PASOLD RESEARCH FUND CONFERENCE 2012
Innovation before the Modern
Cloth and Clothing in the Early Modern World
Nordiska Museet, Stockholm, 27-29 September 2012
Thursday 27 September 2012
13.00-14.00
Registration
14.00-14.15
Welcome: Klas Nyberg (Uppsala University, Sweden), Peter McNeil (Stockholm University, Sweden) and Giorgio Riello (Pasold Research Fund, UK)
14.15-15-15
Plenary Lecture 1: Evelyn Welch (Queen Mary College, University of London, UK), Men’s Legs and the Rise of the Early Modern Stocking. Chair: Peter
McNeil
15.15-15.45
15.45-17.30
Coffee Break
Session 2. Social Attitudes towards Innovation
Session 3. Innovation and Guilds
Chair: Lesley Miller (V&A, UK & Pasold)
Chair: David Jenkins (York University, UK & Pasold)
Chair: Pat Hudson (Cardiff University, UK & Pasold)
Tracey Wedge, University of Southampton,
UK
A Wardrobe Dictated by Wind, Sea,
Merchants and Masters
Annika Windahl Pontén, Uppsala University,
Sweden
Habit is our Second Nature: Carl Linnaeus on
Luxurious Habits, Morality and Health
Cecilia Candréus, Uppsala University, Sweden
Women, Guild and Professionalism in the Trade of
Embroidery
Pia Bengtsson Melin, Upplandsmuseet,
Sweden
Artist or Artisan? Fashioning the Northern
Renaissance Self-Portrait
Jenny Nyberg, Stockholm University, Sweden
From Festive Celebration to Peaceful Sleep.
Dynamics Behind Changes in Funerary Costume in
Seventeenth and Eighteenth Century Sweden
Elisabeth Gernerd, Edinburgh University, UK
Folding Arches of Silk: Navigating the
Eighteenth-Century Calash
Herman Bengtsson, Upplandsmuseet, Sweden
Contemporary Fashion or Disguised antiSemitism? Some Remarks on the Use of Male
Clothing in Late Medieval Swedish Mural-Painting
Session 1. Self-Fashioning
William Farrell, Birkbeck, University of London, UK
People vs Things: The Worshipful Company of
Weavers and the Regulation of Technology,
Textiles and Artisans in Eighteenth-century
London
Joana Isabel Sequeira, University of Porto, Portugal
and EHESS Paris, France
No Place for Guilds: Alternative Models of
Organisation in Portugal’s Medieval Textile
Industry
Friday 28 September 2012
10.15-12.00
Session 4. Technology and Innovation
Session 5. Materials and Textiles Innovation: Silk and Cotton
Chair: Lars Magnusson (Uppsala University, Sweden)
Chair: Giorgio Riello (Pasold Research Fund & University of Warwick, UK)
Christer Ahlberger, University of Gothenburg, Sweden
Lars G Strömberg, University of Borås, Sweden
Textile Heritage 1400-1800
Ben Marsh, University of Stirling, UK
Trials in the Wilderness: Silkworms in the Northern American Colonies,
c. 1680-1800
Vanessa Habib, Independent Scholar, Edinburgh, UK
Bleaching and Weaving in the Age of the Scottish Enlightenment
John Styles, University of Hertfordshire, UK
What was Cotton Cloth in Early-Modern Europe?
Martin Ciszuk, University of Borås, Sweden
Swedish Eighteenth-Century Silk Weaving - Technology and Design
12.00-13.00 Plenary Lecture 2: Amanda Wunder (Lehman College and the Graduate Center, City University of New York, USA), The Spanish Style: Extreme Fashion
in an Age of Empire, 1492-1700. Chair: Giorgio Riello
13.00-14.00
Lunch
14.00-16.00
Session 6. Gender and Innovation
Session 7. Shaping the New
Chair: Felicia Gottman (University of Warwick, UK)
Chair: Miles Lambert (Platt Hall, Manchester, UK & Pasold)
Seija Johnson, University of Jyväskylä, Finland
New Materials, New Dresses: Ladies’ Clothing in Kokkola in the 18th
Century
Elisa Tosi Brandi, University of Bologna, Italy
Tailoring in the Middle Ages and the Skills to Shaping the Body
Nadia Fernández-de-Pinedo, Autonomous University of Madrid, Spain
Consumption, Women and Luxury in the Capital: Madrid c. 1750
Pernilla Rasmussen, Lund University, Sweden
Tradition and Development in Cutting and Construction Methods for
Women’s Fashionable Dress, c. 1750-1830
Gillian Crosby, Nottingham Trent University, UK
The Folly of Our Women: Female Roles in the Clandestine Chintz Trade
in France, 1686-1759
Hilary Doda, Dalhousie University, Canada
“Saide Monstrous Hose”: Compliance, Transgression and English
Sumptuary Legislation
Francesco Vianello, University of Padua, Italy
Common People Silk: Silk Goods in Low-status women Dowries in
Sixteenth to Eighteenth-Century Mainland Venice
Tiina Kuokkanen, University of Oulu, Finland
Clothing According to the Sumptuary Laws? Dress Accessories in Early
Modern Oulu
16.00-16.30
16.30-18.15
Coffee Break
Session 8. Between New and Old
Session 9. Innovation, Technology and Mechanisation
Chair: Philip Sykas (Manchester Metropolitan University, UK & Pasold)
Chair: Evelyn Welch (Queen Mary College, University of London, UK &
Pasold)
Patricia Te Arapo Wallace, University of Canterbury, New Zealand
The Rise and Demise of the Kahu Kuri – the Indigenous Maori Dog-Skin
Cloak
Tracey Griffiths, University of Melbourne, Australia
Colour Trends in Sixteenth-Century Venice
Daria Radchenko, Independent Scholar, Moscow, Russia
Dressing the Army: Imported Cloths for Moscow Streltsy in the
Seventeenth Century
Ruth Gilbert, Independent Scholar, Marsden, UK
The Development of Hand-knitting Technology in Britain in the Sixteenth
and Seventeenth Centuries: Evidence from Surviving Garments
Bjørn Sverre Hol Haugen, Hedmark County Museum, Norway
Practices of Dress among 18th Century Norwegian Farmers
Laurel Ann Wilson, Fordham University, USA
Men Weave with their Feet: The Impact of the Foot-powered Loom on
Medieval Society
Saturday 29 September 2012
10.15-12.00
Session 10. Global Markets and Global Consumers
Chair: Amanda Wunder (Lehman College and the Graduate Center, City
University of New York, USA)
Beverly Lemire, University of Alberta, Canada
English Mariners, Plebeian Consumerism and New Worlds of Fashion in
an Era of Global Trade, c. 1600-1800
Hanna Hodacs, University of Warwick, UK
Colours in Abundance and Bundles: The Sale of Chinese Silk Textiles at
the Scandinavian East India Company’s Auctions
12.00-13.00
Session 11. Markets, Actors, and the State
Chair: Ghulam Nadri (Georgia State University, USA & LSE, UK)
Lili-Annè Aldman, University of Gothenburg, Sweden
Markets for New Textiles in Seventeenth and Eighteenth-Century Sweden
Marguerite Martin, University of Paris 1 Pantheon-Sorbonne, France
Negotiating Quality in the Dyeing Industry: Dyers, French State and Blue
Textiles during the Eighteenth Century
Anna Brismark, University of Gothenburg, Sweden
Pia Lundqvist, University of Gothenburg, Sweden
Jewish Manufacturers in Gothenburg and their Renewal of Textile
Production
Lunch
13.00-15.00
Session 12. Product and Process Innovation
Session 13. Dress and Social Hierarchies
Chair: Klas Nyberg (Uppsala University, Sweden)
Chair: Pia Lundqvist (University of Gothenburg, Sweden)
Andrea Caracausi, University of Padua, Italy
Small Innovation, Big Transformation: Italian Ribbons between Global
and Local Markets
Cecilia Aneer, Uppsala University, Sweden
The King’s Lining Makes the Servant’s Shirt: A Hierarchy of Materials and
their Uses at the Swedish Royal Court c. 1600-1640
Kirstie Buckland, The Knitting History Forum, UK
‘A Sign of Some Degree’, The Mystery of Capping
Corinne Thepaut-Cabasset, V&A, UK
Dressing the Elite. New Fashion Networks Throughout Europe at the End of
the Seventeenth Century
Lena Dahrén, Uppsala University, Sweden
Pricked Patterns as Innovation in the Development and Production of
Bobbin-Made Edgings for Accessories of Clothing in the Early Modern
Period
Philip Sykas, Manchester Metropolitan University, UK & Pasold
Damasking by Hot Rolls: The Impressed Worsteds of the Eighteenth
Century
Eva Deak, Hungarian Academy of Sciences, Hungary
Transylvanian Noblemen Buying Cloths in the Second Half of the
Seventeenth Century
Eva Andersson, University of Gothenburg, Sweden
Clothing Consumption in 16th and 17th Century Stockholm
15.00-15.30
Coffee Break
15.30-16.30 Plenary Lecture 3: Lars Magnusson (Uppsala University, Sweden), From Smithian to Ricardian Growth: The Textile industry in Change and Innovation
1750-1850. Chair: Klas Nyberg
16.30-17.00
Conclusion
Supported by
The Pasold Research Fund
Jan Wallanders, Tom Hedelius
and Tore Browaldhs Stiftelse
Åke Wibergs Stiftelse
HERA Project: Fashioning the
Early Modern
UP PS AL A UN I VE R SI TE T