Neo-classicism to
Industrial
Revolution
1793 “Terror”
Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette
Executed, Directoire established
1790-1820 NeoClassicism/Directoire
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Departures from typical fashion evolution…
 Women-waistlines rise, slender silhouette
 Men-waistline rises, wide lapels (Incroyable, frock)
Changing male ideals-plain, dark, unadorned, suits
Tailoring important
 1818, tape measure/Brooks Bros.
Beau Brummel, male fashion icon, minimalist style
 sideburns-first fashionable facial hair in over century
1840-1860 Industrial Revolution
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Men
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Cutaway becomes tailcoat, only evening
Sack coat (closest to modern)
Decorative waistcoat disappearing
Stripes, checks, patterns; some dandies
accessorize
Power weaving, cylinder printing-cheaper
fabrics
By 1860, fashion journalism global…
1815-1848 Romantic (1790-1840 women)
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Neoclassical-beginning of consistent historic
revival (Pompeii, classical Greek)
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1820s, back to natural waist, volume increases, X
silhouette, horizontal emphasis
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“Stays” reduced temporarily, patterned cottons day,
dark/heavy evening
Corsets, cutting, shaping, applied decoration
1830s wide off-shoulder, printed fabrics, bum
rolls, petticoats
1840-1860 Industrial Revol women
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Sleeve volume reduced, Vertical emphasisV waist, bell/pagoda sleeve
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Voluminous skirt “crinoline,” horsehair
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More exotics imitated, Kashmir shawls
Technology-cage crinoline, fabric over steel
REFORM dress; health, rights (Bloomer)
Ready-Made Clothing (still 1840-1860)
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Slops/soldiers (since 1660s)-1st RTW
Industrialization/banking
 office clerks, not bespoke, consistent business dress
(telegraph, typewriter)
1839 Daguerre, photography, truthful visual
1840s London-Savile Row tailoring (Poole, military
tailor)
1846 Howe, sewing machine (5+yrs Singer)
1850s, wood pulp paper, printing
1856, first synthetic dye (1860s common)
1857 Charles Frederick WORTH, Empress Eugenie,
birth of haute couture
Victorian/Edwardian 1860-1910
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1837-1901 Queen Victoria/1901-1911 Edward
Visual info, mass production, dept stores, mail
order…
MEN, standard sizing (Civil War data), menswear
suited to mass production
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Detachable collar/cuffs, necktie, straight silhouette
3 pc. sack suit, “tuxedo park” tuxedo/evening
Hats-bowler/derby, fedora, boater; fewer beards
Sports important-Norfolk jacket; bathing costume
Late Victorian 1860-1900
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Women-rapid change, difficult to mass produce
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Sewing girls
Home sewing machine-masses of décor
Imports-plaids/tartans, paisley, Zouave jkts
Corset-hourglass; drawers to ankles/chemise
Day-modest, evening-low neck/short slv,
extended/wide shoulder-line, wide elliptical
hoops/cages
Fair complexion-parasols, gloves, fans
contd.
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Worth-merchandising/showroom/dictated
1868 Chambre Syndicale de la Couture
Parisienne-regulated/business
1870 BUSTLE, longer corset/bodice (not
round hoop, back emphasis)
Princess line (Princess Metternich, Worth
client)-vert seams, no waistline
1880s-developments
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Emmigration-garment manufacturing…
Sweating-long hrs, poor conditions
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1900 ILGWU (triangle shirtwaist factory-labor
laws/unions)
Dept. stores (Bon marche)-leisure activity
Patterns printed in Harper’s
Movements
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Aesthetic dress
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Rational dress, health movement (loose)
Gay Nineties-la Belle Epoque
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vege dyes, Oscar Wilde, Liberty London
Lessening morality from Victorian
1899 Veblen “Theory of Leisure Class”
Women in wkforce
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Telephone, typewriter, nursing
2pc. Suit, shirtwaist blouse
1880s-1890s women’s fashion
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1885 shelf-like projection of skirts
Dolman cape, Ulster coat (half-belt)
BLACK hide dirt, adapt for mourning
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Victoria 1861-1901
Actresses-fashion leaders (photography)
1895 leg-o-mutton sleeve, trumpet skirt
Art Nouveau/Edwardian 1900-1910
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Cycling-trousers for women
Art Nouveau-curvilinear
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Monobosom, hip thrust, bishop/leg-o-mutton,
softer/light
Gibson Girl
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Pompadours, wide hats, plumage (Audubon society)
Paul Poiret-freed women
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S-curve silhouette 1900-1908
Paris exhibition (couturiers)
1st modern couturier, 1909 empire waist
Automobiles-duster/motorcoat (and shorter styles)
1910 Corsets
http://laracorsets.com/History_of_the_corset_11_1910-1920.htm