Haircoloring
Copyright 2013 © SAP
HAIRCOLOR SERVICES
• Haircoloring includes the following processes:
–
Depositing color on natural hair color
–
Depositing color on previously colored hair
–
Depositing color on hair that has been lightened
–
Lightening and depositing color in one step
• Hair lightening or decolorizing involves diffusing natural
or artificial color from hair.
• It is important for you to understand the principles of the
color wheel, color theory, and color levels.
WHY PEOPLE COLOR THEIR
HAIR
 To cover up gray hair
 To enhance an existing hair color
 To create a fashion statement or self-expression
 To correct unwanted tones
 To accentuate a particular haircut
COLOR THEORY
 Color is a form of light energy.
 All the colors we can see are contained in
the visible spectrum of light.
THE LAW OF COLOR
 A system of
understanding color
relationships
 Primary colors
 Red
 Yellow
 Blue
Primary Colors
• Primary Colors are colors of the purest form. They are the
strongest and most influential pigments.
• Basic Color that cannot be created by combining other
colors.
• The three primary colors are: Blue, Yellow, Red
BLUE
• Primary colors are pure or fundamental colors that cannot be
achieved from a mixture.
• Predominance of blue results in cool-toned colors.
• Blue is the darkest primary color; it brings depth or darkness to
colors when it is added.
• BLUE is the darkest, most dominant and only cool primary
• When added to a color, BLUE will produce depth
• Blue has the largest molecular size and the heaviest pigment
weight
• BLUE is the closest to the cuticle layer and the easiest to
eliminate
Primary Colors
RED
• Predominance of red results in warm-toned colors.
• Red is the medium primary; when added to blue-based colors, it will
cause them to appear lighter; when added to yellow colors, it will
cause them to become darker.
• RED is a medium bright, warm primary that reflects more light than
any other color.
• It is the strongest of the warm primary colors
• When added to a color formula, RED produces richness.
• RED is positioned deeper in the hair shaft making it difficult to
remove.
• In order to eliminate, the hair shaft must be expanded wide enough
(and for long enough) for oxidation to affect the RED molecule.
Primary Colors
White
• Black has all three primary colors present in equal
proportions.
– “The presence of all colors”
– “Absorbs all light”
• White has none of the primary colors present.
– “Absence of all color”
– “Reflects all light”
Primary Colors
• YELLOW is the lightest and brightest warm primary.
• It’s the color used most frequently because it creates the
most highlighted dimensional effect
• When added to a color formula, YELLOW produces
brightness
• YELLOW is positioned deepest in the hair shaft making it
the most difficult to remove.
• Only way to eliminate YELLOW from the hair shaft is to
lighten the hair.
Yellow
• Yellow is the lightest primary color. When added to other
colors, they become lighter and brighter in appearance.
• Neutral brown has primary colors in the following
proportions:
• Blue (B)
• Red (RR)
• Yellow (YYY)
SECONDARY COLORS
• Mix equal parts of
two primary colors.
•Red + blue = violet
•Yellow + blue = green
•Red + yellow = orange
TERTIARY COLORS
• Mix a secondary color
with a neighboring
primary color in equal
amounts.
•
•
•
•
•
•
blue - green
blue - violet
red - violet
red - orange
yellow - orange
yellow - green
COMPLEMENTARY COLORS
• These neutralize each
other
• Understanding
complementary colors
helps you make
haircolor decisions to
accomplish your
desired goal.
• blue and orange
• red and green
• yellow and violet
Secondary Colors
• Secondary Colors are made by mixing equal parts of
primary colors.
• ORANGE comes from mixing RED and YELLOW and is the
strongest and only warm Secondary
• GREEN comes from mixing BLUE and YELLOW and is the
coolest toned Secondary
• VIOLET comes from mixing BLUE and RED and is a
medium cool Secondary
• These colors are less strong than primaries
Intermediate Colors
Complimentary Colors
Warm Colors
Cool Colors
Each primary’s opposite or compliment is a secondary color
When two complimentary colors are mixed, they neutralize each
other, creating a shade of brown
Complimentary Colors
Natural is made by mixing all 3 Primaries by weight
1 part BLUE + 2 parts RED + 3 parts YELLOW
HAIR FACTS
• The structure of the
hair will affect the
quality and ultimate
success of a
haircolor service.
• Cuticle
• Cortex
• Medulla
TEXTURE
 Fine hair pigment groups more
tightly; color deposited in fine hair
results in darker hair. Fine hair is less
resistant to hair lightening. A milder
bleach can be used.
 Medium texture hair has average
responses to haircolor products.
 Coarse hair has a large diameter and
can take longer to process. Coarse hair
has greater resistance to lighteners.
DENSITY
 The number of hairs
per square inch on
scalp
 Can be described as
sparse, moderate, or
thick
POROSITY
 This is the ability of the hair to
absorb moisture.
 Porous hair accepts haircolor faster
 Low porosity—the cuticle is tight.
 Average porosity—the cuticle is
slightly raised.
 High porosity—the cuticle is lifted.
Testing for porosity
NATURAL HAIR COLOR
• Identifying natural hair color is an
important step in becoming a good
hair colorist. Natural hair ranges
from black to dark brown to red,
and from dark blonde to light
blonde.
NATURAL HAIR COLOR
• Two types of melanin in the cortex
– Eumelanin is melanin that gives black and brown
color to hair.
– Pheomelanin is melanin that is found in red hair. Very
dark hair and most brunettes contain this pigment.
• Contributing pigment is the pigment in natural
hair color. The foundation of haircoloring is
based on modifying this pigment with haircolor
to create new pigment.
THE LEVEL SYSTEM
• Level is the unit of measurement
used to identify the lightness or
darkness of a color; also referred
to value or depth.
• Colorists use the Level System to
analyze the lightness or darkness
of a hair color.
• Levels are arranged on a scale of
1 to 10, with 1 being the darkest
and 10 being the lightest.
THE LEVEL SYSTEM
• Tone—describes the warmth or coolness of a color
– Warm tones are reds, oranges, yellows, auburn,
copper, gold, bronze, or honey
– Cool tones are blue, green, violet, ash, drab, smoky,
or platinum
• Intensity—refers to the strength of a color tone,
described as mild, medium, or strong
BASE COLORS
• A base color is the predominant tonality of an existing
color. It influences the final color result.
– Violet base color will deliver cool results and
minimize yellow.
– Blue base color will minimize orange tones.
– Red-orange base will create bright, warm results.
– Gold bases create gold haircolor from brunettes
to light blondes.
IDENTIFYING NATURAL
LEVEL AND TONE
• The color wheel
and haircolor
swatch books
are a great help
in identifying
natural hair color
levels.
IDENTIFYING NATURAL
LEVEL AND TONE
• Take a 2-inch square section in
crown and hold up from scalp;
allow light to pass through.
• Use swatches and find a match to
the hair.
• Move swatch from scalp to ends.
• Determine the natural color level.
TYPES OF HAIRCOLOR
• The term haircolor is a professional, industry-coined
term referring to artificial haircolor products and
services.
• Hair color (two words) is the color of hair created by
nature.
• There are four categories of haircolor:
–
–
–
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Temporary
Semipermanent
Demipermanent
Permanent
HAIR LIGHTENING
• Often referred to as “bleaching” or
“decolorizing”
• Diffuses natural or artificial color pigment
• Contains developer as the oxidizing agent
• Contains an alkalizing ingredient
– To open cuticle
– To facilitate the oxidation reaction
– To facilitate lightening action of peroxide
TEMPORARY COLOR
• Large molecules do not penetrate
cuticle.
• Color coats the shaft only; creates
a physical change in the hair.
• Process is good for neutralizing
unwanted tones.
• These are available in
– color rinses.
– colored mousses and gel.
– hair mascara.
– spray-on haircolor.
– color-enhancing shampoos.
Action of temporary haircolor
SEMIPERMANENT
HAIRCOLOR
• Lasts through several
shampoos
• Partially penetrate hair
shaft
• Diffuses out of hair during
shampooing
• No regrowth maintenance
• Formulated with ammonia
• Can be used right out of
the bottle
• After rinse, can be used to
prevent fading
Action of semipermanent haircolor
DEMIPERMANENT
HAIRCOLOR
• Is similar to semipermanent
but longer lasting
• Can penetrate hair shaft
• Is deposit-only; no lifting power
• Has smaller pigment
molecules
• Gives vivid color results
• Causes little to no damage
• Has low to no ammonia
• Is ideal for covering
unpigmented hair
• Requires a patch test
Action of demipermanent color
PERMANENT HAIRCOLOR
• Mixed with a developer and remains in the hair
permanently
• Best for covering gray hair
• Contains ammonia, oxidative tints, and peroxide
• Requires a patch test
• Contains aniline derivatives, very small compounds that
penetrate the hair shaft
PERMANENT HAIRCOLOR
• Aniline derivatives,
combined with H²0²,
penetrate the cortex
• Color cannot be
shampooed out
Permanent haircolor
molecules inside the cortex
• This simultaneously
removes natural
pigment while adding
artificial color.
HYDROGEN PEROXIDE
DEVELOPERS
• Oxidizing agents that, when mixed with an oxidative
haircolor, supply the oxygen gas to develop color
molecules and change hair color
• Also called oxidizing agents or catalysts
• Have an acidic pH between 2.5 and 4.5
• Hydrogen peroxide most common
• Volume of developers
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–
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10 (less lift)
20
30
40 (more lift)
NATURAL HAIRCOLORS
• Are also known as vegetable haircolors such
as henna
• Are obtained from the leaves or bark of plants
• Have no lifting power
• Can be messy and lengthy process
• Limited shades of black, chestnut, and auburn
• Are incompatible with many professional
chemical products
METALLIC HAIRCOLOR
• These are also called gradual colors or
progressive dyes.
• They contain metal salts
• Progressive buildup creates a dull,
metallic, unnatural appearance.
• They require daily application and
historically have been marketed to men
HAIR LIGHTENERS
• Chemical compounds lighten hair by dispersing,
dissolving, and decolorizing natural hair pigment.
• Hydrogen peroxide serves as the oxidizing agent and
begins to release oxygen when mixed with lightener.
• Purposes of lighteners are to
– lighten prior to a color application.
– lighten to a desired shade.
– brighten and lighten existing shade.
– lighten only certain parts of hair.
– lighten dark natural or color-treated levels.
HAIR LIGHTENERS
• Hair lighteners diffuse
pigment.
• The amount of change
depends on
– how much pigment is
in the hair.
– the strength of the
lightening product.
– the length of time it is
processed.
Hair lighteners diffuse pigment
TEN DEGREES OF
DECOLORIZATION
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Dark red/brown
Red/brown
Red
Red/orange
Orange
Orange/gold
Gold
Yellow/gold
Yellow
Pale yellow
CONTRIBUTION OF
UNDERLYING PIGMENT
• Lightening the hair to the
correct stage is essential to
a controlled, final
haircoloring result.
– The hair is decolorized to the
appropriate level.
– The new color is applied to
deposit the desired color. The
natural pigment remains in
hair and contributes to the
artificial color that is added.
Contributing undertones
TONERS
• Are semipermanent, demipermanent, and
permanent haircolor products used
primarily on prelightened hair to achieve a
pale, delicate color
• Are applied to the lightest degree of
contributing pigment after decolorizing
CAUTION
• Never lift past pale yellow stage to white
with lightener; this will cause excessive
damage to hair.
– Hair will become mushy.
– Hair will lose its elasticity.
– Hair will be harsh and brittle.
– Hair often suffers breakage and won’t accept
toner.
SUMMARY
• Haircoloring follows the Law of Color, a system of
understanding relationships of color.
• All colors are created from the three primaries.
• Three primaries can be mixed to create
secondary colors that can then be mixed with
adjacent primary colors to create tertiary colors.
SUMMARY
• Temporary colors are removed by shampooing.
• Semipermanent and demipermanent color lasts
longer than temporary, and bridges the gap to
permanent colors.
• The lasting ability of any hair product will be
directly affected by the hair’s porosity.
CLIENT CONSULTATION
• Book 15 minutes to introduce yourself; welcome client;
offer beverage; and ensure there are no interruptions.
• Have client complete an information card. Note the client’s
eye and skin color and condition, length, and the
percentage of gray in hair.
• Look directly at your client.
• Discuss hair history; ask leading questions such as:
– Are you looking for a temporary or permanent change?
– Are you taking medications? (Medical treatments for diabetes, high
blood pressure, and thyroid problems can affect outcome of color.)
CLIENT CONSULTATION
• Recommend two options; show pictures in
different ranges.
• Review procedure, cost, and maintenance.
• Be honest; don’t promise what you can’t deliver.
• Gain approval from client.
• Start the haircolor service.
• Follow through during the service by educating
the client about home care, products, and
rebooking for follow-up service.
• Fill out client record card.
RELEASE STATEMENT
• Used primarily to explain to
clients that if their hair is in
questionable condition, it may
not withstand the service
• Designed to protect the school
or salon
PATCH TEST
• The U.S. Federal Food, Drug,
and Cosmetic Act prescribes
a patch test to be given 24 to
48 hours prior to the
application of an aniline
derivative product to
determine if the client has
allergies or sensitivities.
• This is also called a
predisposition test.
CAUTION
• Never use aniline derivative tints on the
eyebrows or eyelashes.
• To do so may cause blindness.
• A positive patch test will show signs of
inflammation such as
– redness.
– slight rash.
– welt.
HAIRCOLOR
PROCEDURES
PRELIMINARY STRAND TEST
• Apply the haircolor
formula on a small
strand of hair to
determine how the
hair will react and
how long the
formula should
process.
TEMPORARY COLOR
PROCEDURE
• There are many methods of applying
temporary color, depending on the
product used.
• Follow your instructor’s and
manufacturer’s directions.
SEMIPERMANENT COLOR
• These are deposit-only.
• They have no lifting power.
• Remember that color applied on top of color always
creates a darker color.
• Porosity of the hair will determine how well the color will
“take.”
• Color will build up on the hair with each application.
• A strand test will determine your formula and processing
time.
DEMIPERMANENT COLOR
• Application procedure is similar to that of
semipermanent color.
• Neither of these colors alters the hair’s
natural melanin or produces lift.
• Follow manufacture’s directions for
application.
• Take into account the amount of gray hair
and whether the hair has previously been
colored (which affects its porosity).
PERMANENT COLOR
• Single process haircoloring lightens and colors
the hair in a single application.
• Virgin application means first time hair is tinted.
• Retouch application is done at the roots only.
• Most are formulated with 20 volume peroxide.
• Double-process coloring—known as doubleapplication or two-step coloring; hair is
prelightened before the color is added.
PERMANENT COLOR
• Four questions in formulating color
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–
–
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What is the natural level?
What is the client’s desired level and tone?
Are contributing pigments (undertones) revealed?
What colors should be mixed to get the desired
result?
• Shade and H²0² volume determine lifting ability.
MIXING PERMANENT COLOR
• Applicator bottle
– Large enough for color
and developer with
enough space for
mixing
• Brush and bowl
– Nonmetallic bowl
– Plastic tint brush
– Creamy consistency
DOUBLE-PROCESS
HAIRCOLOR
• For dramatically lighter color, prelighten hair.
• Hair must first be decolorized; then add
product to achieve desired color tone.
• To apply
– Prelighten hair.
– At desired level, shampoo, acidify, towel dry.
– Perform strand test; then apply color.
LIGHTENING
TECHNIQUES
THREE TYPES OF
LIGHTENERS
• Oil—“on the scalp”
• Cream—“on the scalp”
• Powder—“off the scalp”
ON-THE-SCALP LIGHTENERS
• Oil lighteners
– Mildest
– Appropriate for one or two levels of lift
• Cream lighteners
– Strong enough to do blonding
– Gentle enough to use on scalp
ON-THE-SCALP LIGHTENERS
• Cream lighteners
– Thickeners give more control during application.
– Overlapping can be prevented.
– They can be mixed with activators, boosters,
protinators, and accelerators.
– Up to three activators can be used for on-the-scalp
applications.
• An activator is an oxidizer added to
hydrogen peroxide to increase its chemical
reaction or lifting power.
OFF-THE-SCALP
LIGHTENERS
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Are not applied directly to scalp
Come in powder form
Are strong enough for blonding
Are also called quick lighteners
Contain boosters (oxygen released for quick action)
Dry out quickly; do not run or drip
Expand and spread out during processing
Used for foils, highlighting with caps, hair painting
TIME FACTORS FOR
PROCESSING
• Darker hair has more melanin; the more melanin, the
longer it takes to lighten.
• Porous hair lightens faster than nonporous hair.
• Tone influences timing; the greater percentage of red,
the more difficult it is to achieve the pale, delicate
shades of blonde.
• Stronger lighteners attain pale shades faster.
• Heat leads to quicker lightening.
• Preliminary strand test required.
CAUTION - When heat is used, it softens hair and makes it more fragile.
Excessive heat causes motion of molecules to become so great that
damage can occur as the cuticle layers are removed and the cortical
bonds are destroyed.
LIGHTENER RETOUCH
• Lighten new growth (regrowth) first.
• Apply product to new growth only.
• Cream lightener is generally used for a lightener
retouch as its consistency helps prevent overlapping.
Remember—Overlapping can cause severe breakage
and lines of demarcation, and cream lighteners are
gentler on the scalp. Consult client record cards for
information about prior formulas.
TONERS
• Toners require double-processing.
• Do not prelighten past the pale yellow
stage.
• Patch test is required 24 hours before
toner; to save time, strand test can be
performed at same time.
• Proceed with service if patch test is
negative.
SUMMARY
• The most important step in correct color selection is the
client consultation.
• You must develop effective listening skills in order to
ensure thorough and accurate communication between
yourself and the client.
• Properly analyze the hair and scalp.
• Perform the patch test.
• Record all information on the record card.
• Explain release statement to client.
• Strand testing is necessary to determine the hair’s
reaction to the color formula.
SPECIAL EFFECTS
HAIRCOLORING
SPECIAL EFFECTS
HAIRCOLORING
• This refers to any technique
that involves partially lightening
or coloring of the hair.
HIGHLIGHTING
• This is coloring some strands lighter
than the natural shade
• It adds illusion of sheen and depth.
• It does not usually contrast strongly with
natural color.
• Lighter colors advance to the eye to
appear larger.
• Details become more visible.
REVERSE HIGHLIGHTING
• This is also called
lowlighting.
• This is coloring strands
darker than natural color.
• Dark areas recede and
appear smaller.
• Details become less visible.
METHODS OF
HIGHLIGHTING
• Cap technique
– This involves pulling strands of hair through a
perforated cap with a thin plastic or metal hook.
– The number of strands pulled through cap
determines the degree of highlighting achieved.
• Foil technique
– Strands are sliced or weaved out of a section
– Placing foil in hair takes practice and discipline
– Foil patterns include face-frame, half-head, threequarter head, and full-head
CAP
METHOD
FOIL
METHOD
BALAYAGE OR FREE-FORM
TECHNIQUE
• This involves painting a
lightener directly onto
clean, styled hair.
• Lightener is applied with a
tint brush from scalp to
ends around head.
• Effects are subtle and used
to draw attention to the hair
surface.
TONING OVERHIGHLIGHTED AND
DIMENSIONALLY COLORED HAIR
• Hair that is highlighted may not need a toner; it
depends whether the desired tone is reached.
• If a cooler tone is desired, a toner will be required to
cancel out the yellow contributing pigment.
• To avoid affecting untreated hair; choose one of the
following:
– A nonoxidative toner that contains no ammonia
and requires no developer.
– A semipermanent color to deposit tone without lift
– A demipermanent color, which deposits tone, lasts
longer then semipermanent, and contains no
ammonia
HIGHLIGHTING SHAMPOO
TINTS
• Prepared by combining permanent haircolor, hydrogen
peroxide, and shampoo
• Used when a slight change is desired
• Used when client’s hair processes very rapidly
• Highlight natural color in a single application
• Require a patch test 24 hours prior to application
HIGHLIGHTING SHAMPOOS
• These are prepared by combining
shampoo and hydrogen peroxide.
• This mixture will slightly lighten the
natural hair color.
• No patch test is required.
SPECIAL PROBLEMS IN
HAIRCOLOR AND
CORRECTIVE COLORING
SPECIAL PROBLEMS IN
HAIRCOLOR
• Each service is unique and should be preceded
by a complete client consultation.
• Strand tests should be used to ensure more
satisfactory results.
• Occasionally, challenges do occur in haircolor.
Let’s take a look at a few you might
encounter…
CHALLENGES AND CAUSES
• Causes of yellow
dicoloration
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–
–
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Smoking
Medication
Sun exposure
Some styling aids
• Undesired yellow can often
be overpowered by applying
haircolor with a violet base of
an equal or darker level than
the yellow
• Gray hair
– Can turn orange
if lightener is not
processed long
enough
FORMULATING FOR GRAY
HAIR
•
•
•
•
Level 9 or lighter may not give complete coverage of
gray.
Levels 6, 7, or 8 can be used to create pastel and
blonde tones.
For 80% to 100% natural gray, the blonde range is
generally more flattering than a darker shade.
When coloring salt-and-pepper hair to darker, color on
color will make a darker shade; use a shade lighter than
the naturally dark hair.
OTHER CONSIDERATIONS WHEN
FORMULATING FOR GRAY HAIR
• Client personality
• Personal preferences
• Amount and location of gray hair
• If the majority of the client’s gray hair is located
in the front, that section may be 80% gray while
the remainder of the head may be only 30%
gray. That should be considered when
formulating color.
PRESOFTENING
• Gray hair can be highly resistant and
requires presoftening to allow proper
penetration of color.
• This is a double-application process:
– presoftener is applied, processed,
removed.
– Haircolor is applied.
RULES FOR EFFECTIVE
COLOR CORRECTION
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•
•
•
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•
•
Do not panic.
Establish the true problem.
Establish the cause of problem.
Establish a suitable remedy.
Take one step at a time.
Never guarantee exact results.
Always strand test for accuracy.
DAMAGED HAIR
CHARACTERISTICS
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•
•
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Rough texture
Overporous condition
Brittle and dry to touch
Susceptible to breakage
No elasticity
Becomes spongy and matted
when wet
• Color fades or absorbs too
rapidly
DAMAGE HAIR TREATMENTS
• Use a penetrating conditioner to deposit protein,
oils, and moisture-rich ingredients.
• Normalize pH with a finishing rinse.
• If hair is unresponsive after conditioning treatments,
postpone further chemical services and continue
treatments until hair is reconditioned.
• Schedule client for between-service conditioning.
• Recommend retail products for home maintenance.
FILLERS
• Specialized preparations designed to help equalize
porosity and deposit a base color in one application
• Two types:
– Conditioner fillers
• Are used to recondition damaged, overly porous hair
• Can be applied in separate procedure or immediately prior to
color application
– Color fillers
• May be demipermanent color used when there is doubt as to
even color results
COLOR FILLER ADVANTAGES
•
•
•
•
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Deposits color to faded ends
Helps hair hold color
Prevents streaking and dull appearance
Prevents off-color results
Produces more uniform, natural-looking
color in a tint
• Produces more uniform color when
doing a tint back
SELECTING CORRECT
COLOR FILLER
• Select to replace missing primary color in
formulation; all three primaries (yellow, red
and blue) must be present for naturallooking hair color
• Color fillers may be applied directly to hair
or mixed with tint and applied to damaged
ends.
TIPS FOR REDS
• Use low-volume hydrogen
peroxide.
• Prelighten darker hair to achieve
brighter, warmer reds.
• Formulate correctly for proper
intensity of red.
• In retouching, use permanent color
on new growth and refresh ends
with deposit-only color.
BRASSINESS/UNWANTED
TONES
• Analyze brassiness first.
• Are the brassy tones red, yellow, or orange?
• Locate that particular shade on the color wheel
and use the complementary color to neutralize
it.
• This can be done with temporary rinses, soap
caps during retouches, fillers, and
semipermanent or demipermanent colors.
TINT REMOVAL
• Sometimes, there is enough buildup of color on the
hair that removal of all or part of it may be necessary
to achieve the desired color.
• Professional products may contain ingredients to
diffuse pigment, both natural and artificial.
• They are sometimes mixed with hydrogen peroxide.
• Some are mixed with distilled water when milder
products are needed.
• Always follow manufacturers’ directions.
• Never leave client unattended during a chemical
service.
TINT BACK TO NATURAL
• Porosity must be evened out to achieve color
correction.
• Create warmth to prevent drab, unnatural
looking color.
• Demipermanent, deposit-only color is a great
choice.
• A soap cap is a combination of equal parts of
prepared tint and shampoo; apply like a regular
shampoo.
HAIRCOLORING SAFETY
• There are several factors and procedures you should keep
in mind when providing haircoloring services that will help
ensure quality results and your client’s safety.
• Administer patch test when using a aniline derivative tint.
• Do not apply if abrasions are present.
• Do not apply if metallic or compound tint is present.
• Do not brush hair prior to service.
• Read and follow manufacturers’ directions.
• Use sanitized applicator bottles, brushes, combs, and
towels.
• Drape client properly.
HAIRCOLORING SAFETY
• Perform strand test; this will alert you to correct color,
breakage, and/or discoloration.
• Use bottle or bowl for mixing tint; use either glass or a
plastic bowl.
• Do not mix until ready to use; discard leftover tint.
• Wear protective gloves.
• Don’t let color get in eyes.
• Do not overlap during retouch.
• Use mild shampoo.
• Always wash hands before and after serving each client.
SUMMARY
• The world of professional haircolor offers unlimited challenges
and significant financial returns.
• Once you’ve mastered the theory and Law of Color as well as all
the procedures and techniques, you may choose to specialize as
a colorist.
• All color begins with three primary colors.
• When two primaries are mixed equally, a secondary is created.
• All three primaries must be present to create brown.
• Categories of haircolor are temporary, semipermanent,
demipermanent, and permanent.
• Analyze the level of natural hair color as well as the color level
desired.
• When using an aniline derivative tint, a patch test must be given
24 hours prior to service.
SUMMARY
• Record all important information on the client’s record
card.
• Proper draping is essential to protect the client’s skin
and clothing.
• Frequent strand testing is recommended to ensure
quality results.
• We learned about special effects and procedures used
for highlighting hair.
• It is important to remember such factors as porosity,
foundation color, percentage and location of
unpigmented hair, condition of hair, and desired results.