Facial and body
cosmetic massage
Dr. Sintija Strautiņa- Strēle,
Linda Zeltiņa
CIDESCO International Riga School of Cosmetics
November 24,2011
Massage
(from Greek language) – to press
with a hand, to knead.
 Massage is a measured mechanical effect
to a patient’s/client’s body with a
therapeutic, cosmetic and relaxing
impact.
 Massein
History

Massage is one of the most ancient ways of treatment.
Already for ages in various cultures it has been used for
strengthening of human physical and mental health.

The origins of the most ancient massage can be tracked
in China in year 2698 b.c., there were medical schools
and schools of gymnastics, where doctors gained the
necessary knowledge of massage

The basics of contemporary massage were established
by Peter Ling
( 1776-1839).
Massage is performed with:
hands
 feet
 apparatus
 water
 special brushes
 cold
 stones
 etc.

Massage is having effect :
 Physiologically.
Massage is having effect
to a human body as a mechanic irritant.
 Psychologically.
Major part of the clients
perceive massage as a pleasant touch
giving a sensual feeling of comfort and
relaxation helping to appraise one’s body.
Physiological effect of massage

Humoral- mechanically and directly affecting the tissues
a formation of histamine, acetilholine and other
biologically active substances is favoured

Neuro-reflective- mechanical irritation is perceived by the
receptor apparatus in skin, muscles, tendons, cords and
internal organs transforming the mechanical energy in a
buck fever energy. Flow of impulses from afferent
nerves reach the cerebral cortices and thereby induces
reflector response reactions of the skin, muscles and
internal organs.

Mechanical- tissues are compressed and moved
thereby inducing an acceleration of intercellular fluid,
lymph flow and blood circulation.
Completion of Client’s body
analysis and assessment sheet





Name, surname
Date of birth
Address, phone number
Medicine taken
Contraindication:










Acute skin diseases
High or low blood-pressure
Varicose veins
Recent operation
Pregnancy
Heart diseases
Epilepsy
Diabetes
Haematomas
Skin bruises
Completion of Client’s body
analysis and assessment sheet


Occupation
Assessment of muscle tonus
 Posture assessment
 Skin condition
 Cellulites
 Fat deposits
 Stretch marks
 Weight, length, body mass index
 Selection of massage zone- massage performed at a
particular area of the body or a massage for the whole
body
 Recommendation for body treatment at home and at the
beauty saloon
Constitutional types of the body
 Ectomorph
 Mesomorph
 Endomorph
Celullite
 Aesthetic,
cosmetic defect that visually
looks as an “orange peel”- a dimpled
appearance of the skin.
Localised areas of cellulite





Hips
Buttocks
Thighs
Upper arms
Abdomen
Stages of cellulite
1st stage
Lymphostasis in
subcutaneous adipose
tissues. Skin is even,
smooth without any
changes in color. It
takes longer time to
heal hematomas and
skin bruises. For
diagnosing it is
recommended to use
thermographic films.
Stages of cellulite
2nd stage
Chronic lymph stasis,
venous stasis.
Alterations of skin
relief. Dimples are
more apparent at
muscle tension. When
touching, a lower skin
temperature is
observed.
Stages of cellulite
3rd stage
Chronic lymph stasis,
venous stasis, a
deteriorated
microcirculation. Local to
a diffuse fibrosis in the
subcutaneous fat layer micronodules, which can
be palpated. Skin is
dimpled and looks like an
“orange peel”. Skin is
cold by touch. When
pressing on separate
thickening areas, one has
painful sensations.
Stages of cellulite
4th stage
Cellulite is apparant also
at relaxed muscles.
Micronodules are
integrated in
macronodules. Due to
the microcirculatory
disorders, the skin in the
areas affected by cellulite
is cold with a bluish tone.
When pressing, one has
painful feelings.
Macronodules are also
called as cellulite stones.
Posture deviations
 Scoliosis
 Lordosis
 Kyphosis
Indications
Preventive measures for all healthy humans!
 Skin and muscle trophic disturbances
 Celullite
 Abatement of oedema
 Hypertensic, painful muscles
 Local fat deposits, obesity
Contraindications:







Bad overall health conditionheart, kidneys and liver
failure, fever, acute
respiratory diseases,
tonsillitis, sickness, vomiting,
Malignant diseases
Acute skin diseases
Dermal mycosis,
furunculosis, nettle-rash,
angioneurotic oedema,
Lymphadenitis
Joint inflammation
Thrombophlebitis,
thrombosis









Blood diseases
Chronic osteomyelitis
Acute pain
Hematoma, acute injuries
Acute ulcer stages
Uterine hemorrhage
Acute gynecological adnexitis
Psychic disorders
Pregnancy
Topographical anatomy of the
back
 Bones
 Muscles
 Blood-vessels,
 Nerves
lymph nodes
Topographical anatomy of the
arm
 Bones
 Muscles
 Blood
vessels, lymph nodes
 Nerves
Topographical anatomy of the
pelvis and leg
 Bones
 Muscles
 Blood
vessels, lymph nodes
 Nerves
Topographical anatomy of the
abdomen
 Muscles
 Blood
vessels, lymph nodes
 Nerves
 Internal organs
Topographical anatomy of the
chest
 Bones
 Muscles
 Blood
vessels, lymph nodes
 Nerves
 Internal organs
Effects of massage
To nervous system ( coordinates an integrated activity of all vital
functions of the human body):
 Reduces activity of sympathetic nervous system
 Reduces fatigue, stress and increases the mental work abilities
 Improves the transmission of nerve impulse processes.
Heart-blood vessel systems:
 Blood flows from the internal organs to skin and muscles
 Expand peripheral blood vessels
 Improve blood supply to tissues and accelerate capillary blood
circulation
 Affect the tissue trophicity processes
 Facilitate and accelerate venous blood circulation
 Facilitate heart work and improve blood supply to cardiac muscle
 Reduce blood pressure and decelerate heart rate
Effects of massage
Lymphatic system:

Speed of the lymph flow in largest lymphatic vessels is four
mm/sec. Through the thoracic duct ( ductus thoracicus) all the
lymph flows through only six times in twenty-four-hours

Massage empties cells from the end-products of metabolism,
reduces lymph stasis and oedema.
Muscle system:

Affects the blood and lymph flow in muscles

Enhances elimination of lactic acid

Restores muscle capacity two to four times (the number of active
capillaries increases in muscles). In1mm² of the cross- section of
muscles there are opened and functioning 1400 of capillaries

Increases or reduces muscle tone

Most effective are kneading techniques ( petrissage)
Effects of massage
Joint and ligament system:

Increases elasticity and agility of ligaments

Influences blood and lymph flow in bones and joints.

Most effectively works with friction.
Skin:

Purifies the skin from dead horny cells

Improves blood supply to tissues, increases skin
temperature

Affects the venous and lymph flow, decreases
oedemas

Improves skin and subcutaneous tissue trophicity

Enhances the activity of sweat and sebaceous glands
Effects of massage










Respiratory systemReduces the frequency of breathing,
Increases the oxygen intake and the carbon dioxide elimination,
Improves the blood and lymph flow in respiratory organs and
muscles
Enhances expectoration
Digestive systemImproves small intestine peristalsis,
Stimulates blood and lymph flow, thereby improving the absorption
of nutrients.
Increases secretion of bile
Internal organs are most effectively affected by vibration techniques
of massage.
Effects of massage
 Urogenital

Increases the elaboration of urine, mineral
salts, urea and uric acid.
 Endocrine

system-
system-
Improves blood, lymph circulation, activates
functional activity of internal secretion glands.
Improves self-comfort.
Requirements to cosmetician at
performance of massage :

Clothes: in a white color, with short sleeves, comfortable,
neat, well ironed
 Hands: manicured, without nail varnish, short nails
 Hair: clean, not falling onto eyes and face during the
procedure
 Make-up: a light day make-up
 Footwear: light, comfortable, neat, on a low heal or
without, not making noise
 Bijouterie: no bijouterie( also no wedding ring), an
exception can be small earrings)
 Perfume: no perfume
Hand training
Necessary materials and conditions
for performance of massage:















Couch
Chair
Towels of various sizes
Towels for compresses/ gloves
Movable table
Small pallets of various sizes
Skin disinfection liquid
Skin cleansing lotions (body peeling)
Massage creams and oils
Body masks, creams and lotions
Disposable panties
Auxiliary materials- napkins, spatulas, etc..
Clock
Temperature at premises may not be lower than 20-22°C.
Premises shall be painted in warm tones, filled with pleasant aroma and
enjoyable music
Preparation of the client for a
massage
analysis and assessment sheet
shall be filled in
 Clothes shall be taken off ( disposable
panties)
 Bijouterie shall be taken off
 Selection of massage pose
 For performance of the back massage ,
hair band shall be used
 Placement of the massage bolsters,
depending of the chosen pose
 Client’s
Placement of massage bolsters

When lying on back



When lying on belly


Massage bolster is placed under the neck curve ( not
obligatory)
Placed under the knees – straighten out back/neck
/waist, hips and knee joint are placed in a
physiological position
Massage bolster is placed under the feet joints.
When massaging the back, the bolster may be
placed under the belly.
 Neck and head massage is performed on a
special chair
Preparation of the client for a
massage
 Cleansing
of the skin
 Application of the massage oil or cream
Massage oils and lotions
 Massage
cream
 Massage oil
 Talc powder
 Massage gel
Posture of cosmetician
5 basic techniques/methods of
massage
 Stroking
( effleurage)
 Friction
 Kneading(
petrissage)
 Percussion ( tapotement)
 Vibration
Massage techniques
 Techniques
of classical massage are
performed in a prescribed sequence and
manner, that are related to the intensity of
action and the depth.
 Stroking- friction- kneading- percussionvibration
Stroking( effleurage)

Hand of the masseur is gliding over the skin
without shirring it
 This is the initial technique of the massage, also
performed in between the other techniques and
at the end of massage. The emphasis is put on
the middle part of the stroking.
Stroking
Flat
Comprehensive
Sublimis
Deep
Simultaneous
Alternately
Continuous
Interrupted
Rules:

When performing stroking, palms of the hands
should fit tight to the client’s skin
 There should be no space between the palm
and the skin
 Hands should be relaxed
 Stroking shall be performed gently, smoothly
and slowly in a direction of lymph flow-to the
nearest lymph node areas
Effect of the stroking:
 To
get introduced to the client’s body
 Exfoliation of epidermis
 Improves blood provision to the skin
 Improves venous and lymph flow, reduces
oedema
 Relaxes skeleton muscles
Friction

A massage technique pushing aside the skin
 Performed by fingers and palms
Effect of friction :
 Increases
supply of blood and lymph to
the massage area- a warming effect
 Loosening cicatrices
 Anesthetic
 Prepares the skin for the other massage
techniques
 Improves the agility of joints
Kneading ( petrissage)
 Effect
on muscles
Muscle shall be taken in hands, pressed on,
lifted upwards and put in the initial position
 Longitudinal
kneading- longitudinally
cross the muscle fibres
 Cross-kneading – cross over the muscle
fibres
Effect of the kneading:
 Induces
muscle hyperemia
 Enhances elimination of metabolic endproducts from muscles- restores muscle
performance (reduces acidosis)
 Improves muscle performance(muscular
endurance, strength, elasticity)
Percussion (Tapotement)
- Very intense effect, increases blood pressure,
improves blood circulation, lymph flow, improves
muscle tone
Performed with palms of the hands, finger tips
Rules:
 Shall not be applied if muscles are overworked,
exhausted and crampy
 Arm wrists shall be relaxed
 Shall not be performed on neck, heart area,
kidney area, abdomen, spinal cord, joints
Vibration

a relaxing effect (reducing muscle
tension)
Vibration
 Vibration
possesses a particular reflectory
and relaxing efffect
 Heart rate is slowed down
 Reflectory effect to internal organsnormalizes the secretory and motor
functions of internal organs
Sequence of overall massage
 Back
 Backs
of the legs
 Front of the legs
 Abdomen
 Chest
 Arms
Length of massage depends on the scheme
of techniques and areas of treatment -2060-90 minutes.
 Course of treatment-1-2-3 times a week,
treatment course up to 10 visits.
Topographical anatomy of face
 Bones
 Muscles
 Blood
vessels, lymph nodes
 Nerves
Facial skin types
 Dry
 Oily
 Combined
 Normal
Cosmetic facial classical massage
Massage areas:
 face;
 neck;
 decollete area.
Massage length:
20 min
Indications:








Improvement of micorcirculation;
Enhancement of venous flow;
Improvement of facial muscles tone;
Toning up and correction of facial oval;
Smoothing of small, sublime wrinkles;
Relaxation of client;
Secondary – nutritioning of facial skin,
moisturising;
Recommended as prophylactic for clients aged
25-30.
Preparation of facial, neck and décolleté area
skin :
 Cleansing
of facial, neck and decollete
area skin;
 Application of a hot compress ;
 Peeling;
 Application of vaposone steamer prior to
massage.
Preconditions to be observed prior and
during the massage :





Creation of comfortable and pleasant environment during
the massage treatment (premises, decorations, pleasant
music, lighting, air temperature);
Avoidance of discussions with the client during the
procedure;
Selection of correct and suitable massage oil or cream;
Precise observance of Langer’s lines and fixation places;
Intensity of massage movements dependence on the
skin type and condition
Contraindications:


Purulent efflorescence;
Dermatitis, eczemas, psoriasis (only with a permission of
a physician );
 Enlarged lymph nodes;
 Herpes;
 Acute respiratory diseases;
 Recent visit to the dentist;
 Cerebral commotion(up to 6 months);
 Dizziness;
 Dynamic blood circulation disturbances
 Neo growths on face(oncology);
 Infectious eye diseases;
 Allergic reactions to the massage oil or cream.
Basic principles to be observed during a massage









Massage shall be performed slowly;
Langer’s lines shall be observed;
Hands shall not be taken off the face, neck or décolleté area
during the massage;
Massage movements shall not be applied in the area of thyroid
gland;
Joining movements that are performed against the Langer’s lines
shall be worked in a gentle manner without moving the skin aside;
Fixation places are performed in a precise manner;
Hand movements are gentle and plastic, fitting close to the face;
Time anticipated for the massage shall be observed – 20 minutes
( together with the décolleté area);
The applied massage oil or cream shall be enough during all the
treatment procedure.
Short summary








Massage is among the most ancient medical therapies.
For prophylactic purposes, massage is recommended to any healthy individual
Massage has an effect on all organ systems of a human body.
Classic massage has five basic stroke techniques (four according to alternative
classifications). The strokes should be applied in a definite sequence dictated by the
intensity and depth of their effect.
The duration of a massage depends on the selected combination of techniques, the
number of treatment areas and may be 20-60-90 minutes.
Recommendable 1-2-3 times per week, up to 10 times in the massage therapy cycle.
Classical facial cosmetic massage is applied to the face, neck and decolette area and
lasts 20 minutes.
The facial massage cycle consists of 15-20 treatments 1-2 times per week; the cycle
to be repeated after 2 months.
Thank you for your attention!