OLEON
A NATURAL CHEMISTRY
J&J – BSI SEMINAR
Personal Care
14th May 2012
A fruitfull collaboration
On 10 specialty products;
Radia 7750; Isoamy Laurate
Radia 2253; Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
Radia 7758; Sorbitan Isostearate
Radia 7447; PEG-8 Diisostearate
Radia 7687; Neopentylglycol Diisostearate
Radia 7181; Pentaertythrityl Tetraisostearate
Radia 7373; Triisostearin
Radia 7380; Trimethylol Propane Triisostearate
Radia 2248 ; Polyglyceryl-3 stearate
Radia 7887; Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate
WHO IS OLEON?
Core business of Oleon
Oleon is a leading company in Europe for the production of
chemicals based on Natural Oils.
Oleon is a subsidiary of the Sofiproteol group, Europe’s reference for
vegetable oil with activities in food, feed, biofuels and oleochemistry.
Oil cake
Biotechnologies
Seeds
Pesticides
Other services
for agriculture
Growers
Collect of oilseeds
and protein rich
seeds
Animal health
and breeding
Animal nutrition
Crushing
Food
Oils
Renewable
energies
Growers and breeders
Oilseeds division
Food and animal sector division
Other Agricultural industries with Sofiprotéol concern
Renewable
chemicals
Breeders
Transformation
and animal
productions
International character of Oleon
Oleon Sales Offices
Oleon Northern Europe
6 Plants (Ertvelde, Oelegem,
Compiègne, Sandefjord,
Emmerich, Port Klang)
Oleon UK
Oleon Americas
Oleon HQ
Oleon GmbH
Oleon France
Oleon China
Oleon Southern Europe
Oleon Asia Pacific
5
Values of Oleon
Innovation driven
Investments in
innovation centre
Technical
involvement
Environmental
concern
RSPO member
Iso14001 certification
Quality focus
COSMOS/Ecocert
Application research &
Product improvement
in R&D lab
Kosher/Halal
Oleon is an RSPO member
RSPO
Promoting the Growth And
Use of Sustainable Palm Oil
Oleon is member since 2007
Oleon respects RSPO
principle & criteria
Among its principles
…Respect for rights of land owners,
farmworkers, smallholders and
their families.
…No primary forests or high
conservation value areas sacrificed
for new palm oil plantations
Our Chemistry.
From nature to oleochemistry
Containing
Rapeseed, Sunflower, Palm, Coconut,
Soya, PKO, Linseed, Castor…
From oleochemistry to consumer product
Esterification
Fatty acid
Hydrolyses Alcohol
building
block
Glycerol
Ester
Fatty acid
A glance into the Radia building blocks
Alcohol-function
- OH
INCI
Polyglyceryl-3 stearate
Polyglycerol
Polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate
Sorbitan + polyethyleneglycol
Sorbitan
Fatty acid – function
-COOH
Isoamyl
Isopropyl
Pentaerythrityl
+
C8/C10
Lauric acid
Myristic acid
Palmitic acid
Stearic acid
Oleic acid
Isostearic acid
=
Polysorbate 20
Polysorbate 60
Polysorbate 80
Sorbitan Laurate
Sorbitan Laurate
Sorbitan Oleate
Sorbitan trioleate
Sorbitan isostearate
Isoamyl laurate
Isopropyl myristate
Isopropyl palmitate
Isopropyl isostearate
Pentaerythrithyl tetra
caprylate/tetracaprate
Pentaerythrithyl stearate
Pentaerythrithyl tetrastearate
Pentaerythrithyl tetraisostearate
Propylene glycol
Propylene glycol dicaprylate/caprate
Propylene glycol stearate
caprylic/capric triglyceride
Glyceryl laurate (90%)
Glycerol
Glyceryl stearate
Glyceryl oleate
…
WHAT CAN WE OFFER
Emulsifiers
Characteristics
Radia portfolio
Eye catchers
Emollients
Stabilizers & Pearlescent body agents
In the picture
Radia 7887
Radia 7750
Isostearic derivates
Characteristics: HLB-scale of William C. Griffin
•
•
•
•
Hydrophylic part
Stands for:
Established for:
Formula:
Purpose:
Hydrophilic/lipophilic Balance
Non-ionic emulsifiers
HLB = 20* [MW hydrophilic part/MW total molecule]
Scale to performance of the emulsifier
High HLB = hydophylic type
Low HLB = lipophylic type
High HLB
Hydrophylic part
Low HLB
FA function
FA function
Lipophylic part
Lipophylic part
High HLB
Water soluble
Oil in Water emulsion
Low HLB
Oil (Fat) soluble
Water in oil emulsion
Characteristics: HLB versus performance
HLB
1
2
3
Characteristics
O/W emulsifier
Mixing unlike oils together
Radiasurf 7755
4
Making W/O emulsions
5
Radiasurf 7443
Radiasurf 7402
Radiasurf 7125
7
9
• Making self-emulsifying oils
Radiamuls 2248
Radiasurf 7447
Radiasurf 7444
Radiasurf 7454
• Wetting Powders
10
Making O/W emulsions using
surfactant blends
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
Radiamuls 2253
Radia 7887
Radiasurf 7758
Radiamuls 2155
Radiasurf 7145
Radiasurf 7141
6
8
Radia
• Making detergent solutions
(HLB 13-15)
• Solubilizing oils (micro-emulsifying)
into water (10-18)
Radiasurf 7473
Radiasurf 7403
Radiasurf 7423
Radiasurf 7404
Radiamuls 2157
Radiasurf 7147
Radiasurf 7137
WHAT CAN WE OFFER
Emulsifiers
Emollients
Characteristics
Radia portfolio
Eye catchers
Stabilizers & Pearlescent body agents
In the picture
Radia 7887
Radia 7750
Isostearic derivates
Characteristics: An emollient and its sensorial aspect
… softens and smoothes the skin
… results in elastic and lubricated skin
An emollient can be characterised by sensorial terminology:
Spreading
Absorption
Greasiness
Stickiness
Softness
Smoothness
Characteristics: An emollient and its chemistry
An emollient can be characterised by physico chemical terminology
Low viscosity
 Viscosity = light feel & good spread
Branched structure
 Liquid means easy to handle
= Cold processing
 Light feel
Saturated structure
 Chemical stability
 No off odour, no off colour
Low molecular weight
 light & dry feel
 quick absorption
High polarity (Harkin)
 Good spread
Low contact angle
 Wetting capacity
WHAT CAN WE OFFER
Emulsifiers
Emollients
Stabilizers &
Pearlescent body agents
In the picture
Radia 7887
Radia 7750
Isostearic derivates
Radia 7887: W/O emulsion
How commercial is a W/O-emulsion?
Applications:
Sun Screen milks
Skin protective baby creams
Massage milks
Lotions and creams
For dry and sensitive skin
Hand & feet care
Night creams
Properties:
Skin protection
Long lasting moisturization
Resemblance to the natural skin protective barrier
Improved spreading and penetration of active ingredients
Reduced preservative concentration
Radia 7887: cold process
How do you benefit of a cold process method?
COLD PROCESSING
equals cost reduction by means of
T
1
2
3
(°C)
Hot Process
+/- 80
…time
4
5
Homogenize
No heating time
20
No cooling time
Time
…energy
No need for melting
T
(°C)
1
…amount
No additional co-emulsifier
Low concentration
Cold Process
2
3
5
4
20
Homogenize
Time
Radia 7887: its building blocks
POLYGLYCEROL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE & SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE
Glycerol
Ricinoleate
Sorbitol
Saponification of
a vegetable oil
Extraction &
destillation
Hydrogenation &
filtration
Rapeseed oil
Ricinus communis
(Euphorbiaceae)
Wheat/Maize
Isostearate
Saponification,
neutralization &
destillation
Rapeseed oil
The identity of Radia 7887
Radia 7887
INCI:
POLYGLYCEROL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE
SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE
HLB:
Performance:
4,2
Single emulsifier
Liquid W/O emulsifier
Sensorial:
provides emulsions with a glossy appearance
Speciality:
EO free - Palm free - PEG free
fit for high and low internal phase
based on natural raw materials
no need for co-emulsifier
functions at low levels (<1%)
COLD Process
Radia 7887: viscosity
How to reach consistency with only liquid ingredients?
• Increase of water phase %
• Using emollients with higher viscosity
• Homogenization (sharing force)
Results in a
rich, consistent
and stable
cream
Radia 7887: stability
Stability testing parameters?
Test formulation W/O
Evaluation methods
Oil phase
Oil
30%
Emulsifier
1) Centrifuge stability
(3x15min @ 4000rpm)
10 %, 18% or
1% or 4%
Water phase
Glycerol
MgSO4.7H2O
Preservative
Water
Low external phase = 10%
High external phase = 30%
Low surfactant = 1%
High surfactant = 3.5%
4%
0,7%
q.s.
to 100%
2) Temperature stability
8 weeks @ 50°C
3 months@ 40°C
>4 months@ RT
Freeze-thaw 5 cycles at -15°C/RT
3) Viscosity stability ( mPas)
Brookfield 10rpm, 1 minute, LVT spindle
After 1 day
After 3 months
4) Appearance
Visual aspect
Radia 7887: stability
What about stability performance?
• A low emulsifier (1%) emulsion showed to be stable with
…MCT
…paraffin oils up to 18%
• A high emulsifier (4%) emulsion showed to be stable with
…MCT
…sunflower oil
…paraffin oils
• A remarkable synergy and high viscosity is observed using
sunflower oil which benefits your green formulation.
• R7887 emulsions show stability with internal phases up to 82%!
Radia 7887: formulations
Low Cost W/O protective cream
HP11-22-2
•Phase
•Ingredient
•INCI
•A
•Radia 7887
•Polyglycerol-3 Polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate
•3.6
•Radia 7373
•Triisostearin
•0.5
•Radia 7363
•Triolein (= Sunflower oil)
•18
•Glycerin 4810
•Glycerin
•water
•Aqua
•B
•C
•% w/w
•4
•To 100
•Mg.SO4.7H2O
•0.8
•preservative
•0.7
Viscosity : 121000 mPa.s (Brookfield RV, spindle 7, rpm 10, 1 min.)
Assessment: Rich protective cream, high viscosity, film forming , good spreading
Radia 7887: formulations
W/O soft body cream/Lotion
HP03-54-3
•Phase
•Ingredient
•INCI
•A
•Radia 7887
•Polyglycerol-3 Polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate
•4
•Radia 7208
•Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
•2
•Radia 7732
•Isopropyl Palmitate
•B
•C
•% w/w
•11
•Sweet almond oil
•2
•Avocado oil
•2
•Glycerin 4810
•Glycerin
•water
•Aqua
•3
•To 100
•Mg.SO4.7H2O
•0.5
•preservative
•0.7
•Viscosity ,35000 mPa.s (Brookfield RV, spindle 6, rpm 10, 1 min.)
•Assessment: Rich day lotion, nice, soft skinfeel, smooth afterfeel , good spreading
Radia 7887: formulations
Low Cost Protective baby cream
•Phase
•Ingredient
•INCI
•A
•Radia 7887
•Polyglycerol-3 Polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate
HP11-12-1
•Olive Oil
•B
•C
•% w/w
•3,6
•15
•Radia 7373
•Triisostearin
•0,5
•Radia 7500
•Cetyl Palmitate
•2
•Glycerin 4810
•Glycerin
•3
•water
•Aqua
•To 100
•Mg.SO4.7H2O
•0.5
•preservative
•0.7
•ZnO
•10
•Viscosity ,35000 mPa.s (Brookfield RV, spindle 6, rpm 10, 1 min.)
•Assessment: Rich day lotion, nice, soft skinfeel, smooth afterfeel , good spreading
Radia 7887: the movie
WHAT CAN WE OFFER
Emulsifiers
Emollients
Stabilizers &
Pearlescent body agents
In the picture
Radia 7887
Radia 7750
Isostearic derivates
The identity of Radia 7750
Radia 7750
INCI:
ISOAMYL LAURATE
Performance:
High wetting power
Solvating functionality (short chain ester)
Sensorial:
Silky feeling
Degreasing power
Excellent spreadability & quick penetration
Anti-tack agent
Speciality:
Natural building blocks
Practical Usage
Applications:
Body oils & bath oils
Wet wipes
Natural hair care products
O/W & W/O creams
Radia 7750: a green chemical
Radia 7750: wetting properties
Radia 7750: practical use
Usage level
 Often used as primary oil : 480%.
 Higher usage levels 30-80% in
all kind of body oils & bath oils.
 O/W and W/O emulsion
creams: 5-20%.
 Wet wipes O/W: 0.5-2 %
 Natural hair care: 1-5%
WHAT CAN WE OFFER
Emulsifiers
Emollients
Stabilizers
Pearlescent body agents
In the picture
Radia 7887
Radia 7750
Isostearic derivates
Isostearic derivates: Characteristics
Isostearic derivates are saturated:
Chemical stability
No need for antioxidant
Isostearic acid is a natural based building block from rapeseed oil.
Isostearic derivates are branched:
Excellent emolliency
Non-greasy afterfeel
Highly substantive lipid film
Soft skinfeel
Glossy appearance
Isostearic derivates: Characteristics
Isostearic derivates have a low melting point (vs straight-chain analogues):
No crystallization
Isostearic derivatives can replace oleic derivatives
Isostearic derivates are liquid:
Cold emulsion method
Practicial use
A solution for heat sensitive products
A solution for challenging formulations
Isostearic derivates: Portfolio
INCI
Radia
Isostearyl alcohol
Radianol 1980
Isostearic Acid
Radiacid 908/909
Neopentylglycol Diisostearate
Radia 7687
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Radia 7181
Triisostearin
Radia 7373
Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate
Radia 7380
Isopropyl Isostearate
Radia 7739
Eye catcher: the identity of Radia 7373
Radia 7373
INCI:
TRIISOSTEARIN
Performance:
Dispersant & adhesion promotor of pigments
Solvating functionality
Modifies melting points
Sensorial:
Long lasting spreadability (no migration) when
combined with ligh emollient
Speciality:
‘Natural oil – like’ with enhanced emulsification
properties
Applications:
Lipsticks (long lasting)
Colour cosmetics
Eye catcher: the identity of Radia 7739
Radia 7739
INCI:
ISOPROPYL ISOSTEARATE
•Performance: Light texture emollient
Functions as overall reducer of tackiness
Affective solvent and disperser
•Sensorial:
High gloss & low occlusive
Fast absorption & good spreadability
Imperceptible afterfeel on the skin(Better than IPM)
Speciality:
low amount of residue required
Applications:
Unique ingredient for many cosmetic preparations
Face and eyes make up
Eye catcher: the identity of Radia 7380
Radia 7380
INCI:
TRIMETHYLOLPROPANE TRIISOSTEARATE
Performance:
Substantive and roch, film forming emollient
Dispersant for solid ingredients
Potential SPF booster
Sensorial:
Good Lubricant
Rich Film forming emollient
Shine & plasticizer properties in hair care
Non-tacky feel
Improves skin elasticity
Speciality:
Mineral oil replacement
Applications:
general skin & hair care
depilatory creams,
colour cosmetics,
sun and baby care,
shaving formulations
Eye catcher: the identity of Radia 7687
Radia 7687
INCI:
NEOPENTYL GLYCOL DIISOSTEARATE
Performance:
Silky and good spreading emollient
Viscosity increasing agent
Sensorial:
Skin conditioning agent
Silky and rich skin feel
Applications:
Sun care
Protective creams
Shaving creams
Moisturizing creams and lotions
Baby care
Make-up
Eye catcher: the identity of Radia 7181
Radia 7181
INCI:
PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAISOSTEARATE
Performance:
Dispersant activities
Sensorial:
High gloss film
Resists to rub off
Good lubrication & reduces drag on application
Substantive and cushion feel.
Speciality:
Good alternative to castor oil.
Applications:
Sun care
Liquid foundations
Lipsticks
High solid make up
Contributes as waterrepellent agent
Pearlescent – bodying agent
Oleon Head Office
Assenedestraat 2
9940 Ertvelde - Belgium
T: +32 (0)9 341 10 11
F: +32 (0)9 341 10 00
E: info@oleon.com