Chapter 18
Braiding and Braid
Extensions
•Origins in Africa
•Different styles
~ social status
Amyhairbraiding.com
•More important the person, the more elaborate
the braids were
Ehow.com
Cedarartworld.com
•Today
~ signals self-esteem and self-image
•Africa
~ handed down from generation to
generation
•Investment of time
•African cultures
~ opportunity for women to socialize and
form relationships
•Today
~ salons practice “natural hairstyling”
•No chemicals
~ does not alter the natural curl or coil
pattern
•For people of all ethnicities
•Diverse approach to hair care
•With proper care
~ can last up to three months
~ 6-8 weeks preserves the health
of the hair
•Investment in time and money is high
•Detailed consultation
~ ensures a happy ending
•Fill out client card
~ update every appointment
Ehow.com
Hometownhairbraiding.com
Hair Analysis
Consultation:
~ condition of hair and scalp
~ texture (3 qualities)
1. Diameter
~ coarse, medium, or fine
2. Feel
~ oily, dry, hard, soft, smooth,
coarse, or wiry
3. Wave pattern (coil configuration)
~ straight, wavy, curly, or coiled
•Coil
~ very tight curl
~ spiral in formation
~ when stretched,
resembles loops
• “Textured hair”=
tight coil pattern
Manandchic.blogspot.com
Consider:
•Density
~ where hair is thin
•Condition
~ damage and breakage
•Length
~ physically long enough
•Scalp health
~ healthy/properly cared for
Read FYI
Page 517
Oval Face
•Most braids are appropriate
Round Face
•Add height
Hairweb.org
***Asymmetrical creates a slenderizing look
•High on top
*secured below the crown in back
Hairbytowanda.com
Pabeautystation.co.uk
http://www.natural-hair-care-info.com/cornrow-gallery.html
Square face
•Longer braids to frame the face
Inverted Triangle (Heart) Face
***Partial bangs
***Frame the face
***Fullness at chin
Triangular (Pear) Face
•Bring braids forward at chin line
http://braids.nicehairstyles.net/tag/micro-braids-hairstyles-2/
Oblong Face
***Full styles
***Partial bangs
***Medium length
***Avoid middle parts
Morris-roots.com
•Side chignon
Tools for Braiding
Boar-bristle brush
~ stimulates scalp
~ removes dirt and lint
•Soft nylon brush
~ fine
~ soft hair at hairline
Cherrybrook.com
Square paddle brush
~ releases tangles, knots, and
snarls
~ cushion of air (bristles collapse with
resistance
*prevents breakage in fragile
hair
Vent brush
~ gently to remove
tangles
~ wet or dry hair
fbi4u.com
•Use on human hair extensions
•Check tips
~ even if one is
missing/discard
Cachebeauty.com
Wide-toothed comb
~ teeth width
~ medium to large
•Avoidsscratching the scalp
•Allows textured hair to move
between rows of teeth
Cosmeticmarket.com
Double-tooth comb
~ separates the hair
~ detangles wet hair
Tail comb
Beauty-relaxation.co.za
~ for design parting
~ sectioning large segments
~ opening and removing braids
Finishing comb
~ 8 to 10” in length
~ used while cutting
~ fine/straight hair
Beautystore.com
Cutting comb
~ for small sections
~ use after hair is softened and
elongated with blow-dryer
Pick with round teeth
~ lifting and separating
*** one in kit
Blow-dryer with pick nozzle
~ dries, stretches, and softens
Diffuser
~ dries without disturbing the
finished look
Folica.com
$187.00
Five-inch scissors
~ creates shape and finished look
~ trims bangs (fringe)
~ excess extension material
Sleekhair.com
Long clips
~ separates into
large sections
Butterfly and small clips
~ separates into various sections
Hooded dryer
~ remove excess moisture before
blowdrying
Small rubber bands or string
~secure the ends
Read: State Regulatory Alert
Extensions
Extension fibers-list to follow
Hackle
~ board of fine upright nails
~ used to detangle and
blend colors
Hairlineillusions.com
Drawing board
~ flat leather pads with close
and fine teeth
~ sandwich the human
hair extensions
madeinchina.com
Materials and Extensions
•The fibers you use will determine
~ how successful
~ durable the extension will be
•Buying new product:
~ buy in small quantities
~ test the fiber on a mannequin
first
Vogishchic.info
Human hair
~ gold standard
~ imported from Asia
~ little information about the process
~ is it 100% ?
~ deal with suppliers you know and trust
Kanekalon
~ manufactured, synthetic fiber of
excellent quality
~variety of types, colors, textures
***less shine
Madeinchina.com
Tradeeasy.com
~ some are high-heat resistant
~ durable, soft, less tangling
~ holds up to shampooing and styling
***costs more/better quality
Nylon or rayon synthetic
~ less expensive
~ varying qualities
~ reflects light/very shiny
~ known to cut or break the hair
~ repeated shampooing=less durable
~ will melt if high heat is applied
Samantha140508.blogspot.com
Whyareyouyelling.blogspot.com
Yarn
~ made of cotton or nylon blend
~ very inexpensive
~ light, soft, and detangles easily
~ available in many colors
~ matte finish
~ expands when shampooed
* will not slip
~ appear black in store/shows blue or green tint in
natural light
Quinnster,fgdn.net
Lin
~ wool fiber from Africa
~ matte finish
~ only in black and brown
~ comes in roll
~ any length and size
~ very flammable
Yak
~ strong fiber
~ domestic ox
~ use alone or blend with human hair
~ mixed helps to remove manufactured
shine
2001everest.com
Wellbanklochans.co.uk
Tradeindia.com
Working With Wet or Dry Hair
~ best dry/wet shrinks
~ tension leads to breakage
~ wet-allow for shrinkage
~ straight, resistant hair
*coat with wax or pomade
Read Caution
~ if shampooed, apply leave-in
conditioner
~ use wide-toothed comb
* detangling comb
~ blow-dry the hair
~ wax, pomades, gels, or lotions can be
used
~ use large paddle brush
~ start at ends to remove tangles
~ textured hair is
* very fragile/wet and dry
~ blow-dry quickly
* softens
* more manageable
~ loosens and elongates wave pattern
* easier “pick-up”
* manipulation of the hair
Braiding the Hair
•Classified
~ visible or invisible
Visible braid
~ three-strand braid
~ underhand technique
cute2try.hairdos.blogspot.com
~ left and right sides woven under center
strand
***used for cornrows
Invisible braid
~ three-strand braid
~ overlapping
~ overhand technique
~left and right strands go over the
middle one
Amothers’journal.com
Hairboutique.com
Rope Braid
•Two strands
~ twisted around each other
~ on one-length or long, layered hair
~ add to both sides before twisting
***done on dry hair
Farm2static.flickr.com
Fishtail Braid
•Simple two-strand braid
~ hair picked up from sides
~ added to the strands as they are
crossed over each other
*** done on dry hair
~ non-layered hair, at least shoulder
length
Hairboutique.com
Electricbanana.typepad.com
Invisible Braid
•On or off the scalp
•With or without extensions
•Straight layered hair-use wax or
pomade
Single Braids
Terms: single, box, individual
~ all refer to free-hanging braids
~ with or without tension
~ either underhand or overhand stitch
~ all hair textures
Math.buffalo.edu
Subsections
~ square
~ triangular
~ rectangular
~ parting determine where braid is
* how it moves
~ moves in any direction
Naturallyyoumagazine.blogspot.com
Amandahairbraiding.com
•Extensions
~ for single braids
* integrated into the natural hair
~ select synthetic hair, yarn, or human
hair
~ vital in the finished style
~ must be consistent and close together
Picasaweb.google.com
•During consultation
~ open package
~ verify that color is correct
~ cut to desired length
~ place on drawing board
~ place a heavy object on top
~ allows easy extract
~ can be separated and dispensed
free-hand
Cornrows
•Or canerows
~ narrow strips of visible braid
*lie close to the scalp
~ on-the-scalp technique
~ consistent even partings
www.freshafroeuropeansalon.co.uk/page8.htm
~ mannequin to practice
* speed
*accuracy
www.naani.com/cornrows-photos-gallery
* finger and wrist dexterity
~ worn by men, women, and children
Combination
cornrow with single
braids in back
Maasaibraids.com
~ various lengths and textures
~ elaborate designs
~ skill and creative expression
~ can last several weeks without
extensions
~ two months with extensions
Cornrows with Extensions
~ feed-in method
~ built up strand by strand
~ excess extension material
* too much weight on fragile hairline
* leaves an unrealistic finished look
~ correct tension eliminates artificial look
*prevents breakage
www.latinhairbraids.com/index.php/examples/form/
•Traditional
~ flat, natural, and contoured
~ partings define the finished style
~ creates a tapered or narrow base at
the hairline
~ extension hair
* fills in the base
~ takes longer
~ lasts longer
~ looks more natural
•When picking up hair
~ directly underneath
~ never comes from another panel
~ or extended up into the braid from a
lower part
•Overextending or misplacing the
beginning of the extension
~ leaves hair exposed and unsupported
~ leads to breakage and hair loss
especially at hairline
Tree Braids
•Newer way to add hair for longer
looks
•Client’s hair is braided along with
extension
•Finished look shows mostly faux
hair
http://stylesbyjamille.webs.com/apps/photos/photo?photoid=65745800
http://images.google.com/imgres?q=tree+braids+styles&hl=en&biw=1024&bih=619&gbv=2&tbm=isch&tbnid=Dkap13ZK90cnnM:&imgrefurl=http://www.nonyehairbraiding.com/nonye/specialty.php%3Fmghash%3D6d..%26mggal%3D8&docid=EKG
RDarDDzUlWM&imgurl=http://www.nonyehairbraiding.com/nonye/studio/images/8/pic_10.jpg&w=448&h=299&ei=idmBT6iiHY_iggfp9bzsBw&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=706&vpy=222&dur=22&hovh=183&hovw=275&tx=105&ty=100&sig=117154
882344098738236&page=4&tbnh=135&tbnw=192&start=63&ndsp=22&ved=1t:429,r:10,s:63,i:234
•Takes about 4 hours
•Techniques are still evolving
•Many ways to do them.
•You can read on if interested in
these braids.
Locks
•Or dreadlocks
~ hair that is intertwined and meshed
together
~ forms a single or separate network of
hair
~ without chemicals
~ several slow phases
~ can take six months to one year
To cultivate locks
~ double twisting
~ wrapping with cord
~ coiling
~ braiding
~ or not combing or brushing
•Rastafarians of Jamaica
~ natural course will
cause it to lock
(Rasta is a religion of
respect of all living things
and self-respect)
•Cultivated African locks
~ have symmetry and
balance
Magicdragon.org
Comb Technique
•Early stage
~ while the coil is still open
~ place comb at base of the scalp
* with a rotating motion
* spiraling the hair into a curl
~ comb moves down to the end
~ gives a tight coil
~ excellent on short hair
Palm Roll
~ gentlest
~ guides it through all the natural
stages of locking
~ apply gel to dampened subsections
~ place portion of hair between palms
of both hands
~ roll in a clockwise or counterclockwise
direction
~ move down the coil shaft
•Partings are:
~ directional
~ horizontal
~ vertical
~ bricklayered
•Decorative designs
•Sculpting patterns are creative options
Rastafarian.info
Curly-hair-styles-magazine.com
Braids or Extensions
~ involves sectioning the hair
* single braiding
~ synthetic fiber, yarn, or human hair
* added to single braid to form a
lock
~ after several weeks, braid will grow
away from the scalp
~ palm roll used to cultivate the new
growth to form a lock
Coolmenshair.com/2008
Associatedcontent.com
Micro braids
Merchantcircle.com
Womensbeautylife.com
Pro.corbis.com
Senegalese twists
*Synthetic hair
Picasaweb.google.com
Tree braids
Longhaircareforum.com
Kinky twists
Merchantcircle.com