CHAPTER
11
DUE
Date:
MONDAY
JANUARY
27TH
ASSIGNED TUESDAY JANUARY 21
Text Pages: 218–243
NAME___________________________
***************FIRST TEST INFORMATION STARTS HERE******************
WHY STUDY PROPERTIES OF THE HAIR AND SCALP?
1. (Trichology)
is the scientific study of hair, its diseases, and care, which comes
from the Greek words (trichos) , meaning “hair,” and (ology) , meaning “the
study of.”
2. The hair, skin, and nails are collectively known as the
(integument) .
3. Discuss why you think it is important for you to understand the growth, structure,
and composition of hair.
(Answers will vary, but may include the idea that a cosmetologist who
understands how and why hair grows will have a better understanding of
hair care, such as normal and abnormal hair loss, what creates natural color,
and what constitutes an unhealthy scalp condition. Knowledge of all of these
things will help a cosmetologist advise clients more effectively.)
STRUCTURE OF THE HAIR
4. A mature strand of human hair is divided into two parts: the (hair root) , located
below the surface of the scalp, and the (hair shaft) , the portion of the hair that
projects above the skin.
5. Match the main structures of the hair root with their description.
(b) 1. Follicle
a) Small, cone-shaped area located at the base
of the follicle
(e)
2. Bulb
b) The tube-like depression in the skin or scalp
that contains the hair root
(a)
3. Dermal papilla
c) Involuntary muscle in the base of the hair
follicle
Chapter 11 Properties of the Hair and Scalp
113
(c)
4. Arrector pili
d) The oil glands of the skin
(d)
5. Sebaceous glands
e) Thickened, club-shaped structure; forms
the lower part of the root
6. Hair follicles are distributed all over the body, with the exception of:
a)
(The palms of the hands.)
b)
(The soles of the feet.)
7. A single hair follicle will only ever produce one hair.
True
(X)
False
8. The lowest part of the hair strand is called the hair
(bulb) .
9. Which part of the root contains the blood and nerve supply that provides the
nutrients needed for hair growth? (The dermal papilla.)
10. Which muscle when contracted causes goose bumps?
(Arrector pili.)
11. The sebaceous glands secrete an oily substance called
lubricates the hair and skin.
(sebum) , which
12. Identify the parts of the skin and hair illustrated below:
(Epidermis or outer
layer of the skin)
(Hair root)
(Sebaceous or
oil gland)
(Arrector pili)
(Hair bulb)
(Dermal papilla)
13. What are the three main layers of the hair shaft?
c) (Cuticle.)
d) (Cortex.)
e) (Medulla.)
14. The outermost layer of the hair is the
(cuticle) .
15. Describe the cuticle layer. (It consists of an overlapping layer of transparent,
scale-like cells that look like shingles on a roof.)
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Chapter 11 Properties of the Hair and Scalp
© Milady, a part of Cengage Learning
(Hair follicle)
16. Describe what a healthy cuticle layer protects.
(It protects the hair from
penetration and prevents damage to hair fibers.)
17. If you hold a single strand of hair that is still attached to your head and move
your fingers down the hair shaft, the hair will feel (rough) .
18. Why must oxidation haircolors, permanent waving solutions, and chemical hair
relaxers have an alkaline pH? (They must have an alkaline pH to penetrate the
cuticle layer, swelling the cuticle and causing it to lift and expose the cortex.)
19. Which layer of the hair is the cortex?
(The middle layer.)
20. What percentage of weight of the hair comes from the cortex?
a) 50 percent
b) 70 percent
c) 80 percent
(X)
d) 90 percent
21. Name three different hair properties for which the cortex is responsible.
a) (Pigment or natural color.)
b) (Elasticity.)
c) (Weight.)
22. In what layer of the hair do changes involving oxidation haircolor, wet setting,
thermal styling, permanent waving, and chemical hair relaxing take place?
(The cortex.)
23. The (medulla) is the innermost layer of the hair and is composed of round cells.
24. All hair has three layers.
True
(X)
False
© Milady, a part of Cengage Learning
25. Identify the cross-section of a hair as illustrated below:
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Chapter 11 Properties of the Hair and Scalp
26. How many essential amino acids that are provided only by eating a healthy diet
does the body need?
a) 6
(X)
b) 9
c) 11
d) 20
27. List some good sources of amino acids.
(Proteins in meat, fish, and dairy products and food combinations such as
peanut butter and bread, rice and beans, and beans and corn are all good
sources of amino acids.)
CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF HAIR
28. Hair is composed of (protein) that grows from cells originating within the
hair follicle.
29. The maturation of these cells is a process called
(keratinization) .
30. Hair is a living thing.
True
(X)
False
Explain your answer: (When the hair shaft emerges from the scalp, the cells of
the hair are completely keratinized and are no longer living.)
31. List the main elements that make up human hair and their percentage in
normal hair.
a) (Carbon—51%.)
b) (Oxygen—21%.)
c) (Hydrogen—6%.)
d) (Nitrogen—17%.)
e) (Sulfur—5%.)
32. Together, the five elements that make up human hair are known as the (COHNS)
elements to help people remember them; they are also found in the (skin) and
the (nails) .
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Chapter 11 Properties of the Hair and Scalp
33. Match each of the following terms with its description.
(b)
1. Amino acid
a) The chemical bond that links amino acids
(d)
2. Helix
b) The unit of structure that build proteins
(a)
3. Peptide bond
c) A long chain of amino acids linked by
peptide bonds
(c)
4. Polypeptide chain
d) The spiral shape of a coiled protein
34. Polypeptide chains are cross-linked together using three different types of side
bonds called:
a) (Hydrogen bonds.)
b) (Salt bonds.)
c) (Disulfide bonds.)
35. A (hydrogen) bond is a weak physical side bond that is easily broken by water
or heat; these bonds reform when the hair (dries) .
36. Weak, temporary side bonds between adjacent polypeptide chains are
bonds.
(salt)
37. A (disulfide) bond is a strong chemical side bond that joins the sulfur atom of
two neighboring cysteine amino acids to create cystine.
38. How are the hair’s strong chemical side bonds broken?
(By permanent waves
and chemical hair relaxers that alter the shape of hair or by boiling water and hightemperature thermal styling tools.)
39. (Melanin) are the tiny grains of pigment that give natural color to the hair. List
and describe the two different types.
a) (Eumelanin—provides brown and black color to hair.)
b) (Phoemelanin—provides colors ranging from red and ginger to
yellow/blond tones.)
40. How is gray hair different from other hair colors?
(Gray hair is missing the
melanin pigment that gives hair color; otherwise, it has the same structure as
pigmented hair.)
41. The (wave pattern) of the hair refers to the shape of the hair strand and is
(extremely curly) .
described s (straight), (wavy), (curly,) and
Chapter 11 Properties of the Hair and Scalp
117
42. Natural wave patterns are the result of
(genetics) .
43. Asians tend to have (straight) hair, while African Americans tend to have
(extremely curly) hair; however, this is not a hard-and-fast rule and many
exceptions exist.
44. In extremely curly hair, cross-sections are usually
(flattened ovals) .
45. The shape of a cross-section of hair always relates to the amount of curl in
the hair.
True
(X)
False
46. Extremely curly hair may have
(low) elasticity.
HAIR GROWTH
47. The two main types of hair found on the body are
(terminal) hair.
(vellus) hair and
48. Describe vellus hair. (Short, fine, and downy; not pigmented and almost never
has a medulla.)
49. On adults, vellus hair is usually found on the
(forehead, eyelids, and bald scalp,
as well as nearly all other parts of the body except the palms and soles of
the feet.)
.
(less) vellus hair than women.
50. Men retain
51. Describe terminal hair. (Long, soft hair; coarser than vellus hair, usually contains
a medulla, and is pigmented—except for gray hair.)
52. Terminal hair is found on the (scalp, legs, arms, and bodies of males and
females)
.
53. All hair follicles are able to produce both vellus and terminal hair.
(X)
True
False
54. Unscramble these words, then match each word with its correct description.
gloeten
118
neanag
agatecn
(Anagen)
The growth phase of new hair
(Catagen)
The transition phase
(Telogen)
The resting phase
Chapter 11 Properties of the Hair and Scalp
55. What is the average growth of healthy scalp hair per month?
a) ¼ inch (0.6 cm)
(X)
b) ½ inch (1.25 cm)
c) ¾ inch (1.8 cm)
d) 1 inch (2.5 cm)
56. When does hair tend to grow most rapidly?
a) Between the ages of 8 and 13
b) Between the ages of 15 and 20
(X)
c) Between the ages of 15 and 30
d) Between the ages of 40 and 50
57. What percentage of scalp hair is in the catagen phase at any one time?
(X)
a) 1 percent
b) 5 percent
c) 10 percent
d) 15 percent
58. What percentage of scalp hair is in the telogen phase at any one time?
a) 1 percent
b) 5 percent
(X)
c) 10 percent
d) 15 percent
59. How frequently does the average hair growth cycle take to repeat itself?
(Every four to five years.)
60. Shaving, clipping, and cutting the hair makes it grow back faster, darker, and
coarser.
True
(X)
False
61. Scalp massage increases hair growth.
True
(X)
False
Chapter 11 Properties of the Hair and Scalp
119
62. Gray hair is coarser and more resistant than pigmented hair.
True
(X)
False
63. A cross-section of hair can be almost any shape, and its shape does not
necessarily relate to the amount of curl in the hair.
(X)
True
False
HAIR LOSS
64. It is normal to lose some hair every day.
(X)
True
False
65. The average rate of hair loss is
(35 to 40) hairs per day.
66. Describe why bald and balding men are emotionally affected by their hair loss.
(Research has shown that people negatively stereotype bald and balding men,
considering them less attractive, assertive, successful, and likeable, while also
perceiving them as older than their true age. These negative impressions are
harmful to men who are experiencing hair loss, particularly if they have lower
self-esteem.)
67. While less common than in men, hair loss also affects women.
(X)
True
False
68. Abnormal hair loss is called (alopecia) .
69. (Androgenic alopecia) , or androgenetic alopecia, is the result of genetics, age,
and hormonal changes that cause miniaturization of terminal hair, converting it to
(vellus) hair.
70. In men, androgenic alopecia is known as (male pattern baldness) and usually
progresses to the familiar horseshoe-shaped fringe of hair.
71. By the age of 35, what percentage of men and women show some degree of
hair loss? (Almost 40%.)
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Chapter 11 Properties of the Hair and Scalp
72. How many people does androgenic alopecia affect in the United States?
(X)
a) Millions
b) Thousands
c) Hundreds
73. What is alopecia areata? (It is an autoimmune disease that causes the affected
hair follicles to be mistakenly attacked by a person’s own immune system, with
white blood cells stopping the hair growth phase.)
74. Alopecia areata that progresses to total scalp hair loss it is called (alopecia
totalis) . When it results in complete body hair loss, it is called (alopecia
universalis) .
75. Jane, a client at your salon, gave birth to her first baby three months ago. When
she comes in for a service, she complains that her hair seems to be shedding.
This condition is called (postpartum alopecia) . You reassure Jane that her hair
growth cycle should eventually return to (normal) within about (one year) .
76. What are the only two products that have been proven to stimulate hair growth
and are approved by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA)? (Minoxidil and
finasteride.)
77. A topical medication that is applied to the scalp twice a day, and is sold overthe-counter as a nonprescription drug, is (Minoxidil) ; the most commonly
known product that contains this drug is called (Rogaine) .
78. (Finasteride) is an oral prescription medication for men only and is more
effective and convenient than its nonprescription counterpart.
79. Why are pregnant women warned against having any contact with the oral
prescription medication used to treat hair loss in men? (Because it has shown
a high potential for causing birth defects; pregnant women should not even
touch one of the finasteride tablets.)
80. Describe the most common surgical treatment for hair loss.
(Hair transplant is a process that consists of removing small sections of
hair, including the follicle, papilla, and bulb, and transplanting them into the
bald area.)
81. What nonmedical options can a hairstylist offer to counter hair loss?
(Wigs, toupees, hair weavings, and hair extensions.)
Chapter 11 Properties of the Hair and Scalp
121
82. Abnormal hair loss may also be a side effect of
(radiation) cancer treatments.
(chemotherapy) or
83. Summarize the different possible causes of hair loss.
(Age, genetics, hormonal changes, autoimmune disorders, pregnancy, and
medical treatments, such as chemotherapy and radiation treatments. Gender
also plays a role as men are more likely to experience hair loss than women,
although women are affected, too.)
DISORDERS OF THE HAIR
84. Match each of the following hair disorders with its description.
(b)
1. Canities
a) A condition of abnormal growth of hair
(f)
2. Ringed hair
b) Technical term for gray hair
(a)
3. Hypertrichosis
c) Knotted hair
(g)
4. Trichoptilosis
d) Technical term for beaded hair
(c)
5. Trichorrhexis nodosa
e) Technical term for brittle hair
(d)
6. Monilethrix
f) Characterized by alternating bands of
gray and pigmented hair
(e)
7. Fragilitas crinium
g) Technical term for split ends
85. There are two types of canities. They are
canities
86. In addition to genetics, (anxiety)
gray hair.
an
d
(congenital canities) an
d
(illness)
(acquired)
may also cause premature
87. What is an example of hypertrichosis? (A mustache or light beard on women.)
What are possible treatments? (Electrolysis, photoepilation, laser hair removal,
shaving, tweezing, electronic tweezers, depilatories, epilators, threading,
and sugaring.)
88. Softening the hair with conditioners and moisturizers is often used in the
treatment of (trichorrhexis nodosa) and may also help (trichoptilosis) , but
will not repair the damage.
********SECOND TEST INFORMATION STARTS HERE*************************************
DISORDERS OF THE SCALP
89. How many pounds of dead skin does the average person shed each year?
(9 pounds [4 kg].)
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Chapter 11 Properties of the Hair and Scalp
.
90. What is the difference between dry scalp and dandruff?
(Dry scalp is dry, and
the flakes are much smaller and less noticeable; dandruff occurs with an oily
scalp and has larger flakes.)
91. Match each of the following scalp disorders with its definition.
(d)
1. Pityriasis
a) Medical term for ringworm
(a)
2. Tinea
b) Dry, sulfur-yellow, cup-like crusts on the
scalp called scutula
(f)
3. Tinea capitis
c) An acute, localized bacterial infection of the
hair follicle
(b)
4. Tinea favosa
d) Medical term for dandruff
(h)
5. Scabies
e) An inflammation of the subcutaneous
tissue caused by staphylococci
(g)
6. Pediculosis capitis
f) Fungal infection characterized by red
papules, or spots at the opening of the hair
follicles
(c)
7. Furuncle
g) The infestation of the hair and scalp with
head lice
(e)
8. Carbuncle
h) Caused by a parasite called a “mite”
92. Research confirms that dandruff is the result of a fungus called
naturally occurring fungus that is present on all human skin.
(malassezia) , a
93. What is the treatment for dandruff? (Frequent use of an antidandruff shampoo,
along with good personal hygiene and proper sanitation techniques.)
94. List the two principle types of dandruff and give their characterizations.
a) (Pityriasis capitis simplex—characterized by scalp irritation, large flakes, and
an itchy scalp.)
b) (Pityriasis steatoids—characterized by an accumulation of greasy or waxy
scalp scales, mixed with sebum, that stick to the scalp in crusts.)
95. What is seborrheic dermatitis? (It is a form of pityriasis steatoids that is also
accompanied by redness and inflammation.)
96. Name some causes of dry scalp. (Causes of dry scalp include contact
dermatitis, sunburn, and extreme age. Living in a cold, dry climate may make
the condition worse.)
Chapter 11 Properties of the Hair and Scalp
123
97. It is appropriate to perform a service on a client who has a severe case
of dandruff.
True
(X)
False
98. What does tinea look like? (It is characterized by itching, scales, and
sometimes painful circular lesions.)
99. Tinea is contagious.
(X)
True
False
100. Ringworm is caused by a parasite.
True
(X)
False
101. What does tinea barbae affect? (The coarse hairs in the mustache and
beard areas of the neck and scalp.)
102. Which of the following conditions has a distinctive odor?
a) Tinea barbae
b) Scabies
(X)
c) Scutula
d) Head lice
103. List the ways head lice are transmitted from an infected person to a
noninfected person. (Through contact with infested hats, combs, brushes,
and other personal articles.)
104. As a cosmetologist, what are two ways you can help prevent the spread of
infectious conditions?
(First, by being able to recognize an infectious condition or disorder and
not performing a service on that client. Second, by properly practicing state
board approved cleaning and disinfection procedures.)
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Chapter 11 Properties of the Hair and Scalp
HAIR AND SCALP ANALYSIS
105. What special tools does a cosmetologist need in order to perform a
hair analysis?
(None. A cosmetologist uses his or her powers of observation, relying on the
senses of sight, touch, hearing, and smell, to perform a hair analysis.)
106. Explain the connection between hair analysis and retailing.
(You will not be able to recommend appropriate, effective products
and services to your client until you perform a complete analysis of his
or her hair. Once you have done this, you will be able to make valuable
recommendations on products they may use at home. This in turn
encourages clients to return for future services and fosters their trust in
your skill.)
107. List and define the four most important factors to consider in hair analysis.
a) (Texture—the thickness or diameter of the individual hair strand.)
b) (Porosity—the ability of the hair to absorb moisture.)
c) (Elasticity—the ability of the hair to stretch and return to its original length
without breaking.)
d) (Density—measures the individual hair strands on one square inch
[2.5 square cm].)
108. What are the classifications of hair texture?
a) (Coarse.)
b) (Medium.)
c) (Fine.)
109. All hair on a person’s head has the same texture.
True
(X)
False
110. Which hair texture has the largest diameter?
(Coarse hair.)
111. Which hair texture is the most common and is the standard?
(Medium hair.)
112. Which hair texture has the smallest diameter and is more fragile?
(Fine hair.)
113. Which hair texture usually requires extra processing when applying a product
like haircolor? (Coarse hair.)
Chapter 11 Properties of the Hair and Scalp
125
114. Hair density can be classified as:
a) (Low or thin.)
b) (Medium.)
c) (High or thick/dense.)
115. Hair density and hair texture are essentially the same thing.
True
(X)
False
116. The average hair density is about (2,200) hairs per square inch
(2.5 square cm), and the average head of hair contains about (100,000)
individual hair strands.
117. Which hair color typically has the lowest density?
a) Brown
b) Blond
(X)
c) Red
d) Black
118. The hair’s ability to absorb moisture is its
(porosity) .
119. The degree of porosity is directly related to (the condition of the cuticle layer) .
Why? (Healthy hair with a compact cuticle layer is naturally resistant to
penetration; porous hair has a raised cuticle layer that easily absorbs water.)
120. A term that means resistant to being penetrated by moisture is
(hydrophobic) ; a term that means absorbs water easily is (hydrophiloic)
121. Chemical services performed on overly porous hair require
(less alkaline solutions)
122. Hair with average porosity is considered
is (damaged, dry, fragile, and brittle)
True
False
124. Describe how to check porosity. (On dry hair, take a strand of several hairs
from four different areas of the head. Hold the strand securely with one
hand while sliding the thumb and forefinger of the other hand from the end
to the scalp.)
126
Chapter 11 Properties of the Hair and Scalp
.
(normal) . Overly porous hair
123. Hair texture always indicates the hair’s porosity; for example, coarse hair
always has a low porosity.
(X)
.
.
125. In a porosity check, if the hair feels smooth,
(the cuticle is compact, dense,
and hard, and is considered resistant) .
126. In a porosity check, if you can feel a slight roughness,
(the hair is
considered porous) .
127. In a porosity check, if the hair feels very rough or dry or breaks,
(it is considered highly porous and may have been overprocessed) .
128. The ability of the hair to stretch and return to its original length without breaking
is its (elasticity) .
129. Hair elasticity is an indication of (the strength of the side bonds that hold
the hair’s individual fibers in place) .
130. Wet hair with normal elasticity will stretch up to (50 percent) of its original
length and return without breaking. Dry hair stretches about (20 percent) of
its length.
131. Which of the following statements is true of hair with low elasticity?
a) Chemical services will require a solution with a higher pH.
b) Hair services should not be performed at all.
(X)
c) It may not hold a permanent wave as easily.
132. Hair growth patterns are caused by follicles that grow perpendicular (90-degree
angle) to the scalp.
(X)
True
False
133. Knowing if a client has a hair growth pattern is an important consideration
when helping them select a hairstyle or haircut.
(X)
True
False
134. Match each of the following terms with its description.
(a)
a) Hair stream
a. Hair following in the same direction
(c)
b) Whorl
b. A tuft of hair that stands straight up
(b)
c) Cowlick
c. Hair that forms in a circular patter
Chapter 11 Properties of the Hair and Scalp
127
135. Which of the following is not a cause of dry hair and scalp?
a) Winter weather
b) Desert climate
c) Inactive sebaceous glands
(X)
d) Active sebaceous glands
136. Oily hair and scalp is caused by (improper washing) or (overactive)
sebaceous glands and is characterized by a greasy buildup on the scalp and
an oily coating on the hair.
137. Dry hair and scalp can be caused by inactive
aggravated by excessive (shampooing) .
(a greasy buildup on the scalp and
138. Oily hair and scalp is characterized by
an oily coating on the hair)
128
(sebaceous glands) and is
.
Chapter 11 Properties of the Hair and Scalp