FUNDAMENTALS OF
HAIR CUTTING
PRINICPLES
What is the definition of a principle?
A PRINCIPLE is a fundamental law or
assumption about how something works.
Ex: Rules to a game
There are 6 principles in hair
cutting:
•
•
•
•
•
•
Perspective
Dimension
Distribution of Weight
Elevation
Over-Direction
Body Position
Lets explore each one in depth
1. PERSPECTIVE
Perspective is a technique of drawing a
representation of something on a flat surface,
so that it appears to have depth and distance.
There are 2 perspective:
• Vertical
• Horizontal
VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL
PERSPECTIVE
VERTICAL:
• Consists of the profile, facial features, front,
sides and back of the head.
• Used to check for balance and symmetry and
how high to lift the hair
HORIZONTAL:
• Aerial view: shows the shape of the hair cut
when all the hair is lifted straight out from the
head.
• Referred to as a “bird’s eye view”
2. DIMENSION
Refers to the properties of an object in terms of
• Height
• Width
• Depth
Looking at an object with both vertical and
horizontal perspective.
Vertical perspective = height = elevation
Horizontal perspective = width = over-direction
Depth = Length of hair
• Can be short, medium and long
3. DISTRIBUTION OF
WEIGHT
Weight can be distributed upward or
downward depending on your elevation.
Weight can also be distributed forward or
backward depending on over-direction
Characteristics of hair such as (i) texture and
(ii) density of the hair could also effect the
distribution of weight.
4. ELEVATION
Elevation is the lifting of hair from its natural fall
or position on the head.
Elevation = Distribution of weight upward or
downward = Technique
There are 3 techniques:
• One Length
• Graduation
• Layers
One Length
This technique uses
• 0 degree or minimal elevation
• keeps maximum weight at the bottom of the
hair (perimeter).
• All lengths finish at the same plane
Graduation
This technique uses
• 1°- 89° of elevation
• builds weight
• Hair is longer toward the top with shorter
pieces at the bottom.
Layers
This technique uses
• 90° and above elevation
• removes weight with shorter pieces at the
top and longer at the bottom
5. OVER-DIRECTION
Over-direction
• the moving of the hair from its natural fall
• distributing weight side to side as well as
forward and backward.
• Shape is viewed from a birds eye view.
Over-direction = Distributing Weight
Froward or Backward or Evenly = Shape
Distance = Length
There are 3 shapes: Round, Triangular and
Square
Round
• This shape is shorter in the front and longer
in the back.
• Weight is distributed backward
• Over-directing the hair forward from its
natural position.
• Hair cut begins at the front of the head
Triangle
• This shape is longer in the front and shorter in
the back
• Weight is distributed forward
• Over-directing the hair backward from its
natural position
• Hair cut begins at the back
Square
• This shape appears to have even lengths on
all sides
• Weight is distributed evenly
• Over-directing the hair both forward and
backward from its natural position.
• Hair cut begins at the flatter parts of the head
(sides, back or top)
6. BODY POSITION
Upper body
• Arm and hands
• Elevation which controls technique
Elevation = Technique = Upper Body Position
Lower body
• Where and how you stand as well as move
around the guest.
• Controlled by your feet.
Over-direction = Shape = Lower body position
Upper Body Positions
Finger angle: This should mirror your sub-section
angle
Cutting Below the Finger: Used for control when
cutting a one length below the shoulder. Low
elevation
Cutting Over the Fingers: Used for greater control when
elevating hair in the upper portion of the head.
Palm to Palm: For control when working on the lower
half of the head. Used with graduation , layering and
shorter lengths
Tension: Amount of pressure used when
holding or stretching the hair.
Lower Body Position
First Position
• Straight with your feet hip width apart
• knees should be slightly bent and your weight
centered.
• Shoulders should be relaxed and away from your ears.
• Stand with the section you are working on in front of
you
The Lunge Position
• Lower your body while keeping your back straight
• Lower your perspective to observe the cutting line
• Used with one length above the shoulder
• Non dominant leg in front with a slight bend at the
knee; dominant leg thrust backward with foot
turned out slightly
• Weight is distributed evenly between both legs
Crossover One:
• Stand on a diagonal with feet slightly wider than
shoulder width apart
• Your upper body will be straight
• Shoulders should be relaxed and away from your ears
• Best position to cut will be to shift your weight to your
non-dominant leg bending your knee.
Crossover Two:
• Shift your non dominate leg across your body so
that it is in front of your dominate leg
• Stand on a diagonal
• Adjust the foot on your dominant leg so that you are
balanced, and your weight is distributed evenly
The Step:
• Maintain consistency on either side of the head
• This position is primarily used with longer lengths
• One foot remains stationary while the other steps out
How the PRINCIPLES all related
Vertical Perspective
=
Technique
=
Height
=
Distribution of Weight Upward or Downward
=
Elevation
=
Upper Body Position
How the PRINCIPLES all related
Horizontal Perspective
=
Shape
=
Width
=
Distribution of Weight Forward or Backward
=
Over-direction
=
Lower Body Position