The Fashion Industry Fashion & Interior Design Mrs. Wagner The Role of Fashion Designers Work at different levels Some national & world recognition Others assist high level designers or work with existing designs Specialization is common – swimwear, lingerie, bridal gowns, children’s clothing Must be aware of target market High Fashion Designers – “Name Designers” Influential in establishing fashionable looks for a season Some own their own firm or financed by partners Others – Ralph Lauren – are publicly owned companies listed on stock exchange The companies of high-fashion designers are called Fashion Houses Some have special style or look – RL – Classic, Hilfiger, Casual, street smart Collections 2-4 times a year designers turn out a collection – group of clothes designed or produced for a specific season – 50-70 items Different collections for different customers – women, men, etc. May also have different price range – designer, better, moderate Top designers – responsible for most of the company’s creative decisions Search for new ideas, design garments, choose fabric & colors & establish an image, set prices, meet with buyers & clients & promote the fashions Approve the licenses of other products that are sold under their name Apparel Industry Designers Most don’t have name recognition Work for garment manufacturers that provide clothing for a brand or store label Do create original designs Stylists Adapt designs created by others, often High Fashion Designers By adapting – produce less expensive versions – Knock Offs – Choose less expensive fabric & change some details Must understand - garment construction - Manufacturing Process - Firms production capabilities - Work closely with buyers of major stores Freelance Designers Work independently selling original designs or adaptations Self-employed – not involved in manufacturers business decisions Business of Designing Create hundreds of styles – most never make it to store “A Designer is only as good as his last collection” – customer makes the final decision Success once depended on high prices – not inexpensive – just as fashionable – mix & match – exp. With less exp. The Design Process Step 1 Idea Art exhibits, theater productions, movies, newspapers, magazines, travel, ethnicity New fabrics, textures, patterns, prints – trims, fasteners Step 2 - Sketching Makes a sketch – very rough with little detail – some drawn on body silhouette – may add color Croquis (Kro-KEY) – preliminary sketch as it is developed it begins to get details – yokes, pockets, collars, etc. Step 3 - Draping Some do instead of sketching Draping – arranging fabric into graceful folds & attractive lines. Some use live models See silhouette, proportion, details longer than sketching Step 4 – Selecting Fabric & Trims Swatch of fabric & trim is attached to each design sketch Step 5 – Making Sample Garments Develop Pattern Sloper – preliminary pattern is made which fits a certain body shape Pattern is made – sewn together – tried out - revised Designer Collections Were specifically made for clients Couture (Koo-TOOR) – french word for dressmaking – designing, making & selling of high fashion clothing Haute Couture (oht koo-TOOR) – High Fashion – most fashionable, expensive & exclusive designer clothing – Cost thousands of dollars Atelier – designers workroom - hand sewing Fabrics – finest available, sometimes one of a kind or created exclusively for the designer – very few people can afford Fashion Babies 1700’s dolls dressed in detailed copies of Queen Marie Antoinette’s latest clothes Dressmakers in London used dolls to duplicate the style, fabric & construction details Couturier- designers who make custom made clothing – copied the idea & sent dolls to copy – was popular until newspapers & fashion magazines Charles Worth - 1845 1st Designer to present gowns on live models 1st Designer to sell samples to US to be copied 1st to market perfume under his own name Father of Haute Couture Fashion Capitals Paris – significant fashion always started in Paris until the end of WWII US started using more American Designers and started having an influence on other countries Fashion Shows 2 times a year July – Fall/Winter January – Spring/Summer Paris, NY, Milan – High Fashion Designers Collections – London, Tokyo, Montreal Designer Ready to Wear US started Pret-a-Porter – Deluxe ready to wear – French couture house present 2 collections a year More practical – not as expensive – fabrics not as unique – no hand sewing Sold in Major dept. Stores Top designers in NY, Milan, etc. hold showings as well – retailers come Licensing Giving legal permission to use your name to promote a product Receive a royalty - % of profits Licensing of moderately priced items has enabled more customers to buy designer products