Sport Studies, Recreation & Athletics 338
Improvised Rock Rescue Systems
Fall 2011
Weekly class starting Oct 18th:
Tuesdays 4:00-7:00pm
Location: Climbing Wall
Instructor: Brien Sheedy
Office: Outdoor Program, RCC 209 Reid Campus Center
Phone: 509-386-4375
E-mail: sheedybr@whitman.edu
Prerequisites:
SSRA 238 (Intermediate Climbing) and/or SSRA 387 (Advanced Climbing) and/or
CWI (Climbing Wall Instructor Course.
Class Objective
This course is designed to train skilled lead climbers in improvised self-rescue
systems for technical rock climbing. It is useful for both singe pitch and multi-pitch
climbers. It is especially useful for instructors and advanced climbers to help them
both analyze and mitigate potential hazards and problems. It will also enable them
to initiate self-rescue through a variety of tried and true systems that can be
combined in various ways. Ascension systems, escaping the belay, passing a knot,
lowering systems, raising systems, counterbalance rappels, assisted rappels, and
other rescue concepts will be covered.
Climbing Ability:
People in this class should already have their lead climb and belay certification at the
Whitman Climbing Center before the course starts. Intermediate climbing, Advanced
climbing and/or CWI preferred.
Class Requirements
Attendance is required for all classes and activities. This course is a 1 credit class
and will be graded:
25% Class attendance and participation
10% Quiz 1 (assisting the leader to lower self rescue, pick offs, transfer from
autolocking device in top belay mode to lower)
10% Quiz 2 (passing a knot during fixed rope ascention and then while rappelling,
various rappel techniques)
5% Quiz 3 21 foot sling harness, chest harnesses, bowline on a coil, split coil rescue,
25% Midterm (5 min knot pass, counterbalance rappels, tandem rappels)
25% Final Exam (45min AMGA rescue test)
Fee
$50
Required equipment: (Available for purchase or rent from the Climbing Center)
UIAA/CE Approved climbing harness with belay loop
UIAA/CE Approved helmet (can be borrowed from OP if you do not own one yet)
2 cordalettes (at least one should be 20-21ft long and be 7mm)
5 locking carabiners (pearabiners are preferred for munter hitches)
6 non-locking carabiners
4 slings (webbing or cord, including a “mini” prussik loop)
1 tube-type belay device, or a combination belay/autoblocking device such as the
reverso, trango B52 or Guide ATC. Cordalletes should be 6-7mm nylon minimum
climbing shoes and/or approach shoes in which you can lead
1 small cheap pocket notebook that can fit in back pocket
OPTIONAL:
Rescue Items (Salvation on a sling): small knife, 1 roll athletic tape, small LED light,
1 rappel ring, 1-2 quick links
Required Text:
Self Rescue- By Fasulo
Optional Text:
Climbing Self Rescue: Improvising Solutions for Serious Situations – By Andy Tyson
and Molly Loomis
Optional Videos available for viewing in Climbing Center
Avoiding the Touch: Self Rescue Part 1 with Allen Jolley
Moving Faster with Allen Jolley
Books available in Penrose library:
AMGA Technical Manual
Climbing Anchors – Long
Self Rescue - Fasulo
Books available in the OP:
Knots and Ropes for Climbers – By Duane Raleigh
Advanced Rock Climbing- John Long and Craig Luebben
Self-Rescue- David Fasulo
Class 1 –
Intros/names, Waivers, Lead climb and belay card check, syllabus,
Anchor review: Quad rig, equallette, prerig cordallette; webbing anchor techniques
assisting the leader to lower self rescue demo & practice
Class 2–
Friction hitch review, pick offs, fix rope ascention options
Using a reverso for fixed rope ascention.
Garda hitch
transfer from autolocking device in top belay mode to lower
Class 3
Quiz 1
Various alternative rappel techniques & backup methods (3rd hand, fireman’s,
separate belay)
Rappeling anchors demo & discussion: Leaver biners and making locker biners with
tape
Weld abrasion demo
Rappel options: 5 & 6 carabiner break, munter hitch, figure eight, gri gri and cinch
usage , plate type devices (atc, reverso, tuber, ect)
passing a knot during fixed rope ascention and then while rappelling
21 foot sling harness, chest harnesses, bowline on a coil, split coil rescue,
Blocking knots; munter mule combo review
Class 4
5 min knot pass demo and practice,
Quiz 2 + 3
counterbalance rappels,
tandem rappels
Knot and system review
Introduction to baseline
waist belay to baseline (video, demo, then practice time)
Class 5
Midterm: 5 mi. knot pass exam
(Video & demos)
A. Progressions to baseline from:
1. A waist belay to baseline (video, demo, then practice time)
2. A re-directed belay to baseline (video, demo, then practice time)
3. Directly from the anchor to baseline (video, demo, then practice time)
Class 6
Hauling systems, 3:1 raises, 5:1 raises, 6:1 raises
Systems review and combining systems
Getting from baseline to other rescue options
Systems review and combining systems
TBA
Final Exam Review (45min AMGA rescue test)
Last Class: Dec 6
Final Exam (45min AMGA rescue test)
3:30-4pm setup
4-5pm
3 people take test
5-6pm
3 people take test
6-7pm
3 people take test
Prerequisites: Folks are expected to know the following at the start of the
course. These will be reviewed but prior knowledge is expected)
Knots & Rope handling:
Basic knots: Overhand series (overhand, overhand on bight, overhand bend (water
knot), overhand follow through); Figure eight series (Figure eight, Figure eight on
bight, Figure eight bend (flemish knot), Figure eight follow through);
Advanced knots: Blocking knot (mule knot), Munter/mule combo, Bowline,
Bowline on a coil, Double loop bowline, Double “super” bowline, Super eight,
Stopper knot, Double fisherman’s, Triple fisherman’s, converting a munter to a
clove, super munter, BHK
Hitches: Prussic hitch, Auto block hitch, Mariners hitch, Kliemhiest hitch,
Bachman’s, Pemberthy hitch, Pemberthy bowline, Clove hitch, Munter hitch
Rope management: Stacking, throwing, butterfly coil, mountaineer’s coil, belay
station management techniques, Block and tackle