Using Lip Color

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Chapter 24 – 12’
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Emphasize most attractive features/accents
Minimize less attractive features/flaws
For most people makeup should be subtle
Application will vary from person to person
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Structure of the face
Color of eyes, skin and hair
How the client wants to look
Results that can be achieved realistically
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Foundation
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Used as a base or protective film applied before
makeup and/or powder
Evens out skin tone
Conceals minor imperfections
Protects skin from the climate, dirt and debris
Oil based - normal to dry skin types
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Liquid, stick, cream-to-powder, tinted moisturizers
Water based – oily skin types
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Water based liquid, cream-to-powder, or powder –
matte finish
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Color primer – applied before foundation to
cancel out & disguise skin discoloration
Green – redness
Lavender – sallow or yellowish
Amber – dark purplish
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Cream –
Dry to normal skin
 Medium to full coverage
 Oil-based
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Liquid –
Oily to normal skin
 Sheer to medium coverage
 Matte finish
 Water-based
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Powder –
Oily skin
 Dry to powdery finish
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Success of the entire makeup application
depends on the correct color selection and
application of the foundation
Skin tone determines foundation color
Test at jawline
Too light – dull chalky
Too dark – muddy or splotchy
Line of demarcation – obvious line where
foundation starts or stops
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Classified as warm, cool, neutral
Warm
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Cool
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Blue, blue-green (olive), blue-red (pink),
Neutral
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Yellow, orange, red-orange
Equal amounts of warm and cool tones
FYI – page 759
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Foundation should always match as closely as
possible to the actual skin tone
Apply at jawline to get the best match
possible
Color should “disappear”
Remove from container with a sanitized
spatula
Applied to the face with a sponge
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Mineral Foundation
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Applied with a large fluffy brush
Kabuki Brush
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Used to cover blemishes and discolorations,
dark eye circles, dark splotches and may be
applied before or after foundation
Contain more talc or pigment for heavier
coverage
Available in pots, pencils, wands, and tubes or
sticks
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Wide range of colors
Contain
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Moisture or control oil, treat acne and oiliness,
anti-aging and moisturizing benefits
Here’s a Tip Page 760 -
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Pots are the heaviest and provide most
coverage
Pencil gives a sheer to medium coverage and
may contain some moisture
Wand is usually sponge or brush tipped, fluid
consistency
Tube or stick medium to sheer and may be
used as a foundation
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Chemical composition is similar to cream
foundation
Removed from container with a spatula and
applied with a sponge or brush
Place sparingly over blemishes and blend with
sponge
It is IMPORTANT to match color to skin as
close as possible!
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If too light can appear “raccoon –like” and draw
attention to problems
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A fine cosmetic powder, sometimes tinted and
scented
Used to add a matte finish
Improves overall attractiveness by enhancing
skin’s natural color, helping to conceal minor
blemishes and discolorations and toning down
excessive color and shine
Used to set the foundation
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Absorb excess oil
Minimizes shine of oily skin
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Loose and pressed
Powder base mixed with a coloring agent and
sometimes perfume
Bactericides are added to inhibit the growth of
bacteria and preserve the product (powder)
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Talc or cornstarch with color pigments added
Translucent – do not contain much color
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Light and medium weights - dry to normal skin
types
Heavier weight – normal to oily
Powder should match well with the natural skin
tone and work well with the foundation
Should never appear caked, spotted, or streaked
Apply using a fresh cotton puff remove excess
with brush
Pressed – compact and easy to carry for quick
touch-ups
Loose is best for use at home
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Blush, blusher, rouge
Cream, liquid, dry (pressed) or loose powder
used to color the cheeks beneath the cheek
bone (zygomatic)
Gives natural glow to the face and helps to
create more attractive facial contours
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Oil based formulas – combinations of
pigments in an oil or fat base
Blends of waxes and oily liquids create a
water-resistant product
Cream – contain water, thickeners and
surfactants that enable particles to penetrate
hair follicles and cracks
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Cream or gel – dry to normal skin - applied
with facial sponge
Liquid – all skin types – blends well – applied
with facial sponge
Dry (pressed) – matte finish – most widely
used – applied with a cotton puff or brush
Loose powder - variety of shades – applied
with brush or cotton puff
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Apply cheek color where natural color would
normally appear
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(remember the triangle – outside corner of eye to
corner of nose to top of ear – draw in book
bottom of pp. 760)
Do not extend color above the outer corner of
eye
Do not apply in bright round circle – blend
color so it softly fades into foundation
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Lipstick or lip gloss
Cosmetic paste usually in a tube
Variety of colors
Color the lips
Enhance or correct the shape of the lips
Some contain sunscreen
Moisturizers help to keep the lips becoming
dry and cracked
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Creams, glosses, pencils, gels, sticks
All are formulas of oils, waxes, and dyes
Castor oil is the primary ingredient
Color agents
Waxes
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Artistry and a keen sense of fashion needed to
select appropriate colors
Consider the client’s preferences, eye color,
skin tone, and lip shade
Apply directly from the tube ONLY IF IT
BELONGS TO THE CLIENT!
Otherwise apply with disposable lip brush
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Begin at outer corner of the upper lip and
work towards the middle – repeat on opposite
side
Connect the center peaks using rounded
strokes following natural lip line
Repeat on bottom lip working from corners in
and connecting in the middle
Aim for symmetry and balance
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Colored pencil used to outline lips
Helps to keep lip color from feathering or
bleeding
Usually applied before lip color to ensure
proper shape and definition of the lips
Chose color on fashion trends or one that
compliments and coordinates with lip color
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Sharpen pencil and wipe with clean tissue
before and after each use
Sanitize sharpener after each use
Line lips beginning at corner of upper lip and
work toward the middle
Repeat on opposite side
Connect the center peaks with rounded
strokes, following the natural lip line
Outline the lower lip from the corners in
Apply liner to lips for color staying power
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Applied to the eyelids to accentuate or
contour
Variety of colors
Used wet or dry
Finishes – metallic, matte, frost, shimmer, or
dewy
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Stick and cream - water based with oil
Water – resistant have a solvent base (mineral
spirits)
Pressed and dry – compressed with binders so
as not to fall apart
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Makes eye appear brighter and more
expressive
Matching shadow color and eye color creates
a flat field of color and should be avoided
Use colors other than eye color - contrasting
or complimentary
Light and dark colors can bring attention to
the eyes
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Darker shades make iris appear lighter
Lighter shades make iris appear deeper
Makeup selection should enhance client’s
eyes
Color choices should be subtle for daytime
Colors may match and coordinate with client’s
clothing
Referred to as highlight, base, and contour
colors
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Highlight lighter than skin tone and may have
any finish
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Lighter color will appear larger
Base color is generally a medium tone close to
skin tone
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Used to even skin tone
Applied all over the lid and brow bone, from lash
to brow
Other colors applied after, providing a smooth
blending
Matte finish is usually preferred
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Contour color, in any finish, is deeper and
darker than skin tone
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Applied to minimize a specific area
To create contour in a crease
Define the eyelash line
Remove with spatula and apply with fresh
applicator or clean brush
Remove and apply with unused disposable
brush
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Apply close to lashes, sweeping color slightly
upward and outward
Blend
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Focus On 
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761
762
763
Here’s a Tip –
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764
765
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Used to outline and emphasize the eyes
Variety of colors
Pencil, liquid, pressed (cake), felt tip pen
Create a line close to lashes to make eyes
appear larger and lashes fuller
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Pencils have wax (paraffin) or hardened oil
base (petrolatum)
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Soft and hard form
Used on both upper and lower lids
Liquid and cake
Caution Box PP 764
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Most prefer color same color as lashes or
mascara for a more natural look
More dramatic colors may be chosen
depending on trends and own style
Apply with extreme caution
Have a steady hand and make sure the client
remains still
Sharpen with pencil and wipe with tissue
before and after each use
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Sanitize sharpener before and after each use
Apply in short strokes and gentle pressure,
close to the lash line
Powder application – scrape a small amount
onto a tissue and apply with a disposable
applicator
Wet the brush first for a more dramatic look
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Eyebrow pencils or shadows are used to add
color and shape to the eyebrows
Darken the eyebrows
Correct their shape
Fill in sparse areas
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Similar to eyeliner pencil
Ingredients in eyebrow shadow similar to eye
shadow
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Sharpen with sharpener and wipe clean with
tissue before and after each use
Sanitize sharpener before and after each use
Powder shadow application – scrape a small
amount onto a tissue and apply with a
disposable applicator
Avoid harsh contrasts between hair and
eyebrow color
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Used to darken, define and thicken the
eyelashes
Liquid, cake, and cream form
Variety of shades and tints
Brushes (wands) can be curved or straight
with fine or thick bristles
Enhances natural lashes, making them appear
longer and fuller
Lashes should be darker than eyebrows
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Polymer products
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Water, waxes, thickeners, film-formers, and
preservatives
Pigments
Rayon or nylon fibers to lengthen and thicken hair
fibers
Pigments – must inert
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Unable to combine with other elements
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Used on both upper and lower lashes
Apply from inner to outer corners
Dispose of wand
NEVER DOUBLE DIP!!!!!!!
Apply carefully
Most common in jury is poking the eye with
the applicator
Curl lashes before applying mascara
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Eye makeup removers – used to remove
makeup
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Oil based - are generally mineral oil with
fragrance added
Water based – are a water solution to which other
solvents have been added
Plain soap and water is sometimes ineffective
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Grease paint – heavy makeup used for
theatrical purposes
Cake or pancake makeup –
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Shaped, solid mass applied to the face with a
moistened sponge
Gives good coverage and used to cover scars and
pigmentation defects
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Powder brush – large, soft to apply powder
and blend edges of color
Blush brush – smaller more tapered brush
used for applying blush
Concealer brush – narrow, firm with a flat
edge
Lip brush – narrow, firm with a tapered edge
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Eye shadow brushes – variety of sizes – small
to large, soft – firm
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The softer and larger the brush the more diffused
and blended the shadow will be
A firm brush is better for depositing dense color
than for blending
Eyeliner brush – firm, tapered, firm bristles
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Angle brush – firm, thin bristles
Lash and brow brush – comb-like brush used
to remove excess mascara on lashes or to
comb brow into place
Tweezers – metal or plastic - used to remove
excess facial hair
Eyelash curler – metal or plastic used to give
lift and upward curl to upper lashes
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Commercial sanitizer can be used for quick
cleaning
Spraying cleaner over a long period of time
can dry out brushes
A gentle shampoo or brush solvent should be
used
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Will not hurt bristles and may help them last
longer
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Caution: - the brush should always be put into
running or still water with the ferrule pointed
down
If brushes are pointing up- water may remove
the glue holding the bristles in place
Rinse brushes thoroughly after cleansing
Brushes will dry in the shape they are left in
Reshape wet bristles and lay flat to dry
State Regulatory Alert - 766
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Sponges
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variety of shapes and sizes
Apply and blend foundation
Powder or cotton puffs – velour or cotton –
used to apply and blend powder
Mascara wand – plastic – one use only!
Spatulas
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wooden or plastic
Wide, flat base
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Disposable lip brushes – one time use only!
Sponge-tipped shadow applicators – apply
shadow and lip color or to blend eyeliner
Cotton swabs – apply shadow, blend eyeliner,
remove unwanted makeup from eyes or lips
Cotton pads or puffs – apply astringents or
makeup removers, apply powder products
Pencil sharpener – used before and after each
application of pencil cosmetics
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Everyone sees colors differently
It may take awhile for you to see color
naturally and easily
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Primary colors – cannot be obtained from a
mixture
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Blue
Red
yellow
Secondary colors – mix equal parts of two (2)
primary colors
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Orange
Green
violet
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Tertiary colors – mix an equal a mount of a
primary and the adjacent secondary colors
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Red-orange
Orange-yellow
Yellow-green
Green-blue
Blue-violet
Violet-red
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Complementary colors – primary and
secondary colors opposite each other on the
color wheel
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Red – green (Christmas)
Yellow – violet (Easter)
Blue – orange (almost Halloween)
These colors cancel each other out to make a
neutral brown or gray
When next to each other they look brighter
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Warm –
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Red
Yellow
orange
Cool –
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Blue
Green
violet
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Three main factors
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Skin color
Eye color
Hair color
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1st
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Light
Medium
dark
2nd
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Warm
Cool
Neutral - equal amounts of warm/cool
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Warm colors
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Yellow and gold
Oranges
Red-orange
Most reds
Some yellow-greens
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Cool colors
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Blues
Greens
Violets
Blue-reds
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Reds
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Orange based – warm
Blue based - cool
Greens
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More gold – warm
More blue - cool
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Light skin color
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Medium skin color
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Light tones – soft natural look
Medium to dark tones – more dramatic look
Medium tones – understated look
Dark or light tones – striking and vivid
Dark skin color
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Dark tones – most subtle
Medium to medium-light tones- striking and vivid
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Be cautious choosing tones lighter than the
skin
If too light skin will appear gray or chalky
Look for translucent or shimmery colors
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Neutrals will always be safest choice
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Have both warm/cool
Work well on any skin tone, eye color, or hair color
By contrasting eye color with complementary
colors – emphasize the color most effectively
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Blue eyes – orange
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Contains yellow and red
Make eyes look bluer
Gold, warm orange/brown
 peach, and copper
Red-browns
 mauves and plum
Neutrals
 taupe or camel
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Green eyes – red
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Red shadows tend to make the eye look tired or
bloodshot
Pure red tones not recommended
Brown-based reds
 Red-orange, red-violet,
 Coppers, rusts, pinks, plums, mauves, purples
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Brown eyes – neutral
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Any color
Contrasting colors
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Greens, blues, grays, silvers
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Coordinate with same color family as the eye
makeup
Choose neutrals – coordinate with any
makeup colors
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Hair color needs to be taken into account
when determining eye makeup colors
Table 771 Table 24 – 2
Here’s A Tip page 771
1. Determine skin level: dark, medium, light
2. Determine skin undertone: warm, cool,
neutral
3. Determine eye color: blue, green, brown etc.
4. Determine complementary colors
5. Determine hair color: warm, cool
6. Choose eye makeup colors based on
complementary or contrasting colors
7. Coordinate cheek and lip colors within the
same color family: warm, cool neutral
8. Apply Makeup
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Listen closely and try not to impose your own
opinions
Your role is:
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To hear your client’s wishes
Concerns
To make recommendations based on your
knowledge
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Clean
Tidy
Clean brushes after each use
Tidy makeup area daily
Portfolio - your own pictures
Magazine layouts
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Adequate and flattering
Be sure client’s face is evenly lit without dark
shadows
Natural light best choice
Combination of incandescent (warm and most
flattering) and fluorescent (cool)
Make sure light shine directly and evenly on
the face
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Visually assess client to understand their
personal style
Engaging the client in conversation will help
determine their needs
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Skin conditions
How much or how little is normally worn
Daily versus special occasion makeup
Amount of time spent applying makeup
Colors likes or dislikes
Any makeup the client is having trouble with
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Here’s a tip - Page 774 & 775
Time for you to work your magic
Subdued lighting:
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More definition for eyes, cheeks, and lips
Add drama by applying false eyelashes and shimmery
colors on eyes, lips, cheeks or complexion
Wedding:
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Matte colors are recommended
Shimmer may reflect too much light
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Striking contour eyes
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Page 773
Dramatic Smoky Eyes
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Pages 773 - -774
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Use darker blush under cheekbones to add
definition
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Add brighter, lighter color to apples of cheeks and
blend
Use cheek color with shimmer or glitter over
cheekbones for highlight
1. Apply lip liner to, fill in lip line with pencil, and
blot
2. Add similar color in lipstick over entire lip area
3. Apply gloss to the center of the lips
Activity: color faces
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All faces are interesting in their own special
way, but few are perfect
These tiny imperfections can make the face
more interesting if treated artfully
Facial makeup can create the illusion of better
balance and proportion when desired
Caution box
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Basic rule for makeup is that highlighting
emphasizes a feature and shadowing
minimizes it
A highlight is produced when a cosmetic,
usually foundation is lighter than the original
foundation is used on the a particular part of
the face
A shadow is formed when the foundation is
darker than the original color
The use of shadows minimizes prominent
features so that they are less noticeable
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Emphasize attractive features and minimize
less attractive
Goal of effective makeup is to enhance the
client’s individuality, not to “remake” her
image according to some ideal standard
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Face is divided into three (3) equal horizontal
sections (pp. 775 figure 24-21)
1st – 1/3 hairline to top of the eyebrows
2nd – 1/3 top of eyebrows to the end of the nose
3rd – 1/3 end of nose to the bottom of the chin
Oval face is approximately ¾ as wide as it is long
Distance between the eyes is the width of one
eye
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Broader in proportion to its length
Rounding chin and hairline
Makeup applied to:
 slenderize
 lengthen the face
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Comparatively straight lines
Wide forehead
Square jawline
Corrective makeup applied to:
 offset the squareness
 soften the hard lines
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Jaw is wider than forehead
Corrective makeup is applied to:
 create width at the forehead
 Slenderize the jaw
 Add length to the face
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Wide forehead and narrow pointed chin
Corrective makeup applied to:
 minimize width of forehead
 Increase width of jawline
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Narrow forehead
Greatest width is at cheekbones (zygomatic
bones)
Corrective makeup applied to:
 reduce width across cheekbone
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Greater length in proportion to its width than
the square or round face
It is long and narrow
Corrective makeup is applied to:
 Create illusion of width across cheekbone
(zygomatic bone)
 Making the face appear shorter
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Low forehead
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Protruding forehead
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Application of lighter foundation lends a broader
appearance between brows and hairline
Apply a darker foundation over prominent area to
give an illusion of fullness to the rest of the face
Suitable hairstyle will also draw attention
away from the forehead
FYI – page 776
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Large or protruding nose
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Darker foundation on the nose
Lighter foundation on the cheeks at the sides of the
nose
Creates fullness in the cheeks and makes nose appear
smaller
Avoid cheek color on nose
Short or flat nose
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Lighter foundation down center of nose
Makes nose appear longer and larger
If nostrils are wide apply darker foundation to both
sides of nostrils
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Broad nose
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Darker foundation on sides of nose and nostrils
Avoid darker foundation on laugh lines - it will
accentuate them
Carefully blend foundation to avoid visible lines
Protruding chin and receding nose
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Shadow chin with darker foundation
Highlight nose with lighter foundation
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Receding chin
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Highlight chin with lighter foundation
Sagging double chin
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Use darker foundation on the sagging portion
Use natural skin tone foundation on the face
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Blend foundation onto the neck so the client’s
color is consistent from face to neck
Set with translucent powder to avoid transfer
onto client's clothing
Broad jawline
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Apply darker shade of foundation over heavy area
of jaw – starting at the temples
This will minimize the lower part of the face and
create an illusion of width in the upper part of the
face
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Narrow jawline
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Highlight by using a lighter foundation shade
Round, square, or triangular face
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Apply a darker shade of foundation over the
prominent part of the jawline
By creating a shadow over this area the prominent
part will appear softer and more oval
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Small face and short, thick neck
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Darker foundation on the neck
Will make the neck appear thinner
Long thin neck
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Lighter shade of foundation on the neck
This will create fullness and counteract the long
thin appearance of the neck

Round eyes


Lengthen by extending eye shadow beyond the
outer corner of the eyes
Close-set eyes (closer than length of one eye)

Lightly apply shadow up from outer edge of the
eye

Protruding or bulging eyes
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
Minimized by blending shadow carefully over the
prominent part of the upper lid
Carrying it lightly toward the brows
Use a medium to deep shadow color
Heavy-lidded eyes

Shadow evenly and lightly across the lid from the
edge of the eyelash line to the small crease in the
eye socket

Small eyes
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
Wide-set eyes


Extend the shadow slightly above, beyond, and
below the eyes
Apply shadow on the upper inner side of the
eyelid toward the nose and blend carefully
Dark circles under eyes


Apply concealer over dark area, blending and
smoothing into surrounding area
Set with translucent powder

Deep-set eyes



Use bright, light, reflective colors
Use the lightest color in the crease
Light to medium color sparingly on the lid and
brow bone




Well-groomed eyebrows are a part of the
complete and effective makeup application
The eyebrow is the frame for the eye
Overgrown eyebrows can cast a shadow on
the brow bone or between the eyebrows
Over-tweezed eyebrows can make the face
look puffy or protruding, or may give the eyes
a surprised look


Remove all unnecessary hairs and demonstrate
how to use an eyebrow pencil
Ideal eyebrow shape can be drawn in three (3)
lines



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Page 781 Figure 24-53
1st – vertical from corner of nose to inner corner
of the eye (eyebrow begins)
2nd – corner of the nose to the outer corner of the
eye ( eyebrow ends)
3rd – vertical from the outer center of the iris
(highest part of the arch)

Low forehead


Wide-set eyes



Low arch gives more height to a very low forehead
Extend the eyebrow line to the inner corners of
the eye
Be careful not to give a frowning look
Close-set eyes

Widen the distance between the eyebrows and
slightly extend them outward

Round face



Long face



Arch the brows high to make face appear narrow
Start directly above the inside corner of the eye and
extend to the end of the cheekbone
Make the eyebrows almost straight can create the
illusion of a shorter face
Do not extend the brows farther than the outside
corners of the eye
Square face


Face will appear oval if the arch is high on the ends of
the eyebrow
Begin directly above the corners of the eyes and
extend them outward



Contain fiber to make lashes look longer &
fuller
Built into mascara or separate product
Prescription drug “Latisse®”


Lips are usually proportioned so that the
curves or peaks of the upper lip fall directly in
line with the nostrils
Lip Figures

Ruddy skin





Red, wind-burned or affected by rosacea
Apply a yellow or green foundation to affected
areas blending carefully
Apply a light layer of foundation with a yellow
base over entire complexion
Set with a translucent or yellow-based powder
Avoid red or pink blushes

Sallow skin




Skin that has a yellowish hue
Apply pink based foundation on the affected areas
and blend carefully into the jaw and neck
Set with translucent powder
Avoid yellow-based colors for eyes, cheeks, and
lips



Age lines and wrinkles due to dry skin can be
minimized with a foundation
Apply the foundation sparingly and evenly in a
light, outward, circular motion
Care should be taken to remove any
foundation that collects in lines and wrinkles


Clients with sparse lashes and clients who
want to enhance their eyes for special
occasions are most likely going to request this
service
The objective is to make the client’s own
lashes look fuller, longer and more attractive
without appearing unnatural (unless the
occasion calls for dramatic or enhanced look)

Band lashes - Strip lashes


Individual lashes


Eyelash hairs on a strip that are applied with
adhesive to the natural lash line
Separate artificial eyelashes that are applied to
the eyelids one at a time
Eyelash adhesive

Product used to make artificial eyelashes adhere
or stick to the natural lash line





Procedures pp. 787 - 788
Caution box pp. 783
Human hair, mink hair or synthetic fibers
Synthetic fibers are made with a curl will not
react to the weather
Variety of colors




Commercial preparations
Lash base may be softened by applying a face
cloth or cotton pad saturated with warm
water and a gentle facial cleanser
Starting from the outer corner, remove the
lashes carefully to avoid pulling out client’s
own lashes
Use cotton tips to remove any makeup and
adhesive remaining on the eyelid




Synthetic
Attached directly to client's own lashes
Eye tabbing
Follow mfg. directions

Pp. 783
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
Page 784 - 786
Caution box – Page 786
Service Tip 784
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