P E O P L E A N D T H E C O A S T : C U LT U R E A N D H I S T O R Y Our Coast: A National Heritage 2A A heritage is something that is passed down from one generation to the next. When we seals and birds, many of which were given strange names: seals were called ‘sea wolves’ and gannets ‘mad geese’. consider South Africa’s magnificent coast with all How has it changed? its beauty, wealth, diversity and history as a Scientists have made many discoveries. First, taxonomists national heritage it is a challenge to determine set about describing and naming the abundance of life, then what will be passed on to our children. by experiment and observation they recorded the fascinating biology and adaptations of these animals. Then came the period of ecological work when scientists tackled whole eco- Healing powers for the soul The coast has a remarkable affect on people’s well-being. It has systems. They traced energy transfer through the kelp forest inhabitants and looked at the whole Benguela ecosystem, sandy beaches and rocky shores, intertidal zonation, coral the ability to relax, refresh and entertain one with its continual reef ecology and the dynamics of estuaries. The migration of variety, movement and smells. The soothing sound of distant wading birds, whales and turtles have also been studied. waves, the mewling of seagulls, the wind, the sun and beautiful views, provide a perfect holiday venue. South Africa’s 3 200 km of coastline is very varied, encompassing the subtropical Maputaland coast with warm waters and dune forests, the Wild Coast of rolling hills, aloes, intimate beaches and rugged rocky promontories, the Garden Route with lagoons, Tsitsikamma forest with its refreshing walks and bathing, and the Cape with its sharply contrasting mountains and sea. And then there is the sparsely populated rugged west coast, hot during the day, dry and yet frequently engulfed in fog banks that envelop the kelp forests, saturating the air with the characteristic smell of the sea. These are all experiences that have been enjoyed in the past and uplift one today. The question is; will the next generation be taught to appreciate and protect this great outdoor and will it be as splendid in the next millennium? Sustainable utilisation In recent years the importance and impact of humans as part of the marine environment has been highlighted. From being a curiosity and a source of food, fuel and fertiliser our marine life has become a multi-billion Rand source of income to the country and an essential source of food and employment to a burgeoning population. Improved methods of harvesting have led to over-exploitation of many resources such as some fish, rock lobsters, whales and birds. Due to the decline in the supply, management plans have had to be implemented to ensure sustainable utilisation of marine resources. To achieve this, it is essential to gain scientific knowledge about population dynamics and to be able to make informed predictions determining allowable catches that will indeed be sustainable for many generations to come. Education It is important to educate people of all ages and Over the last three hundred years alone, how much has our coastal heritage changed? Natural Heritage South Africa has an amazing diversity in the sea with over 10 000 species of marine plants and animals, many of which are endemic (occurring only in this region). The fact that the country is bathed by two mighty oceans with vastly different characteristics, temperatures and currents has led to different climates on land and three distinct biogeographical zones; subtropical east coast, the intermediate south coast and the cold temperate Namaqua zone of the west coast. On the west coast cold water wells up from the depths, bringing fertilising nutrients to the surface. The greatest amount of upwelling in the walks of life so that they are aware, appreciate and care for our coastal and marine life. Cultural Heritage Diverse people South Africa is a rich rainbow nation of many cultures. Each group of people; stone age dwellers, KhoiSan, amaBantu, European explorers, those from India and Malaysia, migrants from other parts of Africa and tourists of the world have all contributed in their dress, customs, language, cuisine and buildings. Take a look at the common names of fishes or places, such as snoek, perlemoen, kreef, seneni (red bait), poenskop, bokkoms (dried fish) and Port Elizabeth for evidence of our diverse cultural heritage. world, ten times that in California or Chile, occurs along the west The history and influence of these peoples is a heritage to coast and fuels rich plankton meadows, vast kelp forests, shoals cherish and preserve. of fishes and birds, seals and whales that feed on them. Prehistory Archaeologists have in the last 100 years Scientific discoveries The natural heritage of the country discovered many caves and middens giving a clue to the life was harvested in a small way by strandlopers and Khoi-San style and gathering habits of stoneage people and strandlopers. and there seemed to be an endless supply of fishes, whales, Stone tools, rock paintings and bones all tell a story of life in the past. Recent excavations of caves on Robberg Peninsula huts and San reed huts in Namaqualand all remind us of our at Plettenberg Bay have revealed how early Khoi-San people diverse cultural heritage. It is important to recognise significant spent the summer inland and moved to the coast in winter to buildings and make sure that they are preserved. Lighthouses find food along the shore. Fossil records also show how the too, are of great interest and historical significance and, of marine life itself has changed and evolved along with the course, an essential safety measure for shipping. changes of sea level that leave ancient raised shorelines many kilometres inland. Huge bivalves, sabre-toothed cats, shortnecked giraffes and giant buffalo, with 3-metre horn-spans, once roamed the coast-line and have left their fossilised remains near Saldanha Bay. Coastal development One of the potentially most-damaging human influences on our coast is that of development as the whole topography can be changed for ever. The tidal flow of many estuaries has been obstructed by the building of weirs and bridges, with the result that salt marshes and reed beds Shipwrecks Early Portuguese explorers planted crosses at dry up and change. Building of houses and roads on dune significant points along the coast during their search for a systems and even the stabilising of dunes have dramatically passage to the east. The sheer coastline of South Africa and changed adjacent beaches and their marine life. The south the tempestuous seas have been an inhospitable challenge coast of KwaZulu-Natal and developments around the eastern to seafarers and fishers through the ages. Over 3000 ships borders of the Cape Peninsula illustrate how high-rise flats and have floundered along these shores and each tells a story. hotels can destroy the views of older dwellings and create an Accounts of the fate and survival of shipwrecked sailors have artificial environment where the sea is confined by cement been recorded in a number of books covering the early East walls and lawns. In order to cater for all needs it is essential Indiaman sailing ships, the disappearance of the Waratah and to have management plans for the coast that identify areas to the recent sinking of the Treasure. The Shipwreck museum at be set aside as reserves with no development, areas for Bredasdorp captures some of the drama and displays objects recreation with controlled development, areas for industry, salvaged from ship wrecks. Diving and looking for treasure fisheries and commercial harbours as well as high density around old shipwrecks can be a rewarding past-time. The nodes for housing and hotels. recent demise of the Apollo Sea, a Chinese ship that broke up and sank near Dassen Island in 1994 brought only grief and expense. Nothing was found of the 32 crew members while the huge oil slick that enveloped the Cape coast and nearby islands caused the death of thousands of penguins and cost R25 million to clean up. Buildings Different groups of people have left their mark Everyone has seen changes Everyone who has spent any time in South Africa will be able to cite changes and talk about the good old days of swimming off the pier at the end of Adderley Street or when fish were plentiful and crayfish could be lifted out of knee-deep water at rustic Seapoint. But they will also be able to marvel at amazing ships, sleek sailing vessels, the transformation of once unattractive harbour areas along the coast in the form of buildings. Some of these are into vibrant waterfronts. Divers have greater access to the protected as national monuments. The Cape Town castle underwater world where photographers and scientists have was once a fort on the seafront and is now a museum some revealed wonders that were never dreamed of. We cannot distance inland, due to reclamation of land along the foreshore. turn back the clock but let us make sure that as we move The old post house at Muizenberg, Rhode’s cottage at St. into the future we take with us an attractive, viable, diverse, James, fisher’s cottages around Agulhas and Arniston, Cape living coastal heritage. Dutch homesteads, 1820-settler dwellings and buildings at Grahamstown and Port Elizabeth, Transkei dwellings, Zulu Author: Margo Branch September 2000 FURTHER INFORMATION: • South African Museum, P.O. Box 61, Cape Town Tel 021-24 3330 Fax 021-424 6716 • Port Elizabeth Museum P.O. Box 13147, Humewood Tel 041-561051 • Shipwreck Museum Bredasdorp • Branch G. M., Griffiths C.L., Branch M. L. & Beckley L.E. 1994. Two Oceans A guide to the Marine Life of Southern Africa. David Philip, Cape Town. • Kench J.E. 1984. The Coast of Southern Africa . Struik, CapeTown RELATED FACTSHEETS: • Lighthouses • Marine Biodiversity • Sustainable Use of Coastal Resources • Marine Protected Areas • Islands • Maputaland Coast • West Coast • Wild Coast • Garden Route • Birds and Oil Spills For more information, please contact: The Coastal Management Office, Marine and Coastal Management, Department of Environmental Affairs and Tourism, Private Bag X2, Roggebaai 8012, Cape Town, South Africa. Tel: +27 (0)21 402-3208 Fax: +27 (0)21 418-2582 e-mail: czm@mcm.wcape.gov.za Website: http://sacoast.wcape.gov.za P E O P L E A N D T H E C O A S T : C U LT U R E A N D H I S T O R Y Strandlopers and Shell Middens 2A T he question is often asked, “Who are the Strandlopers?” They include virtually all the people who have roamed the coast, harvesting the intertidal resources and feeding on stranded whales Ancient dune formations of the west coast, especially those with high calcium content derived from shell particles, have preserved the remains of bones and stone artefacts for 500 000 years or more. Sandveld archaeology has made a significant contribution to our understanding of the history of and seals, but more especially the term was used for humans in Africa. Scientists have discovered that the ratio prehistoric Stone Age man and included the San of the chemicals argonite to calcite in limpet shells is (the Bushmen hunter-gatherers) and the Khoekhoe determined by the temperature in which they were laid down. (herders) but it is no longer used. The coast of South Africa is littered with large mounds of shells. These build up through several agents: by storm, by seagulls and by humans. Shell middens are the accumulations By examining the composition of limpet shells in middens they have been able to confirm the last ice age and even discover whether shells were harvested in winter or summer. Early man on the west coast of shells discarded where prehistoric people lived and There is widespread agreement that people separated from fed for extended periods. Shell middens may contain their nearest relatives (the ancestors of today’s gorillas and stone tools, shards of pottery, and even bits of bone, chimpanzees) some 5-8 million years ago and that this occurred fish hooks made of bone and stone sinkers. Some of the oldest shell middens in the world, dating back as much as 120 000 years, occur along the Cape coast. Middens can provide valuable information in Africa. The earliest stone tools were made about 2.5 million years ago. At Langebaanweg a rich fossil site was revealed during phosphate mining operations. Five million years ago now-extinct bears, sabre-tooth cats, short-necked giraffes, three-toed horses and a huge ostrich roamed the area. In about changes in climate, animal and plant life and addition there are deposits containing numerous fishes, a the lifestyles of Strandlopers. giant megatooth shark, frogs and tortoises, penguins, seals and dolphins – evidence that the coast was nearby. Although there were six species of hyena there is no sign of early Excavating middens humans in this part of the country at that time. At some time between 1.5 and 0.5 million years ago people moved from Digging holes in middens in search of interesting artefacts or tropical Africa into the temperate regions. The Elandsfontein skeletons is destructive as these cannot be reliably dated if the site near Hopefield is clearly younger than Langebaanweg, strata of the midden have been disturbed. Information can only containing far fewer extinct forms but does include short be gained by the careful excavation of middens, accompanied necked giraffe, giant buffalo with a 3-m horn span and giant by detailed recording, statistical analyses and the dating of the baboons, hartebeest, zebras and springbok, as well as the layers. Conservation of these important sources of information skull and a few limb bones of ‘Saldanha man’. Archaeologists is vital if we are to build up a larger picture of how our coast- believe that the Elandsfontein watering hole was used line has been used through prehistory. between 700 000 and 400 000 years ago. Other sites like this are common on the calcareous sand at Duinefontein, Melkbos, Elands Bay, and Swartklip on the False Bay coast. skeleton of a child was found and radiocarbon-dated at about 700 BC. The Nelson Bay cave may have been occupied as early as 70 000 years ago, but the bulk of the remains come ‘Eve’s footprints’ on the sands of Langebaan from about 800 to 3 000 years ago. There are only four sets of fossilised human footprints in the Like detectives, scientists used the evidence to determine world. The oldest, 117 000-year-old footprints, dubbed ‘Eve’s climate changes and information about the behaviour of footprints’ because they are likely to have been made by a people. During the great ice age the sea was probably about woman, were discovered in 1995 at Langebaan. Because 80 km further offshore of Robberg so that the cave was of the threat of erosion and vandalism the slab of rock surrounded by grassland, where animals grazed. As the ice containing the prints was pre-treated, carefully chiselled free melted between 18 000 and 12 000 years ago the sea level and transported to the SA Museum in Cape Town. Exploiting shells – A first for South Africa rose and people harvested seals, fish and countless shells near the cave. This warming of the climate is further indicated by the fact that the cold-water black mussels prevailed in lower The earliest recognisable shell middens (as a result of human strata of the midden and then about 8 000 years ago it was collecting and disposal) are in South Africa. At Sea Harvest and gradually replaced by the brown mussel, which is a warm- Hoedjiespunt near Saldanha there are middens with shell, bone, water creature. From evidence of limpet shell structure and stone tools and ostrich-egg shell pieces that are more than the size of seal pups it was deduced that these Strandlopers 40 000 and perhaps 100 000 years old. At Klaasies River spent the summer inland and only harvested the shore in Mouth near Humansdorp similar shell middens in large coastal winter when game was less plentiful. The larger limpets were caves have been dated to 100 000 to 120 000 years old. gradually removed leaving much smaller shells in the upper layers of the midden – is this an intriguing example of early Peers cave over-exploitation of marine resources? Peers Cave overlooks the Fish Hoek valley on the Cape Visvywers – ancient fish traps Peninsula and was the site of a sensational find by Victor Peers and his son Bertram in the 1920s – a complete skeleton, Also along our coast are prehistoric fish traps known as known as ‘Fish Hoek Man’. It was estimated to be some ‘visvywers’. These were constructed up to 2000 years ago 15 000 years old but unfortunately, because of their crude and some are still in use today. They consist of a wall of methods of extraction the levels of the cave deposits were stone built to enclose a portion of bay. When the tide rises disturbed, making precise dating impossible. and floods over the wall the fish swim into the enclosure. As the tide falls and the water seeps away between the rocks Nelson Bay Cave at Robberg Between 1964 and 1971 the Nelson Bay cave on the Robberg Peninsula near Plettenberg Bay was fully recorded in a scientifically controlled dig by the Universities of Cape Town, Chicago (USA) and Louvain (Belgium). This commodious Khoi-San residence is 20 m at the mouth and 30 m deep. A the fish are trapped in the shallows and easily caught or speared. All fish traps over 50 years old are protected by law. These can be seen at Skipskop on the way to Cape Agulhas, as well as at Stilbaai and elsewhere around the Cape coast. What you can do narrow cutting was made to plumb the full depth of the deposit Be aware of the rich archaeological heritage buried beneath the on its floor. In the upper layers over a million fish remains were sandy landscape of the shore and on the floors of caves. It found as well as the bones of seals, seabirds, antelope, wild would be tragic if what nature has preserved for many millennia, pig and buffalo. At deeper levels relicts of now-extinct species people were to destroy in a few decades by driving over such as the quagga, giant buffalo, and giant hartebeest were dunes, building on shell middens, removing middens for the discovered. Throughout the deposit were stone tools and lime they contain or digging up artefacts without using proper quartzite flakes used for cutting and scraping skins. The methods and records. Author: Margo Branch September 2000 FURTHER INFORMATION: • S.A Museum, P O Box 61, Cape Town. Tel (021) 4243330 Fax (021) 4246716 • Archaeology Dept. University of Cape Town, Rondebosch Cape Town. • Albany Museum, Grahamstown. • Natal Museum, Pietermaritzburg. RELATED FACTSHEETS: • Marine Fossils • Traditional Fishing Methods • Mussel Harvesting For more information, please contact: The Coastal Management Office, Marine and Coastal Management, Department of Environmental Affairs and Tourism, Private Bag X2, Roggebaai 8012, Cape Town, South Africa. Tel: +27 (0)21 402-3208 Fax: +27 (0)21 418-2582 e-mail: czm@mcm.wcape.gov.za Website: http://sacoast.wcape.gov.za P E O P L E A N D T H E C O A S T : C U LT U R E A N D H I S T O R Y Traditional Fishing Methods 2A F ish have been caught from the rivers of crayfish are snapped up using stealth and fleetness Southern Africa for as long as mankind has of hand. Other shellfish and urchins are also been in the area. Across the country, the discarded harvested and many are used by sangomas remnants of these catches built up in middens that (traditional healers). Fish are usually caught in archaeologists can now analyse to get a glimpse of shallow bays, estuaries, lakes and lagoons. However prehistoric fishing activities. Riverside middens of only in the tropical regions of Southern Africa early Khoi-San cultures frequently contain the where people have tended to concentrate and bones and scales of fishes and occasionally stone where there are enough fish, have traditional sinkers and fish hooks made of bone. On the coast fishing activities endured. The best examples the main catch has been mussels and limpets that are found in the lowlands and estuaries of were simply harvested at low tide with the help of Mozambique and Maputaland, and the flood a sharp rock or, in recent years, a metal blade or plains of the Zambezi and Okavango rivers in screwdriver. Crustaceans such as crabs and Angola, Zambia, Namibia and Botswana. Traditional fishing equipment Fish drives Fishers variously use a rod and line, bow and arrows, fishing Groups of men and women often combine to drive fish into spears and woven grass or reed scoops or plunge baskets bays and backwaters where they can be easily caught in and a range of fish traps. Following a long tradition, people fonya thrust baskets. The amaThonga living on the Phongola have learnt the behaviour of the fishes. The Thonga fishermen floodplain have a number of cultural traditions involving fishing. have built 80 or so fish kraals in the mouth of the estuary at The children capture small fish with home-made seine nets Kosi Bay. Each fish kraal consists of a stick fence that directs and adults use valve fish traps. When the water is low the the fish into a funnel-like reed trap. The central channel of the headman, in consultation with sangomas, estuary is kept free of fences so that the fish swim in on the will organise a massive fonya drive rising tide and then spread out into the estuary, and are in which hundreds of people trapped as the tide falls. The fishermen then spear the fish in participate. Laughing and the trap. In the Phongolo flood plain umono valve traps made chatting, over 200 of reed are set into gaps in a stick barrier. A similar method is employed on the Okavango river but there is no tidal flow to bring the fish in and out, instead the Sintunga corral traps are built with an opening on one side, where the fence curls inwards making it difficult for fish to leave the trap. These people also use large conical sikuku fish baskets into which the fish swim. Some of the basket traps are quite simple in design while others, that are left in the water, may have a complex one-way valve, funnelling fish easily into the trap but preventing them from escaping back to the entrance. Fish are herded into shallow water and caught in fonya thrust baskets Umona valve traps set in a fence people form a continuous line and wade through the waste- bay. When the tide rises it tops the wall and many fish enter deep water. Thrusting down with large conical ‘fonya’ baskets, the bay to feed in the shallows. As the tide drops the water they trap the fish being driven ahead of them into the shallows. seeps away between the rocks leaving the fish trapped in a The fish are removed through the hole in the top of the basket. confined area where they can be speared. In some visvywers On the Save river the people walk through the water holding the stone kraal is almost solid and there is a palisade gate a Hlengwe palisade fence of reeds and drive the fish before where the water flows away. them and into the shallows. Conservation and traditional fishing Flooding the floodplain for fish Traditional fishing is not generally as damaging to the ecosystem Along the eastern foot of the Lebombo Mountains in northern and fish stocks as many forms of commercial fishing, but Zululand, lies the Phongolo floodplain, covering over 120 km2. increased populations and poverty can intensify fishing and have Before the building of the Phongolopoort dam at Jozini 30 a negative affect. Illegal gill netting also poses a threat to many years ago, seasonal floods filled the plain’s unique series of of these areas. In an attempt to protect this important cultural 89 pans. Now the optimal timing and size of simulated floods way of life and to use the source of food sustainably, the is important for the people, crops, cattle, wildlife and fish. communities and conservation authorities, scientists and Fish form a major part of the diet of more than 80 000 people government bodies have been consulted and various plans who live in the floodplain. Many species of fish are dependent put into action. For example in Kosi Bay the use of gill nets is on floods to spawn. Water authorities, scientists and the local restricted and the fish fences are allocated and owned by local communities have all taken part in the planning, conservation families who agree to limit the number of traps. The catch from and management of the area. the traps is monitored to continually assess the resource. It is important to demonstrate that controlled harvesting can bring Coastal fish traps – Visvywers immediate benefits to rural and disadvantaged communities In the sea, inventive fishers built large stone fish traps known and that legal fishers develop a sense of custodianship of the as visvywers. Some of them date back to prehistoric times. fish resources. They consist of a curved stone wall built to enclose a small Author: Margo Branch September 2000 FURTHER INFORMATION: • Skelton P. 1993. A complete Guide to the Freshwater Fishes of Southern Africa. Southern Book publishers, Halfway House, S Africa. • J.L.B. Smith Institute of Ichthyology, P Bag 1015, Grahamstown 6140. Tel (046) 636 1002. • Bruton, M & Cooper, K. H. Eds. 1980. Studies on the Ecology of Maputaland . Wildlife Society of Southern Africa. RELATED FACTSHEETS: • Standlopers and Shell Middens • Kosi Bay • St. Lucia • Mussel Harvesting • Dwesa and Cwebe Nature Reserves. For more information, please contact: The Coastal Management Office, Marine and Coastal Management, Department of Environmental Affairs and Tourism, Private Bag X2, Roggebaai 8012, Cape Town, South Africa. Tel: +27 (0)21 402-3208 Fax: +27 (0)21 418-2582 e-mail: czm@mcm.wcape.gov.za Website: http://sacoast.wcape.gov.za P E O P L E A N D T H E C O A S T : C U LT U R E A N D H I S T O R Y History of Whaling 2A W hales have been exploited for centuries – archaeological evidence indicates that even the inhabitants of southern Africa, the KhoiSan, made use of beached whales for their meat, oil and bones, the latter as a building material for In the late 18th century French, American and British whalers began working their way down the west coast of Africa, and by 1791 a British fleet of 32 ships was operating out of St. Helena Bay, taking about 1200 whales over two years. Most of these were southern right whales, which are slow swimmers, float when dead, and produce a high oil yield, so were rudimentary shelters. In those days, before the considered the “right” whale to hunt. The oil was used as an advent of commercial exploitation, large numbers illuminant and lubricant, while the tough but flexible “whale- of southern right whales, which visit sheltered bays bone” or baleen was exported to England and used for such along the south coast to mate and give birth, and diverse products as chair springs, hairbrush bristles, corset humpback whales, which migrate up the east and stays, skirt hoops, umbrellas and shoe horns. west coasts of southern Africa to their tropical The local inhabitants were eager to share in these riches, so breeding areas, would have occurred close inshore. in 1792 the Dutch East India Company opened whaling to the Natural mortality and occasional beach strandings citizens of the Cape. However, the industry only expanded after the second British occupation in 1806, when operations would have put this resource within reach of the were established in St. Helena Bay, Table Bay, Simonstown, Khoi-San. Fish Hoek, Kalk Bay, Gordon’s Bay, Mossel Bay, Plettenberg Bay and Algoa Bay. Open boats were used to row out to Shore-based whaling southern right whales in these sheltered bays. Although the numbers taken were small compared to the large-scale factory The Inuit (Eskimo) people of the Arctic Circle were among the ship whaling that would later develop in the Southern Ocean. first to hunt whales from boats, harpooning their quarry from This practice was particularly damaging to the stock as it kayaks. In Europe, the Basques of Spain were hunting whales targeted adult females about to calve or with dependant from small open boats in the Bay of Biscay as early as the young. As a result, southern right whale numbers declined 12th century, and by the 1600s the French, English, Dutch, rapidly, and the whalers began targeting humpbacks instead. Danes, Norwegians, Germans and Portuguese were also However, humpbacks fetched only £20-£200 compared to whaling in their coastal waters. By the early 1700s, whaling £400-£600 for right whales, so the industry became sub- had spread to the east coast of America. economic and some stations were forced to close. Whaling was often a bloody and violent event, causing much suffering to the animal and danger to the whalers Ship-based whaling Modern whaling, using harpoon cannons mounted on steam- International Whaling Commission driven catcher boats, came to South Africa in 1908. Two In December 1946, South Africa was one of 15 nations to Norwegian businessmen set up the South African Whaling sign the International Convention for the Regulation of Company and opened a whaling station on the Bluff, Durban. Whaling, which came into effect in 1948 and established an In 1909 they opened a second station at Donkergat in International Whaling Commission. Although it was at first Saldanha Bay, and at both stations the catch was mainly ineffective, the IWC eventually introduced total prohibitions on humpbacks. The problem of these whales sinking when the killing of humpback and blue whales in 1963 and 1967 dead had been overcome by the development in the late respectively. Quotas were set for sperm whales in 1974, and 19th century of a harpoon that had an explosive head and in 1973 the IWC agreed to phase out fin-whaling in the was attached by a line to the boat. southern hemisphere within three years. The success of the company stimulated the whaling industry’s In 1982 member countries of the IWC voted in favour of a growth, and by 1913 there were 11 floating factories and moratorium on commercial whaling to allow scientists to 17 land stations operating between Gabon and central conduct a comprehensive review of whale stocks. This Mozambique, taking a total of 10 135 whales in that year. moratorium, effective from 1 January 1986, is still in place At the same time whaling activities developed rapidly in the today, and is observed by all countries except Japan and whales’ feeding grounds in the south-western Atlantic. Norway. While Japan uses a loophole that allows for “scientific Soon the numbers of humpbacks migrating up the African research” to continue whaling in Antarctica, Norway continues coast dwindled, and this, together with the onset of World to exploit whales in the north-east Atlantic on the legal War I, led to the closure of many whaling stations. Those grounds of its objection to the moratorium. companies that did continue whaling, or resumed after the war, were forced to venture further offshore in the search for humpacks, where they encountered other species. Off Saldanha, blue and fin whales dominated the catch between 1914 and 1930, while about 39% of the Natal catch during this period was made up of sperm whales. Both countries target minke whales, which have a global population of approximately 750 000 and thus could support a sustainable harvest. At the 1994 IWC meeting, the organisation’s scientific committee presented a Revised Management Procedure that would allow quotas to be issued for minke whales while guaranteeing total protection of heavily In the mid-1920s the first factory ship, with a stern slipway depleted species. However, at the meeting the IWC voted in through which whales could be hauled for on-board favour of a Southern Ocean Sanctuary for whales, covering an processing, began operating in Antarctica. By the 1930/31 area of 28 million square kilometres and to be reviewed every season there were 41 such ships involved in “ice-whaling”, 10 years (an Indian Ocean Sanctuary had been declared in with a combined catch of over 40 000 whales, three-quarters 1992.) Japan was the only member country to vote against the of them blue whales. This soon flooded the market and led to sanctuary, and has continued to take up to 440 minke whales a drop in oil prices, with the result that most shore-based from Antarctic waters each year for “scientific research”, stations in southern Africa closed. although the meat is sold in Japan where it fetches high prices In 1931 the League of Nations produced a Convention for the as a delicacy. Regulation of Whaling, adopted by 26 nations. This banned the catching of all right whales, as well as calves, sexually immature whales and lactating females of other species. Author: Sue Matthews September 2000 FURTHER INFORMATION: • Bruton, M. 1998. The Essential Guide to Whales in Southern Africa. David Philip Publishers, Cape Town. • Payne, A. I. L., Crawford, R. J. M. & Van Dalsen, A. 1989. Oceans of Life off Southern Africa. Vlaeberg Publishers, Cape Town. RELATED FACTSHEETS: • Southern Right Whale • Humpback Whale • Baleen and Toothed Whales • Baleen Whales seen around our Coast • Rare and Endangered Baleen Whales • Sperm and Beaked Whales • Killer and Pilot Whales For more information, please contact: The Coastal Management Office, Marine and Coastal Management, Department of Environmental Affairs and Tourism, Private Bag X2, Roggebaai 8012, Cape Town, South Africa. Tel: +27 (0)21 402-3208 Fax: +27 (0)21 418-2582 e-mail: czm@mcm.wcape.gov.za Website: http://sacoast.wcape.gov.za P E O P L E A N D T H E C O A S T : C U LT U R E A N D H I S T O R Y Lighthouses 2A I n the days when the seas around the southern was developed that allows each lighthouse to be identified at tip of Africa represented a vital trade route to night according to its characteristic flashing pattern. The and from the East, countless ships ran aground along South Africa’s treacherous coastline. Indeed, the challenge of rounding the Cape Peninsula was dreaded by generations of sailors, who dubbed it the Cape of Storms and longed for the sheltered waters of Table Bay. intensity of the beam is measured in terms of Candle Power (CD). Lighthouses are also painted different colours so that they can be recognised during the day. Many have foghorns, radar reflectors and radio beacons as extra navigational aids. The last South African lighthouse to be commissioned was the one at Groenriviermond on the West Coast, as recently as 1988. With the introduction of sophisticated global positioning systems (GPS), the role of lighthouses in maritime navigation has been reduced, but they nevertheless represent an In 1656 Jan van Riebeeck instructed that a signal fire be lit on Robben Island to warn mariners of this shipping hazard as they approached the Cape Colony settlement on the shores of Table important historical facet of our coastal heritage. Green Point lighthouse Bay. Wood fires were later followed by coal fires, and it was The first formal lighthouse to be built on the South African coast not until the 18th century that these bonfire beacons were was the one at Green Point in Cape Town (not to be confused replaced by specially designed lamps burning animal or with the lighthouse of the same name near Aliwal Shoal in vegetable oil, or even banks of candles, as maritime KwaZulu-Natal). It was commissioned in 1824 and has navigation devices. Later still, in the mid-19th century, undergone numerous changes during its lifetime. Apart from petroleum-based oils were introduced, but today all lighthouses improvements to the optics, the lighthouse has changed colour are fully automated and have electric lamps. Only 12 of the several times in an attempt to make it stand out against the 45 existing lighthouses along our coast are still manned by surrounding structures in this built-up area. Today it is painted lighthouse keepers. with red and white diagonal stripes. A diaphone-type foghorn Lighthouses have a revolving lamp and lens system that concentrate the beam and produce a flash when its direction coincides with the observers’ line of vision. An international system of timed revolutions and flashes was installed in 1926, despite opposition from local residents, who feared that it would disturb their sleep. This was replaced by an electrically operated nautophone in 1986. The lighthouse beam has a range of 25 nautical miles and an intensity of 850 000 CD, with one flash every 10 seconds. On 1 July 1966, when the SA Seafarer was wrecked on the warns mariners of the shipping hazard imposed by Roman rocks just off Green Point during a north-westerly gale, the Rock. It was electrified in 1938. rotating beam of the lighthouse was stopped and focussed Another lighthouse in Algoa Bay is the one on Bird on the ship to provide illumination as the crew Island, a small rocky island with large gannet were winched to safety by helicopters. and penguin colonies. The initial wooden lighthouse commissioned in 1852 was The second lighthouse to be built in replaced by a masonry tower in 1873. South Africa was at nearby Mouille Today it is painted red and white. Point in 1842. It was dismantled in the 1920s because it was considered unsatisfactory by masters of ships entering and leaving Table Bay, and by this time the Robben Island lighthouse was operational (1865). The Hill Lighthouse This lighthouse stands on the Donkin Reserve on the slope above the port, was withdrawn from service in 1973 because Cape Agulhas lighthouse its beam could not be clearly distinguished from the lights of This lighthouse stands on the southernmost tip of the African the densely built-up area surrounding it. It was built in 1861 continent. It was the third South African lighthouse to be alongside the Pyramid, a monument built by Sir Rufane commissioned, in 1849, following a spate of shipping accidents Donkin to his late wife. on the area’s dangerous reefs. Indeed, between 1673 and 1990 over 124 ships have been wrecked within an 80 km Facts about South African lighthouses: radius of Cape Agulhas, testimony to the fact that this is the most hazardous section of the South African coast to navigate. The lighthouse was declared structurally unsafe in the 1960s and was decommissioned when it was replaced by a lantern on an adjacent aluminium tower in 1968. However, during the • Strongest beam: Cape Point lighthouse, Cape Peninsula (10 000 000 CD) • Most isolated manned lighthouse: Dassen Island lighthouse, West Coast (11 km offshore) 1980s it was restored and equipped for fully automatic operation. Today the beam has a range of 30 nautical miles and an intensity of 7 500 000 CD. It flashes once every five seconds. The building is painted in red and white bands. The lighthouse was declared a National Monument in 1973, and has also been included in the recently proclaimed Agulhas National Park. It houses a lighthouse and maritime • First lighthouse to be automated: Green Point lighthouse, Kwazulu Natal (1961) • Only diaphone-type fog signal still in operation: Cape Columbine lighthouse, West Coast • Tallest lighthouse tower: Slangkop lighthouse, Cape Peninsula (100 ft / 30,5 m) museum. At nearby Bredasdorp there is a shipwreck museum with a fascinating collection of artefacts from ships that foundered off Agulhas. • Northernmost lighthouse: Jesser Point, KwaZulu-Natal • Only lighthouse on a rock: Roman Rock, False Bay, Western Cape Cape Recife lighthouse This lighthouse, at the entrance to Port Elizabeth’s Algoa Bay, was the fourth lighthouse to be commissioned by the Cape colonial government, in 1851. The tower is octagonal in shape and since 1929 has been painted in black and white • Only female lightkeeper: Mrs Coward, St Lucia lighthouse, KwaZulu-Natal (1940s) • Most unique colour: Cape Vidal lighthouse, KwaZulu-Natal (yellow) bands, although it was initially red and white. The original optic apparatus is still in use, and includes a red sector that Author: Sue Matthews September 2000 FURTHER INFORMATION: • Portnet Lighthouse Services, Cape Town. tel. (021) 449 5171, fax 449 3663. • Williams, H. 1993. Southern Lights: Lighthouses of southern Africa. William Waterman Publications, Rivonia. RELATED FACTSHEETS: • Safety at Sea • Ocean Hazards • Our Coast: A National Heritage For more information, please contact: The Coastal Management Office, Marine and Coastal Management, Department of Environmental Affairs and Tourism, Private Bag X2, Roggebaai 8012, Cape Town, South Africa. Tel: +27 (0)21 402-3208 Fax: +27 (0)21 418-2582 e-mail: czm@mcm.wcape.gov.za Website: http://sacoast.wcape.gov.za P E O P L E A N D T H E C O A S T : C U LT U R E A N D H I S T O R Y Myths and Legends 2A M ythology goes far beyond the telling of tall fear, except for the lovesick girl who rushed down the shore stories; it is through myths that human into the arms of her lover. She was never seen again. minds are able to confront the mystery of the With the passing of time, the sea eroded the walls of the cliff, universe and the riddles of life. Little wonder but the hole breached by the fish remains. The amaXhosa then that South Africans of all colours and creeds who live there today call the place esiKhaleni (the place of the have stories to tell about the wonders of the sea sound); they say that on certain nights the voices of the water and seashore. These are some of them: people can still be heard as they stream through their hole on their quest for the young girl. How The Mountain Got Its Table Cloth The Legend of Hole in the Wall Xhosa mythology tells of the water or sea people, semi-deities A legend of European origin is the story of the ‘table cloth’ that frequently covers Table Mountain. It is said that the confirmed old smoker and retired pirate, Van Hunks, still haunts the clump who resemble humans but who have supple wrists and of rocks on the saddle of land that connects Table Mountain ankles and flipperlike hands and feet. They are generally kind to Devil’s Peak. Legend has it that Van Hunks, calabash pipe in people, although they have been known to be mischievous hand and a keg of the finest shag tobacco cradled between and delight in teasing mere mortals. As legend would have it, his legs, once challenged the devil to smoke more than he there was once a beautiful girl who lived in a village on the Wild could at one sitting. Together they sat, high on the mountain, Coast. Her village was situated near a large lagoon which puffing away until the sun went down over the ocean and the was cut off from the sea by a huge cliff. She was so fair that moon rose over the Tygerberg. By morning the entire top of one of the water people fell in love with her and persuaded Table Mountain was hidden beneath billowing clouds. Although her to come and live with him in the sea. But, when her angry Van Hunks grew red and sweaty, his companion was in a far father discovered this unnatural liaison he forbade her to see worse state; he finally rolled off his boulder begging for a her lover or to leave the village. One night, when the tide was drink. The devil was so angered by his defeat that, after high, the water people came to the sheer cliff which towered revealing his identity to Van Hunks, he disappeared in a great above the shores of the lagoon, bringing with them a great blaze of lightning, taking the gnarled old smoker with him. fish. Using its enormous head, this mighty creature rammed a From that day on, when the southeaster blows, those who gaping hole in the wall, and through this breach poured the are old and wise will look up at the tumbling white cloud and water people, singing and shouting. All the villagers hid in exclaim: ‘The devil and Van Hunks are at it again!’ Stories that wash up on beaches emblem, saying that when one finds a pansy shell one becomes part of the town. And, when a pansy shell is given as Three of the more unusual items that wash up on South African a gift, the recipient is welcomed as a special visitor to the town. beaches are so loved by beach strollers, shell collectors and even traditional healers, that they have been afforded legendary The story of the Abelungu status. These are the seabean, the paper nautilus and the The arrival of white men caused great consternation among pansy shell. some of the amaZulu people. They believed the newcomers to The glossy brown seabean is found on beaches from KwaZulu- be cannibals who had risen up out of the sea to seek human Natal to Cape Point. The bean is round, flat and shiny and quite prey ‘Here comes the white animal to eat you!’ was a threat often encrusted with coralline algae, barnacles and other marine which was guaranteed to subdue the wildest child. The story organisms. The seabean is the seed of the creeper Entada gigas of the sea animals persisted for many years as an effective which grows along river banks in the forests of Mozambique method of chastising children. The present term for white men and other parts of East Africa. To propagate itself, the creeper is still abelungu, meaning sea creatures. drops its seeds into rivers which carry them down to the sea. The legend of Old Tiptoes The seeds wash up on our beaches after spending years at sea. It is not uncommon to come across the seabean in This story originates in Kalk Bay, a fishing village curio shops where they are fashioned into necklaces or on the Cape Peninsula. Here a fishermen was even keyrings. But traditional healers value the seabean for its magical properties, using it in nicknamed ‘Old Tiptoes’ because of his peculiar Seabean manner of walking. When asked why his heels bone-throwing ceremonies and other practices. never touched the ground, he would feign deafness True nautiluses do not occur in southern African and turn away. The following story explains why… waters, but the paper nautilus, Argonauta argo, a relative of the octopus, is common in our waters. The delicate, paper-like shells of these animals fre- There lived in Kalk Bay a snoek fisherman, Gamat, Paper Nautilus quently wash up on our shores and are highly sought chosen the best of the catch to salt and eat. One night after by collectors. According to legend, the nautilus the most select of these fish, which were hung on her shells sailed on the sea like Jason’s ship the Argo – stoep to dry, was stolen, and the following night, another. hence their scientific name, Argonauta. (Jason, a figure of classical mythology, sailed a fifty-oared ship to fetch the gold- Pansy en fleece from Colchis.) It was believed that two of the animal’s long tentacles, which can be spread out into iridescent fans, were held aloft like sails to catch the breeze. and his wife, Radiwa. Gamat sold the snoek that he caught for a living, but only after his wife had shell When her snoek continued to go missing and the police were unable to catch the thief, Radiwa consulted a sorcerer called Jamut. After hearing her story Jamut pronounced that the thief would come once more, for the last time. When another snoek disappeared a few days later and The pansy shell (Echinodiscus bisperforatus) is commonly Radiwa reported this to Jamut, he asked her to accompany him found on the beaches of Plettenberg Bay and has become an to the harbour. The boats were at the jetty and the fishermen emblem for the town. The fragile shells have a perfect five-petal were unloading their catches and selling to the crowds. Jamut pansy-like design on its upper surface. The pansy shell is closely pointed out the offender to Radiwa: “There he is,” he said, related to the sea urchin. When alive it is purple in colour and “but leave him, he has already been punished.” Radiwa saw covered with short, thin spines that give it a furry appearance. a man called Wari whom she knew quite well. As she looked at When the animal dies the spines fall off and the shell is bleached him, he moved away – jerkily and on his toes. The expression white – producing the pansies that are washed onto the beach. of misery and guilt on his face made it only too clear that he The pansy shell lives in shallow lagoons, bays and estuaries was the culprit. Whatever the cause of this peculiar change in and is a prized collectors piece. The ‘sand dollar’ is a closely Wari, it is certain that he never walked normally again. related species found along the coast of California. The Plettenberg Bay tourism authorities cleverly market their town’s Author: Claire Attwood September 2000 FURTHER INFORMATION: • Miller, P. 1979. Myths and Legends of Southern Africa. T.V. Bulpin Publications (Pty) Ltd, Cape Town. RELATED FACTSHEETS: • Sea Urchins • Cephalopods • Wild Coast • Snoek For more information, please contact: The Coastal Management Office, Marine and Coastal Management, Department of Environmental Affairs and Tourism, Private Bag X2, Roggebaai 8012, Cape Town, South Africa. Tel: +27 (0)21 402-3208 Fax: +27 (0)21 418-2582 e-mail: czm@mcm.wcape.gov.za Website: http://sacoast.wcape.gov.za P E O P L E A N D T H E C O A S T : C U LT U R E A N D H I S T O R Y Population around the Coast 2A S outh Africa has one of the highest coastal population densities in Africa – about 81 people per square kilometre, compared to the average density for Africa of 55 per square kilometre. coastal dwellers were a separate ethnic group, as the San, Khoekhoe and the first black agriculturalists all made use of marine resources for at least part of the year. Some 2 000 years ago the San hunter-gatherers turned to pastoralism by acquiring livestock from Bantu tribes migrating southwards. The Khoekhoe migrated down the west coast, Historical Context where they were the first indigenous people encountered by Archaeological evidence in the form of hand axes and cleavers the Dutch settlers who colonised the Cape in 1652. On the reveal that the area now known as South Africa was populated other side of the continent, Bantu tribes who had been living in the Early Stone Age, between 2 million and 125 000 years south of the Limpopo River for the previous 1500 years ago. These stone tools are found mainly along river banks, migrated southward and eastward. The Nguni (Zulu, Xhosa, near springs, and in hollows between coastal sand dunes. Swazi and Ndebele) occupied what is now KwaZulu-Natal Tools characteristic of the Middle Stone Age, the period from and the Eastern Cape. 125 000 to 20 000 years ago, reveal that people later lived in caves along the coast. The remains of shellfish, seals and seabirds in the caves indicate that these resources were an important part of the diet of these coastal dwellers. The settlement of people from Europe and Asia increased substantially during the nineteenth century, and gave rise to expanding cities around the ports of Durban, East London, Port Elizabeth and Cape Town. In the 1860s Indian labourers During the last ice age from about 50 000 years ago there is a gap in evidence of the prehistoric occupation at the coast. This is probably because the sea level was lower and the coasts further away. About 15 000 years ago people of the Late Stone Age were utilising marine resources, as indicated by numerous shell middens along the coast. Most are located within 300 m of the high water mark, although some occur up to 5 km from the coast. While middens consist primarily of shellfish remains, arrived to work on the sugar plantations of KwaZulu-Natal. During the middle and late twentieth century, apartheid policy explicitly denied economic resources and social services to “homeland” regions and other designated black areas, leaving these regions undeveloped and with inadequate infrastructure. The economic centre of the country was concentrated in the interior, with the coastal cities playing a supportive role. they have also yielded marine and terrestrial mammal remains, The transition to a democratic Government in 1994 allowed stone artefacts, bone tools and pottery. These middens are all South Africans to enjoy equal rights of access to the coast often referred to as Strandloper sites, but it is unlikely that the and its resources. Our coast is now divided into four provinces Thirteen coastal regions defined for the purposes of the Coastal Management Policy Programme MAPUTALAND COAST: Poor rural, underdevelopment, subsistence activities. Richards Bay NAMAQUALAND: low population, semi-desert area, diamond-mining. ZULULAND COAST: Poor rural, Richards Bay port, light and heavy industry, mining, sugar-cane and timber. Durban WEST COAST: low population, arid, small fishing towns, industrial development at Saldanha Bay. Bokpunt Cape Town CAPE METRO: Dense population around Cape Town, over 2.5 million people, port in Table Bay. Port Elizabeth Mossel Bay DOLPHIN COAST: Rapidly developing region, holiday and tourism, agriculture, light industry and wood products. East London 0 AGULHAS COAST: Scenic, small growing towns, retirement centre, seasonal holiday and tourism. GARDEN ROUTE: Scenic, small growing towns, Mossgas refinery at Mossel Bay, seasonal holiday and tourism. SUNSHINE COAST: Few urban centres, undeveloped coastal areas, economic and industrial centre at Port Elizabeth. BORDER-KEI: Rural area, East London main centre, small towns and resorts. 200 400 km WILD COAST: Poor rural, few towns and resorts, subsistence agriculture and fishing, income from pensioners and migrant labourer working outside the region. DURBAN METRO: Expanding urban centre, over 2,5 million people, tourism, industry, port. HIBISCUS COAST: Coastal strip well-developed for seasonal tourism and recreation, hinterland rural, large unemployed population. – Northern Cape, Western Cape, Eastern Cape and KwaZulu- offshore reserves of natural gas, Richards Bay on the KwaZulu- Natal – but much of the present social character can be related Natal north coast and Saldanha Bay on the west coast are to the previous political divisions, namely the previously white- both specialised deep-water ports serving heavy industry. governed Cape Province and Natal Province and the former black homeland areas of Ciskei, Transkei and KwaZulu. Population and Culture Settlement Patterns Between these major cities the coast is sparsely settled, particularly on the west coast, which is a harsh, semi-desert It is currently estimated that 30% of South Africa's population bathed by the cold waters of the Benguela upwelling system. live within 60 km of the coast. According to available 1996 During holiday seasons, however, there is a large influx of census data, the South African population is made up of people and the population of coastal towns rises dramatically. approximately 38 million people, of whom about 20% live in Population density is highest on the KwaZulu-Natal coast KwaZulu-Natal, 15.5% in the Eastern Cape, 11% in the because of the relative proximity to Gauteng, as well as the Western Cape and 2% in the Northern Cape. The coastal population can be divided into four major language groups. While the west coast is mainly Afrikaans-speaking, the Eastern Cape is mainly Xhosa-speaking and KwaZulu- area’s sub-tropical climate and warm seas owing to the influence of the Agulhas current. Many coastal towns serve as holiday, tourism and recreational destinations, and homeowners are absent for most of the year. Natal mainly Zulu-speaking; English is commonly spoken in While a number of these smaller towns evolved in association urban centres along the coast. This simple breakdown does with fishing, agriculture or mining activities, most of our coast not, however, convey the rich diversity of cultures and traditions can be characterised as rural. The percentage of the population among coastal communities. Many of our coastal towns and living in rural areas in the coastal provinces is 63% in the cities are characterised by a variety of language and cultural Eastern Cape, 61% in KwaZulu-Natal, 30% in the Northern Cape and 10% in the Western Cape. Rural settlements backgrounds. include farmsteads associated with commercial agriculture, Cities and Towns and traditional housing in former ‘homeland’ areas of the Most of the coastal population is concentrated in the cities of Transkei, Ciskei and KwaZulu, where communities live in a Cape Town, Port Elizabeth, East London and Durban, which subsistence economy. together are inhabited by over 6 million people. All four cities The boom in the outdoor recreation and tourism markets are experiencing rapid population growth, their populations (non-consumptive use of resources) has led to intense interest likely to double in the next 25 to 30 years. This will result not in the development potential of the coast. In line with the only in an increase in population density, but an expansion of White Paper for Sustainable Coastal Development in South urban areas along the coast as well as inland. The cities of Africa, alternative livelihoods for coastal communities and Cape Town and Durban already serve vast hinterlands, with non-consumptive use of our rich coastal resources are given growing urbanisation. high priority by all spheres of government. Other emerging coastal cities include Saldanha Bay, Richards Bay and Mossel Bay. While Mossel Bay on the south coast has grown around its small fishing harbour and, more recently, Author: Sue Matthews February 2001 FURTHER INFORMATION: • White Paper for sustainable Coastal Development in South Africa, 2000. Department of Environmental Affairs & Tourism • Lubke, R.A. & de Moor, I. (Eds) 1998. Field Guide to the Eastern & Southern Cape Coasts. University of Cape Town Press. http://sacoast.wcape.gov.za RELATED FACTSHEETS: • National Coastal Policy • Development along the Coast • Tourism along the Coast • Value of the Coast • Strandlopers and Shell Middens • Impacts of Human Activity on the Coast For more information, please contact: The Coastal Management Office, Marine and Coastal Management, Department of Environmental Affairs and Tourism, Private Bag X2, Roggebaai 8012, Cape Town, South Africa. Tel: +27 (0)21 402-3208 Fax: +27 (0)21 418-2582 e-mail: czm@mcm.wcape.gov.za Website: http://sacoast.wcape.gov.za