of textile
tools. (Joanne Cutler)
General reading
Spinning, splicing and other methods of yarn preparation
*Barber, E. J. W. (1991) Prehistoric Textiles. The Development of Cloth in the Neolithic
and Bronze Ages, 39-58. Princeton, Princeton University Press. (INST ARCH KJ BAR – 3 copies)
Chmielewski, T. and Gardynski, L. (2010) New frames of archaeometrical description of spindle
whorls: a case study of the late eneolithic spindle whorls from the 1C site in Grödek, District of
Hrubieszόw, Poland. Archaeometry 52 (5) 869-881. (Available online)
Granger-Taylor, H. (1998) Evidence for linen yarn preparation in Ancient Egypt – the hanks of fibre
strips and the balls of prepared rove from Lahun in the Petrie Museum of Egyptian Archaeology,
University College London (UC 7421, 7509 and 7510). In S. Quirke (ed.), Lahun Studies, 103-107.
Surrey. (EGYPTOLOGY QUARTOS E 100 QUI)
Keith, K. (1998) Spindle Whorls, Gender, and Ethnicity at Late Chalcolithic Hacinebi Tepe. Journal of
Field Archaeology 25(4) (Winter 1998), 497-515. (Available online)
*Kemp, B. J. and Vogelsang-Eastwood, G. (2001) The Ancient Textile Industry at Amarna, 57-88.
London. (EGYPTOLOGY QUARTOS E 42 [68])
Tiedemann, E. J., Jakes, K. A. (2006) An exploration of prehistoric spinning technology: spinning
efficiency and technology transition. Archaeometry 48/2, 293-307. (Available online)
Verhecken, A. (2010) The moment of inertia: a parameter for functional classification of worldwide
spindle whorls from all periods. In E. Andersson Strand, M. Gleba, U. Mannering, C. Munkholt, M.
Ringgaard (eds.), North European Symposium for Archaeological Textiles X, 257-270, Oxford, Oxbow
Books (INST ARCH KJ Qto STR)
Weaving and looms
*Barber, E. J. W. (1991) Prehistoric Textiles. The Development of Cloth in the Neolithic and Bronze
Ages, 79-124. Princeton, Princeton University Press. (INST ARCH KJ BAR – 3 copies)
Broudy, E. (1979) The book of looms. A history of the handloom from ancient times to the present.
Hanover, University of New England Press. (INST ARCH KJ BRO)
Ciszuk, M. (2004) Taqueté and damask from Mons Claudianus: a discussion of Roman looms for
patterned textiles. In C. Alfaro, J.P. Wild, B. Costa (eds.), Purpureae vestes: Actas del I Symposium
Internacional sobre Textiles y Tintes del Mediterráneo en época romana (Ibiza, 8 al 10 de noviembre,
2002), 107-114, València: Universitat de València (INST ARCH KJ Qto ALF)
Ciszuk, M., and Hammarlund, L. (2008) Roman looms – a study of craftsmanship and technology in
teh Mons Claudianus Project. In C. Alfaro and L. Karali (ed.), Purpureae Vestes II, Vestidos, Textiles y
18
Tintes: Estudios sober la produccion de bienes de consumo en la antiguidad, 119-134, Valencia,
University of Valencia (INST ARCH KJ Qto ALF)
*Hoffmann, M. (1964/1974) The Warp-Weighted Loom. Oslo. (INST ARCH KJ HOF – 2 copies, stores
– 2 copies, main – 1 copy)
*Mårtensson, L., Nosch, M.-L., and Andersson Strand, E. (2009) Shape of Things: Understanding a
Loom Weight. Oxford Journal of Archaeology 28.4, (2009) 373-398.
Tablet Weaving
Collingwood, P. (1982) The techniques of tablet weaving. London. (INST ARCH KJ COL)
Hansen, E. H. (1990) Tablet weaving, history, techniques, colours, patterns. Højbjerg.
Sprang
Collingwood, P. (1974) The techniques of sprang, plaiting on stretched threads. New York: WatsonGuptill Publications. (INST ARCH KJ COL)
Jenkins, I., and D. Williams (1985) Sprang hair nets: their manufacture and use in Ancient Greece.
American Journal of Archaeology 89, 411-418. (INST ARCH PERS)
Dyeing
Alberti, M.E. (2007) Washing and Dyeing Installations of the Ancient Mediterranean: towards a
Definition from Roman Times back to Minoan Crete. In C. Gillis and M. L. Nosch (eds.), Ancient
Textiles. Production, Crafts and Society, 59-63, Oxford, Oxbow Books (INST ARCH KJ GIL)
*Barber, E. J. W. (1991) Prehistoric Textiles. The Development of Cloth in the Neolithic
and Bronze Ages, 223-246. Princeton, Princeton University Press. (INST ARCH KJ BAR – 3 copies)
Boesken, K. I., Haubrichs (2008) Tyrian purple dyeing: an experimental approach with fresh Murex
trunculus. In: Alfaro, C., Wild, J. P. B. Costa (eds.), Purpureae vestes. Actas del I Symposium
Internacional sobre Textiles y Tintes del Mediterráneo en Época Romana (Ibiza, 8.-10. noviembre
2002). València, Consell Insular d'Eivissa i Formentera, Universitat de València, 253-256. (INST
ARCH KJ Qto ALF)
Goodwin, J. (1982) A dyer's manual. Hessle: Ashman. (INST ARCH JDJ GOO)
Hughes, L. (2007) ‘Dyeing’ in Ancient Italy? In C. Gillis and M. L. Nosch (eds.), Ancient Textiles.
Production, Crafts and Society, 87-91, Oxford, Oxbow Books (INST ARCH KJ GIL)
Monaghan, M. (2000) Dyeing establishments in Classical and Hellenistic Greece. In D. Cardon and M.
Feugère (eds.), Archéologie des textiles des origines au Ve siecle, Actes du colloque de Lattes, oct.
1999, 167-172, Monographies Instrumentum 14, Éditions Monique Mergoul (INST ARCH KJ Qto CAR)
Wilson, A. (2004) Archaeological evidence for textile production and dyeing in Roman North Africa. In
C. Alfaro, J.P. Wild, B. Costa (eds.), Purpureae vestes: Actas del I Symposium Internacional sobre
Textiles y Tintes del Mediterráneo en época romana (Ibiza, 8 al 10 de noviembre, 2002), 155-164,
València: Universitat de València (INST ARCH KJ Qto ALF)
Textile production and tool studies
Alberti, M.E. (2008) Textile Industry indicators in Minoan work areas: problems of typology and
interpretation. In C. Alfaro and L. Karali (ed.), Purpureae Vestes II, Vestidos, Textiles y Tintes:
Estudios sober la produccion de bienes de consumo en la antiguidad, 25-36, Valencia, University of
Valencia (INST ARCH KJ Qto ALF)
Andersson, E. (2003) Tools for Textile Production from Birka and Hedeby. Birka Studies 8.
Excavations in the Black Earth 1990-1995. Stockholm, Birka Project for Riksantikvarieämbetet. (INST
ARCH DAM 10 AND)
19
Andersson, E.B. (2007) Textile Tools and Production during the Viking Age. In C. Gillis and M. L.
Nosch (eds.), Ancient Textiles. Production, Crafts and Society, 17-25, Oxford, Oxbow Books (INST
ARCH KJ GIL)
Centre for Textile Research reports on various Aegean and Near Eastern sites:
http://ctr.hum.ku.dk/research/tools/
*Cutler, J. (2012) Ariadne’s Thread: The Adoption of Cretan Weaving Technology in the Wider
Southern Aegean in the Mid-Second Millennium BC. In KOSMOS. Jewellery, Adornment and Textiles
in the Aegean Bronze Age (Aegaeum 31), edited by M.-L. Nosch and R. Laffineur. Liège: Université
de Liège. (INST ARCH DAE Qto NOS)
Gleba, M. (2008) Textile Production in Pre-Roman Italy. Oxford: Oxbow. (INST ARCH KJ GLE)
In particular chapters 4 and 5.
Gleba, M. and Cutler, J. (2012) Textile production in Bronze Age Miletos. In. R. Lafineur and M.-L.
Nosch, KOSMOS: Jewellery, Adornment and Textiles in the Aegean Bronze Age, Aegaeum 13, 113120, Liege/Austin. (INST ARCH DAE Qto NOS)
Harrington, S. (2008) Aspects of gender identity and craft production in the European migration
period: iron weaving beaters and associated textile making tools from England, Norway and
Alamannia. Oxford: Archaeopress. (INST ARCH DA Qto HAR)
Hurcombe, L. (2010) Nettle and Bast Fibre Textiles from Stone Tool Wear Traces? The Implications of
Wear Traces on Archaeological Late Mesolithic and Neolithic Micro-Denticulate Tools. In E.
Andersson Strand, M. Gleba, U. Mannering, C. Munkholt, M. Ringgaard (eds.), North European
Symposium for Archaeological Textiles X, 1-3, Oxford, Oxbow Books (INST ARCH KJ Qto STR)
Lafineur, R. and Nosch, M.-L. (2012) KOSMOS: Jewellery, Adornment and Textiles in the Aegean
Bronze Age, Aegaeum 13. Liege/Austin. (INST ARCH DAE Qto NOS)
A huge volume of articles dealing with primarily with textile tools from various Bronze Age
Aegean sites.
Peyronel, L. (2007) Spinning and Weaving at Tell Mardikh-Ebla (Syria): Some Observations on
Spindle-Whorls and Loom-weights from the Bronze and Iron Ages. In C. Gillis and M. L. Nosch (eds.),
Ancient Textiles. Production, Crafts and Society, 26-35, Oxford, Oxbow Books (INST ARCH KJ GIL)
Fulling
Flohr, M. (2013) The world of the Fullo : work, economy, and society in Roman Italy. Oxford : Oxford
University Press, (INST ARCH KJ FLO)
20
11th Feb.
5: TEXTILE ANALYSIS: METHODS AND APPROACHES
Lecture: Textile analysis at its basic involves meticulous observation of various
morphological aspects of the textile, such as thread diameter, textile weave structure
and thread count, faults, irregularities etc. We will consider all these aspects and
compare and contrast the various classification systems used today (Emery vs.
Seiler-Baldinger). We will then practice analyzing a selection of textiles. The session
will also serve as an introduction to the numerous other kinds of methods and
approaches used in the investigation of archaeological textiles. (MG)
Practical Session: Textile analysis and recording. (MG)
General reading
Barber, E. J. W. (1991) Prehistoric Textiles. The Development of Cloth in the Neolithic
and Bronze Ages, 126-222. Princeton, Princeton University Press. (INST ARCH KJ BAR – 3 copies)
*Bender-Jorgensen, L. (2007) Archaeological Textiles between the Arts, Crafts and Science. In
NESAT 9, 8-11 (INST ARCH KJ Qto RAS)
Burnham, D. K. Warp and weft: a textile terminology. Toronto, Royal Ontario Museum. (INST ARCH
KJ BUR)
Collingwood, P., Cribbs, D. (1987) Textile and weaving structures. London, Batsford. (British Library)
*Emery, I. (1966) The Primary Structures of Fabrics. An Illustrated Classification. Washington D.C.,
The Textile Museum. (INST ARCH KJ Qto EME)
Flip through the book to get a feel for the way textiles are classified and approached here.
*Ræder Knudsen, L. (2007) ‘Translating’ Archaeological Textiles. In C. Gillis and M. L. Nosch (eds.),
Ancient Textiles. Production, Crafts and Society, 103-111, Oxford, Oxbow Books (INST ARCH KJ GIL)
*Seiler-Baldinger, A. (1994) Textiles, A Classification of Techniques. Bathurst. (INST ARCH KJ SEI –
2 copies)
This is a system of classification alternative to Emery’s. Look through the book to understand
the differences.
*Walton, P. R., Eastwood, G. (1988) A brief guide to the cataloguing of archaeological textiles.
London: Institute of Archaeology Publications (4th ed.). (INST ARCH KJ WAL)
Useful quick guide to textile recording
* Wild, J.P. (2007) Methodological Introduction. In C. Gillis and M. L. Nosch (eds.), Ancient Textiles.
Production, Crafts and Society, 1-6, Oxford, Oxbow Books (INST ARCH KJ GIL)
Visual appearance and physical properties
Hammarlund, L., and Vestergård Pedersen, K. (2007) Textiles appearance and visual expression Craft knowledge applied to archaeological textiles. In Rast-Eicher, A. and Windler, R. (eds.),
Archäologische Textilfunde – Archaeological Textiles. NESAT IX, Braunwald, 18.-21. Mai 2005
(Ennenda): 213-219. (INST ARCH KJ Qto RAS)
Hammarlund, L., Kirjavainen, H., Vestergård Pedersen, K. and Vedeler, M. (2008) Visual Textiles: A
Study of Appearance and Visual Impression in Archaeological Textiles. In Medieval Clothing and
Textiles 4 (Woodbridge). (INST ARCH)
Harris, S. (2008) Exploring the Materiality of Prehistoric Cloth-types. In P. Cunningham, J. Heeb and
R. Paardekooper (eds.), Experiencing Archaeology by Experiment: Proceedings of the Experimental
Archaeology Conference, Exeter 2007, 81-102, Oxford. (INST ARCH AH CUN)
21
Harris, S. (2010) Smooth and Cool, or Warm and Soft: Investigating the Properties of Cloth in
Prehistory. In E. Andersson Strand, M. Gleba, U. Mannering, C. Munkholt, M. Ringgaard (eds.), North
European Symposium for Archaeological Textiles X, Oxford. (INST ARCH KJ Qto STR)
Harris, S. (2014) Sensible dress: experiments with the sight, sound, touch and smell of Late Ertebølle,
Mesolithic cloth types. Cambridge Archaeological Journal 24 (1) (Available online)
Iconographic studies
Anawalt, P. (1997) Indian clothing before Cortés: Mesoamerican costumes from the codices. Norman:
University of Oklahoma Press. (INST ARCH DFA 600 Qto BER)
Also many other articles and books by the same author.
Bonfante, L. (1975/2003) Etruscan Dress. Baltimore, The Johns Hopkins University Press. (YATES A
75 BON – 1 copy; main – 1 copy)
Larsson Lovén, L. (2000) Representations of Textile Production in Gallo-Roman funerary art. In D.
Cardon and M. Feugère (eds.), Archéologie des textiles des origines au Ve siecle, Actes du colloque
de Lattes, oct. 1999, 235-240, Monographies Instrumentum 14, Éditions Monique Mergoul (INST
ARCH KJ Qto CAR)
Larsson Lovén, L. (2002) The imagery of textile making : gender and status in the funerary
iconography of textile manufacture in Roman Italy and Gaul. Göteborg. (YATES QUARTOS A 60
LOV)
Mannering, U. (2008) Iconography and Costume from the Late Iron Age in Scandinavia. In M. Gleba,
C. Munkholt, M.-L. Nosch (eds), Dressing the Past. Ancient Textiles Series 3, Oxbow Books, 59-67
(INST ARCH KJ GLE)
Young, A. (2000) Representations of Cloth Vendors and the Cloth Trade on Funerary Reliefs of
Roman Gaul and Italy. In D. Cardon and M. Feugère (eds.), Archéologie des textiles des origines au
Ve siecle, Actes du colloque de Lattes, oct. 1999, 215-234, Monographies Instrumentum 14, Éditions
Monique Mergoul (INST ARCH KJ Qto CAR)
Literary sources
Killen, J.T. (1964) The Wool Industry of Crete in the Late Bronze Age. The Annual of the British
School at Athens 59 (1964), 1-15 (Available online)
Killen, J.T. (2007) Cloth Production in Late Bronze Age Greece: the Documentary Evidence. In C.
Gillis and M. L. Nosch (eds.), Ancient Textiles. Production, Crafts and Society, 50-58, Oxford, Oxbow
Books (INST ARCH KJ GIL)
Michel, C. and Nosch, M .L. (2010) Textile terminologies in the ancient Near East and Mediterranean
from the third to the first millennia BC. Oxford (On order)
*Wild, J.-P. (2000) Textile Production and Trade in Roman Literature and Written Sources. In D.
Cardon and M. Feugère (eds.), Archéologie des textiles des origines au Ve siecle, Actes du colloque
de Lattes, oct. 1999, 209-214, Monographies Instrumentum 14, Éditions Monique Mergoul (INST
ARCH KJ Qto CAR)
Zawadzki, S. (2006). Garments of the God : studies on the textile industry and the Pantheon of Sippar
according to the texts from the Ebabbar archive. Fribourg. (ANCIENT HISTORY D 68 ZAW)
22
18th Feb.
NO SESSION (READING WEEK)
23
25th Feb.
6: TEXTILE ANALYSIS: METHODS AND APPROACHES
Lecture: The session will explore the various trans-disciplinary methods used in
textile studies. We will look at the most important aspects of the chosen
approach/method (what is it; how is it used to investigate textiles; what information
does it generate etc.).
Practical session: The session will deal with specifics of dye analysis. (Thibaut
Deviesse)
General reading
*Andersson, E. B., Frei, K. M., Gleba, M. Mannering, M.-L. B. Nosch and I. Skals, “Old textiles – new
approaches”, European Journal of Archaeology 13(2), 149-173 (Available online)
France, F. G. (2005) Scientific analysis in the identification of textile materials. In R. Janaway and P.
Wyeth (eds), Scientific Analysis of Ancient and Historic Textiles: Informing Preservation, Display and
Interpretation. London 3-11. (INST ARCH KJ Qto JAN)
*Good, I. (2001) Archaeological Textiles: A Review of Current Research. Annual Review of
Anthropology, Vol. 30 (2001), pp. 209-226 (Available online)
Microscopy
Bischoff, J.J. and Murray A. (2005) Digital microscopy and applications of digital image analysis for the
study of textile fibres. In R. Janaway and P. Wyeth (eds), Scientific Analysis of Ancient and Historic
Textiles: Informing Preservation, Display and Interpretation. London, 95-101. (INST ARCH KJ Qto
JAN)
Fischer, A. 2010, "Current Examinations of Organic Remains using Variable Pressure Scanning
Electron Microscopy [VP-SEM]," in North European Symposium for Archaeological Textiles X, vol. 5
E. Andersson Strand et al., eds., Oxbow, Oxford and Oakville, pp. 57-62. (INST ARCH KJ Qto STR)
Ryder, M. and Gabra-Sanders, T. (1985) The Application of Microscopy to Textile History. Textile
History 16(2), 123-140. (Available online)
Ryder, M. and Gabra-Sanders, T. (1987) A microscopic study of remains of textiles made from plant
fibres. Oxford Journal of Archaeology 6 (1), 91-108. (Available online)
Also look at the bibliography for session 3 on fibre identification.
Spectroscopy
Garside, P., and Wyeth, P. (2000) Characterisation of plant fibres by infra-red spectroscopy. Polymer
Preprints 41(2), 1792-1793. (Available online)
Garside, P., and Wyeth, P. (2003) Identification of Cellulosic Fibres by FTIR Spectroscopy: Thread
and Single Fibre Analysis by Attenuated Total Reflectance. Studies in Conservation 48(4), 269-275.
(Available online)
Garside, P., and Wyeth, P. (2006) Identification of Cellulosic Fibres by FTIR Spectroscopy:
differentiation of flax and hemp by polarized ATR FTIR. Studies in Conservation 51, 205-211.
(Available online)
Dye analysis
Cardon, D. (2007) Natural Dyes - sources, tradition, technology, science. Archetype Publications Ltd.,
London. (INST ARCH JDJ CAR)
24
Hofmann-de Keijzer, R., van Bommel, M. R., Joosten, I. (2005) Dyestuff and element analysis on
textiles from the prehistoric salt mine of Hallstatt. In P. Bichler, K. Grömer, R. Hofmann-de Keijzer, A.
Kern und H. Reschreiter (Eds.), Hallstatt Textiles - Technical Analysis, Scientific Investigation and
Experiment on Iron Age Textiles. British Arch. Reports, Int. Series 1351, Oxford, pp. 55-72. (INST
ARCH DABA Qto BIC)
James, M. A., Reifarth, N., Mukherjee, A.J., Crump, M.P., Gates, P.J., Sandor, P., Robertson, F.,
Pfälzner, P. and Evershed, R. P. (2009) High prestige Royal Purple dyed textiles from the Bronze Age
royal tomb at Qatna, Syria. Antiquity 83:322, 1109–1118. (Available online)
Nowik, W., Desrosiers, S., Surowiec, I., Trajanowicz, M. (2005) The analysis of dyestuffs from first- to
second-century textile artefacts found in the Martres-de-Veyre (France) excavations. Archaeometry
47, 835-848. (Available online)
Vanden Berghe, I., Gleba, M., Mannering, U., 2009. Towards the identification of dyestuffs in Early
Iron Age Scandinavian peat bog textiles. Journal of Archaeological Science 36, 1910–1921. (Available
online)
Walton, P. (1988) Dyes and Wools in Iron Age Textiles from Norway and Denmark. Journal of Danish
Archaeology 7, 144-158. (INST ARCH Pers)
Zhang, X., Good, I., Laursen, R.A. (2008) Characterization of dyestuffs in ancient textiles from
Xinjiang. Journal of Archaeological Science 45, issue 4, 1095-1103. (Available online)
Isotopic tracing
Benson, L.V., Hattori, E.M., Taylor, H.E., Poulson, S.R., and Jolie, E.A. (2006) Isotope sourcing of
prehistoric willow and tule textiles recovered from western great Basin rock shelters and caves – proof
of concept. Journal of Archaeological Science 33, 1588-1599. (Available online)
Frei, K., Frei, R., Mannering, U., Gleba, M., Nosch, M.-L., and Lyngstrøm, H. (2008) Provenance of
ancient textiles – a pilot study evaluating the Sr isotope system in wool. Archaeometry 51:2, 252-276.
(Available online)
Frei, K., Gleba, M., Skals, I., and Lyngstrøm, H. (2009) The Huldremose Iron Age textiles, Denmark:
an attempt to define their provenance applying the Strontium isotope system. Journal of
Archaeological Science 36, 1965-1971. (Available online)
Frei, K., Vanden Berghe, I., Frei, R., Mannering, and Lyngstrøm, H. (2008) Removal of natural organic
dyes from wool–implications for ancient textile provenance studies. Journal of Archaeological Science
37:9, 2136-2145. (Available online)
Hedges, R.E.M., Thompson, J.M.A. and Hull, B.D. (2005) Stable isotope variation in wool as a means
to establish Turkish carpet provenance. Rapid Commun. Mass Spectrom. 19 (22), 3187-91. (Available
online)
Von Carnap-Bornheim, C., M.L. Nosch, G. Grupe, A.M. Mekota and M.M. Schweissing (2007) Stable
strontium isotopic ratios from archaeological organic remains from the Thorsberg peat bog. Rapid
Communications in Mass Spectrometry 21(9): 1541-1545. (Available online)
Von Holstein, I. (2013) An Introduction to Carbon, Nitrogen and Hydrogen Stable Isotope
Provenancing for Archaeological Wool. In NESAT XI (on order)
Dating
Mannering, U., Heinemeier, I. Possnert, G., and Gleba, M. (2010) Dating textiles and skins from bog
14
finds by C-AMS. Journal of Archaeological Science 37, 261-268. (Available online)
25
Fanti, G., Baraldi, P., Basso, R. and Tinti, A. (2013) Non-destructive dating of ancient flax textiles by
means of vibrational spectroscopy. Vibrational Spectroscopy 67, 61-70. (Available online)
Pritchard, F. (2006) Clothing Culture: Dress in Egypt in the First Millennium AD. Manchester: The
Whitworth Art Gallery, University of Manchester. (EGYPTOLOGY QUARTOS M 20 WHI)
Van Der Plicht, J., W.A.B. Van Der Sanden, A.T. Aerts and H.J. Streurman (2004) Dating bog bodies
by means of 14C-AMS. Journal of Archaeological Science 31(4):471–491. (Available online)
Moini, M., Klauenberg, K., Ballard, M. (2011) Dating silk by capillary electrophoresis mass
spectrometry. Analytical Chemistry 83(19), 7577-81. (Available online)
Araki, N. and Moini, M. (2011) Age estimation of museum wool textiles from Ovis aries using
deamidation rates utilizing matrix-assisted laser desorption/ionization time-of-flight mass spectrometry.
Rapid Commun. Mass Spectrom. 25 (22), 3396-400. (Available online)
DNA
Brandt, L. Ø., Tranekjer, L. D., Mannering, M., Ringgaard, M., Frei, K. M., Willerslev, E., Gleba, M.,
Gilbert, M. T. P. (2011) Characterising the potential of sheep wool for ancient DNA analyses.
Archaeological and Anthropological Sciences 3 (2), 209-221. (Available online)
Dunbar, M., Murphy, M.S. and Murphy, T.M. (2009) DNA analysis of natural fiber rope, Journal of
Forensic Science 54 (01) 108–113. (Available online)
Gilbert, T.P.M., A. Wilson, M. Bunce, A. Hansen, E. Willerslev, B. Shapiro, T. Highan, M. Richards, T.
O’Connell and D. Tobin, (2004) Ancient mitochondrial DNA from hair. Current Biology 14(12), R463–
R464. (Available online)
26
4th Mar.
7: TEXTILE EXPERIMENTAL ARCHAEOLOGY
Lecture: Experimental archaeology has been used in textile research for a long time,
in particular because understanding the techniques used for textile production
requires much hands-on experience. Experimental archaeology is frequently used as
an analytical tool to understand structure and the technique of textiles; to document
the resource and time expenditure in textile production; to understand the function of
tools; to reconstruct the processes through which textiles are preserved in different
archaeological contexts. The lecture will present an overview of experimental textile
archaeology, focusing on some recent case studies.
General reading
*Andersson Strand, E. (2010) Experimental Textile Archaeology. In E. Andersson Strand, M. Gleba, U.
Mannering, C. Munkholt, M. Ringgaard (eds.), North European Symposium for Archaeological Textiles
X, 1-3, Oxford, Oxbow Books (INST ARCH KJ Qto STR)
A good initial overview of various uses of experimental archaeology in textile research.
Boesken Kanold, I., and Haubrichs, R. (2008) Tyrian purple dyeing: an experimental approach with
fresh Murex trunculus. In C. Alfaro and L. Karali (ed.), Purpureae Vestes II, Vestidos, Textiles y Tintes:
Estudios sober la produccion de bienes de consumo en la antiguidad, 253-256, Valencia, University of
Valencia (INST ARCH KJ Qto ALF)
Grömer, K. (2005) Efficiency and technique – experiments with original spindle whorls. In P. Bichler,
K. Grömer, R. Hofmann-de Keijzer, A. Kern and H. Reschreiter (eds), Hallstatt Textiles: Technical
Analysis, Scientific Investigation and Experiment on Iron Age Textiles, 107-116. BAR International
Series 1351. Oxford (INST ARCH DABA Qto BIC)
*Grömer, K. and Kern, D. (2010) Technical data and experiments on corded ware. Journal of
Archaeological Science 37:12, 3136-3145 (Available online)
Hopkins, H. (2013) Ancient Textiles, Modern Science. Oxbow Books (INST ARCH KJ HOP)
*Hurcombe, L. (2010) Nettle and Bast Fibre Textiles from Stone Tool Wear Traces? The Implications
of Wear Traces on Achaeological Late Mesolithic and Neolithic Micro-Denticulate Tools. In E.
Andersson Strand, M. Gleba, U. Mannering, C. Munkholt, M. Ringgaard (eds.), North European
Symposium for Archaeological Textiles X, 247-251, Oxford, Oxbow Books. (INST ARCH KJ Qto STR)
*Nørgaard, A (2008) A Weaver’s Voice: Making Reconstructions of Danish Iron Age Textiles. In M.
Gleba, C. Munkholt, M.-L. Nosch (eds), Dressing the Past. Ancient Textiles Series 3, Oxbow Books,
43-58 (INST ARCH KJ GLE)
*Peacock, E.E. (2001) The contribution of experimental archaeology to the research of ancient
textiles. In Walton Rogers, P., Bender Jorgensen, L., and Rast-Eicher, A. (eds.), The Roman Textile
Industry and its Influence. A Birthday tribute to John Peter Wild (Exeter): 181-192. (INST ARCH KJ
ROG)
Spantidaki, S. (2008) Preliminary results of the reconstruction on Theran textiles. In C. Alfaro and L.
Karali (ed.), Purpureae Vestes II, Vestidos, Textiles y Tintes: Estudios sober la produccion de bienes
de consumo en la antiguidad, 43-48, Valencia, University of Valencia (INST ARCH KJ Qto ALF)
On-line Resources
Experimental reports of Tools and Textiles – Texts and Contexts research program:
http://ctr.hum.ku.dk/tools/
Biennial European Textile Forum websites has information on various experiments as well:
http://www.textilforum.org/
27
11th March
8: SOCIAL, GENDER AND ECONOMIC ASPECTS OF TEXTILES
Lecture: This session will focus on economic, social, gender and anthropological
aspects of textiles and textile production, including fashion and style. Each of these
aspects requires a lecture on its own but the extensive bibliography below should
illustrate the variety of issues that are discussed under these topics. (MG)
Economy and exchange
Adams, N.K. (2007) Political Affinities and Economic Fluctuations: the Evidence from Textiles. In C.
Gillis and M. L. Nosch (eds.), Ancient Textiles. Production, Crafts and Society, 201-207, Oxford,
Oxbow Books (INST ARCH KJ GIL)
Barber, E. J. W. (1997) Minoan women and the challenges of weaving for home, trade and shrine. In
R. Laffineur and P. P. Betancourt (eds.), Techne: craftsmen, craftswomen and craftsmanship in the
Aegean Bronze Age : proceedings of the 6th International Aegean Conference/6e Rencontre égéenne
internationale Philadelphia, Temple University, 18-21 April 1996, 16. edn, Université de Liège, Liège.
(ISSUE DESK IOA LAF)
Clark, J. G. D. (1952) Prehistoric Europe: The Economic Basis. London. (INST ARCH DA 100 CLA; 2
copies in STORES)
Classic text – see the chapter on textiles.
Gleba, M. and Pásztókai-Szeőke, J., eds. (2013) Making Textiles in pre-Roman and Roman Times:
People, Places, Identities, Ancient Textiles Series Vol. 13, Oxbow Books (in cataloguing)
Loftus, A. (2000) A Textile Factory in Third Century B.C. Memphis: Labor, Capital and Private
Enterprise in the Zenon Archive. In D. Cardon and M. Feugère (eds.), Archéologie des textiles des
origines au Ve siecle, Actes du colloque de Lattes, oct. 1999, 173-186, Monographies Instrumentum
14, Éditions Monique Mergoul (INST ARCH KJ Qto CAR)
*McCorriston, J. (1997) The Fibre Revolution: Textile Extensification, Alientation, and Social
Stratification in Ancient Mesopotamia. Current Anthropology 38(4), 517-549. (Available online)
Michel, C. and Veenhof, K. R. (2010) The textiles traded by the Assyrians in Anatolia (19th–18th
centuries BC). In C. Michel and M.L. Nosch (eds), Textile Terminologies in the Ancient Near East and
Mediterranean from the Third to the First Millennnia BC. Oxford: Oxbow, pp. 210-71. (INST ARCH KJ
MIC)
Militello, P. (2007) Textile Industry and Minoan Palaces. In C. Gillis and M.-L. B. Nosch (eds.), Ancient
textiles: production, craft and society. Proceedings of the First International Conference on Ancient
Textiles, held at Lund, Sweden, and Copenhagen, Denmark, on March 19-23, 2003, Oxbow Books,
Oxford, pp. 36-45.
Sherratt, A. (1981) Plough and pastoralism: aspects of the secondary products revolution. In I.
Hodder, G. Isaac, and N. Hammon (eds.), Patterns of the Past, Cambridge University Press,
Cambridge, pp. 261-305.
Sherratt, A. (1983) The Secondary Exploitation of Animals in the Old World. World Archaeology 15(1),
90-104.
*Sherratt, A. (1997) The Secondary Exploitation of Animals in the Old World (1983, Revised). In
Economy and society in prehistoric Europe: changing perspectives, Princeton University Press,
Princeton, N.J., pp. 199-228. (INST ARCH DA 100 SHE – 5 copies)
28
Social aspects
*Barber, E.J.W. (2007) Weaving the Social Fabric. In C. Gillis and M. L. Nosch (eds.), Ancient
Textiles. Production, Crafts and Society, 173-178, Oxford, Oxbow Books (INST ARCH KJ GIL)
Harris, S. (2012) From the parochial to the universal; comparing cloth cultures in the Bronze Age.
European Journal of Archaeology. 15 (1) 2012, 61–97. (Available online)
Pétrequin, P. (1993) North Wind, South Wind: Neolithic technical choices in the Jura Mountains, 37002400 BC. In P. Lemonnier (ed.), Technological Choices: Transformation in Material Cultures since the
Neolithic, Routledge, London, New York, pp. 36-76. (INST ARCH BD LEM – 4 copies)
Interpretation of spatial distribution of tools including spindle whorls.
Gender
Barber, E. W. (1994) Women’s Work: The First 20,000 Years. Women, Cloth, and Society in Early
Times. New York, Norton. (INST ARCH KJ BAR – 3 copies)
Carr, K. (2000) Women’s Work: Spinning and Weaving in the Greek Home. In D. Cardon and M.
Feugère (eds.), Archéologie des textiles des origines au Ve siecle, Actes du colloque de Lattes, oct.
1999, 163-166, Monographies Instrumentum 14, Éditions Monique Mergoul (INST ARCH KJ Qto CAR)
Costin, C. L. 1996. Exploring the relationship between gender and craft in complex societies:
methodological and theoretical issues of gender attribution. In R. P. Wright (ed.), Gender
and Archaeology, 111–40. Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press. (INST ARCH BD WRI)
Cottica, D. (2007) Spinning in the Roman World: from Everyday Craft to Metaphor of Destiny. In C.
Gillis and M. L. Nosch (eds.), Ancient Textiles. Production, Crafts and Society, 220-228, Oxford,
Oxbow Books (INST ARCH KJ GIL)
Harrington, S. (2008) Aspects of gender identity and craft production in the European migration
period: iron weaving beaters and associated textile making tools from England, Norway and
Alamannia. Oxford. (INST ARCH DA Qto HAR)
Larsson Lovén, L. (2007) Wool work as a Gender Symbol in Ancient Rome. Roman Textiles and
Ancient Sources. In C. Gillis and M. L. Nosch (eds.), Ancient Textiles. Production, Crafts and Society,
229-236, Oxford, Oxbow Books (INST ARCH KJ GIL)
Dress, Style and Fashion
Cleland, L., Davies, G., and Llewellyn-Jones, L. (2007) Greek and Roman dress from A to Z.
Routledge, Abingdon. (YATES A 75 CLE)
Easy to browse despite being a reference book.
Gleba, M., C. Munkholt and M.-L. Nosch (eds.) (2008) Dressing the past: costume through 21
century eyes, Ancient Textile Series 3, Oxford, Oxbow Books. (INST ARCH KJ GLE)
st
Rehak, P. (1996) Aegean Breechcloths, Kilts, and the Keftiu Paintings. American Journal of
Archaeology 100(1), 35-51. (INST ARCH Pers)
*Sørensen, M.L.S., 1997. Reading dress: the construction of social categories and identities in
Bronze Age Europe. Journal of European Archaeology 5/1, 93–114. (INST ARCH Pers)
Wincott Heckett, E. (2007) Clothing Patterns as Constructs of the Human Mind: Establishment and
Continuity. In C. Gillis and M. L. Nosch (eds.), Ancient Textiles. Production, Crafts and Society, 208214, Oxford, Oxbow Books (INST ARCH KJ GIL)
Anthropology
Banerjee, M. and Miller, D. (2003) The Sari. Berg, Oxford, New York. (ANTHROPOLOGY RA 84 BAN
– 4 copies)
29
Multiple perspectives and approaches to one type of dress.
Eicher, J. B. and Roach-Higgins, M. (1993) Definition and Classification of Dress. In R. Barnes and J.
B. Eicher (eds.), Dress and Gender: Making and Meaning in Cultural Contexts, vol. 2. Berg
Providence, Oxford, pp. 8-28. (ANTHROPOLOGY E 120 BAR – 4 copies)
Browse other useful chapters.
Küchler, S. and Were, G. (2005) Pacific Pattern. Thames & Hudson Ltd, London. (ANTHROPOLOGY
QUARTOS SP 84 KUC – 3 copies)
Textiles as part of a bigger cultural picture.
MacKenzie, M. A. (1991) Androgynous objects: string bags and gender in central New Guinea
Harwood Academic Publishers, Chur. (ANTHROPOLOGY SQ 123 MAC – 3 copies)
Ethnography that shows importance of context.
Miller, D., ed. (2005) Clothing as Material Culture. Berg, London. (ANTHROPOLOGY C 9 KUC – 5
copies)
Browse chapters for different perspectives.
Picton, J. and Mack, J. (1989) African Textiles, 2 ed, British Museum Press, London. (INST ARCH KJ
Qto PIC)
Good introductory text.
Rovine, V. L. (2001) Bogolan, Shaping Culture through Cloth in Contemporary Mali. Smithsonian
Institution Press, Washington & London. (ANTHROPOLOGY QJ 383 ROV)
Ethnography with focus on changing contexts of one type of cloth.
*Schneider, J. (1987) The Anthropology of Cloth. Annual Review of Anthropology 16, 409-448.
(Available online)
Weiner, A. B. and Schneider, J. (1989) Cloth and Human Experience. Washington and London.
(Science: ANTHROPOLOGY E 100 WEI)
Wobst, H. M. (1977) 'Stylistic behaviour and information exchange'. In C. E. Cleland (ed.), For the
Director: Research Essays in Honor of James B. Griffin, 61 edn, vol. 61 Ann Arbor, Michigan, pp. 317342. (STORES – 2 copies)
Classic text on clothing and identity.
30
18th March
9: MUSEUM VISIT: V&A
We will visit the V&A Clothworkers' Centre for the Study and Conservation of Textiles
and Fashion at Blythe House. The V&A holds the national collection of Textiles and
Fashion, which spans a period of more than 5000 years, from Predynastic Egypt to
the present day. The collection is one of the world’s largest and the most wideranging. More than 75,000 individual objects or sets of objects are cared for jointly by
the Asian Department and the Furniture, Textiles and Fashion Department, from a
broad geographic area covering Europe, South, South East, East and Central Asia,
the Middle East, Africa and the Americas.
Location
The Clothworkers' Centre for the Study and Conservation of Textiles and Fashion is located at:
Blythe House
23 Blythe Road
London
W14 0QX
Olympia station is a 5 minute walk from Blythe House.
Nearby underground stations within 10-15 minutes walk include:
• Barons Court (District and Piccadilly lines)
• West Kensington (District Line)
• Hammersmith (District, Piccadilly and Hammersmith and City lines)
• Shepherd’s Bush (Central and Hammersmith and City lines)
Arrival
IMPORTANT: When you arrive at Blythe House you will need to provide personal identification which
must include a photograph.
Acceptable forms of personal identification include:
31
•
•
•
•
•
•
Passport
National Identity card
Photo driving licence
Student identity card
Official accreditation card from a recognised place of work
Library ticket
Coats and bags
Coats, large bags, umbrellas and suitcases are not permitted in the Study Room. Please leave these
items in the lockers at Reception. Please don’t bring any food, drink, chewing gum, newspapers or
pens with you as these are harmful to the objects. Only pencils are allowed.
32
25th March 10: SEMINAR – TEXTILES IN PAST CULTURES
The seminar will explore the geographical and chronological differences in textiles
and textile production. Each student should choose one of the topics below (with
starting bibliographies provided) and prepare a poster summarising the most
important technical, social and economic aspects of textile production of the chosen
area. You will have 3 minutes to present your poster at the seminar. Detailed
information on poster preparation will be available on Moodle.
Good places to start:
Bender Jørgensen, L. (1992) North European Textiles until AD 1000. Aarhus, Aarhus
University Press. (INST ARCH KJ Qto BEN – 2 copies)
Particularly useful for northern and Central Europe.
Gleba, M. and U. Mannering (eds.) (2012) Textiles and Textile Production in Europe from Prehistory to
AD 500, Oxford, Oxbow Books. (INST ARCH KJ GLE)
Jenkins D., ed. (2003) The Cambridge History of Western Textiles, Vol. I. Cambridge, Cambridge
University Press. (INST ARCH KJ JEN)
Volume 1 goes through various geographical regions chronologically.
Topic 1: Palaeolithic and Mesolithic
Adovasio, J.M., O. Soffer and Klima, B. (1996) Upper Palaeolithic fibre technology: interlaced
woven finds from Pavlov I, Czech Republic, c. 26 000 years ago. Antiquity 70, 526-34. (Available
online)
The finds from Pavlov are amongst the earliest we presently have.
Bender Jørgensen, L. (1990) Stone Age textiles in Northern Europe. In Textiles in Northern
Archaeology. NESAT III: Textile Symposium in York, 6-9th May 1987, P. Walton & J.-P. Wild, eds.,
Archetype Publications, London, pp. 1-10. (INST ARCH KJ TEX)
Jolie, E.A., Lynch, T.F., Geib, P.R. and Adovasio, J.M. (2011) Cordage, Textiles, and the Late
Pleistocene Peopling of the Andes. Current Anthropology 52 (2), 285-296. (Available online)
Kvavadze, E., et al. 2009 30,000-Year-Old Wild Flax Fibers. Science 325, 1359. (Available online)
Make sure to also read: Bergfjord, C. et al., Comment on "30.000-Year-Old Wild Flax Fibers,
Science 328, 1634-b (2010) (Available online)
Kuzmin, Y. V., Keally, C. T., Jull, A. J. T., Burr, G. S. and Klyuev, N. A. (2012) The earliest surviving
textiles in East Asia from Chertovy Vorota Cave, Primorye Province, Russian Far East. Antiquity 86,
325-337. (Available online)
Nadel D., Danin, A., Werker, E., Schick, T., Kislev, M.E. and Stewart, K. (1994) 19,000 years-old
twisted fibers from Ohalo II. Current Anthropology 35(4), 451-458. (Available online)
Soffer, O. (2004) Recovering Perishable Technologies through Use Wear on Tools: Preliminary
Evidence for Upper Paleolithic Weaving and Net Making. Current Anthropology 45(3), 407-424.
(Available online)
Soffer, O., Adovasio, J. M., and Hyland, D. C. (2000) The "Venus" Figurines: Textiles, Basketry,
Gender, and Status in the Upper Paleolithic. Current Anthropology 41(4), 511-537 (Available online)
Important article arguing for textile early use on the basis of iconography. See other work by
Olga Soffer as well.
Topic 2: Near East: Neolithic
Adovasio, J. M. (1977) The Textile and Basketry Impressions from Jarmo. Paleorient 3 (1975-77),
223-230 (Available online)
33
Burnham, H.B. (1965) Çatal Hüyük: The Textiles and Twined Fabrics. Anatolian Studies 15, 169-174.
(Available online)
Crowfoot, E. (1960) Appendix A: Textiles, Matting and Basketry. In K. M. Kenyon, Excavations at
Jericho I: Tombs Excavated in 1962-54, 519-526. London. (INST ARCH DBE 10 KEN)
Crowfoot, E. (1965) Textiles, Matting and Basketry. In K. M. Kenyon, Excavations at Jericho I: Tombs.
London. (INST ARCH DBE 10 KEN)
Crowfoot, E. (1982) Textiles, Matting and Basketry. In K. M. Kenyon, Excavations at Jericho IV, 546550. London. (INST ARCH DBE 10 KEN)
Helbach, H. (1963) Textiles from Çatal Hüyük. Archaeology 16(1), 39-46. (Available online)
Ryder, M.L. (1965) Report of Textiles from Çatal Hüyük. Anatolian Studies 15, 175-176. (Available
online)
Schick, T. (1988) Nahal Hemar Cave: cordage, basketry and textiles. ‘Atiqot 18, 31-43. (Available
online)
Vogelsang-Eastwood, G. M. (1987) A Re-Examination of the Fibres from the Çatal Hüyük Textiles.
Oriental Carpet and Textile Studies, vol. 3, part 1, 15-19. London.
Topic 3: Near East: Bronze Age
Bier, C. (1995) Textile Arts in Ancient Western Asia. In J. Sasson and K. Rubinson (eds), Civilizations
of the Ancient Near East, 1567-1588. New York. (INST ARCH DBA 100 SAS)
Breniquet, C. (2010) Weaving in Mesopotamia during the Bronze Age: Archaeology, techniques,
iconography. In C. Michel and M.L. Nosch (eds.), Textile Terminologies in the Ancient Near East and
Mediterranean from the Third to the First Millennnia BC, Oxford, 52-67. (INST ARCH KJ MIC)
A good summary and starting point.
Crowfoot, E. (1995) Textiles from Recent Excavations at Nimrud. Iraq 57, 113-118 (Available online)
Dalley, S. (1977) Old Babylonian Trade in Textiles at Tell al Rimah. Iraq 39, 155-159. (Available
online)
de Schauensee, M. (2011) People and Crafts in Period IVB at Hasanlu, Iran. Philadelphia. (INST
ARCH DBG 10 SCH)
First publication of important collection of textiles from Iron Age Hasanlu
Lassen, A. W. (2010) Wool trade in Old Assyrian Anatolia. Jaarbericht "Ex Oriente Lux" 42, 159-179.
(Available online)
Michel, C. and Nosch, M .L. (2010) Textile terminologies in the ancient Near East and Mediterranean
from the third to the first millennia BC. Oxford (INST ARCH KJ MIC)
Michel, C. and Veenhof, K. R. (2010) The textiles traded by the Assyrians in Anatolia (19th–18th
centuries BC). In C. Michel and M.L. Nosch (eds), Textile Terminologies in the Ancient Near East and
Mediterranean from the Third to the First Millennnia BC. Oxford: Oxbow, pp. 210-71. (INST ARCH KJ
MIC)
Peyronel, L. (2007) Spinning and Weaving at Tell Mardikh-Ebla (Syria): Some Observations on
Spindle-Whorls and Loom-weights from the Bronze and Iron Ages. In C. Gillis and M. L. Nosch (eds.),
Ancient Textiles. Production, Crafts and Society, 26-35, Oxford, Oxbow Books. (INST ARCH KJ GIL)
34
Topic 4: Near East: Iron Age
Albenda, P. (1984) Assyrian Carpets in Stone. The Journal of the Ancient Near East Society 10, 1-34.
(Available online)
Bellinger, L. (1962) Textiles from Gordion. Bulletin of the Needle and Bobbin Club, vol. 46, nos. 1-2, 534.
Böhmer, H., and Thompson, J. (1991) The Pazyryk Carpet: A Technical Discussion. Source: Notes in
the History of Art 10(4), 30-36. (Available online)
Burke, B. (2010) From Minos to Midas: Ancient Cloth Production in the Aegean and in Anatolia.
Oxford, Oxbow Books (INST ARCH KJ BUR)
See chapter on Gordion.
Dalley, S. (1991) Ancient Assyrian Textiles and the Origins of Carpet Design. Iran XXIX, 117-135.
(Available online)
Granger-Taylor, H. (1983) The Textile Fragments from PG16. In J. Curtis, Late Assyrian Bronze
Coffins. Anatolian Studies, Vol. 33, Special Number in Honour of the Seventy-Fifth Birthday of Dr.
Richard Barnett, 94-95 (Available online)
Kawami, T. Archaeological Evidence for Textiles in Pre-Islamic Iran. Iranian Studies 23:3-4, 1-12.
(Available online)
Michel, C. and Nosch, M .L. (2010) Textile terminologies in the ancient Near East and Mediterranean
from the third to the first millennia BC. Oxford (INST ARCH KJ MIC)
Topic 5: Near East: Sasanian and Sogdian
Sasanian and Sogdian textiles were famous throughout Eurasia in their lifetime but their study is
hampered by the problems of unprovenanced finds and emphasis on iconography.
Kawami, T. (1991) Archaeological Evidence for Textiles in Pre-Islamic Iran,” Iranian Studies 25/1-2, 718. (Available online)
Peck, E. H. (1969) The Representation of Costumes in the Reliefs of Taq-i-Bustan,”Artibus Asiae 31,
101-24. (Available online)
Schorta, R., ed. (2006) Central Asian Textiles and Their Contexts in the Early Middle Ages.
Riggisberg. (INST ARCH KJ Qto SCH)
Vogelsang-Eastwood, G. M. “Was there Greek or Roman influence on Sasanian women’s clothing?,”
in The Roman Textile Industry and its Influence, eds. P. Walton Rogers, L. Bender Jørgensen, A.
Rast-Eicher, Oxford, 2001, pp. 65-76. (INST ARCH KJ ROG)
Vogelsang-Eastwood, G. M. “Sasanian “Riding-coats”: The Iranian evidence,” in Riding Costume in
Egypt. Origin and Appearance, eds. C. Fluck, G. M. Vogelsang-Eastwood, Leiden, 2004, pp. 209-29.
(EGYPTOLOGY M 20 FLU)
Vogelsang-Eastwood, G. M. (2006) A Preliminary Survey of Iranian Archaeological Sites with
Textiles. In S. Schrenk (Ed.), Textiles in Situ. Their Find Spots in Egypt and Neighbouring Countries in
the First Millennium CE, 221-40. Riggisberg. (EGYPTOLOGY QUARTOS M 20 SCH)
Topic 6: Egypt: Pharaonic
Barber, E. J. W. (1982) New Kingdom Egyptian Textiles - Embroidery vs. Weaving. American Journal
of Archaeology 86, 442-445 (Available online)
Crowfoot, G. M. (1931) Methods of Hand Spinning in Egypt and the Sudan, F. King & Sons, Halifax
(EGYPTOLOGY QUARTO PAMPHLETS C – Stores)
35
Crowfoot, G. M. and de G. Davies N. (1941) The Tunic of Tut'ankhamūn. The Journal of Egyptian
Archaeology, Vol. 27 (Dec. 1941), pp. 113-130 (AVAILABLE ONLINE)
Hall, R. (1986) Egyptian textiles. Aylesbury. (EGYPTOLOGY M 20 HAL – 10 copies)
Kemp, B. J. and Vogelsang-Eastwood, G. (2001) The Ancient Textile Industry of Amarna. London.
(EGYPTOLOGY QUARTOS E 42 [68])
Thomas, A. P. (1987) Pillow Stuffings from Amarna? The Journal of Egyptian Archaeology 73, 211213 (Available online)
Vogelsang-Eastwood, G. (1992) The production of linen in pharaonic Egypt. Leiden. (EGYPTOLOGY
QUARTOS B 20 VOG)
Vogelsang-Eastwood, G. (2000) Textiles. In P. T. Nicholson and I. Shaw (eds.), Ancient Egyptian
materials and technology, 268-295. Cambridge. (EGYPTOLOGY QUARTOS S 5 NIC – 6 copies)
A good summary and starting point.
Petrie Museum digital project with numerous useful articles and images of the material:
http://www.digitalegypt.ucl.ac.uk/textil/linen.html
Topic 7: Egypt: Graeco-Roman and Coptic
The topic is complex and the bibliography is vast, primarily due to the problems of unprovenanced
finds and emphasis on iconography.
Baginski, A. and Tidhar, A. (1980) Textiles from Egypt: 4th-13th Centuries. Tel-Aviv: Tavait Press.
(EGYPTOLOGY M 20 BAG)
Carroll, D. L. (1989) Looms and Textiles of the Copts: First Millennium Egyptian Textiles in the Carl
Austin Rietz Collection of the California Academy of Sciences. California Academy of Sciences, San
Francisco. (INST ARCH KJ CAR)
Cardon, D., New textile finds from Dios and Xèron, two praesidia of the Eastern Desert of
Egypt, Archaeological Textiles Newsletter 52 (2011), 14-20.
Cardon, D., A. Bülow-Jacobsen, and H. Cuvigny, Recent textile finds from Dios and Xèron,
Archaeological Textiles Newsletter 50 (2010), 2-13.
De Moor, A. and Fluck C., eds. (2011) Dress accessories of the 1st millennium AD from Egypt. Tielt
(EGYPTOLOGY QUARTOS M 20 MOO)
Important recent work on dating and other aspects of Coptic textiles.
De Moor, A., Verhecken-Lammens, C. and Verhecken, A. (2008) 3500 years of textile art. The
collection in headquarters. Tielt. (INST ARCH KJ Qto MOO)
Rutschowscaya, M.-H. (1990) Coptic Fabrics. Paris: Adam Biro. (EGYPTOLOGY QUARTOS M 20
RUT)
Schrenk, S., ed. (2006) Textiles in Situ. Their Find Spots in Egypt and Neighbouring Countries in the
First Millennium CE. Riggisberg. (EGYPTOLOGY QUARTOS M 20 SCH)
Topic 8: Greece: Neolithic and Bronze Age
Alberti, M.E. (2007) Washing and Dyeing Installations of the Ancient Mediterranean: towards a
Definition from Roman Times back to Minoan Crete. In C. Gillis and M. L. Nosch (eds.), Ancient
Textiles. Production, Crafts and Society, 59-63, Oxford, Oxbow Books (INST ARCH KJ GIL)
36
Burke, B. (2010) From Minos to Midas: Ancient Cloth Production in the Aegean and in Anatolia.
Oxford, Oxbow Books (INST ARCH KJ BUR)
See chapters on Minoan and Mycenaean periods – a good summary of textile tool and written
evidence.
Killen, J. T. (1964) The Wool Industry of Crete in the Late Bronze Age. The Annual of the British
School at Athens 59 (1964), 1-15 (Available online)
Important classic article on textile industry as reconstructed from Linear B archives.
Killen, J. T. (2007) Cloth Production in Late Bronze Age Greece: the Documentary Evidence. In C.
Gillis and M. L. Nosch (eds.), Ancient Textiles. Production, Crafts and Society, 50-58, Oxford, Oxbow
Books (INST ARCH KJ GIL)
Lafineur, R. and Nosch, M.-L. (2012) KOSMOS: Jewellery, Adornment and Textiles in the Aegean
Bronze Age, Aegaeum 13. Liege/Austin. (INST ARCH DAE Qto NOS)
A huge volume of articles dealing with primarily with textile tools.
Michel, C. and Nosch, M .L. (2010) Textile terminologies in the ancient Near East and Mediterranean
from the third to the first millennia BC. Oxford (INST ARCH KJ MIC)
Militello, P. (2007) Textile Industry and Minoan Palaces. In C. Gillis and M.-L. B. Nosch (eds.), Ancient
textiles: production, craft and society. Proceedings of the First International Conference on Ancient
Textiles, held at Lund, Sweden, and Copenhagen, Denmark, on March 19-23, 2003, Oxbow Books,
Oxford, pp. 36-45. (INST ARCH KJ GIL)
Moulherat, C. and Spantidaki, Y. (2007) Preliminary results from the textiles discovered in Santorini. In
NESAT 9, 49-52 (INST ARCH KJ Qto RAS)
Spantidaki, Y. AND Moulherat, C. (2012) Greece. In M. Gleba & U. Mannering (eds.), Textiles and
Textile Production in Europe from Prehistory to AD 500, Oxford, Oxbow Books, pp. 182-200. (INST
ARCH KJ GLE)
A good summary and starting point.
Topic 9: Greece: Iron Age, Classical and Roman Periods
Cleland, L., Davies, G., and Llewellyn-Jones, L. (2007) Greek and Roman dress from A to Z.
Routledge, Abingdon. (YATES A 75 CLE)
Llewellyn-Jones, L., ed. (2002) Women’s Dress in the Ancient Greek World. London. (YATES A 75
LLE)
Monaghan, M. (2000) Dyeing establishments in Classical and Hellenistic Greece. In D. Cardon and M.
Feugère (eds.), Archéologie des textiles des origines au Ve siecle, Actes du colloque de Lattes, oct.
1999, 167-172, Monographies Instrumentum 14, Éditions Monique Mergoul (INST ARCH KJ Qto CAR)
Spantidaki, Y. AND Moulherat, C. (2012) Greece. In M. Gleba & U. Mannering (eds.), Textiles and
Textile Production in Europe from Prehistory to AD 500, Oxford, Oxbow Books, pp. 182-200. (INST
ARCH KJ GLE)
A good summary and starting point.
Tzachili, I. and Zimi, E. (2012) Textiles and dress in Greece and the Roman East: a technological and
social approach. Rethimno. (in cataloguing)
Important new volume on Classical and Roman period textiles and tools.
Topic 10: Italy and Switzerland: Neolithic and Bronze Age
Bazzanella, M. et al. (eds.), Textiles. Intrecci e tessuti dalla preistoria europea, 87-97. Riva del Garda
(Trento), Provincia Autonoma di Trento (INST ARCH KJ BAZ)
Good illustrations of the prehistoric material from the Circum-Alpine region.
37
Bazzanella, M. (2012) Italy: Bronze Age. In M. Gleba & U. Mannering (eds.), Textiles and Textile
Production in Europe from Prehistory to AD 500, Oxford, Oxbow Books, pp. 203-214. (INST ARCH KJ
GLE)
A good summary and starting point on Bronze Age Italy.
Harris, S. (2007) Cloth in Prehistoric Societies: The social context of cloth in prehistory, with case
studies from northern Italy and the Alpine region from the Neolithic to Bronze Age. Unpublished PhD
Thesis. Institute of Archaeology, University College London. (UCL THESES STORE)
Medard, F. (2012) Switzerland: Neolithic Period. In M. Gleba & U. Mannering (eds.), Textiles and
Textile Production in Europe from Prehistory to AD 500, Oxford, Oxbow Books, pp. 367-377. (INST
ARCH KJ GLE)
A good summary and starting point on Neolithic Switzerland.
*Rast-Eicher, A., 2005. Bast before wool: the first textiles. In P. Bichler, K. Grömer, R. Hofmann-De
Keijzer, A. Kern and H. Reschreiter (eds), Hallstatt Textiles: Technical Analysis, Scientific Investigation
and Experiment on Iron Age Textiles: 117-131. Oxford: British Archaeological Reports (International
Series 1351). (INST ARCH DABA Qto BIC)
Rast-Eicher, A. (2012) Switzerland: Bronze and Iron Ages. In M. Gleba & U. Mannering (eds.),
Textiles and Textile Production in Europe from Prehistory to AD 500, Oxford, Oxbow Books, pp. 378398. (INST ARCH KJ GLE)
A good summary and starting point on Bronze Age Switzerland.
Spindler, K. (2001) The Man in the Ice: The Preserved Body of a Neolithic Man Reveals the Secrets of
the Stone Age, London: Phoenix. (INST ARCH DAF 10 SPI)
Topic 11: Italy: Iron Age and Roman Periods
Flohr, M. (2013) The World of the Fullo: Work, Economy, and Society in Roman Italy. Oxford Studies
in the Roman Economy, Oxford University Press (INST ARCH KJ FLO)
Frayn, J. M. (1984) Sheep-Rearing and the Wool Trade in Italy during the Roman Period. Liverpool, F.
Cairns. (INST ARCH DAF 100 FRA)
Gleba, M. (2008) Textile Production in Pre-Roman Italy. Oxford: Oxbow. (INST ARCH KJ GLE)
Gleba, M. (2012) Italy: Iron Age. In M. Gleba & U. Mannering (eds.), Textiles and Textile Production in
Europe from Prehistory to AD 500, Oxford, Oxbow Books, pp. 215-242. (INST ARCH KJ GLE)
Hughes, L. (2007) ‘Dyeing’ in Ancient Italy? In C. Gillis and M. L. Nosch (eds.), Ancient Textiles.
Production, Crafts and Society, 87-91, Oxford, Oxbow Books (INST ARCH KJ GIL)
Lipkin, S. (2012) Textile-making in central Tyrrhenian Italy from the final Bronze Age to the Republican
Period. Oxford: BAR (INST ARCH KJ Qto LIP)
Reese D. S. (2005) Whale bones and shell purple-dye at Motya (Western Sicily, Italy). Oxford Journal
of Archaeology 24:2, 107-114. (Available online)
Stauffer, A. (2012) Case Study: The Textiles from Verucchio, Italy. In M. Gleba & U. Mannering (eds.),
Textiles and Textile Production in Europe from Prehistory to AD 500, Oxford, Oxbow Books, pp. 242253. (INST ARCH KJ GLE)
Steingräber, S. (1986) Catalogue Raisonné of Etruscan Tomb Paintings. New York. (YATES
QUARTOS P 132 STE)
Look through for illustrations of garments.
Topic 12: Iberian Peninsula and France
38
Alfaro, C. (2012) Spain. In M. Gleba & U. Mannering (eds.), Textiles and Textile Production in Europe
from Prehistory to AD 500, Oxford, Oxbow Books, pp. 334-348. (INST ARCH KJ GLE)
Bender Jørgensen, L. (1992) North European textiles until AD 1000. Aarhus, Aarhus University Press.
(INST ARCH KJ Qto BEN)
Demant, I. (2011) From stone to textile: constructing the costume of the Dama de Baza.
Archaeological Textiles Newsletter 52, 37-40.
Desrosiers, S. and Lorquin, A. (1998) Gallo-Roman Period Archaeological Textiles found in France. In
L. Bender Jørgensen and C. Rinaldo (eds), Textiles in European Archaeology. Report from the 6th
NESAT Symposium 7-11th May 1996 in Borås, 53-72. Göteborg. (INST ARCH KJ Qto BEN)
Topic 13: Germany: Bronze and Iron Ages
Bender Jørgensen, L. (1992) North European textiles until AD 1000. Aarhus, Aarhus University Press.
(INST ARCH KJ Qto BEN)
Banck-Burgess, J. (1999) Hochdorf VI. Die Textilfunde aus dem späthallstattzeitlichen Fürstengrab
von Eberdingen-Hochdorf (Kreis Ludwigsburg) und weitere Grabtextilien aus Hallstatt- und
Latènezeitlichen Kulturgruppen. Forschungen und Berichte Vor- und Frühgeschichte BadenWürttemberg 70. Stuttgart: Theiß. (INST ARCH DAD Series BAD VOR)
Hochdorf textiles – in German but good for illustrations.
Banck-Burgess, J. (2012a) Case Study: The Textiles from the Princely Burial at Eberdingen-Hochdorf,
Germany. In M. Gleba & U. Mannering (eds.), Textiles and Textile Production in Europe from
Prehistory to AD 500, Oxford, Oxbow Books, pp. 139-152. (INST ARCH KJ GLE)
A good summary and starting point for Hochdorf material.
Banck-Burgess, J. (2012b) Instruments of Power. Celtic Textiles. Stuttgart: Theiss. (in cataloguing)
The latest on the Hochdorf textiles
Möller-Wiering, S. (2012) Germany: Bronze and Pre-Roman Iron Ages. In M. Gleba & U. Mannering
(eds.), Textiles and Textile Production in Europe from Prehistory to AD 500, Oxford, Oxbow Books,
pp. 122-138. (INST ARCH KJ GLE)
A good summary and starting point for the prehistoric periods.
Möller-Wiering, S. and Subbert, J. (2012) Germany: Roman Iron Age. In M. Gleba & U. Mannering
(eds.), Textiles and Textile Production in Europe from Prehistory to AD 500, Oxford, Oxbow Books,
pp. 153-184. (INST ARCH KJ GLE)
A good summary and starting point for the Roman period.
Topic 14: Austria: Bronze and Iron Ages
Bichler P. et al., eds. (2005) Hallstatt Textiles: Technical Analysis, Scientific Investigation and
Experiment on Iron Age Textiles. BAR-IS 1351. Oxford. (INST ARCH DABA Qto BIC)
Grömer, K. (2012) Austria: Bronze and Iron Ages. In M. Gleba & U. Mannering (eds.), Textiles and
Textile Production in Europe from Prehistory to AD 500, Oxford, Oxbow Books, pp. 27-65. (INST
ARCH KJ GLE)
A good summary and starting point.
Grömer, K., Kern, A., Reschreiter, H. and Rösel-Mautendorfer, H. (2013) Textiles from Hallstatt.
Woven culture from Bronze and Iron Age salt mines / Textilien aus Hallstatt. Gewebte Kultur aus dem
bronze- und eisenzeitlichen Salzbergwerk. Archaeolingua Volume 28, Budapest.
The latest and definitive publication of all the textile material from the Hallstatt mines.
Kern, A., Kowarik, K., Rausch, A. W., and Reschreiter, H. (2009) Kingdom of Salt; 7000 years of
Hallstatt. Prehistoric Department, Natural History Museum Vienna, Vienna. (INST ARCH DABB KER)
39
Hundt, H.-J. (1959) Vorgeschichtliche Gewebe aus dem Hallstätter Salzberg. Jahrbuch des RömischGermanischen Zentralmuseums Mainz, vol. 6, pp. 66-100, plates 10-28. (INST ARCH Pers)
Articles in 1960, 1967, 1987 of same journal. Karina Grömer’s research supersedes Hundt’s
but he made an important contribution to textile studies at the time. Beware that Hundt was
not aware of the separation of Bronze Age and Iron Age mine contexts.
Ryder, M. L. (1990) Skin and wool textile remains from Hallstatt. Oxford Journal of Archaeology 9(1),
37-49. (Available online)
Topic 15: Central and Eastern Europe: Bronze and Iron Ages
Belanová Štolcová, T., and Grömer, K (2009) Loom-weights, Spindles and Textiles – Textile
Production in Central Europe from the Bronze Age to the Iron Age. In E. Andersson Strand, M. Gleba,
U. Mannering, C. Munkholt and M. Ringgaard (eds), North European Symposium for Archaeological
Textiles X, Ancient Textile Series 5, 9-20. Oxford. (INST ARCH KJ Qto STR)
Belanová Štolcová, T. (2012) Slovak and Czech Republics. In M. Gleba & U. Mannering (eds.),
Textiles and Textile Production in Europe from Prehistory to AD 500, Oxford, Oxbow Books, pp. 306333. (INST ARCH KJ GLE)
A good summary and starting point for Slovakia and Czech Republic.
Bender Jørgensen, L. (1992) North European textiles until AD 1000. Aarhus, Aarhus University Press.
(INST ARCH KJ Qto BEN)
Chapters on Poland and Central Europe.
Maik, J. (2012) Poland. In M. Gleba & U. Mannering (eds.), Textiles and Textile Production in Europe
from Prehistory to AD 500, Oxford, Oxbow Books, pp. 293-307. (INST ARCH KJ GLE)
A good summary and starting point for Poland.
Topic 16: Britain: Neolithic and Bronze Age
Bender Jørgensen, L. (1992) North European textiles until AD 1000. Aarhus, Aarhus University Press.
(INST ARCH KJ Qto BEN)
DeRoche, D. (2012) England: Bronze and Iron Ages. In M. Gleba & U. Mannering (eds.), Textiles and
Textile Production in Europe from Prehistory to AD 500, Oxford, Oxbow Books, pp. 122-138. (INST
ARCH KJ GLE)
A good summary and starting point.
Gabra-Sanders, T. (1994) Textiles and fibres from the late bronze age hoard from St.Andrews, Fife,
Scotland. In NESAT V, 293-295. (INST ARCH KJ TEX)
Hedges, J. 1974. A Late Bronze Age socketed knife and textile from Nydie Mains, Fife. Proceeding of
the Society of Antiquaries, Scotland 104, 293-295. (Available online)
Henshall, A. (1964) Report on the Cloth in Pyotdykes. Proceedings of the Prehistoric Society 30, 197198. (INST ARCH Pers)
Henshall, A. S. (1950) Textiles and weaving appliances in prehistoric Britain. Proceedings of the
Prehistoric Society NS 16, 130-162. (INST ARCH Pers)
Hurcombe, L. M. (2000) Plants as the raw materials for crafts. In A. Fairbairn (ed.), Plants in Neolithic
Britain and Beyond. Oxford: Oxbow. (INST ARCH DAA 140 FAI)
Wincott Heckett, E. (1998) A Late Bronze Age horsehair ornament from Cromaghs, Armoy in Ireland.
In L. Bender Jørgensen and C. Rinaldo (eds), Textiles in European archaeology. Proceedings of the
6th NESAT symposium, 7-11th May 1996 in Borås, vol. 1, 29-38. Göteborg, Sweden: Göteborg
University. (INST ARCH KJ Qto BEN)
40
Wincott Heckett, E. 2012, "Scotland and Ireland.," In Textiles and Textile Production in Europe. From
Prehistory to AD 400., M. Gleba & U. Mannering, eds., Oxford: Oxbow, pp. 428-442. (INST ARCH KJ
GLE)
A good summary and starting point for Scotland and Ireland.
Topic 17: Britain: Iron Age and Roman
Bender Jørgensen, L. (1992) North European textiles until AD 1000. Aarhus, Aarhus University Press.
(INST ARCH KJ Qto BEN)
Crowfoot, E. (1991) The Textiles. In I. M. Stead (ed.), Iron Age Cemeteries in East Yorkshire, 119-125.
London. (INST ARCH DAA 410 H.6 STE)
DeRoche, D. (2012) England: Bronze and Iron Ages. In M. Gleba & U. Mannering (eds.), Textiles and
Textile Production in Europe from Prehistory to AD 500, Oxford, Oxbow Books, pp. 122-138. (INST
ARCH KJ GLE)
A good summary and starting point.
Wild, J. P. (1970) Textile manufacture in the Northern Roman provinces. Cambridge (INST ARCH KJ
WIL)
A classic text on Roman textile production in Britain.
Wild, J. P. (1977) The Textiles: Vindolanda III. Bardon Mill. (INST ARCH DAA 410 R.4 Series VIN 3)
Wild, J. P. (2002) The Textile Industries of Roman Britain. Britannia, Vol. 33 (2002), pp. 1-42
(AVAILABLE ONLINE)
Wild, J. P. (2007) Textiles. In P. Crummy, S. Benfield, N. Crummy, V. Rigby and D. Shimmin,
Stanway: an Elite Burial Site at Comulodunum, Britannia Monograph 24, 347-350. (INST ARCH DAA
410 Qto CRU)
Wild, J. P. (2012) England: Roman Period. In M. Gleba & U. Mannering (eds.), Textiles and Textile
Production in Europe from Prehistory to AD 500, Oxford, Oxbow Books, pp. 451-456. (INST ARCH KJ
GLE)
A good summary and starting point for Roman period.
Topic 18: Britain: Anglo-Saxon and Medieval
Bender Jørgensen, L. (1992) North European textiles until AD 1000. Aarhus, Aarhus University Press.
(INST ARCH KJ Qto BEN)
Crowfoot, E., Pritchard, F. and Staniland, K. (1992) Textiles and Clothing c. 1150-c. 1450:
Med i e v a l F i n d s f r o m E x c a v a t i o n s i n L o n d o n , Vol. 4. London: Mus. London. (INST ARCH DAA
416 CRO)
Harrington, S. (2008) Aspects of Gender, Identity and Craft Production in the European Migration
Period: Iron Weaving Beaters and associated textile-making Tools from England, Norway and
Alamannia. British Archaeological Report S1797. Oxford. (INST ARCH DA Qto HAR)
Owen-Crocker, G., Coatsworth E. and Hayward, M. (2012) Encyclopedia of Medieval Dress and
Textiles of the British Isles c. 450-1450. Leiden: Brill. (INST ARCH DAA 190 OWE)
An excellent sourcebook.
Walton Rogers, P. (2007) Cloth and clothing in early Anglo-Saxon England, AD 450-700. York. (INST
ARCH DAA 180 ROG)
An overview for the Anglo-Saxon period. See annotated bibliography of the same author at:
http://www.aslab.co.uk/bibliography/
Topic 19: Scandinavia: Bronze Age
41
Bender Jørgensen, L. (1986) Forhistoriske textiler i Skandinavien/ Prehistoric Scandinavian textiles.
Copenhagen (INST ARCH DAN Qto NOR)
Bergerbrant, S., Bender Jørgensen, L. and Fossøy, S. H. (2013) Appearance in Bronze Age
Scandinavia as seen from the Nybøl burial. European Journal of Archaeology 16 (2). (Available online)
Broholm, H.C. abd Hald, M. (1950) Costumes of the Bronze Age in Denmark (STORE FOLIOS 756 –
2 copies)
Still the definitive publication on the textiles from the Danish oak coffin burials.
Mannering, U., Gleba, M. and Bloch Hansen, M. (2012) Denmark. In M. Gleba & U. Mannering (eds.),
Textiles and Textile Production in Europe from Prehistory to AD 500, Oxford, Oxbow Books, pp. 91121. (INST ARCH KJ GLE)
A good summary and starting point.
Randsborg, K. (2011) Bronze Age Textiles: Men, Women and Wealth. Bristol. (INST ARCH KJ RAN)
An interesting but problematic book – look for reviews.
A useful website with the most recent research and fantastic images in particular (although not all in
English):
http://oldtiden.natmus.dk/moeder_med_danmarks_oldtid/language/uk/
Topic 20: Scandinavia: Iron Age
Bender Jørgensen, L. (1986) Forhistoriske textiler i Skandinavien/ Prehistoric Scandinavian textiles.
Copenhagen (INST ARCH DAN Qto NOR)
Franzen, M.-L. et al. (2012) Sweden. In M. Gleba & U. Mannering (eds.), Textiles and Textile
Production in Europe from Prehistory to AD 500, Oxford, Oxbow Books, pp. 349-366. (INST ARCH KJ
GLE)
Gleba, M. and Mannering, U. (2010) A thread to the past: the Huldremose Woman revisited.
Archaeological Textiles Newsletter 50, 32-37 (INST ARCH Pers)
Halvorsen, S. (20120. Norway. In M. Gleba & U. Mannering (eds.), Textiles and Textile Production in
Europe from Prehistory to AD 500, Oxford, Oxbow Books, pp. 275-293. (INST ARCH KJ GLE)
Hald, M. (1980) Ancient Danish Textiles from Bogs and Burials. Copenhagen, National Museum of
Denmark. (INST ARCH DAN Qto HAL; another copy in Main library)
Still the definitive publication on the textiles from Danish bogs.
Mannering, U., Gleba, M. and Bloch Hansen, M. (2012) Denmark. In M. Gleba & U. Mannering (eds.),
Textiles and Textile Production in Europe from Prehistory to AD 500, Oxford, Oxbow Books, pp. 91121. (INST ARCH KJ GLE)
A good summary and starting point.
Vanden Berghe, I., Gleba, M., Mannering, U., 2009. Towards the identification of dyestuffs in Early
Iron Age Scandinavian peat bog textiles. Journal of Archaeological Science 36, 1910–1921. (Available
online)
Important new evidence on dyes used in Danish bog textiles
A useful website with the most recent research and fantastic images in particular (although not all in
English):
http://oldtiden.natmus.dk/moeder_med_danmarks_oldtid/language/uk/
Topic 21: China
Another vast topic with much of literature in Chinese and other languages.
Barber, E. W. (1999) The Mummies of Ürümchi. New York/London. (INST ARCH DBL BAR)
42
Feng, Z. and Wang, L. (2013) Glossary of Textile Terminology (Based on the Documents
from Dunhuang and Turfan). Journal of the Royal Asiatic Society 23, 349-387. (Available online)
Zhao Feng is one of the most important scholars of ancient Chinese silks.
Good, I. (1995) On the Question of Silk in Pre-Han Eurasia. Antiquity 69, 945-958. (Available online)
Kuhn, D. and Feng, Z., eds. (2012) Chinese Silks. New Haven: Yale University Press. (0n order)
Schorta, R., ed. (2006) Central Asian Textiles and Their Contexts in the Early Middle Ages.
Riggisberg. (INST ARCH KJ Qto SCH)
Sheng, A. (1998) Innovations in Textile Techniques on China's Northwest Frontier, 500-700 AD, Asia
Major, Third Series, vol. XI, Part 2, 117-160. (Available online)
Sheng, A. (1999) Why Ancient Silk Is Still Gold: Issues in Chinese Textile History, Ars Orientalis, vol.
XXIX, 148-168. (Available online)
Zhang, X., Good, I., Laursen, R.A., (2008) Characterization of dyestuffs in ancient textiles from
Xinjiang. Journal of Archaeological Science 45 (4), 1095–1103. (Available online)
Zhong, H. and Hann, M. A. (1989) Textile Manufacture in China during the Period of the Warring
States (475–221 B.C.). Journal of The Textile Institute 80(3), 403-413. (Available online)
Dunhuang textiles in V&A:
http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/t/the-silk-road-finds-map-2/
Topic 22: North and Meso-America
Anawalt, P. (1997) Indian clothing before Cortés: Mesoamerican costumes from the codices. Norman:
University of Oklahoma Press. (INST ARCH DFA 600 Qto BER)
Also many other articles and books by the same author.
Drooker, P. and Webster, L, eds. (2000) Beyond Cloth
and Cordage: Current Approaches to Archaeological Textile Research in the Americas. Salt
Lake City: Univ. Utah Press. (INST ARCH KJ DRO)
Follensbee, B. J. A. (2008) Fiber technology and weaving in formative-period Gulf Coast cultures.
Ancient Mesoamerica 19, 87-110. (Available online)
Jakes, K. A. and Sibley, L. R. (1994) A Comparative Collection for the Study of Fibers used in
Prehistoric Textiles from Eastern North America. Journal of Archaeological Science 21, 641-650.
(Available online)
Kuttruff, J. T. (1993) Mississippian period status differentiation through textile analysis: A Caddoan
example. American Antiquity 58(1), 125-145. (Available online)
Teague, L. S. (1992) Textiles and Identity in prehistoric Southwestern North America. In Textiles
Society of America Proceedings 1992. (Available online)
Topic 23: South America
This is another vast topic. Books covering the entire scope of Andean textile production are relatively
rare. More recent works are edited volumes, since scholars tend to specialize in specific cultures.
Anton, F. 1987. Ancient Peruvian Textiles. New York: Thames and Hudson. (INST ARCH DGF Qto
ANT)
D’Harcourt, R. 1962. Textiles of Ancient Peru and their Techniques. Seattle: University of
Washington Press. (INST ARCH DGF Qto D'HAR)
This remains a classic essential text.
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Drooker, P. and Webster, L, eds. (2000) Beyond Cloth
and Cordage: Current Approaches to Archaeological Textile Research in the Americas. Salt
Lake City: Univ. Utah Press. (INST ARCH KJ DRO)
Rowe, A. P. (1984) Costumes and Featherwork of the Lords of Chimor: Textiles from Peru’s
North Coast. Washington, D. C.: The Textile Museum. (INST ARCH DGF 300 ROW)
Stone-Miller, R., et. al. (1992) To Weave for the Sun: Andean Textiles in the Museum of Fine Arts,
Boston. Boston: Museum of Fine Arts. (INST ARCH DGF 300 STO)
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ARCLG223: Textile Archaeology
Tuesday 9-11, Room B13
Schedule
14th January
1: Introduction and course overview; textile uses and functions
21st January
2: Textile preservation and conservation
28th January
3: Raw materials: their sources, properties and analysis
4th February
4: Textile technology
11th February
5: Textile analysis: methods and approaches
18th February
No session (reading week)
25th February
6: Textile analysis: methods and approaches
4th March
7: Textile experimental archaeology
11th March
8: Social, gender and economic aspects of textiles
18th March
9: Museum visit – V&A at Blythe House
25th March
10: Seminar – Textiles and textile production in past cultures
Deadlines
Monday 24 February 2014
Thursday 17 April 2014
Critical essay
Project paper
Co-ordinator: Margarita Gleba
m.gleba@ucl.ac.uk
Office hours: Tuesdays 11:00-13:00 Room 105
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