A Cosmetic Chemists
Guide to Natural
Formulating Standards
Perry Romanowski
Element 44 Inc
Natural Formulating
Involved in Natural Formulating
Natural Formulating
Course
Blogging Audience
Demand
Lots of interest in
Natural Formulating
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Learn how to create effective natural formula
Online course
Define Natural
Explore functional natural ingredients
Specific natural skin & hair formulations
How to market natural products
• http://chemistscorner.com/natural-cosmetics
Scope
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Natural Cosmetic Market
Natural Standards Groups
Standards
Should you get certified?
Natural Cosmetic Market
$30 billion globally 2013
Small Natural Brands
Bought By Clorox
For >$900 million
Bought By Colgate
For $100 million
Greenwashing
Modern Day Greenwashing
• Active Naturals
• Oat, Soy, Seaweed
Oh yeah….
• Dimethicone
• Petrolatum
• Isopropyl Palmitate
Natural has no legal definition
Media
Chemical
Fear
Mongers
Natural Standards Groups
Major US Natural Standards Groups
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USDA
National Sanitation Foundation
National Product Association
OASIS
Highest Standard - NPO
• USDA regulates term “organic” as it relates to
agricultural products through its NOP
regulation, 7 CFR Part 205
• Label cosmetics as organic
if they meet same criteria
governing organic food certification
USDA – NPO labeling categories
• “100% Organic” – Contains only organically
produced ingredients
• “Organic” – Contains 95% organic ingredients
• “Made with organic…” – Contains 70%
organic ingredients
– Can’t use the seal
Labeling Confusion
USDA labeling rules
INCI labeling rules
Most people follow USDA rules
NSF / ANSI Organic Standards
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Not as strict as USDA standards
“Contains Organic Ingredients”
70% or more organic – O70
State exact percentage of organic content
Harmonized with NaTrue in EU
Natural Product Association Standards
• “Protect & equip consumers to maximize their
well being”
• Standards cover all FDA defined cosmetics
– For products labeled “Natural”
• Based on
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Natural ingredients
Safety
Responsibility
Sustainability
International Natural Standards
COSMOS Standards
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Promote organic agriculture
Use natural resources
Clean processing and manufacture
“Precautionary Principle”
Integrate Green Chemistry principles
Principles of Green Chemistry
Whole Foods Standard
• Premium Body Care Standards
• Four key areas
– Results
– Source
– Environmental Impact
– Safety
• List of 400+ ingredients not
allowed
Details of the Natural Standards
Definition of Natural
• Not Synthetically Derived or
Synthetically processed
• If it’s not from a plant, it’s not
natural
• USDA definition
• Other standards are not as strict
Common Standards
• Water is natural
• Mineral ingredients are natural
• Physically processed agromaterials are natural
• Some chemical processing of
agro materials
• Some synthetics allowed
Some Prohibited Ingredients
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Parabens
Formaldehyde Donors
Petrolatum & petroleum derived
Propylene glycols
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
Ethanolamines
Synthetic Silicones
Synthetic Fragrances
Synthetic Polymers
EDTA
Differences in Standards
• Positive List – NPA, COSMOS
• Negative List – Whole Foods, NPA
• Nanoparticles – prohibited by
COSMOS, Whole Foods. NPA? NSF?
• GMO – Prohibited by COSMOS
– Not by NPA
• Animal Testing – Prohibited by
COSMOS
Some Chemistry Allowed
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Distillation
Esterification & Etherification
Expression
Extraction
Fat Splitting
Fermentation
Hydrogenation
Protein Hydrolysis
Saponification
Sulfation – (no SLS)
How to get certified
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Learn the specifics of the certification
Create your formulas
Pay money to the certifying group
Once you’re approved, you can use the
label
• Continually get certified
Should you get Certified?
Should you get Certified? - Yes
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It appeals to consumers
Stand apart from competition
Get clear formulation guidance
It may eventually be required
Should you get Certified? - No
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Consumers don’t know standards
It costs money
It restricts formulating / innovation
You give up control
Should you get Certified?
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Learn how to create effective natural formula
Online course
Define Natural
Explore functional natural ingredients
Specific natural skin & hair formulations
How to market natural products
Started 2/17/15
• http://chemistscorner.com/natural-cosmetics