Chiltepines
by Kevin Dahl
Recently, I’ve made sure my evening dog walks take me past
two particular yards where I can check the progress of two
special plants. I’m pretty sure the homeowners have not
realized what is growing by
their sidewalks. One plant is
tucked
underneath
a
struggling citrus tree; the
other is at the base of a palm
tree surrounded by flowers.
As the small white flowers on
the plants morphed into peasized green fruits, which are
now
turning
red,
I
recognized both as wild
chiles, unbidden and planted
inadvertently, I suppose,
by birds.
The plants look just like
ones I’ve seen in the wild
near the Arizona-Mexico
border at Pedestal Rock
Canyon in the Tumacacori
Mountains, about 50 miles
south of Tucson. Tumacacori
is derived from a Native
American name for “place
where wild chiles are
gathered.” Here grows the
wild chile, widely known in
the bi-national Sonoran
Desert by its Mexican name,
chiltepin, and treasured for its
heat and distinctive taste.
Found as far south as Peru,
chiltepines in the wild reach
their northern limit at
Pedestal Rock Canyon.
Recognizing this unique resource, the U.S. Forest
Service established the Wild Chile Botanical Area in 1999. It
spans 2,500 acres and includes as many as 700-1200 wild
chile plants any given year. The wild chiles are usually found
growing beside larger trees and thorny shrubs. Under the
protective canopy of these “nurse plants,” chiltepines find
shelter from winter freezes, summer desiccation and
damaging solar radiation.
The continuing study of wild chile ecology in this
botanical area has helped scientists answer the important
question of why chiles taste so hot. Chiles, say the experts,
are hot basically because they
are “for the birds.”
With their bright red
color and presentation above
the plant’s leaves, wild chile
fruits catch the attention of
birds in search of a nutritious
meal. Mockingbirds, thrashers, cardinals, pyrrhuloxias
and house finches harvest
the ripe red chiles and
benefit (as do humans) from
the chile’s rich supply of
vitamins A, C and riboflavin, as well as protein and
fiber. By eating the chile
fruit, birds help the next
generation of chiles get
started. The seeds go
through their short intestinal
tracts and are lightly scarified
(etched) by digestive acids.
Then, when the birds
eliminate, the seeds are
deposited (with some water
and fertilizer) where they
most
like
to
grow:
underneath nurse plants.
Both chiles and birds benefit
from this harvesting and
planting arrangement.
Birds are not bothered
by the chile’s heat; other
animals are not so lucky.
Although not toxic, chiles pack a loud warning to rodents,
whose longer digestive system would likely destroy the seeds.
This hot encounter convinces almost all mammals not to eat
chiles, leaving more for the birds—and for people.
Chiltepines are called the mother of all chiles, not for
their heat, but because they are the closest living relative of
the earliest form of domesticated chiles. Thousands of years
ago, indigenous people started growing wild chiles in their
Photographs, Carole Topalian
Hot and Wild Native Chiles
Edible Phoenix
Winter 2006
5
gardens and saved seeds from the biggest, best-tasting fruits
for planting the next year. These selections slowly changed
the plant, so that now the wide diversity of chile varieties can
be sweet as bell peppers or hot as jalapeños.
By learning to enjoy the pleasure/pain of the chile bite,
people have become the chile’s greatest ally. Because of this
red-hot love affair, humans have been responsible for
dispersing chiles around the world.
In northern Mexico, the chiltepin harvest is a big
business and tons are exported yearly to the United States.
Chiltepineros (wild chile harvesters) hand pick in the wild
from late September to early December. Prices vary, but can
reach $72 a pound.
Chiltepines are slightly stronger-tasting and hotter when
they are freshly ripe from the plant, but dried and stored well
they can keep for years. One or two pods added to a pot of
beans or sprinkled over a plate of eggs is enough for most of
us—although one self-proclaimed “chilehead” did tell me
that he used to eat the entire jar of chiltepines that was a
standard table spice at his family’s favorite Mexican
restaurant in Yuma; the waiter would have to bring more for
everyone else. Green chiltepines are sometimes pickled.
Either pickled green or dried red chiltepines can be added to
salsas for heat and flavoring.
Chiltepines have other traditional uses: an antioxidant to
preserve dried meat, a treatment for acid indigestion, and a
method to wean babies from breast-feeding. Another use I
hear a lot about is tricking someone into eating it, often with
the encouragement to “try this sweet berry.” As the birds
know, it does look a lot like a desert hackberry or wolfberry.
[Note: Some other desert red “berries” are poisonous, by the way,
so it is imperative that you know what your are doing before
attempting to eat what you think might be a wild chile either in
the wild or from someone’s yard.]
Last summer, I took Scott Simon of National Public
Radio to Pedestal Rock Canyon, and unfortunately we didn’t
have enough time to find any wild chiles, which had decided
to hide from us in the thick vegetation from the monsoon.
Luckily, I had some dried chiltepines with me, and Simon
had the classic reaction to their pungent heat. He choked up,
his face went flush, his sinuses ran, and his eyes teared up.
(You can hear the results of his encounter on the NPR
website: www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=5046579).
Scott was experiencing a feeling like that expressed by
18th century missionary Ignaz Pfeffercorn, who wrote in his
journal of his encounter with wild chiles:
“After the first mouthful the tears started to come. I
could not say a word and believed I had hell-fire in my
mouth. However, one becomes accustomed to it after
frequent bold victories, so that with time the dish becomes
tolerable and finally very agreeable.”
6
Winter 2006
Edible Phoenix
G r o w i n g C h i lt e p i n e s
Chiltepines grow like any other chile, or much like tomatoes,
except that their seeds are harder to germinate. Some gardeners
treat seeds with the food enzyme pepsin or a weak vinegar
solution before planting, to replicate a bird's digestive system. I
know one gardener who feeds chiltepines to chickens and
plants their poop! Start the seeds indoors, in a sterile potting
mixture, and keep warm (ideally 85 degrees F) and moist. Use
bottled water, or if using tap water let it sit out over night to
remove any traces of chlorine. Once seedlings are sprouted,
provide a source of sunlight and weekly feedings of liquid
fertilizer. A week or two before planting, seedlings should be
“hardened off ” by placing them outside in a sheltered place for
a few hours, leaving them a little longer each day so they
become used to outside conditions.
Chiltepin plants are perennial, so place them in your garden or
landscape accordingly. They thrive in a location sheltered by
larger shrubs or trees. Transplant them in the early evening or
on a cloudy day, and water immediately, to help avoid
transplant shock.
Chile First Aid
The chemical in chiles that warms your mouth is an acidic oil
called capsaicin (the chile extract that is used in self-defense
sprays and in ointments used to ease arthritic joints). Because
it is not water-soluble, a glass of water won't extinguish a
mouth on fire. To administer chile CPR, a victim should drink
some milk or eat a slice of bread, a tortilla, corn chips, ice
cream, or anything that has oil in it. Alcohol will also work,
and tequila is the medicine of choice for some. When handling
hot chiles, be careful not to touch your eyes (contact lenses can
be ruined) or other sensitive areas until you wash thoroughly
with soap. To be on the safe side, use disposable gloves when
handling the chiles.
Fire and Ice Crea m
A unique method for experiencing the chiltepine's flavor while
taming its heat is to sprinkle a couple of crushed pods over your
favorite vanilla ice cream.