COLOUR AND
LIGHTEN HAIR
GOLDWELL PROFESSIONAL
THEORY WORKSHOP
COLOURANCE
DEMI-PERMANENT
• Acidic pH of 6.8 – no damage to hair
• Doesn’t contain ammonia
• Provides service between a semi and permanent
colour
• Colour balancing to equalize colour fading on midlengths and ends
• Can be applied the same day as a perming service
• Mild oxidising agent of 1.3%
• Does not cover grey’s although up to 70%
coverage using the 4 natural intensifiers
COLOURANCE
MIXING RATIOS
Colourance Acid Colour is activated by
adding Colourance Lotion
Mixing ratio is 2:1
40mls Colourance Lotion
plus
20mls Colour
Lotion is always measured first and then
colour is added.
MIXING COLOURANCE
FOR GREY COVERAGE
• To achieve the best
possible grey coverage ‘N’
shade MUST be used
Percentage of Amount of ‘N’
white
series
Amount of
target shade
Up to 30%
5mls
15mls
30 – 50%
10mls
10mls
TOPCHIC
Permanent Hair Colour
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Unique cream/gel consistency easy to mix & apply
Over 100 pre0mixed shades
7 High lift shades
2 Blonding creams for pre-lightening
Intense reds and coppers
NN series for optimum grey coverage
Number and letter system
Can be used with 3% 6% 9% & 12%
TOPCHIC
MIXING RATIOS
Mixing ratio is 1:1 level 2 -10
40mls Hydrogen Peroxide
plus
40mls Colour
Processing times up to 45mins
TOPCHIC
MIXING RATIOS
Mixing ratio is 2:1 (11 series)
40mls Hydrogen Peroxide
plus
20mls Colour
Processing times up to 45mins
Special series for grey coverage
full Head Application (short)
% of white
Amount of
‘N’ or ‘NN’
series
Amount of
target shade
Total amount
Up to 30%
15mls
25mls
40mls
30-60%
20mls
20mls
40mls
60-100%
25mls
15mls
40mls
Re-touch application
(4-6 weeks later)
% of white
Amount of ‘N’
or ‘NN’
series
Amount of
target shade
Total amount
Up to 30%
8mls
12mls
20mls
30-60%
10mls
10mls
20mls
60-100%
12mls
8mls
20mls
TOPCHIC LOTION
Topchic lotion strength
Usage Guide
3% - 10 vol
•Toning after pre-lightening
•Colour correction
•Adding depth
6% -20 vol
•Tone on tone –same level
•Lightening up to 1 level
•Optimum grey coverage
•Oxycur platin (on-scalp bleach)
9% - 30 vol
•Colouring up to 2 levels lighter
•Oxycur platin (off-scalp bleach)
12% - 40 vol
•Colouring up to 3 levels lighter
•Colouring up to 4 levels lighter
(11 series)
GOLDWELL LEVEL SYSTEM 2-10
SERIES (DEPOSIT COLOURS)
LEVEL
DESCRIPTION
2
Black
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
Dark Brown
Medium Brown
Light Brown
Dark Blonde
Medium Blonde
Light Blonde
Very Light Blonde
Extra Light Blonde
OVERVIEW – GOLDWELL
TONES AND REFLECTS
N
NN
NA
A
P
NP
G
GK
GB
KN
KB
B
NATURAL
NATURAL EXTRA
NATURAL ASH
ASH
PEARL
NATURAL PEARL
GOLD
GOLD COPPER
GOLD BEIGE
COPPER NATURAL
COPPER BEIGE
BROWM/BEIGE
BN
BK
BG
RB
K
KG
KR
OR
RG
R
RK
VR
V
BEIGE NATURAL
BROWN COPPER
BROWN GOLD
RED BROWN
COPPER
COPPER GOLD
COPPER RED
ORANGE RED
RED GOLD
RED
RED COPPER
VIOLET RED
VIOLET
MIX TONE SERIES
Special mix tones are concentrated shades that are added to
customize formulas. Mix tones enhance and intensify
fashion shades (warmth) or provide additional controlled
drabbing (coolness) to other shades.
A Mix: to be added to shades level 2-6 for dark drabbing
P Mix: added to shade levels 7-10 & 11 for light drabbing
GG Mix: to enhance the G,GK,B,GB,OG,K and KG in level 7 or
lighter. Gold enhancer.
KK Mix: to enhance the K,KB,KG,KR,GK,OR and RK in levels 6 and
lighter. Copper enhancer
RR Mix: to enrich the R and RK series on all levels. Red enhancer
VV Mix: a warm, violet concentrate for adding into shades 4V,5V,6V
and the VR shades.
THE 11 SERIES HIGHLIFT
MATRIX
1. Determine the natural level
2. Choose the type of blonde result
you wish to recommend, using the
colour chart
3. Confirm target shade with client
4. All results shown have been
performed with 12% (40vol) to show
maximum lightness achievable
SELECTION OF TOPCHIC LOTION:
11 SERIES HIGHLIFTING
LEVELS OF LIGHTENING
REQUIRED
TOPCH IC-LOTION
2-3 SHADES LIGHTER THAN
NATURAL BASE SHADE
9% (30vol)
3-4 SHADES LIGHTER THAN
NATURAL BASE SHADE
12% (40vol)
COLOUR BALANCING WITH COLOURANCE
SITUATION
CASE 1
CASE 2
Regrowth natural
base shade
4N approx 1cm
5N approx 1cm
Existing shade
6K
8R
Target shade
6K
6R
Regrowth formula
20ml 6% +20ml 6K
topchic (25mins)
20mls 6% + 20ml
6R topchic (5mins)
Mids & ends
formula
Colourance 6K
(5mins)
Colourance 6R
(25mins)
Goldwell colour case studies
Base level
Reflect
%white
Exsisting level
Exsisting reflect
Targetshade
Texture
Porosity
Formula:
5
Red
50%
7
copper
6RB
Fine
Porous
Base level
Reflect
%white
Exsisting level
Exsisting reflect
Targetshade
Texture
Porosity
Formula:
7
orange
20%
7
copper
9GB
Med
Porous
Base level
Reflect
%white
Exsisting level
Exsisting reflect
Targetshade
Texture
Porosity
Formula:
2
red
70%
4
red
4N
course
Resistant
Base level
Reflect
%white
Exsisting level
Exsisting reflect
Targetshade
Texture
Porosity
Formula:
6
yellow
95%
8
Gold
6B
Med
Normal
Base level
Reflect
%white
Exsisting level
Exsisting reflect
Targetshade
Texture
Porosity
Formula:
4
red
60%
7
Gold
7NA
Med
Resistant