Teacher Notes
Course: Basic Maintenance and Light Repair
Unit: 3 – Tools and Equipment
Standards
TDL-BMLR-3
Identify and utilize proper tools and equipment
3.1
Identify tools and their usage in automotive applications.
3.2
Identify standard and metric designations.
3.3
Demonstrate safe handling and use of appropriate tools.
3.4
Demonstrate proper cleaning, storage, and maintenance of tools and equipment.
3.5
Demonstrate proper use of precision measuring tools (e.g. micrometer, dialindicator, and dial-caliper)
GPS
ELACC9-10SL1; ELACC9-10SL4
Essential Questions (EQs)
3.1 How do we properly identify the tool and supplies used within the shop area?
3.2 How do we safely handle each tool?
3.3 How do we store the tools safely and neatly?
3.4 How do we use each of the tools needed in the shop?
Sequence of Events
These sequences of events are subject to change depending on how many students you
have in your given class.
Day 1

Begin presentation Unit_3_Tools_and_Equipment_Presentation_BMLR.pptx
Day 2

Day 3
Continue with presentation

Explain Activity_3.1a_Bingo!_BMLR.docx

Spend the day playing Bingo
Day 4-5

Hand out Activity_3.1b_Tools_Supply_List.docx

Have the students complete this activity
Activities
3.1a Bingo!
The students will work independently and play several games of Bingo. In this
activity the student will be give one or two Bingo cards. The teacher will call out
definitions, questions or hold up the tool or piece of equipment. The students will
then match that with the correct tool or piece of equipment name. The first
student to get five in a row (diagonally, horizontally, or vertically) wins that Bingo
game. The teacher will choose how many games they wish to play with the class.
If the teacher wants more of a challenge, they may switch up the way in which
the students can win Bingo. Check out this additional ways
http://www.nationwidebingo.com/patterns.cfm.
3.1b Tools Budget
After the teacher feels as if the students have a firm grasp on the different
tools used in the shop, they will split off into their simulation groups. Within
these groups, they will think about their industry and what they want to do within
their industry. They will compile a list of all the tools and equipment they will
need within their industry. After they have compiled a list, they must make a
tools budget. This budget will include the tool name, the quantity, the price, the
total price for that tool (price X quantity) and an overall tools budget. Along with
the budget sheet, the students must turn in a one page summary as to how each
of these tools will benefit their industry and how they plan to use them.
Research
1. Basic Tool Rules
a. Purchase quality tools
i. You get what you pay for
ii. Quality tools are lighter, stronger, easier to use, and more
dependable
iii. Most quality tools have guarantees, some of them have lifetime
guarantees (meaning if it messes up the manufacturer will replace it
free of charge)
b. Keep tools organized
i. Technicians have hundreds of tools
ii. Tools should be neatly arranged for quick access.
iii. There should be a place for every tool, and every tool should be in its
place
iv. If tools are just thrown into a tool box then you have to dig and
search for those tools. This can cost valuable time as well as be
damaging to the tools
c. Keep tools clean
i. Wipe tools clean and dry after every use
ii. If a tool is greasy or oily it can be dangerous
d. Use the right tool for the right job
i. A good technician knows when, where and why a particular tool will
work better than another tool for a certain job.
2. Tool Storage
a. Toolboxes are used to protect a technician’s tools
b. A typical toolbox has three parts
i. Large, lower roll around cabinet
ii. Upper tool chest that sits on the roll-around cabinet
iii. A small carrying tray
3. Tools
a. Wrench
i. Wrench rules
1. Always select the right size wrench. It must fit the bolt head
snuggly. A loose fitting wrench with round off the bolt head
2. Never hammer on a standard wrench to break loose a bold or
large nut
a. This is what slug wrenches are for
3. When possible, pull on the wrench. This is so if the wrench
slips, you are less likely to hurt your hand. When you must push
on a wrench, use the palm of your hand and keep your fingers
open.
4. Never use a steel bar or pipe to increase the length of a
wrench for leverage. This can not only be dangerous for you,
but it can also cause bending or breaking of the wrench.
ii. Open-end wrenches
1. Has an open, or split, jaw on both ends with each end a
different size and set at different angles.
2. The angle allows for the wrench to turn bolts and nuts with
little swing space
3. They have weak jaws and should not be used on extremely
tight nuts or bolts
a. The jaws will flex outward and round off the bold head.
iii. Box-end wrenches
1. Completely closed on both ends as to completely surround and
grip the head of a bolt or nut
2. Less likely to round off a bolt head like an open-end wrench
3. Can be either 6- or 12-point openings.
a. 6-point opening is the strongest and should be used on
extremely tight, rusted, or partially rounded bolt or nut
heads.
iv. Combination wrenches
1. Box-end on one end and an open-end on the other
2. Both ends are usually the same size
3. Provides the advantage of two types of wrenches for the price
of one
v. Line wrenches
1. A box-end wrench with a small opening or split in the jaw
2. The opening allows for the wrench to be slipped over fuel lines,
brake lines, or power steering lines and onto the fitting nut
3. Prevents damage to soft fittings.
vi. Ratcheting wrenches
1. Has a gear and lever mechanism so the wrench can be moved
back and forth for rapid faster installation or removal.
2. Comes with an open-end and a box-end that are the same size
vii. Socket wrenches
1. Consists of a socket and a socket handle
2. Socket is a cylinder-shaped, box-end tool for removing or
installing bolts and nuts
a. One end fits over the handle (square end) and the
other fits over the fastener.
b. Sockets drive size
i. The size of the square opening for the ratchet
or tool handle
ii. Four drive sizes – ¼”, 3/8”, ½”, ¾” (most common
being 3/8” and ½”)
1. ¼” used on bolts and nut heads ¼” and
smaller
2.
3
/8” used on bolts and nut heads between
¼” and 5/8”
3. ½” used on bolts and nut heads from 5/8”
to 1”
4. ¾” used on bolts and nut heads larger
than 1”
c. Point Types
i. 4-point, 6-point, 8-point, 12-point (most common
being 6 and 12)
ii. 6-points are required when a bolt is very tight
an you don’t want to “round off” or strip the bolt
head
3. Socket handles
a. Fit into the square opening of the socket
b. Handles have a gear and level mechanism so the wrench
can be moved back and forth for rapid fastener
installation or removal
c. Socket handles
i. Standard ratchet
ii. Offset ratchet
iii. Stuffy ratchet
iv. Breaker bars
1. Is the strongest socket handle and
provides the most leverage
2. Should be used when breaking loose large
or extremely tight bolts and nuts
v. Insulated breaker bars
d. Extensions are used between a socket and its handle o
allow access to difficult-to-reach fasteners
e. Universal Joint
i. A swivel that lets the socket wrench reach
around obstructions
ii. It’s used between the socket and handle, with or
without an extension
iii. Avoid putting too much bend into the joint
because it may bind and break
viii. Adjustable wrenches
1. Has jaws that can be adjusted to fit different size bolt and
nut heads
2. Should only be used when other types of wrenches will not fit
3. Handy to have in case of emergencies
ix. Pipe wrenches
1. An adjustable wrench used to grasp cylindrical objects
2. The toothed jaws dig into the object for better grip
3. Never use it on parts that will be ruined by marks or nicks
x. Allen wrenches
1. A hexagonal shaft-type wrench
2. Used to turn set screws on pulleys, gears and knobs
xi. Insulated Ratcheting wrench
1. Used to avoid electrocution
xii. Reversing ratcheting wrench
xiii. Flex combination wrench
xiv. Half-moon, 12-point wrench
1. Works well for tight quarters
xv. Chain wrench
1. Used to grasp oil filters for removal
b. Screwdrivers
i. Used to remove or install screws
ii. When selecting a screwdriver, make sure that you pick one that is
wide and thick enough to completely fill the screw slot.
iii. If the screwdriver is too big or small it may damage the screw driver
and/or the screw
iv. Do not hammer or pry objects using a screwdriver, unless you are
using an impact driver.
v. Shapes
1. Standard
a. Single blade that fits into the slot in the screw head
2. Phillips
a. Two crossing blades that fit into a star-shaped screw
slot
3. Frearson
a. Similar to a Philips
4. Torx
a. Used to remove and install Torx screws
i. A Torx screw has a 6-point, star-shaped
indentation formed into its head
b. The shape of the indentation allows Torx screws to be
rotated with a great deal of force, or torque, without
damaging the head.
5. Clutch
a. Used for clutch-head fasteners
i. Has a bow-tie shaped opening in its head
vi. Styles
1. Offset
2. Stubby
a. Both of these are good for loosing screws inside tight
places such as a glove box.
3. Starting Screwdriver
a. Hold the screw securely until started in its hole
vii. Scratch awl
1. Looks like a screwdriver, but is used to mark sheet metal and
other parts
viii. Impact driver
1. Used to loosen extremely tight screws
2. When struck with a hammer, the driver exerts powerful
turning and downward forces
c. Pliers
i. Used to grip, cut, crimp, hold and bend various parts
ii. Never use pliers when another type of tool will work because pliers
can nick and scar a part
iii. Types
1. Slip-joint pliers
a. Most common pliers used
b. The slip joint allows for the jaws to be adjusted to
grasp different size parts
2. Rib joint pliers
a. Are similar to slip-joint pliers but they open extra wide
for holding very large objects
3. Needle nose pliers
a. Excellent for handling extremely small parts or
reaching into highly restricted areas
b. Do not twist too hard on needle nose pliers or the long
thin jaws can be bent
4. Diagonal cutting pliers
a. Most commonly used cutting pliers
b. Jaw shape allows them to cut items flush with an
adjacent surface
c. Often used to cut off cotter pins, wires and plastic ties
5. Vice grip pliers
a. Clamp onto and hold a part
b. This frees both hands to do other task
c. They can be used to unscrew fasteners with stripped or
rounded heads
d. NEVER use them on undamaged nuts or bolts because
the jaws can distort the surface
6. Snap ring pliers
a. Have sharp, pointed tips for installing and removing
special clips called snap rings
7. Wire stripping pliers
a. Designed to easily remove plastic insulation from
different sized wires
8. Battery Pliers
a. Have jaws for grasping corroded fasteners on battery
cables
d. Hammers
i. Hammer Rules
1. Select the right size hammer. If a large part is struck by a
small hammer, then the hammer can fly backwards
dangerously. If the hammer is too big, then the part can be
damaged.
2. Always check that the hammer head is tight on the handle. If
not, the head may fly off and cause injury or damage.
3. Use a brass, plastic or dead blow hammer on parts and tools
that can be damaged by a steel hammer. Use a steel hammer
only when maximum driving force is required.
4. Grasp the hammer near the end of the handle and strike the
part or tool squarely
ii. Types
1. Ball peen hammer
a. Most common type of hammer
b. Has a flat face for general striking and also a round end
for shaping metal parts such as sheet metal or rivet
heads
2. Sledgehammer
a. Has a very large head
b. Usually the heaviest hammer and produces power blows
3. Brass hammer
a. Has a soft, heavy head and is useful when scarring the
surface of a part must be avoided. The relatively soft
head deforms to protect the part surface from
damage.
4. Plastic hammer
a. Also known as rawhide hammer
b. Light and has a soft head
c. It is used where light blows are needed to prevent part
breakage or damage to surfaces on small delicate parts
5. Rubber mallet
a. Has a head made of solid rubber
b. It will rebound, or bounce, upon striking and is not
effective on solid metal parts. It is recommended on
many sheet metal or plastic parts, such as garnish
molding and wheel covers.
6. Dead blow hammer
a. A plastic-coated, metal face and is filled with small
metal balls called lead shots
b. The extra weight of the lead shots prevents a rebound
of the hammer when striking. The plastic coating
prevents surface damage.
e. Chisels and Punches
i. Chisel
1. Used for cutting off damage or badly rusted nuts, bolts, and
rivet heads
ii. Punches
1. Used to make an indentation or hole in a surface
iii. Types
1. Flat chisel
2. Cape chisel
3. Round-nose cap chisel
4. Diamond-point chisel
5. Chisel or punch holder
6. Center punch
a. Frequently used to mark parts for reassembly and to
start a hole before drilling
b. The indentation will keep the drill bit from moving when
first starting to drill
7. Starting punch
a. Has a shank tapered all the way to the end
b. Strong and can withstand moderate blows
c. Used to drive pins, shafts and metal rods partway out
of a hole
8. Pin punch
a. A straight shank and is lighter than a starting punch
b. Is used after a starting punch to push a shaft or rod
the rest of the way out of a hole
9. Aligning punch
a. Has as long, tapered shaft and is handy for lining up
parts during assembly
b. An aligning punch can be inserted into holes in mating
parts and then wiggled to match up the holes.
c. Never use an aligning punch as a center punch
iv. Chisel and Punch rules
1. Use the largest punch or chisel that will work
2. Keep both ends of a chisel or punch properly ground and
shaped. A chisel’s cutting edge should be sharp and square. A
starting punch or a pin punch should also be ground flat and
square. A center punch should have a sharp point.
3. After prolonged hammering, the top of a chisel or punch can
become deformed and enlarged. This is called mushrooming. A
mushroomed chisel or punch is dangerous. Grind off the
mushroom and form a chamfer
4. When grinding a chisel or punch, grind slowly to avoid
overheating the tool. Excessive heat will cause the tool to turn
blue, lose its temper, and become soft.
5. Make sure to wear eye protection when using or grinding a
chisel or punch.
f. Files
i. Remove burrs, nick and sharp edges and perform other smoothing
operations.
ii. Classified by its length, shape and cutting surface
iii. Generally a coarse file with large cutting teeth should be used on soft
materials such as plastic, brass, and aluminum. Fine files with small
cutting teeth are needed to produce a smoother surface and to cut
harder materials, like cast iron or steel.
iv. File rules
1. Never use a file without a handle securely attached. If the
file is used without a handle, the pointed tang can puncture
your hand or wrist
2. To prevent undue file wear, apply pressure only on the forward
stroke. Lift the file on the backstroke.
3. When filing, place one hand on the handle and the other on the
file tip. Hold the file firmly but do not press too hard.
4. Do not file too rapidly. One file stroke every second is fast
enough. Count to yourself and time your strokes properly at
50-60 strokes per minute.
5. If a file becomes clogged, clean it with a file card or a stiff
wire brush
6. Never hammer on or pry with a file! A file is very brittle and
will break easily. Bits of the file can fly into your face or eyes.
v. Types
1. Flat, single-cut file
2. Flat, double-cut file
3. Half-round file
4. Three-corner file
5. Round file
g. Saws
i. Hacksaw
1. Used to cut metal objects
2. Blades of various lengths can be mounted in the saw’s
adjustable frame
3. The blade teeth should point away from the handle and the
blade should be fastened tightly in the frame.
4. When selecting a blade, a rule of thumb to follow is at least
two saw teeth should contact the material being cut at any
given time.
a. This prevents the teeth from catching on the material
and potentially breaking.
5. When cutting, place one hand on the hacksaw handle and the
other on the end of the frame.
a. Press down lightly on the forward stroke and release
pressure on the backstroke
b. Use 50-60 strokes per minute
c. If cuts are made faster than this, the blade will quickly
overheat, soften and become dull
h. Holding Tools
i. Vise
1. Used to hold parts during cutting, drilling, hammering, and
pressing operations
2. It is mounted on a workbench
3. Vise caps
a. Are used to prevent damage when mounting precision or
delicate parts in a vise
b. Vise caps are soft metal jaw covers. They will not only
protect the part but will provide a more secure grip
4. Vise rules
a. Never hammer on a vise handle to tighten or loosen the
vise. Use the weight of your body to turn the vise
handle
b. Keep the moving parts of the vise clean and oiled
c. Wear safety glasses when using a vise. Tremendous
clamping force can be exerted and parts may break and
fly out
d. Be careful not to damage parts in the jaws of the vise
e. Use vise caps when a precision part is held in a vise.
This will prevent part damage.
ii. C-clamp
1. Holds parts on a work surface when drilling, filing, cutting,
welding or doing other operations
2. There are many different sizes.
iii. Stands and holding fixtures
1. Used to secure heavy or clumsy parts during repairs
2. Cylinder head stands, transmission fixtures, rear axle holding
stands, and other will make your work safer and easier
i.
Cleaning Tools
i. Help the technician remove carbon, rust, dirt, grease, old gaskets,
and dried oil form parts.
ii. Scrapers
1. Remove grease, gaskets, sludge, dried oil, and carbon on flat
parts
2. Wear work gloves and keep you hand out of the way to avoid
deep cuts
3. Types
a. Razor blade scrapers
b. Gasket scrapers or putty knives
c. Spring gasket scrapers
iii. Brushes
1. Used to remove light rust, pain, and dirt on round or
irregularly shaped parts
2. They are slow and should be used only when heavy, flaky,
chalky deposits are coming off of the curved surface of the
part.
j. Probe and Pickup tools
i. These are needed when bolts, nuts, or other small parts are dropped
and cannot be reached by hand.
ii. Types
1. Magnetic pickup tool
a. Is a magnet hinged to the end of a rod
b. It can usually be shortened or lengthened and swiveled
to reach into any area
c. If a metal part is dropped, it will be attracted and stick
to the magnet
2. Finger pickup tool
a. Used to grasp tools that are nonmagnetic (aluminum,
plastic, rubber) which will not stick to a magnet
3. Mirror probe
a. Allows you to look around corners or behind parts
k. Cutting Tools
i. Needed to open part boxes, cut off insulation, and to do similar tasks
ii. Razor blades are the most common cutting tool
l.
Pry Bars
i. Strong steel bars
ii. Helpful during assembly, disassembly and adjustment operations
iii. When using pry bars, always be careful not to damage any part of the
vehicle
m. Insulated Tools
i. Designed to help protect against electric shock and electrocution
when working on high-voltage circuits
ii. Frequently used for hybrid electric drive train service
iii. Only use tools rated at 1000 V for high-voltage service work
iv. Types
1. Insulated wrench
a. Conventional steel coated with synthetic plastic to
prevent electric current from accidentally flowing
through the wrench and your body
2. Electrician’s pliers
a. Have gripping and cutting surfacing for working with
wiring
b. An insulated handle is provided to help prevent
electrocution from high-voltage sources
3. Plastic pliers
a. Made of solid insulating material for the highest
protection when working with high-voltage hybrid
electric drive train circuits.
4. Graphite screwdrivers
a. Have a plastic handle and a plastic shank, while only the
tip of the tool is made of conductive, hardened steel.
n. Compressed-Air System
i. Air compressor
1. Source of compressed air
2. Normally has an electric motor that spins an air pump. The air
pump forces air into a large, metal storage tank.
3. The air compressor turns on and off automatically to maintain
a preset pressure in the system.
ii. Air lines and Hoses
1. Metal airlines feed out from the air compressor’s tank
2. Flexible high-pressure air hoses are connected to the metal
lines.
a. These hoses allow the technician to take a source of air
pressure to the vehicle being repaired
3. Quick-disconnect couplings are used to connect air hoses and
air tools to the compressed air system without using a wrench.
a. To join or separate a quick-disconnect coupling, pull
back on the coupling’s outer sleeve with your finger
pressure
b. With the sleeve pulled back, you can push the coupling
together or pull it apart.
iii. Pressure regulator
1. Used to set a specific pressure in the compressed-air system
2. It’s called the shop pressure as is usually set between 100 and
150 pounds per square inch (psi)
iv. Filter
1. Removes the water from the compressed system which in turn
increases the life of the air tools
v. Lubricator
1. Introduces oil into the airstream which also increases the life
of the air tools.
o. Air Tools (powered by a compressed-air system)
i. Use the stored energy of compressed air for operation
ii. Always lubricate the tool before and after use
1. While pressing the air tool’s trigger, squirt a few drops of air
tool oil into the tools air inlet fitting
2. This helps the protect the internal parts of the tool
3. Hold a rag around the air outlet and run the oiled tool briefly
to circulate the lubricant through the air motor.
4. Excess oil will be sprayed into your shop rag
5. Wipe the tool clean before use or storage
iii. Types
1. Impact wrench
a. Heavy-duty air wrenches that produce a great deal of
torque to remove or install fasteners
b. They use an air motor to produce a striking, or
hammering, force that rotates the driving head
c. The driving head hold a special impact socket
d. Drive Sizes
i. ¼”
1. Tiny machine screws in the interior or on
trim pieces of the vehicle
ii.
3
/8”
1. Ideal for small fasteners such as ¼” –
9
/16” bolts
iii. ½”
1. For general purpose use with medium to
large fasteners such as ½” to 1” bolts and
wheel lug nuts
iv. ¾”
1. For extremely large fasteners found on
trucks
e. A button or switch on the impact wrench controls the
direction of rotation, usually clockwise to tighten and
counterclockwise to loosen.
2. Air ratchet
a. A special air wrench designed to quickly install or
remove fasteners
b. Used for working in limited spaces but it does not have
very much turning power
c. Final tightening and initial loosening most often has to
be done with a hand tool
d. Drive sizes
i. ¼”, 3/8”, ½”
3. Impact sockets and extensions
a. Must be used with air and electric wrenches
b. Impact tools are case-hardened steel and are thicker
and much stronger than conventional chrome-plated
sockets and extensions
c. Have a flat black finish
4. Air hammer
a. Useful during various driving and cutting operations
b. Capable of producing about 1000-4000 impacts per
minute
5. Blowgun
a. Used to dry and clean parts washed in solvent
b. Used to blow dust and loose dirt from parts before or
during disassembly
c. Always wear eye protection and direct the blast away
from yourself and others
d. Do not blow clean brake and clutch parts because the
dust from these parts contain asbestos
6. Solvent Gun
a. Used to wash parts that will not fit into a cleaning tank
7. Air drill
a. Used for many tasks because of its power output and
speed adjustment capabilities
b. With the use of attachments, air drills can drill holes,
grind, polish and clean parts.
8. Rotary brush
a. Used in an air drill for rapid cleaning of parts
b. Can quickly remove old gasket material, carbon
deposits, and rust with a minimum amount of effort
9. Abrasive pad
a. Cleaning tool used in an air drill
b. Used for removing old gasket material
c. Has the advantage of not scratching aluminum like a
rotary brush can
10. Rotary File
a. Used in an air drill and is handy for removing metal
burrs and nicks
p. Electric tools
i. Bench grinder
1. Used for grinding, cleaning or polishing operations
2. Has two wheels
a. Grinding wheel – used for sharpening and deburring
metal tools, such as chisels and punches
b. Wire wheel – used for cleaning and polishing metal
tools, such as scrapers and putty knives
3. Rules:
a. Always wear eye protection and keep your hands away
from the wheel
b. Make sure the grinder shields are in place
c. Keep the tool rest adjusted close to the wheel. If the
rest is not close to the wheel, the part being ground
can catch in the grinder.
d. Do not use a wire wheel to clean soft metal parts, such
as aluminum pistons or brass brushings. The abrasive
action of the wheel can remove metal or scuff the part
and ruin it. Instead use a solvent and a dull hand
scraper on soft metal parts.
ii. Drills
1. Used to create holes in metal and plastic parts
2. Can be portable or mounted.
3. Bits
a. Used in drills to drill holes in metal and plastic parts
b. Mounted in the drill chuck
c. A special key called a chuck key is sometimes needed to
tighten the drill bit in the chuck
d. Drill bits are commonly made of either carbon steel or
high-speed steel
4. Portable electric drill
a. Hand-held drills
b. They come in different sizes
c. Electric drills with power cords are needed for
difficult or high-torque operations
i. Commonly used sizes are ¼”, 3/8” and ½”
5. Drill press
a. A large, floor- or bench-mounted drill needed for
drilling large, deep or multiple holes in several parts
b. The drill press allows the bit to be pressed into the
work with increased force
c. Larger drill bits can be used
d. Drill press rules
i. Remove the key from the cuck before turning on
the drill press
ii. Secure the part to be drill with C-clamps or
other holding fixtures
iii. Use a center punch to indent the part and start
the hole
iv. To prevent injury, release drilling pressure right
before the bit breaks through the bottom of
the part. A drill bit tends to catch when
breaking through. This can cause the drill or the
part to rotate dangerously
v. Oil the bit as needed. Oil pulls heat out of the
bit and transfers it into the base metal being
drilled. Without oil, a drill bit can overheat and
lose its hardness before dulling quickly.
q. Hydraulic Tools – powered by pressurized liquid
i. Floor jack
1. Used to raise either the front, sides or rear of a vehicle
2. Place the jack saddle under a solid part of the car, such as the
frame, suspension arm, or axle housing.
3. To raise the vehicle, turn the jack handle or knob clockwise
and pump the handle.
4. To lower the vehicle, turn the handle or knob counterclockwise
slowly to open the pressure-release valve
5. When raising the vehicle, place the transmission in neutral and
release the parking break
a. This lets the vehicle roll, preventing it from pulling off
of the jack
6. After raising, secure the vehicle on jack stands.
a. Place an automatic transmission in park and a manual
transmission in gear.
b. Apply the emergency brake and block the wheels
ii. Transmission jack
1. Designed to hold transmissions and transaxles during removal
or installation
2. There are two types
a. One is similar to a floor jack
b. The other is taller and designed to be used while the
vehicle is raised on a lift
iii. Engine crane
1. Used to remove and install heavy engine assemblies
2. Has a hydraulic hand jack for raising engines and a pressurerelease valve for lowering engines
3. Also handy for lifting intake manifolds, cylinder heads, engine
blocks, transmissions, transaxles, and other heavy parts
iv. Hydraulic press
1. Used to install or remove gears, pulleys, bearings, seals and
other parts requiring a high pushing force
2. A hydraulic ram extends as the pump handle is worked.
3. The ram presses the parts against a table
r. Shop equipment
i. Tire changer
1. Used to remove and replace tires on wheels
2. Some are pneumatic and other are hand held
ii. Jack stands
1. Supports a vehicle during repairs
2. After raising the vehicle with a jack, place stack stands under
the vehicle
iii. Engine stands
1. Used to hold an engine assembly once it is removed from the
vehicle for rebuilding or repair
2. The engine cylinder block bolts to the stand just as it would to
the transmission or tansaxle
iv. Cold-solvent tank
1. Contains a pump, reservoir, and solvent and it is used to
remove grease and oil from parts
2. After removing all old gaskets and scraping off excess grease,
you can scrub the parts clean in the solvent.
3. A blowgun is then normally used to dry the solvent
v. High-pressure washer and steam cleaner
1. Can be used to remove heavy deposits of dirt, grease, and oil
from the outside of large assemblies such as engine,
transmissions and transaxles.
2. To keep the environment clean, wire brush the item to be
cleaned and collet oil-soaked dirt before steaming or washing.
vi. Pressure blaster
1. Used to clean rust or corroded parts.
2. Enclosed cabinet that has rubber gloves that extend into the
cabinet for sandblasting and for cleaning dry parts.
vii. Oxyacetylene torch
1. Used to heat, cut, weld or braze metal parts
2. Consists of an oxygen tank, an acetylene tank, pressure
regulators, hoses and a hand-held torch
3. Service procedure
a. Put on all necessary protective gear, including welding
helmet or tinted goggles, thick leather welding gloves,
and a leather jacket
b. Inspect the oxyacetylene equipment for damage and
make sure all cylinder, regulator, and torch valves are
closes. Turn on the main gas valves on both tanks and
check hoses for leaks
c. Light the cutting torch according to the manufacturer’s
recommendations
d. With the torch held at a 90 angle to the work piece,
concentrate the flame on the spot where the cut will
begin.
e. When the spot becomes cherry red, depress the
oxygen-cutting lever to begin the cut
f. Move the torch along the work piece slowly an steadily
to make a continuous cut
g. As soon as the cut is complete, release the cutting
lever and shut off the torch and main tank valves
viii. Welder
1. Uses a high electric current to create a high-powered electric
arc to melt and fuse metal parts together
ix. Soldering gun
1. Used to join wires during electrical repairs
2. An electric current heats the tip of the iron or gun
3. The hot tip is used to heat the wires
4. Solder is applied to the hot wires and it melts
5. Solder is a lead-tin alloy that hardens into a strong, solid
connection
x. Battery charger
1. Used to re-energize a “dead” or discharged battery
2. It forces current back into the battery to recharge it
3. The red charger lead connects to the positive (+) battery
terminal and the black charger lead connects to the negative () battery terminal.
xi. Drop light
1. Provides portable source of light
2. The light can be taken to the repair area under the vehicle or
in the trunk, passenger compartment or engine compartment
3. They are accompanied by a hook so that they are able to be
hung up for ease of use.
xii. Pullers
1. Used to remove seals, gears, pulleys, steering wheels, axles,
and other pressed-on parts
xiii. Creepers
1. Used when working under a car supported on jack stands.
2. It allows the technician to easily roll under vehicles without
getting dirty
3. Stool Creeper
a. Allows the technician to be at eye level with tires and
brake systems.
xiv. Roll around cart
1. Used for taking a number of tools to the job
xv. Covers
1. Fender covers
a. Placed over the fenders, upper grille, or other body
sections to prevent vehicle damage.
b. They protect the paint or finish from nicks, scratches
and grease
2. Seat covers
a. Placed over seats to protect them from dirt, oil and
grease that might be on your work clothes
xvi. Computer
1. Used by some technicians to help with tasks including problem
diagnosis, preprogramming of computer chips, bookkeeping and
reference to service literature
s. Measuring Tools
i. Rules
1. Never drop or overtighten a micrometer or caliper. They are
very delicate and their accuracy can be thrown off easily.
2. Store micrometers, digital calipers, and other measuring tools
where they cannot be damaged. Keep them in wooden or plastic
storage boxes
3. Grasp the micrometer frame in your palm and turn the thimble
with your thumb and finger. The measuring faces should just
drag on the part being measured.
4. Hold the micrometer or caliper squarely with the work or false
readings can result. Closely watch how the spindle or jaws are
contacting the part.
5. Rock or swivel the micrometer as it is touched on round parts.
This will ensure the most accurate diameter measurement is
obtained.
6. Place a thin film of oil on the micrometer or caliper surfaces
during storage. This will keep the tool from rusting.
7. Always check the accuracy of a micrometer or caliper if it is
dropped or struck, or after a long period of use. Standardized
gauge blocks, available from you tool suppliers, are used for
checking micrometer accuracy.
ii. Scale
1. Used to make low-precision linear measurements.
2. It is accurate to about 1/64” in most instances
3. Types
a. Customary rule
i. Numbered lines that represent full inches
ii. The smaller, unnumbered lines, or graduations
represent fractions of an inch, such as ½”, ¼”,
1/8” and 1/16”
b. Pocket rule
i. Typically 6” and is small enough to fit in your
shirt pocket
c. Metric rule
i. Has lines representing millimeters
ii. Each numbered line equals 10 mm or 1 cm
d. Combination square
i. Sliding square that is mounted on a steel rule
ii. It is needed when the rule must be held
perfectly square against the part being
measured
e. Tape measure
i. Extends several feet or meters in length
ii. It is sometimes needed for large distance
measurements during body, suspension, and
exhaust system repairs
f. Yardstick
i. A rigid measuring device used for large lineal
measurements up to one yard or one meter
iii. Calipers
1. Outside caliper
a. Used to make external measurements when 1/64”
accuracy is sufficient
b. It is fitted over the outside of parts and adjusted so
each tip just touches the part
c. The caliper is the held up to a ruler and the distance
between the tips is measured to determine the size of
the part
2. Inside caliper
a. Designed for internal measurements in holes and other
openings
b. It is placed inside the hole and adjusted until the tips
just touch the part
c. The caliper is the held up to a ruler and the distance
between the tips is measured to determine the size of
the part
3. Vernier caliper
a. A sliding measuring device that can make inside,
outside, and depth measurements with considerable
accuracy
b. Can take measurements as small as 0.001”
c. Some have a dial gauge attached so that you can read
the thousandths part of a measurement easier
d. It is fast and easy to use, making it a useful tool for
technicians to have
iv. Micrometers
1. Used to make very accurate measurements up to one-tenthousandth of an inch (0.0001”) or one thousandth of a
millimeter
2. Outside micrometers
a. Used for measuring external dimensions, diameters or
thicknesses.
b. Place it around the outside of the part
c. Turn the thimble until both the spindle and anvil are
lightly touching
d. Finally, read the graduations on a the hub and thimble
to determine the measurement
3. Inside micrometers
a. Used for internal measurements of large holes,
cylinders, or other part openings
b. Place the micrometer inside the opening
c. Then, adjust the micrometer until it just touches the
walls of the opening
d. Finally, remove the micrometer and read the
measurement
4. Depth micrometers
a. Helpful when precisely measuring the depth of an
opening
b. The base of the micrometer is positioned squarely on
the part
c. The thimble is turned until the spindle contacts the
bottom of the opening.
d. The depth micrometer is read in the same way as an
outside micrometer, however the hub markings are
reversed
5. Reading a Customary Micrometer
a. Note the largest number visible on the micrometer
sleeve. Each number equals 0.100”
b. Count the number of graduation lines to the right of
the sleeve number. Each full sleeve graduation equals
0.025”
c. Note the thimble graduation aligned with the horizontal
sleeve line. Each thimble graduation equals 0.001”.
round off when the sleeve line is not directly aligned
with a thimble graduation
d. Add the decimal values from steps 1, 2,and 3. Add any
full inches. This sum is the micrometer reading in
inches.
6. Reading a Metric Micrometer
a. Similar to a customary micrometers but one revolution
of the thimble equals 0.500 mm.
b. Read the largest visible on the micrometer sleeve. Each
number equals 1.00 mm
c. Count the number of graduation lines (both above and
below the horizontal sleeve line) to the right of the
sleeve number. Each full sleeve graduation equal 0.5 mm
d. Read the thimble graduation aligned with the horizontal
sleeve line. Each thimble graduation equals 0.01 mm
e. Add the values from the steps 1, 2, and 3. This sum is
the metric micrometer
v. Feeler gauges
1. Used to measure small clearances or gaps between parts.
2. Flat feeler gauges have precision-ground steel blades of
various thickness
a. Thickness is written on each blade in thousandths of an
inch and/or in hundredths of a millimeter.
b. A flat feeler gauge is normally used to measure
distance between parallel surfaces
3. Wire feeler gauge has precise-size wires labeled by diameter
or thickness.
a. It is normally used to measure slightly larger spaces or
gaps than a flat feeler gauge
b. Also used for measuring the distance between
unparalleled or curved surfaces
4. How to use a feeler gauge
a. Find the gauge blade or wire that just fits between the
two parts being measured
b. The gauge should be dragged slightly when pulled
between the two surfaces
c. The size given on the gauge is the clearance between
the two components
vi. Dial indicator
1. Used to measure part movement in thousandths of an inch
2. The needle or digital display on the indicator face registers
the amount of plunger movement
3. Frequently used to check gear teeth backlash, shaft end play,
cam lobe lift, and similar kinds of part movements
4. Using a dial indicator
a. Mount the indicator securely and position the dial
plunger parallel with the movement to be measured
b. Partially compress the indicator plunger before locking
the indicator into place. This allows part movement in
either direction to be measured
c. Move the part back and forth or rotate the part while
reading the indicator
d. Subtract the lowest reading from the highest reading.
The result equals the distance the part moved, the
clearance, or the run out.
vii. Temperature measurement
1. Thermometers
2. Used to measure temperature
3. For example, air conditioning output temperature or radiator
temperature may need to be determined
4. The temperature obtained with the gauge can be compared to
specifications
viii. Torque wrench
1. Not used for taking measurements, rather its used to apply a
specific amount of turning force to a fastener, such as a bolt
or nut
2. Torque wrench scales usually read in foot-pounds and Newtonmeters
ix. Pressure gauge
1. Used to measure air or fluid pressure in various systems and
components
2. Used to check tire air pressure, fuel pump pressure, air
conditioning system pressure, or engine compression stroke
pressure
3. A pressure gauge normally reads in pounds per square inch,
kilograms per square centimeter, or kilopascals
x. Vacuum gauge
1. Measure negative pressure or vacuum
2. Similar to a pressure gauge reads in inches of mercury or
metric kilograms per square centimeter
3. For example, a vacuum gauge is used to measure the vacuum in
an engine’s intake manifold
xi. Telescoping gauge
1. Used to measure internal part bores or openings.
2. To use the gauge, compress the spring-loaded extensions and
lock them with the thumb wheel
3. Then insert the gauge into the opening and release the thumb
wheel
4. The extensions snap to the edges of the opening
5. Use the thumb wheel to lock the extensions to the size
6. Finally use an outside micrometer to measure the distance
across the extensions
xii. Hole gauge
1. Used for measuring very small holes in parts.
2. To use a hole gauge, first loosen the thumb wheel.
3. Then, insert the gauge into the hole and tighten the thumb
wheel until the gauge just touches the part.
4. Finally, remove the gauge and measure it with an outside
micrometer