Oklahoma Centennial Celebration Committee – Clothes in 1914 Clothes That Were Used in 1914 Text adapted from Catherine Mezensky & Angela Robinson, eHow Contributors In 1914, clothing transitioned from uptight Edwardian fashions, named for the British king who died in 1910, towards more modern styles. Previously, women wore heavily embellished dresses over tightly laced corsets. As World War I broke out in Europe, these restrictions loosened. Men still dressed in traditional suits while children wore more practical clothes. The first bras sparked the beginnings of more modern styles. A Year of Change As World War I broke out in July of 1914, the British army needed fabric for the war effort and people desired less frills. American women looked to Europe for fashion inspiration, but once the war began, communication and travel became difficult. Americans evolved their own styles and encouraged U.S. designers. Various structures, in fashion and society, began to break down. Hemlines slowly rose, and theaters and restaurants relaxed their dress requirements. Women's Styles In 1914 women gave up their straight long skirts for a less structured style called the "peg top silhouette." They wore full top skirts or tunics over a straight underskirt; the hemline was at the instep and the waistline was less defined. Designers cut slits into the narrow underskirt so the women could walk; the public called them "hobble skirts." History Hobble skirts became popular in the early 1900s as a Western fashion trend that introduced narrow hems to the already fashionable long skirts. The idea of the style originated when Katherine Wright, sister of the Wright Brothers, joined them on one of their flights. She tied a rope around the bottom of her skirt in effort to keep it from flying up while airborne. Significance The skirts were significant to fashion because it forced women who wore them to be more deliberate while walking since the narrow hem did not allow much room for leg movement. Reminiscent of geishas of Japan, western women embraced the hobble skirt as a fashion statement of sexiness and femininity. Function The original hobble skirt acted as a type of corset, since it accented the curves of the lower body. Not only did they appear stylish, the narrow hem line helped to prevent a woman's skirt from flying up in the wind and accidentally exposing her undergarments. Problems The original hobble skirt did not last long. The tight-fitting skirts made climbing in and out of buggies (and later, cars) nearly impossible. In the 1920s, women were fighting for their freedom in both the political and the fashion worlds. The hobble skirt was soon deemed too restrictive and was traded for the short, loose flapper dresses. The hobble skirt was revived in the 1950’s as a “pencil skirt” which is popular again in 2014 fashion!! Read more: http://www.ehow.com/about_5101233_hobble-skirt.html#ixzz2qRbFb6WM Read more: http://www.ehow.com/about_5101233_hobble-skirt.html#ixzz2qRa6gNNJ Men's Suits Men's fashions did not change much in 1914. American men continued to wear the sack suit, a traditional three-piece outfit with pants, vest and coat made of the same material. In 1914 these suits had patch pockets. The pants were wider at the hips and narrower at the ankles than styles from previous eras. Formal clothes were snug but well-tailored. At fancy gatherings, men wore black cutaway coats, white ties, and patent leather shoes. Collars were straight or with small wings. Children's Clothes Kids' clothing in 1914 was simple and more sensible, with less lace and velvet. Children's clothes became more child-like, instead of a scaled down version of adult fashions. Girls wore shorter skirts, and dress yokes often extended down to the thighs. Boys wore suits with knee length shorts. Underwear Most underwear was still old-fashioned in 1914. Men, boys and girls still wore union suits. This one-piece snugly-fitted garment was often made of flannel. Children's union suits in 1914 had shorter sleeves and leggings. In 1914, American Mary Jacobs patented the first bra! Women previously wore restrictive corsets to provide shape and support in rigid fashions. Now designers considered the bra when developing the new, looser styles that would continue in later decades. References Fashion-Era; 1914-1920: Toward Dress Reform Fashion History; Pauline Weston Old Magazine Articles: First Aid at the Tailor's; 1914 Historic Costume; Katherine Lester and Rose Kerr; 1967 Fashion Era: WWI Fashion History Resources "San Francisco Chronicle"; Bras: A Century of Suspension; Sylvia Rubin; October 28, 2007 WebChron: The WebChronology Project: The United States Enters World War One Read more: http://www.ehow.com/info_8214607_clothes-were-used-1914.html#ixzz2qRheUdGF Read more: http://www.ehow.com/info_8214607_clothes-were-used-1914.html#ixzz2qRZYtUBd Read more: http://www.ehow.com/info_8214607_clothes-were-used-1914.html#ixzz2qRZOCMve Read more: http://www.ehow.com/info_8214607_clothes-were-used-1914.html#ixzz2qRZ7YQlQ Read more: http://www.ehow.com/info_8214607_clothes-were-used-1914.html#ixzz2qRYyJMIv Fashionably hobbled skirts, which narrowed at the hem, were inspired by the costumes of Asia, from 1912 to 1914. From The Fashion Book Illustrating Pictorial Review Patterns, winter 1914, [Vancouver Museum, Vancouver BC, Sep 13-Mar 23] Children’s pattern from Needlecraft, 1914 Baby’s summer layette, 1914 Two girl’s dresses, 1914 Buster Brown Child’s Suit, Needlecraft-September 1914 Fashion catalog, children’s clothing: 1914 More ladies dressy dresses, 1914 (and corset) 1914 Dresses MODE Illustrated, Skirt & Suit—April 12, 1914 A 1914 pattern: Hobble skirt under a jacket 1914 “Afternoon Dress” 1914-Ladies Housedress & Apron Ladies Wear patterns, 1914 Notes and graphics gathered by Recia Garcia, OCES Centennial Celebration Co-Chair January, 2014