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The encylopdedia of free energy on compact disk
MOTOR DIAGRAMS AND LAB NOTES
Motor Diagrams And Lab Notes
The lab notes and diagrams on this page were built by John Bedini and
Ron Cole. The theory is all Tom Bearden's, and comes out of the book
"TOWARD A NEW ELECTROMAGNETICS PART 4: VECTORS AND MECHANISMS
CLARIFIED"
The circuit diagrams that are in this section are for people with electronic
backgrounds. Some of the parts are outdated and will need to be
replaced."PLEASE DO NOT CHANGE THINGS UNTIL THEY WORK"
Copyright © 1996
John Bedini Home Page
This page copied from of John Bedini Motor Diagrams And Lab Notes web page
email John Bedini
Check some of these pages from our other webpages at this website
Hamel Searl disk electrification process
Hamel mini ufo flying disk construction detials
Photos of the Hamel from previous page
Bedini free energy generator
Bedini Ideas and motors
Experiments with a Kromrey and Brandt converter built by John Bedini
John Bedini energy machine pictures
The Tesla switch
The Hamel magnetic gate as built by John Bedini
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The Hamel Spinning Disc
The work of David Hamel is one of the most important things to Mankind
ever to be released. I could not find a ring Magnet that big, so I built a
"Magnetic Gate" to replace the Solid Magnet,only to discover other things.
This led Me to believe that a "Rotary Permanent Magnet Motor" could be
built very simply by everyone.
In this diagram of the Magnetic Gate I'm showing that a cylindrical
magnet is pulled into the gate and being forced out the other side. The
way I think about this is that there is a "Magnetic combustion" that takes
place in a field of zero. The Magnetic Field on the input side is spinning just
like a tornado. When the Magnet reaches the center the spins go the
other direction forcing the Magnet out. It was discovered that when two
like poles are pushed together the output beam is four times greater. Do
the simple experiment yourself, take two Magnets push the like poles
together and at that point the power of the magnet should be four times
greater and the normal poles should be two times weaker.
More to come on this motor
This drawing will allow you to reproduce what David Hamel said about "THE
BUTTERFLY EFFECT"
Copyright ©John Bedini 1997
This page copied from the John Bedini Hamel Page
John Bedini Home page
email John Bedini
Check some of these pages from our other webpages at this website
Hamel Searl disk electrification process
Hamel mini ufo flying disk construction detials
Photos of the Hamel from previous page
Bedini Ideas and motors
Experiments with a Kromrey and Brandt converter built by John Bedini
John Bedini motor diagrams and Lab notes
John Bedini energy machine pictures
The Tesla switch
The Hamel magnetic gate as built by John Bedini
electric shock from a shampoo bottle
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EXPERIMENTS WITH A KROMREY AND
A BRANDT-TESLA CONVERTER BUILT BY
JOHN BEDINI
FOREWORD
Following an invitation by John Bedini, I went with him to Los Angeles
immediately after the Colorado Springs Tesla Symposium on August 10
1984. We had two days together to work on the Kromrey Converter and
the Tesla Switching Device.
One thing came out very clearley: every time when we locked into the
"free energy" all commonly known physical laws are no longer valid. The
things happening react directly opposite to what one would expect.
Specifically the more we loaded a specific circuit, the more output energy
we gained, while using a constant input energy level. I will come back to
this effect later, when I describe the experiments in more details.
At this point I want to take the opportunity and thank John Bedini and his
wife for their hospitality and assistance.It takes persons like John Bedini to
get the "free energy" rolling. Without his publication [1] of the detailed
plans for his free energy device, we would definitely not have seen the
free energy devices demonstrated during the Tesla Symposium.
Also many thanks to Tom Bearden, who took his time and explained the
results of the test performed on August 13 1984. His comments are
contained in the concluding chapter of this report.
G-FIELD # 1
This was the model G-Field Bedini Electronics produced in the 80's.
G-FIELD BUILT BY RON COLE
PROTOTYPE G-FIELD BUILT BY COLE WITH WAVEFORMS ON SCOPE UNDER
LOAD
Copyright © 1996
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Mini Hamel Device
Construction and Drawings
Chris Felton
Please Note: There are small differences between the construction notes and in the
drawings presented here. The construction notes are correct and the drawings
should be viewed as a rough layout of the device.
Photos for this article
Cones:.01” Aluminum Flashing
12ea cone)
1” x .25” ceramic #5 disk magnets (no Hole in the center)
Cone and ring bands)1.25” wide x 1/16” thicksteel Tie Down Engineering banding cut
in half for cone rim and rings.
Cone Pivot Points) 1/8” steel rod. extend from tip to center.
Cone rims) 3/8” thick plywood
Cone frame 1/2” square dowel
1/8” aluminum bushing for cone pivot (bottom Cone)
3) 5/8” Diameter glass marbles for base
6) Bottom center of pill bottles for the base pinions ( plastic)
Bottom center base magnet) 1.75” x .25” ceramic #5 doughnut magnet w/ 7/8”center
hole
Top of top base plate magnets)3) 1” x .25” ceramic #5 disks
Top Cone Magnet) 1.75” x .25” ceramic #5 Doughnut with 7/8” center hole
Top activating magnet) same as top cone mag.
Cone center magnets)1 1/8” ceramic #5 doughnut mags with 3/8” center hole.
Glue) Household Goop
Shell) large coffee cans with top and bottom cut off.
Device frame) 1/2” square dowels set 120 degrees apart
Construction
Cones:
Built cone frames from 1/2” square dowel with brace that goes across at the center of the
cones.Glued with TiteBond Wood Glue.Cone frame is 53 degrees.Drilled hole in the
center of the center brace of the frame for placement of the 1/8” steel rod. Cut steel rod 2
1/8” long. Place into the hole in the frame half way and glue with 2 part fast drying
epoxy.Screw a 1/8” x 1/4” flat headed Phillips head Zinc machine bolt into other side of
the hole.This is to allow adjustment of the height of the cone above.
Cut Cone rim from 3/8” plywood 4” diameter 3/8” wide.Cut 3/4” diameter 3/8” plywood
53 degree angle piece for the tip of the cones.Drilled 1/8” hole in the center of this piece
for the 1/8” steel rod.This also gives support to the cone tip.
The cone frame now looks like a “Y”.Glue the Frame to the cone rim with wood glue at
the exact center line, and screwdown with #6x3/8” automotive trim screws.
Cut the steel banding material in half to approx. 1/2” about 12.6” long.Bend by hand to
form a circle 4” in diameter.Glue and Clamp to the cone rim.Let It Dry!
After it is 100% dry, time to attach the cone skin.Mark a semicircle with a 4” radius and
162 degrees.Cone only need 161 degrees; the excess is for overlap. Cut out of .01”
aluminum flashing and cut a 3/4”radius circle out of the center of the larger 4” rad. circle.
Glue the 3/4” diameter cone tip brace onto the 1/8” center steel rod.Must attach the skin
before the glue dries.Wrap the aluminum skin on the cone frame and attach with small
picture hanging nails.Glue the inside of the skin to the frame with Goop.Place Goop
around the outer skin at the cone rim to glue it to the rim.After the Goop has dried,
remove the nails in the skin.
Glue 12) 1” disk magnets to the steel band on the cone rim evenly spaced.Magnets must
be clamped to prevent movement of the magnets.All magnets have the same side facing
out.
Glue a 1 1/8” doughnut magnet to the center of the cone frame with the pivot screw in the
center with Goop.All Cone center Magnets North Poles up!Will explain Magnetic layout
later.Create 2 more cones the same way, except the top cone.The Top cone rim should be
solid 4” diameter.Glue, with goop, a 1.75” ceramic magnet in the center of the top of the
top cone with North facing UP!
After all cones are assembled, file the tips to a very sharp point of 30degrees exactly at
the cross section of the cone angle. Cone height will be 4” from point to rim.
Outer Cone Ring (Repelling):
Cut steel banding in half and 16.5” long. Hand bend into a circle 5.25” diameter.Overlap
and drill 1/8” hole in overlap.Place #6 machine screw in hole and cut off inside
excess.Now, glue 15) 1” disk magnets to banding with Goop.Repeat 2 more times.The 3
rings are complete.
Device Frame:
Cut three pieces of .5” square dowel 10 1/8” long.Cut three more pieces to connect at
120degrees apart and glue with wood glue.Glue the 10 1/8” pieces to the other 3 base
pieces.Frame diameter is 6”
Base:
Cut two equal lateral 3” triangles out of 1/8” wood paneling. Drill a 1/8” hole in the
centers. Get some plastic pill bottles with the bottom center curved like the bottom of a
soda can, and cut this part out with a hot knife.Drill 3/8”.Glue the plastic cups into these
recesses with Goop.Set on flat surface with the cup on the surface, and press firmly down
to align the cups.
Bottom of Base: Glue a 1/8” piece of steel rod in the center hole of the base piece.This
needs to extend through the base into the fame base where there is also a 1/8” hole
drilled.This makes sure the base is in the center.Glue the base to the frame with wood
glue. Now glue with Goop a 1.75” doughnut magnet to the center of the base with the
North pole up!
Top of Base: Take a 5/16” tall 3/8” diameter aluminum barrel with a 1/8” center hole.Cut
a 1/2” long piece of 1/8” steel rod and glue in the center of the top base with epoxy. Glue
the Aluminum barrel to the steel rod so that the rod extends half way into the barrel.The
barrel should be tight to the top of the top base and the rest of the steel rod extends
through the top base.Glue three 1” disk magnets to the top of the top base piece
positioned so they fit within the sides of the corners and do not go over the edge. They
should be around the center barrel, cups down.North poles up.Place three 5/8” glass
marbles in the bottom base cups, and place the top base over them.Poles are in attraction.
Base pivot is drilled with a 1/16” drill bit, then lightly drilled with a 1/8” bit.Drill the 1/8”
steel rod only.
Shell:
Take a large coffee canand remove the top and bottom so you have a cylinder.Take
another coffee can and cut off a 3” high piece with the top removed.Glue and tape
together with epoxy and electrical tape.Shell should now be 9.5” tall and 6”
diameter.Inside ridges need to be flattened at 120 degrees apart to allow the frame to slide
in snug.1/8” holes will be drilled later in the shell at the tops of each outer cone ring
spaced 1” apart. You will only have 2 rows of holes as the top and bottom are already
vented. More later on assembly.
Assembly:
Place bottom cone in the aluminum barrel in the base.Take the bottom outer cone ring
and slide down inside the Device frame.Align the ring so it balances the cone in the
magnetic field.Once it is balanced, mark the bottom of the ring with a marker on the
wood frame.Now slide the ring down till the marked line is about in the center, but not
quite.Have another person hold the cone to keep it from lifting out.Adjust the ring for
max lift(you can feel the force).Mark the top an bottom of the ring on the frame with a
marker.Remove the cone, and glue the ring with Goop to the device frame aligned with
the top and bottom marks.Let dry 100%!!
Each cone is different due to the differences in the magnet alignment.Now place the
bottom cone in the base barrel, have someone hold it down!Place the middle cone in the
center screw of the bottom cone.Slide the middle ring down and do the same alignment
procedures as above.Remove the cones, and Glue the ring.Do the same for the top cone
and ring.When you place all three cones in the device, you will notice a very, very strong
lifting of the cones.
Wrap the rings with #26 copper magnet wire.Two windings between each ring
magnet.Start at one of the side pieces of the device frame at the top.After winding the top
ring, move down to the middle ring and wrap in the reverse order of the top.Top, middle
and bottom windings are all one piece of wire connected.Wind the bottom ring in the
reverse order of the middle.
Take one of the ends of the coffee cans that was removed and cut a 2.5” hole in the
middle.Place this end upside down at the bottom of the device.The middle is now higher
than the edges.Slide the shell over the device frame and position so the bottom plate with
the hole is aligned with the shell.Tapeseam with electrical tape. Mark the shell at the area
1/2” above each outer cone ring. Lift the device frame out of the shell.Drill 1/8” holes at
the lines marked on the shell 1” apart.Two rows total.Take one of the other ends of the
coffee cans and drill a 1/4” hole in the center. Turn upside down, so the center is
higher.Glue with Goop a 1/4”zinc machine nut to the top at the hole.Screw a 1/4” x 3”
bolt into the nut on the plate only so the bolt extends through the plate enough to allow
you to place another 1/4”nut on the end.Place a 1.75” doughnut magnet on the bottom of
the plate in the center.Make sure to put wax paper under it.Fill center of the magnet with
epoxy, so it totally covers the nut on the end of the bolt.Let dry.Attach 1 more 1.75”
magnet to the lid magnet. North Pole should be down!
Place cones into the device and place the lid on.Have someone hold the cones while you
work.Screw the bolt with the magnets on down until you are able to create enough force
to hold the cones down.Pickup the device, holding the lid down secure, and place in to
the shell.There will be about 1/4” air gap around the top. Move the lid and adjust the
magnet height until the top cone is centered!Screw the lid down to the device frame posts
with #6 machine screws.The top copper wire should be connected to the outer shell and
the bottom copper wire should wrap around the 1/8” steel rod that extends from the top of
the top base piece to the middle of the base.This is the pivot point, and the wire is
connected in-between the 2 base pieces to the pivot.
If all is aligned right, you will feel a cool breeze going into the bottom of the device.The
outer shell will start to get warm near the outer cone rings, just beneath the air holes.You
will feel air coming from these holes as well as the air gap at the top.There is also a very
peculiar odor that comes out the top and holes of the device.After about 5 mins or so the
cones will appear to stop moving.If you look in the top air gap at the reflection on the top
cone magnet, you should see a shimmering of light.This looks like the shimmering of
light on a smooth pond.You can also feel a slight vibration on the shell as well as the
surface you place the device on.As the device sits, the breeze and the smell gets stronger.
Magnetic orientation:
Base magnets:north poles up (attraction)
Bottom and Top cone and outer ring magnets:South facing South (repelling)
Middle cone and ring magnets:North facing North. (repelling)
Center cone magnets: North poles up
Top cone top center and lid magnet:North facing North (repelling)
All magnets create a magnetic flow from the bottom up in attraction till it reaches the top
magnets then the flow is repelled down.All magnetic fields are contained within the
shell.Air is forced out of the holes.
After setting for about 20 min, the device was glowing a yellowish orange color, the TV
in the other room had distorted line all through it, and then boom!The color was brighter
at the openings before implosion.The room was showered intiny pieces of metal and
magnets.Some went through the ceiling.Big mess, and a lot of work gone.Next time I will
stay with the device while it is active.
This page and drawings copied from this Hameltech website
If you further interested in the hamel flying disk project check out their Full website for
photos and diagrams and tech information on building one.
Email Dan LaRochelle
Check some of these pages from our other webpages at this website
Hamel Searl disk electrification process
Photos of the Hamel from previous page
Bedini free energy generator
Bedini Ideas and motors
Experiments with a Kromrey and Brandt converter built by John Bedini
John Bedini motor diagrams and Lab notes
John Bedini energy machine pictures
The Tesla switch
The Hamel magnetic gate as built by John Bedini
Subscribe to energy2000
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