STRATEGY FOR ORGANIZING HOME-BASED WORKERS Case Study of the Ready-Made Garment Workers of Ahmedabad by MIHIR BHATT SUBMITTED DEPARTMENT ON THE TO THE OF URBAN STUD I ES AND PLANN I NG IN PARTIAL FULFILLMENT 15th OF MAY 1987 OF THE REQUIREMENTS OF THE DEGREE OF MASTER IN CITY PLANNING at the MASSACHUSETTS INSTTTUTE OF TECHNOLOGY May 1987 c Mihir Bhatt 1987 to M. I. T. permission to reproduce The author hereby grants in whole or in part. thesis copies of this distribute Signature of ____ Author Department of UrtrAn Certified Accepted by and to Studies and Planning -_ -_ - - -- _ _ _ _ -- -Lkiuren Bent(on Thesi s Supervi sor & Plianning Prof.. of Urban Studies Assistant by Prof . PhiV C1 ay Chairman, Deartment Gra uate MfstcINSTITUTC2 OF TECHNOLOGY 1 JUN 0 8 198 7 LIBRARIES Committee ABSTRACT This study is about the struggle of around 1.,500 homewho found a way based garment workers of Ahmedabad, India, wages and better working conditions by for higher to fight joining a trade union, the Self Employed Women's Association my field based on is study part This three (SEWA). interviews of home-workers, union organizers, union leaders, part is about The first state officials. and employers, The homeworkers. organizing strategy for its SEWA and second part shows in great detail how these homeworkers were the response of the was organized into a union and what state. the findings about relevant lists The third part get. workers that for organizing homewrkers; strategy or gan i z ed aro.ind shared -i nterest i n work-related i ssues, that various trade and occupational groups sharing a common collective bargaining is and that collaborate, interest against the employers as well as the regulatory institutions It also emphasizes that the strategy for of the state. action of union's struggle organizing homeworkers is a joint which is carried out by of cooperatives, and development This strategy increases actions. direct, legal, and policy state policies and helps the of homeworkers in visibility interests over business state counterbalance claims of public resoLIrces. the state' s vi ew on the There are conclusitons about what they for not as SEWA formation of organizations such potential is in asserting their their what for but are. as organi.zations state should see these The demands. reducing the burden of its regulatory and welfare agencies, and as exampl es of talents, entrepreneurial encouraging innovative experiments. have Made SOME part, I At the end of the third recommendations for the state about providing democratic and trade union and cooperatives. setup combining autonomous should be provided with infrastructure. Such organisations credit. and training. The state should take actions to stop outright evasions of the regulations as well as expand the scCoe and reinterpret existing labor and industrial laws. ACKINOWLEDGEMENTS to thank I would like of gratitude, deep sense With a advisor, my thesis to be who agreed Benton, Prof. Lauren to put th:is thesis valuable guidance gave and generously Her together. research will writing and independent suggestions about Prof. always be useful to me in the future. precious comments very provided reader, Lisa Peattie, my I must thank both way I should look at my thesis. about the patience and encouragement. their of them for of SFWA Jumani Usha and Ela Bhatt, Renana Jhabvala, deep their shared and time their with generous very were women self-employed organizing of issues the into insight Jetunbibi, Bilkhisbano, Karimabibi, Arvindaben, workers. days spent ben Dhangauri and M:irai, Vinaben, Taraben, garment the among efforts organizing their recalling Labor The them. of all thanks to Many workers. Sahib, and his staff were candid and Commissioner, Babbur I views and outlook on the home-based workers. shared their deeply appreciate their contributions. very helpful in Harrison were and Prof. Prof. Dunlap them for their thank I must stages of my work; the initial class on Tendler's Prof. the thes:is proposal. comments on in useful evaluating organizations and projects was very and selectino relevant points from the pool of information interview material. Susan Matteuchi, Eric Begleiter, Moana Appleyard, and a much needed audience for my have provided Penny Czarra I thank them for their patience. monologues about my work. Parents are difficult to thank enough for all done to support and encourage me.. they have And so are Amee and EBM. CONTENTS I NTRODUCT ION PART I Employed Women's Association The Self Home-Based Workers Worker's Issues The SEWA Strategy PART 11. 16 20 II The Setting Issues of Garment Workers The Struggi e PART "73 III Findings, Conclusions, and Recommendations References and Bibliography 60 STRATEGY FOR ORGANIZING HOME-BASED of the Ready-Made Garment Case Study Ahmedabad WORKERS Workers of INTRODUCTION meager are home-based provide soc:iety and to The care. health thinks of Labor as stitching their not consider does Department work, or credit protect to and no institutions and employment wages their for raw dependent on middlemen There are no laws and sales Materials products at their sell workers who and are rate piece These women 'conditions? working better wages and get higher to night do at late r=amshackle houses their in oarments stitching living making a women illiterate and What can poor them as mere housewives. Those unacqi..iainted there women would probably feel women could do around 1,500 such Ahmedabad, bring India, to was very little the conditions. But change their home-based found about some change of these with the struggle garment workers in and try to a way to fight in their circumstances by joining a trade Assoc i ati on (SEWA. by and for homewor kers i n other c i ties unorganized ( Peattie economy ); 1979 us what 1s many more such organizations of on sector of the informal in workers to workers Indi a. of studies few are There tel to protect be taken Women's what has been done union trade a into could actions My study of these unorganized home-based organized get Self Employed the union, even fewer urban studies have been done on the process of organizing itself. The ( research emphasis has been more on the definition IL- 1972 ), linkages of characteristics Very organized sector. improve to workers Weeks 1975 for wages, their benefits, legal what question of actions could be taken to improve light organizations population on the of this that is state's large currently regulatory insti tuti ons. or policy their lot. study addresses some of these questions some and Neither has any attention been ). the given to by these and ( Portes 1981) ( Peattie 1979) working conditions ( done the has been attention little been has what given to with sector unorganized the 1978 ), and ( Papola My and throws response to the portion of the not covered by its The findings those interested hi gher wages, may study to a trade as act can conveying, fc'rmul ating, for representative useftul. how in workers unorganized of be also interested government departments union the mainstream and recognition in The economy. increased better working c onditions, bargaining power, for homeworkers organizing in to information may provide use-ful It two groups. be useful to study may of this a and implementing state policy. major The did these different groups and locations, make their audible to policy laws or live from 'hand victimization and no union and no workers bargain trade unions felt Without makers? how did job security, How did they visible and their problems work hard get organized to state? claim the attention of the my scattered :in women, How study are: examined in have I questions to these workers, mouth', sub-contracting? specific employer, for higher wages? at a loss, any protective stand against When there was how did the When the other what strategy did SEWA adopt to organize these women workers, had never even been out of who many of whom their own neighborhoods been allowed to make any major economic or had ever own decision about their in observers of in with the leaders of about SEWA strategy adopted the members of the to the the effectiveness of the and the workers' response, SEWA about the garment views on what was done for about their and history workers, of organizing these issues organizers of SEWA about I home-based garment I talked at great length Ahmedabad. workers crucial and infrmed of struggle the visited Conducted extensive the active participants of I questions, and 1987 of January interviewl specific these To answer SEWA struggle? to this state respond did the How families? also studied some of SEWA's records, and to i ndustry and and by them. reports, and news periodicals. In addition, Commissioner their changing and workers, I also and two interviewed of his att-itudes about the and implementation and employment policies. staff the in Labor members about towards home-based and SEWA's efforts asked them formulation I work organizing them. influence of SEWA on of the state's labor the pay homeworkers, finished garments at abot.t bus i nessmen organizing first major stri.uggles in This part also tells the strategy that adopted in organizing the homeworkers. city The second part of the study analyses the the thi s garment ready-made issues of the socio- their workers, garment ready-made background, and industry, study the workers. how shows to their study lists for conclusions formation o-f such as SEWA. about homeworkers. how With these of the The third part of th:is efforts. important findings organizing and the major homeworkers were organized and the response state also It setup. and their c onditions, has The Employed Women's Self the home-based the organizing. SEWA SEWA' s parts. three into organizational its Association and economic to response divided is describes part describes I talked to these users. therir the efforts. study My and sell to margin to other profit large final to or traders them piece rates, a cloth provide capital, who invest businessmen some of the talk to chance to had a I alSo the about the strategy also It state should draws view organi zations of unprotected workers, In this part I have also made some recommendations support and unorganized for protect workers the state homeworkers int general. about in how it particular can and PART I THE SELF EMPLOYED WOMEN'S ASSOCIATION which SEWA, Women's an is lanquages, in Tservice' means of acronym the many Indian Self Employed SEWA is a registered trade Association. union of 22.,000 poor self-employed women working in in SEWA the surrounding villages. of the Women's Wing of out 1972, Association (TLA). the 1st union until was founded in Labor the Textile SEWA worked within the TLA as a 1981, of May, and since then ( SEWA Annual has been an independent union 1985) of Ahmedabad and the city economy of the informal Report. - ideology Gandhian major source of of peaceful inspiration for SEWA. struggle is goal The a is negotiations without antagonism between workers and owners. This better working final her also meains that conditions are higher only a wages and part of the goal of development of the worker and life. With ooals of SEWA are : this background, his or the immediate 1. of work To make the self-employed the women workers vis:ible. 2. To increase their income. over the income control To increase their fair in the family and the society. Based on these goals, scale Smal I selling goods such Laborers as providing vegetables, laundering, small the SEWA, c onstr uc tion, such as (incense sticks), Agarbattis foot-wear, furniture, see the efforts of SEWA Later-, in in this organizing food study we a part type of home-based workers. Though all o1f cooking, products making pr 0ducts, and handicrafts. of this eggs, and agriculture. cigarettes), garments, fruits, catering, for labor Home-based producers Bidis hawkers petty traders, selling various services and skills including cleaning, transportation, vendors, and garments. household goods, will organized its who are constituted of: members, or SEWA has three types of workers are members the membership comprises only a portion of total number of the workers in the various info:-rmal its and occupations trades hofmeworkers are organiZed, mass of a small Even if the trades group or occupation. same the of all organize to impossible and even needless workers SEWA has found it organizing, efforts of many In the economy. of they can influence with the right type of strategy, and thus, market the labor supply of the entire of the collective harcaining and benefits bring protection the workers. to all Each member pays 5 fee union the to to representatives Secretaries, President, 22 the the General Committee, Executive of and Board The members. one allows the members turn The one union has and around 7 admini strators is electoral this to come to of 150 to the two Vicea team and Process that members of the trade groups, some ongoing struggle, selects elect Secretary, General organizers It Board 25 in and a President. accountants. membership elects who the membership as rupees engaged in the leadership positions in the uniion SEWA is national in level, organizing its own federation at the called SEWA Bharat, bringing the issues of its to be effective members and the other workers into the and Allied Workers and of the ILO invariably makes a visit in and Geneva of SEWA (ILO) and Garment The Director General (ITLGWF). Worker's Federation is in (IFPAAW) Leather, Text.ile, International 1984 of Plantation, Organization Labor International in (IUFW) This has increased the influence 1.985. on the Federati. on International Agriculture, in of Food Workers Union International the wi th af f i I i at i on 1 ong-awai ted found SEWA has level, international the at Similarly, poJicies. national the in -fo-uS to SEWA when he India. Setup The Organ:izational has SEWA which wing, economic development own cooperative the wings:: four bank; the trade union; the includes SEWA's and the research trust; and study wing. The trade union takes Lip the complaints of the members, help organizing of bargaining the and new trade groups, workers carries negotiations for and with the out collective the issues of work, wages, thirteen cooperatives kerosene vendors, garment other It trades. for workers in training as bainbo 0 such for work and new ski lls such as al so Orovides It and radio repairing. patch-work printers., and provides and introduces pottery making, block mriakers, also upgrading existing skills train:ing wing and development economic The runs and working conditions. supplies of raw materials like bamboo an d cloth Many of the various cooperatives and trade groups. marketing and to self-employed women to make t he illiterate the accounting of the SEWA and related which provides czredit Cooperative Bank, services and accounts in hold shares SEWA members market The opportunities. for most of is bank these a handy of saving place for these women to develop a habit own accounts. and being able to handle to their The SEWA Trust provides resources such as seed money to set up a outlet market funds for for the It new activities. i nsurance, support, maternity and health-care. to cooperatives, and security coverage to its life room cooperative. also start an and initial provides welfare members in benefit, the form of widowhood surveys and research The of the condi t:ions carries these and out workers, runs a mob ilizing at aimed publications of situation, their documents wing study two favorable support of the middle class and the policy makers. WORKERS HOME-BASED of Many the (cigarette) Agarbatti bags, match-sticks, roll papad, in many of SEWA are home-based (incense shell locations in villages sticks), and electric items. cotton pods and hand print cloth. surrounding make who those including producers embroider members the city and have working conditions. Socio-Economic Conditions 16 Bidi paper They also and ground nuts, They are scattered of Ahmedabad and the dissimilar work and it Jhabvala as 10 to 12 season Js weeks, making them and pushing money lenders. month, less than rupees a by the state. declared wages wages are also less than those of other street and vending the formal in labor. manual These workers in The illiteracy higher than 707. which is rate of these workers is big hinderance for them more than 3 to 6 give up to 130 minimum the ( When the any work difficult to debt not does work rupees a day, the survival their perpetual into Their they are without ebb, its work as long hours to day in the season. hours a at from 4 They toil 1. 1986 their combine work with production domestic and household These action. the workers have found that reports of course its out chart and workers to understand of home-based the condition on surveys and reports out manv SEWA carries a their attempts to gain access to welfare institutions regulatory and of the state. Home-based production is children labor involving sharper eyes in the with parents' supple bodies and production process of goods like carpets and hand looms. go to school also a form of family These children do not and therefore end up taking over their occupation as a source of employment. The Employers of home-based workers range -from The employers regular businessmen well-established laws a1bor welfare and social the on where from workers it is for production. then receive the finished product to traditional to order provision o-f to employers have warehouses raw materials, shops and in work security. Often these home-based put: out' save and many liarge Often men . companies manufacturing avoid mi ddle and contractors sub- to store to distributed The employers sell in other Depending upon the market and outlets. the production process may or practice, may not involve sub-contr acting. The common most entrepreneur is the small trader who lives in the same area with the workers. comes from the same community and has his He also family and relatives workers. Often he based worker in workers are working for him has worked the past. directly In as home-based himself this economically, as a home- situation, the socially, and to very difficuIt This makes it conditions. living working and and resigned about their are fatalistic Many on the employers. dependent even politically organize them. Legal Protection laws Representation and Dispute Act, and many wages, higher workers, and workers event, and work-site in by finding workers institutions. in definition of these laws makes it to fight their case. collects exceptions examples of An In to the rules inclusion of some of the regulations the example is board established for the health, the to either set a precedent by SEWA tries a case or filing employers to their better working conditions, very difficult for SEWA this the Factories Act, However, and social welfare. work, Industrial other provisions of the Labor Laws can be applied to these provide should and and regulations. the Act, Wages Minimum The many under can be covered workers these found that SEWA has or the the special Bidi workers housing, and education faci lities. welfare welfare to provide ToYlicy Protection the policies related to technology Changes in or do not tend to take home-based industrialization on their of for industry Bidi The automation employment. and incomes, the This has an adverse effect account. workers into rendered ex:ample, thousands of home-based workers unemployed. WORKERS' ISSUES Employer Related What is disadvantage example, Issues to the workers ( Jhabvala 1986). form the in cost lot a saves of workshop as goods are produced in this itself health of the workers and workers. their small But homes. buy the tools or production. in the But the the machines on is causes is employer the advantage the employer overhead to anw a by a For having no building or a the homes of the hazardous to the overcrowding in The employer does not have to equipment required for the workers have to invest money the borrowed 20 loans from the not do employers a give but the high rents machine, Often the compensate -for the cost of the machine. in oil like These costs are not consi dered result, a as the wages and, orices of these materials affect directly. Thus, low wages, they get job insecurity, the earnings workers' employers, the in rise the workers are that the clear is it subsidiz ing almost threads in and products food making satitching garment s. in for some of the raw materials to pay workers have is Sometimes the wages. their in considered for the workers hig e>pense This spend a lot tools and maintain these machines and on repa:i rs. also have to The workers lender-s. private money and in return and no welfare benefi ts. protected treat them way below against care, it so higher many under a like holidays, labor wages, and have and housing. important to of provide employers the labor, pay them no protection no bere-fits of healthTherefore SEWA finds bargain for and meanwhile provide soci al. servi ces on the other hand. 21 or unionized organize them to wages on the one hand, them better laws, captive pool minimum injuries, not are homeworkers Because Tr-ade Union Related Issues traditi The much such to reach workers because there is away wages the pulling down workers. Often these trade on the that of activities would only this any sometimes even a ban homeworkers, or difficult to many locations, have dissimilar jobs, a common interest in The same factors led homeworkers and movement. The trade grounds that they are not share bargaining. without on the organize homeworkers and do to carry on welfare. unions of the organized sector find it scattered in not realizing allow employers protection and found to be unions are sub-contracting acti vities the e-xploitative providing employment the the organized sector of restrictions and arguing for no clear employer- trade unions also see The snatching India. about negative attitude employee relationship. these workers in homeworkers a rather have they Often trade attempt to have not done unions onal bring them in collective SEWA to organize the mainstream labor THE STRATEGY kinds of All three employers, but Policy Action. only at welfare laws and Often these WORK and understanding of work and work conditions of sector of the urban economy. are in the informal in these actions Also all union trade of form the on the from the so different workers the the formal of workers which is sector, industrial and based are definitions The state. in defined are they as WORKERS and concepts of the at are directed the of and not the regulatory at institutions the actions policies. are directed actions also Action, Legal Direct Action, actions: three as comprising strategy its SEWA defines struggJe or cooperative development. Di rect Acti ons: the employers are in and The direct the form There negotiations. actions againist marches, of strikes, also are actions such as providing an alternative development supply of raw materials to home-based workers from one of the SEWA cooperatives employer over to the' reduce workers. the control of the The direct actions against the welfare institutions are in the form o.f presentations and helping to increase access o-f the workers to institutions such as hosp i tals and banks. Legal Actions: employers are in indi v i dual The legal the vi cti form of iwi zati on actions against the filing court cases of and gett i ngC informal transactions registered or documented. separate labor grievances examples insti tut and of legal the welfare tripartite actions for workers' are boards against the state ions. PRo icy Actions: wider against and related to women, and others. SEWA Sel f-Emp I oyed, Participation bodies, for tribuinals Demands larger Secretary in has given SEWA Anasuva and We The their many national and the Upper a to the class strggle publications, labor boards, chance mouth pi eces. seminars, planning having the House of to SEWA Seneral Indian Parliament influenc:.e government policies and their implementation. 24 the workers of issues to poverty, are in are aimed The policy actions There is SEkWA follows. are the starting no final is It strate9y for the work-related point of the struggle. actions lead to the legal the policy orgAniing actions. t ak en si mul t aneousI Y. Often act.ions. that issues that. The direct and in ti..irn to these actions have to be PART 11 THE SETTING established in trade 1.415., on the trade route between the Delhi, capital, Artisans produced economic activities. them face through or consumers of However, role arti rural sans home-based in the industrialization in city Industrialization reached the part of the 18th century, to -race to vendors. the latter displacing a large number home-based and the producers. has continued its production in city-economy and for exports textiles these goods at home and sold the The items for domestic use and manufacturing of hand-loomed were major Khambhat. sea port, and the hand-crafted of Ahmedabad was India, in Like many other cities rules spite of and regulations related to it. Today 5 mills in there are 64 textile and most of the ?00,000 textile of the Textile Labor workers are members Association 26 the city, (TLA). The rest of the workers have formal employment in other than an estimate of Ahmedabad sector informal the that suggests However, workers., these of number on the figures any collect not do departments government other the and census The Sector. the informal of are part or textiles, industries constitutes around 45 to 60% of the work force of Papola, employment growth in sector ( Mehta, this in was absorbed sector workers play a significant role in form one Ahmedabad and economy of of the informal the informal Thus, 1962). M. 70% decade, last the In 1978.). ( the urban of the largest constituencies of voters. and many reports, direct involvement From its of SEWA estimates that 40% Workers women. workers are these in and labor pullers. produce Many others sell them on their own; their work called piece-rate is focLsed on workers who sell laundrymen or cartgoods at home and they are called own-account Those who get piece-rate wages home-based workers. for like sector sector include this the petty traders and vendors, or their service informal from employers or wholesalers are home-based workers. the This study home-based piece-rate garment workers or homeworkers. The Ready-Made Garment Industry can be the modern factories, goods in industry producirg remaining home-industry s..pplying garments arid the in for the middle-and-] ower-income people and capi tal of make a living the c:ity, which of the remaining to are home-based. to a find an occupation to 1986). Hegde There one third in piece-rate 3,000 workers, of which 904 Each employer has a minimum max.mum of and are middle-men provide They around producers are two-thirds subcontractors. employment 1986, the ready-made garment businessmen 100 and sellers or ( Acharya around i nfrastructure, or managed to homewrkers have the city Without any state villages. surrounding the support are Ahmedabad export-oriented into the upscale, divided in industry The ready-made ga rment of 25 75 workers working for him ( SEWA Report on Garment Wrkers, 1986.). Production Areas and Products Pr-oduction of areas of the city, garments is spread over many and each area specializes in 28 a certain type of garment. produces Chaniya and Takiya produces only ready-made and Sarangpur in Because of communal Khol in Shahpur Revadi Chaniya, Chaddi covers); and and Chindi ( the western states is spread are divided into of India). type of work it scattered ir, know the rates, problems of many areas its interest workers in Production lot workers therefore, products, skills, other areas. throughout in the are also they do not conditions, and Because these various locations dissimilar jobs, 5EWA has had to focus organizing in The a ind, ( hand- garment production are as and varies a involves. workers are scattered and possess Thus, Chipa ( people from the and Marvadi over many Darivapur fans and rags). many groups such as Hindu and Muslim, community), the and diverse religious and the workers printer area. the Chaniya; strong traditions, Bazaar (hand bags), frocks; (mattress Khol india's the ready-made area deals deals Sindhi Theli covers); produces (shorts) area (long skirts), (pillow Bazaar The efforts on defining collective bargaining. Process a shared at ills the type and size of to according are mostly men, who cutters, fees, retainer various products, it garments are so, the or to the workers or the factory inspectors. it thei r persons employed, their which wages, women and a half time businessmen get paid. places stitching, of or They and a day. bus fare use their production,. pay for the and child many as two as in employers, and attending to cleaning, stitch workers may dozen garments have to spend employment, Besides the domestic duties af cooking, rearing, of at piece-rate on a paid are basis. fortnightly weekly or of duration Thus, the number document to difficult very is they record book; a to themselves and never show record book keep the into it next day on the businessmen make an entry in The up the cut stitch and the finished When the shop to returned 200 ruipees as to pick home, back it take atany in the piece-rates. women workers come to the shop cloth, The the cloth cut addition to in fabric. the are pnaid and patterns, designs and sorted out is This cloth rate. a bulk t he t ext i 1 e f r om rupees thousand 50 worth about of cloth full a lorry bring businessmen The These workers to go to the and wait long hours to own use their electricity crowded homes as own machines bills For of the their resignation and fatalism -for devel oped have homeworker s these emupl oyer s, provided dependency on their and political economic, social, and Having suffered fromh generations of wages. t he 0i 1 own are None of these materials threads. in use and mach.ies stitchiCng working their towards condi tions. Piece-Rates on the margin of profit make on their employers unannounced workers who have been in Their or two. have some are homeworkers, in the the among least homewor k er s . The all around 60% decade or the husb ands of such as them provide sometimes the last but often they sk-i 3. s piece-rate workers trade for suf-fer from a generati on the trade for The majority. work. alternative and 30% are own-account sewi ng-rel ated which embroidery, but wages, incomes are moderate, other ately for a subcontractor Around lay-offs. Approx i products. higher relatively are paid and businessmen the the homeworkers work 10% o-f paid are dependent homeworkers are The rates of the who have been two, three and earn types of these homewor ker s or abor casual. are mostly emp'loyed in some other of Petty trading or driving auto-rickshaws odd job seasonabl y or ar e they Fr e ruent Iy on Streets. sometimes cofripletely unemployed. dozen, arcordinq dozen of are made at the rate of I are made at the rate of 6 and skirts to 10 hours of hard of 8 spite In dozen for per rupees 5 and Chaddi s larger frocks. rupee a dozen, and the the items to the size of Frocks are stitched at the rate labor involved. 3 r-upees per seven rupees per to three from vary Rates to 7 rupes. work, the workers do not earn more than 12 rupees a peak season. day in to 120 rupees a month, than These unorganized piece-rate definition s, leaves their for. such as workers makes exclusion di sm.i ssal sector, of many of those work the accidents minimum wages half the state of 240 rupees per month.. lower out these wages average unemployment the seasonal the low seasons and Moreover, workers in vendors. Factory the workers vulnerable and health welfare and social the Furthermore. in included not are in other also are rates Act; this to unfair hazards, security the and tnprovided ISSUES OF GARMENT WORKERS rajor issues Historically, there have been six: of First, piece their compari son to of garment industry. in have rates space used for production, revised, and the depreciation of of the industry, special occasions like anniversary, or when there the demand for garments. revision of piece-rates never initiated records nor been counted in have occasionally been The rates before SEWA intervened formal of Even the costs of the threads and are major fluctuations in Labor had rental time, either on bazaar's the celebration included the waiting oil used for production have never the piece-rates. low in as wel I as to the Wages have not transportation, sewing machines. very been the other workers, minimum wages. state's cost homeworkers to concern in 1977. There have been no of raises and wage revisions in the laws and have there regulations for such purpose. been any the Second, Sometimes it irregular. but most is on the made same day, fifteen is twelve to time it of the wages has been very of payment days Since atter the delivery of the finished garments. the workers can not read and write, The ex isting Factior ies Ac t knowledge. Wages Act haven't provided homeworkers are ther e without their changed and ated mani pt be of t en the records can not and are no st at e possible to enforce, and noti ce. In words, depend en t on goodwill. The thei r exploit production in and plan their and have been busi nessmen or emp1 oyer! s employers errat ic, the warkers have not had their future sense of any definite r egul at or y done at short to be often required other been has garment-work seasonal, or agenci es all traders the lean season, when ample. collaborate to see that they do not have their garments stitched at causing a - this situation, the rates are low and the supply of labor is Often, as purpose. institutions for this Third, protection of the for and Minimum the same time. demand for labor that may pull wages up. There have been no state policies on employment and labor that empiloyer s by can lessen workers' providing dependency on their al ternat i ve employment or protecti on. garment-work Fourth, with old machines without so day, a they have to do electric motors. These garments produced of less. are earned these homewor kers are women, women's work. Indian traditional the double load of bear homeworkers these Thus, done wages the bec ause Furthermore, been tedious, the number conditions reduce in has domestic duties and garment-work. Fifth to 1 mouth' garment these , provision of work and daily they can it very difficult is 'from Driven for hand essential. or reliable out without not hold more than a couple of days. money is amassed savings Because they have not incomes, live workers work for by the need for them riot to take up the jobs of other victimized workers. alternative employment, Without any or access access to credit to supplies of raw materials and market outlets, is for homeworkers to organize or Dbe very difficult organiized for workers better working conditions. the Si-th. are it very badly veriti I ated, working poor. conditions Their and crowded small, of Garment dimly lit, houses overflow with with poor coupled hardships, garments. firni shed and al s mP ateri raw make anemlia nutritinn, very common among these workers. and TB and swollen legs are common diseases treatment, i 51nce issued by from public There are no for homeworkers' to pay employers requiiring laws long where workers. industrial for faciliies of hositals to benefit with which employers their complaints cards identi ty do not have homneworkers medi c al gio for can homewor k ers welfare no are There hours. Abdominal machines for sewi ng p addl e who homewor k er s These health care. some 1978 of ill or employer rupees. had leave agreed to However, that they were On the third town. raise he the did piece-rate not for asking outright risk made exc:uses but higher wages, in to return a miiddle-size employer could not They three days. for workers decided not these garments of the finished c Ircumst ances above under Hard-pr essed day, the by 0.110 keep his word for l ong. The sense compelled some of of be:ing the cheated and e>asperated homeworkers to ao to the teacher for some assistance, to SEWA and ask sol ici ted directed which the SEWA something to improve themselves. . in the they took towards by in day first her workers Bhadra area, situation their Recalling one worker building, office to go SEWA which The major step first the was not participation. their to class. was the workers who decided it Significantly, sewio local. SEWA's of and for the SEWA reports: We went to the building, it was full of all kinds, some were like of women and many were workers like college girls freely talked with each They all us. of questions lot other and asked us a about our work. THE STRUGGLE The asked to their workers hold in enc:ouraged approached initially of group meeting the home of the and work-related women to one of talk at the the *~ .1 meeting, workers. length Three problems. SEWA were women workers the Around 50 women came to area. was held a that things about their in which SEWA work emerged from the of sense garment SEWA organizers gained a fair First, the discussion.. S:itLlatiOn the workers realized that, Second, industry. common workers one saw also as but relatives, not another Third, difficulties. and handicaps only In workers. neighbors as the or once other words. SEWA helped contact SEWA, these workers took a step to they all work, their despite individual variations in shared and the homeworkers the of them come out of their fatalism and resignation as these workers became visible to SEWA and its importantly, the workers saw for themselves that though and areas under bargain common their employers, many interest was to collectively scattered over and were they did not have similar jobs many Most organizers. higher wages for and better working conditions with the state. Some 10 such meetings were carried out in over a period of two to the attract were low key, SEWA meetings ladies held in organizers to clubs be to like tell In order the employers, of not to the meetings some temple or community hall, As Pallavi, the end. entertainment at had some the attention three months. the area said, the " other these themselves." 38 employers The and one of took my meetings held by the women how to improve The hombeworkers discussed how they were u-nprotected by the existing industrial labor and which provides they became aware that the Factories Act:, for protection if an served the workers in workers order to records homeworkers also saw departments of the state had The and employment labor the that of their i.ntervention. state avoid than 20 more of encouraging purpose (underreport) falsify to employers has establishment contrary For example, laws. information no or understanding about their problems. Soon the employers came to know of the real purpose of the meetings. by isolating the They started victimizing the workers weakest and providing them enough work. the neediest and not The employers would make an the industry, slump -in excuse that there was a general or that the workers should come back again the next day. the the employers al though Thus, workers getting did not organized, come out against they provided a subtle but effective demonstration of who was in control of the situation. The workers with little or no work became worried about their fates and decided to meetings. all no longer Like almost all the homeworkers, attend SEWA they earned their income from this direct employment and had no of source other state backing for there was no legal or gan azer that time, at intervention. SEWA secretaries said, " Muslims, They contributed consumption of food. rates of high of these among a Based upon in cut direct SEWA's alternative To store their action by workers to work and keep them going. the cloth bought from the textile SEWA rented a small warehouse next to the This place was a part of the workers' state Any experience from these victimized providing raw materials to to find homeworkers. the group decided to take direct other cases, run by the earnings or has been very common means income their give them back relatively their family's Because it female-headed households in was an who How coul d we sit 30% of their breadwinners. sole divorce among cut its as these workers, and only source of employment. at least a significant were The workers had Iost The starvino?" regular or factory. mill to these workers to get organized while they and preach were the one of Renana, or protect to nothing do could as rents or capital a textile in employment alternative such income, labor source of raw material workers to the warehouse department. mills, sewing class. education library, The alternative supplied by SEWA attracted other or 40 supply depot, asking for There was no way of separating the needy from the work. However, employers' harassments of employers over the workers since weakened the control ones could still 'punished' the find go to the SEWA store and one hand, SEWA or Thus, work. alternate This strategy employment. alternative for providing were preferred neediest and the the struggled for higher wages and better conditions, and training to the homewrkers. credit, they could not afford lay off certain workers,in effect, the of rejection which Some workers did also left failing health; of unfair employers bec ause give themn or cases, In by the employers market price, or by the with record--eeping not its ex-treme worker. finished garments dissatisfaction of employers, age and their formed the establishment the workers had to often pay for which because their left homeworkers the of dismissal of closure the either to limited for for leaving an employer were reasons the cooperative, SEWA before fact, In time. the of labor, these supply have some wor kers working least to at employers had them all reliable ensure a To do so. to permanently threaten did Though the employers to and on v'e work, to provide alternati SEWA tried hand, the other of victims the large, and by neediest. their their employers due wages. because of old no pensions were provided. Now, to. Over a event the cooperati ve economic existing SEWA became and mills textile the manager would cooperative situation. buying market in getting the right industry these made the higher not run a a the cooperative. than those paid by the "42 the Now in the them, storing the products. hus:iness of their own about the garment lot And the combination workers and SEWA's managerial cooperative successful with the employers the and marketing they soon came to know through dealing materials, raw designs, workers had Though the before, the One sewing and the in in with compete as a as well cooperative. the of employers. government departments, other the but to low wages, existing talented and was industry, the:ir only to with the worker who had a good background garment of not economic an their to alternative political saw that connivance as both, their homeworkers through exploitation The workers saw this bought remember alternative an political state's the these day when was form a to organi zers The SEWA dent. as the this order elected and cooperative the in presi y and secretar in Around 20)0) workers run the depot. shares ten-rupees decided SEWA time, of period cooperati ve to employers workers had left depot run by SEWA. supply the join time, first the for Their employers and other were piece-rates since support the profit was argin a also run to idea good for the credit on their thirteen the workers of Some the provided bank there. homewrkers with cooperatives run cooperative had by SEWA provided management of the contacts homeworkers who worked to the state' s Because the relations, leaders of the other for running a cooperative or being skills sel.f-employed. and workers The access and working the SEWA for agencies and institutions, such as public sector corporations and marketing agencies, reasonably priced arket and asked for help in opportunities. action of banks, finding raw materials and access to expanding The Labor Department, the compensation funds for victimized workers, joint up the market own businesses and take advantage of and technical The own sewing machines to start buying their opportunities. for space a to work could work other place cooperative for industry materi al s and the finished goods, raw sorting out the materials. without any SEWA garment provided cooperative SEWA's wareshousi ng and as now the self-employment." own Thus how the was helped some of the workers to set This later up their It said, cooperative, the idea of workers had a better operated. orgarizers, SEWA the one rf Pallavi, were shared by the workers. and profits low, trade union 43T struggle SC used to found the and cooperative novel a develiopment of protect-ing way and supportinq wor ker s. Very soon the in cooperative market next to the shops of the mothers. Most industr-y were young. but are trained parents other stitching and state of know this type cl asses provided knowledge of issues. and The for training found this Now apprenticeship that the time, they could at the it functional. some and some information on women's also included better garment The trainees the clients. very useful. SEWA cooperative paid higher wages, the workers could go to Though they for in girls, training literacy, some neighbors the homeworkers only these For work. who are sadly enough, But, since work, industries no cost is There skills. work, their the garment homeworkers relatives, , design and diversification of same. of children to train this work force. has no other choice with their in entrants new to provide They are not from other young the by the of This infuriated worked who girls younger to the training employers. Also. SEWA decided the most. the employers the own outlet and competition direct confrontation act of buy its had to the did not least get 44 employers get the their and demand the higher wages this accounts with the i n emploryer S other many knew oained turn them made In employers. the regular as SEWA: they worked they mingled among and organizers chance to go to SEWA has a elected commissons workers- the their However, in Joining by rown, their SEWA class a a while they had the Labor Minister person' in SEWA meet and with the government good liaison Thus, - middle And once in the capital appointed their worker' 'employed status social respectable the who on within a cooperative of for leaders. members an homeworker' gained or some such dignitary This in income improved by being status the workers they circumstances, they would have !-f a more respectable case, and SEWA, dependent breadwinners women social their instead this -fact, Under normal families. lost sociall.y these o-F status less -f communitv. their in status social some leaders and workers among the mingled workers now area and outside the in people economically the Also, since dependent on the employers. colI'ective and made them less turn in This strength. and -f work, terms in interest common a feel them made made the The cooperative each other to related feel l es- felt also They employers. dependent on their workers order. proper for come 45 various the on are the in and boards and welfare and benefit to contact its of with the the pol i tcs at levels. Though SEWA party does not a political definite In outlook regarding the problems of the workers. up comes SEWA election, workers demands and suggests the workers Thus, they who candidate the each manifesto of vote for members its that think develop own its w ith in participate directly have does it politics, level and at haiher commui ty local supports these demands. political choice own their of the employers' persuasions. irrespective Meanwhile the government put a new tax on the cloth to afford of unemployment would This business. of caused have One to ask for to SEWA employers came would force it workers. women that they could not government tax and that this pay the to argued traders women.. the that prove Immediately, state was called, and found An emergency they Minister and use this wages. Karima, the one of the of some to the government employment to many poor one of the SEWA organizers went to and capital taxation on fans. provided they day them out a widespread a photograph working women so that he could show it to employers and the The and fans sold to the employers. all out meeting of situation garment worker, 46 the workers decided to go to the Labor crucial during my interview: more about the new to demand higher recalled the event of my with go to out been never had Imagine, I never talked to my elders area, and me to SEWA wanted a loud voice. talk and capital, state the Gandh-inagar, to the Labor Minister! content of Many group meetings and the work-related the discussions demands to their had SEWA organizers typed leaders the workers' of copy health protection, .Second, with abstraction. Third, process Catien ce for results. impatient with state and not ihe Commisioner's employers, deal can the through Such acts of they been following have workers develop the Fourth, even if impatience is their the delays, as a reality than as a mystifying SEWA, with of the makers the state rather since the homeworkers get decision the the workers see they which the face with the political First, among visibility state. to submit only demand for higher wages, to face leaders has many benefits. direct hard work, " their and regular employment. workers the putting about had and the workers Since the Minister, they felt represent clearly the workers to Labor the that all "said helped they get with the with SEWA. office workers, for a and summoned oon were- usnesmen tripartite the 47 to the meeting, government officials, Labor with the on of fear was of turn Minimum Wage Act in pay more have to to their pay the homeworkers under the to provident state's the benefits care health they would feared have to relationship the law if want to they did riot Moreover, established. automatically They also workers. the bonus the additional burden of of l:i vi ng goes employers the and up, wages go up, the The the cost of with cost As the st ate. which Act, workers. their linked is Gujarat of the index to minimum wages provi des certain Ii ving Minimum Wage to the being subjected in and thus homewor k ers with these onsh ip ati employee rel an employer- establishing and admitting reluctance their The main reason for, reeting.. delay the to best their tried and upset were very businessmen The ccwmndi tiins,. working better and rates higher contribute workers or funds -for the is give of various acts and holidays under the state, was held. workers were not these In The major point of order to argued that from them and them. Thus, It later seI' argument was of act-uall y the the fact the finished to negotiate difficult, law 'buy' homeworkers were traders was equally difficult the meeting that the employees of the businessmen. make enforcement hcmmeworkers so, month or a after But eventually, the they raw materials products back to and not employees. for higher wages the SEWA have to SEWA empl oyers. the of claims and in to coLkunterbalance the meeting the at representatives happy was state The wages. pressures the cost of threads and electricity of and inclutsion representatives had facts and figures and represented an of collective underlying threat homewor k er s. home to do their give a raise of the SEWA secretary, said, a dozen Renana, Chaniya. " That was one more victory of of action joint of our strategy the businessmen agreed to 10 pm, 1.20 rupees Late negotiate. stayed to but others around at night. go to had members domestic chores, at the part of - SEWA Many action on struggle and union cooperative development." about work difficult SEWA The membership. of areas residenti.aal these separate take care of and talk to them problems. social and family problems, to the health-related or people in other the organizers remain conscious that: to make these workers see theinselves that 49 it 0f ten However, organizers did realize the to go would workers the organizers refer homeworkers who strength by increasing organizers work-related and to to gain step was The next it was difficult is and SEWA i ssues. they have as workers. The to organize all there and state to the It was in the they did; them of the with I would go all waste if and staff of resources limited its manage to very difficult of fact as in workers, the all have been reports: One organizer SEWA. to of SEWA not would it take SEWA seriously. the employers to organizing good threat a was only a potential the since assertion possible interest in effor ts Organiz-ing that.. was enough workers and its membership all of mass cruci al for doing no need was they saw that fact In the unin. in homeworkers the these to women in small to them about their and talk meetings laws, different wages, work, and how other members of unionization, vendors, vegetable the like SEWA, on received a right to sit organi zed and rollers how the Bidi or street, the funds. welfare the from benefited Sometime one of the other members of the groups would come w-ith me., trade other could see for and the home-based workers like them can workers what themeIsel. ves, and had done. Often workers' around classes action, are such the morale march to women 40 education classes come conducted are conducted and together for three days. before just These collective some as a march or a demonstration, to build up just before the of the the Labor meetings were held. In workers. 1986, Commissioner's office, the Often 50 speakers several are such from the rel industries. Once di ff+icu.t i.es of occupationral There was also this meeti ngs. Once the group of faithful and active fact come from the form of marches strikes if and prepared of conditions the the that there garment workers workers. with the to redefine follow up the The demands and job security, working struggle the support will groups of large in support the as actual well name of is still the and now a on to the concepts of are for higher wages, cards for identity on employer it. The committee is homework Minimum Wages the demands for its tripartite by including schedule o-f on the and made a report survey a were accepted, the as was membership lend their to demonstrations demands in were the workers and submitted benefits, making of rest small need arises. SEWA health that waiting members potential the to realized SEWA poli cy mohi l i zi. ng, strength. purpose more formed, educat i on, show of and as a influence, serve many these meeting Thus factory the and improved workers :i ncl ud:i rig f unct i ons, one the the and heard came Comissioner the city. in inspection the and labor, of emIployment, departments ated government of garment Act. Thus change the Factori es Act WORK, WORKERS, to and WORK-SITES. PART III FINDINGS, CONCLUSIONS, AND RECOMMENDATIONS parts I and II Based upon what we have discussed in stuWdy, 3f th is I about findings the attitude of Third, about to how particular protect the draw conclusions about how organizations like towards make recommendations and i mpor tant organizing for strategy state will some of l i st I will the I f i rst SEWA's Second, homeworkers. SEWA. wi ll support and unorganized workers in to the state homewrkers in general.- Fi ndings the First, to define their of- is shared orking wages,! collective strategy for orgariZ:ing homeworkers has interest conditions, and welfare so that a action for these scattered groups possible. issues wrk-related in of workers arid groups ion occupat against whom organizi rg workers in larger unorgani:ed or bargaining their enhance lack of the next In joined be further them to like example, for homieworkers other of s organization identifying dismissal. can groups these stage, the homogenous groups facirsg against unfair protection legal interest, in is circumstances, common exploitative employer single common them and somewhat small relatively any without they can define their for strategy come from vari ous trade because homeworkers Second, power. for higher wages is reinterpretation social of access to increase is the the of labor to devise the scope and regulations, provide and change the resources, workers, organizing that institutions state's for important existing and allocate security goal for extension limited definitions of work, state only equally struggle that strategies the not It homeworkers. the employers bargaining against collective Third, and work-sites in Policies. Folurth, two pronged. wages and the strategy On the one better workirg for hand, organiz ing hontewor-kers is the conditions '-p..) for higher struggle are carried out by the protect them workers are organized into cooperatives to and unemployment through al ternative from victimi zat ion and productivity their strengthen as wel I work, as mobilizinga On the other hand, -actions. collective for workers and organizing through un.on trade capacity of setting up their own business enhance their or entering self-employment through training, cred.dit, and marketing facilities. three types leads to are Training, negotiations. materials, alternative individual and marches, provi ding credit, cooperatives are also direct actions. action are filing legal Examples of direct actions providing and direct action, deputations, demonstrations, homeworkers organ izing of actions: policy action. and action, for strategy the Fifth, supplying raw work through Examples of legal court cases and providing evidence for expansion of the scope and reinterpretati on of the existing demands for industrial and labor committees tripartite legal in participation commi ssi ons and soiLtions -ound documented and policy making during bodies Trnovat3v e boards. organizing di scussed 54 good examples policy of Examples actions. Often and statutory bodies to examine the issues of workers are also of laws. the thr ough action are like planning and workable homeworkers are publications and parti ci. ar seminars so that pol icy-makers in purpose increasing of and reports, helping the state policy making. carried in Various out to also useful homeworkers are fill in and surveys, publications understand the problems of in in additional homewrkers statistical reports that are instrumental surveys, an have of visibility census, records, official influenced. actions three these Sixth, favorably is general, opinion in and public missing information about such workers and their work. Seventh, by exposing the interests over the regulatory resources of the state three counterbalancing institutions and welfare above, organizing homeworkers can be in the business through effective use of mentioned actions of control the strategy the made useful established all the for to the state of claims the business interests. COncu I si ons Keeping in mind the significance of these unorgani zed workers' development and political the country, towards the organizations attitude m.st change its state of the stability economic the to buti on contri that represent their interests. mobilize effectively around a common Thus, interest. their potential of in is asserting other workers should not the state for what they are, organizations view such numbers vast to ability their from also but membership sector workers, not only from their strength their gain SEWA, such as direct informal organizat ions of First, but for what demands through their large-scale mobilization of unorganized workers. homework Second, is not. a backward and traditional form of temporary work carried out by workers, till full of industrialization the economy is way of work and production of essential goods major ity homeworkers, to find their state state's is a at a very for the use of low-income people , who are in low cost. a It achieved. in the country. By organizing these organizati ons like SEWA are supporting them own sources of income and employment. should burden view of organizations these providing reducing employment and responsibi .l it-y for the wel-f are (-f so many people. 56 The the the of their the fatalism and resignation children, and workers wages in sweat shops. needs workers' of large of hours womnen, at encouraging by only addressing low address these Such organizations not in numbers long for toiling their by providing examples but also talents entrepreneurial SEWA such as played by organizations role the should view positively state The employers. on dependency political even and economic, social, from generati ons workers su-ffer unorganized Third, of economic success. Fourth, state would be a it believe that officials chaos if the rules and regulations applied in the formal sector are However, the also other trade workers should break experience of the state very limited this in working by the state unions be seen new grounds in unorganized workers. the to applied search of and with inorganized -as a challenge to successful of efforts organizing homeworkers. R ec o mmend at i on s The state should make 57 an effort to curbn at least the worst of such regulations as very -low wages, sweatshop drudgerY. ect iv e coll of lack and sec urity, s oci al 0f lack and we I-are labor its f falings the bargaining power of workers. workers, their own for effective representation organizations of in autonomy these of the available even to are organizations and water, and electricity should these cooperatives. The programs training that cooperatives are useful and be state in managerial to homeworkers should increase productivity. 58 space., storage provided to workers. the of and union trade their as such these that see development infrastructure, of nor even workers. out carry cooperative members of not possible, is should able to over- activities. not are unprotected state avoid and support shotuld be who it as the Third, Provision of organize all to struggle overlap the workers organizations, required. to protection state's However, also encourage must organizations and institutionalization these state The policies. state they form democratic see that state must the and support unorganized order to protect in First, to support also teChnFica.1 form their provide skills own Fourth, the state of laws labor the by the but factories not only of where areas the also home-based sub-contracting of done through prodLuction is the existing labor and inspection through regulations industrial can be This workers. enforcing effectively working wages, minimum to related conditions, and welfare of done stop outright evasion must, try to work and under reporting of records, protection Fi f th laws must and industrial and care, health the Sixth, homewrkers state of and and access to make should it The for easier should to obtain expandinog reasonably market 59 own their agencies state also the es by opportuniti the purchase of for authori]ties, marketing homeworkers hazards. such as public sector corporations, institutions, and compensation, accident production. are provident Examples take advantage of market to providing them with credit tools to the unemployed be extended from occupational protection benefits of existing labor homeworkers. victimized funds, and and banks, help the priced raw materials opportuni ties. 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Sector in an Urban The Economy: A Study in Ahmedabad", The Giri. Institute of Devel opment Studies, Lucknow, Ind:i a, Mi meo. 1978. Peattie, Lisa. The Organization of the "Marginals", Comparative Urban Research. Volume VII No 2 1979. pp. 5-21. Peattie, L. R. " Anthropological Perspectives on the Concepts of Dualism, the Informal Sector, and Marginality in Developing Urban Economics". International Regional Science Review,. Vol. 5, No. 1, 1980 pp. 1-29. Portes, Roberts, A. and Waton, J., Labor-, Class and the International System, New York: Academic Press, 1981., pp. 67-103. Bryan. Organizing Strangers: Poor Families in Guatemala City. Austin: University of Texas Press.1939. SEWA. Annual SEWA. " Report. Ahmedabad. 1985. Hawkers and National Policy", Theme paper for the Seminar On Hawkers and National Policy by SEWA, New Delhi, May, 1986. " Policies for EXpanding Employment the Weeks, J. Developing Countries," Informal Urban Sector of International Labor Review, Volume 3, No. 1, in 1975.