THE VODAFONE LONDON FASHION WEEKEND
DIGITAL MAGAZINE
issue
07
THE Edit
PACKED WITH FASHION
FOR THE FASHION PACK
THE Trend ISSUE
Welcome to the seventh issue of
The Edit, the Vodafone London Fashion
Weekend digital magazine. Packed
full of fashion, trends, designer
interviews and information about
London’s must-attend consumer
fashion event, The Edit will be
keeping you updated in the run up to
September’s big weekend.
They’ve been compiled for us by
ShopStyle and if you really want to
get the jump on the season, you can
use shopstyle.co.uk to start putting
together your look.
We’ve called this issue the Trend issue
because we like to think that Vodafone
London Fashion Weekend sets the
trends and brings them to you here first.
So, in the spirit of giving you the heads
up, we reveal the last two brands that
will be taking to the runway in our
Designer Highlight Catwalk Shows.
And because trends are shaping
the way we consume fashion, we’ve
spoken to three women who use
trends in their jobs and find out how
the industry is changing infront of
our eyes - all part of our new Chic
Careers column.
In Trendspotting Autumn Winter 2012,
we preview the Big 5, the key trends
that we think you’ll be shopping and
sporting this season.
Next up, we get geeky with excitement
about Mirror Mirror, the new
technology on show this September.
Last but not least in Spotlight,
we talk to the peope behind
inspirational brands Aubin & Wills
and Issa London and see how
Autumn Winter 2012 is looking
through their creative filter.
TREND
DEFINING LABELS,
ALICE BY TEMPERLEY
& DAKS CONFIRMED
FOR OUR
DESIGNER HIGHLIGHT
CATWALK SHOWS
Remember back
in Issue 5 when
we confirmed that
ISSA London and
Twenty8Twelve would
be showcasing their
collections in our
all-new Designer
Highlight Catwalk
Shows?
Well, the line- up just
got even better.
We are delighted to be able to confirm
that world renowned British brands,
ALICE by Temperley and DAKS will both
be taking to the catwalk, completing
our Designer Highlight Catwalk Show
schedule.
New for this season, our Designer
Highlight Shows are an opportunity for
you to enjoy the true Vodafone London
Fashion Weekend experience as four
iconic British brands take to the runway
to showcase their entire new collections
solely for your enjoyment.
ALICE by Temperley
DESIGNER
HIGHLIGHT
CATWALK
SHOW
TIMETABLE
TICKETS FROM £24
THURSDAY 20th:
FRIDAY 21st: SATURDAY 22nd:
SUNDAY 23rd: 1.30pm DAKS
1.30pm Issa London
5.30pm Issa London
11.00am ALICE by Temperley
7.00pm ALICE by Temperley
11.30am Twenty8Twelve
4.00pm Twenty8Twelve
DAKS
WANT TO
KNOW MORE?
DAKS
The DAKS name has always been
synonymous with British heritage, style
and elegance. Originally founded in
1894, today DAKS is one of the UK’s
most quintessentially British luxury
labels.
American born Head of Design,
Sheila McKain-Waid, made her debut
for DAKS at London Fashion Week
in 2010. For Autumn/Winter 2012,
McKain-Waid took inspiration from the
British landscape and architecture. The
key focus is on construction and the
shapes created by smocking, cutting
and pleating techniques. The collection
boasts and array of oversized tweed
coats, wool pleated skirts and silk twill
dresses with a strong focus on layering.
ALICE BY TEMPERLEY
Temperley London celebrated its 10th Anniversary last
year and Creative Director, Alice Temperley, received an
MBE for her outstanding services to fashion. 2012 looks
just as exciting with the opening of the brand’s first flagship
London store in November and also the welcoming of
ALICE by Temperley to the Vodafone London Fashion
Weekend Schedule.
ALICE by Temperley captures the spirit of Temperley but for
everyday, using early Temperley shapes and creating easy
feminine pieces with a sense of fun. There is an eclectic use
of prints and fabrics such as chiffon, French lace and Italian
leather thus creating a strong and feminine look.
TRENDSPOTTING
AUTUMN/
WINTER 2012
With Vodafone London Fashion Weekend less than two weeks
away, we thought you might like a sneak preview of some of
the key trends for Autumn/Winter 2012 - so you can start
planning your shopping list and work out which designers
to blitz, of course.
Logo in black
‘BIG 5’
Logo in white
GESTUZ WOMEN’S
STUDIO BLACK
LEATHER SKIRT £107
DKNY BLACK SHORT
SLEEVE LEATHER
COMBO DRESS £632
WORLD OF
LEATHER
We asked our style savvy friends at ShopStyle to give us
the lowdown on the 5 key trends to look out for this season.
Here’s what they had to say…
ASOS FLOWER & JEWEL
DROP EARRINGS £15
RUPERT SANDERSON
ANKLE BOOT £639
ERICKSON BEAMON
PYRAMID CRYSTAL
NECKLACE £869.62
FEMME
FABERGE
From coats to trousers and skirts,
leather is set to be everywhere.
Designers from Jonathan Saunders to
Givenchy have channelled their inner
goth through both edgy and ladylike
designs. Featured in panelled blocks
to leather-trim, this trend will adorn the
models and style stars of Somerset
House. Best used in sleek and sexy
silhouettes pencil skirts and skinny
jeans – there’s never been a better time
to unleash your inner Catwoman!
With cinematic eye candy Anna
Karenina due for release this
September, fall fashion remembers
the power of elegance, glamour and
embellishment.
TOPSHOP GABBI
TOECAP POINTED
COURTS £50
TOPSHOP CO-ORD
EMBELLISHED
CROP JACKET £95
ShopStyle’s key piece this year is the
embellished trophy jacket – one that
can be thrown over skinny denim or
heighten an already stunning dress.
We’ll definitely be wearing Stella
McCartney’s brocade print dress,
paired with statement necklaces that
are worthy of Her Majesty.
ACNE RITA LEATHER
BIKER JACKET £791
‘BIG 5’
Logo in black
Logo in white
ERDEM ELODIE
PRINTED SILK
BLOUSE £430
£172
SONIA BY SONIA
RYKIEL BLAZER
JACKET £315
DSQUARED2
£890
PETER PILOTTO
‘PEK’ DRESS £605
WOMEN’S
LAUREN BY
RALPH LAUREN
AINEE MILITARY
STYLE WOOL
JACKET £240
PRETTY
IN PLUM
Forget channelling your favourite 80s
movie, this season sees Pink turn to a
more sophisticated Plum. Stash your
LBDs to the back of the closet, as
purple pieces take centre stage.
As Christopher Kane’s lavender runway
was rolled out, this mature hue has
made a low-key, yet statement-worthy,
entrance as this new season’s essential
shade. A peplum dress in plum adds
grown-up charm, while aubergine jeans
(for him or her) create a playful pop of
colour. Also try raspberry and burgundy
tones for an easy Autumn update.
PRADA JERSEY DIAMOND
PRINT TEE £155
PRINTS
CHARMING
Forget Prince Harry’s blushes and
discover your Prints Charming.
The designers signalled that the
drab days of winter were over when
everyone from Erdem and Prada to
Peter Pilloti sent mega-watts of prints
down the runway.
Digital florals to Oriental opulence
adorn bomber jackets, structured
dresses and silk shirts. Take a page
from Suno and mix up your patterns
for a fresh take on your favourite
textiles. Just remember to rock neutral
make-up with this look - nude lips and
bronzy contouring add the perfect
finishing touch.
FRENCH CONNECTION
SWALLOW SWOOP
WATERFALL JACKET £95
COAST IRAH SHIFT
DRESS £110
J. MENDEL CAP SLEEVE
DRESS £1,269
DUNE WOMEN’S
ABRIDGE SPECIAL
OCCASION HEELS £85
KALIKO SATIN
WRAP DRESS £110
CAPTAIN
MAJOR
This autumn, we predict that
camouflage gear will be storming the
city. From military style coats to the
abundance of khaki, add a touch of
soldier-chic to your wardrobe. The
last-season-essential leather-sleeved
parka is not going anywhere. In fact
more is more as we see a revival in
olive green tones, brass buttons and
weather resistant fabrics. Team with
wool blend pieces or floaty fabrics, a
double-breasted coat à la Burberry
Prosum or Mango to keep you warm
and on-trend.
MIRROR
MIRROR
THE LATEST IN
SHOPPING TECHNOLOGY
ON SHOW AT VODAFONE
LONDON FASHION
WEEKEND
We like to keep your retail experience ahead
of the curve and this season is no different.
In fact we’re really mixing it up, showcasing
some really futuristic technology that looks set
to take the high street by storm in the not too
distant future.
Tech couture company, C-Instore will
be unveiling their augmented reality
technology in the form of their new
Virtual Fashion Mirror.
We know it sounds more like
something you’d see in a movie but this
technology is actually here and now
and ready for you to experience.
What does it do? Well, the Virtual
Fashion Mirror lets you ‘try on’ outfits
without even having to think about
setting foot in a changing room.
Cameras located within the mirror
simply capture your body dimensions
and then superimpose your choice of
items onto your body. It’s a fast and
efficient way to try on a wide variety of
items and see what suits your look.
The clever C-Instore Virtual Fashion
Mirror doesn’t just stop there though
– you can also share and email your
virtual collections and purchase them
too. With recommendations and styling
additions to help complete your look,
you can try styles, brand and colour
combinations with the flick of a hand.
To try on collections from DAKS, Issa
London, Twenty8Twelve and ALICE by
Temperley, visit the the C-Instore Virtual
Fashion Mirror at the foot of the catwalk
at Vodafone London Fashion Weekend.
The future is now.
CHIC
CAREERS
HOW TO BECOME
A RETAIL QUEEN
You’ve got your tickets
booked for September but
have you ever thought
about a making career in
the fashion industry?
In our new Career Chic
column, we meet some
of the women who are
shaping the future of
British shopping.
Theirs aren’t the kind of jobs
a Career Advisor will tell
you about or even that you’ll
find advertised so we find
out what their jobs entail,
how you can get started and
gauge how retail is shaping
up for the next generation
of Innovations Consultants,
Fashion Marketers and
Designers:
INNOVATIONS
CONSULTANT
The Innovations Consultant Bhanita
Mistry-Russell is Managing Director of LAB
Innovation, an innovation strategy consultancy.
She helps companies navigate, innovate and
grow through changing times. Her company,
LAB Innovation works across all sectors but
Bhanita has a particular fondness for the fashion
sector, having worked with brands including
my-wardrobe, Ecco and Denham the jeanmaker
and designers including Todd Lynn and
Iris van der Herpen.
HOW
I started as agency planner at Saatchi’s
at the end of the 90’s. I worked on
advertising and brand strategy across
sectors from Imodium to Olay. It was a
fabulous creative learning experience.
For someone who is endlessly curious
about the details of peoples lives, being
paid to be nosy about how people shop
around the globe, was just incredible.
After that I spent a few years working
for an innovation consultancy, helping
companies envision the future of their
company, inventing new products and
services and studying global innovators.
In 2007, I decided to go it alone and set
up LAB to collide the visioning, strategy,
research and creative process by
assembling the best creative talent to
crack innovation challenges based on
deep customer insight.
AN AVERAGE DAY
Every day is different so there’s no such
thing as an average day. I’m lucky in
that I get to bury my head into different
challenges all the time. For example,
at the moment I’m working with a
large Danish company to innovate in
bags and accessories. We’ve studied
the problems people have with their
bags and what they’re looking for,
we’ve worked out a design aesthetic
that fits the brand, we’ve run design
and prototyping workshops inviting a
handpicked group of designers who
work across different industries to get
their hands dirty on bag design and
I’m just about to set up some research
among some global style influencers
to give us their views on the design
thinking so far. It’s a really stimulating
experience. The products will launch
early next year - so it’s satisfying to
see something come to market and be
involved from start to finish.
“Every day is different so
there’s no such thing as an
average day. I’m lucky in
that I get to bury my head
into different challenges all
the time.”
THE PREVALENCE OF
DIGITAL AND ONLINE
Online brands like ASOS had stolen
a march on the department store
model, but now we’re seeing more
and more shopping aggregator sites
like ShopStyle curate products from all
the various sources. Information is no
longer limited, we all have access now
and it means we’re all more discerning.
FANCY BECOMING
AN INNOVATIONS
CONSULTANT?
If you like the sound of
what an Innovations
Consultant like Bhanita
does, here are a few tips
from Bhanita to help
you get started:
•
Immerse yourself in the world around you. From your weekly shop to that photography exhibition, everything around you is potential inspiration and food for your brain.
•
Be endlessly curious. Why does your Mum, best friend, sister or even the bloke at the bus stop
choose a particular brand or
product? Questionning people’s choices will help you make sense
of segmentation but also pinpoint gaps in the market. Innovation is all about seeing opportunities and
understanding how a particular
product or service might enrich peoples’ lives.
•
Travel as much as you can. Seeing different cultures will help
you understand how people from different places tick
THE FASHION
MARKETER
Liz Sowden is a well-known Fashion Marketer.
She has held senior roles at leading fashion
brands including Thomas Pink, Jigsaw
and Monsoon and now consults for a
number of major brands.
In her role as head of marketing for fashion
brands, Liz has to develop creative and inspiring
ways to encourage people to see, want and
ultimately buy the brand she is promoting.
HOW
My first graduate job was marketing
for Guinness, so classic brand
management training. From there
I wanted to get into a more creative
arena, so I moved into fashion retail
marketing, taking a role at Thomas
Pink. Initially the company was privately
owned before being bought by luxury
goods house, LMVH. This transition
from small company to part of a
worldwide luxury empire, really helped
me understand marketing is on a
global scale.
AN AVERAGE DAY
As anyone in retail will tell you there
is no average day. However my
usual day might include a breakfast
with a fashion journalist to discuss
product placement opportunities, a
morning brand planning session with
my marketing team to allocate roles
a responsibilies, a meeting with our
creative and digital agencies to discuss
our communications strategies and
campaigns, meetings with our stake
holders within the business to discuss
how marketing is working to support
become more widely available as
our sales objectives. This would
techniques such as laser scanning and
probably lead on to my working through even 3D printing develop further and
our sales forecasts and assessing key
become more accessible. One day – in
volumes drivers, successes and failures. the not too distant future – I think you
A long but fulfilling day might then be
could end up scanning yourself in and
topped off with an evening focus group ‘printing’ off your own shoes or skirt!
to gauge the thoughts and feelings of
our consumers so we can ensure our
campaigns resonate with them.
“This transition from small
company to part of a
worldwide luxury empire,
really helped me understand
marketing is on a global scale.”
If you like the sound
of what an Fashion
Marketer does, here are
a few tips from Liz to
help you get started:
HOW FASHION AND
RETAIL IS CHANGING
From a fashion marketing perspective,
it has to be the erosion of the in-store/
online mindset. Customers don’t divide
their world up in that way any more
and retailers need to act accordingly. I
think most companies now realise it
is important in theory but it does take
investment in IT and infrastructure to
do it well in practise
Design, quality and customer service
will continue to improve as shoppers,
quite rightly, become more demanding
and discerning. Bespoke pieces will
FANCY BECOMING
A FASHION MARKETER?
JIGSAW
•
If you can, start your marketing career in a blue chip FMCG company. Although its not
necessarily the most glamorous place to start your career, you’ll get a great grounding in the basics of marketing and learn a lot about consumer behaviour. Alternatively, if
your academic qualifications don’t allow you that path, try to get in at whatever entry point you can to a company/brand that interests and
inspires you - as an intern if necessary, and demonstrate enthusiasm, ideas and a willing attitude.
•
Read up on your discipline.
There are so many brilliant and inspiring marketing books available these days. Also subscribe to blogs and vlogs. Mark Ritson is a
personal favourite.
•
Be can do. I believe that a career in fashion marketing is as much about using your initiative and energy as it is about using your intellect. Be prepared to start at the bottom and show your commitment and drive from the start.
When a customer sends me an email
and tells me how they bought one of
my scarves as a gift and has since
bought one for themselves, I know
that all the elements of the design,
production and sales process have
been appreciated.
THE
DESIGNER
Sara Ebbett is the
founder and designer of
Sara Ebbett, a British
scarf label known for
its creative prints and
use of the finest wools
and silks.
HOW
After leaving university, I started working
in the luxury interiors market and was
regularly commissioned for my hand
drawn prints for artwork.
months of the year makes it all the
more challenging and exciting. I’m able
to see how fashion is evolving in the
Middle East and gather all that insight
for when I’m back in the UK.
I love what I do so designing a
collection is really when I get to be
as creative as I can so I will hide in
my studio with paints, inks, fabrics
and mood boards surrounding me.
Travelling to Italy to work with my team
on production is a highlight as it’s
always amazing seeing my drawings
and prints transform into beautiful
scarves. I manage my own Press
and PR at the moment so it’s great
to actually get to meet the editors,
bloggers and fashion community who
write about my designs. There’s nothing
I love more than talking fashion - it
doesn’t feel like work.
Gaining experience in the operations
and management of a creative business
gave me the confidence to start my
own business. I showed my designs
at an exhibition where I met Florence
Torrens (ex Elle Fashion Editor) who
encouraged me to pursue my dream.
The rest is Sara Ebbett scarves.
HOW FASHION AND
RETAIL IS CHANGING:
Conversation doesn’t mean
compromising the design aesthetic: As
a designer, I can see that creating a
dialogue with the customer is becoming
increasingly important. You can have a
two-way conversation without having to
compromise design.
AN AVERAGE DAY
Running a studio/business is very
demanding as there are many aspects
you must keep on top of. Being based
between London and Dubai for a few
Quality = Success: Brands are wearing
their commitment to quality like a badge
of honour and this can only be a good
thing for the consumer. Quality and
creativity is part of my brand ethos.
“I love what I do so designing
a collection is really when
I get to be as creative as I can
so I will hide in my studio
with paints, inks, fabrics
and mood boards
surrounding me.”
Luxury brands step up to deliver true
luxury experiences: Luxury brands
are under the microscope and have to
create the best customer experience.
Not only do they need to justify their
price point, they also need to be able
to connect with the consumer – to be
able to provide a piece of that lifestyle.
We are all now so much more well
travelled and have information readily
at our fingertips. The result is that
we expect premium products with
premium service.
FANCY BECOMING
A DESIGNER?
If you like the sound
of what a Designer like
Sara does, then she has
a few tips to help you
get started:
• Learn your craft but also be sure to learn about business. The commercial side of creativity can be
where some designers run into difficulty
• Find your niche and your unique
signature style and then make sure that everything you create fits your brand and is crafted to connect with your consumer.
• Stay true to your vision and
goals. I strongly believe that anyone
who works hard and listens to the advice given to them during their fashion journey has the ability
to succeed.
• Back yourself and be prepared to talk about what you do to anyone who will listen. In the UK
we have a funny attitude to
networking but talking to people
is often the only way to open up opportunities.
•
Don’t worry about selling
yourself too much. As long as you’re not overbearing or insensitive, if people like what you’ve got to say
and like your product, then you should be confident to tell them all
about it. Remember, it’s just a chat about something interesting at the end of the day.
SPOTLIGHT ON:
Last week we were fortunate enough to interview the
fantastic Pauric Sweeney. We’re not resting on our laurels
though. In fact, this week we have a double designer
whammy for you, Aubin & Wills and Issa London’s
Creative Direct, Daniella Helayel.
SPOTLIGHT ON:
AUBIN & WILLS
First, we caught up with the team behind
classically inspired, modern British label,
Aubin & Wills to discuss all things Aubin & Wills
and Autumn Winter 2012. We’re super excited
to find out more about this dapper brand,
especially as it’s their first time at
Vodafone London Fashion Weekend.
THE AUTUMN WINTER 2012
COLLECTION IS:
Inspired by the past for living in the
present. We source from the finest
artisanal manufacturers to create
beautifully crafted clothes.
English craftsmanship as well as
British heritage and tradition plays a
key role in our new season collection.
We concentrate on British made
products and the use of British
fabrications, reviving lost traditional
British craft and techniques.
Inspiration also comes from the
aesthetic movement and their ideals of
nature, elevation of beauty and concept
of arts for art’s sake. The recurring
theme of natural symbolism within their
craft; where the peacock, the lily and
the sunflower all symbolise the elevation
of the ordinary into beauty. We draw on
this in the collection to create naturally
inspired rich colour stories and organic
print and patterns.
KEY PIECES
For women, the key pieces in the
collection are the British woven
tailored Tweenham blazer in Green
Harris Tweed, the silk and slim fitting
Beachwood blouse with Peter Pan
collar and the Irby dress which comes
in a lovely autumnal leaf print.
For men, there is the Prestwick blazer
also woven in Britain, the selection of
classic blue shirts, an all year round
cornerstone in every man’s wardrobe,
and our range of luxurious leather
goods including the Cammello brown
Gisborough iPad2 Case and the
patent Lotherton document wallets.
FABRICS AND COLOUR
STORIES FOR THIS SEASON
In order to be able to use the British
fabrics and yarns we wanted for
this collection we have collaborated
with British manufacturers including;
Fox Brothers and Co, Jamiesons of
Shetland, a family owned business
established in 1890 that produces
100% Shetland-spun yarn and
Marling and Evans, a Cotswold based
manufacturer specialising in wool
based fabrics including luxury cavalry
twills and Saxony suiting.
Elsewhere in the collection, textured
knits rework traditional knit detailing in
new contemporary colours to combine
heritage and fashion and a variety of
silks are used in the women’s collection
to celebrate classic femininity.
The colours used are seasonally
autumnal, inspired directly from nature,
with rustic browns and natural reds
alongside luxurious opulent tones such
as peacock blue and intense coral.
TWEENHAM
THREDDINGWORTH
IRBY DRESS
TIPS FOR CONSUMERS LOOKING
TO BAG AN AUBIN & WILLS ITEM
We’d like to encourage people to start
thinking about, and wearing British
woven, tailored outerwear items.
Pieces like our Threddingworth coat
or Attadale blazer captures British
eccentricity at its best.
IPAD CASE
MUSE FOR THIS SEASON?
Sophie Dahl and Andre Van Noord –
the stars of this season’s campaign.
PARTING SHOT
Look out for the Aubin & Wills Swift
Red Fox. Featured in the collection,
this dapper gentleman symbolises our
beautifully crafted clothing as well as
the brand’s creative and cultural ethos.
RUDBY
VISIT WEBSITE
WELIMEADOW
SPOTLIGHT ON:
ISSA LONDON
We met the gorgeous Daniella Helayel,
Creative Director of Issa to discover the back
story behind her equally gorgeous designs.
WHO, WHAT, WHERE
Daniella Helayel. Creative Director
of Issa. Born and raised in Brazil,
studied at F.I.T in New York, now
lives in London.
IT ALL STARTED…
It was after I’d been living in London
for a few years that I decided to start
designing my own clothes. I was
spending time with a lot of beautiful
girls but they were always dressed
down, very casual so I wanted to give
them equally beautiful dresses to wear.
My wardrobe was filled with vintage,
there was nothing new I wanted to buy
so that’s when I started designing for
myself and friends and Issa was born.
THE BIG BREAK
In 2004/2005 a lot of A list celebrities
started wearing Issa London Madonna, Keira Knightly, Sharon Stone,
Scarlett Johansson. Everything that
followed came from there. I’m very
grateful that they liked my dresses
enough to choose them.
The Issa design aesthetic is made up
of bold colours and beautiful striking
prints. Simple shapes designed to
flatter all types of body shapes.
DESIGNER HIGHLIGHT
CATWALK SHOW
FRIDAY 21st: 1.30pm 5.30pm What’s important to me is making
women feel confident and there is a
certain formula which seems to work
in my designs. In three words, Simple,
Glamorous and Comfortable.
WHAT’S NEW FOR
AUTUMN WINTER 2012
For this season we had a lot of
fun sourcing unique fabrics for this
collection which were in keeping
with the lavish, ornate inspiration:
shimmering bronze lace, burnt-out
velvet, fur trims, cashmere-blend
outerwear. Alongside our classic
silk jersey, which feels as effortlessly
seductive to wear as it looks as well
as our knitwear which sculpts a an
amazing silhouette. My favourite pieces
from this collection are all the Knitwear
pieces and the jacquard print dresses.
THE MUSE
Jackie O – she wasn’t just ‘the
President’s wife’ she was her own
inspirational, independent character
and will be remembered for her
influence on modern elegance.
THE SORT OF WOMAN WHO
WEARS ISSA LONDON
The Issa woman is any woman
who wants to be confident, glamorous
and chic. She tends to be someone
with responsibilities, whether she
is an executive or a housewife, she
effortlessly elegant. She is always
on the move with her eventful
lifestyle: work, lunches, meetings,
parties, travelling.
SOUND LIKE YOU?
The new collection from Issa will be
available to shop at Vodafone London
Fashion weekend via the C-Instore
Virtual Fashion Mirror.
VISIT WEBSITE