Sheila Spire Travelling Scholarship: Athens Trip 21/08/10
By Robert Harland
Using the funds provided by the Sheila Spire Travelling Scholarship I was able to visit the
ancient city of Athens, Greece, the cradle of European civilization. Studying Ancient History and
History at Leicester, Athens encompassed all of my historical interests in its vast culture and
architecture. I thought that Athens would be the perfect place to enrich my knowledge of the
ancient world, specifically in two of the modules I was undertaking in the second semester of my
second year. These were the Social History of the Hellenistic World and Theories and Methods for
Ancient History. For the latter I was involved in a project analysing the Parthenon Frieze for which I
had to write an essay and participate in a group presentation focusing on a certain area of this
Athenian monument. Our group visited the British Museum where there is around half of the Frieze
marbles from the Parthenon but I thought that observing the monument on the Acropolis in all its
glory would really allow me a deeper understanding of the Frieze. The recently built New Acropolis
Museum would incorporate all of the historical elements, along with the countless other ancient
sites and museums around the city. Unfortunately, my original flight was cancelled due to the
Icelandic Volcanic ash cloud that harrowed European skies for weeks in late April. This being in the
Easter break I had no other choice but to postpone until the summer. Of course it would have been
better to have gone before my essay and presentation to reap the full academic benefits but the trip
was educational and enjoyable nonetheless and definitely promoted my knowledge of the ancient
world for my degree and myself.
After arriving late on 21st August, I left the hostel
early on Thursday 22nd to take to the sites of the city. I
wandered to the Agora, the whole way being utterly amazed
by the colossal height and centrality of the Acropolis.
Impatient to get up to the dizzying heights I was told that late
afternoon is the time of day to visit due to the light and a less
bustling atmosphere. The Agora lies
to the northwest of the Acropolis
and holds many buildings of great importance to ancient Greek culture and
politics. It is a good place to aimlessly wander, viewing temples, stoas and
even excavations currently going on. The Temple of Hephaestus and the Stoa of Attalos were
definitely the main highlights. Inside the Stoa is the Agora museum, which I took some notes on the
history of the grounds. After lunch I headed up to the Acropolis, the High city that polarises the rest
of Athens in its orbit. Walking with the crowds through the Propylaea you are immediately stunned
by the power of this sacred ground. The main focus for me, as for most of the visitors was the
Parthenon. After studying the building and its history it
was marvellous to just stand there and appreciate its
amazing architecture. Just looking at it you can feel its
deep past through the ages and experience something
that you cannot get from any book. I took photographs
and took in the magnificent views from the East part of
the Acropolis. I stayed until closing time viewing the
magnetic Parthenon in all its ancient glory.
On Day 2 I went back through Hadrian’s library to the New Acropolis Museum which had
only been open a year since its completion. The lay out of the building was outstanding and really
complemented the ancient works, mixing in contemporary and neo-classical architecture all around
the interior. The view from the third floor of the Acropolis really made it for me as you could see
behind you what you where reading about which definitely sets it apart from many other museums.
I continued to take notes and pictures of the ancient relics and was able to learn a deeper history of
the Parthenon and especially the frieze. A significant point was their utilisation of the Acropolis in
modern Greek history, a potent political and social tool.
This was the topic for my essay so I was keen to examine
the success of my research. Also analysing the
differences between the New Acropolis museum and the
British Museum on the ownership of the Parthenon
marbles as this was a key argument for our group
presentation. This visit was definitely of academic
benefit as I learnt more about Athenian life through the history of the Acropolis. I also visited the
Temple of Olympian Zeus, the Panatheniac stadium, the Parliament building and enjoyed some live
Greek music in the evening.
On Day 3 I went on an excursion to Delphi with a friend I met at the Hostel. The 3 hour, 200
kilometre rickety bus ride was certainly worth it as the surroundings and views of this very sacred
town were spectacular. We visited the Museum and the archaeological site, seeing the famous
Temple of Apollo where the Oracle of Delphi used to reside. The mountainous views really reiterated
why the Greeks thought that this place was the exact centre of the earth and why it held so much
hallowed power. The Museum held interesting relics as the
Argos twins and the Naxos sphinx.
On Day 4 I visited the National Archaeological Museum,
a grandiose building filled with treasures from the earliest ages
from all over the Mediterranean. It is one of Europe’s best Archaeological museums and I learnt a
great deal in the many hours I spent observing the ancient relics and the history behind them.
Although I do not study Archaeology, the museum was beneficial for a general understanding which
is important in Ancient History as we frequently refer to physical evidence for historical sources and
in many cases it is the only verification that is obtained. I found the cultural relics particularly
interesting as it is a preference for me in my studies, explaining the significant parts of everyday life
in ancient world. This included household medicine, sexuality and music to name but a few. This
research complimented my Social History of the Hellenistic World module and furthered my
knowledge for later modules hopefully with a focus on ancient society and culture.
I would highly recommend for any historian to
see the physical artefacts and ancient sites of which
they are studying or have studied. It becomes
somewhat more realistic in a sense when you see the
places where it happened, to take in and appreciate
past cultures and the glories of their architectural
efforts. I think that this is a necessary part of studying
history, and as these sites are preserved they should be
venerated and allowed further research into the ancient world. However, experiencing the culture of
the modern state of Greece is also important whilst appreciating the ancients’ wonders. How the
locals feel about such adoration of their ancestors rather than themselves is what Byron argued
when he moved to Greece. This links with the ‘snapping tourist’ who just takes photographs. It is so
important, especially after studying it to take time to respect how and why these sites are here.
Furthermore, it was great to be knowledgeable of the sites and history before going, being able to
piece together a true understanding rather than random nuggets of information. Therefore the trip
benefitted not only myself as an ancient history student but also as a European and World citizen. I
Experienced and learnt more about our history from such an important civilization as the Greeks and
witnessed their wonders of architecture, art, scholarship and philosophy in the place where it all
happened. For these reasons I would like to thank the Shiela Spire Scheme, the Travelling
Scholarships committee and the University of Leicester for making this voyage possible and hope
that others are lucky enough to experience what I have.
£400 Expenditure;
Flights £220 (EasyJet)
Hostel for 5 Nights £70 (Hostel Zeus)
Delphi Excursion £30
Airport Transfers (Gatwick) £20
Food £60