PHT 435
A
cream is a topical preparation usually used for
application to the skin.
Its
made of a solid or semisolid emulsion.
Water
is an important content of skin creams.
 According
to emulsion type:
1.
W/O creams Eg: cold cream, cleansing cream,
and emollient cream.
2.
O/W creams Eg: common misturizers (hands
and body) Vanishing cream.
 According
to function:
Eg - cleansing, foundation, mousturizing etc.

It is an emulsion of water in oil (W/O).

Used as moisturizer, makeup remover and cleanser.
Normally the following ingredients are used:
1.
Meniral oil.
2.
White beeswax.
3.
Borax (used as emulsifier). responsible for the whiteness of cold
cream.
4.
Alcohol, glycerin, and lanolin.
5.
perfume
 Cleaning
cream used for removal of facial makeup,
surface grime and oil from the face and neck.
Leaving an emollient residual film on the skin to
keep it smooth and soft.
 Cleansing
cream is specifically formulated to
dissolve away greasy binding materials holding
pigments on the skin.
 Conveniently applied.
 Has low irritation factor when used.
 Will leave an emollient residual film on the skin
which is protective in a dry skin condition.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Stable, and have a good appearance.
Should soften on application to the skin.
Should spread easily. During application
It should not feel greasy or oily.
A thin emollient film should remain on the skin
after use of the cream.
It should be effectively be able to remove oilsoluble and water soluble soil and surface oil.

Vanishing creams get their name from the fact that they
seemed to disappear when spread onto the skin.

They are an oil-in-water O/W emulsion consisting of a
stearic acid, an alkali, a polyol and water.

the continuous phase evaporates leaving thin film on the
skin.

Produce emollient and moisturizing effect.

The traditional formula is based on high quality
stearic acid as the oil phase. This provides an oil
phase which melts above body temperature and
crystallizes in a suitable form so as to be invisible
and give non greasy film

The emulsifier is a soap which is formed in situ by
adding sufficient alkali or base to neutralize a
portion of the available fatty acids.
Rx
Stearic acid
Pot. Hydroxide
Glycerin
Water
Perfume, preservative
15 %
0.7 %
5%
79%
q.s

Moisturizing creams are used for day time , they are
intended to help preserve the skin in a soft condition
and delay formation of lines and wrinkles.

They maintain the moisture content of the skin.

Prevent dry skin condition by absorption of moisture.

They are used on the skin before applying make up ,
even before the use of colored foundation cream.
 Emulsifiers

Emulsifying agents, which are surface-active agents
(surfactants), are available in a wide range of
chemical types. These include nonionic and ionic.
1.
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
 Typically contain 10% to 35% oil phase; a lowerviscosity emulsion may have an oil phase reduced to
5% to 15%.
 Water in the external phase of the emulsion helps
hydrate the stratum corneum of the skin.
 This is desirable when one desires to incorporate
watersoluble active ingredients in the vehicle.
 Emulsifier blends with HLBs ranging from 7 to 16
are used for forming o/w emulsions.
 Eg. glycerol monostearate and polyoxyethylene
stearate blend and Polysorbates are o/w emulsifiers.
Water-in-Oil Emulsions
2.
These systems are desirable when greater release of a
medicating agent or the perception of greater
emolliency is desired.
 Emulsifiers having an HLB range of 2.5 to 6 are
frequently selected.
 When multiple emulsifiers are used, the predominant
one is generally lipophilic with a smaller quantity of a
hydrophilic emulsifier.
 Eg. Sorbitan stearates and oleates are effective
emulsifiers when used at 0.5% to 5.0%, sorbitan
isostearates, being branched chain materials, give a very
uniform particle size for w/o emulsions.

Multiple Emulsions
3.


Two types of multiple emulsions are encountered in
skin care, w/o/w, where the internal and external water
phases are separated by oil, and oil-in-water-in-oil
(o/w/o), where the water phase separates the two oil
phases.
Benefits of these types of formulations are the claimed
sustained release of entrapped materials in the internal
phase and separation of various incompatible
ingredients in the same formulation.
 Emollient



Emollients are materials used for the prevention or
relief of dryness as well as for the protection of the
skin
Water soluble emollients: propylene glycol,
Glycerol, Sorbitol and PEG.
Oil soluble emollients: Hydrocarbon oils and
waxes

Triglyceride oils
 Light-to-heavy feel, often used as spreading agents.

Humectants
 Eg. Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Sorbitol, Polyethylene
glycol
 0.5–15.0% in formulation
 Moisture-binding properties
 help retard evaporation of water from formulation.
 control viscosity, and impact body and feel of
emulsion.
 Mineral
oil
 Hydrocarbon, stable, inexpensive, not
subjected to rancidity and odorless
 It is a good solvent for oils and greases
binding makeup to skin.
 Increase mineral oil stiffs the cream.
 Increase
water content softens the cream.
 Petrolatum
Petrolatum, help stabilize the cream if a high
percentage of oil is used.
 aids in preventing bleeding of the mineral oil,
particularly when a light viscosity oil is used.

 Thickeners
 Eg. Carbopol, Veegum
 Help
obtain viscosity, enhance stability,
bodying agents.

Foundations are available in various forms: liquids, gels,
creams, solid creams, cakes (pancakes), mousse, or in
sticks (pen stick).

There are four basic facial foundation formulations:
1. oil-in-water
(for normal- and oily-skin types)
2. water-in-oil
(normal- and dry-skin types)
3. oil-free
(oily-skin type)
4. water-free
(women with facial scarring who require
camouflaging)

Are applied to the skin to unify the color of the skin,
improve a dull and tired complexion, give a matte
finish, and mask possible imperfections like dark spots,
small wrinkles, and the pores of the skin surface.

Their application must be easy and give coverage for a
natural complexion.

They must have a pleasant texture, a good adhesive
property

They must be comfortable, and have a consistent color
and smooth finish.







Pigments
Moisturizing agents like glycerin and hyaluronic acid,
vegetable oils, which improve the hydration and
flexibility of the skin.
Vitamins
Perfumes
Foundation can contain: ceramides,(to strengthen the
skin barrier),UV filters (UVA-UVB) giving makeup products
a sun protection index (SPF 5–30), Polysolixane as
Antifoaming Agent; Emollient, skin conditioning.
Fluorocompounds are used as water and oil repellent.
Silica is a multi-porous ingredient, which absorbs the oil
and sebum
 UV
radiation (UVR) reaching the Earth’s
surface can be divided into UVB (290–320 nm)
and UVA (320-400 nm).
 UVB is the principal cause of acute sunburn
and tanning (UVA radiation cause only15–24%
of sunburn). Therefore, sunscreen efficacy is
predominantly directed against UVB
radiations.
 In addition, exposure to UVB radiation is
immunosuppressive, mutagenic, and
carcinogenic.
 Definition:
it’s a formulations such as creams or
lotions, oils, gels, sticks, etc. that Protect the skin
against the effects of UVR by ) incorporating sin the
specially designed molecules (i.e., UV filters) in the
formulation.
 The
protective efficacy of a sunscreen against UVB is
expressed as the sun protection factor (SPF).
 Sunscreens
SPF ratings can range from minimal
(10 SPF), to moderate (10-30 SPF), to high (30+
SPF).
 SPF
ratings
do
not
actually
increase
proportionately. In other words, an SPF of 30 is
not double the protection of an SPF of 15. In fact,
an SPF 30 deflects 97 percent of the sun’s UVB
rays; SPF 15 deflects 93 percent of the sun’s UVB
rays.
 UV
1.
2.
3.
Filters:
UVB: PABA and its derivatives, Cinnamates, Salicylates.
UVA: Benzophenones, Avobenzone, Oxybenzone(A&B)
Physical Blockers:Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide.
Other additives: emusifying agents, emolient,
preservatives, …..
 Sunscreen ingredient will be determined by the
type of product, SPF and UVA efficacy levels,
desired

1.
2.
3.
4.
It must be non volatile and resistant to water.
Must posses suitable solubility characteristics.
It must be non toxic non irritant and non
sensitizing.
Must be stable under conditions of use.
 The American
Cancer Society warns against two
types of artificial tanning – tanning beds or
sunlamps – and a new product on the market –
tanning pills and accelerators.
 Tanning
Beds/Sunlamps: Give both UVA (320 to 400
nm) and UVB (290 to 320 nm) rays which can cause
serious, long-term skin damage.
 Tanning
pills:
contain color additives similar to beta-carotene, the
substance that gives carrots their orange color. The
additives are distributed throughout the body, especially
the skin, turning it an orange like color. The main
ingredient in sunless tanning pills, canthaxanthin, (yellow
crystals) its not FDA approved and may cause liver and
skin problems.
 Tanning
accelerators:
Its in the form of oil or lotion it have the potential to
enhance skin pigmentation, while exposing to UV
radiation (from the sun or tanning bed) these tan
accelerators contain amino acid tyrosine or tyrosine
derivatives that broken down by tryosinase enzyme
produced by melanocytes. Dopaquinone will be formed
which in turn forms the different types of melanin color.
This reaction is triggered by UV radiation.

Bronzers: made from color additives approved by the FDA

Extender:(sunless tanners or self-tanners)
for cosmetic use, stain the skin for a short time when
applied and can be washed off with soap and water.


are applied to the skin as lotions or creams, where they
interact with protein on the surface of the skin to produce
color. Like a tan, the color tends to wear off after a few days.
The only FDA-approved color additive for self tanner is
dihydroxyacetone (DHA) 2.5% to 10%.
DHA is predominantly formulated in oil-in-water emulsions,
DHA will react with amino group supplied by keratin in the is
the stratum corneum and pigment will be formed.
These products will not protect from UV radiation.