w w Name ap eP m e tr .X Candidate Number w Centre Number 6050/01 FASHION AND FABRICS Paper 1 Theory October/November 2004 2 hours Candidates answer Section A on the Question Paper. Additional Materials: Answer Booklet/Paper Coloured pencils (not yellow) Ruler Small piece of fabric, needle and thread READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS FIRST Write your Centre number, candidate number and name on all the work you hand in. Write in dark blue or black pen in the spaces provided on the Question Paper. You may use a soft pencil for any diagrams or rough working. Do not use staples, paper clips, highlighters, glue or correction fluid. The insert is for use with Questions 1 and 7. You should illustrate your answers by means of clear, bold diagrams wherever possible. You may use a needle and thread and a small piece of fabric to help in making drawings of stitches. This fabric should not be handed in with your work. Section A Answer all parts of Question 1 in the spaces provided on the Question Paper. You are advised to spend no longer than 40 minutes on Section A. Section B Answer any three questions. Write your answers on the separate answer Booklet/Paper provided. Enter the numbers of the Section B questions you have answered in the grid below. At the end of the examination, fasten all your work securely together. The number of marks is given in brackets [ ] at the end of each question or part question. For Examiner’s Use Section A If you have been given a label, look at the details. If any details are incorrect or missing, please fill in your correct details in the space given at the top of this page. Section B Stick your personal label here, if provided. TOTAL This document consists of 8 printed pages and an insert. (KN) S61220/4 © UCLES 2004 [Turn over om .c s er UNIVERSITY OF CAMBRIDGE INTERNATIONAL EXAMINATIONS General Certificate of Education Ordinary Level For Examiner’s Use 2 Section A Refer to the Insert (see attached sheet). Answer all questions in the spaces provided. 1 (a) Label the style features/items using at least two words in each case: A .................................................... H .............................................................. B .................................................... I .............................................................. C .................................................... J .............................................................. D .................................................... K .............................................................. E .................................................... L .............................................................. F .................................................... M .............................................................. G .................................................... N .............................................................. [14] (b) Crepe could be used for the top, and gabardine for the pants/ trousers. Complete the following details: Fabric – Crepe Fibre ................................................................................................................................. Structure ........................................................................................................................... Appearance ...................................................................................................................... Feel/handle ...................................................................................................................... Weight .............................................................................................................................. [5] Fabric – Gabardine Fibre ................................................................................................................................. Structure ........................................................................................................................... Appearance ...................................................................................................................... Feel/handle ...................................................................................................................... Weight .............................................................................................................................. [5] © UCLES 2004 6050/01/O/N/04 For Examiner’s Use 3 (c) Explain why crepe would be suitable for the top, giving two reasons 1. ...................................................................................................................................... 2. ...................................................................................................................................... [2] (d) State three body measurements which would be needed before making the trousers, view D. 1. ...................................................................................................................................... 2. ...................................................................................................................................... 3. ...................................................................................................................................... [3] (e) (i) State how much fabric would be required to make the top, view B, and pants/trousers in size 12: Top view B: Fabric width ..................................... amount .......................................... Fabric width ..................................... amount .......................................... Interfacing width .............................. amount .......................................... Pants/trousers: Fabric width ..................................... amount .......................................... Interfacing width .............................. amount .......................................... [10] (ii) The pattern states that the amount of fabric required for the top view B is “with or without nap”. Explain what is meant by “nap”. ................................................................................................................................... ...............................................................................................................................[2] © UCLES 2004 6050/01/O/N/04 [Turn over For Examiner’s Use 4 (f) The layout below is for the top view B. 44"/45" (115 cm) 1 4 5 2 (i) Label the folds and selvedges. (ii) Label the pattern pieces: 3 [5] 1 ................................................................................................................................ 2 ................................................................................................................................ 3 ................................................................................................................................ 4 ................................................................................................................................ 5 ............................................................................................................................[5] (g) Complete the instructions for making the facing on the top edge of the pants/trousers, using the words from the box below: oversewing upper catch-stitch Grade right side Edge-stitch notches inside zipper clip (i) Pin facing to skirt ........................................................................ together, matching ........................................................................, centre front and side seams. © UCLES 2004 6050/01/O/N/04 [2] 5 (ii) ........................................................................ seam allowances to different widths close to stitching. ........................................................................ curves. (iii) (v) [2] Turn facing to ........................................................................ . Press. ........................................................................ facing to seams. (iv) For Examiner’s Use [2] Turn in back edges of facing and hand-sew to .......................................................... tapes. [1] ........................................................................ skirt close to upper edge. [1] HOOK EYE (vi) Sew hook and eye using ........................................................................ stitch, above zipper. © UCLES 2004 [1] 6050/01/O/N/04 [Turn over 6 (h) On the pattern piece below for the pants/trousers back, draw and label eight pattern markings you would expect to find: [8] (i) Explain, using labelled diagrams, one method of transferring pattern markings onto fabric. .......................................................................................................................................... .......................................................................................................................................... .......................................................................................................................................... ......................................................................................................................................[4] (j) Draw the care label you would expect to find in the pair of pants/trousers made from cotton gabardine. [6] © UCLES 2004 6050/01/O/N/04 For Examiner’s Use 7 Section B Answer three questions from this section. 2 (a) Outline the basic manufacture of acrylic. [6] (b) State six properties of acrylic. [6] (c) Name and describe the structure of: 3 4 (i) a bonded fabric (ii) a weft knitted fabric [6] Using labelled diagrams, explain how to: (a) level a hem on a skirt before turning it up [4] (b) make a narrow machined hem on a cotton denim skirt [6] (c) hand-stitch a hem on a polyester/cotton shirt [6] (d) press a completed hem correctly [2] Explain how the following fabric finishes are applied and name one fabric in each case on which it can be used successfully. (a) anti-static (b) heat setting (c) shower-repellent (d) flame-retardant (e) Mercerising (f) 5 [3 × 6] Weighting Explain how: (a) fibres and yarns can be dyed [6] (b) block printing is carried out in the home [6] (c) roller printing is carried out commercially [6] © UCLES 2004 6050/01/O/N/04 [Turn over 8 6 7 (a) Explain why it is necessary to take accurate body measurements before using a pattern. [6] (b) Give a brief order of work for making a school skirt. [8] (c) Name two stages at which a skirt should be fitted. [2] (d) State two stages at which pressing should be carried out in garment-making. [2] Refer to the Insert. Using notes and labelled diagrams, explain how to: (a) attach ric-rac trim to the lower edge of pants/trousers, by hand or machine [6] (b) sketch and label a pocket which could be attached to the pants/trousers with a decorative design, using hand or machine stitching [6] (c) attach a purchased motif to the pants/trousers [6] Every reasonable effort has been made to trace all copyright holders where the publishers (i.e. UCLES) are aware that third-party material has been reproduced. The publishers would be pleased to hear from anyone whose rights they have unwittingly infringed. University of Cambridge International Examinations is part of the University of Cambridge Local Examinations Syndicate (UCLES), which is itself a department of the University of Cambridge. © UCLES 2004 6050/01/O/N/04