Cosmetology
Mayer page 558
“the study of beautifying and improving the complexion, skin, hair, and nails”

Purposes









Klicker page 167
1) replace coloring
2) compensate for FH lighting
3) well-groomed appearance
4) create a comforting memory picture
5) accent or de-emphasize features
6) harmonize complexion coloring with clothing, casket interior etc.
7) conceal discolorations
8) match wax with complexion color

Naturalism in Cosmetology
Ornamental Cosmetology
Klicker page 169

Pigments of the Skin


Klicker page 170; Mayer page 565
1) melanin: “brown to black-brown pigment in the epidermis and hair

2) carotene: “yellow pigment of the skin”

3) hemoglobin: “oxygenated blood of the arteries which influences the color of the skin by way of its presence in the superficial capillaries”

Complexion


Klicker page 170; Mayer page 565
Types/Classifications: light, medium, dark and darker

Variations: red, yellow, brown

Deviations: bronze, purple, yellow, green, gray, and yellow-brown

Matching Complexions Using Basic
Pigments





Klicker page 169
1) yellow
2) red
3) brown
4) white

Types of External Color


Klicker page 168; Mayer page 569-570
1) Transparent

2) Translucent

3) Opaque

Methods of Applying Color

Klicker page 168

1) internal

2) external/surface application

Spray cosmetic application: Klicker p. 194-196

Reduction of Density
Mayer page 568
Cosmetic Application at Hair
Regions

Corrective Shaping
Klicker page 187
Highlighting or Shadowing
Cosmetics

Highlighting or Shadowing

“application of a color which is lighter or brighter than the complexion would highlight the complexion; application of a color darker than the complexion color would shadow the complexion”

Shadowing









Klicker page 183; Mayer pages 574-575
Eye Shadow
Orbital Cavity
Forehead
Nasolabial Folds
Cheekbone
Mouth
Chin
Dimples


Forehead

Nose

Chin
Highlighting

Warm Color Areas


Klicker page 175; Mayer page 572, 582-52
Face: cheeks, chin, ears, lips (mucous membranes), lower parts of the nose and forehead

Hands: knuckles, fingernails, cuticles

Corrective Shaping of the Lips


Klicker page 188
Thickening the Lips

Widening the Lips

Thinning the Lips

Narrowing the Lips

Coloring the Lips

Natural Effect: Youthful
Adult
Old-age
Crimson Lip Color

Ornamental Effect

Rouges and Rouging
Klicker page 167; Mayer page 572
Proper rouge application and color selection constitute two of the most important phases of mortuary cosmetology

Purpose





Replace the blood-color on nude skin.
Create a florid or ruddy complexion.
Combat absorptive effect of illumination.
Re-instate warm color areas.
Correctively shape the cheeks and lips.

Classifications





Klicker page 168
Liquid: transparent, opaque
Cream
Powder
Lip

Natural Rouging








Klicker page 168; Mayer page 573
From youth to middle-age, and then to old-age, the color drops lower and lower on the cheeks.
Infants
Children
Adolescents
Young Adults
Middle Age Adults
Aged Adults

Ornamental Rouging



Violates the “rules” of natural coloring.
Rouge is blended laterally from the zygomatic bone to the side of the face.
Do not apply rouge on the front plane of the face, next to the nose, or the nasolabial fold.

Lip Rouging Techniques
Klicker page 169

1) lining and filling

2) vertical brush application

3) horizontal brush application