The University of North Carolina Greensboro
Department of Consumer, Apparel, and Retail Studies
Spring 2014 – SUBJECT TO REVISION
APD 200
Mondays and Wednesdays, 1:00-3:15 p.m.
Instructor: Susanne P. Jordan, PhD
Email: smjordan@uncg.edu
368 and 369 Stone Bldg.
Office hours by appointment
Phone: 366-299-4999 (before 9 p.m.)
Accommodations: UNCG seeks to comply fully with the Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA). Students
requiring accommodations based on a disability must be registered with the Office of Disability Service in 215
Elliott University Center. 334-5440. http:/./ods.dept.uncg.edu/,ods@uncg.edu.
Note: The instructor reserves the right alter the syllabus as necessary at any time during the semester.
Required Text: Threads Sewing Guide, Carol Fresia (Ed), Taunton Press. ISBN 978-1-60085-144-5 (Available
from UNCG bookstore or Amazon.)
Required materials/supplies are noted in bold on the equipment list. UNCG Bookstore will be carrying the
essential Juki sewing machine parts and needles. Other sewing equipment is available from stores like JoAnn’s,
Hancocks and specialty quilting/sewing stores. Students may also purchase their Juki equipment directly by
calling Bill’s Sewing. A list of required and optional equipment from Bill’s is at the end of this syllabus.
NOTE: Students who do not have the text, essential Juki supplies and recommended sewing equipment by
Jan. 27 (we have a sewing exam that day) will be dropped from APD 200.
Additional resources are noted in the syllabus or available through Blackboard.
Course Description:
(3:2:3) There are no prerequisites for this class. The purpose of the course is to
develop and increase students’ apparel construction skills. Students who earn a grade of C or better will be
exempt from the sewing proficiency exam and will earn three hours credit as a CARS elective.
Course Rationale:
Apparel design students need a working knowledge of sewing construction techniques
and skills demonstrating and building sewing proficiencies applicable to design, flat pattern drafting, draping,
grading, sizing and fit as offered in advanced apparel design classes.
Course Objectives:
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Expectations: Students are expected to be in class arriving on time, working on projects for this class.
Please review the syllabus so you will have the materials needed for class and come to class with materials
prepared. If in doubt, bring text, equipment for machine sewing, muslin, patterns, interfacing and sewing
equipment. Reading assignments should be completed prior to class. It is understood that the range of sewing
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Emphasis in this class is on identifying appropriate, utilizing, and improving clothing
construction skills. Students have the opportunity to compare and utilize industry and home sewing techniques,
patterns and resources as they develop skills including, but not limited to the use of appropriate materials,
accurate cutting techniques, pattern and instruction reading, accurate seams, seam finishes, darts, setting in
sleeves, insertion of zippers, under stitching, and effective pressing techniques. Students will practice sewing
techniques as they construct samples and apply these skills to the sewing proficiency blouse (SPB) and a final
project where students demontrate their increased autonomy in clothing construction skills.
skills is highly variable at the beginning of the semester. Therefore, this course is taught in an experiential
format. All students are expected to do all of their own construction. Students will have the opportunity to
develop skills that provide the foundation for success in future APD courses and for independent construction of
garments classified as “easy” to “intermediate.”
The course content is organized in an orderly “sequence of sewing” and students are expected to demonstrate
previously learned skills as they are applicable to projects reflecting “new learning” throughout the course.
As a minimum passing grade (C) students will attend class regularly, successfully complete the assignments,
quizzes and exams with quality workmanship; construct and complete the sewing proficiency blouse; and
construct a final project from an instructor determined list of options.
Final: Students will prepare a 2-3 page written (typed) summary and present a 5 minute talk to demonstrate
highlights of what they have learned, their challenges, and future goals in clothing construction or the clothing
industry. Students may show samples and projects from their semester’s work in APD 200 to support their
presentation. (This is not intended to be a student summary of the syllabus!)
Evaluation of Sewing:
Will be evaluated on standards of the Association of Sewing and Design
Professionals (ASDP), including: accuracy of cutting using scissors and/or a rotary cutter, consistent seam
allowances, clean starts and finishes with threads secured properly, use of appropriate seam finishes, correct
application of special techniques such as edge stitching, under stitching or stitching in the ditch, correct pressing
and overall neatness of the finished item. See ASDP guidelines for details – a copy is in Blackboard Documents.
Point system
Grading scale:
A+ = 97-100
A = 93-96.99
A- = 90-92.99
B+= 87-89.99
B = 83-86.99
B-= 80-82.99
C+= 77.-79.99
C = 73-76.99
C-= 70.72.99
D+= 67.69.99
D = 63.66.99
D- = 60-62.99
F = below 60
Class attendance, preparation and participation
15%
150 pts.
Including pop quizzes and completion of “exam wrappers”
Samples, assignments and sewing exams
40%
400
Sewing Proficiency Blouse
20%
200
Final Project
20%
180-200
Final Presentation
5%
50
A= high quality work beyond stated requirements. “Excellent”
B= quality work satisfying requirements. “Very good”
C = satisfies work requirements “Good”
D = Minimally acceptable: “Needs more effort”
Unacceptable
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aids in any academic exercise. Cheating includes but is not limited to unauthorized copying of the work of
another student, using notes or other materials not authorized during an examination, giving or receiving
information or assistance on work when it is expected that a student will do his/her own work, or engaging in
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Academic Integrity: “Intentionally using or attempting to use unauthorized materials, information, or study
any similar act that violates the concept of academic integrity. Cheating may occur on an examination, test, quiz,
laboratory work report, theme, out of class assignment or any other work submitted by a student to fulfill
course requirements and presented as solely the work of the student.”
ALL construction MUST BE DONE ENTIRELY BY THE STUDENT WHO SUBMITS THE WORK. Students must
demonstrate their skills and growing proficiency during in-class sewing. The instructor reserves the right to
refuse to accept work that has not been observed as significantly constructed in class or during instructor
supervised help sessions. Appropriate sanctions for offenders include failing the assignment, failing the course,
or recommended expulsion.
Class Attendance and Lab Use
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1. Attendance, preparation, and participation in this course is mandatory. Absences for department
authorized internships, religious holidays and certain university functions (like an athlete participating
in a game/match) will be excused, but students are expected to notify the instructor at least two weeks
prior to the planned absence and work due may be expected to be turned in before the planned
absence. An incomplete will only be given for documented illness or death in the family, which occurs
after the course withdrawal date.
The instructor reserves the right to drop a student from the course after three (3) absences. The
instructor reserves the right to drop a student from the course who does not have the text and
recommended essential equipment by the 4th day of class.
2. Students are expected to attend class with all materials needed for the assignment and with
relevant/assigned readings or homework completed before class begins. Failure to come to class on
time with materials, preparation and assignments completed results in no meaningful work being
done. Lateness, lack of preparation, and leaving class early will be treated as an unexcused absence.
SEE ABOVE on absences. Class time is to be used for assignments in this class.
3. If a student misses class or arrives late, it is the student’s responsibility to get the information from
Blackboard or a fellow student.
4. Assignments will not be accepted late or incomplete. The instructor will provide feedback on
incomplete or late projects, but they will be graded as a zero.
5. Please no food in the lab other than a water bottle with a secure lid. Please eat in the hall or lounge.
6. Cell phones are to be turned off, put away and not used during class. Please do not wear earphones in
class. Earphones interfere with students benefitting from “teachable moments” during class. There is
NO REASON for any student to use a cell phone or other electronic communication device during class
since handouts are distributed in class. Students using cell phones or having them out during class time
will be asked to leave the class, not return, and will be counted as absent for the day.
7. If your sewing machine malfunctions, please try to fix it by re-threading the machine, checking the
position of the needle, and making sure the bobbin and case are correctly placed. NEVER turn the
tension disks or speed control of the machine. If you cannot remedy the situation, notify the instructor
and leave a note on the machine. Please do not leave a machine in a non-working condition.
8. Put your personal belongings in your locker. Space is limited and students in APD 200 will need to share
lockers. The department is not responsible for materials left in class. Do not leave work on dress forms.
9. Please use a magnet on UNCG machines if you need a seam guide. NO TAPE seam guides on machines.
(Do not use magnets on electronic machines. Magnets will damage an electronic machine.)
10. If you iron interfacing on the ironing board covers or the irons, you will be responsible for replacing the
cover and cleaning the iron. Use a press cloth under your garment, and on top (next to the iron).
11. Please DO NOT enter the sewing lab without instructor permission while other classes are in session.
Preliminary list of final projects:
All students will complete one or more of the following projects
using an instructor approved jacket pattern consisting of set in sleeves, collar, an appropriate choice of seam
finish completed in a satisfactory manner. All jackets must be constructed from woven fabrics, (no knits, no
fleece, and no 100% polyester.) Additional patterns may be recommended during the semester:
Sewing Workshop e-shrug (FREE - copies will be distributed to all students who want this pattern.)
Sleeves run short so plan to make adjustments. (Maximum credit 180/200 points, or 90%).
e- shrug
Note: The E-shrug is the easiest jacket. The pattern comes with easy adjustments for longer sleeves
and a longer jacket body. Hems and edges must be finished with an approved method if this pattern is
used. Must be constructed using woven fabrics. The maximum grade/points possible is 180 of 200
points.
A little Somethin’ Jacket – Almost as easy as the e-shrug pattern. (Available from Studio Stitch)
(Maximum credit 190/200 or 95%)
Sewing Workshop Liberty shirt/jacket (Available from Sewing Workshop at a special price to UNCG
students.) The instructor will order the patterns directly from Linda Lee, designer.
Liberty Shirt – Sewing Workshop. Wonderful techniques.
Vogue 8539 – Any version, this is the jacket sample made in upholstery fabric.
Vogue 8654 – Katherine Tilton Version A only.
Vogue8693 – Marci Tilton Version A only. Woven fabric only. This was the favorite pattern fall 2013.
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Vogue 1263 - Donna Karan – Challenging, but a very beautiful jacket. Carefully select size of pattern,
purchase extra fabric since pattern pieces are very large and the jacket seems to run small. NO SAMPLE.
NOTE: Lots of markings that are essential for successful construction. All seams are flat felled on the
pattern. However, it has been beautifully made with regular seams that are serged and top stitched.
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Vogue 1246 – Lynn Mizono – Either version. Instructor will make alternate suggestions for construction
techniques of collar, finishing sleeve armhole, and cuffs.
Kwik Sew 3293 – Copies are available to borrow if you cannot find this at Hancocks or JoAnn’s.
Butterick 5053 by Connie Crawford - This pattern is now discontinued, but I have a few for students to
purchase and it can be obtained on e-bay. Also available: www.fashionpatterns.com $12 plus shipping.
Sew and Share: We will allocate a few minutes at the beginning of each class for students to share (show
and tell) sewing projects on which they are working independently (outside of assignments for other classes).
Local Resources and TIPS:
Sewing Machines – Students will use machines provided in the sewing lab. Students will have access to the
sewing lab after class hours. However some students may want a sewing machine for personal use. A sewing
machine purchase is a major investment and a quality (not necessarily expensive) machine can last a lifetime.
Students considering purchasing sewing machines are encouraged to visit ALL the local dealerships for thorough
demonstrations on machines. Research the availability of basic instruction, service and additional lessons
before making such a major purchase. An expensive machine does not make a person sew well. Practice does.
Saving Money: Students are encouraged to register for on-line and mailed coupons from JoAnn’s and Hancocks.
Some stores give student discounts. Almost all equipment and supplies will eventually be on sale or available at
significant discounts using coupons. The first week of class, students may share some basic equipment but
students must have their own Juki supplies by the 4th day of class for the sewing exam. Students without the
text, Juki equipment and basic sewing supplies will be dropped from the class. Materials recommended for
this class will be used throughout your Apparel Design studies and for personal sewing. Keep your receipts in
case you need to make returns.
Materials and Equipment:
Sewing Machines:
The sewing lab has three models of sewing machines: Juki Model # DDL8300N, Bernina
1080 and Singer Model # GC500 or GC550. Students are expected to have their own feet, bobbins, bobbin
cases, and needles for the Juki machines. Students rotate in assignment to Juki, Bernina and Singer machines
and are expected to master Juki, Bernina and Singer machines. Students will not need or use personal machines
in class. Feet for the Bernina and Singer machines will be on loan during class. Lost Singer and Bernina
attachments must be paid for by the student using that machine. All students must have a pack of needles
compatible for Bernina Singer machines. See required Juki supplies and sources at the end of this syllabus.
Equipment and Fabric: (Available from stores like JoAnn’s and Hancocks and many sewing specialty stores)
* indicates this item is optional, but useful. Sign up on line to receive sale notices. Underlined supplies are
required.
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Cutting Materials (Text, p. 24-25)
Fabric scissors (Do not skimp on this investment. Gingers come on sale 40-50% off, and can be
sharpened at the factory in Greensboro on Edwardia Dr. ) Gingher 7” or 8” sheers recommended.
Rotary cutter and replacement blades *
Paper scissors *
Small “snips” scissors * Gingher “craft” scissors are excellent*
NOTE: We will not use pinking shears in this class.
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NOTE: Sewing kits that come with thread, scissors, measuring guides, etc., typically contain poor quality
equipment. The thread is not usable in our machines. Therefore, I do not recommend purchase of these kits.
Measuring tools
Measuring guide (Text, page 22)
Quilter’s style ruler or gridded ruler 18” long by 2.” (Text, p. 22) or
Flexible ruler at least 12” long; 18” is even better
Cloth tape measure (Text, p. 22)
Marking tools (Text, p. 23) chalk, marking pencils, etc. soap wedge
Artist graphite pencil size 2B or 3B is excellent. Look in the artist supply sections (regular and
mechanical pencils do not work well for tracing patterns.)
Gum or “artist” eraser
Frixion pen * (also known as erasable ball point pen) used for marking fabrics. (Office Depot)
Fabric marking pens – look in quilting supplies and notions.
Needles, pins, thimbles
Pin cushion – wrist style works well for pins
“Tomato” style pin cushion (used to keep track of your machine needles.) *
Pins – Dritz extra fine (white glass head), Dritz ultra fine (blue glass head), at JoAnn’s or
Clover extra fine pins – probably available at Studio Stitch.
Machine needles – sizes 11 or 12, 14 or a pack of assorted sizes. Get several packages when on sale. I
use Schmetz brand for Singer and my personal machines).
Juki machine needles are purchased with Juki accessories. Machine needles are not interchangeable.
You will need both Juki needles AND Schmetz needles.
Hand sewing needles (Text, p. 20) I use “Betweens” for hemming.
Thimble * – Test the size before you buy it – you want a snug fit.
Other
Seam ripper – get one that fits your hand comfortably and has a sharp point. This is your best friend.
Point turner *(Text p. 28-29)*
Set of very small screwdrivers (Essential to change needles in machines and sergers.) In notions
Tweezers - essential for threading sewing machines and sergers.
Hefty Jumbo Slider plastic bags (any brand will do, but you will want some of the 2.5 gallon size), to
organize your sewing projects and materials.
Container(s) to organize sewing materials. (A plastic grocery bag will not do.)
Lock for classroom locker (APD 200 students share lockers.)
Notebook or folder to store class documents and handouts. Cell phones and electronic devices for
retrieving documents are allowed in class.
Fabrics, interfacing, and thread
Muslin fabric for sewing samples. Purchase at least 3 yards initially. I recommend 100% cotton, 40-42”
wide, permanent press, if you have that option (about $2.99/yard). 40-42” wide muslin is easier to
handle than wider fabrics, less wasteful than 36” wide.
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Woven, fusible interfacing - light to medium weight or tricot knit light weight interfacing – Buy at least 3
yards. READ the end of the bolt carefully before you purchase. Keep the plastic sheet of instructions
pinned to the interfacing. Please NO non-woven interfacing – it distorts the appearance of the fashion
fabric. Acceptable interfacing products include: Pellon brand SF101, SK135, EK130. Do NOT Purchase:
Pellon 950F; 931TD; 906 F; 910; P447; P 45; 380; 541; 911FF;
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Thread: Purchase two different colors of good quality machine sewing thread – I prefer Gutterman and
Mettler, available at Hancocks, JoAnns, and sewing specialty stores. Do not use old thread; it can shred
in your machine and cause problems. Matching thread for your final project(s). See Text, p. 31-33.
“Tracing cloth.” Look for Pellon brand, #830 – get 1 – 2 yards initially. Located with interfacings. You do
not need the kind with grid lines. That is useful for advanced classes.
Three – 7” zippers (not invisible style) any color. Sometimes referred to as “skirt zippers.”
Fashion fabrics for final project – Please use woven fabrics for this class. It is easier to learn to sew on
100% cotton, linen, rayon and wool fabrics. Blends with cotton, linen, wool, rayon and rayon also work
well for this class. 100% polyester fabrics, polyester/nylon blends, napped fabrics (like velvets and
corduroys), stripes, and dominant designs present unique sewing challenges and are discouraged. See
“Fabrics” Text, p. 51-72 for an excellent review of fabrics and appropriate uses. Some upholstery fabrics
can be great for jackets – but be careful if you choose this.
Note: Additional supplies will be necessary as the semester progresses. These will be announced with the
various assignments and may include the purchase of additional fabrics and notions.
Buttonholes –if your final project needs buttonholes, I will bring my electronic machine to class and students
may use it during class for stitching buttonholes on their final projects.
Supplemental resources to increase your enjoyment of sewing:
Threads Magazine and Index: http://www.threadsmagazine.com/magazine-index
Hard copies 2009-current are in the UNCG Library reading room, older issues in the stacks. An EXCELLENT
resource. Highly recommended. Threads magazine now offers “Insiders” an excellent on-line resource on
techniques. Currently available for about $13 to Threads magazine subscribers. Members of the American
Sewing Guild (ASG) get a discount on Threads Magazine.
Marcy Tilton’s blog is interesting to read. Sign up at: http://marcytiltonblog.blogspot.com/
Leah Day, a 20ish North Carolinian, who writes a delightful blog, excellent machine quilting advice, on-line store,
etc. While her specialty is machine quilting, Leah is a real inspiration; she loves to sew. leah@leahday.com and
http://freemotionquilting.blogspot.com/ and http://www.daystyledesigns.com/quiltshop.htm
Supplemental books to add to your sewing library
Bishop Method of Sewing Construction – a classic reference for sewing. Inexpensive, available as a used book;
contains my favorite illustrations for inserting a center back lapped zipper for garments with a neck facing.
Unit Method of Clothing Construction by The Iowa Home Economics Association, Iowa State University Press,
Ames Iowa. Inexpensive, available as a used book. Excellent illustrations and explanations.
Readers Digest Complete Guide to Sewing, a nice compliment to our text. Read the reviews on Amazon to decide
what edition you would prefer. Used in later APD classes.
Fabric Savvy: The Essential Guide to Every Sewer, by Sandra Betzina. Available as a used book. Excellent guide
for fabric characteristics and uses.
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Texas A & M Extension Service, free handouts on sewing techniques and fitting. EXCELLENT RESOURCE.
https://agrilifebookstore.org/publications_browse2.cfm?keywordid=62
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Claire Schaeffer, Fabric Sewing Guide.
Schedule and topics to be covered.
Please review carefully. Students are expected to come to class
with the materials needed, homework prepared and assigned readings completed. In addition to
assignments and sewing quizzes there may be brief unannounced pop quizzes based on the assigned readings.
Jan. 13 (1) Introductory activity, review syllabus, materials needed for next class.
Sewing Skills check list due at the beginning of class Wednesday. Check only those items that you really
do know how to do. This is not a contest to see who knows the most! This helps your instructor plan
the class content. See Bb documents if you need an extra copy.
Jan.15 (2) Let’s Sew! Come to class with your text book and Juki attachments and supplies.
Bring completed Sewing Skills Check List
I will bring basic supplies for today if you have not had a chance to purchase all your sewing supplies.
Bring to class if you have: Non-Juki machine needles, straight pins, thread (any color) bobbins, machine
sewing foot, ripper, scissors, rotary cutter, ruler, and lots of patience. In class everyone will successfully
thread both Juki and Singer machines, wind bobbins, and sew a 4 or 9 patch quilt block.
Read about Sewing Machines Text pages 3-17
Be prepared to identify basic parts of the machine.
Note: Tension and adjustments (page 14-15)
Jan.20 NO SCHOOL – Martin Luther King Holiday. Check for sales on class supplies.
Jan.22 (3) Essential Tools and Supplies and a crash course on textiles and beginning techniques
Read Text, pages 18-29
Tools – What do these things do? How do I use them? Why do I need them?
Fabric Characteristics and Selection. Navigating a piece of fabric (grain, selvedges, cross grain)
Read, Text p. 51-65. 103-108
Bring stapler or glue stick, text, fabric scissors and if you own it, Sandra Betzina’s Fabric Savvy.
Class activity, time permitting. What’s in this fabric? How is it made? Reading labels. Burn tests (p. 54)
Sewing practice time during class as time permits.
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Jan. 29 (5) ALL STUDENTS MUST NOW HAVE THEIR BASIC EQUIPMENT FOR APD 200 including muslin, Juki
supplies, fabric cutting equipment, sewing pins, tape measure, measuring guide, etc. See syllabus for
equipment. All underlined items are considered recommended and essential for APD 200.
Laying out, cutting and marking fabrics using a rotary cutter or fabric scissors in class).
Read, Text p. 104 on grain lines and straightening fabrics.
Text: p. 215 (mitered corners)
In class: Straightening fabrics, sewing a hemmed and mitered placemat. Fabric will be provided.
Bring sewing equipment, including thread in an assortment of colors.
Feb. 3 (6)Work session – complete placemat/edge stitching assignment started Jan. 29. Edge
Stitching/Placemat assignment due the end of class. (50 points).
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Jan.27 (4) Sewing Exam (50 pts.) (including threading both Juki and Singer machines, winding bobbins, sewing
a 9 patch sample doing part on each style machine). You will need your sewing and supplies for the Juki
machines, two different colors of thread, scissors, pins, and textbook. Bring 5 squares of muslin cut exactly 5” x
5”. Additional fabric squares will be provided for you to sew a 9 patch. See Bb for evaluation standards. Your
grade will include evaluation based on your successful (without instructor assistance) threading of each
machine. You will have the entire class period and may leave when finished. Students coming to the exam
without their materials may be dropped from the class.
Feb. 5 (7) Sewing Proficiency Blouse (SPB) pattern to be distributed in class.
Bring to class all cutting and marking equipment including drawing pencil, muslin, pattern making
/tracing Pellon. DO NOT CUT OUT THE SPB PATTERN!
We will review thread and interfacings, fusible products, stabilizing a pattern, making accurate duplicate
“working” patterns, accurate laying out of patterns, reading and labeling your pattern pieces. Use of
rulers, marking techniques, cutting with scissors and rotary cutters.
Read Text p. 105-108, 109-110.
Read: Text, pages 31-35, p. 48-49)
Read: Sequence of clothing construction, Text p. 114-117.
You may find it convenient to cut out two or more sets of each pattern piece since we will use the SPB
pattern pieces and muslins for class instruction and practice.
Trace one set of “working patterns” and bring all parts of the SPB cut out of muslin and correctly
marked by the beginning of next class. Write your name on each pattern and muslin piece.
Feb 10-12 (8 & 9) Directional stitching, darts, side and shoulder seams, facing seams, pressing (SP) (50 pts.)
Bring to class: Working pattern, at least one full set of muslins (see above), two colors of contrasting
thread (one for bobbin and one for top), extra muslin, all sewing supplies, knit or woven interfacing –
light to medium weight (See supply list in syllabus).
In class we will construct a sample consisting of front, backs, with directional stitching, darts, shoulder
and side seams. Due at the end of class Feb. 12
Read: Text p. 119-122, p, 148, Stitching for Control and Accuracy Text p. 149-153
Feb 17-19 (10 & 11) Facings - Combined Facings and Neck Facings, sewing curves and under stitching
Neck facing due end of class Feb. 19 (40 pts.) Combined facing due at end of class Feb. 24 (40 pts.)
Bring to class cut out:
2 fronts; 2 sets of backs (2 of both left and right sides) cut from muslin.
One set of neck facings cut from muslin consisting of front and 2 back neck facing pieces
One set of neck facings cut from interfacing fabric to match front and 2 backs
One set of combined facings cut from muslin consisting of one front and two backs.
One set of combined neck facings cut from interfacing fabric to match combined facings.
In class: sewing on curves, appropriate clipping, trimming, under stitching, applying the SPB facing to
the blouse body using the Bishop Method.
Read: Text, p. 156-163; 209-214.
Bishop Method of attaching facings to accommodate a lapped zipper – in Documents of Bb
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Feb 26-Mar. 3 (13& 14) Inserting a zipper – There are several ways to do this! We will use the “Bishop
Method.” All students will need the split zipper foot that is essential for inserting zippers. Students will
practice on Singer and Juki machines. Students assigned to Singers may borrow zipper feet from instructor.
Read Text, pages 38-40, 243-251
Please note: a back zipper can be inserted before or after attaching the facing. The SPB will have the
zipper inserted AFTER the facing has been attached.
See illustrations: Reader’s Digest Sewing Guide, pages 140-14, p 291 for inserting zipper before facing, or
Unit Method of Clothing Construction, p. 109, inserting zipper AFTER attaching facing.
Review Bishop Method of attaching neck facings and inserting a zipper.
Bring at least TWO zippers – 7” or longer, zipper foot, muslin, SPB front, 2 SPB backs with shoulder darts
sewed, SPB facings, SPB facing interfacings all cut out. Sew shoulder darts of SPB and facings together
before class.
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Feb. 24 (12) Complete Combined Facing due at end of class Feb.24 (40 pts.)
In class: We will practice inserting zippers on muslin pieces and the SPB.
March 5 (15) Sewing Exam (90 pts) Inserting a lapped zipper with neck facing. Bring to class SPB pieces cut
out, including: front, backs, facings with interfacings attached to facings, 7” zipper, two colors of thread, and
sewing materials. In class you will directional stitch the neckline and armholes, sew the shoulder darts, sew
shoulder seams, combine the facing pieces, correctly attach the neck facing to the blouse using the Bishop
Method, under stitch the facing, insert the lapped zipper and tack down the facings along the zipper using hand
stitches. You may bring handouts and text for references. You will have the entire class period.
March 7 – LAST DAY TO DROP WITHOUT ACADEMIC PENALTY
March 10-15 Spring Break – Be looking for fabrics for your final project.
March 17 (16)Hems - machine and hand stitches
Bring to class: at least two sleeves cut out of muslin and correctly marked before class. You may wish
to draw diagonal lines on your fabric to indicate the “front” of your fabric so you don’t get the right and
left and “front” and “back” mixed up.
Bring hand sewing needles, thimble, SPB materials, bring extra muslin for practicing hem stitches.
Read: Text, p.215-216, 229-230
Class Sewing: One SPB sleeve will be hemmed using machine edge stitching (or machine blind
hemming). The other sleeve will be hemmed using an appropriate hand hemming technique. You will
use these hemmed sleeves for the next assignment.
March 19 (17) Easing fabrics/setting in sleeves (80 pts.)
Bring all SPB parts and patterns to class, extra muslin. Have two sleeves cut out and marked correctly
when you come to class. You may use the sleeves from March 17 and the front/back sections from
earlier assignments.
Setting in sleeves, including reading markings, sewing ease threads, using a tailor’s ham (or substitute)
for shaping the sleeve cap, using sleeve roll to press sleeve seams, setting in sleeves, pressing the sewn
sleeve, finishing arms eye of sleeve. (Note, the SPB does not have a finished/serged arms eye.)
Class demonstration and student practice of
Round sleeve into round armhole
Flat setting in sleeve
Modified round/flat techniques
Read Text: p. 177-79.
NOTE: the SPB will have the sleeve inserted using the “round sleeve into a round armhole” method,
Text, p. 178. Setting in a sleeve “flat” as illustrated on p. 179 will NOT demonstrate proficiency for the
SPB though that is a technique illustrated on some patterns and sometimes useful.
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March 26 (19) WORK DAY – SEWING Exam from March 24 to be returned at beginning of class. You may use
this sample (or other samples constructed to date) as part of your Sewing Proficiency Blouse, due March 31.
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March 24 (18) Sewing Quiz (80 pts.) hemming a sleeve and setting it in the garment.
You may use your SPB from February assignments consisting of darts, directional stitching, shoulder and
side seams. You may have one sleeve set in and hemmed before class. Bring one cut, unsewed, but
marked muslin sleeve, to be hemmed and inserted in the bodice during class time. You may press the
sleeve hem before class, but it is to be entirely sewed during class time. The sewing quiz will grade both
sleeve hems and setting in of both sleeves in the SPB. One sleeve must be hemmed by hand. One sleeve
may be hemmed by machine or by using a second style of hand stitching. Due at the end of class.
March 31 (20) Sewing Proficiency Blouse to be completed and turned in at the beginning of class. (200 pts.)
Begin Final Project!
Reading a commercial patterns – in-class small group discovery project.
What do you learn when you read a pattern envelope? Pattern pieces? Layout, Sewing Instructions? What size
pattern should you cut? Read Text p. 75-77, 82-83, 84-87,
Bring your final project pattern and fabric to class. If time permits, we will start pattern layouts. Before class
separate your pattern pieces (do not cut out on the lines) and write your name on every piece. Read the pattern
instructions before class. Put back in the pattern envelope the pattern pieces that you will not need. Put
everything, including the pattern pieces that you will be using in a large zip style plastic bag that has your name
written on it. We will spend class time on how to get started on your final project.
April 7 (21) Start Jackets and Review Seam finishes
Bring: 8 muslin pieces 5 x 8”, jacket pattern, fabric, interfacing, any working patterns, hand sewing needles and
regular sewing supplies.
Read: Text: 156-161
Read: Collars, Text p. 186-190.
April 9, 14, 16, 21, 23, 28, (Class # 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27) Final Project (180-200 pts.)
DUE April 30, 3 p.m.
We will cover seam finishes, including serging, and other finishing details during these class periods.
I will bring my sewing machine for students to use during class, to make button holes on their jackets.
April 30
Reading Day - NO CLASS –Jackets due at 3 p.m.
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Monday, May 5, 3:30-6:30 p.m. Final: Students will prepare and submit a 2-3 page typed summary and present
a 5 minute talk on highlights of what they have learned, challenges, and future goals. Students may show
samples and projects from their semester’s work and personal sewing to support their presentation. This is NOT
a review of the syllabus! I will bring food for a light supper.
Plans are underway for the UNCG bookstore to supply the basic Juki sewing machine equipment.
Juki machine equipment can also be purchased directly from Bill’s Sewing Machine Co. Phone: 828-397-6941
Fax: 828-397-6293. Juki Model DDL8300N. Orders can be placed by telephone and charged on personal
credit cards. Ask the operator for “parts department.”
Students MUST have their Juki parts by the 4th day of class.
ITEMS IN BOLD ARE ESSENTIAL FOR APD 200.
Other items are optional, but will be useful for students with advanced skills and students planning to move into
APD 250 and higher level classes.
Hinged foot
#24983
Split Zipper foot
#40322SH
Bobbin Case Assembly
#S03245-0-01
New Style Bobbin
#40264NS
(I recommend students purchase 2 or more bobbins)
16X257 #80 SCHMETZ (needles)
I recommend students purchase at least 2 packs
OPTIONAL ITEMS
Invisible Zipper Foot
#S518
(Essential for APD 251 and higher level classes)
***Right Hinged Cord Foot
#12435HN
***Left Hinged Cord Foot
#31358HN
***Sheering foot
#S950
***MT 1 (molded Teflon foot)
(for sewing on knits)
*** students working on advanced projects may find these attachments useful
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Needles:
16X257 SES #80 Schmetz (ball pt.)
16x257 SES # 70 Schmetz (ball pt.)
16X257 #70 SCH
16X257 #90 SCH
16X257 #100 SCH
1/16” width
3/16” width
5/16” width
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***Edge guide foot attachments -