New Terms in
Sustainability
What does it all mean?
Eco-fashion
The eco-fashion movement started in the mid 70’s
as part of the hippie revolution was defined by
opting out of mainstream and going for
homemade, ethic and handcrafted fabric and
clothes. They embraced fabric such as hemp and
natural dyeing. The next wave of eco-fashion in
the 1990’s related to the dye houses and the
standards and enviromental cost involved by such
designers as Lynn Grose for Esprit and companies
as Patagonia and J Crew.
Eco-Chic the Fashion Paradox by Sandy Black
Sustainability
Development that meets the needs of the present
without compromising the ability of future
generations to meet their own needs.
This definition was created in 1987 at the World
Commission on Environment and Development (the
Brundtland Commission). It is enshrined in the
Swiss federal constitution. It is similar to the
"seventh generation" philosophy of the Native
American Iroquois Confederacy, mandating that
chiefs always consider the effects of their actions on
their descendants seven generations in the future.
http://www.sustainabilitydictionary.com/ The Dictionary of Substanability Terms
Recycle
As demand used to outstrip supply, recycling was
necessary in order to provide the required quantity
of material. The natural Quality and resilience of
wool meant that is processing of ‘remanufacturing’,
‘reclaimed’ or ‘salvaged’ wool was very popular. It
was also known as ‘shobby’ wool for it low quality
when compared to ‘Virgin Wool’. Recycled wool was
used in carpeting and industrial felt.
Wool, polyester and cotton textiles and clothing
provide excellent source materials for recycling.
Eco-Chic the Fashion Paradox by Sandy Black
Gary Harvey’s recycled
couture gowns
February 2007 collection
The collection creates a dramatic
display designed to change
people’s perception of secondhand clothing and create fashion
with a conscience. Gary uses
material he finds in places like
secondhand clothing stores to
avoid waste, he says of good
quality second hand clothing,
people "wear it one or two times
then discard it because it's
suddenly deemed aesthetically
unimportant and out of date when
there's years of life left in the
garment." His collection "was a
comment about thinking about
the real cost of the garment that
you buy, about that cost being
natural resources, exploitation of
labor, the biodegradable nature of
garments."
Baseball Puffball Dress, made from 26 nylon
baseball jackets. Sports uniforms were originally
designed to be hi-tech long lasting uniforms,
now they are non-biodegradable and are often
discarded at the end of the season.
Denim Dress, made from 41 pairs of Levi
501's. Jeans were originally made to be a
long lasting workmen's uniform, since
becoming a fashion garment they are
discarded long before their use is over.
Above dress made with laundry bags
This one dress to the left was made with
cans, bottle tops and cardboard boxes.
Upcycle
Upcycling was coined by William McDonaugh and
Michael Braugart in their book on ecologically
intelligent design, Cradle to Cradle. In the simplest
terms, upcycling is the practice of taking something
that is disposable and transforming it into something
of greater use and value. This process allows for the
reduction of waste and virgin material use.
What is Green?
From home and garden to food and health and tech
and transport, there are tons of ways we can make
our lives greener. The use of consumer awareness
and the consumer involvement of global and
environmental issues. These concerns about ethical
practices in the supply chain is working to create
pressure and change in how large companies such as
M&S, Gap and H&M create their clothing lines.
Consumers are demanding to know more about how
and where and in what conditions their cloths are
made, similar to what has happen with organic food.
Eco-Chic the Fashion Paradox by Sandy Black
Green Clothing / Substainability
1. The greenest garments are those you already own. No more
resources are required to get them to you. No more materials
extraction, manufacturing, shipping, retailing, etc. Oh, and no
cost to you.
2. Actually, strictly speaking, that’s not true about the cost. To you, or to the
environment. For research has shown that the greatest eco-burden from
clothes is not in their construction and distribution, but in their use,
specifically the laundering thereof. Washing clothing can involve large
quantities of water, energy and chemicals of a garments life. Greener
threads are those that can be cold washed and line dried. Avoid anything
that needs to be dry-cleaned.
3.
Assuming your gladrags allow such landering, the next best earth, and
wallet friendly aspects of clothing relates to their longevity. At first glance
this might appear to suggest you should only buy clothes with reinforced
elbows and double knees, and while this is true in many instances,
longevity also relates to fashion. Selecting apparel that you’ll still be
wearing in 20 years, even if made from traditional cotton is preferable, to
an organic bamboo top in which you'll look like a dag just 5 months hence.
Choose classic styles and colours that will not age. I have a jacket over 22
years old, that looks as good as the day I was given it.
4.
Longevity similarly applies to the types of materials and components used
in a garment. Buttons, for example, look dainty compared to snapfasteners. but are imminently repairable. Anyone with minimal dexterity
can sew on a new button, but replacing snaps is way more involved.
Sewing up tears, rips or holes will give treasured wardrobe fillers an even
longer life. The repaired Levis shown above are 23 years old. And have
many more years still to go, assuming I keep my waistline in check!
5. Let’s say you really do need to buy new clothes, for whatever reason. What
is the best buy? Not new at all, as it turns out. Haunt opportunity shops,
Oxfam or thrift stores to find gorgeous preloved clothing. You won’t be
alone. Very little new energy is expended in processing these garments.
Reusing someone’s hand-me-downs is not like having to lump your
brother or sister’s discards. You can choose from an amazing array of
styles. There are even boutique stores selling preloved prestige ‘labels’ in
evening and formal wear.
• Thus far we have looked at the greenest of threads and as good fortune
would have it they are also the cheapest too. From here on we do need to
delve into the purse a smidge deeper.
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http://www.treehugger.com/files/2006/06/ecotip_choosing.php
Eco-Tip: Choosing Green Clothing by Warren McLaren
Organic
With food the crop can be certified by a numerous
certifications. This means that crops were grown
without the use of conventional pesticides, artificial
fertilizers or sewage sludge, and that they were
processed without food additives (like chemical
preservatives). When it comes to animals, they must
be reared without the routine use of antibiotics and
growth hormones and fed a diet of organic foods. In
most countries, organic produce must not be
genetically modified.
http://www.treehugger.com/files/2007/09/green-basics-organic-food.php
Are you making a ecologically and /
ethically sound purchase?
We need to understand the labeling we are
now seeing on our clothing in the same way
we examine the labeling of our food. What
does natural mean? Eco, green,
environmentally friendly, sustainable, organic
are terms we are seeing on labels. If there are
no standards to and no certification behind
the labeling what does it all mean. What is
certified organic?
Global Organic Textile
Standard (GOTS)
The OTCO fiber program certifies to the Global Organic
Textile Standard (GOTS), which is dedicated specifically
for Fiber & Textile Handling and production. GOTS is a
project of the International Working Group, who
developed these consensus-based standards over many
years of discussion and deliberation. The aim of the
standard is to define requirements to ensure organic
status of textiles, from harvesting of the raw materials,
ECOFLOWER (EU)
Indicates reduced environmental impact over the
product's life-cycle compared to products which do
not meet an equivalent standard. This label was
initiated and is endorsed by the EU Commission.
European Union Ecolabelling Board is part of the
Global Ecolabelling Network (GEN) covers. It
covers 19 categories of everyday consumer
products, with the exception of foodstuffs. There
are, for example, eco-labels for textiles, paints,
refrigerators, detergents, PCs, televisions,
fertilisers, etc.
(environmentally-friendly clothing. pesticide-free
textiles, biodegradable dyes, production
processes with a low environmental impact)
Textile products bearing the OekoTex 100 certification mark are:
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Textiles that do not contain allergenic dye-stuffs and dye
stuffs .
Textiles that had been tested for pesticides and
chlorinated phenoles.
Textiles that have been tested for the release of heavy
metals under artificial perspiration conditions.
Textiles free from formaldehyde or containing trace
amounts significantly lower than the required legal
limits.
Textiles with a skin friendly pH.
Textiles free from chloro-organic carriers.
Textiles for garments free from biologically active
finishes.
Certification may be given to a finished product (such as
a shirt), or to individual components (such as yarn, or
fabric). http://www.kidbean.com/what-is-oeko-tex.html
Organic Trade Association
Organic Trade Association (OTA) is a membership-based business
association that focuses on the organic business community in
North America. OTA's mission is to promote and protect the
growth of organic trade to benefit the environment, farmers,
the public and the economy since 1985.
Why Bamboo is considered a green
fabric
Bamboo Organic Bamboo is 100% naturally
grown & sustainable. 100% pesticide &
fertilizer free. 100% biodegradable. Blocks
91% of UVA & 98% of UVB rays- naturally.
Textile Recycling for Aid and
International Development (TRAID)
It’s hard to believe it’s 10 years since TRAID launched with a mission to
fight global poverty through its clothes reuse and recycling
activities in the UK. TRAID began with a small network of clothes
recycling banks, five shops and a cunning plan to inject a much
needed dose of desirability into second hand retail. TRAID’s
attractive branding, quirky shops stocking only the best recycled
clothing and the emphasis on every garments eco credentials has
helped to change the face of charity shops forever. Today, ethical
fashion is firmly on the map and TRAID’s latest retail adventure will
see a new flagship store opening in the heart of Camden. As well as
diverting waste from landfill, clothes reuse means TRAID raise
funds in support of remarkable international development projects
to fight global poverty. Benin, Malawi, Delhi, Angola, Brazil,
Madagascar and Uganda are just some of the countries where
TRAID’s contribution has transformed the lives and livelihoods of
people living in some of the poorest regions in the world. In 2009,
TRAID is delighted to announce it is committing half a million
pounds to support development projects around the world. A
fantastic achievement that would not be possible without the
support of everyone recycling and shopping with TRAID.
http://www.traid.org.uk/partners.html
bluesign
It is also a independent environmental standard for the textile
industry. “It’s not about testing finished products. Instead,
before production begins, components and processes are
selected to ensure they meet the specified criteria.” bluesign
works for the whole textile ‘food chain’ from raw materials
through yarns, dyes, and additives, through to finished fabrics
and zippers, fasteners and other trim.
Established in 2000 with a headquarters in Switzerland, bluesign
technologies ag are working with the likes of Patagonia,
Mountain Equipment Co-op, vauDe, Nike, Marks and Spencer,
Eschler, Formosa Taffeta, Schoeller, Clariant, and Huntsman.
Terra Plana
Sustainable Footwear
TERRA PLANA tries hard to use a variety of
eco-friendly materials and innovative
minimal glue constructions. Shoes that are
good for you, shoes made from recycled
materials, the minimum shoe. The totally
sustainable shoe is still a long way off but
with each collection we get that little bit
closer.
Suzy Menkes on Estethica at the London Fashion Week
International Fair Trade
Association (IFAT)
Key Principles Of Fair Trade
1. Creating opportunities for economically
disadvantaged producers
• Fair Trade is a strategy for poverty alleviation
and sustainable development. Its purpose is to
create opportunities for producers who have
been economically disadvantaged or
marginalized by the conventional trading
system.
• 2. Transparency and accountability
• Fair Trade involves transparent management
and commercial relations to deal fairly and
respectfully with trading partners.
• 3. Capacity building
• Fair Trade is a means to develop producers’
independence. Fair Trade relationships
provide continuity, during which producers
and their marketing organizations can improve
their management skills and their access to
new markets.
• 4. Payment of a fair price
• A fair price in the regional or local context is one that has
been agreed through dialogue and participation. It covers not
only the costs of production but enables production which is
socially just and environmentally sound. It provides fair pay to
the producers and takes into account the principle of equal
pay for equal work by women and men. Fair Traders ensure
prompt payment to their partners and, whenever possible,
help producers with access to pre-harvest or pre-production
financing.
• 5. Gender Equity
• Fair Trade means that women’s work is properly valued and
rewarded. Women are always paid for their contribution to
the production process and are empowered in their
organizations.
• 6. Working conditions
• Fair Trade means a safe and healthy working
environment for producers. The participation
of children (if any) does not adversely affect
their well-being, security, educational
requirements and need for play and conforms
to the UN Convention on the Rights of the
Child as well as the law and norms in the local
context.
• http://www.tenthousandvillages.com/php/fair.trade/ifat.php