Fashion 1910’s –
1919’s
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Rich & exotic opulence in first half of
decade - Orientalism
Practicality of garments during WWI – 1914
– 1918
Changes made because of necessity over
fashion
Periods of upheaval are often a catalyst for
profound social change, which in turn is a
catalyst for dramatic change in fashion.
Influences
Women’s suffrage movement
 Roots of Prohibition
 Great Influenza Epidemic (1918)
 Titantic sank in 1912
 Frank Lloyd Wright – Arts & Crafts
movement
 Silent Films – Charlie Chaplin & Mary
Pickford
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Designers
Jacques Doucet
 Mariano Fortuny
 Coco Chanel
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Silhouette
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Rectangular
- Tunic over a long underskirt
- Empire waist early – loosened and
gradually dropped to natural waist
- Tunics gradually became longer and
underskirts were made fuller and shorter
- 1916 – calf-length dresses over ankle
length underskirt
Hobble Skirt
Mimicked the Harem skirts of middle
east
 1914
 Widest at hips – narrow at ankle
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The Great War
WWI
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1914 – 1918
Women went to work – factories
Independence increased – levels of activity
and desire for practical shoes
Clothing more utilitarian – tailored, mannish
appearance
Hemlines inched up – dropped underskirts –
above ankles – material shortages
Darker Colors – Mourning – Monochrome
look
Hats/Hair Styles
Large hats with wide brims early
 Small hats with flat brims – end
 Bobbed haircut
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Men
Unchanged Styles
 Sack Suit
 Pants with cuff/with front/back creases
 Tuxedo jacket
 Ties same
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Children
Boys – suits with trousers
 Girls – less “adult”
- shorter skirts
- Material Rationing
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