Clothes in 1914

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Oklahoma Centennial Celebration Committee – Clothes in 1914
Clothes That Were Used in 1914
Text adapted from Catherine Mezensky & Angela Robinson, eHow Contributors
In 1914, clothing transitioned from uptight Edwardian fashions, named for the
British king who died in 1910, towards more modern styles. Previously,
women wore heavily embellished dresses over tightly laced corsets. As
World War I broke out in Europe, these restrictions loosened. Men still
dressed in traditional suits while children wore more practical clothes. The
first bras sparked the beginnings of more modern styles.
A Year of Change
As World War I broke out in July of 1914, the British army needed fabric for the war
effort and people desired less frills. American women looked to Europe for fashion
inspiration, but once the war began, communication and travel became difficult. Americans
evolved their own styles and encouraged U.S. designers. Various structures, in fashion
and society, began to break down. Hemlines slowly rose, and theaters and restaurants
relaxed their dress requirements.
Women's Styles
In 1914 women gave up their straight long skirts for a less structured style called
the "peg top silhouette." They wore full top skirts or tunics over a straight
underskirt; the hemline was at the instep and the waistline was less defined.
Designers cut slits into the narrow underskirt so the women could walk; the public
called them "hobble skirts."
History

Hobble skirts became popular in the early 1900s as a Western fashion trend
that introduced narrow hems to the already fashionable long skirts. The idea of
the style originated when Katherine Wright, sister of the Wright Brothers, joined
them on one of their flights. She tied a rope around the bottom of her skirt in
effort to keep it from flying up while airborne.
Significance

The skirts were significant to fashion because it forced women who wore them to
be more deliberate while walking since the narrow hem did not allow much room
for leg movement. Reminiscent of geishas of Japan, western women embraced
the hobble skirt as a fashion statement of sexiness and femininity.
Function

The original hobble skirt acted as a type of corset, since it accented the curves
of the lower body. Not only did they appear stylish, the narrow hem line helped
to prevent a woman's skirt from flying up in the wind and accidentally exposing
her undergarments.
Problems

The original hobble skirt did not last long. The tight-fitting skirts made climbing in
and out of buggies (and later, cars) nearly impossible. In the 1920s, women
were fighting for their freedom in both the political and the fashion worlds. The
hobble skirt was soon deemed too restrictive and was traded for the short, loose
flapper dresses. The hobble skirt was revived in the 1950’s as a “pencil skirt”
which is popular again in 2014 fashion!!
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Men's Suits
Men's fashions did not change much in 1914. American men continued to wear the
sack suit, a traditional three-piece outfit with pants, vest and coat made of the same
material. In 1914 these suits had patch pockets.

The pants were wider at the hips and narrower at the ankles than styles from
previous eras. Formal clothes were snug but well-tailored. At fancy gatherings, men
wore black cutaway coats, white ties, and patent leather shoes. Collars were
straight or with small wings.
Children's Clothes
Kids' clothing in 1914 was simple and more sensible, with less lace and velvet.
 Children's clothes became more child-like, instead of a scaled down version of
adult fashions. Girls wore shorter skirts, and dress yokes often extended down to
the thighs. Boys wore suits with knee length shorts.
Underwear
Most underwear was still old-fashioned in 1914. Men, boys and girls still wore union suits.
This one-piece snugly-fitted garment was often made of flannel.

Children's union suits in 1914 had shorter sleeves and leggings.

In 1914, American Mary Jacobs patented the first bra! Women previously wore
restrictive corsets to provide shape and support in rigid fashions. Now designers
considered the bra when developing the new, looser styles that would continue in
later decades.
References




Fashion-Era; 1914-1920: Toward Dress Reform Fashion History; Pauline Weston
Old Magazine Articles: First Aid at the Tailor's; 1914
Historic Costume; Katherine Lester and Rose Kerr; 1967
Fashion Era: WWI Fashion History
Resources


"San Francisco Chronicle"; Bras: A Century of Suspension; Sylvia Rubin; October 28, 2007
WebChron: The WebChronology Project: The United States Enters World War One
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Fashionably hobbled skirts, which narrowed at
the hem, were inspired by the costumes of Asia,
from 1912 to 1914. From The Fashion Book
Illustrating Pictorial Review Patterns, winter
1914, [Vancouver Museum, Vancouver BC, Sep
13-Mar 23]
Children’s pattern from Needlecraft, 1914
Baby’s summer layette, 1914
Two girl’s dresses, 1914
Buster Brown Child’s Suit,
Needlecraft-September 1914
Fashion catalog, children’s clothing: 1914
More ladies dressy dresses, 1914 (and corset)
1914 Dresses
MODE Illustrated, Skirt & Suit—April 12, 1914
A 1914 pattern: Hobble skirt under a jacket
1914 “Afternoon Dress”
1914-Ladies Housedress & Apron
Ladies Wear patterns, 1914
Notes and graphics
gathered by Recia Garcia,
OCES Centennial Celebration Co-Chair
January, 2014
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