Women’s control underwear - Shapewear Importadores y Distribuidores Lex van Boeckel – Searce March 2013 “The woman is the most perfect doll that I have dressed with delight and admiration.” However Nobody is perfect and... No Body is perfect But ... There are ways to hide your imperfections by SHAPEWEAR SHAPEWEAR IN GERMANY • BELLY AND WAIST SHAPERS/CLINCHERS Ex. Corsets, pantys, girdles, high waist briefs... • LEGS AND PO-SHAPERS Ex. Bottom-booster pants, pantyhoses... • SHAPEWEAR BRAS Ex. Push-up bra – maximizer, minimizer... • MULTI-SHAPERS Ex. Body suits, control dresses.... SHAPEWEAR IN GERMANY CONTENTS Market & Market segments Trade channels Product characteristics Product marketing Buyer requirements Seasonality & Delivery Business practice Prices & Competitiveness THE EU AND GERMAN MARKET Shapewear MARKET SIZE – EU shapewear market € 1,076 million. – UK, Italy, France were largest markets – German share was 10%. – Spain, NL, Belgium, Poland, Sweden..... growing medium-sized EU markets. – In 2011 German the shapewear market € 180 million. – Representing 6.5% of intimates market (total: € 2,784 million). THE GERMAN MARKET Shapewear MARKET DEVELOPMENTS FAST GROWTH SINCE 2006 – More awareness among women of all ages. – Alternative to cosmetic surgery. – No longer feeling ashamed. – More variety in shapewear. THE MARKET Shapewear – Problem areas German consumers PROBLEMS – 85% shape of their belly. – 43% shape of their waist or hips. – 9% want to control their breasts. MOST POPULAR PRODUCTS – Belly High waist briefs, panty’s and girdles. – Waist Waist clinchers and body’s. – Bum/ Maxi briefs, long panty’s, Legs leggings and pantyhoses THE GERMAN MARKET Shapewear – Market segments CONSUMERS – Middle aged and older women. Shapewear helps to wear dresses and other RTW clothing o Every day or formal occasions – Younger women. Shapewear helps to hide small defects, or to show their sensual curves. o When wearing tight clothing o Essential complement to their clothing wardrobe PRODUCTS – Functional shapewear that controls and enhance the body. Fabrics > 200 gram/m² – Fashionable shapewear that sculpts and smoothens the body. Fabrics < 200 gram/m² THE GERMAN MARKET Shapewear GROWING NICHES Bridal shapewear, e.g. body´s (breathable fabrics). Shapewear for specific situations, Maternity, Post-surgery. Sports shapewear in swimwear and fitnesswear. Health & Well-being e.g. for Thermal control or for an Improved body position. Shapewear for men e.g. tops and undershirts. THE MARKET Shapewear – Trends and Colours MARKET TRENDS - Return to healthier and fuller figures. - Need for Performance and Comfort. - Functional shapewear becomes more fashionable. - Fashionable shapewear becomes showy and sexier. - Worn as outerwear or as lingerie. - More expressive prints. PREFERRED COLOURS - Functional shapewear white, skin tones, pink, (light) blue, grey and black. - Fashionable shapewear depends on seasonal trends with many pastel colours. THE MARKET - SUMMER FASHION 2013 - High waist briefs - Body suits - Camisoles THE MARKET Shapewear – Forecast and Opportunities FORECAST – German retailers - 60% expand range and brands. – Shapewear is not a "fad’’. – More competition. OPPORTUNITIES – – – – Flexible, breathable fabrics. True specialisation. Focus on niches. Design • belly areas, • Using cuts/cut-outs, • using shaping-seams. – Organic shapewear • Beech fibres, bamboo, silk, latex. TRADE CHANNELS Shapewear – Channels for Bodywear (incl. Shapewear) IMPORTING MANUFACTURERS - Buy direct and sell direct - Sell to (importing) retailers (incl. home shopping). IMPORTING RETAILERS - Take up 80% of the market with dedicated manufacturers for private labels. IMPORTING WHOLESALERS - Operate per Nielsen area (8) also in Austria, CH, Eastern EU. NON- IMPORTING RETAILERS - Buy via traditional route Wholesalers, agents and from Importing manufacturers. PRODUC CHARACTERISTICS Shapewear – Product needs NEED FOR BETTER QUALITY: • Better shaping performance • Comfortable to wear • Easy to put the shapewear on/off • Perfect fit - after wearing them several times • Good design (fashionable shapewear). – Functional shapewear should be: • Light-weight • Not visible. Perfect !? It depends on the consumer and on what parts to control Ask what would be best for them. PRODUCT CHARACTERISTICS Shapewear – Comfort & Performance MORE COMFORT: - Lightweight material (ease of movement) - Pleasant feel (softer to wear) - Breathable material - Anti-moisture control technology. MORE PERFORMANCE: - Using material of an incredible elasticity. - Combinations of different material (polyamide, lycra..) and elastan. PRODUCT CHARACTERISTICS Shapewear – Sizes SIZES - The average German women is 1.68 cm tall, weights 67.5 kg. - Standard sizes in Germany range between 36 and 46. Most often for shapewear, the sizes S, M, L and XL are used, and sometimes XS and 2XL, or recently 2X up to 4X. Size XS/S S/M M/L L/2XL New 2X/3X New 3X/4X Germany USA 34/36 41-55 kg. 0-4 LBS 90 - 120 38/40 41-55 kg. 0-6 LBS 90 - 120 40/42 50-63 kg. 8-12 LBS 110-140 42/44 59-82 kg. 14-18 LBS 130-180 46/50 82-114 kg. 20-24 LBS 180-250 52/54 104-129 kg. 26-30 LBS 230-285 Cup A-B-C A-B-C-D A-B-C-D-DD A-B-C-D-DD B-C-D-E-F B-C-D-E-F It is very important to point out to consumers to wear the right sizes. If the shapewear hurts, there is definitely something wrong. Tighter shapewear is not better, it can even be injurious! PRODUCT MARKETING Shapewear - Presentation HOW TO PRESENT YOUR SHAPEWEAR? - In addition to Colombian reputation – What is your USP? - Special skills, material, designers, culture, music... Express to consumers by: - Instore material such as retail packaging, special labels, display racks, mobiles, posters, flyers, brochures etc.. - Outdoor presentation material being more expensive (billboards, on public transport) to increase awareness. Express to buyers (retailers, importing manuf.) by: - Fashionable shapewear collections in a ‘Sales Book’. - Interrelationship of shapewear with e.g. dresses, trousers jeans, pants, blouses, swimwear, footwear, jewellery etc. PRODUCT MARKETING Shapewear - Communication THE MESSAGE - Use short to-the-point message. - Convincing by Problem, Solution and Testimonials - Must be in German. PROMOTION TOOLS – Website of a good quality – Advertising and publicity – Videos (YouTube) – – – – – Buzz via social networking site - Funny story contest Promotion (gift vouchers, window displays etc.) Networking with niche retailers Celebrities or local designers German re-looking, re-dressing programmes. PRODUCT MARKETING Shapewear – Events and Trade shows MOST IMPORTANT TRADE SHOWS. – Wasche und mehr - for bodywear in Dortmund. – Dessous Wallau - for bodywear in Wallau. – CPD - the International Trade Fair for Womenswear and Accessories in Düsseldorf. – Munich Fabric Start, the fair for clothing fabrics. – Specific trade shows (health & well-being, medical...). Participate by yourself or with other parties. Or check the sites for a list of exhibitors (potential buyers). BUYER REQUIREMENTS Shapewear – Requirements to enter the German market LEGAL REQUIREMENTS – Safe to all consumers (Direction 2001/957EC). – Flame retardants (REACH Regulation EC 1907/2006). – Other REACH regulations concerning the use of : • Chemicals, Azo dyes, Organotin compounds or nonyl phenols ethoxylates. – Liability for defective products (sale of goods act 1979). Specifically for Germany: • Avoid the use of disperse dyes in textiles (hazardous to health). • Limited use of formaldehyde to make fabrics crease-resistant. NON-LEGAL REQUIREMENTS – The Environmental labels – Social labels (ISO 14001) – Private standards BUYER REQUIREMENTS Shapewear – Packaging and Labelling PACKAGING - Functional shapewear individually packed Fashionable - Fancy and appealing boxes Preferably in German, or in 4 languages In lower segment sold on racks. Most bras are also sold on racks. Add convenience in distribution and Re-cycling in packaging LABELLING - On the article: fibre content, origin, size, washing instruction. - Additional quality labels or small booklets SEASONALITY & DELIVERY Shapewear – Delivery and Trends in Buyer behaviour DELIVERY AND TERMS – Due to the recession smaller orders and more frequently – Minimize the time-to-market and replenishment lead times for seasonal fashion products. – Typical lead-times: • Nearby countries 8 – 10 days. • Other continents 3 – 8 weeks. – Usually Inco terms are used – Payment for the first shipment is a letter of credit (L/C). – Some retailers insist on payment after delivery (usually 30 days). TRENDS IN BEHAVIOUR OF BUYERS OPPORTUNITIES Back-up suppliers Reduction of reliance on China Sense of cooperation and a need for more transparency. BUSINESS PRACTICE Shapewear – Contacts with clients CONTACTS WITH GERMAN CLIENTS – Right contact person – Contacts are by email, phone, skype (later SMS). – First formal approach in person, by e-mail or by phone. – German is highly appreciated. But, English is widely spoken. Russian (2nd) in the former eastern part. – Women in higher positions. – Say what you think. – Constant communication allows a sense of collaboration. – Track the arrival of the product. PRICES & COMPETITIVENESS Shapewear – Prices and Price setting Retail price of shapewear in Germany, 2012 RETAIL PRICES Brand Retail price Chantelle € 33* Kunert € 14 - 24 € 8 - 16 Panty Triumph Hanro € 42 – 70* € 60 € 14 Legging ShaToBu Spanx € 40 - 70 € 43 - Prices of private labels are much lower. High waist brief PRICE SETTING AND ADJUSTMENTS Triumph Wolford Hanro € 28 -40 € 44-120 € 50-150 Pro-booster Spanx € 99* Triumph Hanro Magic body fashion € 39 - 70 € 60 € 25-40 Body suit Triumph Spanx Hanro € 60 – 115* € 50-110* € 80-120 Body dress Triumph € 55 – 120* Body skirt Triumph € 33* Maidenform Spanx € 40-50 € 99* Anita € 57 - Middle and upper segments are less price sensitive. - Willing to pay for a product/brand that makes them look good. - Your prices to buyers can be in FOB, C&F or CIF. - Import duties are between 0 and 12%. But reduction to 0% by GSP rates. - Note the currency risks – so adapt your quotations! Corsette Panty hose Top / Camisole Bra push up Bra super push up Bra minimizer Private label price € 16 - 22 € 22 COMPETITIVENESS Shapewear – Competitors (Countries and Players) MAIN SUPPLYING COUNTRIES – EU suppliers: Hungary, Austria, Netherlands... – Developing countries: China (all products), Indonesia (all products), Ukraine (corselet's), Bangladesh (underwear, bras, girdles), Honduras (corselet's, girdles), Morocco (underwear, girdles), Turkey (underwear, panty hoses, girdles), Mexico (corset's), Pakistan and Croatia. MAIN PLAYERS – Triumph (Swiss-owned) - combining function, innovation and style. – Spanx (US-owned) is a true shapewear specialist combining performance and fashionable sophistication. – Prima Donna, an intimates and shapewear specialist. – Anita (German-owned), a bodywear and shapewear specialist (see photo). – Wolford, Hanro, Magic Body Fashion, Wacoal, Maidenform and Yummie-Tummie. Growing competition with new specialised entrants. But also with swimwear, lingerie and clothing companies/fashion houses and retailers introducing shapewear. CONCLUSIONS Shapewear Fast growing market among German women of all ages who become more aware. Obesity is still growing. The belly and waist are the main parts of the body to be controlled. High-waist briefs, panty’s, girdles, waist clinchers and multi-shapers most in demand. Choose your segment - Functional, Fashionable, combination – or to focus on niches. Competition intensifies in the lower end of the market. But consumers want better quality. Fabric technology, new product functions will be crucial for success. Fabric innovation combined with fashion trends at an affordable price will PERFECTLY respond to the growing demand. “To do better is better than to be perfect.” TRADE CHANNELS Shapewear – Positioning of main retailers – Most in the lower and value (middle) level of the market. – Main are Hunkemöller (134) and Triumph (108). – Discounters Aldi (4,000) and Lidl (3,260), mainly functional shapewear. – Calida Group (161 outlets) specialised underwear retailer. SEASONALITY & DELIVERY Shapewear - Seasons COLLECTIONS PER YEAR – Functional shapewear is sold throughout the whole year and has a long lifecycle. – Fashionable shapewear follows the spring/summer and autumn/winter seasons of apparel. ACTUAL SEASON Show Season - Spring – April, May, June September / October - Summer – July, August, September - Autumn (Fall) – October, February / March November, December - Winter – January, February, March - Holiday (formals / Christmas/ New Year) - Cruise / Resort (for travelling and holidays) Selling Season Delivery date August / September / January to April October February / March / April July / August / September June / July October / November / SEASONS – Two fashion seasons are sometimes adjusted by mid-season additions e.g. for Valentine’s day or Christmas. – Usual retailers’ selling out seasons are in summer (August - September) and in winter (December through February).