Haircolor vs Hair Color
Chapter 19
A hair colorist needs to become an
expert in:
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______________ natural hair color
_____________ or ______________ gray
___________________ natural hair color
Depositing color on previously colored hair
(_______________)
• Depositing color on hair that has been
lightened (corrective)
• Creating ___________________
Why do people color their hair?
• Cover or blend gray
• Enhance existing haircolor
• Create a fashion statement of selfexpression
• Correct unwanted tones in hair caused by
environmental exposure such as sun or
chlorine
• Accentuate a particular haircut
Hair facts
• The ____________ of the client’s hair
______________________________
determined _____________________________
• The hair structure effects the quality and
ultimate success of haircolor service
• Some haircolor products may cause a dramatic
change in the structure of the hair, while others
cause little change or can help repair
• You must know how the products will effect the
hair in order to make the best choice for your
client
Hair structure:
TEXTURE & how it effects
haircolor
• Texture:
_________________________________
_________________________________
• Melanin granules in __________ are
grouped more tightly, so the hair
_________________________________
_________________________________
• _____________ texture hair has an
_______________________ to haircolor
• ______________ hair has a larger
diameter and ______________________
Hair structure:
Density & how it effects haircolor
• Density must be taken into account when
applying haircolor to ensure proper
coverage
• Density also ___________________ the
quantity of color or
_________________________________
_________________________________
Hair structure:
Porosity & how it effects haircolor
• Porous hair
______________________________________
______________________________________
• ______________________________________
and it is difficult for the moisture of chemicals to
penetrate and may require a
__________________________________
• Average porosity should take an average
amount of processing time and produce the best
results
• _____________________ means that the hair
is overly porous and
______________________________________
__________ – requires preconditioning or use
of a filler
Porosity Test
• Take a strand of sever hairs, hold the
strand securely with one hand and slide
the thumb and forefinger of the other hand
from the ends to the scalp
• If the hair feels smooth it has low porosity
• If the hair feels slightly rough it is average
• If the hair feels rough is has high porosity
Hair color
• _________________________________
• _________________________________
• Learning to identify a client’s natural hair
color is the _______________________
to becoming a good colorist
Hair color & Haircolor
• Are based on a _____________________
• Some manufacturers go as high as 12,
however if you are talking about hair color
it will always be based on 1-10
Melanin
• All hair has _____________ Eumelanin
and Pheomelanin.
• Eumelanin is ______________________
• Pheomelanin is ____________________
Contributing Pigment
• Is also called the ____________________
• It lies under the natural hair color and
must be taken into consideration when
you select a haircolor
• When you lighten hair you
_________________________________
_________________________________
Level system
• _________________________________
_________________________________
• Level is the
_________________________________
• Color names may vary from manufacturer
to manufacture however the degree of
lightness and darkness in each level will
remain the same
Tone
• _________________________________
_________________________________
• Tones are described as warm or cool
• _________________________________
• Warm tones = gold, copper, auburn, burnt
orange
• Cool tones= platinum, ash, drab, blue
How to read a haircolor box
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The number is the level 1-10
The letters mean:
n= __________________
r = red
rb = red brown
rv = _________________
ro = redorange
a= __________________
p = pearl / platinum
g = gold
k or c = kopper/copper
b= beige
gn = goldneutal
#’s 11 & 12 are always considered high lift series and act more like
bleach or hair lightener with some of the benefits of haircolor
Many times boxes now say 6.66 or 6.1 (the .1 = a or ash & the .6 = r or
red)
To determine natural level and tone
• Take a ½ in square section in the crown area
and hold it up from the scalp – allowing light to
pass through
• Using a _________________________, select
the swatch that matches the section of hair,
place it up against the hair, you are trying to
determine______________________________
______________________________________
• Move the swatch along the hair strand to
determine the natural level
Base color
• Is the
_________________________________
• Example: a haircolor with a violet base
color will deliver cool results and help
minimize unwanted yellow tones / or a
red-orange base will create the bright
warm results that some clients are looking
for
Law of color
• Primary colors:
__________________________
These colors can not be achieved from
mixing any other colors
• Secondary colors:
____________________________
These colors are achieved by
mixing___________________ colors
together in_____________ parts
Law of color continued
• Tertiary colors
Redorange – redviolet – yelloworange –
yellowgreen – bluegreen – blueviolet
These are created by
______________________________________
______________________________________
______________________________________
• Complimentary colors
______________________________________
______________________________________
______________________________________
example: Red + Green = Brown (Neutral)
Types of Haircolor
• 2 categories: _______________________
• Nonoxidative:
___________________________________
• Oxidative:
___________________________________
• Lighteners have a unique chemical
property and falls into its own category
Temporary haircolor
• Used to neutralize an unwanted tone
• ______________________________________
______________________________________
______________________________________
• ______________________________________
______________________________________
______________________________________
• Only _________________________________
• Color rinses, color mousses or gel, hair
mascara, spray on color, color enhancing
shampoos
Semipermanent
• _________________________________
_________________________________
• _________________________________
_________________________________
_________________________________
_________________________________
• Lasts
_________________________________
_________________________________
• It is ______________________________
• _________________________________
Demipermanent
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AKA ________________________________
____________________________________
____________________________________
Many use alkalizing agents other than traditional
ammonia however that does not necessary
make them any less damaging
Great for
______________________________________
______________________________________
______________________________________
______________________________________
Color correction or _______________________
Permanent
• _________________________________
_________________________________
• They are more alkaline than deposit only
• _________________________________
_________________________________
• Used to cover gray hair w/ 20vol
developer
Natural & metallic haircolors
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_________________________________
They coat the hairshaft
Shade ranges are limited
If this client was to come to the salon they
would be upset to find out that out
_________________________________
_________________________________
_________________________________
Hydrogen peroxide
• ___________________________
• ________________________________________
• Is an oxidizing agent – that supplies the necessary
oxygen gas to develop the color molecules and create a
change in natural hair color
• ____________________________________________
of hydrogen peroxide
• __________ the volume – ____________ lift,
____________ the volume – ___________ lift
• __________________ is used with permanent haircolor
to ________________________
Lighteners
• Lighten hair
_________________________________
_________________________________
• ___________________________ with
lightener, __________________________
• Oxidation occurs within the cortex of the
hair
• Used to create a light blond shade that is
not achievable with permanent haircolor
Decolorizing process
• ______________________________________
• The amount of change depends on:
1- _____________________________________
2- _____________________________________
3 – ____________________________________
• Allows the colorist to create the exact degree of
contributing pigment needed for the final result
• Lightening
______________________________________
______________________________________
CAUTION
• Lightening dark hair to a very pale blond is
______________________________________
• ________________________________ usually
will _________________________________
and will stretch without returning to its original
length
• When the hair is dry is feels brittle and harsh
• This type of hair often suffers breakage and has
difficulty accepting a toner properly
Toners
• _________________________________
_________________________________
_________________________________
_________________________________
_________________________________
_________________________________
Consultation
• Is the __________________________ of the
haircoloring service
• Hold the consultation in an area with proper lighting
• If possible the walls should be a neutral color
• Allow at least 15 minutes
• Have a client fill out a client information card and release
statement
• Ask leading questions:
are you looking for a temporary or permanent change?
do you want color all over or just a few highlights?
do you see yourself as conservative or dramatic?
Consultation Continued
• Recommend at least two different color options
• Review the procedure, application technique,
cost of service, and follow-up maintenance
• Be honest, let the client know what you can do
today and how many visits it will take to achieve
the final results
• Fill out the client’s record card with detailed
notes
• Avoid negative words – bleached, frosted, roots
CAUTION
• _________________________________
• In the consultation determine if the client
is taking any medication
• Usually medications for diabetes, high
blood pressure, and thyroid problems will
affect the outcome of color and most
chemical services
Selecting Haircolor
• There are four basic questions that must always
be asked when formulating a haircolor:
______________________________________
______________________________________
______________________________________
______________________________________
______________________________________
______________________________________
______________________________________
______________________________________
______________________________________
Selecting haircolor
• Always remember to
_________________________________
_________________________________
• _________________________________
_________________________________
_________________________________
_________________________________
• The volume of hydrogen peroxide mixed
with the haircolor product will also
influence the lift and deposit
Mixing permanent colors
• Method of mixing is determined by the type of
application that you are using as well as the
consistency of the product
• Applicator bottle – should be large enough to
hold both color and developer with enough
airspace to shake the bottle and blend the
mixture thoroughly
• Brush and Bowl – use a ___________________
mixing bowl, measure in developer, add color
and use applicator brush to stir the mixture until
blended
Color developer ratio
• 1:1 means for every one part of developer
you use one part color
• 2:1 means for every two parts of
developer your use one part color
• 2:1 is usually only used for high lift color,
and should never be used for gray
coverage
Patch test
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_____________________________________________
_____________________________________________
____________________________________________
_____________________________________________
_____________________________________________
• Mix a small amount of the color to be used and
_____________________________________________
_____________________________________________
_____________________________________________
, leave undisturbed for 24 – 48 hours. If there is no
swelling or redness then the test is negative a your can
proceed with the haircoloring service
CAUTION
• ____________________ dermatitis
or_________________ is the build up of
chemicals in the operators system
_________________________________
and repeatedly being exposed to
chemicals throughout the day
Strand Test
• Once you have created a formula try it first
on a small strand of hair
• This test
_________________________________
_________________________________
_________________________________
Hair color application - Temporary
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Drape client
Shampoo and towel dry hair
Put on gloves
Use an applicator bottle
Apply color and work around the entire head
Blend color with comb
DO NOT rinse hair
Towel blot and proceed with styling
Single process
• Lightens and deposits color in a single
application
• Examples are virgin application and
retouch application
• As the hair grows in you will need to
retouch the new growth to avoid a two
toned effect
• _________________________________
_________________________________
_________________________________
Single Process – _____Application
• Virgin application is __________________________ the
area
_____________________________________________
____________________________________________,
usually the temples or hairline
• Section the hair into quadrants
• Lift a _________ subsection and apply color to the midshaft area stay
_____________________________________________
_____________________________________________
• Go back an apply color to the scalp
• Pull the color through the ends of the hair
• After checking results, shampoo with warm water
• Remove any stains around the hairline
• Condition
• Towel dry and style
Single Process –
_____________application
• Section hair into quadrants
• ______________________________________
______________________________________
• Complete all four sides and set timer for manf.
Suggested processing time
• Prepare a no-lift deposit only glaze formula to
be applied mid shaft to ends
• ______________________________________
______________________________________
______________________________________
• Check results
• Shampoo, condition, and style
Double process haircolor
• _____________________________________________
_____________________________________________
_____________________________________________
• _____________________________________________
_____________________________________________
• Because the lightening action and the deposit of color
are independent of each other,
_____________________________________________
• During the prelightening you can create a perfect
foundation for a longer –lasting color that will be true to
tone
• The prelightener is applied in the same manner as a
regular hair lightening treatment, shampooed, and then
the demipermanent color is applied from scalp to ends
Lighteners
• 3 forms: _______________________________
• ________________________ are considered
___________________________________
• ______________ is considered
______________________________ lightener
• Cream and oil are the most popular because
they are easy to apply and are mild on the hair
• Cream and oil can also be used to
professionally lighten dark facial or body hair
Cream lighteners features and
benefits:
• agents give some protection to the hair
and scalp
• Thickeners give more control during
application process
• Because cream lighteners do not run or
drip overlapping is prevented during
retouching services
Powder lighteners:
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_________________
_________________
Stronger than cream
Can cause scalp irritation and should not be
applied directly to the scalp
• ______________________________________
_____________________________________
• ________________________________
• Most powder lighteners
______________________________________
______________________________________
______________________________________
Processing time for lightening is
affected by the following:
• The darker the natural hair color, the more melanin it has
, the longer it takes to lighten
• Amount of time needed is influenced by porosity
• Tone influences time to lighten natural hair, the greater
the % of red the more difficult it is to achieve the delicate
shades of pale blond
• Ash blonds are especially difficult to achieve because
the melanin must be diffused sufficiently to alter both the
level and the tone of the hair
• _____________________________________________
_____________________________________________
• _____________________________________________
_____________________________________________
CAUTION
• Powder lighteners are used exclusively for
off the scalp applications
• This means never directly on the scalp,
can be used on the shaft, ends, in foils, in
film, baliage, or with a highlighting cap
• Heat used with lighteners causes the
cuticle to crack and break, therefore
extreme caution must be used
Lightener retouch
• Mixture is only applied to new growth
• _________________________________
_________________________________
• _________________________________
Lightening virgin hair application
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Divide the hair into four quadrants
Place cotton in all four sections to protect the scalp
Apply lightener
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
Place strips of cotton at the scalp area along the parting to prevent the lightener from
touching the base of the hair
Complete all four sections in this manner __________________________________
Add more lightener if necessary
Do NOT comb the lightener through the hair
Keep the lightener moist during development
Take a strand test
Once desired level is reached apply the lightener to the scalp
Then apply to the porous ends
Rinse thoroughly with warm water
Shampoo gently – hair is fragile
Condition hair
Tone if necessary
Toners
• _________________________________
_________________________________
• Your speed and accuracy are both
important factors in the application and will
determine whether you get good color
results
Special effects haircoloring
• _________________________________
________________________________
• _______________ – coloring some of the
hair strands lighter than the natural color
to add a variety of lighter shades
• _________________________________
– technique of coloring strands of hair
darker than the natural color
3 basic methods of highlighting:
• Cap
• Foil / Film
• Baliage or free form technique
Cap highlighting
• Previously referred to
as________________________________
_________________________________
• Pulling clean, dry strands of hair through a
perforated cap with a thin plastic or metal
hook
• Number of strands pulled through will
determine the noticeable results
Foil technique (Film, Paper)
• ______________________________________
______________________________________
______________________________________
• Placing foils is an art and takes much practice
and discipline
• Slicing is taking a 1/8 inch parting by making a
straight part at the scalp
• Weaving is selected strands are picked up from
a narrow section of hair with a zigzag motion of
the comb
Baliage
• Also spelled Balyage
• _________________________________
_________________________________
• The lightener is applied with an applicator
brush or a tail comb from the scalp to the
ends around the head
• _________________________________
_________________________________
_________________________________
Color correction
• The use of a toner may be used to cancel
out any undesirable yellow contributing
pigment
• A toner could but not always add a slight
amount of lift or “bump” to the natural hair
surrounding the prelightened hair – to
avoid this use a color that does not require
a developer
Highlighting shampoo
• _________________________________
_________________________________
• They cause the natural color to be lifted
slightly
Gray hair challenges &
solutions
• Gray hair can turn orange if the lightener used is
not processed long enough
• _________________________________ from
smoking, medication, sun exposure, and some
styling products – this can often
______________________________________
______________________________________
• Gray hair accepts the level of color that is
applied except when the level is 8 or higher
because there is a low concentration of dye
found in the higher numbers
Gray hair challenges and solutions
• Use 20 volume developer
• _________________________________
• _________________________________
_________________________________
• High lift blond is not designed for gray
coverage
• _________________________________
_________________________________
_________________________________
Rules for effective color correction:
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Do not panic – remain calm
Determine the nature of the problem
Determine what caused the problem
Develop a solution
Always take one step at a time
Never guarantee an exact result
Always strand test for accuracy
Damaged hair
• Hair is damaged when it has one ore more of
the following characteristics:
1- rough texture
2- overporous condition
3- brittle and dry to the touch
4 – susceptible to breakage
5- becomes spongy and matted when wet
6 – color fades too quickly or grabs too dark
Tips for dealing with damaged hair:
• Use a penetrating conditioner that can deposit protein,
oils and moisture-rich ingredients
• Complete each chemical service by normalizing the pH
with an acidic finishing rinse, this will restore the ability
of the cuticle to protect the internal hair
• Postpone any further chemical services until the hair is
reconditioned
• Schedule the client for between-service conditionings
• Recommend retail products for use at home to prepare
for the next service
Fillers
• _________________________________
• _________________________________
_________________________________
_________________________________
• Two type of fillers:
_________________________________
_________________________________
• Help hair to accept color evenly
Selecting the correct color filler
• ______________________________________
______________________________________
• To correct an unwanted haircolor, always use
the primary or secondary color that is missing in
the hair
• Example: orange blond hair can be corrected to
a natural blond by adding the missing primary
color blue, blue cancels orange
• A primary color always cancels a secondary
color and a secondary color always cancels a
primary color
Tips for redheads
• Fading is a common problem with redheads
• It is important to recommend the proper at home
products for redheads
• To create warm coppery reds use a red orange
base color
• To create hot fiery reds use red-violet or a true
red color
• Always use a no-lift deposit only color to refresh
the shaft and ends
• ______________________________________
______________________________________
______________________________________
Tips for Brunettes
• To avoid orange or brassy tones when lifting
brown hair with permanent color always use a
cool blue base
• To avoid brassy tones do not lighten more than
two levels above the natural tone
• Add 1oz of a neutral color to cover gray in a
brunette
• Natural highlights should be deep or caramel
color – blond is too much contrast with brunette,
it does not look natural and requires frequent
touch-ups
Tips for blonds
• Is popular, profitable and find
• When
_____________________________________________
_____________________________________________
• When covering gray hair use a level 7 or darker for best
coverage
• _____________________________________________
_____________________________________________
• If a high light blond that only lifts 5 levels is used on a
level 4 and below the result will be warm and brassy
• If highlights become too blond or all one color, lowlights
or deeper strands needed to be foiled in to create a
more natural look
Common haircolor solutions
• Green cast –
_________________________________
________________________________
up in pipes, attaches itself to blond hair,
can be washed away with a clarifying
shampoo or mineral remover (it is not
chlorine that causes this)
• Green cast – in a brunette, color
formulation was incorrect and used a
green based color. Tone with a gold,
copper or neutral to cast out green tone
Overall hair color is too light
• To correct apply a no-lift deposit only hair
color two shades darker than the previous
formula
Overall color is too dark
• Determine how much color needs to be
removed
• _________________________________
• Process for 10 minutes and check
• These are specially formulated to remove
oxidative tints from the hair
• Wash and tone to new desired color
Restoring hair to natural hair color
• ____________________________________
• When dealing with a blond – first soften the new
growth with a level 6 violet base color with 20
volume for 30 minutes, rinse, apply a no lift
glaze with 1 oz of level 8 light natural blond and
1oz of level 9 red-orange, do not apply to scalp
but rest of head, process for 20 minutes, rinse,
then mix a no lift glaze with 2 oz of level 6
neutral apply for 20 minutes checking every 5,
rinse, shampoo, condition, and style
Safety precautions
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________________________________________________
Do not apply haircolor if abrasions are present
Do not apply haircolor if a metallic hair color is present
Do not brush the hair prior to applying color
_________________________________________________
Use sanitized applicator bottle, brushes, combs, and towels
Protect your client’s clothing
Perform a strand test
Do not mix color until you are ready to use it
Discard all left overs
Wear gloves
Do not overlap during a haircolor retouch
Use a shampoo made for chemically treated hair
Always wash hands before and after each client