Basic Principles of Haircutting
Good haircuts:
*understand the shape of the head
Hair responds differently:
*various areas
*depends on length
*cutting technique used

Be aware of head form:
*curves
*turns
*changes

Reference Points:
*where surface changes
~ears
~jaw line
~occipital bone
~apex
*establish design lines
Baldheadfarms.com
Sxc.hu

Helps:
*find balance
~both sides turn out the same
~recreate the same haircut
~where/when to change technique
-flat crown
-bangs

Parietal Ridge:
*widest area
Find:
*temples to bottom of crown
*comb flat on side of head
Found:
*where starts to curve away from the comb

Occipital bone:
*protrudes at base of skull
Find:
*feel
*comb flat against nape

Apex:
*highest point
*top of head
Find:
*comb flat on top of head

Four corners:
Find:
*make two diagonal lines
*crossing the apex
*front and back corners

*will not use every point for every haircut
*know where they are
Example:
Front corners=widest point in bang area

Areas of the Head
Top:
*parietal ridge and above
*hair “lies” on head
Front:
*apex to back of ear
*falls in front of ear
Short-hair-styles.com

Sides:
*back of ear forward
*below parietal ridge
Crown:
*between apex and back of parietal ridge
*often flat
Hairstyletalk.com
*cowlicks and whorls
*pay special attention

Nape:
*below the occipital bone
Back:
*apex to the back of the ear
*all hair that falls behind the ear

Flickr.com
Myddnetwork.com

Flickr.com

Bang: (fringe)
*apex to front corners
*no farther than outer corner of eyes
(end of eyebrow)

Tanyalovesyou.b;ogspot.com
Junk2jewels.typepad.com

Lines and Angles
Line: thin continuous mark
Angle
*used as a guide
*space between two lines
*intersect at a given point
~straight
~curved

Horizontal lines:
*parallel to floor
(0 degrees)
*directs eyes from one side to another
*build weight
*one-length haircuts
*low-elevation haircuts

Top40.about.com
Tonyandguy.com
Awonderfuleverything.blogspot.com

Vertical lines:
*up and down
(90 degrees)
*perpendicular to floor
*removes weight
*graduated or layered haircuts
*higher elevations

Hairstylescut.com
Hairstylestips.blogspot.com
Greatlooks.com

Shorthairstyles.com
Hjico.uk/image
Hairstyles-picture.com

Diagonal lines:
*slanting
*sloping
*create fullness
*blend long layers

Hairstyleshaircuts.info
Batchplease.com
Hairstyles53.com

Latesthairstyles.com
Shorthaircut-styles.blogspot.com

Beveling:
*stacking
*diagonal lines
*slight increase/decrease in length

Haircutsformen.org
Hairfinder.com

Elevation:
*hair parted in sections
(four)
*smaller
~subsections
*part or partings
~line dividing the hair

Elevation: Known as Projection or Lifting
*angle or degree hair is held, or elevated, from the head
*creates graduation
~layers
*described in degrees

Blunt/one-length haircuts
*no elevation
*0 degrees
Elevation occurs when:
*lift hair above 0 degrees

From pictures:
~determine what elevations were used
~create any shape you desire

45 and 90 degree
*more elevate=more graduation
*below 90 degrees
~builds weight
*90 degrees or higher
~removing weight

Associatedcontent.com
Hairstyles-tips.blogspot.com

Curly hair
*use less elevation
*leave longer for shrinkage

Cutting line: known as cutting position, cutting angle, finger angle, finger position
*angle the fingers are held
~horizontal
~vertical
~diagonal
~by degrees

Guidelines: known as guide
*determines the length the hair will be cut
~perimeter (the outer line)
~interior inner or internal line)
*first section cut

Stationary guide:
*does not move
*all sections are combed to guide
Used in:
*blunt haircuts
*over-direction
~length or width

Hairstylestalk.com
Hairstyles53.com

Traveling guideline: known as movable guideline Trendyhaircutstyles.blogspot.com
Do-short-hairstyle.blogspot.com
*moves with haircut
*creates layered haircuts or graduated haircuts

Figure 16-22 & 16-23 (traveling guideline)
*guideline travels with you as you work through the haircut
*move it to the next subsection where it becomes your new guideline

Figure 16-25 and 16-26 one-length haircut
~no elevation
~diagonal cutting line
~stationary guideline

Figure 16-27 & 16-28
90 degree
~vertical cutting line
~traveling guideline
Figure 16-29 & 16-30
45 degree (stacked effect)
~diagonal cutting line (nape)
90 degree on top
~traveling guideline

Over-direction:
*comb hair away from natural falling position
*used to create length increase

Longer front:
~stationary guide at back of ear
Beauty.about.com

Shorter front:
~stationary guide at front
Hairstyles53.com

Client consultation:
*find out what client is looking for
*offer suggestions
*professional advice
*joint decision
*discuss whether that look is a good choice for the client

When not the best look for him/her:
*use gentle persuasion
*positive reinforcement
*offer alternatives
Work with:
~hair texture
~face shape
~lifestyle

Analyze:
*clean
*unstyled hair
Client:
*ask you about their hair
*tell you about their hair
*ask you for suggestions

Factors to consider:
*hair type
*time
*lifestyle
*classic or trendy

Analyze:
*density
*texture
*growth patterns
*hairline

Face shape:
*pull hair away
*widest areas
*narrowest areas
*balance of features
Hairstyle-blog.com

Look for:
*features to bring out
*de-emphasize
*weight and volume draw attention

Wide face
~ fuller sides
~appears wider
~narrow shape (style)
~length to face
Long face
~give fullness on sides
~adds width

Narrow forehead
~increase volume and width
To balance
~draw eye away from certain areas
~add or remove weight/volume

Consider:
*profile
~from the side
~pull hair away
*features to emphasize
*features to de-emphasize
~prominent or receding chin
~double chin
~overly large nose

Prominent/receding chin
Ctghealth.co.uk
Sciforums.com

Double chin
Large nose
Thelittlegreenblog.blogspot.com
Medscape.com

Type of part:
*natural
*center
*side

Use parts of face and body:
*points of reference
~chin length
~shoulder length

Hair shrinks when dry:
* 1/4” to ½”
*cut longer
Curly hair
* ½ ” to 2” or more

Hairlines:
*hairline
*outermost perimeter

Growth Patterns:
*direction grows from scalp
~cowlicks
~whorls
~affects where hair ends up
*use less tension

Nape:
*less tension
*avoid getting “hole”
Crown:
*be careful

Density:
# of individual hair strands on 1 square inch
~thin
~medium
~thick

Texture: thickness of each hair strand
~course
~medium
~fine

*different hair types
~respond differently to the same type of cutting
~some need more layers
~some need more weight

Coarse:
*sticks out if too short
Fine:
*cut very short, still lies flat
*scalp shows

Wave pattern:
*amount of movement in hair strand
*same length on different hair=different results
Review top of page

Haircutting tools:
*use only high-quality implements
*use properly
*take care of them
Hairproducts.com

Shears:
*cut blunt/straight lines
*slide cut
*point cut
*texturizing techniques

Americanprohaircare.com
Alibaba.com
$ 295.00

Royalshears.com
Wisecutshears.com

Texturizing shears:
*remove bulk
Called:
*thinning shears
*tapering shears
*notching shears
Absolutelygolden.com

*more teeth=less hair removed
Notching shears
*remove more hair
*larger teeth
*farther apart
Hicariscissors.com

Straight razors or feather blades:
*softer effect
*entire haircut
*thin hair out
*texturize
*different shapes and sizes
*with or without guards

Cachebeauty.com

Beautystoreinc.com

Clippers:
*short haircuts
*tapers
*fades
*flat tops

*without guard shave to scalp
*guards-various lengths
*clipper-over-comb
***use on longer hair also
DEMO
Hbbb.com.au

Trimmers: known as edgers
*smaller
*remove hair at neckline
*around ears
*crisp outlines
*shape-ups
Ebay.com.au
Nextag.com

Clips:
Please, Please, Please…
*long hair-butterfly clips
*short hair-duckbills

Wide-tooth comb:
*detangle hair
Tail comb:
*section

Barber comb:
*close tapers
*scissor-over-comb
Styling comb:
*used most

All About Shears
•
Most important tool
•
Have the right type, size, and make of shear for you
•
One that fits and is comfortable

Steel
Primary manufacturers:
Japan, Germany, United States
Gauge the hardness of the metal:
*can the shear hold a sharp edge for an extended period of time
•
Too soft-sharpened more often
•
Rockwell hardness---56-57 ideal
•
63 or over-too hard=brittle-can break while using

Forged versus Cast Shears
Cast
•
Molten steel poured into a mold
•
Metal cools-takes the shape of the mold
•
Disadvantages:
*if dropped-could shatter
*if bent-cannot be bent back
•
Usually less expensive

Forged
•
Working metal by hammering or pressing
•
Metal is heated, cooled, repeated
•
Similar in price as cast shears
•
Much higher quality and durability
•
Lasts significantly longer than cast shears

•
Some have handles welded to the blades
•
Usually blades are made with harder metal than handles
•
Can be repaired or adjusted by a technician

Parts of a Shear
•
Cutting edge does the cutting
•
Pivot and adjustment area makes the shears cut
•
Adjustment knob
*when tightened-pulls blades together so hair does not fall or slide between the blades
•
Finger tang-pinky-less stressed and pressure is relieved
•
More control over the shear

•
Ring finger hole----for the RING finger
•
Thumb hole---should only go to or slightly over the cuticle
Shear Maintenance
•
Daily cleaning and lubrication
•
Wipe off between each client---use scissor oil
•
Keep blades lubricated- reduces frictionmakes shears last longer-less sharpening needed

Daily adjustment and balancing
•
Tension too loose---shears will fold the hair
•
Too tight---cause shears to bind---unnecessary wear, user fatigue
•
Test for tension---DEMO

Weekly cleaning and lubricating
•
Carefully open shears to a 90 degree angle
•
Loosen the adjustment knob enough so a paper towel slides between the pivot point
•
Push out any hair and debris
•
Place one or two drops between the blades
•
Do not put oil on adjustment knob.

Disinfecting shears
•
Disinfect after each client
•
Clean shears with soap and water
•
Completely submerge in an EPA-registered disinfectant spray
•
Thoroughly dry the shears
•
Relubricate your blades http://www.bigdaddybeauty.com/p-2755-king-research-barbicide-largedisinfecting-jar-holds-37ozs.aspx

Sharpening shears
•
Only sharpen as needed
(not every time the sharpening technician comes to the salon) http://www.allbrands.com/products/abp12706.html
•
The better you care for your shears, the longer the edge will last
•
Go one year or longer between sharpening
•
Have a factory-certified technician sharpen your shears
•
Or send to the manufacturer for service

Read: Did you know? Page 357 and 358
Left-handed versus Right-handed Shears
•
Blades are reversed
•
Use the correct shear for your dominant hand http://omni-solutions.amazonwebstore.com/Fhi-FreeForm-5.5-Cutting-Shears-
Right/M/B0049R76FM.htm?traffic_src=froogle&utm_medium=CSE&utm_source=froogle http://omni-solutions.amazonwebstore.com/Fhi-FreeForm-7.0-Cutting-Shears-
Left/M/B0049R4YRK.htm?traffic_src=froogle&utm_medium=CSE&utm_source=froogle

Purchasing shears
•
Know how the shear was manufactured
•
Ask about steel quality
•
Decide on the right blade edge (convex edge is best)
•
Decide on the best handle design
*opposing grip
*offset grip
*full offset or crane grip (anatomically correct)
*releases pressure and stress on the nerves and tendons

Be sure the shear fits properly
*finger-fitting system-exact size of your ring finger and thumb
•
A proper fit ensures maximum performance, comfort, and control
Read: Here’s a Tip

Hold the shears in your hand
•
You need to feel the shears in your hand before you buy them
•
Make sure manufacturer offers a 30-day trial period full
*if not satisfied exchange or return for a refund

Swivel thumb shears
•
Provides great comfort and control
•
More relaxed working posture
Ask about the service agreement
•
Certified person in area to sharpen
•
Or send away to be sharpened

Ask about the warranty
•
Warranty period is
•
Exactly what is covered
Analyze the cost of the shears
•
High-quality steel
•
New cosmetologist-spend between $250-$350.

Determine how many pairs of shears you need
•
Rule of thumb: two shears (in case something happens to favorite shear)
•
One thinning or blending shear
Read: Here’s a Tip and both Did you know?
and Types of texture shears

Custom-fitted Shears
•
Properly fitted protects you from long-term repetitive motion injuries
*carpal tunnel syndrome or musculoskeletal disorders
•
Prevention is the key
• Your hand’s main job is the steer the shearcorrect blade tension does the cutting

Buying and using ergonomically correct and custom-fitted shears
•
Allows you to relax your grip
*reducing thumb pressure
*keeps blades sharper, longer
•
Reduces pressure on nerves and tendons
(prevents damage)
•
Allows the shears to do the cutting

1. Fitting the Shear Correctly
•
Ring finger-hole rests between the first and second knuckle
2. Fitting the thumb
•
Thumb hole will rest at or slightly over the cuticle area of your thumb
3. Relaxing your grip
•
Allows you to cut without any thumb pressure

Correct finger position and alignment
•
Crucial to having a healthy career
•
Correct finger position allows your fingers to stay properly aligned
Notice where her thumb is placed http://www.mediafocus.com/stock-photo-hair-stylist-cutting-hair-61008.html
http://images.google.com/imgres?q=stylist+cutting+hair&hl=en&biw=1024&bih=619&gbv=2&tbm=isch&tbnid=9dtefZUJbP1TUM:&imgrefurl=http://www.123rf.com/photo_2457354_hair-cutting-hair-stylist-atwork-with-scissors.html&docid=sIgkYDMyGKm-cM&imgurl=http://us.123rf.com/400wm/400/400/erierika/erierika0801/erierika080100063/2457354-hair-cutting-hair-stylist-at-work-withscissors.jpg&w=1200&h=801&ei=rGJnT8KGBOrk0QGb29i8CA&zoom=1&iact=rc&dur=493&sig=117154882344098738236&page=1&tbnh=150&tbnw=199 &start=0&ndsp=10&ved=1t:429,r:2,s:0&tx=91&ty=3
3

Holding your tools properly:
*most control
*best results
*avoid muscle strain
Dail.stanford.edu
Backstagesf.com

Jolieaidesalon.com

Holding your shears:
*ring finger
*thumb
*move only thumb

Shears and comb:
*at the same time
*dominant hand
~holds shears
~parts
~combs
~cuts
Picasaweb.google.com

*holding hand
~holds the sections while cutting
~holds comb
Genssty.com

Palming the shears:
*remove thumb
*curl fingers to “palm” shears
*keep blades closed
Transferring the comb:
*between thumb and index finger
Shutterstock.com

Holding the razor
*entire haircuts
*detailing
*texturizing
Hairstyle-pictures.biz
Prohaircut.com
Hairbarsalon.com

Method A:
*open razor
~handle is higher
*little finger in tang
*position
~top of subsection
~part facing you

Method B:
*handle and shank are in straight line
*thumb on grip
~wrap fingers around

*palm when combing
Accidents:
*when combing
~not cutting

Handling the Comb:
*wide teeth
~combing
~parting

*finer teeth
~comb before cutting
~more tension
~ears
~difficult hairlines
~curly hair

Tension
*amount of pressure
~stretching
~pulling
*minimum to maximum
*consistent tension
~constant even results

*maximum tension
~straight hair
~precise lines
*less tension
~curly, wavy hair
~less shrinkage

Minimum tension:
*ears
*hairlines

Posture and Body Position:
*important
*avoid future back problems
*better haircutting results
*move more efficiently
*more control
In the next slide, who’s body position is a bad choice?

Lancelocks.com
Picasaweb.google.com
clovetwo.com
elliotking.com

Position the client
*sitting upright
~legs not crossed
~facing mirror
~see what you are doing
***standing if hair is long

Center your weight
*body centered and firm
*knees slightly bent
Sitting:
*both feet on floor

Work in front of your section
* directly in front of area cutting
*position hands to cutting line

Hand Positions:
*cutting over fingers
~top of knuckles
~uniform or increasing layers
Tribuneindia.com
Beautynewsync.com

*cutting below fingers
~one-length bob
~heavier graduated cuts
~horizontal cutting line
~inside knuckles
Blessinghandsbeautysalon.cpm

*cutting palm-to-palm
~vertical
~diagonal
~maintains control
~hands face each other
~prevents strain on your back

Beautybyjudy.info

Safety in Haircutting
*accidents can happen
*protect yourself and clients
*palm shears and razor while combing
*shears closed
~pointed away from client

•
Not past second knuckle
•
Ears
~take extra care
~lots of blood

•
Bangs (fringe)
~balance shears on index finger
~prevents poking client
~cleaner line

•
Razor
~with guard
~take care removing and disposing old blade
~empty perm bottle, or wrap with scotch tape

Basic Haircuts
Blunt haircut:
*one-length
*weight line
Weight line: visual line in a haircut

*zero/no elevation
*stationary guide
*horizontal, diagonal, rounded
*use on finer hair
~appears thicker
Greathomehaircuts.com
Beauty.about.com

Short-haircutstyles.com
Choicehairstyles.com
Hairstyles53.com

Graduated haircut
*low-to-medium elevation
*over-direction
*45 degrees
*buildup of weight
*ends appear to be “stacked”

Kimlake.com
Austin.craigslist.com
Zimbio.com

Layered haircut
*higher elevations
*90 degrees and above
*less weight
*create movement
~volume
*traveling and or stationary guideline

Beauty.about.com
Hubpages.com

Short-hairstyles.com

Short-hairstyles.com
Menscoolhairstyles.com

Long-layered haircut
*180 degrees
*more volume
*shorter on top
~longer layers at perimeter

Clinic floor:
*two 180 degree haircuts used
In Lesson Book…
*Shortened 180 (write this)
Use on medium-long length hair

Hairstyles53.com
Celebrityhaircut.blogspot.com
Zimbio.com

Extended 180 (write this)
*Mrs. Kucas’ way
~use for long-very long hair
*both maintains weight in perimeter

Celebrityhaircut.blogspot.com

Long-hairstyle.blogspot.com
H4hair.co.uk
Myhaircuts.blogspot.com

Coolmenshair.com
Hairfinder.com
Mensvogue.com

Every haircut uses:
~one
~two
~three of these techniques

*add
~texturizing
~slide cutting
~scissor-over-comb gives you advanced haircutting
*unlimited shapes and effects

Focus on: General Haircutting Tips
• clean consistent partings
~more precise results
• extra care (danger zones)
~crown
~neckline

•
Danger zone
~ears
~keep weight
~minimal tension
• consistent tension
~maximum to minimum
~light tension-wide teeth

•
Head position
~if not upright may alter elevation and overdirection
•
Even moisture
~variable wetness=uneven results

•
Work with guideline
~cannot see guide
*subsection too thick
~BIG section=BIG mistake

•
Cross-check
~part opposite way you cut
Ex. Vertical partings for cut/ horizontal partings to check for precision

•
Use mirror
~even lines
~maintains visual balance
•
Check both sides
•
Curly hair
~shrinks ½-2”

Blunt haircut
•
Known as bob, one-length, one-level, pageboy, bowl haircuts
*head upright and straight
*bent forward
~line will not fall as you cut it
~some graduation you did not want

*use little or no tension
*length past shoulders
~minimal tension
*long hair (below the back of the styling chair)
~client stands up

Beware of crown area (danger zone)
*growth patterns
*cut this area at the very end of the haircut
*or cut it slightly longer
*once hair is dry, match the length to the guideline

Another danger zone---ears
•
Very little or no tension
Blunt cuts can be designed with or without bangs
(fringe)
*on straight, or curly hair
*short, medium, or long length

Other blunt cuts
*A-line
~diagonal cutting line
Awonderfuleverything.blogspot.com

Longer blunt
*horizontal finger angle
*little tension
On curly hair
*naturally graduates
Naturalcurlyhair.com
Wilshirewigs.com

“Bowl” shape
~perimeter is curved
~horizontal and curved cutting lines
Celebrityhairstylesnews.com
Hairstyles-tips.blogspotcom

Focus on: Tips
*minimal/no tension
*use natural growth patterns
*head upright
*comb twice before cutting
Pro.corbis.com
Awonderfuleverything.blogspot.com

*even moisture
*crown/hairline
*ears
~avoid “hole”
***stay centered-bring outside corners to you

Graduated
*vertical cutting line
*45 degree (also 90-degree elevation)
*any part (side, center, bang)
*stationary and traveling guideline
*begins in the back (45-degree elevation throughout)
*incorporates sides and top

Zimbio.com
Kidscrafts.bradandkris.com

Pictures on side bar
*shorter shape
*rounded weight
*diagonal partings
Con’t

Sides
*elevated
*over-directed
*more length
Back
*traveling guideline
*each section over-directed to previous section

Focus on: Tips
*hair “expands” when dry
*coarse textures/curly hair
~keep elevation below
45 degrees

*fine hair– great for graduation
~builds weight
~thicker/fuller
~avoid heavy weight line
~diagonal partings=softer line
~medium density-safe to elevate

*check neckline
~if hair grows straight up
-leave longer
-graduation lower
~blend
-scissor-over-comb
*fine teeth
~even tension

Uniform-layered
*90 degrees
*same length
*interior traveling guideline
*soft and rounded
*no weight or corners
*perimeter will fall softly due to reduced weight

Other examples
*1 inch length
~pixie
~crop
Greatestlook.com
Oiqot.com
~Caesar???
*men and women

*keep corners
~fingers vertical
~square shape
~men’s basic haircut
Pzazzsalon.com

Shazamhair.com
Do-short-hairstyles.blogspot.com

Haircutsformen.org
Flicker.com
Menshairstylesonline.com
Extreme corners…

*longer perimeter lengths
~shag
~top area uniform layers
~sides and back straight up
~180 degrees
Hairforbunnies.blogspot.com

Zimbio.com
Hairstyles-picture.com

Long-layered haircuts
•
Interior guide
•
Beginning at the top of the head
•
All hair will be elevated to 180 degrees to match the guide

Focus on: Tips
*cut interior first
~then perimeter
~on clinic floor
*short hair
~best on medium-thick densities
~thin hair exposes scalp

*coarse hair
~sticks out if shorter than 3”
~needs extra length
*longer layers
~thickness at bottom
~layers too short stringy perimeter

*past shoulder blades
~slide cut
~ maximum length weight
Imageandstylenews.com

Other cutting techniques
*create different effects
Cutting curly hair
*can be a challenge
*use any cutting technique
*very different results than straight hair

Examples
Figure 16-94
*hair appears stacked
*cut blunt
Figure 16-95
*volume
*hair shrinks when dry-weight line has graduated itself

Tips
*curly hair shrinks
*use minimal tension
~wide teeth
*have consistent dampness

*when dry has more volume
~leave longer
*no razor
~frizz
*texturize carefully
~avoid razor
~use point cutting
~free-hand notching

Cutting bangs
*England
~fringe
* hair that lies between the two front corners
*between outer corners of eyes
*work with the natural distribution
***one-length/90 degrees

***apex to corners of eyes
~only cut in this area
~more=short pieces where they don’t belong
Hairstyles53.com
-ruin lines
*you need not cut all hair in this area
*short bang
~strong statement

*long bang
~slide-cut
~wispy effect
*few pieces
~small portion
~razor
Latesthairstyles.com
Trendynewhairstyles.blogspot.com

*can be blended or not
*blunt cut
~not blended
*layered cut
~may want to blend

Razor cutting
*totally different result
*softer appearance
*line is not blunt
* “feathered” effect on ends
*finer blade than shears
Shears-two blades blunt ends

Beautypalace101.blogspot.com
Womenshairstylesonline.com
Womens-hairstyles.com
Zimbio.com

*create any haircut with razor
*cut horizontal, vertical, or diagonal
*guide is above fingers
*practice

Two methods
1. Parallel to subsection
~thins ends
~entire blade is used
2. Approach subsection at 45 degree angle
~one-third blade used
~small strokes

*move
~top to bottom
~side to side
Wikihow.com

Focus on: Tips
*hair in good condition
Not on:
~curly
~coarse, wiry
~over-processed
~damaged hair

*use guard
*use new blade
~dull blade-painful
~discard safely
*keep hair wet
~frizz
~painful
*work at an angle
~never force

Slide cutting
*fingers and shears glide along edge of hair
*removes length
*blending shorter to longer
*texturizing

*layer very long hair
*keep weight
*blade partially open
*on wet hair
*very sharp shears
Diamondbeautyproducts.com

Razor on outside edge of shears (both sides)
Sumukai $395.00

Two methods
*visualize the line before you cut
1. Hold subsection with tension beyond cutting line
***interior
2. Place shears on top of knuckles
~both hands move simultaneously out to the ends
***perimeter

Jolielaidesalon.com

Scissor-over-comb
*barbering technique
*hold hair in place with comb
*tips of shears removes length
*very short tapers
*extremely short to longer lengths

*start at hairline
*work your way up
*dry hair
~see how much
~maintain control
*lift away from head
*do not hold between fingers

*shear and comb
~ move simultaneously up the head
*cut with even rhythm
*stopping
~causes “steps”
~visible weight line (not wanted)

Basic steps
1. stand in front of section
*eye level
2. comb, teeth first in hairline
*teeth are angled away from the head

3. still blade (ring finger)
~parallel to comb
~thumb blade
-smoothly
-quickly
Flickr.com

4. angle comb away from head as you move up
*avoid cutting into the length

Focus on: Tips
*work small areas
*start at hairline
~work up
*cross-check
*barber comb
~close to head

Texturizing
*remove excess bulk
~without shortening length
*use for effect
~wispy
~spiky

*add volume
*remove volume
*make move
*blend
*for different densities
*done with cutting shears, thinning shears, or razor
Short.hair-styles-magazine.com
Cool-mens-hairstyles.blogspot.com

Texturizing with Shears
*point cutting
~cut ends of hair using tips, or points of shears
*wet or dry
*hold hair 1-2” from ends

*tips of scissors point into the ends
*close scissors
~move away from fingers
*cut “points”
*more vertical
~removes less
*diagonal
~removes more
~chunkier effect
Ehow.com

Beautyschoolsdirectory.com

Diamondbeautyproducts.com

Notching
*more aggressive
*chunkier effect
*toward the ends
*hold 3” from ends
Coolmenshair.com

*tips of shears in 2” from ends
*close shears as you move quickly to the ends
*wet or dry
Hair boutique.com

Lacayoshearsint.com
Wiesecutshears.com
Notching/texturizing

Free-hand notching
*use tips of shears
*snip out pieces
***random intervals
*interior
*use on curly hair
~releases curl
~removes some density
Ehow.com

Another Free-hand notching technique

Slithering
*effilating
*thinning hair to graduated lengths
*sliding movement

*blades partially open
*reduces volume
*creates movement

Short-style-hair.com

Slicing
*removes bulk
*adds movement
*never completely close scissors
*use blade near pivot
*prevents removing large pieces
Hairstyle-blog.com

*within subsection or on the surface of the hair
*shears or texturizing shears
*wet or dry
*dry
~see what you are taking away

Carving
*visual separation
*short hair
*place still blade in hair
~resting on scalp

*move through
~gently opening and partially closing
*horizonal
~removes more
*vertical
~removes less

Texturizing with the Razor
*removes weight
~thin out ends
*damp hair
*razor flat
~2-3”away from fingers

*gently stroke
~removing a thin
“sheet”
*tapers the ends

Free-hand slicing
*wet hair
*midshaft
*comb hair out from head
*hold fingers close to ends

*use TIP of razor
~slice out pieces
*vertical
~less removed
*horizontal
~more removed
*releases weight

Texturizing with Thinning Shears and
Razor
Removing bulk or removing weight
~thinning shears
~same sectioning as the haircut
*comb hair away from head
~stay 4-5” away from scalp

*may repeat towards ends
*coarse hair
~farther from scalp
*blunt cuts
~avoid top surfaces
~see lines
*curly hair
~free-hand notching

Removing weight from ends
*thinning shears
*tapers perimeter
*elevating subsection
~thinning shears at angle
~close shears a few times
~work toward ends

Scissor-over-comb with thinning shears
*good way to master technique
*blending weight lines
*sides and nape
~hair lies closer to head

Other thinning shear techniques
*any technique
*fine hair
~avoid over-texturizing
~removing too much weight

Free-hand slicing with razor
*ends of hair
*softer perimeter
*creates separation

*hold small piece of hair
~vertically
*3” from fingers
~slide down one side
~toward fingers
***not all the way through

Razor-over-comb
*used on surface of hair
*softens weight lines
*lies closer to head
~shorter haircuts

Two ways:
1. Comb in hair
~teeth down
~above area
~make small, gentle strokes
-on top of comb
~on surface of hair

*move comb down
~move razor down
*tapering nape
*soften weight lines

2. Razor rotation
*small circular motions
*comb hair in direction desired
*place razor on surface of hair
***behind comb
*comb to follow razor
*soften texture
*gives direction

Review the pictures showing texturizing techniques
Figure 16-137
Figure 16-138-free -hand razor slicing
Figure 16-139
Figure 16-140- free-hand scissors slicing
Figure 16-141
Figure 16-142- notching the ends and freehand notching

Clippers and Trimmers
*electric
*battery-operated
*shorter haircuts
~I beg to differ

*create tapers (now called fades)
~very close to hairline
~gradually get longer
*men and women womenshorthairstylesonline.com
Vtap.com

888haircut.com
Menshairstyles.net

*without length guards
~removes hair completely
~necklines
~around ears
Zimbio.com

*without
~taper hairlines
~extremely short to longer
*clipper-over-comb
~side-to-side
Shorthairfashion.blogspot.com

*with length guards
~attachments
~ 1/8 th -1”
Haircutsformen.org

Tools for Clipper Cutting
Clippers
~different shapes and sizes
~with or without attachments
Trimmers
~edgers
~cordless, smaller
Cachebeauty.com

Clean:
*after each use-
*spray disinfectant spray
~running blades
~hold down
*add one or two drops of oil
~running blades
~sides
Cachebeauty.com
Smartpakcanine.com

*disinfect detachable blades or guards
Length guard attachments
~cut all hair evenly
~1/8 th -1”
~different combinations/different lengths

Hbbb.com.au

Haircutting shears
~remove length
~detailing
Thinning shears
~blending/tapering scissors
~remove bulk
~blending

Combs
~regular cutting
~wide-teeth
-combing and cutting
~finer teeth
-detailing
-scissor-over-comb
-clipper-over-comb

*barbering
~nape
~ears
~very short
*wide-toothed
~thicker
~longer
Kingdombeauty.com

Ciao.com
Beautystoreinc.com
Carbon cutting comb $5.00
excellent
Wide-toothed-open end makes parting easier

Clipper-over-comb
*close
*flat-top
*square shape
*keep comb in position
***different from scissor-over-comb
*angle of comb
~determines amount cut

*dry hair to slightly damp hair
*lever switch
~numbered attachments
~vary the distance

Tips
1. stand in front
~eye level
2.comb, teeth first
~hairline
~angled slightly away
~work against growth pattern

3. hold comb stationary
~cut the length against comb
~move clipper right to left
4. movements fluid
~previous section is guideline

Clipper with attachments
*quick and easy
*1/4” guard on nape and sides
~swicth to ½” as you reach the
*parietal ridge
~more length
~square shape

Tips
*work against growth
*ensures lifting
~cutting evenly
*use small sections
*clipper-over-comb
~no wider than 3” across comb

C-O-C
*angle determines length
*parallel to head
~same length up head
*angled away
~begin to increase length

Men’s basic
*close bottom and sides
*positioned
~horizontally
~vertically
~diagonally

Using trimmers
*ears-hold edger sideways
*outer edge on the skin
*comb holds hair
*ears
~arcing motion
*neckline
~more defined lines at the perimeter

Trimming facial hair
*use clippers/trimmers-beards and mustaches
*similar to C-O-C
~cut against the comb
~length guard attachments
*shears
~less expensive pair
~very coarse/dulls scissors

Excess hair on eyebrows/in ears
~eyebrows-always ask client first
*remove
*shears or trimmers
*using complete focus
Review Service Tips in Procedure pages after next two slides

use eyebrow pencil to draw line if needed
Chopitupbarbershop.com

The ultimate in clipper cutting!!!
Boingboing.net