ART AND SCIENCE OF HAIR COLOR
OBJECTIVES
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What is COLOR? Law of Color
Color Wheel: Basic Color Theory
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Identifying Existing Hair color
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Understanding Natural Pigment
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The Level System/ 7 Stages of Enlightening
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Haircolor Chemistry/ Types of Haircolor
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Analysis/ Hair Color Consultation
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Aveda Applications
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Aveda Full Spectrum Hair Color/Aveda
Enlightenment Blonding
Foiling Techniques/Dimensional Color
Placement

Color surrounds us, interacts with our bodies and energies, affects our moods and makes things appear warm or cool, exciting or calming.
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It was Sir Isaac Newton who, in the 17 th century discovered that the white light from sun contains all the colors we see. He proved this by separating the colors of the rainbow through a glass prism.
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The first theory of color is that white is the combination of all colors in the light spectrum reflected.
Conversely, black is a combination of all colors in the light spectrum absorbed.

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A system for understanding color relationships.
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When combining colors you will always get the same result from the same combination.

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Primary Colors
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Blue
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Red
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Yellow
Secondary Colors
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Orange
Green
Violet

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Tertiary Colors
Red /Orange
Yellow /Orange
Yellow /Green
Blue /Green
Blue /Violet
Red /Violet

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Warm Colors-
R R/O O Y/O Y
Neutral Color-
R/V Y/G
Cool Colors-
V B/V B B/G G

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Colors positioned opposite each other on color wheel
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Neutralize each other
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Primary missing
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All three primary colors when mixed will also create a shade of brown page1
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Intensity of Tone
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The brightness, vividness or the strength of a color tone
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Can be strong, medium, mild

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By realizing the saturation of blue , red , yellow will determine the darkness of the color.
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Hair Color can be described in two ways: level (darkness or lightness) tone (the characteristic of color) page1
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Level
refers to the depth of color according to the natural lightness and darkness of the hair.
• it also refers to the measurement of lightness or darkness that can be achieved with permanent hair color.
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Color ranges from Level 1(black) to a Level 10(lightest blonde)
**11/12 Hi Lift Blondes page
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• When using hair color to lift the level, tones can be selected to change the characteristic of the shade.
• Tone :: Natural, ash, gold, copper, red, red/violet, red
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Adding tones can also make lift appear different.
Warm tones reflect more light and may appear slightly lighter.
Cool tones absorb the light and may make the lift appear slightly darker.
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The Cuticle is the outer layer of the Hair
The Medulla is the tubular core at the center of the hair shaft and often absent in hair strands.
The cortex is the middle layer.
It is the largest and most important part of the hair. It is inside of the cortex of each hair strand that nature creates natural hair coloring with a substance called
Melanin.
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Hair is composed of a protein called
Keratin
It is found throughout all three layers of the hair strand
TRICHOLOGY REVIEW
Melanocytes- pigment producing cells
Melanosomes- protein packets that surround melanin
Melanin- pigment you are born with

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Eu melanin:
 The natural black to deep red pigment which gives dark color to the hair
Pheo melanin
:
 The natural red to pale yellow pigment which gives light color to the hair
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 Mixed Melanin - Both types are present in one melanin granule
The Natural color of the hair is determined by:
Type of Melanin
Amount of Melanin
How closely packed or scattered the melanin is within the cortex

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Granular colors (black and brown) lift quickly and easily because they are bigger and fewer (Eumelanin)
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Diffused colors (red and yellow) lift slowly because they are smaller and more concentrated (Pheomelanin)
NATURAL MELANIN +ARTIFICIAL PIGMENT=
FINAL COLOR RESULTS page1
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Canities is the absence of pigment in hair due to age or congenital conditions.
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Amount on non pigmented hair on guests head is usually described in percentages: 25%
50% 75%
• referred to as “resistant” to color because it may have up to 24 layers of page cuticle (pigmented has less
15 than 10 layers)

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Sub-caterory to
Pheomelanin in natural sandy-red hair
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Responsible for natural strawberry blonde shades
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Contain more red than yellow-more difficult to lighten to pale yellow page
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*Hair at
Scalp Area is softer in texture than keratinized hair in mid and ends.
*The heat from the scalp affects product
*Refer to correct product application

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Texture is determined by the diameter of the individual hair strand. Melanin is distributed differently within the different
• textures.
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Fine- takes color faster
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Medium
Density is the number of hairs per square inch and can range from thick to thin.

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Porosity is the ability to absorb liquid.
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High- cuticle is lifted and the hair takes color quickly but also may fade easily
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Average- slightly raised cuticle will process at average amount of time
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Low- tighter cuticle, hair is resistant, and requires longer processing time

When hydrogen peroxide is mixed with an alkaline substance like hair color or bleach and is applied to the hair, a chemical reaction occurs called oxidation.
The peroxide begins to change the melanin structure by breaking the granules into tiny fragments that are no longer able to absorb light to the same degree.

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Chemistry of Hydrogen Peroxide
Performs two
Hydrogen peroxide + ammonia :: opens cuticle and lightens the natural haircolor by reacting with melanin and breaking it up
*The longer the lightening substance remains in contact with the hair, the more the melanin is changed.
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Hydrogen peroxide + hair color molecules :: oxidizing hair color molecules to the selected shades page
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3% =10 volume
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6% =20 volume
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9% =30 volume
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12% =40 volume page3
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Stages of Lightening
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As the hair is decolorized(whether the lifting process is chemical or caused by the sun), it will move through seven specific stages of lift depending on the natural starting level
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Black, brown, red, red/orange, orange, yellow, and pale yellow
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The amount of change depends on how much pigment the hair has and the length of time the lightening product is processed page1
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The Seven Stages of Lightening/10 Degrees of Decolorization
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During the Decolorization process, there are only 7 stages of lightening that our eye will detect.
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Decolorizing the hair to one of the seven stages exposes the
Natural Remaining Pigment (NRP) for the final result.
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The Hair color exposes 10 Degrees of Decolorization

When permanent hair color is used, it is important to identify the N.R.P. at each of the 10 levels.
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10 Lightest Blonde
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9 Very Light Blonde
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8 Light Blonde
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7 Medium Blonde
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6 Dark Blonde
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5 Lightest Brown
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4 Light Brown
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3 Medium Brown
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2 Dark Brown
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1 Black
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Pale Yellow
Yellow
Yellow/Orang e
Orange
Red/Orange
Red
Red
Red
Red
Red
**Hair will not lift to each new level in equal amounts of time- due to makeup of diffused pigment the lifting process slows down when lifting red and yellow page1
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N.R.P. is the tonal value that that hair contributes as it lightens.
It is important to determine the
N.R.P. the hair will contribute at the desired level, prior to coloring the hair.
Once it’s identified, you must determine whether you want to enhance or neutralize the N.
R. P. and select your shade accordingly.

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Temporary Color
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Pre-Formed (direct dyes), that penetrate only the cuticle layer of the hair shaft
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Come in different forms (rinses, aerosols, gels, color shampoos)
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Typically last from one shampoo to the next

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3 Semi-Permanent Color
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Direct dyes that are relatively small molecules which, in the proper base, can penetrate into the hair fiber sufficiently well to resist immediate shampooing
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No chemical change to the hair since peroxide and ammonia are not used
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Duration is approximately 4-6 shampoos

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Demi-Permanent Color
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Oxidizing (indirect)dyes
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Similar to permanent hair color dyes as they need to be mixed with a developer in order to create the shade
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Often contain no ammonia and are not designed to lighten the natural hair color
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Duration is generally 4-6 weeks depending on the hair’s porosity

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Permanent Color
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Lightens
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Darkens (covers grey)
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Changes Tone
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Oxidizing hair color that contains ammonia which performs two actions taking place simultaneously
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Lightens the hair’s natural pigment revealing the N.R. P.
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Color dyes develop inside the cortex of the hair and in conjunction with the N.R.P. create the new hair color
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Designed to be re-touched every 4-6 weeks

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LIGHTENERS are used to remove or diffuse melanin.
• can be available in on scalp / off scalp formulas
Contributing pigment is pigment that lies under the natural hair color and must be taken into consideration when selecting a haircolor

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Vegetable Hair Color- Henna
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Metallic Hair color- Grecian Formula
To test for Metal Salts=20 drops water +1 drop 28% Ammonia

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Perception is important in hair color
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85% of your success in the field of cosmetology is a result of your personal attributes such as your personal image, your goal orientation and very importantly, your ability to communicate effectively. page
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most important part of color service
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GREET
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OBSERV
E
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LISTEN
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SUGGES
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CONFIR pag
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Analysis / Guest Natural Attributes
Identification of color: PORTFOLIO
Hair’s Natural Color
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When determining the color formulation the base/natural color needs to be considered nape to crown to hairline and also from the scalp through the ends page
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To determine natural level you must:
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Take a ½ inch square section in the crown area and hold it up from the scalp.
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Use a natural level finder swatch that matches the hair
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Move the swatch from the scalp area along the hair strand
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Determine the natural hair color level

Analysis / Guest Natural Attributes
Complexion and Eye Color
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WARM PEOPLE =WARM TONES / COOL PEOPLE =COOL TONE
*see COLOR HARMONY Chart page 21
Fair-Medium Warm (yellow)
Medium-Deep warm (orange)
Fair-Medium (pink)
Medium-Deep (olive)
*Use caution when selecting appropriate hair color, especially when the color is a whole head color rather than a highlight or lowlight. When performing dimensional color, you have the option of adding more colors that would not be flattering if all the hair were colored that shade.
**For Natural Looking Results Encourage Guests to color within 1-2 levels
***For Avant Garde all rules can be broken page2
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Analysis / Guest Natural Attributes
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Most colors chosen for mature clients are lighter and softer; women who were colored level 1n at 35 may not wish to maintain it at
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Complexion becomes lighter with age and the tissue around the eyes become darker. Hair color should look good on the client at his/her current age page2
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Analysis / Guest Natural Attributes
Lighting
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The lighting in the salon area should ideally be natural or non-florescent. If the client will be in a specific type of light, your color choice may reflect that.
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Example: people who work under florescent lights may want their hair color to be a bit warmer to compensate for the cool tone of the that lighting

Analysis / Guest Natural Attributes
Maintenance and Upkeep:
How often does the client want a retouch? or color change?
HISTORY OF PREVIOUS
HAIRCOLOR
Guest Status:
New/Regular Guest:: Like and dislikes related to past services?
Do they want to change their color formula or service type?
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COLOR
BLUEPRINT
Analysis
History of Previous hair color
Desired Result
Pre work
Formula
Application
Processing Time
Home Maintenance page
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Analyze the condition of the hair.
Ask questions to determine the guest’s hair color history
Ask questions to establish the guest’s desired result
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Establish a price before beginning the hair color service
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Give the guest a timeframe for the initial service, as well as schedule future appointments
6.
Recommend Aveda products for home maintenance

Hair Color Cautions
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ASSESSMENT of hair condition
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HAIR HISTORY products used, services performed, how often shampooed and conditioned, how hair is styled, chlorine and sun exposure
*recommend services for deep cleansing or conditioning page
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Hair Color Cautions
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?? ESSENTIAL
QUESTIONS ??
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Have you ever experienced any scalp/skin irritation from previous chemical services?
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What chemical services have you had and when?
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What type of hair color services have you had and when?
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How well does color last in your hair?
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How do you plan to style your hair?
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Do you swim in a pool?
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Do you wash you’re hair in water that has sustantial amount of minerals in it?

Hair Color Cautions
Approach with extreme caution hair that has been treated with any of the following
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Ammonium Thioglycolate
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Sodium Hydroxide
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Calcium Hydroxide
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Potassium Hydroxide
Because hydroxide relaxer and lightener (bleach) are both strong alkalis with ph levels over 10.0, applying either of them to hair treated with the other will cause severe damage and porosity
**Use extreme caution on bleached or lightened color that has severe breakage

GUEST COMFORT AND PROTECTION: apply Barrier Cream (Anti-
Humectant/All Sensitive Composition) to hairline, this is used to protect guests skin from absorbing hair color
*Always perform Strand Test to ensure desired end result. This enables us to monitor color development and avoid potential problems.(also to see how non aveda color might react with Aveda)

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6.
Consultation
Formulation
Mixing
Application
Processing
Removal
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point of distribution and from the center of the hairline to center of nape.
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Secure each section
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Starting at the nape area take 1/4”-1/8” diagonal partings and liberally apply the formula to the new growth area and porous ends after the midlengths have been brought up to ½ the desired shade
MIDSTRAND TO ENDS THEN
BASE

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Areas on the head that are more resistant to lightening are
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Center front hairline
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Front of the ears
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Nape Area
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Areas on the head where hair is fine will lighten more easily are
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Crown
• temples

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Double process blonde is a technique used to create toned results
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Use Enlightener in a virgin lighter application
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Use Full Spectrum Haircolor Permanent or Deposit- Only, as a TONER
* TOWEL DRY THOROUGHLY/ APPLY EQUALIZING SOLUTION

• Instead of traditional virgin lighter application, a higher volume of developer(10 volume higher) is applied to mid-length to porous ends. This ensure even lifting of both the scalp area and the midlengths, and can be applied at the same time.

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Divide hair into 4 sections from ear to ear, over point of distribution and from the center of the hairline to center of nape.
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Secure each section.
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Outline quadrant with product.
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Starting at the nape area take 1/4” diagonal partings and liberally apply the formula to the new growth area on both sides of parting through the
ENDS

apply to New Growth- the growth of hair after a color service.
Hair Color Balancing
Refreshcolor has lost tone and up to one-level.
After hair color is completed processing wet hair with hot water
Emulsify color through hair for 2-5 minutes. Shampoo.
*It is recommended that you retouch and refresh every 4-6 weeks
Retouch Reestablishcolor has lost tone and1-2 levels.
Apply hair color to mid-lengths and ends after retouch. Can remix desired shade with 10 volume or deposit-only formula.
BASE

COLOR
BLUEPRINT

1. Analyze Hair Condition
2. Hair Color History
3. Realistic Desired Result
4. Establish Service Price
5. Maintenance/Time Schedule
6. Home Maintenance

A cut or style can be compared to the foundations of a tall building. Without this solid, underlying framework, the building would collapse. Before embarking upon a style, it is important to step back and evaluate your subject. A three-dimensional space, similar to a jigsaw puzzle of interlocking shapes, colors, and tones, will add up to a balanced design.

What factors would you consider when selecting a haircut?
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Face Shape
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Head Shape
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Thickness of hair
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Texture of hair
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Growth Patterns
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Hairline
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Styling Techniques
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Maintenance

“What factors would you consider when selecting a hair color placement?”
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Face Shape
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Head Shape
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Thickness of hair
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Texture of hair
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Growth Patterns
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Hairline
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Styling Techniques
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Maintenance

All of these factors will help you determine the type of application for color placement or customized hair color —how many foils to use, how many panels the hair is sectioned into, whether you weave or slice, how thick the weaves or slices would be, or how to use a more creative approach.

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PANELS:
Sections that the hair is parted into on the head
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PARTINGS:
Sub-Sections that are taken from panels and are then woven or sliced to create highlights
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DENSITY:
Number of foils that are in each panel

30% or less of the hair in each panel is highlighted in foil
Partings are ½” apart.
Section of hair left uncolored between each foil would be appx. ½” to 1”
MEDIUM DENSITY
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50% of the hair in each panel is highlighted in foil.
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Partings are ¼” to ½” apart
HEAVY DENSITY
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70% of the hair in each panel is highlighted in foil
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Partings are 1/8” to ¼” apart

Weaving Effects:
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Fine Effect
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achieved with 10-12 weaves per parting
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Medium Effect
achieved with 6-8 weaves per parting
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Strong Effect
achieved with 2-3 weaves per parting
Always brick lay pattern

Slicing Effect
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A fine effect in slicing is achieved by parting off a fine slice of hair to be colored within the foil. Placement of the next slice is determined by the density desired
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A medium effect is achieved by taking
2 slices in a row, placing each slice to be colored in a foil back to back, before leaving hair out between the foils to be left uncolored
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A strong effect is achieved by taking 3 slices in a row, placing each slice in foil back to back leaving hair out between the next set of foils

add triangle/circle

Analysis
History of Previous hair color
Desired Result
Pre work
Formula
Application
Processing Time

Dawn
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Daybreak
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Sunrise
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Daylight
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Sunset
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Twilight
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Dusk
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Eclipse

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DAWN
Violet Base levels 6 & above
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Extra Light
Platinum
Blonde

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DAYBREA
K
Dark Violet base levels 6
& above
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Extra Light
Natural Blonde

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SUNRIS
E
R/V Base levels 6 & above
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Extra Light
Beige
Blonde

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DAYLIGH
T
Y/O Base levels 6 & above
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Extra Light
Golden
Blonde

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SUNSET
Orange
Yellow Base
6 & above
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Extra Light
Copper
Blonde

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TWILIGHT
Violet Yellow
Base 6 & above
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Extra Light Ash
Beige Blonde

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DUSK
Blue Violet
Base levels 5-7
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Extra Light
Ash
Blonde

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Eclipse
Blue Base levels 4-6
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Extra Light
Intense Ash
Blonde