An Exploration of
the Historical
Development of
“Haute Couture”
in France
Jamie Arnold
What is “Haute Couture?”
• Haute couture is a one-of-a-kind
design that is made specifically for
buyers of French and foreign dress
shops as well as private customers.
• Haute couture replaced couture a
facon, which is dressmaking for the
individual.
• But haute couture is not to be
confused with pret-a-porter, which is
ready-made clothing.
• Who Started
“Haute Couture”
in the Fashion
Industry? Who
Were Some of the
really influential
Fashion
Designers?
Charles Frederick
Worth
• Charles Frederick Worth
initiated “haute couture”
• First Designer to develop and
produce the final product of
women’s clothing
• Set the tone for high fashion
during the latter half of the 19th
century
• Brought Paris Fashion home
to America
*Born in 1826 in England.
*At age 12, Worth began working at
Allenby’s, which was the largest
fabric store in London at the time.
*Left London for Paris in 1846 at age
20 where he began working at Gagelins
on the rue de Richelieu. They sold
shawls, ready-made coats, and fabrics.
*Worth believed that customers should
be able to choose what fabrics and trims
would be added to their garments.
• He began designing dresses for
his wife so that when customers
came to the shop, they would be
astonished and want the same
thing.
• Worth became so successful
because customers were so
intrigued, that the firm Gagelin
and Opige, created a dressmaking
workroom for him.
• In the late 1850’s, the Worth’s
opened their own business on the
rue de la Paix.
Paul Poiret
• Was born in 1879
• Began his career at the House of
Worth
• He understood the importance of
costuming famous actresses that were in
major stage productions.
• Between 1898 and 1900, he designed
costumes for Gabrielle Rejane in Zaza
and for Sarah Bernhardt in L’aiglon,
in which she played a young son of
Napoleon 1.
• Throughout his career he used the
theatre to promote his designs.
• He dominated the world of couture
between 1907 and the first World War.
• Poiret’s work was criticized by the press
because cubism, contemporary music, and
other avant-garde demonstrations were
called “Germanic” and “barbarian,”
during the time of the War.
• The fact that his creations were favorites
in Germany was used to “prove” his
sympathy for the enemy.
• WW1 brought many changes to the
couture. Poiret and other designers were
drafted into the military, and their
houses were closed.
• Many weavers and silk industry clients
were called into the army.
Gabrielle
Rejane
Sarah Bernhardt
Gabrielle
Chanel
• Born in 1883 in France
• She received the nickname “Coco”
because as a young girl, she would rise
at the crack of dawn to go horseback
riding. She was called Mlle.
“Cocorico” (Cockadoodle).
• She taught women to dare to wear fake
jewelry because she herself did, which
will probably continue forever.
• One day when she felt cold, she put on a
polo sweater, and so the idea of using
jersey for feminine clothes was born in
her mind.
• During the War, fashion began to
simplify. Extravagant decorations began
to seem inappropriate.
• Many French and English
Aristocrats had been killed in the
battles of WW1, and the postwar
cycles of depression and inflation
created instability and financial
uncertainty.
• The Fashion industry took a hit
because of these economical factors
which allowed Chanel popularity
because of the simplicity in her
designs.
Why is France known for its Haute Couture?
The garments are custom-made,
not mass-produced like in
the U.S. There is so
much work and creativity
that is put into the actual
garment, which makes it so
inspiring and cherished.
The whole world awaits for the
new Paris fashions to
trickle down to their local
malls and boutiques.
Manufacturers all over the
world will do whatever it
takes the minute they hear
what color will be
fashionable and what fabric
will be in trend.
What is a Fashion
House?
• A fashion house or “couture
house” is headed by a top designer
where new fabrics, trims, etc. are
discussed.
• Manufacturers go to couture
houses and present their new ideas
to the designers.
• There are two different
departments in a fashion house:
• The flou, which is the
dressmaking department and the
tailleur, which is the tailoring
department.
Some of the Jobs/Outcomes
of being a Fashion Designer…
Charles Frederick Worth
Empress Eugenie
• The House of Worth’s dressmakers
began serving the Empress Eugenie, the
wife of Napoleon III, in 1860, once
she had heard of Worth’s
accomplishments.
• The Empress had the House of Worth
appointed as the court dressmaker in
1860.
• After this, the Worth’s acclaimed
international success.
• Worth died in 1895, at the age of 71.
Paul Poiret
• Poiret dressed stars like Marthe
Brandes, Theo, Mary Garden,
and Reishenberg. He also worked
for the House of Worth.
• Poiret began his own House at 5,
rue Auber.
• He established the School of
Decorative Arts which he named
Martine.
• He created the minaret skirt and
a vogue for harem skirts.
Mary
Garden
Harem-skirt
Gabrielle Chanel
• Elite women of high societies
around the world wore Chanel
when she revolutionized haute
couture. She designed stage
costumes for the plays
Cocteau’s Antigone (1923)
and Oedipus Rex (1937) and
film costumes for several
movies.
Where did these designers
look for inspiration?
• Chanel found inspiration in men’s
clothing.
• Worth had been involved in retail
businesses for many years and
grew tired of the same boring
apparel.
• Poiret was inspired by Russian
peasant art and Oriental designs
They will take care of any problem
presented to them by the firms.
Its most important role is its educational
one.
The Ministry of National Education
founded the Chambre Syndicale school in
1929, which ensures training for every boy and
girl in France who shows particular interest in
needle trades or allied arts
• Is located at 102, rue du
Faubourg St. Honore, Paris,
France.
• The purpose of this Syndicale
is rarely understood by the
common people.
• There are over 900 members,
but they are divided into
categories.
• The Syndicale represents all
member establishments on law,
taxes, and on every other
question of employment.
What type of Schooling is Offered to FashionDesigners?
• Both public and private schools in
France teach sewing, millinery,
and other crafts.
• The schooling of these categories
is mandatory.
• In May of each year, the
children’s work is observed to see if
they qualify to continue their
studies.
• Those students who do, are
accepted to the Chambre Syndicale
school if they choose to go.
• The 1st year of schooling revolves
around learning sewing techniques
which are all critical to the success
of a garment.
• The 2nd year consists of learning
how to construct actual garments.
• The 3rd year students focus their
attention on women’s tailoring and
draping where they become experts
in sewing and can basically create
excellent results with the use of
any fabric
• http://video.style.com/?fr_story
=87d7fae4146be737315b5badf197
567922e27982&rf=bm
Works Cited
www.style.com
Couture Culture
Dressmakers of France
From Paris to Providence: Fashion, Art, and the Tirocchi Dressmakers