Chapter 17
(2012 Edition)
Hairstyling
•Hairstyling or dressing the hair
~ direct relation to the fashion, art,
and life of the times
•Ready-to-wear clothing
~ wash-and-wear hair
www.channelishop.com/Images/Products/Persona_...
•educate clients in
~ home care maintenance
~ styling options for their hair
•Clients will judge your
work by the finished
style
images.teamsugar.com/.../49_2007/HairStylist.jpg
•Think retro-out of style today may be back
tomorrow
www.4hairstyles.com/short/retro/pics/43.jpg
dorishinyblog.com/.../uploads/2009/06/hair.jpg
www.hairstylestalk.com/images/retro-hairstyle...
Client Consultation
•First step in the hairstyling process
•Take into consideration
~ face shape
~ hair type
~ lifestyle
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•Be a creative problem solver
•If you create a style that is flattering and
easy to manage, clients will be most
loyal
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Wet Hairstyling Basics
Tools:
•Combs
•Brushes
•Rollers
•Clips
•Pins
•Clamps
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img137.imageshack.us/img137/8393/tools1jy0.jpg
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Finger Waving
•Shaping and directing the hair into an “S”
pattern through the use of fingers, combs,
and waving lotion
•Teaches you the technique of moving and
directing the hair
www.blacknews.com/directory/images/black_hair...
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1.bp.blogspot.com/.../kGMZ48ouBpg/s400/GW.bmp
Add to side bar:
Finger waves develop:
•Dexterity (finger)
•Finger strength
•Coordination
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7
Finger Waving Lotion
•Gel that makes hair pliable, keeps hair in place
•Made from karaya gum
•Found in trees in Africa and India
•Good lotion is harmless to the hair and does not
flake when it dries
Pin Curls
Parts of a Curl
•Base-closest to the scalp
•Stem-between the base and the first arc
~ gives direction and movement
•Circle-forms a complete circle
~ size of circle determines the width of
the wave and its strength
pre2005.flexiblelearning.net.au/toolbox/demos...
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www.hairstyleschat.com/images/Bridal-Updos.jpg
Mobility of a Curl
•Stem determines the mobility or movement
No-stem curl:
-placed directly on the base
-produces tight, firm, long-lasting curl
-minimum mobility
Name the pin curls that have a no-stem curl.
Half-stem curl:
www.ritasue.co.nz/catalog/images/step9.JPG
-medium movement
-half off base
Name the pin curl with this stem.
Full-stem curl:
-greatest mobility
-off the base
-strong, definite direction (waves, not curl)
Shaping for Pin Curl Placements
~ section is molded in a circular
movement
***Ex. Maypoles
Open and Closed Center Curls
Open-smooth waves and uniform curls
Closed-smaller, fine hair, fluffy curl
Curl and Stem Direction
Terms:
•Clockwise
•Counterclockwise
Base Pin Curls or Foundations
Rectangular base:
-recommended on front hairline
-smooth upsweep effect
Name the pin curl with
this base, then add to
side bar.
i.ehow.com/.../4830569/135052-main_Full.jpg
Triangular base:
-use at front or facial hairline
-prevents breaks and splits
Arc base:
-half-moon
-gives good direction
-used at hairline
Which pin curl uses each of these bases? Add to
side bar.
farm4.static.flickr.com/3560/3576135230_2633f...
www.hji.co.uk/.../medium/1950-smooth-blonde.jpg
Square base:
-curly styles without volume
List the two pin curls that have this base.
www.ritasue.co.nz/catalog/images/step9.JPG
Add to side bar.
Add to side bar:
•Pin at the base through ½ of
the circle
•Incorrect-pinning through
whole circle
Pin Curl Techniques
•Ribboning-forcing the hair between the
thumb and the back of the comb to
create tension
***smoothes the strand/more even results
Carved or Sculptured Curls
•Formed without lifting the hair
***used to finish the hairline in
fingerwaves
Designing with Pin Curls
Barrel Curls
-large center openings
-rectangular base
-similar to roller/not as much tension
***will not last as long as rollers
Creating Volume with Pin Curls
Cascade or Stand-Up Curls
-create height
womenshair.about.com
bodycelebrity.blogspot.com
modelshairs.blogspot.com
Roller Curls
Advantages over pin curls:
•Much faster
•Wrapped with tension/stronger, longer-lasting set
•Variety of sizes
•Broadens creative possibilities
Parts of a Roller Curl
Base (section)
-same length and width as the roller
Stem
-first turn
-direction and mobility
Curl or Circle
-determines size of wave or curl
Fig. 17-29
Fig. 17-30
Determine the good and bad qualities of these
two roller sets.
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Choosing Your Roller Size
•One complete turn creates a C-shaped curl
•One-and-a-half turns create a wave
•Two-and-a-half turns create curls
Roller Placement
On base-full volume
-sits directly on its base
-over-direct (135 degree angle)
Half base-medium volume
-sits halfway on its base and halfway
behind the base
-hold strand straight up (90 degree angle)
Off base-least volume
- sits completely off base
* under-direct
- 45degrees down from base
Roller Direction
•Placement of rollers follows the movement of
the finished style
***how you set is how you comb out
Hot Rollers
•Used on dry hair
•Stay in for 10-20 minutes
•Less strong of curl than wet set (rollers)
•Stronger and longer-lasting
than curling iron
setssalon.ca/images/isinis%20hot%20rollers.jpg
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www.marieclaire.com/cm/marieclaire/images/O5/...
Velcro Rollers
Add to side bar:
Not legal in Pa beauty schools
Salons must remove hair and disinfect between
each client
•Used on dry hair
•Wet hair will snag and pull the hair
•Leave in for 5-10 minutes
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•Fabric grips hair and stays in place
•Mist hair with hairspray
•Can place client under hooded dryer for 5-10
minutes
***Review page 96 for disinfection procedure
Comb-out Techniques
•Good set leads to good comb out
•If you follow well-structured system of combing
out hairstyles, you will save time and get
more even results (on test-organized order)
*** after the tease
~ start at bottom
~ place hair as you go up to the crown
~ bring in the sides
~ top is last
Back-combing and Back-brushing Techniques
Back-combing
-called teasing, ratting, matting, or
French lacing
-mats hair at the scalp
-forms a cushion
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Back-brushing
-called ruffing
-soft cushion
Both:
-used for up-dos
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Glamour.com
-adds a little height
-after hot rollers or blow-drying
***read techniques list
Hair Wrapping
•Used to keep curly hair smooth and straight
•Very little volume-hair at scalp is not lifted
•Done on wet or dry hair
http:/www.ehow.com/video 4409310 summary-haircare...
Read “Here’s a Tip” and “Caution”
Blow-dry Styling
•Technique of drying and styling damp hair in
one operation
•Women desire hairstyles that require the least
time and effort to maintain
•Guide and educate the client through this
process
•The client’s first impression of the haircut you
have done will be determined by the
quality of the blow-dry
toolboxes.flexiblelearning.net.au/demosites/s...
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images.photos.com/thw/thw14/PH/OLA/36234743.t...
www.condenast.co.uk/.../g_j/headmasters_320.jpg
Add to side bar:
•Warm air “molds” the hair (into the desired
shape)
•Cool air “sets” and removes frizz (smoothes
and looks like a curling was used)
Demonstration on mannequin
Tools for Blow-dry Styling
Blow-dryer-an electrical appliance designed for
drying and styling the hair
Concentrator-is a directional feature
-creates a stream of air
Diffuser-air flows more softly
-keeps textural definition
www.health-store.com/.../t3_blowdryer_7414.jpg
static.oprah.com/images/omag/beauty/200903-om...
Not on test: good to know-clients will ask.
***Ionic blow dryers and curling irons infuse the hair
with beneficial negative ions that seal the hair cuticle,
eliminate frizz, and create shiny, silky, healthy hair.
***Ionic blow dryers dry hair quicker than regular
blow dryers by breaking up the water in the hair into
smaller particles which can evaporate faster.
•Keep blow-dryer perfectly clean and free of dirt,
oil, and hair
•Air intake at back of blow-dryer must be clear at
all times
•If intake is covered, dryer element will burn out
prematurely
brigknowsbest.com/.../uploads/2009/01/dryer.jpg
Combs and Picks
•Teeth closely spaced remove definition from
curl
•Creates a smooth surface
•Widely spread teeth give a more textured
surface
•Comb with pick on the one end lift the hair
away from the head
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Brushes
Classic styling brush
•Half-round, rubber based
•Seven or nine rows
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•Nylon bristles
•Heat-resistant/antistatic
•Little volume
•Less suitable for smooth classic looks
Paddle brush
•Large, flat base
•For mid-to longer-length hair
•Keeps hair from snagging
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Grooming brushes
•Mixture of boar and nylon bristles
•Boar bristles-distribute the scalp oils/gives shine
•Nylon bristles-stimulate circulation of blood to the
scalp
•Adds polish and shine to fine to medium hair
•Great for combing out updos
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Vent brushes
•Speeds up blow-dry process
•Ideal for fine hair
•And adding lift at the scalp
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www.cachebeauty.com/images/zyrca/zyrca_9540.jpg
Round brushes
•Various diameters
•Metal cylinder bases-heat transferred creates
a stronger curl
•Cooling button “sets” the hair in the new
shape
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Teasing brush
•Thin nylon styling brush
•Good for back-combing
•Use the sides of the bristles to smooth into the
desired style
Sectioning Clips
•Keep whatever wet hair you are not working
with sectioned off
•Do not allow wet hair to sit over dry hair
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Styling Products
•“liquid tools”
•Gives style more hold
•Adds shine and curl
•Takes away curl
•Greatly enhances style
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Know, to determine correct product for client:
•How long the style needs to hold
•What environmental conditions-dryness, humidity,
wind, sun
•Type of hair
•Heavier products work by causing strands of hair to
cling together, adding more pronounced
definition
•Can weigh the hair down, especially fine hair
•Range from light to very firm hold
Types of Styling Products
Foam or mousse
•light, airy, whipped styling product
•Good for fine hair
•Does not weigh hair down
•Excellent for drier, more porous hair
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www.harpersbazaar.com/.../tresemme-mousse-de.jpg
Gel
•Thickened styling preparation
•Strongest control for slicked or molded styles
•Gives distinct texture when spread with fingers
•Creates long-lasting body
•Firm-hold gel may
overwhelm fine hair
www.adiscountbeauty.com/media/americancrewgel.jpg
www.bathandunwind.com/img/products/3673.jpg
Liquid gels or texturizers
•Lighter more viscous (liquid)
•Good for all hair types
•Offer firmer, longer hold for fine hair with
least amount of heaviness
•Gives a lighter, more moderate
hold for normal or coarse
hair
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www.perfumezilla.com/product_images/aveda-hai...
Upselling
•As you style the client’s hair, talk about the
products you are using to achieve the
desired look, and why
•Have client hold product while you
demonstrate the uses and benefits of each
product
cdn-www.expertvillage.com/showImage.aspx?site…
Straightening gel
•Creates a smooth, straight look
•Counters frizz
•Temporary
•Becomes undone in extremely humid conditions
Volumizers
•Sprayed at the base of fine, wet hair
•Adds volume
•Add a light gel or mousse to the rest of the hair
for more hold
•Avoid the base (with the gel)
www.paulmitchell.com/Products/PaulMitchell/Fl...
Pomade or wax
•Adds considerable weight
•Used on dry hair
•Very easy to mold
•Greater manageability
•Use sparingly on fine hair
Excellent on short hair
* Demonstrate use
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Silicone
•Adds gloss and sheen
•While creating textural definition
•Non-oily silicone products/all hair types
•Provides protection while blow-drying
•Or at the very end for shine
•Spray shines/no weight
•Aquage “Beyond Shine”
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www.salon52.ca/ProductImages/liquid_gloss.jpg
Hair spray or finishing spray
•Form of a mist to hold style in
•Most widely used product
•Finishing spray used when style is complete and will
not be disturbed
***Build-up removal treatments work well to
cleanse the hair from all products
***Baking soda removes hair spray build up in one
minute
Page 466
•Direct the stream of air from the blow-dryer over
the curl in a back-and-forth motion
•Service Tip-page 466
•Never hold the blow-dryer too long in one place
•Always direct the hot air away from the client’s
scalp to prevent scalp burns
•Direct it from the scalp towards the ends
• Hot air flows in the direction in which the hair is
wound/improper technique will rough up the
hair, making if frizzy
Add to the side bar on Page 468:
1. Start drying at the bottom in nape area
2. Drying order:
• Scalp
• Hair shaft
• Ends
Thermal Hairstyling
Q. Who invented marcel waving in 1875?
a. Marcel Grateau
Add this to side bar
•Thermal waving/marcel waving and
thermal curling are methods of
waving and curling straight or
pressed hair using thermal irons and
special manipulative techniques on dry
hair
•Electrical or stove-heated
•Manipulative techniques/same for both irons
Thermal Irons
•Irons made of quality steel
•Even heat controlled by stylist
•Non-electrical favored by stylists catering to clients
with excessive curly hair
•Larger range of barrel or rod size
•Higher heat capabilities
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Two parts to know:
Barrel or rod
and
Shell (spoon)
Flat Irons
•Straight edges
•Creates smooth, straight styles
•Beveled edge-bends the ends
blog.buffalostate.edu/fashion/merchandising/a...
•Improving-constant even heat even on high
settings
•Ergonomic grips/lightweight
Testing Thermal Irons
•After heating, test on tissue paper
•Hold for 5 seconds
•If scorches, iron is too hot
•Let cool before placing in hair
•Overly hot will scorch hair off/discolor white hair
•Fine, lightened, or damaged=less heat
Care of Thermal Irons
•Remove dirt, oils, and product residue
•Dampen towel with soapy solution and a few
drops of ammonia (or prepared cleaners)
•Wipe barrel
•Non-electrical irons, immerse in solution
•Do not clean while turned on or still cooling
Comb Used With Thermal Irons
•Use hard rubber or other nonflammable
substance
•Have fine teeth to firmly hold the hair
Manipulating Thermal Irons
•Hold iron in a comfortable position that gives
you complete control
Temperature
•Setting depends on texture of the hair
•Fine hair, lightened or tinted, or white hair use
gentle heat (warm not hot)
•Coarse and gray hair-use more heat (hotter)
Thermal Curling with Electric Thermal Irons
•Straight hair-permits quick styling
•Pressed hair-permits styling without danger of
returning to its former extremely curly
condition
•Wigs and hairpieces-presents a quick and
effective method of styling
Curling Iron Manipulations
• Method of holding the iron is a matter of
personal preference
• Choose one-greatest ease, comfort, and
control of movement
1. Practice opening and closing at regular
intervals
2. Practice releasing the hair with quick, clicking
movements
3. Practice guiding the strand to the center of the
curl
4. Use the comb to protect the client’s scalp from
burns
Other Types of Curls
•Spiral curl-curling the hair while winding the
strand around the rod
•End curls-for short hair
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images.meredith.com/.../ss_ShortHairPhoto13.jpg
Volume Thermal Curls
•Used to create volume or lift
Volume-based thermal curls-maximum lift or
volume
-curl is very high on base (135 degree
angle)
Add: over-directed
Full-Based Thermal Curls
•Full volume
-125 degree (over-directed)
•Half-based
-moderate lift or volume
-90 degree angle
Off-based
-slight lift or volume
70 degrees
•Finished set-clip each curl in place until ready for
styling
Safety Measures (3 needed for test)
•Use only after instructions
•Keep irons clean
•Do not overheat irons
• Test temperature on tissue paper
•Avoid burning yourself or client
•Place in a safe place to cool
•Heating conventional irons do not put handle too
close to the heater
•Be sure iron is properly balanced in heater
•Use hard rubber or non flammable combs
•Celluloid combs must not be used- flammable
•Do not use metal combs/too hot/burn scalp
•Place comb between scalp and iron/prevent burns
•Hair must be cleaned and completely dry
•Do not allow ends to protrude over iron/fishhooks
•Lightened, tinted, or relaxed hair-use gentle heat
Thermal Hair Straightening (Pressing)
•Temporarily straightens extremely curly or
unruly hair with a heated comb
Three types: On test!!!!
Soft
-removes up to 50-60% of curl
-once on each side
Add -no pressure
blog.treasuredlocks.com/wp-content/uploads/20...
Medium press
-removes up to 60-75% of curl
-once on each side
-with some pressure
Hard press
myblackhairjourney.bravehost.com/press1.jpg
-removes 100% of curl
-twice on each side
Add -with pressure
•Also called double press
Read: Caution box
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Analysis of Hair and Scalp
•Before press, analyze condition of hair and
scalp
•If not healthy-give appropriate corrective
treatments
•If scalp skin disease-advise client to see a
dermatologist
•If hair shows signs of neglect-recommend a
series of conditioning treatments
•Failure to correct dry and brittle hair-results in
breakage during hair pressing
•Burned hair strands cannot be conditioned
•Check hair for elasticity and porosity
•Good elasticity-stretches about 50% (when wet)
of original length before breaking
Analysis covers:
•Wave pattern
•Length
•Texture (coarse, medium, fine)
•Feel (wiry, soft, or silky)
•Elasticity
•Color
•Condition
•Condition of scalp
Read lists
Hair Texture
•Coarse, extremely curly hair has qualities that
make it difficult to press
•Coarse-greater in diameter
•Requires more heat and pressure
•Medium curly-no special problems
-least resistant to hair pressing
•Fine hair requires special care
-less heat and pressure
•Wiry, curly hair may be coarse, medium, or fine,
and feels stiff, hard and glassy
-very resistant to pressing
-use more heat and pressure
Scalp Condition
•Classified as normal, tight, or flexible
Normal-proceed with analysis
If scalp is tight and hair coarse-press the hair in the
direction it grows
Flexible scalp-difficulty-may not be able to press
the hair satisfactorily
Record Keeping
•Keep a record of the hair and scalp analysis
•Include all pressing treatments
•Question client about lightener, tint, gradual
color (metallic), or other chemical
treatments
•Release statement (may not hold up in
Pennsylvania)
Conditioning Treatments
•Involve special cosmetic preparations for the hair
and scalp, thorough brushing, and scalp
massage
ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31REW4N8TQL._S...
https:/.../KENTUCKY%20MAID%20SPKM%2032W%20A.jpg
•Usually results in better hair pressing
Pressing Combs
•Two types-regular and electric
•Constructed of good quality stainless steel or
brass
•Handle is made of wood/does not absorb heat
•To temper a new pressing comb-heat the comb until extremely hot
-coat the comb in petroleum or pressing
-let cool down naturally
-run under hot water to remove the oil
oil
Heating the Comb
•After heating the comb, test it on a piece of light
tissue paper (end wraps or sanex strip)
•If paper scorches, allow comb to cool slightly
before applying it to the hair
Cleaning the Comb
•Will perform more efficiently if kept clean
•Clean of loose hair, grease, and dust before and
after each use
•Intense heat keeps the comb sterile
•To remove carbon-rub the outside surface and
between teeth with a fine steel wool pad or
fine sandpaper
•Place metal portion in hot baking soda solution
for 1 hour; rinse and dry
Pressing Oil or Cream
•First apply pressing oil to hair
Products have these effects:
•Makes hair softer
•Prepare and condition the hair for pressing
•Helps prevent the hair from burning or scorching
•Helps prevent hair breakage
•Condition the hair after pressing
•Add sheen to pressed hair
•Helps hair stay pressed longer
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Reminders and Hints for All Pressing
(need 3 for test)
•Good judgment=avoid damage
•Client’s safety is ensured only when stylist
observes every precaution
•Avoid excessive heat or pressure
•Avoid too much pressing oil
•Avoid perfumed pressing oil-allergic
•Avoid over frequently hair pressing
•Keep comb clean at all times
•Avoid overheating
•Test temperature on paper before applying to hair
•Adjust temperature to the texture and condition
of the hair
•Use comb carefully to avoid burning the scalp, skin,
and hair
•Prevent smoking and burning by drying the hair
completely
•Avoid excessive application of pressing oil
•Use moderately warm comb to press short hair
at temples and back of neck
Hard Press
•Only recommended when the results of a soft
press are not satisfactory
Touch-ups
•Process is the same-with shampoo omitted
Caution Box
Two types of injuries:
1. Immediate
-burned hair that breaks off
-burned scalp causing temporary or
permanent loss of hair
-burns on ears and neck that form scars
2. Not immediately evident
-skin rash if allergic to pressing oil
-breaking or shortening of the hair due
to many frequent hair pressings
Special Considerations
•Pressing fine hair
-less pressure
Add -less heat
Pressing short, fine hair
-extra care at hairline
-extra short. Comb should not be too hot
-comb causes accidental burns/painful/scars
•Immediately apply 1percent gentian violet jelly to the
burn
•Pressing coarse hair
-apply enough pressure so hair stays
straightened
•Pressing tinted, lightened, or gray hair
-might require conditioning treatments
-gray hair can be particularly resistant
-moderately heated comb, light pressure
-avoid excessive heat/discoloration/breakage
Styling Long Hair
•Updo-hairstyle with the hair arranged up and off
the shoulders
•Secured with implements like hairpins, bobby pins,
and elastics
•Special occasions
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Knot or Chignon
-true classic/popular for centuries
-created from simple ponytail
-dressed up with flowers or ornaments,or
kept simple
-very straight and silky hair-set on hot
rollers
-wavy or curly, blow-dry straight
-extremely curly-press first or leave for a
textured-looking chignon
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Basic French twist (not in textbook)
-elegant, sleek look can go anywhere
-straight, fine hair set first
***All hair is in the twist
***Level 1’s set on wet set rollers first, then combout
***review pinning on page 501
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Pleat or Classic French twist
-for weddings and black-tie events
-shape is larger
-front is designed/more creative than
basic twist
-inspect shape from every angle/well
balanced and well proportioned
***Level 2’s set hot rollers, then comb-out,
designing the front and sides
***Level 3’s no set required/ design the front/sides
Hairstyles-teacher.com
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Client Consultation
•Make sure you understand what the client has in
mind
•Pre-bridal, come in with hairpiece to try several
styles
•Take photographs to help decide which she
likes best
•Keep the photo to duplicate style on her big
day
Artistry of Hairstyling
•Master basic styles
•Create your own unique and attractive looks
•Styling trends change quickly
•Have a mannequin at home---Practice
•Create looks in magazines-try new ideas and
techniques
•Every client presents creative possibilities