The Claremont Globetrotter Office of Off-Campus study Volume 4, Issue 2: Spring 2013 Editor: Catherine Raney ‘13 Featuring Stories and Photos from Students in Jordan, Scotland, Australia, Botswana and a Professor’s Perspective on Studying Abroad INSIDE THIS ISSUE Natural Beauty in Jordan 1 By Samantha LaPierre ‘14 Diversity in Southern Africa 2 By Lauren Kecskes ‘14 In Pursuit of “Roomy” Travel 3 By Professor Ferguson Scottish Adventures 5 By Nicole Appleton ‘14 Subtle Differences in the 7 Aussie Lifestyle By Kendyl Klein ‘14 Samantha LaPierre CMC ‘14 rides a camel through the Wadi Rum desert PAGE 1 Natural beauty in Jordan By Samantha LaPierre, ‘14 CIEE — Amman, Jordan: Diplomacy and Policy Studies After a weekend spent frolicking in the depth of the Jordanian desert, I am safely at home in Amman. Cozy under a fluffy blanket and sipping on delicious hot chocolate, I am once again at my favorite cafe at a place called "Sharia Rinbuw" or "Rainbow Street." This weekend, however, was truly amazing. I rode a camel lead by a Bedouin man through the seemingly never ending desert called Wadi Rum, or "Valley of the Moon." I toured Petra and hiked to a place they call the "the view of the end of the world." I met new people in other CIEE programs. And I counted 23 shooting stars while laying in the sand in the middle of the desert in the middle of the night. It was a humbling experience. As a total sucker for natural beauty, I long for experiences in remote, beautiful places. This definitely qualified. As I was climbing up rocks in the middle of Wadi Rum to a proper lookout from which I planned on watching the sunset, I couldn't help but feel so in my element. Surrounded by such fragile beauty and sharing the experience with new, but good, friends...I was in awe. Definitely nice to get away from the hustle/bustle of the big city and see the infamous deserts of the Middle East. The Claremont Globetrotter It was so serene, so peaceful, so beautiful. Anyways, I am now back in Amman and I have a full week ahead-classes, lectures, interviews, not to mention complete cultural immersion. The culmination of the week will be a trip to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs on Thursday afternoon. Following this outing, I will hopefully be departing for the Dead Sea with a few friends for the weekend. We are likely going to relax, explore, and of course, float in the salty sea. Samantha at “the view of the end of the world” This past week completed my first month in Jordan--so crazy! I am absolutely loving it here and am already realizing how much I am going to miss it when I leave in May. The weather is warming and the sun is shining; my Arabic is improving and my classes are stimulating; and my friendships are growing and deepening. All is well! Sunset in the Wadi Rum or “Valley of the Moon” desert At Petra, I successfully hiked 15 miles to the end of the world, where I overlooked staggering rock peaks and carefully carved valleys as far as the eye could see. Occasionally, I spotted a Bedouin man singing loudly while traversing the rocky cliffs with his heard of goats. Although I loved seeing the ancient city and the rock carvings that most people think of when they hear "Petra," the supposed end of the world was my favorite part of the experience. Jordanian Countryside PAGE 2 T HE C LAREMONT G LOBETROTTER D IVERSITY IN S OUTHERN A FRICA B Y L AUREN K ECSKES ‘14 CIEE — G ABORONE , B OTSWANA : A RTS AND S CIENCES From the pictures, you can tell that the southern African region is very diverse, ranging from dry desert and bush, to coastal beaches and lush river deltas. The differences between cultures and mannerisms of people often mirror the diversity in the landscape. This picture of the Victoria Falls was taken on the bridge that connects Zambia and Zimbabwe. Lauren’s friend, Hunter, sits with the chief and his son. A giraffe wanders in a game reserve in South Africa. This is Lauren’s daily walk to the bus stop on her way to the University of Gaborone. Children play at the water’s edge in Myoli Beach in South Africa. st PAGE 3 T HE C LAREMONT G LOBETROTTER This is clearly visible in the shape and details of my last major international trip to I N PURSUIT OF “ ROOMY ” TRAVEL Spain over spring break. It seemed that all the trails, trials, and exuberant experiences acBy Dr. Heather Ferguson quired across the course of my journeys since Assistant Professor of Middle East and Ottoman History that spring and summer in 1993 were fully emClaremont McKenna College bodied in the eight days and eight cities whirlwind architectural tour that served as my introIt’s quite possible that I’m a travel extremist. My first maduction to the region. I was still an extremist, jor international trip alone was to a small village off a topsy-turvy amply illustrated by my itinerary, but I was road between Bangkok and Chiang Mai where I spent six months outfitted by one backpack, a GPS, a car to building an English-language library for a small private college in transport me from Madrid to Granada and beThailand. I had NO idea what I was doing. I sat in a dark room yond, and a firm knowledge of the medieval painstakingly applying the Dewey Decimal system to a strange asand early modern landscape in which Muslim, sortment of donated books (this was 1993, cards and an old typeChristian, and Jewish lives left still writer were my primary aids) and my only form of transportation was a dirt bike that was desperately “I gradually learned that visible traces across the Iberian too large for me. Thus, my time spent in Thailand the best way to travel or Peninsula. I didn’t put on a sarong, obviously, but I was also better at was a crash-course (quite literally, given the afore- live abroad is to make sure to leave room for approximating that illusive physical mentioned dirt bike) in what not to do when transthe unexpected.” and mental agility to become fluporting oneself to a foreign clime. Don’t pack two idly transported across geographic huge suitcases of clothes, because you might end spaces and layers of architectural time. Having up wearing cotton sarongs the whole time. Don’t assume that just lived for short and long periods in Cairo, Ambecause you’ve eaten Thai food you know about the cuisine, as man, Beirut, Damascus, Budapest, Istanbul and villagers survive on cups of rice and boiled greens. Don’t assume Ankara, I gradually learned that the best way to that you can just “pick up the language” because you might distravel or live abroad is to make sure to leave cover that a six-toned system makes even an order of fruit a perroom for the unexpected and to not stuff either plexing trial. Don’t travel without maps, as one day’s journey up bags or heads with conjectures about the destiand down a railroad track looking for the turn-off to the village nation. might leave you drenched in sweat and horrified by a seeming lack of direction without the paraphernalia of urban sign-posting. And most importantly, don’t assume you know what such a trip can “give” you, as the rewards of even old library cards and dirt bike accidents may have reverberations that last a life time. The Alcazàr in Seville was constructed with shared artisanal knowledge from workshops in the Muslim stronghold of Granada and the grandeur of the Alhambra. The bridge to Toledo was a major site of the Reconquista. It was taken by the Christian militia from Muslim overlords in 1085. Page 4 T HE C LAREMONT G LOBETROTTER This is harder than it might sound. Travel is an industry that revels in destination guides, TripAdvisors, constant blogospheric commentary, advice and photo galleries that may exceed in quality any picture taken on your own journey. My most treasured travel experience was an impromptu trip to Italy during an archival year spent in Istanbul. I had formed a friendship with an Italian actor from Pisa, and simply got on a plane with her when she went on tour with a traveling troupe. We parted ways in Verona, and I rather haphazardly boarded trains, grabbed local maps, and wandered the streets of Venice, Florence, and Luca. I thus had room for what is now recognizably the most profound moment of my traveling life: I turned a Florentine corner and “ran into” Brunelleschi’s Dome—that masterpiece of Italian Renaissance architecture. I vividly remember dropping my water bottle and spending the next hour circling the building with jaw-dropped awe wearing a sopping t-shirt. It was sheer pleasure. As was the plate du jour ordered in a back street off the many canals in Venice where I determinedly ate the baby octopus despite having been raised a vegetarian. Both acquired a sense of the exquisite because I hadn’t charted my way to them but had instead followed the natural arc of the city and the natural flow of the lunch crowds. We can’t, and perhaps even shouldn’t, always travel with such heedless abandon. Yet the idea of “roomy” travel can still play a role even when our itineraries or lives require more structure. Get lost, for example. Preferably in an area more stimulating than a dusty train track, but certainly turning off the main street can open surprising new vistas. Small arbors with the best fresh lemonade in Budapest, for example, or tiny tiled mosques on the Asian shore of the Bosphorus with a stooped door opened by an old imam with an iron key. The most frustrating aspect of my spring break trip was that I didn’t have time to get lost, and so I longingly await the moment of return when the true discovery can begin; when I take a left instead of the right glaringly indicated by the little blue bobble on my iPhone. Left : 15th century liturgical robes that astonishingly use Arabic script as a decorative motif some 300 years after the reconquest Middle: Cordoba retains a semblance of a Jewish quarter yet only three synagogues remain in the entire country Right: Hebrew and Arabic script decorating walls of a Toledo synagogue PAGE 5 T HE C LAREMONT G LOBETROTTER S COTTISH A DVENTURES B Y N ICOLE A PPLETON ‘14, S TUDIED ABROAD F ALL ‘13 B UTLER , IFSA — E DINBURGH , S COTLAND : U NIVERSITY OF EDINBURGH The view of Edinburgh from atop Arthur’s seat! I, along with some of the more adventure-inclined friends from the program, climbed Arthur’s seat on the afternoon we landed. It still amazes me that such a beautiful scene can sit a mere 15 minute walk from the city’s center. Another thing making this study abroad experience so incredible is how warm and friendly the locals are; once we made it to the top (with 60+ year old, inshape Scotsmen passing us every other minute), a local (yes, wearing a kilt!) offered us a panoramic tour of the city, pointing out the highlights. Me and some of my program enjoying the views while at our home stay weekend in Appleby-in-Westmorland (Northern England). The majority of what I’ve seen of Scotland and England is this green and beautiful all the time (I’m sure the rain contributes, but it’s well worth it!). Castles and sheep, sheep and castles. Almost every weekend trip I’ve attended makes sure to highlight the city/town’s castles, most of which are surrounded by flocks of sheep, cows, peacocks, etc. This picture is of me climbing on top of Pendragon Castle (yeah, awesome name), which was definitely a memorable couple hours during my home stay weekend in Cumbria. This castle was constructed in 1360 and was home to King Arthur’s father; so much history can be found in each place we visit! Page 6 T HE C LAREMONT G LOBETROTTER Amazing little waterfalls are all around the city and make for quite the relaxed picnic spot! Some friends and I picked up some sandwich fixings and enjoyed this view (a mere 10 minute stroll outside of the city). Four proud stagthenas (Ellie Smith ‘14, Candace Filippelli ‘14, me ‘14, Eric Van Wart ‘14) commemorating an incredible trip in front of a stag statue we found in Inverness. Great company, great sights, great memories- no words ring truer. PAGE 7 The Claremont Globetrotter SUBTLE DIFFERENCES IN THE AUSSIE LIFESTYLE By Kendyl Klein ‘14 Arcadia, Australia: University of Melbourne So how’s life in Melbourne, you ask? “Mel-bin”, as the Aussies pronounce it, is the California of the other side of the world – I don’t even know if I can consider it as being “abroad.” Its very similar to home. Sometimes I have to remind myself that I am here, because it really just feels like I am in a combination of San Francisco and Los Angeles. Whereas last semester, whilst in Madrid, every second of the day reminded me that I was most definitely NOT at home – the language barrier, the old buildings, the metro, the strange stores. Melbourne has Target, Costco, K-mart, even 7/11. Yes, they do have accents, but I hardly notice them anymore. The city of Melbourne is beautiful. I think it is a combination of SF and LA because it is fairly walkable, but also has a public tram system. The tram is doable, but like in San Francisco, life would be a lot easier if I had a car. It is by the water, the majority of people walk everywhere while in the Central Business District (downtown), but there are still thousands of cars in the streets. It was rated the number one most livable city last year and my friends and I decided that it is so livable because of the location, the cool architecture, the emphasis on sports, and the attitudes of the people. EVERYONE is so nice. All of the Aussies talk to you like they have known you for years and love to help if you seem lost. Beach near Melbourne I am still trying to get the hang of cars and bikes coming from opposite directions – crossing the street is probably one of the more dangerous parts of the city, but only because I am American. It is also weird to walk on the sidewalks because if a biker is coming toward me I have the desire to dart to the right but each time I have done that I have nearly died. So now I am at the stage where the biker and I do a little dance until we decide who will move to which side of the sidewalk. It is weird to train myself to jump to the left to get out of the way. You also stand on the left on escalators. So different! “It is so livable because of the location, the cool architecture, the emphasis on sports, and the attitudes of the people.” View of “Mel-bin” PAGE 8 T HE C LAREMONT G LOBETROTTER The weather here is very strange. So far it has been quite hot and humid everyday. In the mid 30s, which is about high 90s in Fahrenheit. The weird part is, though, that Melbourne has the tendency to go through four seasons in one day. For example, my friend and fellow CMCer, Matt Lee, and I were walking in tank tops, shorts, and sandals the other day, and all of a sudden the wind picked up and it was pouring rain. Apparently that is common and we should start carrying umbrellas everywhere, especially when summer is actually over. During the past month, we have all learned the hard way that the sun is much stronger over here. Did you know that Australia has no ozone layer? It only takes 10 minutes to get sunburnt. I think I got my first one while waiting for the bus at the airport. Australia has the highest melanoma statistics in the world, which is also scary. Don’t worry; I now wear sunscreen every single day. Our leaders scared us when they casually said, “one day you’ll find a mole, and six weeks later you may no longer be with us.” A lot of Aussies follow NFL and NBA and even know more about it than we do, which is impressive. Apparently Melbourne is THE sport city so hopefully I will be able to go to a cricket game, soccer match, and a footie game. Footie is Australian Rules football and it looks nuts. Look it up! I watched my first game last night! Pretty intense. Recently, I hit my four week mark. Four weeks since the16 hour flight to the place that is now my home. I feel like I have gotten to see a lot and meet a lot of people in little over a month’s time. I have definitely started noticing the weird Aussie-isms and am still unsure if I ever will pick them up. Instead of saying “I think” most people say “I reckon,” which to me sounds silly, especially when kids my age say it. I only seem to picture an old man from Texas saying that phrase. In America, we tend to say “I’m down” or “I want to,” but here the phrase is “I’m keen.” For example, “is anyone keen on watching a movie tonight?” Weird, right? The common greeting is “how ya going,” which I still have trouble answering…” I’m going…good?” It seems like improper English to me. Instead of taking a nap or shower, they “have” a nap or shower. Sounds strange. They also use the word dodgy a lot. An equivalent would be sketchy. Bogans is a word used to describe people from the country. Interestingly enough, I have yet to hear anyone say “G’Day Mate! Or “crikey.” Not everything you hear about Australia is true. For more information on study abroad, please contact: Office of Off-Campus Study Heggblade Center 850 Columbia Avenue Claremont, CA 91711 (909) 621-8267 fax: (909) 607-8690 studyabroad@cmc.edu “Melbourne is THE sports city.”