Wine Appreciation
from Grapes to Glass,
Lecture 8: Spain &
Portugal
Dennis Swaney,
Karin Limburg
Iberian Peninsula spans latitudinal range of ~37°N-43°N
(about from Syracuse to the mouth of the Chesapeake Bay)
Major Iberian wine regions
Regional Overview
• Much of Spain and Portugal is hot and dry with relatively low
grape yields
• Spain alone has more land planted in vineyards than any other
country (~3 million acres in 2005)
• Both countries have experienced major changes in the wine
industry in the last 10-20 years, resulting in major improvements
in quality (changes in winemaking style in response to changes in
demand).
• Modernization of Portuguese wine industry in the last 10-15
years has been dramatic
• Iberia is unique in the relative importance of fortified wines in
its wine industry (sherry and port)
http://www.delongwine.com/iberian-wine-map.php
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Iberian Climate
Some Iberian Wine History
Four climatic zones, of which three  major wine regions
• Atlantic coastal climate. Average temperatures here are 9ºC in winter and 18ºC in
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• Continental Mediterranean climate of interior central plateau (mesetas). Low
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summer. This is the wettest part of the peninsula with annual rainfall between 800-1500 mm,
brought by successive depressions from the Atlantic, particularly in autumn and winter. Also
cooled by effect of coastal upwelling.
temperatures in winter, with temperatures under -15ºC not uncommon, and under -20ºC regularly
occurring. Summer an average 24ºC. Annual rainfall under 400 mm (16”/yr). Heavy snowfalls in
winter. As the Castilians say "nueve meses de invierno y tres meses de infierno." "nine months of
winter and three months of hell."
• Mediterranean climate proper. Eastern and southern coast of Spain and much of the
Guadalquivir Valley . A lot of sun. Average temperatures of 11ºC in winter and 23ºC in summer.
Annual rainfall between 250 mm and 600 mm.
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• Alpine climate (Pyrenees and other highlands)
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Local topography effectively creates combinations of the above in specific areas
•
Wine history in Spain predates that of many other areas of
Europe (eg France, Germany) by millennia
Grapes have been cultivated in Spain from 3-4000 BC
The Carthaginians cultivated vineyards for wine in Spain until
defeated by the Romans in the Punic Wars (2nd century BC)
Under Roman rule, Spanish wines were distributed throughout
the Empire
The fall of the Roman Empire didn’t mean the end of wine
production in Spain – wine was still being made when the
Moors defeated the Visigoths in Spain in 711 AD and
continued throughout the period of Islamic rule until the region
came largely under Christian control in the 12th century AD
1143 – Portugal formally recognized as independent of Spain at
the conference of Zamora
http://www.iberianature.com/material/spainclimates.html
Sintra, Portugal. Source: wikipedia
More Iberian Wine History
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13th Century AD - Wine is being exported in quantity to England from
Spain and Portugal
14th – 19th Centuries - Portugal enjoys cordial relations with Britain (&
its colonies) beginning with Treaty of Windsor (1386)…Port and other
regional wines become very popular in England and the colonies
Mid 19th to early 20th Century – Diseases! powdery mildew (~1850s)
and phylloxera (Malaga,1878, Rioja, 1901). Phylloxera overcome by
grafting Vitis vinifera grapes onto resistant American rootstock…In
Catalonia, the post-phylloxera period coincides with development of
sparkling wines (cavas)
20th Century: Fascism, then death of Franco in 1975; joined the EU in
1986  economic improvements which have benefited the wine
industry, via modernization and increasing demand for better wine
Spanish wine labeling
Spanish wine labels contain vintage and aging information
• Vino joven ("young wine") or sin crianza - the wines have very little, if any, wood
aging. (These wines are often meant to be consumed very young - …within a year
or two of their release.
• Vendimia or cosecha (vintage year) – for this to appear on the label, a minimum
of 85% of the grapes must be from that year's harvest.
Most common aging designations on Spanish wine labels:
• Crianza: red wines are aged for 2 years with at least 6 months in oak. Crianza
whites and rosé must be aged for at least 1 year with at least 6 months in oak.
• Reserva: red wines are aged for at least 3 years with at least 1 year in oak.
Reserva whites and rosé must be aged for at least 2 years with at least 6 months in
oak.
• Gran Reserva: wines typically appears in above average vintages and with the
red wines requiring at least 5 years aging, 18 months of which in oak. Gran Reserva
whites and rosé must be aged for at least 4 years with at least 6 months in oak.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spanish_wine; Tom Stevenson, The Sotheby's Wine Encyclopedia, 2005
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DOs and DOCas
DO - Denominación de Origen (Designation of Origin)
6 Degrees of DOs and DOCas
Denominación de Pago (DO de Pago) - Individual single-estates with
an international reputation ( there are 6: Dehesa del Carrizal,
Dominio deValdepusa, Finca Élez, Pago Guijoso, Señorío de
Arinzano, Prado de Irache)
• Part of a regulatory classification system primarily for Spanish
wines (similar to the French appellation controlee) but also for
other foods (the Portuguese system is similar)
Denominación de Origen Calificada (DOCa): top-quality wine regions.
• Some regions (eg Rioja (1925), Sherry (1933)) already had
systems that preceded the full system…
Vino de Calidad Producido en Región Determinada (VCPRD) – less
• DO is part of the EU QWPSR system (Quality Wine Produced
in Specific Regions), adopted by Spain in 1986
Vinos de la Tierra (VdlT) - "country wine" areas which do not have
• Six levels of quality classification…
Vino de Mesa - Table wine, production of which has been in decline in
(there are only 2: Priorat and Rioja)
Denominación de Origen (DO) –mainstream quality-wine regions.
stringent regulation with specific geographical origin.
EUQWPSR status but which may use a regional name.
recent years.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denominaci%C3%B3n_de_Origen
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denominaci%C3%B3n_de_Origen
Some major wine regions (& DOs) of Spain
http://www.decanterwines.co.uk/mapPopup.php
The Oxford Companion to Wine, Jancis Robinson
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Some major native grape varietals of Spain
Red:
White:
Tempranillo
Viura
Palomino
Garnacha (aka Grenache)
Muscat
Albariño
Graciano
Verdejo
Tempranillo – the quintessential
Spanish grape!
Monastrell (aka Mourvedre)
Red varietals:
Tempranillo is a major grape of Rioja DO but is planted widely
Garnacha is a major grape of Peñedes DO, but planted widely
White varietals:
Albariño is grown in Galicia (NW spain) and is the main grape variety
used in the Rías Baixas DO
Verdejo is often blended with Sauvignon Blanc in the Rueda DO
Palomino is used extensively in Sherry wines
Muscat is used in some sherry and dessert wines
Hugh Johsnson’s Pocket Wine Book 2011
Some major wine regions of Spain
Some major wine regions of Spain
Rias Baixas (=“low rivers”) – 3500 ha planted
Principal varietal: Albariño (over 90%)
perhaps introduced by
Cistercian monks in 12th century (?)
 Mostly alluvial soils
 Atlantic coastal climate (cool due to
coastal upwelling)
 Not a coincidence that these wines go
well with seafood

 Albariño
The World Atlas of Wine, Hugh Johnson
Rioja – 50000 ha planted

Principal varietal: Tempranillo
(also garnacha, others)
 Bordeaux influence, includes aging of reds in oak
 Clayey, chalky soils with high iron content
(“rioja”=red)
 Continental climate (long hot summer, cold winter)
The World Atlas of Wine, Hugh Johnson
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Some major wine regions of Spain
Some major wine regions of Spain
Jumilla – 32000 ha planted
 Principal varietal: Monastrell
(also tempranillo, garnacha, others)
 Escaped phylloxera until 1989
– significant vineyard upgrades since then
 Dark, limey soils
 Climate intermediate between dry central
plateau and sea influence of coast
Ribera del Duero – 12000 ha planted

Principal varietal: Tempranillo
(also garnacha, cab. sauv., others)
 Bordeaux influence, includes blending with French
varietals – produces many long lived wines
 Silty-clay sand and marly, chalky soils
 Continental climate, low rainfall
The World Atlas of Wine, Hugh Johnson
Some major wine regions of Spain
The World Atlas of Wine, Hugh Johnson
Some major wine regions of Spain
Penedes – 26000 ha planted

Known for both its red wines and its cavas (sparkling
wines …”cava” = cave )
Range of varietals planted: Reds in lower elevations
(garnacha, tempranillo, cab. sauv., others) Whites in
higher areas (Macabeo, Xarel-lo, German & French
varietals)
 Poor quality, well-drained soils
 Mediterranean climate

Jerez – the home of sherry wine
 Principal varietals: Mostly Palomino
(some Pedro Ximenez and Moscatel)
 More below
The World Atlas of Wine, Hugh Johnson
The World Atlas of Wine, Hugh Johnson
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Some major native grape varietals of Portugal
Red:
White:
Touriga Nacional
Alvarinho (aka Albariño)
Tinta Roriz (aka tempranillo)
Malvasia Fina
Gouveio
Touriga Francesa
Viosinho
Donzelinho
Baga
Espadeiro
Tinta Barroca
Esgana Cão
Red varietals:
Touriga Nacional – most widely planted; a major port grape; makes good reds
Baga makes highly tannic wines, which age well (“garrafeira wines”)
Most of the others are blended in port to achieve balance
Some major wine
regions of Portugal
Vinho Verde – 70000 ha planted
Principal varietals: Alvarinho, Trajadura,
several other whites and some reds
 mostly white wines
(vinho verde = “green wine”)
 shallow granitic soils of low fertility
(increasingly, terracing and fertilization is
being used)
 Atlantic coastal climate

White varietals:
Alvarinho is grown in the Vino Verde (green wine) region south of Galicia
Malvasia Fina is used in white port and Douro table wines
Most of the others are blended in white port to achieve balance
http://www.2basnob.com/portugeuse-wine.html
Some major wine
regions of Portugal
Douro – 40000 ha planted

Principal varietals: Touriga
Nacional, Malvasia Fina, many others
 The main region of Port wine
 Otherwise, mostly red wines
 Steep, terraced vineyards
 Shallow soils
 Continental climate
The World Atlas of Wine, Hugh Johnson;
http://www.catavino.net/blog/portugals-wine-demarcation/
The World Atlas of Wine, Hugh Johnson;
http://www.catavino.net/blog/portugals-wine-demarcation/
Some major wine
regions of Portugal
Dao – 20000 ha planted
 Principal varietals: Touriga Nacional,
Tinta Roriz, Encruzado, many others
 Mostly tannic reds – increasing
emphasis on Burgundy style wines
(not too heavy)
 well-drained, shallow schist and
granitic soils
 Continental climate
The World Atlas of Wine, Hugh Johnson;
http://www.catavino.net/blog/portugals-wine-demarcation/
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Some major wine
regions of Portugal
Good Vintages in Spain
(according to Hugh Johnson)
Alentejo – 13500 ha planted
 Principal varietals: Abundante (garnacha),
Alfrocheiro Preto (many others)
 large area of flat plains
 heterogeneous soils (clay, granite,
limestone, etc)
Mediterranean climate
2004 – great in Rioja & Ribera del Duero
2005 – excellent in Navarra
2007 – in Penedès, “textbook
year…considered one of the best in the
past 50 years”
2009 – incredibly hot everywhere. Will
produce good vintages in Rioja and R. del
Duero
The World Atlas of Wine, Hugh Johnson;
http://www.catavino.net/blog/portugals-wine-demarcation/
Tasting Whites from Spain
and Portugal
wineeconomist.com
Sherry, Port, and Madeira: fortified wines
Spain:
Pazo do Mar
(Galicia, white, $14)
Portugal:
Porrais (Duoro
Valley '07, $17)
P
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Wikipedia
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Sherry: soils, grapes, and
climate
The Sherry Triangle
Albariza soils –
very chalky, the
best for
producing sherry
The World Atlas of Wine
.jerezcar.com
Two other main soil types
• Barros: dark brown, high clay
content, organic matter, less chalk
• Arenas: yellowish, sandy soil with
about 10% chalk
www.cellartours.com
Albariza soils, because of
their high chalk content,
hold moisture well in hot
weather. Ideal for the
Palomino grapes
The World Atlas of Wine
Pedro Ximenez and
moscatel grapes
grown in these soils
Wikipedia
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The climate in the sherry region is
characterized by “brutally hot” summers –
the grapes thrive and become sweet
Here, Palomino
grapes are laid out
on mats to sweeten
even more in the
hot sun, to produce
high sugars so the
wine is strong and
stable
Sherry vinification and fortification
Once the
fermentation is
complete, the wine is
classified and
fortified with
destillado, a fortifying
brandy.
Here is a famous
bodega (Bodega
Domecq)
Wikipedia
The World Atlas of Wine
The key to sherry aging:
the solera system
Wikipedia
New
wine is
added
Soleras consist of 3- to 9-barrel
systems – the longer the system,
the more the aging
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Sherries are classified from driest to sweetest
• Fino (“fine”) – palest, driest
• Manzanilla is a special fino from Sanlúcar de
Barrameda
• Amontillado – aged first under flor, then
exposed to air to oxidize, becomes darker
• Oloroso (“scented”) – even more
aged/oxidized, darker, more alcoholic (18-20%)
• Palo cortado – a rare variety that shares
characteristics of amontillado and oloroso
Harvey’s
Bristol Cream
is a famous
one, made in
Bristol,
England
Cream
sherries are
sweetened
with Pedro
Ximenez
or
moscatel
wine,
usually
starting
with
oloroso
www.thedieline.com/pentawards08/category_luxury/
Ports and Portugal
Lonely Planet
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Traditionally,
barrels of port
were shipped
down the Douro
in these special
barcos rabelos,
workboats that
plied the river,
shooting the
rapids
The World Atlas of Wine
Now, the Douro is dammed, so the wine
travels by road or rail to Oporto
Wikipedia
It’s also mostly made from red grapes –
treading the grapes increases the
extraction. Traditional method, but now
mostly mechanized.
www.wineanorak.com/introducingport.htm
Rio Douro (in Portugal) =
Ribera del Duero (in Spain)
Port wines, like sherries, are fortified.
But UNLIKE sherries, the fortified wine
is added to stop fermentation in its
tracks, to keep the wine sweet.
The port grapes
are produced in
the Douro Valley
Like sherries,
ports are aged
wines. Here
are “lodges”
or shippers’
warehouses,
where the
wine rests.
Ancient terracing
The World Atlas of Wine
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The World Atlas of Wine
Lodges typically have their own cooperages,
making 522-L barrels called pipes. Ports are
aged from 2-50 years in pipes.
Once every few years, growing conditions are
so good that a vintage year is declared. These
ports are not blended across other years.
Most ports are blended
to obtain desired
qualities & consistency
Ferenc Kalmandy
The two main
types are
tawny and
ruby
www.portugaltravelguide.org
Madeira
These tend to be
rare and expensive
The World Atlas of Wine
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There are several types of
Madeira wines, all of them
fortified
Madeira was very popular in
the American colonies –
Thos. Jefferson used it to
toast the signing of the
Declaration of Independence
Madeira is a
Portuguese island off
northern Africa
Tasting Reds from Spain
and Portugal
Spain:
Dacu Tempranillo,
R. del Guadiana '09
($12-$13)
Portugal:
Quinta de BonVentos '08 (Lisboa,
$9)
References
Johnson, Hugh. 1985. The World
Atlas of Wine.
Simon & Schuster, New York (newer
editions available)
Robinson, Jancis. 1994. The Oxford
Companion to Wine.
Oxford University Press, Oxford, UK.
Zraly, Kevin. 2008. Windows on the
World Complete Wine
Course. Sterling Press, New York.
(and see various websites noted on
previous pages)
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