ZARA: A LEADER IN FAST FASHION & GLOBAL RETAILING Rachel Aihara Diana Argueta Lindy Arn Brianne Bart California State Polytechnic University, Pomona May 25, 2012 AMM 457: Dynamics of the Global Apparel Complex Zara: A Leader in Fast Fashion and Global Retailing 2 INTRODUCTION The fashion world is ever changing and the challenges of keeping up with trends and forecasting only continues to grow. Zara however, has found a way to bridge the gap between producer and consumer in a way that the industry has never seen before. The fast paced, on-trend fashion company prides itself on bringing the most relevant fashion trends at affordable price points, and in less time than any other competitor. Based out of Coruna Spain, Zara has found itself reinventing the supply chain. They are setting new supply standards, and changing the way mainstream trend chasers function. So what is it that makes Zara so different? For starters, Zara is able to quickly design, produce, and ship the most recent and on-point fashion trends in less time and for less cost than their competitors. Zara is able to do this by taking a hands-on approach which allows them to influence the entire garment supply chain from design, to purchasing, to production, to distribution, and finally to retailing. ZARA AND GLOBALIZATION Zara is a globally recognized brand. The company is known for providing consumers with the latest fashion goods while keeping the items at a reasonable price. While most brands today are accustomed to releasing a line according to seasons, Zara constantly provides new garments to today’s consumers. Zara has been rapidly evolving because the company strives to keep up with the ever-changing fashion industry. Author David Birnbaum states that Zara has responded well to globalization because they are the first to provide “the latest fashion items at a competitive price, they operate a true speed-tomarket, they make full use of test orders, and lastly they were the first company to move to Zara: A Leader in Fast Fashion and Global Retailing 3 a three-dimensional globalization. It is three-dimensional globalization, which may prove to be Zara’s most important innovation, but which, paradoxically, may also be the greatest challenge facing the company” (Birnbaum, 2012). The three-dimensional globalization includes vendor globalization, consumer globalization, and design globalization. Zara undergoes vendor globalization because they have ongoing production around the world. Consumer globalization is seen in how the company will market their brand worldwide. Lastly the company undergoes design globalization because they have no local design identity (Birnbaum, 2012). The fashion industry is constantly changing and because of this, Zara is faced with many obstacles. The company must ensure that their products will sell while also providing new innovative products before many other retail stores will have them in stock. ZARA’S CURRENT ACTIVITIES At the heart of any successful company’s business model lays the target consumer and Zara is no different. Zara is a part of the Inditex Group (one of the world’s largest distribution groups). The vertically integrated Zara company combines the aspects of design, production, distribution, and sales in such a knowledgeable way that they are widely thought of as the world’s number one global retailer. Zara is famous for claiming that their product life cycle is only 15 days long, from design to distribution. In this way, they can capitalize on the concept of fast fashion. Around 40,000 design concepts are introduced. On average, about 10,000 of those products see completion each year. (Scribd, 2003). Zara: A Leader in Fast Fashion and Global Retailing 4 Only 0.3% of Zara’s profits are devoted to advertising. This is considerably less than the industry average of 3%-4%. This is partly because Zara’s inventory is kept at an extremely low rate. This leads customers to making purchasing decisions based on whether they think they will have another chance to buy the product. Zara customers visit stores more frequently and this lessens the need for outside advertising. (Scribd, 2003). In order to attain an international advantage over competitors, Zara has a broad target market consisting of a Men’s, Women’s, and Children’s departments. In addition, Zara has a single, centralized location in Spain which allows for easy communication between departments. There are three halls in the location, each hall for a different department. The design department for each line is also located in each of these halls. This allows the designers to be a part of each portion of production and allows for a streamlined process. (Scribd, 2003). Zara aims to be an environmentally conscious member of the retail sector through saving energy in their eco-friendly shops, producing less waste, recycling, and extending commitments to all of their staff through educating their team to become environmentally aware. In their eco-friendly shops, the company aims to decrease their usage of lighting, cooling, and heating in order to reach a total reduction of energy consumption by 20%. Hangars and alarms are recycled and processed into other plastic products. Cardboard is recycled, too. Zara takes a multimedia-based approach to educate their employees on the importance of being environmentally conscious. ("Company - zara," 2010) The company also has products that are made of ecological fabrics. This means that there are no pesticides, chemicals, or bleach used. These products are comprised of organic Zara: A Leader in Fast Fashion and Global Retailing 5 cotton. In addition, all of Zara’s footwear is PVC free. This means that no petroleum-based or non-biodegradable products are used. Transporting products is another consideration Zara takes seriously. They have reduced their CO2 emissions by 500 tons through using 5% biodiesel fuel. ("Company - zara," 2010) STRATEGY AND PHILOSOPHY OF THE ZARA COMPANY Zara’s company strategy begins with their core philosophy to supply on-trend fashions at affordable prices and in less time than their competitors. A strategy that sets them apart from major competitors is the fact that they don’t focus on advertising or branding but rather on the fashions. Zara’s customers don’t shop there for the brand name but simply because they like the clothes regardless of the label. (Scribd, 2003). The corporate strategies used at Zara are very different than that of a typical fashion brand. The design teams do not solely work on the upcoming season, they continually update and revamp current trends that will be designed, produced, and shipped in a matter of just weeks from the initial concept. This fast-paced and unique system requires a business strategy that uses similar management models for all brands within the company in order to control the total supply chain and maximize the speed to the market. (Scribd, 2003). Zara’s unique business model allows them to work with “negative working capital” which means that Zara is able to collect money faster than they actually have to spend money. This is done through fast fashion, controlling of cost and the supply chain, and franchising. (Scribd, 2003). SALES/PROFIT Zara: A Leader in Fast Fashion and Global Retailing 6 Zara is a company that is designed to be involved in all stages of the fashion process (Inditex, p. 9). The company is in charge of everything from design, manufacturing and logistics, to sales in stores (Inditex, p. 9). Zara is part of the Inditex Group, therefore the company follows Inditex’s business model. There are five keys to the business model, which are customers, store, design/production, logistics, and teams (Inditex, p. 9). The way Zara is organized and managed is what makes it possible for the company to produce new merchandise to bring into stores every two weeks (Inditex). Zara’s retail stores are geographically based in 82 countries, with approximately 1,631 stores strategically placed in the world’s largest cities (Inditex). The fact that Zara remain connected with its customers is what fuels the company’s 200- person strong creative team. Non-stop information from Zara’s stores is used to convey shoppers’ desires and demands to form ideas, trends, and tastes in the world considering a wide range of people, cultures, and generations (Inditex). Zara’s main office is located in A Coruna, Spain, with departments in finance and administration, international management, legal, capital market, internal auditing, corporate social responsibility, human resources, communication, architecture and construction, systems, property expansion, and exports-imports (Inditex). Logistics operators and delivery sales people organize the logistics department. This is Zara’s key factor in reaching customers in any part of the world with teamwork, agility, precision and responsibility in controlling product destination (Inditex). Products are handled by fashion designers, buyers, sales executives/product managers, stylist, and graphic designers (Inditex). Stores are organized by sales, cashiers, coordinators/merchandisers, managers, window dressers, and regional managers (Inditex). Zara: A Leader in Fast Fashion and Global Retailing 7 Zara is part of the Inditex Group, which is also part of seven other commercial concepts. Zara, Pull&Bear, Massimo Dutti, Bershka, Stradivarius, Oysho, Zara Home, and Uterque are all part of Inditex Group (Inditex, p.21). In 2010, Zara accounted for 64.6% of the total sales for the Inditex Group (Inditex, p.21). Zara’s sales were 8,088 in millions of Euros, selling in 1,723 stores, with three being new markets, and having a presence in 77 different countries (Inditex, p.21). Compared to statistics in 2009, Zara showed a 14% increase in sales from the previous year of 7,077 in millions of Euros (Inditex, p. 192). In terms of net sales and gross profit, Zara files under Inditex’s overall performance. During 2010, the Inditex Group saw net sales of 12,537 in millions of Euros and a gross profit of 7,422 in millions of Euros (Inditex, p. 195). In the previous year, 2009, the Inditex Group had net sales of 11,084 in millions of Euros and a gross profit of 6,328 in millions of Euros (Inditex, p. 195). Overall, Zara is a company that contributes to most of the Inditex Group sales, since Zara is the founding commercial concept of the Inditex Group. Indication shows that future growth in sales and net profit are already set in place for the global company. Shown in the table below, net sales by commercial concepts in the Inditex Group indicates that Zara accounts for most of the total sales in both 2010 and 2009. Zara: A Leader in Fast Fashion and Global Retailing 8 Source Inditex p. 192 In the table below, net sales and gross profit for the entire Inditex Group can be seen for both 2010 and 2009. Source: Inditex, page 195 SWOT ANALYSIS Zara: A Leader in Fast Fashion and Global Retailing 9 Like any other company, Zara is a company that has many strengths and weaknesses. Some of Zara’s many strengths include being highly innovative, which allows for growth. However, along with such innovation comes a great deal of risks and weaknesses. Strengths - Provides consumers with new and innovative products Provides goods at a reasonable and competitive price. They target women, men, and children as well The company has become global Opportunity - To create more basic goods that will always be in demand Wider expansion with retail stores and online store Weakness - Zara does not have a strong brand image. Does not provide consumers with basic goods Hard to distinguish among the crowd. Threats - Companies such as H&M and Forever 21 Retail locations are not readily available to many As shown in the SWOT analysis, Zara has many strengths such as their ability to provide new and innovative products before many other retailers can. They also offer these goods at competitive price points. The company has utilized globalization and targets men, women, and children. Some weaknesses of the company are their weak brand image and their lack of basic goods in their inventory. Zara has a weak brand image and so their clothing is difficult to distinguish among the crowd compared to brands with a stronger branding. They also don’t provide basic goods in their stores. However, these areas are both opportunities for the future and show that Zara does have room for growth. Some threats to the company are other price competitive brands such as H&M and Forever 21. Zara’s lack of expansion in the United States is also a threat because many are unaware of the company that is very well known in other parts of the world. Zara: A Leader in Fast Fashion and Global Retailing 10 COMPETITIVE ADVANTAGES When companies are competing in the same market or towards the same demographic they need to establish what is referred to as a competitive advantage in order to set them apart from the competition. “Competitive advantage is a core competency that creates a sustainable advantage for the organization over the competition. Its sets the organization apart but can easily and quickly be lost.” (Heimler, 2012). Porter’s Generic or Traditional competitive advantage theory states that competitive advantage only comes from having the lowest cost, and possessing desirable differences from competitors. Porter’s strategies for gaining the competitive advantage include a multitude of strategies such as: cost of leadership, differentiation, focus, and market segmentation for both product differentiation and cost. (Heimler, 2012). So what gives Zara their competitive advantage? For starters, Zara is able to quickly design, produce, and ship the most recent and on-point fashion trends in less time and for less cost than their competitors. Zara is able to do this by taking a hands-on approach which allows them to influence the entire garment supply chain from design, to purchasing, to production, to distribution, and finally to retailing. (Scribd, 2003). All of Zara’s designs are done in-house and they manufacture more than 50% of their products within their own facilities. After production, products are shipped through their own distribution center using a highly refined operating schedule tailored specifically for their needs. Retailing also plays a big part in Zara’s competitive advantage. Zara’s retail model focuses on low inventory with all stock on the floor. This allows Zara to constantly replace merchandise with newly designed and on trend shipments on a daily basis. This keeps a continual flow Zara: A Leader in Fast Fashion and Global Retailing 11 of merchandise, turnover, and customer traffic, which in turn keeps cost down, and customer interest up. (Scribd, 2003). CONCLUSION Through innovation and the support of investors Zara has been able to simultaneously grow a globally successful fashion company and create a business model that just might change the future of fast, trend based fashion as we know it. Zara has created a new meaning to fast pace. Companies no longer need to worry solely about what is next, but must also react to what is now. As Zara continues to bridge the gap between consumer and supplier, their supply chain shows just how much potential this type of business model has in an industry so driven by schedule. Zara: A Leader in Fast Fashion and Global Retailing 12 GLOSSARY Competitive Advantage: The core competency that creates a sustainable advantage for the organization over the completion. Its sets the organization apart but can easily and quickly be lost. (Heimler, 2012) Core Competency: An organization’s major value creating skills and capabilities that are shared within the organization. (Heimler, 2012) Porter’s Competitive Advantage Theory: Traditional competitive advantage theory which states that competitive advantage only come from having the lowest cost, and possessing desirable differences from competitors. (Heimler, 2012) Three-dimensional globalization: includes vendor globalization, consumer globalization, and design globalization. (Birnbaum, 2012) WORKS CITED Birnbaum, D. (2012, May 18). Zara 2.0. Retrieved May 18, 2012, from Fashiondex: http://www.fashiondex.com/howtos/Zara_2.php Company - zara united states. (2010). Retrieved from http://www.zara.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/category/us/en/zara-usS2012/11112/Company Case Study Zara. (n.d.). Scribd. Retrieved May 1, 2012, from http://www.scribd.com/doc/20559313/Case-Study-Zara Heimler, R. (n.d.). Competetive Advantage Lecture. BlackBoard. Retrieved May 1, 2012, from https://blackboard.csupomona.edu/webapps/portal/frameset.jsp?tab_tab_group_id=_2_1 &url=%2Fwebapps%2Fblackboard%2Fexecute%2Flauncher%3Ftype%3DCourse%26id% 3D_62249_1%26url%3D Inditex. (2011, June). Inditex: Annual report 2010. Retrieved May 1, 2012 from http://www.inditex.com/en/downloads/Annual_Report_INDITEX_10.pdf Inditex. (2012). Inditex: Who we are. Retrieved May 1, 2012 from http://www.inditex.com/en/ Inditex. (2011) Join fashion: Inditex. Retrieved May 1, 2012 from https://www.joinfashioninditex.com/joinfashion/ Pearson, A. (2011). The Story of Zara –the Speeding Bullet. Retrieved May 18, 2012, from Unique Business Strategies: www.uniquebusinessstrategies.co.uk/pdfs/.../zarathespeedingbullet.pdf