OregonLive.com, OR
03-28-06
Stakes are high when picking the perfect cuts
Experts share their top 10 tips for selecting a steak that satisfies
CANDY SAGON
Diet trends come and go -- this month it's low-fat that's taking a beating -- but one
thing remains certain: Americans still love their red meat. We each eat an
average of 67 pounds of beef a year, and that hasn't changed for a decade,
according to the newest government figures.
What has changed are some of the choices we have at the supermarket when
we want to cut into a juicy steak for dinner.
Randy Irion, director of retail marketing for the National Cattlemen's Beef
Association, says the industry is putting more effort into marketing beef to
consumers. That means more beef with fancy "branded" names such as
Rancher's Reserve and Certified Angus and Natural Beef, plus more of those fullservice glass cases, where customers can pick out a specific steak.
Unfortunately, say some meat industry experts, the guy behind that glass case
might not know much about the meat he's selling. Most of the meat-cutting has
already been done at a centralized location and then shipped "case-ready" to
supermarket and super-center chains across the country, says Joseph Cordray,
a professor of animal science at Iowa State University who works closely with
retail meat departments.
"A market may have one guy who knows how to cut meat, but most of the others
(in the meat department) are not highly trained," Cordray says. "Real butchers
are a dying breed."
The exceptions are some upscale or specialty chains, or at the scattering of
traditional butcher shops. There, it's easier to find someone to give you expert
advice about the different types of steak, how to cook them, even recipes.
We asked some butchers, as well as other meat experts, what you need to know
when choosing the perfect steak. Here are their 10 top tips:
Pick out your steak like you pick out your clothes. Look at each one carefully. If
you want it to be juicy and tender for cooking on the grill, you want lots of little
white flecks of fat in the meaty part (it's called marbling). The flecks melt away
during cooking, adding to the meat's flavor. You also want it to be an even
thickness (if it's thinner in some parts, it will cook unevenly). If you're buying more
than one steak, try to find cuts that are all close in size so they finish cooking at
about the same time.
Look for thick cuts. Avoid steaks that are less than an inch thick, says Bruce
Aidells, co-author of "The Complete Meat Cookbook," because they're too easy
to overcook. Be careful when buying steaks in packs -- it's often difficult to get a
side view to see just how thick they are.
Don't trim that fat. Yeah, yeah, we know. It's hard to break years of being
admonished otherwise. But some butchers say the fat on the outside edge of the
steak helps keep the steak moist and hold its shape during cooking. It also
enhances the meat's flavor. Once the steak is cooked, you can trim off any
excess fat before serving.