Chapter 14
2012edition
Principles of Hair Design
Design is:
* foundation of all artistic
applications
•Designers have a strong visual eye
*design the best hairstyle for
your client
•Analyze the entire person
* elements and principles of
design
* enhance positive features
* minimize negative ones
•Develop artistic skill and judgment
Bestfashions.blogspot.com
Celebhairstyles.wordpress.com
Trendynewhairstyles.blogspot.com
Philosophy of Design
•See the end result before beginning
•Inspiration comes from:
* movies, TV, magazines…
* sparks the creative process
•Best source
* found in nature
•Hairstyle from an earlier time
* inspire you
•Follows fashion trends
*create the total look
•Decide:
* tools and techniques needed to
achieve design
-cutting shears, flat irons, perm,
color, etc
•develop or practice a technique
•Be open to change
*creative process
-exciting and satisfying
•Develop a visual understanding
* styles work best
-face shapes
-body types
•Train your eye
•Review these pages over and over
•Best teacher
* time
* trial-and-error process
* experience
•Strong design foundation
* great stylist
* creative juices
* beyond the basics
* take calculated risks
“safe” = “dull”
•“cookie cutter” stylist
* everyone gets the same haircut or
design
•Explore new possibilities
* customizing your design
-individual needs and lifestyle
•Think out of the box
Matriz.com
thestar.com
•Great hairstylists:
* find inspiration everywhere
* keeping an eye out for what is
new
* dedicate themselves to their
continuing education
•Have your eyes and mind always open
to learning
Elements of Hair Design
•Five basic elements of design
Line
Form
Space
Texture
Color
Line
• Defines form and space
• Creates
* shape
* design
*movement
• Eye follows
* straight or curved
Horizontal lines
* width
* same direction
* constant distance apart
Hairstyles-tips.blogspot.com
Hairstyle-blog.com
Vertical lines
* length and height
* appear longer
* narrower
Bestwomenstyle.com
hairfinder.com
Diagonal lines
* between
-horizontal
-vertical lines
•Emphasize
*minimize facial features
•Creates interest
Hubpages.com
Nowchic.com
Just-for-mom.kaboose.com
Zimbio.com
Curved lines
* soften a design
•Full circle
* part of a circle
•Horizontally, vertically, or diagonally
•Repeating in opposite directions create
a wave
Latesthairstyle.net
Latest-hairstyles.com
Beauty.about.com
Designing with Lines
• Created by type of line, direction, or
combination
Single lines
* one length hairstyles
* lowest maintenance
Toniandguy.com.au
Parallel lines
* repeating lines
* straight or curved
* more interest
• Finger wave
* curved parallel lines
Blacknews.com
Mirror.co.uk
Healthytextures.typepad.com
Contrasting lines
* horizontal and vertical lines
-meeting at a 90 degree
angle
•Creates a hard edge
•Strong look
z.about.com
Hypnoticsalon.com
Transitional lines
* curved lines
* blend and soften
- horizontal
- vertical lines
Haircutshairstyles.com
Hairstyles53.com
Form
•General outline of the hairstyle
•Three-dimensional
* length
* width
* depth
•Volume
•Silhouette
* overall design
* client will respond to first
•In proportion
* shape of the head and face
* length and width of the neck
* shoulder line
Lifeandtrend.com
Fashionhaircuts.blogspot.com
Short-hairstyles-pictures.blogspot.com
Space
•Area the hairstyle occupies
•Every angle
* keep in mind
- forms being created
- spaces as well
•Curls, waves, straight hair, or any
combination
Hairstyles.hairboutique.com
Modelbride.com
Romance-fire.com
Design Texture
•Wave patterns
•Described as
* straight
* wavy
* curly
* extremely curly
•Straight hair reflects light
* single line haircut
•Wavy hair
* combed into horizontal lines
•Curly and extremely curly
* do not reflect much light
* coarse to the touch
•Curly hair
* larger form than straight or
wavy hair
Beauty.abut.com
Diylusional.livejournal.com
Creating Design texture with Styling
Tools
•Texture
* temporary
* heat or wet
•Curling iron or hot rollers
* wave or curl
Setssalon.ca
amozon.com
Appliance.com
Bridalwave.tv
Hair-style-magazine.cm
•Curly hair
* straightened
•Crimping irons
Blisssalonstore.com
* interesting zigzags
•Rollers/pin curls/finger waves
*temporary textured pattern changes
Hairs.com
Hairs.com
jouez.blogspot.com
Madhatta.buzznet.com
Hubpages.com
Changing Design Texture With
Chemicals
•Permanent
* until new hair grows in
•Curly hair
* straightened
•Straight hair
*curled with permanent waves
Tips for Designing with Wave Patterns
•Many wave pattern combinations
* overly busy look
* multitextured
-less appropriate
for professionals
Community.livejournal.com
Popgloss.com
•Smooth wave patterns
* accent the face
•Use to narrow a round head shape
*** make smaller
•Curly wave patterns
* attention away from the face
* soften square or rectangular
features
Curly-hair-styles-magazine.com
Easycurls.com
Beauty.about.com
Community.livejournal.com
Color
•Important role in hair design
* visually
* psychologically
* appear larger or smaller
* defines texture and line
* ties design elements together
z.about.com
Yourhaircolorideas.com
Hairbrained.wordpress.com
Dimension with Color
•Light and warm
* illusion of volume
•Dark and cool
* recede or move in toward the head
* illusion of less volume
•Illusion of dimension
*lighter and warmer colors alternate
with darker and cooler colors
Withintheblackcommunity.blogspot.com
Short-hair-style.com
Profile.myspace.com
Lines with Color
•Eye is drawn to the lightest color
* light color to draw a line in a
hairstyle
* direction you want the eye to travel
•A single line of color
*bold, dramatic accent
Music.kpopshare.com
Profile.myspace.com
Thecuttingchair.com
Naturallycurlyhair.com
Color Selection
•Tone compatible with the skin
•Gold tone in skin
* warm hair colors in hair
•Natural tones
* two or more colors
* similar tones
* within two levels of each other
•Strong contrast is attention grabbing
•Trendy and can carry off a bold look
Flickr.com
Fotolia.com
Principles Of Hair Design
•Proportion, balance, rhythm,
emphasis, and harmony
*basis of hair design
•Understanding these principles
* more confidence
* creating styles that are pleasing
to the eye
Proportion
•Comparative relationship
* one thing to another
•Very small chin/very wide forehead
*not in proportion
•A well-chosen hairstyle
*illusion of better proportion
Body proportion
•Essential
* client’s body shape and size
•Challenges
* hair form too small
* too large
•Large hips or broad shoulders
* more volume
Naturallycurly.com
Cury-hair-styles-magazine.com
•Large hair
* out of proportion on a petite
woman
•Hair should not:
* be wider than the center of
the shoulders
Beyond center of shoulder
G-ecx.images.amazon.com
Cute-hair-cuts.blogspot.com
Balance
•Equal or appropriate proportions
*create symmetry
•Height to width
•Symmetrical or asymmetrical
•Dissatisfied
*style is out of balance
•Measure symmetry
* divide the face
* four equal parts
•Style
* pleasing to the eye
* in correct balance
Symmetrical balance
•Imaginary line
* through the center of the face
* two halves
-mirror image of one another
•Both sides
same distance
same length
same volume
Zimbio.com
Bridal-hair-styles.com
Kaboodle.com
Pro.corbis.com
Asymmetrical balance
•Imaginary halves
*equal visual weight
*appear equal but positioned unevenly
•Opposite sides
* different lengths
* different volume
•Can be horizontal or diagonal
Hji.co.uk
hairextensiions,.network.com
Hairstylescut.com
Rhythm
•Recurrent patttern
•Fast rhythm-tight curls
•Slow rhythm-larger shaping/long waves
Fashiontribes.typepad.com
Stylebell.files.wordpress.com
Emphasis
•Draws the eye first
*rest of the design
Create interest:
* Wave patterns
* Color
* Change in form * Ornamentation
Easy-hairstyles.com
Beautytwist.com
Brides.com
Hairstyles53.com
•Choose
* want to emphasize
•Design simple
* easy for the eye to follow
•Multiple points
*decrease in size
-importance
•Remember, less is more
Hubpages.com
Harmony
•Creation of unity
* most important principle
* holds all of the elements of the
design together
* a form with interesting lines
* pleasing color
* combination of color and
textures
* balance and rhythm
-strengthen the design
•Never too busy
•In proportion
* facial and body structure
* area of emphasis
•Facial features
* analyzed
* strengths and weaknesses
*** Most important point in this
chapter!!!
Your job
* accentuate a client’s best
features
*downplay features that do not
add to the person’s
appearance
•Artistic and suitable hairstyle
*physical characteristics
•Shape of the head
* front
* profile
* back
•Features (perfect and imperfect)
•Body posture
Influence of Hair Type on Hairstyle
•Hair type
* major consideration
•Two characteristics:
* wave pattern
* hair texture
Considerations:
* natural wave patterns
* texture
* density
choosing a style
Fine, straight hair
* hugs the head shape
* no body or volume
* styling aids or chemical services
Salonbliss.com
Lovehair.blogspot.com
Bellasugar.com
•Straight, medium hair
* more versatility
* responds well to blow-drying
* good amount of movement
Antonshairstudio.com
Celebrityhairstyle.blogspot.com
•Straight, coarse hair
* hard to curl
Bellaonline.com
Hairstyle-blog.com
* more volume
* slightly wider silhouette
*use flat brushes
* thermal styling
* flat brush
* blow-dryer/round brush
-too “poofy”
* chemical services may take a
little longer
•Wavy, fine hair
* appear fuller
- appropriate haircut
- style
* layering
- fuller
Lovehair.blogspot.com
Haircutsfashion.com
* responds
- blow-drying
- chemical services
* can be fragile
* diffused
-fuller appearance
•Wavy, medium hair
* most versatility
* diffused
* easily straightened
- blow-drying
Hairthursday.com
•Wavy, coarse hair
* silhouette can get very wide
* unruly if not shaped properly
* flattering shape
-easy to maintain
* soft perm for wash–and-wear
curly style
*chemical relaxer
43things.com
Beauty.about.com
Todaystylist.com
•Curly, fine hair
Naturallycurly.com
Marieclaire.com
* separates
* revealing scalp
* mild relaxers
* color services
*blowdrying
not effective
in humid environment
•Curly, medium hair
* wide silhouette
*natural
-soft romantic look
Healthyhairplus.com
Hairthursday.com
* wide silhouette
- proportion to body shape
* shaping
- weight line
* responds
- relaxers
- color
•Curly, coarse hair
* heavy styling products
*shrinks when dry
-appears much shorter
Hairthursday.com
•Very curly, fine hair
* most flattering shape
- determined first
- ease of styling
* best if cut short
Haircutsfashion.com
Awonderfuleverything.com
* left long
- wide
-extremely voluminous
* chemical services
* pressing
* may be fragile
Delush.com
•Extremely curly, medium hair
* silhouette
- very wide
-looks wider rather than longer
* chemical relaxers
* hair pressing
* natural state
- close to the head
- ease of styling
- low maintenance
Curly-hair-styles-magazine.com
•Extremely curly, coarse hair
* extremely wide
* chemical relaxing
* often too thick
- ponytail
* easy care hair
Enotalone.com
- short, cropped layers
Facial types
•Facial shape
* position and prominence
* facial bones
•Determine
* hair off of the face
* observe
Seven basic facial shapes:
* Oval
* Round
* Square
Hair completely
off the face,
observe
* Oblong
* Triangle (pear-shaped)
* Inverted triangle (heart-shaped)
* Diamond
* recognize each
- style the hair
- most flattering design
* create the illusion
~ oval-shaped face
*** “perfect shaped face” and can wear any hairstyle
Divide the face into three zones:
* forehead to eyebrows
* eyebrows to end of nose
* end of nose to bottom of chin
Add:
1/3
1/3
1/3
Oval Facial Type
* basis for modifying all
other facial types
Shapeyourstyle.com
Facial contour
* about 1 ½ times longer
- width across the brow
* forehead is slightly wider
- chin
* any hairstyle
- considerations
~ eyeglasses
~ length and shape of nose
~ profile
Shapeyourstyle.com
Celebrity examples:
Jewel
Cameron Diaz
Elle MacPherson
Julia Roberts
Sharon Stone
Round Facial Type
Facial contour:
* round hairline
* round chin line
* wide face
Hairstyles-blog.com
Objective:
* illusion of length
* slimmer
Styling choice:
Shapeyourstyle.com
* height or volume on top
* closeness or no volume at the sides
Celebrity examples:
Kate Winslet
Drew Barrymore
Christina Ricci
Catherine Zeta-Jones
Square Facial Type
Facial Contour:
* wide at temples
* narrow at middle third of face
* squared off at jaw
Objective:
* offset or round out square features
Styling choice:
* soften the hair
- temples and jaw
* close to the head
* create volume
- temple and jaw
- width at the ear
Celebrity examples:
Sandra Bullock
Demi Moore
Holly Marie Combs
Kristin Scott Thomas
Blog.fashionwindows.com
Shapeyourstyle.com
Triangular
(pear-shaped)
Facial Type
Facial contour:
* narrow forehead
* wide jaw
* wide chin line
Objective:
* illusion of width
- forehead
Styling choices:
* volume at the temples
* height at top
* hide narrowness of
forehead
- bangs
(soft fringe)
Styletips101.com
Celebrity example:
Kathy Ireland
Hairdohairstyles.com
Rottentomatoes.com
Oblong Facial Type
Facial contour:
* long, narrow face
* hollow cheeks
Objective:
* make face appear
- shorter
- wider
Styling choice:
* keep close to top of head
- no volume
* volume to sides
- illusion of width
* hair not long
* chin length
Celebrity examples:
Kirstie Alley
Ron Pearlman
Liv Tyler
Stephanie Seymour
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://images.mylot.com/userImages/images/postphotos/198476.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.mylot.com/w/photokeywords/liv%2Btaylor.aspx&h=375&w=500&sz=32&tbnid=
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nBg&sqi=2&ved=0CDEQ9QEwAQ&dur=612
Babble.com
Diamond Facial Type
Facial contour:
* narrow forehead
* extreme width through
cheekbones
* narrow chin
Objective:
* reduce width across the
cheekbone line
Styling choice:
* fullness
- jawline
- forehead
* close to head at cheekbone
- create oval appearance
Hairstyles-blog.com
Beautynewsla.com
Celebrity example:
Nicole Kidman
http://www.shoppinglifestyle.com/gallery/celebrityhairstyles/?pg=25
http://celebritiespicturezone.blogspot.com/2009/06/best-and-worst-hairstyles-for-your-face.html
Inverted Triangle Facial Type
(Heart shape)
Facial contour:
* wide forehead
* narrow chin line
Hair-styles-secrets-revealed.com
Teamsugar.com
Objective:
* decrease width
- forehead
* increase width
- lower part of the face
Styling choice:
* close to the head
* no volume
* bangs
*increase width
- middle third
- at cheekbone
- near the ears
* widest at the jaw
-neck area
Hairdos411.
Celebrity examples:
Michelle Pfeiffer
Jennifer Love Hewitt
Ashley Judd
Profiles:
* outline of the face
- head
- figure seen in a side view
Straight profile
* considered ideal
- not convex or concave)
* all hairstyles are flattering
Inmagine.com
Convex profile
* receding forehead and chin
- curls or bangs over the
forehead
- close to the head at nape
- move hair forward in the
chin area
Sciforums.com
Concave profile
* prominent (sticks out)
forehead and chin
* others recede inward
* softly style at the nape
- upward movement
- no hair on forehead
Straight face/prominent
nose
http://feaginandowenplasticsurgery.com/before-after-gallery/17/rhinoplasty/nose.html
Concave
Suddenlysenior.com
Special Considerations
* apply design principles
- balance facial structural
challenges
* divide face
- three sections
- do analysis
Top Third of the Face
Wide forehead:
* hair over the sides of the
forehead
Narrow forehead:
* direct the hair away from the
forehead
* lighter highlights at temple
- creates illusion of width
Receding forehead:
* bangs over the forehead
- volume
Large forehead:
* bangs with little or no volume
The Middle Third of the Face
Close-set eyes:
* on long, narrow faces
* hair back away from the
temples
* diagonal part
* some height
* lightening
- corner of the eyes
- illusion of width
Madisonmag.com
Hair-style-magazine.com
Wide-set eyes:
* round or square faces
* higher half bang
- length in the face
* illusion of the face being
larger (longer)
* eyes
- more proportional
* hair
- slightly darker at the sides
Memefirst.com
Zimbio.com
Crooked nose:
* asymmetrical
- off centered styles
- attract the eye away
from the nose
*symmetrical (remove “A”in book)
- accentuates face is not
even
Boston.com
Flickr.com
Wide, flat nose:
* keep hair away from the
face
* center part
- elongate and narrow
the nose
http://www.drdayan.com/surgery/conditions-nose.html
Long, narrow nose:
Stay away from…
* hair tapered close to the head
* height on top
* middle part
* hair directed toward the face
Do…
* style hair away from face
- illusion wider facial
features
Rocketrend.wordpress.com
Small nose:
* hair swept off the face
* off the forehead
- length to the nose
Bordeglobal.com
Prominent nose:
* hair forward at forehead
- softness around the face
Starpulse.com
Lower Third of the Face
Round jaw:
* straight lines at jaw
Square jaw:
* curved lines at jaw
Zimbio.com
Shapeyourstyle.com
Long jaw:
* hair full
* fall below the jaw
Gamespot.com
Receding chin:
* hair forward in the chin area
Sciforums.com
Small chin:
* hair up and away
- chin line
Pulpcouture.livejournal.com
Large chin:
* hair
Cambridgeprivatehospital.co.uk
- longer or shorter than chin
*avoid drawing attention
Head shape
* not all are round
* feel head shape
- choosing hairstyle
* design the style
- volume in areas, flat and small
- reduce volume for large or
prominent areas
*** Pay close attention to head
shape when performing:
Add to side bar:
*buzz cuts
*French twists
Styling for People Who Wear Glasses
* arm of the glasses
- push the hair at the ear
- cause it to stick out
* short haircuts
- little length around the ear
- cut the hair above the ear
Hair Parts:
* focal point
* eye is drawn
Thehairstyler.com
* best to use the natural part
* challenging
- working against a natural part
*** often a trend/not always appropriate…
Parts for the Bangs (Fringe)
Bangs:
* triangular section
- begins at the apex
- highest point of the head
- ends at the front corners
Hairdohairstyles.com
Triangular part
* basic parting for fringe sections
Diagonal part
* height
- round or square faces
* width
- long, thin faces
Thecreativestudio.com
Dailymail.co.uk
Curved part
* receding hairline
* high forehead
Style parts:
* highlight facial features
Center parts are classic
* oval faces
* avoid
- prominent noses
*** less flattering features
Is this a good part
for Sarah?
Why or why not?
Uk.fashion.popsugar.com
Side Parts
* develop height on top
* thin hair appear fuller
Hair-craft.co.uk
Diagonal
* illusion of width
- height
Zigzag
* dramatic effect
Short-hair-style.com
Flickr.com
Designing for Men
* all design principles and
elements work for men
* all hair lengths are acceptable
* recommend styles
- flattering
- appropriate
~ lifestyle-career-hair type
Cool-mens-hairstyle.blogspot.com
123 hairstyles.com
Professinalhaircare.blogspot.com
Menshairstylesonline.com
Hairresources.com
hairstyleshaircuts.info
***now men are
* “metrosexuals”
* care for themselves better than ever
* growing market
* impeccable skills
- excellent customer service
*key to successfully (lucratively)
- providing services to this client base
Choosing Facial Hair Design
*mustaches, beards, sideburns
* camouflage facial flaws
* no prominent chin
- neatly trimmed full beard
and mustache
*wide face/full cheeks
- close-trimmed beard/mustache
Menshair.about.com
Teen.aol.com
Lasfashionistas.blogspot.com
Menshair.about.com
Balding
* closely trimmed hair
* closely trimmed beard and
mustache
Sideburns, mustaches, beards
* dictated by current
trends/fashions
* well-groomed and flattering