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Gill Nets
Introduction
If you are like me you’ve seen boats using gill nets while traveling the
coastline and while perhaps on your summer vacations like the ones I spent
at my Uncle Frank’s and Aunt Ruby’s across the bay. While I was young I
remember Aunt Ruby sending me down to the gill net boat early in the
morning while they stopped at the creek to take a rest after a dawn fishing
trip. After a while my brother and I became friends with the gill netter’s
son. He took us to his home and I saw where his grandfather was knitting a
new net. He told us that before nylon they had to make a new cotton or
linen net every year just to keep up. Just so you’ll know, a hand made gill
net is knitted so that you are knitting the depth of the net. Each row
increases the length of the net, not it’s depth, the depth is set with the
knitting of the first row. To maybe make it clearer; let’s take a 35 mesh
deep net as an example. The first thing that will be done is to knit a row of
meshes 35 meshes deep, then the second row is knit on to the first, also 35
meshes deep. This is repeated until the desired length of the net is reached.
The depth was set at 35 meshes by the first row. Thankfully webbing is
usually cheaper per pound than twine now, so knitting nets by hand is an
obsolete skill.
Gill nets are known as static gear, as are traps and longlines, as
opposed to active gear. Static gear depends on the movement of the fish to
the gear. Although a gill net may be set around a school of fish, the net’s
success depends on the fish swimming into it; it is not moved into the fish as
are some nets. The net works because the fish panic and try to swim through
the netting. When the panicking fish hit the net, their head is ringed by a
mesh and if the mesh size matches their size it goes behind their head to
their gill area. Since fish swim forward much better than they can back up,
they are stuck until you the fisherman come to pick them out. Hence the
name ‘gill net’.
A gill net is made of a float line, (holds up the top of the net), a lead line
(pulls down the bottom of the net), both which are tied to the body of the net
which is made of webbing, which looks like chain-link fencing made of
monofilament or multifilament twine.
Unfortunately, gill nets are not cheap, but they are easy to make and you
can cut the cost of your first net about in half by “hanging it in” yourself.
And since you can reuse the lead line and float line, when you rehang a net
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after the webbing is worn out, all you have to furnish is new webbing and
twine to hang it in, it really saves if you can hang it in yourself.
This book will show you how to figure the length and depth, how much
webbing to order and how to hang in gill nets.
There are a vast number of gill nets in use in many different local
situations, all over the world. Gill nets are found in Japan, salmon fishing;
in Iceland, cod fishing; Australia, shark nets; spider crab nets in France; and
the list goes on and on. Some of the different types are trammel, armored,
flag, drift, runaround, and tie down.
Mesh and Twine Size
The two most important aspects of a net are the mesh size and the twine
size of the webbing. The mesh size will determine the size of fish you catch.
The twine size will determine how many fish will hit and gill in your net.
You must be careful in picking out these two. If your mesh size is too small
the fish can’t gill and if too large they will swim through the net. If the
twine is too light the fish can break it and if too heavy they won’t gill well.
It seems all states have restrictions on mesh size, the size of mesh twine,
material the webbing is made from, and the maximum length of the net.
Your local marine patrol should know.
To give you an example, mullet nets we used to use in Pensacola, went
from 2 ¾” stretch mesh (it was the smallest that was legal) in 69 (# 3) to 4 “
and larger roe mullet nets made of 139 (#6) webbing, in between we
usually used 104 (#4). The 2&3/4” caught yearling mullet and the 4” caught
mullet that were a couple of years older when they had a belly on them when
they were full of roe. A general rule of thumb is that the smaller the mesh
the lighter the twine. Light twine is deadly on a wider range of fish than
heavy. This is because webbing becomes invisible at depth, so lighter
twined nets become invisible at a shallower depth than the heavier twined
ones. Even if the fish are too large to gill, many times they will roll up in
the webbing or get the webbing behind the scales on their heads.
Monofilament nets are to be preferred to multifilament. The only advantage
multifilament is said to have over mono is, it is ‘stickier’ at night. When the
fish just nose the net they are more prone to get caught by their nose scales.
Of course, the lighter the twine the quicker your net will wear out, and
the easier the larger fish can break it. But always lean toward a net that will
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be a good catcher. Nothing is more disheartening than having your fish
jump the net, go through the net, or hit the net and not gill.
The foregoing was about mullet nets in Pensacola. For particulars in
your area ask a local net shop or perhaps phone a fish house, many times an
old fisherman there will be able to advise you.
Floats and Leads
If you fish open water you must decide where in the water you wish to
fish. Some nets sink to the bottom to catch demersal species, some float at
the surface to catch pelagic, others go from the seafloor to the surface, and
some float above the bottom but below the surface. If you fish shallow
water you probably will have your net deep enough to go from the seafloor
to the surface. This will let you encircle schools of fish. You must be sure
when making circle strikes that your net is weighted enough with the leads
on the lead line, to keep the current from bringing the net together, and
creating a great problem, with fish being tangled in both sides of the net.
You must be doubly sure the net does not come together if you have struck a
large number of fish.
Of course your floats dictate your net’s buoyancy. Figure them while
you decide on your leads. A surface net is floated heavily and leaded
lightly. A bottom net is just the opposite. A midwater net should be floated
enough to give the net a positive buoyancy, anchors are used to secure the
net to the seafloor.
If you can justify them, the solid hard foam polyethylene floats are
probably best. There are so many different floats available that you need to
see what other fishermen in your area use. If you have picked out your
floats, determine how many ties between floats. We tie floats on two foot
centers, tie three six inch ties, slide up a float, and tie behind it. But many
nets have the floats spaced much father apart, some have 60 – 70 inches
between floats. But if you are going to be catching large amounts at each
set, you will need enough floats so that the fish don’t weight the net down
and sink it. It depends on how many fish you think you’ll catch at a time.
After picking out your floats, think next about your leads. There are two
styles, external or insert. External go over the rope and are probably the
most popular. Insert go inside hollow braid rope and have two advantages
over external. One thing they are quieter, second they are less prone to
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tangle in the webbing, but, there is only one problem, my source on the high
quality braided rope they require has dried up, (Atlantic and Gulf Fishing
Supply). So you’ll probably be happier with external, because using low
quality rope for insert leads can be a nightmare. When figuring rope for
external leads the rope has to be smaller than the hole in the leads. Use a
drill bit to find the diameter of your leads hole if you have forgotten. An
alternative is to use ‘Lead Core’ line. It is available from Net and Twine
Supply Companies; it comes with the leads inside braided line. It is more
expensive than braided rope and external leads.
Usually a lead is placed every foot on the lead line, (one foot centers).
Therefore if you place your floats on two foot centers you’ll have two leads
for every float. A number 10 lead is the weight we used to use in the bay.
But, Pensacola’s tidal flow is much reduced compared to much of the
world’s tides, so ask around or talk to some fishermen in your area. If you
want to see if your net will float or sink, take two leads and tape them or put
them inside a float and put it in your sink.
When you are buying leads they are sold by numbers. The number
indicates how many leads to the pound; a #10 is 1.6 ounce, or 10 to the
pound, number 20 leads take twenty to make a pound. So 1 pound of #10
leads will do 10’ of leadline on 1’centers. And 1 lb of # 20 will do 20’ on 1’
centers.
Figuring Webbing
Gill nets are quite easy to figure once a few simple basics are mastered.
People often refer to the way their net is hung in fractions. You might hear
someone say "my net is hung on thirds or halves". These fractions (1/3: 1/2:
etc.) indicate the ratio of stretched webbing to hung webbing. The closer to 1
the fraction is the fuller or the more webbing the net has in it.
To find the hanging in fractions we will be working with increments of 1
foot of float or lead line. The mullet gill nets I’m familiar with are hung
with a hang ratio of 1/2 or larger. The following chart gives a few hang
ratios,
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Hang
Ratio
Stretched
webbing
hung per foot
Hang
Ratio
Compliment of
Hang Ratio
1/4
16”
16-12 = 4/16 or ¼
12
3/4
1/3
18”
18-12 = 6/18 or 1/3
18
2/3
1/2
24”
24-12 = 12/24 or ½
24
1/2
5/9
27”
27-12 = 15/27 or 5/9
27
4/9
3/5
30”
30-12 = 18/30 or 3/5
30
2/5
The fractional compliment of the hang ratio (fraction added to the
hang ratio’s common fraction to make one), gives a quick way to figure the
length of ties. Let's use a hang ratio of 1/4. That sets the compliment at 3/4.
Two things that the compliment tells us is, (its denominator) tells us the
number of meshes (4) hung on the stretched length of 3 (the numerator)
meshes. Using a stretched mesh of 2 3/4", you would hang 4 meshes on 8
1/4" of line. (3 x 2&3/4 = 8 1/4")
Since you have found the length of line and the number of meshes,
you can figure a more convenient tie length if 8& 1/4" doesn't suit you. Say
the four mesh tie length is too long. How long would a tie length for 3
meshes be? Using comparative fractions we can find out.
4 meshes = 3 meshes ; 4x=3 times (8 1/4) ; 4X=24&3/4 ; X=6 3/16
8&3/4
X
So three meshes hung on 6 3/16" of line is the same hang ratio as 4
meshes on 8 1/4". It uses the same ratio of meshes to rope as does the longer
tie length.
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To find your nets hanging fraction do the following
First: determine your stretch meshes per foot. Example: 6 meshes of
4" stretch mesh = 24" of stretch mesh per foot.
Second: find the amount of stretched webbing over 1 foot. Example:
24"-12"=12"
Third: place the amount of stretched webbing over one foot over the
stretched hung per foot. Example: 12/24 reduced = 1/2 hang ratio.
What if your tie length or stretched mesh per foot is an odd number. If
that is the case, you can divide the odd tie length by the length of the
stretched meshes per tie. This gives the compliment of the hang ratio in
decimal form. I.E. 5 meshes of 2 3/4" stretch webbing hung on 5 1/4" of
rope.
5&1/4” rope (tie length)
equals
5 meshes (2&3/4” stretch mesh)
5.25" = 5.25 = .381818 comp hang ratio
5(2.75) 13.75
To find the feet hung per pound using the decimal compliment
of the hang ratio, MULTIPLY it times the stretched feet per pound given in
the net books. Divide the length of the desired net by the hung feet per
pound to give the pounds of webbing needed.
Net makers also use a term that sounds much like the hang ratio. It's
common to speak of the number of meshes hung on a certain length of lead
or float line. Therefore you might hear someone say 5 on 6 or 5 on 5 1/2.
By this they are saying 5 meshes on 6 inches or 5 meshes on 5 1/2 inches
of lead or float line. If you also know the mesh size you can figure the hang
ratio. Once you have the hang ratio you are ready to figure the amount of
webbing needed to hang your net. First find the compliment (fraction
needed to make 1) of the hang ratio. Let's work with a hang ratio of 5/9
Find compliment 1 - 5/9 = 9/9 -5/9 = 4/9
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Next look in your net catalog or ask your dealer for the webbings
stretched feet per pound, if in yards convert to feet. Let's use 176 feet per
pound.
Now multiply the stretched feet per pound by compliment (4/9) to
find hung feet per pound.
4/9 X 176 = 4X176 = 704
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9
=
78.22 hung feet per pound
Last you need to divide the length of your net by the hung feet per
pound to see how many pounds of webbing you will need to buy.
850’ length of net = 10.866785 lb. needed for net
78.22' hung feet per lb
Length of net divided by (compliment multiplied by stretched feet per
pound) equals pounds of webbing needed. For you algebra fans,
X
(C) (S)
=
P
X = length of desired net; C = decimal compliment of hang ratio;
S = stretched feet per lb given in net books. If in yards convert to feet. p =
pounds of webbing needed
There is also another way to figure webbing.
FIRST: Multiply stretched feet per pound by 12 to convert to
stretched inches per pound. 12” times 54 feet per lb. equals 648 stretch
inches per lb.
SECOND: Find the stretched webbing per foot that you are going to
hang I.E. 8 meshes of 4” stretch =32 inches.
THIRD: Divide stretched inches per pound by stretched webbing
per foot
I.E. 12" X 54 feet per lb. = 20.25' per pound hung in webbing
32”
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Now find the pounds of webbing needed by dividing the length of net by
the feet hung per pound
I.E.1200' = 59.25 pounds of webbing needed.
20.25
Your supplier may give his webbing as so many pounds per 100 stretch
yards. If so divide the pounds given into the 100 yards to give the stretch
yards per pound, then start from there.
Don't think that your webbing will hang exactly as figured. It should
be close. Usually I have some webbing left over. Save the extra for
patching.
FIGURING FISHING HEIGHTS OF GILL NETS
To figure the height of a finished gill net requires some knowledge of
the Pythagorean Theorem. This theorem states that the square of the
hypotenuse (longest side) is equal to the sum of the squares of the other
two sides.
An Example (5) (5) = (4) (4)+(3) (3)
25 = 16 +9 25 = 25
Using this law and the compliment of the hang ratio we can find the
fishing height.
First, we know the hypotenuse. It is the length of the bar (one side of
the mesh, the bar length is one half of the length of the stretched mesh)
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Second, we can use the compliment of the hang ratio times the bar
length to find leg 1 (figure 1). This only leaves one side to find. This we
can do by using the law of the right triangle.
Third, subtract the square of leg 1 from the square of the bar. Next
find the square root of the remainder just found and that is the length of leg
2.
Example using 8” stretch webbing and a hang ratio of 1/2
Side A-C is equal to the bar length, 4". Side A-B is equal to the
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compliment of the hang ratio multiplied by bar length (not the stretched
measurement) . I.E. .5X4"=2" ; AB=2"
This only leaves side B-C to find. Using the law of the right triangle
we can find it.
(AC) (AC) = (AB) (AB) + (BC) (BC)
(4) (4) = ( 2) (2) + ( BC) (BC)
16 = 4 + (BC) (BC)
12 = (BC) (BC)
Square root of 12= BC
3.464" = BC
This indicates that the third side is equal to 3.464. Therefore each
mesh will stand twice that. So double B-C (not square) and multiply it times
the number of meshes the webbing is deep to find the fishing depth of the
net. Therefore for a 45 mesh deep net
(3.464 + 3.464) (45) = 311.764"
311.764 = 25.98' deep.
12”
If you would rather work with percentages, take the height of the third
side B-C and divide it by the bar to give the percentage of height that the net
will stand. Then multiply the percentage of height by the maximum depth of
the net. (The maximum depth of the net is the number of meshes times the
stretch of mesh).
I.E. 3.464” = 86.6%
4”
(45 mesh deep) X 8" stretch mesh = 360" maximum stretch depth
360(.866) = 311.76 hung in depth in inches
311.76 = 25.98 feet deep
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The line formed by A-B runs parallel to the length of the run, and can be
used to figure the compliment of the hang ratio. The length of the run
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divided by the total length of the stretched mesh will give the compliment of
the hang ratio in decimal.
Hung in length divided by total length of stretched webbing for entire
net
600’ of hung in net divided by 1200’ of stretched webbing, equals a
hang ratio of 1/2.
DIFFERENT TYPES OF NETS
Before you begin to hang your net you need to decide on what type you
will need. Here are a few.
Trammel: It's a three layered net. The center webbing (bunt) is a
small mesh and in a 10 foot deep trammel net it should have about 5 feet of
extra webbing in the vertical direction. (I personally don’t like trammel
nets.) The outer layers (trammels) are large mesh. It works this way. The
fish go through the first outer layer, hits the small mesh inner layer, pushes
the bunt or inner layer through the 2nd outer large mesh webbing and a
pocket is formed with the small center mesh. As you can probably guess,
extracting the fish takes a little practice and can be time consuming. Be sure
this is what you want before hanging. It catches a wide variety of fish of
many sizes. The mesh size of the walling (trammels) will determine the tie
length. Some people make the tie length equal to the bar length of the
walling. This is hanging on halves. Some increase the tie length to .707 x 2
of the bar length. This hangs the walling very close to square.
Trammel nets in the 4’ to 10’ deep range should have from 4’ to 5’
extra webbing in the bunt, in the vertical direction. Remember, the walling
will determine the depth of the net.
A trammel net is hung is this manner. Pick up the desired number of
bunt meshes with the needle, then the needle picks up the trammels and a
half hitch knot is made on the line and the process repeated. Or if you find
the tie lengths too far apart you can tie down the bunt every six inches or so
(to your liking) and just pick up the trammels as you come to them. This
will not only make your net hang better but it will tie down your floats and
leads in a better fashion. Of course if you wish you can tie down the floats
and leads with short ties (i.e. 6”) and continue on with the wide ties for the
rest of the hanging. But this gets a little confusing if you aren’t good at
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varying your counting of meshes, because you have to subtract the number
you tied on using the float from the normal number you tie on to get the
number you tie down the trammels with.
Armored: A trammel net with bunt and only one trammel. When the
net is struck the trammel webbing must be on the outside of the bunt.
Flag: A gill net with no lead line, just a float line. Used in ponds and
lakes with no current or tide.
Drift: A gill net that is weighted light enough to float, the floats
should not be far apart, (2’ centers for floats). Used on pelagic species like
mackerel. It is usually set in a straight line, up current of the fish, and drifts
into the fish. Generally used in deep waters.
Window Net: Is used on mackerel, It is 3 depths of webbing. The top
and bottom panels are made from multifilament. The middle is made from
monofilament. This net has two centerlines and a float line and lead line.
Runaround: A standard gill net. Used to catch species that school up,
like mullet. Weighted enough so that a current will not bring the net
together. Usually set in a circle with a spiral wind down section inside the
circle of the net. This is my and everyone that I knew, favorite net. It is the
work horse and most popular style for coastal fishing.
Tie down: A standard gill net with twine connecting the lead and float
lines at intervals. The twine is short enough to let the webbing hang loose.
Usually a shallow water net. One way to hang-in a tie down net is to make
the tie down a multiple of your tie length, that way you can use the
previously tied section of net as your standard as you take twine off your
needle. It goes like this, decide on the tie down length to be used, let's say 8
feet on a net 12 feet in normal depth. You will be using the ties on your
float and lead lines as your measurement standard. So if 8 feet is what you
need and you are tying your floats on 2 foot centers, tie on 4 floats. Then tie
on your tie down needle (use half hitches on your float or lead line) which I
recommend you use as large needle as possible and unwind your tie down
twine from the big tie down needle, using the length the 4 floats on your
float line as your ruler or standard. Then tie onto the opposite line (half
hitches) and cut the tie down needle free. Keep hanging the webbing with
your regular needles and tying down the lead line and float lines at regular
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intervals, using a large needle dedicated for the tie down.
Seine: A net usually set from a beach and circled around a school of
fish. It is then "seined" to shore. Sometimes a double lead line is used to
help keep the webbing from rolling up on the lead line as the net is dragged
to shore.
HANGING IN GILL NETS
Before you begin hanging your gill net you need to put your floats and
leads on or in the ropes. Try to space them so they will be where needed. To
hang in the net you will need an open place with no hangs on the ground that
the net’s webbing can get hung on. Rake up any twigs. Try for as much
shade as possible. I use four 8’ landscape timbers (they are treated and
cheap) and one 2”x4”x 8’ which I cut in two so I have two 2”x4”x4’ and
four (six if you centerline) nylon boat cleats (4” to 6” cleats work for me).
Instead of boat cleats the net shops just use 4 ‘J’ hooks and tie the ropes to
them using clove hitches. I like a fifty to one hundred foot distance between
the two sets of landscape timbers that anchor the run. The main thing is to
be able to lash two ropes to whatever you decide to use. I put about 20" of
the four 8’ landscape timbers in the ground with one of the halves of the two
by four bolted to each set. You will want your ropes at least waist high, the
lead line will droop. You might run a line about head high over the float and
lead line. From this you can suspend pick up hooks, use J hooks or hooks
made from old wire coat hangers, if the line droops too much.
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I've also seen a 1” by 4” by 3 ½’ with headless finishing nails in the top end
edge used to prop up the lines. It is better to be high than low, bending over
gets old fast. To hang in the net you will need a netting needle. If you are
tying on 3" to 4" stretch mesh you will probably want a Loomis ‘H’ style
#347 needle it is more expensive than the traditional flat needle but it lasts
longer and is easier to use. If you like the flat style I suggest a 6 1/4" X 1/2"
up to about 8" X l". Get at least four. If you have doubts order several sizes.
They are not expensive. Duro nylon makes a better flat needle than does
plastic. You will want a smaller needle for patching. The twine most net
makers use to tie #69 - #139 webbing to the lines is #9 nylon seine twine
made from 3 ply multifilament nylon. It is twisted, not braided, white.
There are two types of twine I can recommend. The most common is the
standard white, twisted twine. The second is also standard white twisted
twine, but it's a little fuzzy. Some people think it holds the knots better, it is
a little easier on your hands. If your fingers are cracking where the twine is
pulled across them, wrap the fingers that are injured with some 1/2” wide
Medical Adhesive Tape, it will do the trick and only takes about 3” of tape
per finger. The first thing that goes out to the tying posts is the rope. Lay
them out so that there are no knots formed by the ropes. Coil in a bucket or
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tub when you are through putting the leads and floats in place. Take them to
the far end away from the end you are going to start tying at. Pull the
starting ends of each rope to the starting point. To hang your ropes take four
pieces of small braided nylon rope (has less memory) about 18” to 24” long
and using a sheet bend tie them to the lead and float lines, use a double sheet
bend if you have slippage problems. Use the short pieces of rope to lash to
your cleats. If you are using ‘J’ hooks, just clove hitch the lead line and
float lines directly to the ‘J’ hooks. Count your floats and leads (external)
[your insert must already be in the rope] so you will have approximately
enough. Now take the webbing and place it at the far end where the ropes
are. Untie the bundle, lay it out and take the end of it to the starting point
leaving the majority at the far end. If you want to be exact in your ties mark
a piece of twine with the spacing you've decided upon. A cheap and quick
way to mark the twine that you want as your standard is to cut a piece of
cardboard the length you wish to have your ties apart. If you wish ties
separated by 6” you have a choice. Cut a piece of cardboard either 6” or 3”.
If 3”, wrap the cardboard with twine and only mark the twine on one edge.
If 6”, mark the twine wrapped standard on it’s top and bottom edges. If you
use different colored markers you can use the twine for double duty, 6” and
12”, if the cardboard is 6” wide. Hang it between the lead and float line.
When you are using a piece of marked twine make your ties on the leading
rope to the twine first, next make your ties on the opposite rope line up with
the leading rope. If you are tying just estimating the spacing be positive that
the ties line-up with one another. I can't over emphasize that. Make sure
your ties, one on the lead, one on the float line, line up opposite each other.
If you space your half hitches 5" on the float line then the half hitches on the
lead line must also be spaced at 5", and line up with the ties on the float line.
If they don't, you'll have to rehang the net, because unwanted tensions will
be imparted to the webbing. You might mark a net needle with fingernail
polish at the proper spacing so you can check tie-spacing once in a while. It
is not necessary to be exact. The knot used by net makers to tie the webbing
to the line is a half hitch.
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A half hitch of three turns is tied next to each other make the knot. Start the
net about 3 feet from the end of both the lead and float lines, the first mesh is
tied down by itself. Hang a float and lead next, and start picking up the
webbing. This will stretch out your net completely. If you're right handed
you'll be walking backward as you tie the left side of the net, and walking
forward as you tie the right side. Always be faithful to your mesh count and
tie on the same number of meshes every time. If you miss a mesh go back
and find the error, cut out back to the error and begin again. When you tie all
you can on a run, mark the last two half hitches that form a set (opposite
each other) if one line has more ties than the other. You will need to mark
them with a felt tip marker, so you can start your next run at exactly the right
place. Take the two marked ties down to the starting point and with the
marked ties opposite each other, line the net up exactly as you hang the
ropes up again. When you run out of twine on your needles don't tie the new
twine to the tag end of the twine left on the rope. Rather tie three or more
half hitches with the new needle next to the last half hitch tied on the rope.
Some people cut the needles free when a run is completed and tie the
needles back on when starting the next run. It's good to put the loose ends of
the twine under the last half hitches of the beginning half hitch knot that ties
on the new needle. If webbing is not available that is deep enough for your
waters, there is another option. Centerline. Pick out webbing that is half of
the depth you need.
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Then you proceed as follows. Order twice as much webbing as you would
need for a single run length. You will also need a centerline to tie to, 3/16”
to ¼” rope usually does fine. Now picture in your mind two bed sheets, you
want a double bed sheet, so you sew the two together, making a seam down
the center. That's what a centerline does. You need to find both ends of
your webbing, treat them as one, when you tie to your centerline your needle
will go in the first meshes at the same time. Hang your center line first,
either one run or entirely. Then hang the float line and lead line on either
side and make your ties line up with the ties on the centerline. Mark (with a
felt tip marker) the last set of ties that make a set, so you can line your net's
knots up exactly when you start another run.
When you get through your net will look like this. Float line tied to one
depth of webbing tied to the centerline that is tied to another depth of
webbing that is tied to the lead line. When you are picking up a center lined
net let the man with the floats pull first, the centerline will then come to him
and he can stack it with the float line, he should pull ahead of the lead line
man. When the float line man is far enough ahead the centerline will come
right to him. Some people stack the center line with the lead line but I can’t
recommend it, because you run the risk of the lead line getting over the
centerline and sinking it.
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GILL NET BOATS
There are five types of gill net boats that I know of. Some have
definite advantages over others. But no matter what type you buy
ALWAYS ride in it BEFORE you buy.
Well Boat: My favorite. It is an outboard powered boat, with the
motor mounted in a "well" close to the bow. Also known as a bow rigger.
This frees up the work space in the rear and puts the motor out of harm's
way. A well boat lets you set the net in either direction if the net is deep
enough and you are going slow enough. A disadvantage is it usually does
not turn well with the net off. Try turning at slow speeds, avoid it if it does
not respond until on plane. Try with net on and off.
Chute Boat: A very popular style. Easily made from an old runabout.
Therefore it makes a good first boat. Called a chute rig because the net is
directed out of the boat by a chute. Not as handy as a well boat because the
motor is more easily entangled in the net. It can get aggravating. A boat
with a V bottom extending to the stern does not make a workable chute rig.
The boat needs a flat bottom at the stern. Else the boat will only turn toward
the side the motor is on. Always ride in a net boat with the net on and off.
Try turning left and right.
Inboard Boat: Major disadvantages. If the net is set in a circle with a
spiral wind down, the boat is captive. You must avoid shallow water and
getting the net in the propeller. But some inboard boats have a guard over
the prop shaft, rudder and propeller and are excellent. They can motor over
the float line without danger. Good for drift fishing in open water.
One Lung Inboard Engine and Row Boat: Good for close in fishing.
The energy crunch won't affect these guys very much. With this boat you
motor down the beach until the desired school of fish is spotted, then you
turn the engine off and row to set the net around the school. Hopefully the
fish haven’t noticed that they are captured inside the net, next with all the net
out, the oars are knocked against the boat. The fish panic and gill
themselves.
Platform Boat: Lafitte Skiff has the motor mounted in the middle stern
with a platform built behind it. Usually handles well, but it's hard to get the
net out of the prop.
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Of course you don't need a special boat to put out a gill net. You can
use a boat with a large enough bow to accommodate the net with enough
space left to stand. I have used a 13’ Boston Whaler with the net on a piece
of plywood on the bow. You back the boat around to put the net out. I have
also used a 17’ Whaler with a chute rig on the bow. I made it of 1 1/4” sch
40 pvc pipe and some heavy reinforced plastic canvas like material. You
can also make the shute rig on the bow out of plywood. Just wear goggles or
glasses because you will be getting sand, seaweed, and scales flying in your
face as you set the net.
You don't have to invest in a motor boat. Most net shops in my area
offer a small fiberglass net tub. Usually about 3 by 5 feet. You put your net
in it and walk it around. It holds about 500 feet of 8 foot deep net.
FISHING NOTES
A circle set is usually made with the leads on the inside. That is if the leads
are on the left (port) side of the boat, the setting turn will be made to port.
Always try to set a net from any boat you are going to buy. I've seen some
boats that would trip the lead line over the float line repeatedly. Don't buy
that boat. If your boat does trip the lead line over the float line you can
make a low triangular ramp and make the lead line go over the port side,
floats toward the starboard side if the ramp is on the port side of the boat.
You may alternate the side of the boat you put the leads and floats on, while
you are bringing the net in, in any of the above boats except the chute rig
and boats with the low triangular ramp. This is done by passing the lead line
under the float line as you swap sides.
If you would like a cheap fish pick, heat the tip of an ice pick up and
bend the point to make a hook about ½” long. It’s handy and cheap and
saves on finger nails.
Crabs stop eating holes in nets when they are removed from the water.
If your net is being shredded, boat the net, hanging the crabs over both the
port and starboard sides, depending on which side the crab is closest to.
Then pick the crabs out at the shore. If you don’t want the crabs, crushing
them makes them easier to remove. Stomp (shoes on of course) or beat with
a ball bat or whatever is handy.
A feature I like on any boat is self bailing decks. Don't have to worry
about rain or a little spray. If you are going to be looking for schools of fish
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you will want to think about bow steering. Bow steering lets you get a good
close look at how close you are to the net when making a strike and if you
have a platform on the bow (with railing) you can increase the distance you
can see, always an advantage.
If you load up on catfish, several hundred pounds, you have two
options. Rip out the net, BINGO no net. Or pick them out. I advise you to
try picking them out. It’ll be unpleasant but quicker and cheaper than rehanging the net. Boat the net, catfish and all. Go to a calm place, you can
go to the boat ramp, but don’t dump the catfish there. Take the picked fish
out to open water and dump there. If you dump at the boat ramp you run the
risk of flat tires and people stepping on the spines. Not to mention the
enemies you will make. Using regular slip joint pliers, break off all the
spines on all the catfish you can get to. The catfish will roll up in the
webbing, but even so, never break off just one or two spines. Break off all
three. Be careful how you dispose of the spines. Never leave them in the
net, they will tangle in the meshes and you might step on them. Start pulling
the net out, removing catfish as you go. Break off more spines (always
every spine on every catfish you can get to), pull out more net, remove more
catfish, Ad Nauseam.
If you opt to rip out your net here's how it's done. Do not boat the net.
Take one end of the lead line and cut the webbing above the double selvage
for several feet parallel to the lead line, start at about 25 feet. Tie the end of
the lead line to the boat and take off, full throttle, back down the net that's in
the water, directly opposite to the way it was put out. If it doesn't start
ripping, cut out a little more, remember above the double selvage. You cut
above the double selvage on the lead line because the double selvage was
put on the net to keep it from ripping. When you are able to get it to rip, rip
it all the way off. Do the same to the float line. Cut the webbing on float
line below the double selvage in the single strand webbing.
Rip out as a last resort, all else has failed, and you want to salvage
your lead and float lines. If you have just a few catfish but the water is too
rough to pick them, hang them over the sides, port and starboard (still in the
webbing) and work the rest of the net. This will keep them from tangling
the rest of the webbing in their spines, until you can get to a place where you
can pick them. A note on sting rays. The best first aid for a sting ray barbing
is hot, hot water. The hotter the better, after you feel how the heat takes
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away the pain you'll want to build a fire under the pot. I've been told the
heat breaks down the toxins. Always seek medical attention.
ALWAYS ANNOUNCE WHEN A DANGEROUS FISH IS COMING
ABOARD
When you are picking the net up, stack the float line like a haystack,
spiraling up as the stack gets higher. For the lead line, go back and forth,
parallel to the port (or starboard) side. The lead line will start at the stern go
about 3’ toward the bow in a straight line, then double back toward the stern
in a straight line, on top or next to the originally laid lead line. Keep going
back and forth with the lead line, laying it down in straight lines until you
reach the end of the net.
The best way to insure that your fish will spoil is not to take ice with you.
Don't think that an ice chest is cold normally. If you put your fish in an
empty ice chest you might as well stay home and save your gas money. Take
enough ice. Usually a fish house will be your cheapest source of ice.
Sometimes public ice houses give commercial fishermen a break on the
price. Our local ice house had a machine that would chip the block ice up
and blow it into our ice chest. It made icing down much easier, the fish’s
shelf life increased and the flesh quality improved. Commercial fishermen
in Florida must have their ice finely divided.
SIGNS OF FISH
This is a very important topic. Catching desirable fish while avoiding
others takes skill. I will share my little knowledge with you.
Mullet: Usually show themselves by jumping. Mullet jumping long
and high don't indicate a tight school. But many jumping in a small area
indicate a goodly number and should be struck. A tight school usually looks
like this, you will see a shake on the water (like a light breeze) and mullet
will be jumping low and twisting in it, they jump higher on the edges. But
don't strike too soon. Mullet schools can be confused with other fish
schools. If you strike a school and the shake doesn't disappear jerk that net
up. Mullet can also be detected by muddy water. If the other water you've
been running in is clear it indicates feeding mullet. Swirls also indicate fish.
If you're fishing shallow water look for them running off on the bottom
through polarized sunglasses. At night mullet can be found by working a
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high intensity spotlight (200/300,000 candlepower or better) over the boat's
wake. If a few jump, usually a strike is make. If one jumps in summer, run
around in that area before going on. If you spotlight doesn't get them up,
stop and listen for their jumping. Night fishing is common during winter. If
one jumps in the cold water of winter, strike. They also jump in the wake
during the daytime, let your deckhand look back. After sitting on them 5
minutes usually all that will, have gilled. Mullet calm down after a few
minutes in a net, and in fisherman's lingo become "tame".
Menhaden: Pogey's, LY's, etc. A widely harvested fish. But trash in a
gill net. Make a shake like mullet. Avoid. If you do net a lot of menhaden,
try shaking the net as you pull it to you, you probably can shake out a lot.
There are two things you can use LY's for. Fertilizer and bait. Ice them
down and give them to a pole fisherman or use for blue crab bait. If you
load up on menhaden one trick that some fishermen use is to boat the net.
Then at full throttle, going in a straight line, restrike the net. Many
menhaden will fly out of the net, looks something like popcorn popping. It’s
hard on the net, but you won’t have to pick as many out. Menhaden have
razor belly’s, their belly’s can cut you. I often crushed the fish while
wearing knitted white nylon gloves to protect my hands. Crushing makes
them easier to remove from the net.
Catfish: Hardhead males school up in large schools toward middle
and late summer. They also form shakes.
Speckled Trout: Look like logs in the water. Set around the perimeter
of the grass beds, then go around inside the net stomping on the deck. That
usually spooks them into the net. They also give their position away by
smell, (like watermelon), and by sight, an oil slick on the water when they
regurgitate, they eat all they can hold, vomit and eat some more. Many will
break light twine with their mouth and jaws and swim thru the net free.
Pompano: Some people think Pompano are the best fish in Gulf
waters. You can net Pompano. They show themselves at night if hit with a
spotlight. They will come to the surface and skip on their sides. You'll also
see the Pompano flash during the daylight. For chicken Pompano 4 ½” to 5"
stretch mesh, 104 webbing is good.
Sheephead: set around depressions during the spring spawning season
with a net that sinks to the seafloor it does not have to extend to the surface.
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The excited sheephead will hug the bottom and not swim over the net even if
it does not come to the surface.
Keep your net covered and out of the sunlight when not in use. An
old carpet does well as a sun shield. A cool place is good too, as heat is not
good for them. Watch out for rats, if caught in a net a rat will gnaw his way
through it. To start your net out of the boat use an old bleach jug half full of
water and about 8' of rope. It will be easy to see as you're coming around.
Tie both lead and float lines to the rope and jug, else you will slowly rip
your net apart. If you are seining a net to shore work one end and leave the
other end alone. The fish will not spook and jump the net as much. They
tend to congregate at the still end. Then, when you get the net close in pull it
in as fast as possible, run with it. You'll catch more fish.
For one reason or another you might need to count meshes vertically.
To count meshes vertically or down the length always go to the next mesh
across a knot. The chart shows the right way. All mono filament webbing
seems to come from the Far East. All that I have ever heard about comes
from the Philippines, Taiwan, Korea, and Japan. This includes the webbing
sold by the big net houses. So you would like to buy your webbing direct,
so would I. The only hang up is that they want you to buy a metric ton. If
you can get less, let me in on it. No matter where you get your webbing
from, test it before you start hanging, to be sure it's not weak or rotten, and
the knots are tied tight.
If you make circle strikes, you'll want to tie the net together, to close
off the circle so the fish will be captured. You can use snaps and things like
that, but there's an easier way. Here's how it's done. Take a float on the net
coming out of the boat. Run it between the tying twine and the rope on the
part of float line first off the boat that is in the water. Bring the float through
and then loop it a couple of times between the twine and rope on the portion
of the net it's on. (that is the net coming out of the boat) It won't jam tight
and you'll be able to untie it. If not it will jam.
For situations in shallow water where you need to move the boat but
you don’t want to crank the engine, you can make a push pole that I never
have been able to break. Call your local lumber yards, you are seeking a fir
dowel rod. The one I used was 1&1/4” by 10’ fir. You will also use a
1&1/4” by 10’ sch 40 pvc pipe). Place the fir dowel inside the pvc pipe.
It’ll be a tight fit but that is what you want. Glue a pipe cap on each end.
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The caps will bust but that’s not important, they will keep the dowel from
coming out anyway.
Sometimes your boat will be blown over the net and the net will get a twist
in it. If that happens, you can use the above push pole or let enough net out
of the boat to allow the boat to be driven over the section that the lead line is
over and has sunk. Be ready to turn the motor off and pull it up. Inboards
can do this if the net is sunk deep enough. Be careful and get up some speed
so you can turn off the motor and your momentum will take you over the
net. That way if the net does touch the wheel, the net won't get wrapped
around it and you can pull it off without going overboard. Net boats should
be overpowered, so that 1 or 2 thousand pounds of fish won't keep them
from getting up on plane.
MORE ABOUT MULLET
Mullet roe in the cool part of the year, October to November in some
places, November to December others, and the cycle continues until March
in some parts of the world, (northern hemisphere). Roe season is when you
can make your money. This is because Asians drive up the price so they can
get the highly prized roe of the female. This means that you can make a
little too. The prices paid vary but they all work like this. The larger
(heavier) the fish roe, the more paid per pound. Since the larger fish have
heavier roe they bring larger prices, so what do you do? That's right, hang
larger webbing. You put your spring and summer nets away and bring out
your big roe mullet net. How much roe do the fish yield? Well the roe
houses want a minimum of 12 lb. of roe per 100 lb. of female fish. No blood
or veins in the roe is preferred. I say female fish because they want the fish
separated. White roe fish (male) only bring a fraction of the price the female
demands. How do you tell one from another? You squeeze the belly by the
genital pore just in front of the anal fin and make a little of the roe come out.
Some people say that a red pouching genital pore is female and some say a
female is larger with a curved back. I say squeeze. How many eggs does a
female lay? A 3 pound fish lays from 1 to 1.5 million eggs. Mullet that
have roe'd out and returned to the bays are called "back runners".
If you like roe you might like to make a roe knife. It's a knife that has
a ‘special’ tip on it, used when harvesting the roe. Here's how to make one
in about 5 minutes. Take a small knife (a paring knife works well) and put a
Marti Gras necklace bead about 3/8” diameter on the knife’s tip. I have an
electric stove and I turn on a burner on high. Let the burner get red hot.
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Then place about 3/8” of the tip of the knife on it. When the tip is turning
color press the tip down into one of the holes in the bead about 3/8” deep
and let them cool naturally. Then once cool separate and place glue on the
tip of the blade and reassemble and let the glue set. You have a roe knife.
How long can you keep a mullet fresh? If kept on ice, four days at
least. Layer of ice, layer of fish. Don't drain off the ice water if they are
kept in an ice chest. Their eyes will turn milky (usually a sigh of an old
fish), but they will keep better. Don't keep scaled or cleaned fish in water.
Keep them dry in the refrigerator or in a plastic bag in the ice chest. If you
freeze them, they will keep several months. If you do freeze them, put a
container in the freezer with water and ice cubes in it. Let the water get ice
cold while you clean the fish. Then put the mullet in the ice cold water,
leaving some space at the top. After they freeze up hard add a little water to
cover any exposed flesh. If you have a pressure cooker you might like to can
some. They can well and are good if made into patties (one egg, cracker
crumbs and onion) or used in chowders or gumbos. Don't use the oil, give
it to your cat. Outside. (diarrhea) The time for canning is 110 minutes at 10
pounds of pressure: or 15 pounds pressure for 90 minutes. Always use pint
jars, NEVER quarts. Times and pressures have not been worked out for
quarts. Some people put salsa, fresh peppers (previously canned peppers
give a musty taste) or onions in the jars with the fish. I sometimes use
jalapeno peppers but without much results, I tried fresh habanera but it was
too hot for me. You’ll want to salt them, a 1/4 teaspoon is enough. What do
they taste like? Something like tuna. You can make a tuna-fish-like salad
out of them for sandwiches. Don't think that canning will improve or mask
old mullet. If you want to can, can right away with fresh, iced down fish. I
like to skin and debone the filet completely. How fast does a mullet grow?
I've seen pictures of yearling pond grown mullet that were artificially
propagated in Taiwan. They were 35 cm long. I'm guessing that they grew
faster than an open water mullet. Still, I'm surprised they grow so fast.
SPOTLIGHTS
If you night fish you will need a spotlight. I like the neoprene rubber
molded type. (the new rechargeable lights are cheap and popular too.) I
used to get mine from the national boating supply chains. The good thing
about these rubber lights over hard plastic is that they protect the bulb from
the saltwater better. You can change out the switch, power cord, and bulb.
The 300,000 candlepower bulb I like is a Westinghouse #4049 (North
American Phillips has bought out the W. lamp division). It draws 12.5
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amps, is 150 watt, works on 11 to 13 volts, and is 5& 3/4" in diameter. I like
its beam also, it’s broader and not so pinpoint as some others. G.E. makes a
290,000 candlepower bulb, but it is more expensive and draws more current
(250 watts) (G.E. #4522, aircraft landing light). There are several switches
that will work in the light, take the rubber housing to an electrical supply
house. They will be able to match a switch up with the hole in the housing,
be sure and tell them how much amperage your lamp draws. I use lamp cord
for replacement power cord. Go to a hardware store and get the largest you
can get through the housing hole, force it. After a while around saltwater the
cord will get a pinhole in it and the copper will corrode in two, the positive
lead goes first. The clear plastic insulated cord seems to hold up better in
the saltwater environment than the rubber insulated.
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ITEMIZED FORMULA FOR FIGURING GILL NETS: TO START
LABEL 13 LINES USING LETTERS A THROUGH M
(A) Note the length of the net to be hung in feet
(B) Note the length of the stretched mesh in inches
(C) Put down the stretched yards (or feet) per pound for the webbing.
(C1) (If pounds per 100 stretch yards, divide the 100 yards by the
pounds per 100 yards to give stretched yards per pound)
(D) Multiply Item (C) by 36 if in yards; 12 if in feet
(E) Note the tie length in inches; one knot and the distance to the next
knot on the lead line or float line rope
(F) Divide 12 by Item (E)
(G) Put down the number of webbing meshes hung per tie
(H) Multiply Item (G) by Item (B); gives stretched webbing hung per tie
(I) Multiply Item (H) by Item (F); gives stretched webbing hung per foot
(J) Multiply Item (I) by Item (A); gives total of stretched webbing hung
for entire length of net
(K) Divide Item (J) by Item (D); gives pounds of webbing needed
(L) Divide Item (A) by Item (K); gives hung feet per pound
(M) Multiply Item (L) by closest pound of webbing [Item (K) rounded off]
desired ordered, usually 5 lb increments; gives length of net at chosen
poundage of webbing
TO FIGURE THE MAXIMUM HEIGHT OF A GILL NET LABEL 10
LINES (N) THRU (W)
(N)
Divide Item (E) by Item (H); compliment of hang ratio in decimal
form
(O) Note the length of the bar; 1/2 of Item (B), use decimals
(P) Multiply Item (O) by Item (N); length half a mesh is stretched to
(Q) Square item (P)
(R) Square Item (O); bar length
(S) Subtract Item (Q) from Item (R)
(T) Take the Square Root of Item (S); height half a mesh will stand
(U) Multiply Item (T) by 2; height one mesh will stand
(V) Multiply Item (U) by depth of webbing in meshes; gives height of net
in inches
(W) Divide Item (V) by 12; gives height of net in feet