9332 Dress and Textiles November 2007
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DRESS AND TEXTILES
Paper 9332/01
Theory
General comments
The quality of answers this year was good in general, with very well answered questions in Section B and
Section C. In most cases textile processes were very well known, and very clear sketches were included,
with clear annotation.
In the Section A questions, there was confusion between fibres and fabrics. It is difficult to award marks
where answers are not clear or where they are muddled. Candidates should read the question carefully to
ensure that they are answering correctly. Examination revision classes could be used to encourage
candidates to read questions very carefully and to help them identify the key elements of a question. Some
candidates find it useful to underline the key words in the question and to use these words to plan their
answer. They can then check that their answer covers the relevant knowledge and that they have done what
the question requires.
A few candidates still continue to write out the question before answering. This is to be discouraged.
However, a brief plan, based around the key words, at the beginning of answers can be helpful to the
candidate and the examiner.
It is clear that in most cases, candidates were well prepared for this examination and Centres are to be
commended for this.
Comments on specific questions
SECTION A
Question 1 was the most popular question in this section.
(a)
The production of silk was very well known, with diagrams included in many cases and concise
answers given.
(b)
Properties of silk and viscose were usually well compared, although a few candidates wrote a list
without fully discussing the two, as asked for in the question.
(c)
There was some confusion in this part question. The term ‘regenerated’ was occasionally muddled
with ‘recycling’ and some candidates wrote that polyester is a regenerated fibre. In a few cases,
‘cotton/polyester’ was given as an answer. The most common appropriate answer was a
comparison between viscose, with either polyester or nylon. Very few answers gave specific
examples of fabrics, as asked for. In the answers which gained highest marks, candidates were
able to give specific examples of clothing and household items. Table linen was a popular choice
for household items.
Question 2
(a)
The answers to this section were wide-ranging, from excellent answers gaining full marks to those
where fibres were given but actual fabric names (such as gabardine, poplin, etc.) were not
included. The answers which gained highest marks also included the correct percentages of fibres
used.
(b)
There were some very good answers to this question with many gaining high marks. Where
candidates followed the part questions closely and discussed each of the three fabrics in turn,
answers were particularly clear.
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Only a very few candidates chose to answer both Question 1 and 2.
SECTION B
Question 3 and 4 were popular, with many candidates choosing to answer both.
Question 3
(a)
The most popular outfits consisted of a top and skirt or top and shorts/trousers for a young child,
usually a girl. The illustrations were well sketched and clearly labelled, as asked for in the
question. Many were coloured in. The answers which gained high marks included a back view as
well as front, and listed the colour fabric(s) and pockets clearly. The favourite choice of pockets
was patch, in-seam and hip pockets. Many answers gained full marks.
(b)
This was usually well answered with justification of colour(s), fabric(s), pockets and style clearly
stated. Many answers gained full marks in this part question.
(c)
There were many excellent answers to this section. The most popular choice of pockets was
patch, hip and in-seam. Sketches were accurate, showing seam allowances and stitching details
very clearly. Diagrams were usually well labelled and the best answers included reference to
mitred corners on patch pockets, trimmed/layered seam allowances and pressing, in addition to the
correct order of working for the correct stages.
Question 4
(a)
Many excellent sketches were presented with both front and back views shown, which were well
labelled and usually coloured. There were some imaginative designs and use of colour. Fibre
content was usually included but fabric names (such as poplin, gabardine and sailcloth) were not
always included.
Popular choices for ornament/decoration included appliqué, and hand
embroidery. Fastenings chosen included a zip fastener or buttons and buttonholes.
(b)
This section was usually well attempted.
(c)
As with Question 3 answers, there were some excellent sketches which were detailed and showed
stitching lines clearly and accurately. The many types of different hand stitches are well known, as
are working diagrams. Added ornament usually meant piping, beads and sequins, and their
working was also well known.
(d)
Cleaning the cushion cover was well answered with points such as stain removal and hand or
machine washing being well described and high marks were often awarded here.
SECTION C
Questions 5 and 6 were the most popular choices, with Question 7 attempted by only a minority of
candidates.
Question 5
(a)
The most popular choice was to draw three tops and sleeve styles, which included the full range of
styles. Variations of set-in, raglan, kimono and dolman were well known. Sketches were clearly
labelled and seam lines accurately sketched in most cases. Full marks were often gained in this
section.
(b) (i)
Shortening the sleeve pattern was sketched correctly and the correct order of alteration given. The
lengthening and shortening line was known in the majority of cases and the best answers included
the alignment of the side seam, after the alteration had been fixed in position on the pattern piece.
(ii)
The assembly of the sleeve was well answered and many candidates chose to describe a set-in
sleeve with easing or gathering. Some candidates omitted the named fabric so could not gain full
marks, even if they had correctly shown the required steps of sleeve assembly and insertion.
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9332 Dress and Textiles November 2007
(iii)
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The finishing method for the sleeve edge varied, but popular choices included a plain hem or a
binding. There was some confusion about the correct hand stitch to use in the case of a plain hem.
Slip hemming would be the preferred stitch for a plain hem, whereas hemming would be
appropriate for a bound hem.
Question 6
(a)
A variety of different garments were chosen for this question, including dresses, tops and skirts.
Popular choices for methods of fullness were darts, gathers, tucks and pleats. Many accurate and
well-labelled sketches were included although specific names of processes were required for full
marks. For example, ‘pleats’ on a skirt would need to be labelled ‘knife pleats’ or ‘inverted pleats’
to gain full marks.
(b)
Answers varied, with some candidates answering with fibre names only and not giving specific
fabric names, as asked for in the question. For example, ‘polyester/cotton’ would not be
acceptable, as this is only the fibre content. If the fabric name was also included, for example,
‘polyester/cotton lawn’, credit could be given. There were many answers where appropriate points
were explained and high marks gained as a result.
(c)
Popular methods of fullness control were gathering, darts and pleats. The steps needed to work
these processes were well known and many candidates gained high marks.
Question 7
This was the least popular question in this section.
(a)
This part of the question was not usually well answered. A list was often given, with little or no
explanation or assessment of the range of tools and equipment available. Scripts which scored low
marks, had not always considered all the factors asked for in the question and even discussed
sewing machines, which was clearly not required. The range of items could have included cutting,
marking, measuring and stitching tools and equipment.
(b)
This part of the question was answered more successfully, and where a range of examples had
been presented for the use of tools and equipment, candidates scored higher marks.
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DRESS AND TEXTILES
Paper 9332/02
Practical Test
General comments
Please detach this form, complete it and submit it direct to your Team Leader as soon as you have finished
your marking. It will help in writing the published Report on the Examination. Your Team Leader may be
happy to receive this information by email provided the same questions are answered, and may prefer you
not to wait until the end of your marking providing your comments are based on the work of a substantial
proportion of your scripts.
1
Which questions, if any, proved particularly easy or difficult for the candidates? Do you think this
affected the overall difficult of the paper compared with previous years?
Question 3
(c)
The preparation and hem finish of the lower flounce.
(e)
The application of the lower flounce and finishing of the facings.
I do not think that this has affected the overall difficulty of the paper compared with previous years.
2
Please comment on the overall performance of the candidates.
The majority of the candidates attempted all sections of the question paper within the permitted
time limits. Results were variable and influenced by lack of accuracy in some processes.
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Please comment on the responses by candidates to individual questions, even when the comment
is ‘generally well answered’. Please make your comments in question number order and consider
the following for each question were relevant:
the main points and qualities that characterized good answers
the main weaknesses in candidates’ answers
common errors or misconceptions in answers
any ways in which particular groups of candidates were disadvantaged
Question 1
Shopping lists were generally well produced with attention to detail. Occasionally alternatives were not
given. Reasons for first choice of fabric varied, with some candidates addressing suitability, colour and
design, cleaning properties and handling qualities, whilst others concentrated on different aspects of
suitability which then gained fever marks.
Question 2
Marked in Centres.
Question 3
(a)
Shoulder seams were well made and pressed but some neatening was inadequate.
(b)
Curved seams were usually stitched but not clipped or well neatened. Pressing was not uniformly
to centre back/centre front.
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(c)
The quality of machine stitching observed was good and seams well pressed, although neatening
could have been better.
(d)
The width of hem on the flounce was often variable. Candidates who employed two rows of
stitches produced a better result. The side edges of the flounce required a heat hem too, in order
to obtain crisp corners.
(e)
Interfacing was generally well managed on front and back facings.
overtrimmed and narrow and edge stitching was variable.
(f)
The flounce was sometimes well applied and finished, but too many varied in depth, with poor lines
of stitches and clumsy neatening. Clipping of the seams was rarely seen. Under stitching of the
neckline too was rare, although the facings were often hand stitched across the shoulder seam and
base of the facings.
(g)
Buttonholes were often well stitched and suitable for the size of the button. A few buttonholes were
too tight, but these were few poorly finished buttons.
(h)
Marks were awarded according to the account of work successfully completed and the overall
impression of this piece of the candidate’s work.
(a) - (h) Refers to the mark scheme and not to the question paper.
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Any other comments, which might include reference to the following matters:
any questions that failed to achieve the intended differentiation
the use of time by candidates
any common misinterpretations of the rubric.
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Some facings were
9332 Dress and Textiles November 2007
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DRESS AND TEXTILES
Paper 9332/03
Coursework
General Comments
The work submitted by the candidates was generally of a good standard and well presented, although some
of the submissions were disappointing. The packaging of the items was appropriate. Each item submitted
should have a label with the candidates details securely attached; most of the work was correctly labelled,
but in some Centres the labels were not attached to the items.
Section 1 General
The fabrics chosen by the candidates for the items submitted were of a good range and suitable for the
appropriate garments and household items. The variety of sewing skills and processes demonstrated by the
candidates is often of a high standard and pleasing to see. It is important that photographs of the candidates
wearing their outer garments are included so that the fit of the garments can be seen, most of the candidates
do meet this requirement there are still some who do not. The appearance of the work is good and the items
have been made and handled with care.
It is expected that sketches and design work for the household item should be included in the folder; this is
always interesting to see. There are still candidates who do not meet this requirement.
Section 2 Outfit
The garments submitted in this section, jackets, skirts, trousers and various types of tops were generally of
good standard and demonstrated skills in both hand and machine sewing. There were fewer garments
lacking in accuracy, although there were sleeves that were not smoothly fitting and some of the linings were
slightly tight. Care should be taken in the selection of interfacings especially for collars and front facings of
jackets in some of the items the wrong weight of interfacing had been applied, and in a candidates had not
used interfacing at all in there jackets. The improvement in this section is pleasing and it is always a
pleasure to see the care that has been taken in making the garments.
Section 3 Undergarments
The care and consideration for the choices of fabric and style in this section is always well done. The
garments were generally well made and finished neatly, although there were some candidates that omitted to
stitch the folded edge of the elastic casing. Trimmings such as lace, ribbon and braid may be used as well
as embroidery but not instead of. It is pleasing to see that more candidates are meeting the requirement of
including either hand or machine embroidery on their garments, and in some cases both techniques were
demonstrated.
Section 4 Household
This is always an interesting section with a wide variety of submissions reflecting the candidate's personality,
items such as wall hangings, tablecloths, baby playmates, curtains. The work was generally of a high
standard and covered a wide variety of techniques all well demonstrated. It is a requirement of this section
that design work is included and it is disappointing that not all candidates include sketches and visual ideas
in their folders, but the design work that is submitted is generally of a high standard.
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Section 5 Folders
(a)
The folders were generally well presented and pleasing to read. Aims and justification of the
choices were well done and detailed.
(b)
The response to this section does not always meet the requirements; candidates do not always
explain how a problem was solved. There are still candidates that do not respond to this section,
but the candidates that do meet the requirements of this section achieve a good standard.
(c)
The experimental work required for this section is generally well done and relates well to the items
being presented. It is interesting to see the experimental work and processes that the candidates
carry out to achieve the decisions that lead to good results in the items they submit. The sewing
trails should always relate to the garments submitted. There were a few candidates that did not
include any sewing trails in the folders which is disappointing. The design work presented was
often interesting and reflective of the candidate's individuality.
(d)
The candidates that assessed their items individually meet the requirements well, but there were a
number of candidates that did not include the assessments of each items which is disappointing.
(e)
It is pleasing that the majority of candidates are including an overall evaluation of the course work
as a whole, but there are still candidates that do not meet this requirement.
The presentation of the folders reflects the time and care taken by the candidates in their work and are
always interesting to read and handle. Some of the folders are colourful and decorative which is pleasing.
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