FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs)
1. Recommend a liquid hair oil that I can use right after plaiting because
my scalp hurts.
-A painful scalp right after braiding, is an indication that the roots have
been over manipulated thus making the scalp tender. The fastest
remedy would be to soothe the roots in the following ways;
-MOIST HEAT-this eases the tightness at the roots thus eliminating
tenderness. Apply a moisturizing leave-in conditioner gently on the
scalp, or spray a thin leave-in conditioner on your roots and wrap a
damp hottish towel around your head. Or turn on your shower to hot
and close the door and let the steam work its magic. Keep gently
massaging in the conditioner.
-MASSAGE SCALP WITH SOOTHING OILS-Keep gently massaging the
scalp daily to ease the pain. Use an oil that contains lavender essential
oil (for its soothing qualities) or tea tree (works to ease the
inflammation), ensure that the oil has been warmed up before
massaging it onto the scalp. Another option is a medicated braid spray
because many of these have been formulated with scalp inflammations
in mind. Look for a spray that contains tea tree or lavender essential oils
or sulphur. Aloe Vera has soothing qualities too,if you have it in gel form
simply massage into the tender spots if you have the juice then spray it
daily on your roots till the pain diminishes.
-If the pain persists, please undo the braids/cornrows because it can lead
to traction alopecia (hair loss caused by stress and over manipulation of
the hair roots)
2. How does one achieve soft, easily combed hair in a short time?
-Hair softness and hydration go hand in hand; one can’t be achieved
without the other. So they key to softness is to inject as much moisture
as possible in your hair and to be able to do this FAST rather than
gradually follow the following tips;
-HUMECTANTS-These attract humidity from the environment into your
hair, be careful though when the climate is dry they will draw out
moisture from your hair into the environment, so when the weather
gets progressively dry it means it is time to set aside the humectants.
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The most common humectants used in hair and skin care are glycerine,
aloe Vera, honey, hydrolysed proteins, panthenol, sodium lactate,
fructose etc.-some of these are ingredients commonly found in hair
products. Glycerine, honey, molasses and aloe Vera can easily be
incorporated in your hair regiment like adding them to your conditioner
(both store bought and DIY) OR add glycerine or aloe Vera to your
homemade spritz.
-DEEP CONDITION, DEEP CONDITION, DEEP CONDITION! This is the key
to well moisturized hair furthermore deep conditioned hair is always
soft. Best to do this every wash day. Add a humectant to your deep
conditioner to give hair that extra softness, or a mashed fruit like banana
or avocado. These have extra softening abilities and including fruits in
your DIY deep conditioners will add fructose (a fruit sugar) which is a
humectant. No softening and deep conditioner is complete without
coconut milk.
-Specialized softening and moisturizing treatments like the Caramel
Treatment, Cherry Lola Treatment, Maximum Hydration Method and the
Coconut Milk Treatment. These treatments have specially selected
natural ingredients that work together to maximize moisture absorption
and softness.
-HOT OILS AND OIL RINSING- A hot oil treatment involves warming up
oil and applying it to your hair, you then cover with a plastic cap for a
period of 30 mins-1 hour. This method is a very effective for moisture
retention and softening hair. OIL RINSING means layer oil on your hair
before adding your conditioner on top of that. Cover it up for a specified
period. This is a hair softener that never fails and it adds shine to the hair
too.
-LOC-This stands for Liquid, Oil and Cream and it is method of layering
these products on your hair in this order so as to maximize moisture
retention. You can follow this order or the LCO method. Liquid stands for
the moisture to be absorbed in the hair and in this case the ultimate
moisturizer is water. If you feel your hair is weak and needs a boost in
strength then u can mix some aloe Vera juice or a herbal rinse in your
water. Oil represents any natural oil like coconut oil, olive oil, sesame oil
etc. Please avoid synthetic oil like silicones or petroleum based oils like
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petrolatum, mineral oil as these coat the strands and scalp and smothers
their ability to breathe. Cream stands for heavier oils like butters e.g.
Shea butter, mango butter, kukui nut butter. For most the cream
represents a creamy leave-in conditioner (these tend to be more
moisturizing because they are water based rather than oil based), if this
is your option then its best to follow the LCO method so that the oil seals
in the lighter layers of water and the leave-in. It should be noted that
fine hair and low porosity usually feel weighed down by butters so the
key to this would be to do away with the butters and opt for a heavy
liquid oil to effectively seal in the moisture. One such oil would be castor
oil because not only is it heavy but it is a softening and penetrative oil,
great for extremely coarse hair. Another option would be to whip up
your butter (i.e. Shea, mango etc.) with a oil ,you could even add aloe
Vera gel to it if you wish to make a lighter butter that doesn’t weigh
down your hair and this option wraps up both your oil and cream
options into one product.
Try this LOC routine for extra dry hair, I guarantee your hair will come
out very soft and manageable as a result of the curl activator
http://www.naturalhairgrowth101.com/natural-hair-care-4.html
To replenish moisture later on in the week use a moisturizing spray or
simply make one of your own-the basic ingredients can be water and an
oil or a leave-in conditioner and water. You can add aloe Vera juice,
essential oils or apple cider vinegar to your homemade spritz to make it
more conditioning
-CLARIFY YOUR HAIR- Have your noticed how soft your hair is after an
apple cider rinse or after using baking soda to clarify it? Usually build up
on hair forms an impermeable layer on top of your hair that prevents
any product or moisture from penetrating. This leaves the hair hard and
dry. Making a dilute solution of apple cider vinegar and water (Ratio of
1:4 or 1:3 with 1 being apple cider vinegar) and pour this over your
washed hair either as a final rinse or before washing and deep
conditioning to ensure that products are not hindered from penetrating
your hair by build-up. Most low porosity naturals find that apple cider
vinegar causes their cuticles to seal up even tighter. Baking soda is an
effective option in this case because of its alkaline nature. Not only does
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it strip build up but it also opens up the cuticles so that products can
effectively be absorbed. Your final rinse should either be with apple
cider vinegar or cold water or spray some aloe Vera juice so as to close
the cuticles thus sealing in the moisture in them. This is because of their
acidic PH.
-COFFEE/BEER RINSE: Coffee and tea rinses are usually used to reduce
hair shedding (use either black or herbal teas). Coffee has the extra
advantage of softening hair and the caffeine in the coffee acts a hair
growth stimulant. Simply brew up a cup of coffee and set it aside to cool
and then use it as a final rinse on wash day.
Beer used as a rinse is not only softening but it also gives the hair body.
Simply pour the beer you intend to use into a cup and leave it to sit for a
couple of hours so that it can go flat(this ensures that most of its smell
dissipates),then dilute it with water and use as a final rinse. You can preboil the beer to ensure that the alcohol in it evaporates. The hops and
brewer’s yeast in the beer also boost hair growth.
Here are a couple more tips to ensure that your hair stays moisturised
and soft;
-KNOW your hair porosity so that you can ensure that moisture and
products are being effectively absorbed
-BUY and utilise water based rather than old based products. These
should be any product whose ingredient list starts with water/aqua
-LIMIT your usage of heat as a styling method i.e. curling and straight
irons, tonging etc.
-PRACTICE the Baggy method or the Green house Method-whereby
during the course of the week you spray a little moisture on your hair
and wear a plastic cap for between 1hr-3hrs.The elevated heat and
moisture in the within the cap force the cuticles to lift and the hair
absorbs the moisture within the cap. Note that this should be practiced
once or twice a week at most because the moist humid environment
breeds fungus hence a lot of itchiness. If this occurs simply use apple
cider vinegar or tea tree essential oil to correct the situation.
3. Which shampoos, deep conditioners or leave-in brands for natural hair
can you recommend that can easily be got in Kampala?
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-POPULAR natural hair care lines that can be found in Kampala are
KeraCare (Delight Supplies and Eve and Nicco), As I Am (Eve and Nicco),
ORS Curls Unleashed in some major supermarkets. Brands by Ugandan
naturals -Nissi’s, Nature’s Fusions both found at Equatorial Shopping
Arcade and the Good Hair Collective. Other popular natural hair brands
like Shea Moisture, Tressemme Naturals, Kinky Curly can be bought from
individuals on the page. For natural products like oils and Shea butter
look up vendors on the suppliers and services file
4. What remedies are there for hard hair?
-REFER TO ANSWERS OF QUESTION NO. 2
5. What products encourage thickness in hair?
-FIRST AND FOREMOST a healthy diet results in strong, healthy growing
hair. Our hair and nails are the most visual indicators of something
lacking in our body. So stack up on a protein and vitamin rich diet. Why
these sub-groups? Hair and nails are made up of a protein known as
keratin, as we increase our intake of protein; we are giving the body the
building blocks it requires for healthy hair. For the body to develop and
grow we need a healthy supply of vitamins. Cell regeneration are aided
by vitamins, as such if you want to see healthy and thick hair then you
need to increase your intake of vitamin rich foods like vegetables. If you
feel that you are not getting an adequate supply in your diet then you
can supplement with a daily multi-vitamin.
-PROTEIN DEEP CONDITIONERS- these not only strength thin weak hair
but they form a coat of protein around each hair strand thus thickening
it. Protein deep conditioners are usually labelled as “For damaged Hair”
or they can be labelled as “Hair Repair’ Treatments. Some brands
trademark their protein conditioners as “Hair Mayonnaise” .Because
they create a protective layer on top of the hair, a protein treatment can
tend to be drying so u can follow up with a moisturizing deep
conditioner or simply layer it on top of the protein conditioner.
-NATURAL OILS-There are a number of natural oils that boost thickness
of hair. Castor oil shows noticeable results. Not only does castor oil
thicken hair but it boosts hair growth too. Avocado oil encourages
thickness by depositing protein to rebuild the hair strand. Olive oil,
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rosemary essential oil, jojoba and grape seed oil also boost hair
thickness
-FENUGREEK AND AMLA OIL-Fenugreek contains an enzyme that mimics
oestrogen and as a result not only does it result in healthy glowing skin
but in thick lush hair too. Amla (Indian Gooseberry) does so many things
at once, its anti-inflammatory, anti-fungal, anti-bacterial and a scalp
cleanser thereby promoting healthy thick growing hair. It also a natural
anti-greying remedy
-ALOE VERA – Contains the entire Amino Acid chain which is used as a
building block for thick growing hair. Use it either in gel or juice form for
thicker hair. Many naturals who use a homemade leave-in conditioner
called the KimmayTube Leave-in conditioner immediately notice thicker
healthy hair since its ingredients include aloe Vera, jojoba, castor oil-all
being natural thickness boosters.
-HENNA –Henna is a natural remedy that corrects so many hair related
issues. It stops hair shedding, it’s anti-fungal and anti-bacterial. It’s used
as a natural hair colour, it creates a coat of colour on top of the hair, and
this extra coat is what causes thickening of hair strands.
-OMEGA 3 FATTY ACIDS: Build the strands from within and boost not
just hair thickness but hair growth too. Omega 3 fatty don’t just benefit
in the hair department but it also improves smoothness and texture of
the skin resulting in naturally glowing skin. It is essential for great
eyesight and important for the brain. Foods rich in Omega 3s are
flaxseeds and flaxseed/linseed oil, fish, cereals and grains (oat extract is
added as a volume booster in volume boosting shampoos and
conditioners)
-Products that contain wax- wax added to deep conditioners, hair
stylers and other hair products coat each strand and immediately giving
the impression of thickness. However this is temporary and wax have
been known to cause build up.
6. When is it best to comb natural hair, when it is dry or wet?
Hair is made up of keratin strands that are bound together. Some of
these bonds are temporarily broken by water that’s why when your hair
is wet your curl pattern is looser but upon drying all these bonds are reNatural Hair Uganda
instated, hence when dry the hair is at its strongest compared to when
wet. However dry hair is inflexible because all the bonds are in place
and continuous abrasion with the comb causes it to break in short
segments i.e. have you noticed the coily kinky ends on your shoulders
and floor whenever you dry comb kinky hair. And because of this
inflexibility the hair tends to form single strand knots.
The argument for wet combing hair is based on the fact that wet hair is
flexible thus it’s easier for a comb to pass through. This is coupled with
the fact that conditioners which are added to wet hair tend to lay the
cuticles down so as to make detangling even easier. If hair has been
regularly strengthened with protein conditioners then the likelihood of
weak hair snapping is not likelihood.
To wrap up the argument kinky, coily hair (4a/4b/4c) will benefit more
from wet combing since it tends to be drier than every other hair type
thus increasing the chances of breakages if dry combed. You can start
out with finger detangling on dry hair; apply some oil to the hair for slip.
Then proceed to wet comb with the aid of conditioner/detangler.Comb
hair in sections.
Dry combing is not for all hair types and is limited to looser curl patterns.
Even for these loose curl patterns it would be best for hair to be lightly
misted with some moisture and a little oil or leave-in applied for slip ,this
also reduces frizziness and chipping from the comb. Hair that is mostly
worn stretched or straightened will not have any issues with dry
combing but it should be done gently.
7. Which hair growth oil can you recommend and how can we apply it?
It is hard to recommend one particular hair growth brand over another
because for every positive review there is an equivalent number of
people whom the oil has not worked for. This is because each brand has
particular ingredients that they have put together and these
combinations may work for others while it might not be the magic
combination for others. A more efficient way of looking at this would be
to identify oils that stimulate hair growth one way or the other so that if
you see them in the ingredient list of a hair growth product you can
decide if it will work for you or not
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-Castor oil is considered the king of growth oils because it doesn’t just
promote growth but it thickens hair, regrows hair where it has been
shed, it prevents hair thinning, cures minor scalp infections, it
moisturises hair and keeps it soft because it acts like a humectant by
attracting moisture from the atmosphere into the hair strand.
Avoid super refined medicinal grade castor oil because most of its
healing properties for hair have been stripped. The cruder the castor oil
the more growth for your hair. Black castor oil has even more growth
potential than all other castors because it has been pre-roasted with
some added ash. As the roasted castor beans are cold pressed the ash is
left intact in the oil and it is rich in sulphur which is one of the major
building blocks for hair growth
-Avocado oil is rich in amino acids which are what proteins are made up
of, as such it provides the raw material needed for hair growth and it is
rich in many other nutrients. Avocado oil is essential for hair strength
and it will seal up gaps in damaged hair.
-Jojoba oil-This oil actually has the molecular structure of liquid wax and
being as close to our naturally produced sebum it can mimic our natural
oil and its healing properties. Some of these properties include
unclogging pores and loosening dead skin and debris on the scalp as
such paving way for new healthier growth.
-Neem oil corrects whatever the issue is with your scalp, be it infections,
dandruff, over production or under production of sebum, thinning,
dryness etc. which stunt growth.
-coconut oil strengthens hair by preventing protein loss as such
maintaining tensile strength in the strand. Coconut oil is also great at
softening and moisturizing hair
-Silica in all its forms whether in nettle, horsetail or mineral rich water is
a critical building block for hair, skin and nail growth. Many who have
weak hair or stunted growth notice immediately healthy growth once
they include silica rich hair products in their regiment.
-No hair growth product is complete with rosemary essential oil
because it stimulates blood circulation to the scalp when rosemary rich
is massaged on the scalp
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-Lavender essential oil soothes the scalp and this is critical where
inflammation and over sebum production is the cause of hair loss. It is
also effective in curbing scalp infections
-Tea tree essential oil cures all manner of scalp infections be it bacterial,
viral or fungal as such fixing the issue that was stunting growth
-Peppermint is a cooling, minty essential oil that stimulates the hair
follicles by dilating the blood vessels on the scalp and drawing nutrient
rich blood to the surface. It is also effective in curbing dandruff
-Ayurvedic herbs +e.g. amla, henna, bhringraj, fenugreek, brahmi,
shikakai, aritha, moringa –these effectively work to cure scalp
infections, prevent hair loss by anchoring in the roots, stimulating new
growth and carrying nutrients through the various layers of skin. These
herbs are usually infused into the hair oils or products
**For maximum effectiveness, any oil be it healing or nutritive should be
warmed before applying to the scalp because this causes the pores to
open up thus increasing its penetrative power. Then the next stage
would be to gently massage it in. The power of a massage has been
widely documented because it is quite stimulating by increasing blood
flow to the scalp and hair roots.
8. What is the fastest way to achieve henna colour?
Henna (Lawsonia Inermis) is a natural dye and it does so by coating your
hair with a red coat of colour. Only the leaves contain the dye molecules
(Lawsone) which naturally occurs in a red-orange colour. By adding
various ingredients you can manipulate the colour into various shades of
red i.e. from auburn to a deep maroon to mahogany, note that you can
only manipulate within the hues of red. Various henna vendors
manipulate colour by adding metallic salts to their henna(referred to as
Compound Henna) and claiming that they have mixed henna leaves with
its bark and roots-it should be noted that only henna leaves contain any
tinting and conditioning properties and these salts can cause reactions
to the body moreover silver nitrate which is commonly mixed in henna
causes hair to turn green when it comes in contact with certain extracts
that are in your regular hair products-always buy 100% natural henna or
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mehandi or a herbal henna avoid those that the label attach colours to
their henna products i.e. black, brown etc.
-Herbal henna is a mix of henna and several ayurvedic herbs and is
usually rich in healing and conditioning and healing powers than plain
henna but it doesn’t deposit colour as fast as plain henna, infact if your
herbal henna contains amla you are most likely going to get deep brown
colour or colour tending towards black.
-HOW TO ACHIEVE COLOUR DEPOSITS FAST: It should be noted that if
you have black hair, henna cannot change your colour to red because
like mentioned above it coats your strands with a reddish coat so your
hair will appear black with reddish highlights and the more coating u
acquire the more noticeable the red becomes. The lighter your initial
hair colour is the more your initial red will be noticeable.
 Letting your henna dye release beforehand. Usually dye release
occurs best in an acidic environment hence you are advised to add
lemon juice, apple cider vinegar, red wine, herbal teas to your
henna paste to lower its PH and leave it to dye release for a
minimum of 8hrs before applying. It should be noted that dye
release has a curve and the maximum lawsone dye is released
between 8hr-12hrs after mixing .If you let the dye release beyond
this period then you lose most of this colour. If you make large
batches, simply mix with an acidic liquid like any of those
mentioned then let it dye release for only 5-6hrs then freeze it, the
dye release will occur as you thaw the henna for use
 Pure Body Art Quality (BAQ) henna will deposit red colour faster
than any other henna. So if faster colour deposit is your target buy
pure BAQ henna, though it should be noted that herbal henna
deposits colour only not as fast as BAQ and there are many
enriching herbs that have been added to it that will benefit your
hair greatly.
 The longer the henna is left on the hair the more colour is
deposited on the strands. This is why most henna users leave the
henna overnight for maximum deposit, if you have no time then
leave it on for a minimum of 4hours for noticeable deposit.
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 Use heat because henna loves heat and it causes the dye Lawsone
molecule to open up and coat readily to strands .You can either use
a dryer to occasionally apply heat or u could wear a shower cap
and subsequently put more head gear over that to trap in heat
 Freshness of the henna affects its ability to deposit. Fresh batch
that hasn’t overstayed has a rich deep olive green colour whereas a
batch that has overstayed looks a dull olive with no richness in the
green colour. Another factor is the country where the henna
comes from, henna native to some countries have a more vibrant
red compared to others.
 Adding particular ingredients to your henna paste can alter the
colours a bit but within the ranges of red. Adding powdered
beetroot or concentrated beet juice creates deep maroons. You
can concentrate your beet juice by blending your beets with water
then boiling down the mix. Strain off the sediments and use the
juice. You can also use hibiscus leaves/teabags .If you are using
hibiscus powder simply add this to your paste but if you are using
the teabags simply open up the tea bag and pour the contents into
the some water and boil it down, strain the leaves and add use this
water to create your henna paste. Red wine has been known to
help achieve deep maroon colour deposits you can mix two or
more of these additives in your paste for maximum colour
deposits. Adding coffee or cocoa powder results in red with dark
brown tones. Mixing henna in a metallic container also creates
darker tones when the henna reacts with metallic ions in the
container to form dark hues
 Apply henna to freshly wash and towel dried hair. This way there
will not be an obtrusive layer of dirt and grease that prevents the
Henna Lawson dye from adhering to the strand of hair
 Try to let the henna dry out as much as possible on your head, it
shouldn’t be as wet as when you initially applied it.To achieve this
you can either apply heat or remove you shower cap in the last
hour before washing off so that it can air dry faster.
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TIPS FOR HENNA-ING – Henna acts like a protein hence your hair may feel
a bit dry after a henna treatment but this is easily remedied by following up
with a moisturizing deep conditioner. Or you can opt for a henna gloss which
simply means adding a little conditioner or a softening ingredient like
coconut milk or red palm oil to your henna paste to counter the drying
effects. It should be noted that henna glosses don’t deposit colour as
intensely as a full strength henna treatment.
9. What causes high porosity and are there instances where it occurs
naturally?
Porosity refers to the hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture and
products. High porosity hair absorbs excessive amounts of water but
because of gaps in the cuticles caused by damage this moisture cannot
be held in by the hair and it soon loses all the moisture. The excessive
amount of water absorbs leads to strand to swell excessively and when
the moisture is lost there is a rapid shrinkage, this action on the hair
strand is called hydro fatigue and it weakens the hair.
High porosity condition is a result of damage causing gaps/breaks on the
hair surface and raised bumps along the cuticles. The common causes
include heat damage from using excessive heat to style hair. Chemical
damage from hair straighteners/texturizers and colorants can also cause
damage on the hair surface.
-There are situations though where individuals have not used heat or
colorants but notice that their porosity seems to be higher than usual .
There are other factors that kick up the hair porosity;
 GENETICS: As a whole genetics influence the kind of porosity you
are born with before other factors come in to play a part.
 Environmental factors such as excessive exposure to UV rays from
the sun, chemical and mineral content of water that one uses to
wash the hair all affect the porosity by eroding through the
protective layers of the hair cuticle.
 Sulphate shampoos strip off the natural protective oils on the
strand leaving it vulnerable to moisture loss
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 Mechanical damage from using particular combs ,rubbing against
clothing, rough scrunchies and other hard hair accessories can
result in chipping of the hair surface which results in high porosity
10. Remedies for grey hair other than dying it?
Natural remedies for greying hair are very effective in that they also
rectify other issues that come along with the grey hair such as thinning.
It should be noted that for greying to be effectively remedied it should
be tackled both externally and internally because greying is a result of
lack of important nutrients. Naturally greying hair occurs as one
becomes older because as the body ages it loses its ability to properly
absorb and metabolize certain nutrients which impacts hair health and
pigment. Premature greying is a hereditary trait in most families and
mainly translates in the body’s inability to absorb a certain nutrient.
 Onion juice is an effective remedy because it contains an enzyme
called catalase. It is a proven greying remedy that has been used
for centuries. For an effective treatment add lemon to your onion
juice and apply to your scalp every day, the only downside to this
remedy is its smell. Barley grass and wheat grass are also rich in
catalase
 Blackstrap Molasses is rich in in essential minerals and nutrients
especially copper which is crucial for the production of melanin,
the pigment present in hair and skin. When added to homemade
hair treatments it not only darkens but also curbs breakage
 Amla (Indian Gooseberry) –Not only can you apply it topically but
you can also make a gooseberry juice from the fruit to be
consumed daily. Not only does it reverse greyness but it also
causes all new growth to sprout out black and has rich anti-aging
properties.
 Oils-There are a number of rich oils that reverse greyness; the
most effective being blackseed oil. This rich oil not only reverses
greyness but it also thickens hair, boosts growth, remedies
psoriasis/dandruff/baldness amongst other things. A teaspoon a
day of food grade blackseed oil quickens the reversal of greying.
Olive oil is also an effective greying remedy and it also curbs
boldness because it is a DHT blocker. Since blackseed oil is rare it
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can be mixed with olive oil and applied as a powerful greying
remedy. Coconut oil mixed with lemon juice or lemon essential oil
and massaged twice a week on the scalp is a great greying
remedy. Ghee (clarified butter) used weekly treatment reverses
greyness. Neem oil, clove essential oil, Arnica oil which is an
infusion of Arnica flowers, brahmi hair (brahmi powder infused in
oil-commonly used in India as a natural greying and balding
remedy), Bhringraj oil is another common Indian remedy that
works. Mustard oil that has been infused with henna powder, it
doesn’t take on any of the red henna colour but it works naturally
to restore your natural hair colour. Sesame oil is also a great
darkening oil
 Aloe Vera gel applied to hair and left on is an ingredient that never
misses in most greying natural remedies. This is because it is full of
all the nutrients needed to create melanin and also rejuvenate
hair thickness
 HERBS: The first herbal remedy that you’ll come across for
reversing greyness is guava leaves. Get a handful of the leaves
then grind them to pulp and apply weekly to freshly washed hair.
A combination of sage and rosemary herbs boiled in water and
used as a final rinse every time you shampoo is a good greying
remedy. Other commonly used herbs that reverse greying include
chamomile which can also be used in a final rinse and also
consumed in a tea. Amaranth (dodo) is a very powerful ayurvedic
greying remedy commonly used by Indians, the best way to use
this is to juice it along with your favourite fruits and drink as many
times as you can daily, also you can grind the amaranth leaves into
a pulp and apply to your hair and leave it on as a mask that you
later rinse off .You could also infuse the herbs in a carrier oil like
olive oil or coconut oil. Alternatively you could look for the
essential oils of these herbs because they are portent
concentrations of the healing properties of the plant. Curry leaves
are very effective when infused in various oils
 Irish potato peel rinse-peel some Irish potatoes and measure
about 1 cup of peels to 2 cups of water and put to boil. Once it has
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boiled reduce the heat and let it simmer for 10 mins more. After it
has cooled you can strain it and use it as a rinse every time you
shampoo your hair
 Freshly grated ginger infused in raw honey consumed daily boosts
melanin production
11.Glossary of natural hair terms?
GLOSSARY OF NATURAL HAIR CARE TERMS
Accordion Technique
A Wash n' Go styling technique that produces well- formed, highly-defined
coils/curls. (Best if performed in the shower because it involves significant dripping.)
.Hair is first cleansed and conditioned. While soaking wet, a styling curl cream or curl
gel is applied... (Some ladies use only an application of conditioner instead of styling
products.) As the head is titled in various angles, the hair now weighted with water
and styling product, is lowered into an open palm and gently pressed to the scalp
repeatedly. Hair is typically air dried afterward.
ACV (Apple Cider Vinegar)
Typically used in a diluted form as a final rinse after shampooing and before
conditioning. Seals and tightens the cuticle layer for improved shine and
smoothness.
APL
Arm Pit Length (Reference to length of hair)
BAA
Big ***Afro! Opposite of a TWA, (Teeny Weeny Afro)
Baggy
The practice of covering the hair at night with a plastic shower cap for the purpose of
enhancing moisture. This method is thought to help reduce breakage, split ends and
dryness.
Banding
A styling technique used to inhibit hair shrinkage and thereby display more of the
hair's actual length..Gathering the hair into one ponytail or several smaller ones,
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covered elastic bands are affixed snugly from the scalp area, one after the other, all
the way down to the ends, (or near the ends) of the hair. Several bands may be
needed for each section, depending upon hair length. May be done on wet, damp or
dry hair. Bands are left in for a period of time or until the hair is dry (if banded while
damp or wet.)
Bantu Knots
A hairstyle created by carefully and precisely parting hair in small-to-medium
sections, and then twisting the sections in one direction until they wrap into neat
knots. The knots are often secured near the scalp with bobby or hair pins.
Bantu Knot Out
A style, with a highly defined curly or wavy texture, created by releasing Bantu Knots
after they are dry.
BC (Big Chop)
Cutting off all relaxed or chemically-treated portions of the hair, leaving only naturaltextured new growth.
BKT (Brazilian Keratin Treatment)
A chemical blow-out treatment used to temporarily smooth and straighten natural
textured hair. Many systems incorporate formaldehyde. Not recommended for those
who wish to retain their natural coil/curl pattern because such systems often cause
permanent relaxation of the hair.
BNC (Braid-n-Curl)
A style created by plaiting or braiding the hair while wet, and then curling the ends
with rollers or flexi rods. After the hair is dry, the braids and rollers are removed to
reveal a wavy and curly hair texture.
BSL
Bra Strap Length (Reference to length of hair)
BSS
Beauty Supply Store
CBL
Collar Bone Length (Reference to length of hair)
CG (Curly Girl)
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CG is an abbreviation for "Curly Girl," a book written by Lorraine Massey and Michele
Bender. It also describes a routine set forth in the book that helps natural "coilies"
and "curlies" achieve healthy, manageable waves, curls or coils. Key is the "no poo"
method of cleansing, (i.e. cowashing). Several other techniques of hair care and
styling are also recommended.
Clarifying
The process of cleansing and removing a build-up of oils, styling products, tap water
minerals and/or medications from the hair. Typically performed with specialty
shampoos or baking soda rinses.
Coils
A hairstyle achieved by taking small sections of wet or very damp hair and
smoothing, while rotating the sections, one-by-one, from root to tip. Tiny styling
combs have been used for coils, as well as a finger. Typically, a gel is applied prior to
coiling for longer-lasting hold and shine.
Coily
A term used to reference the texture characteristic of natural Type 4 hair, whereby
the configuration of the strand resembles a small-diameter ink pen spring. The coil is
most evident when the hair is wet and/or defined with a curling custard/ gel. It
usually remains evident when the hair is allowed to dry undisturbed from a soaking
wet stage.
Condish
Conditioner
Cones (Silicone)
These can be defined as synthetic emollients/oils. Silicones of various types are
incorporated into many hair care product formulations because of their ability to
impart shine, enhance flexibility, reduce frizz, protect hair from heat, form a waterresistant barrier around the hair shaft and seal the cuticle layer. Many women with
natural-textured hair reject products that contain silicones due to the belief that
"cones" are difficult to remove and prevent the hair from receiving moisture.
Cowash
The practice of cleansing the hair using an appropriate conditioner in place of a
conventional shampoo. Preferred by many naturalistas as the predominant method
of cleansing because of its ability to help hair retain moisture.
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Creamy Crack
A reference to chemical relaxers. The term was coined with the thought that the use
of relaxers is addictive for those women who strive for a permanently straight hair
texture.
DT or DC
Deep treatment or deep conditioner. A moisturizing, strengthening and/or damagerepair product that is applied right after cleansing, and often allowed to penetrate
for 15 – 30 minutes with the use of a mild heat source. Also used to enhance shine
and manageability.
Dusting
Trimming of the hair, typically ¼ inch or less. The amount of hair trimmed is usually
so small that it appears as dust.
EO (Essential Oils)
Aromatic oils are extracted from flowers, grasses, fruits, leaves, roots, or trees, and
maintain the odours and tastes, and thus the essence, of the plants from which they
are extracted. Amongst their various uses they are used to nourish the hair and
scalp.
EVCO
Extra Virgin Coconut Oil; Used as a natural hair care product for shine and to seal in
moisture. It is one of the few oils with a proven ability to penetrate the skin and hair.
Loved for its emollient and sheen-producing properties.
EVOO
Extra Virgin Olive Oil; Used as a natural hair care product for shine. Also used as a
pre-shampoo treatment. EVOO is considered by some to be a natural sealant that
locks moisture inside the hair shaft that was provided by a previously-applied
hydrating product.
Flat Twists
A technique whereby the hair is two-strand twisted flat to the scalp, in cornrow
fashion.
Fluff
The use of fingers or a pick to add volume and shape to natural hair.
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'Fro
Afro
'Fro hawk
A hairstyle where the sides of an afro are flattened to the scalp, either by smoothing
& pinning or by shaving. The centre hair is left high and free, in the shape of the
distinctive Mohawk.
Hair Types: 1/2a/2b/2c/ 3a/3b/3c/4a/4b/4c
Hair typing refers to the amount of texture hair has. Naturally straight hair is Type 1,
loose-wavy hair is type 2, curly hair is type 3 and coily hair is type 4. In the case of
types 3 and 4, the sub-classifications from a - c, are based upon the diameter of the
curl or coil. For instance a type 3a curl may have the diameter of a nickel, a 3b, like a
dime. Type 4, which is the most common for people of African descent, ranges from
the diameter of a pencil eraser (4a), to the diameter of an ink pen spring (4b), and
even smaller than that, (type 4c). In some cases, hair may even have a tight zigzag
pattern and no coil at all. This hair type classification system was created by
renowned hairstylist and entrepreneur, Andre Walker.
Henna
A plant-derived powder, when mixed with water to make a paste, is applied to hair,
processed and rinsed out. It is used as a natural hair colour-enhancer, strengthener
and conditioner.
HG (Holy Grail)
Products that one has tried, achieved good results with and remains loyal to
HIH (Hand in Hair)
By some, jokingly called a disease, this is a condition whereby one continually
touches or manipulates her hair. It is considered to be a compulsion and a habit that,
if extreme, causes the hair to frizz or even break.
Locks/Locs
A hairstyle whereby small sections of hair are twisted and over time, the strands
become permanently secured. As locks/locs grow, they can become quite long.
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MBL
Mid Back Length (Reference to hair length)
Nappyversary/Nattyversary
The anniversary of the day one decided to "go natural" and to refrain from applying
chemical straighteners (relaxers) to the hair.
No-poo
A non-foaming, non-detergent cleanser, typically a conditioner, used to remove dirt,
oils and styling products from the hair and scalp. Used to help hair retain moisture
and softness.
Pineappleing
Pulling hair into one or several pony puffs, (depending on hair length), using covered
or ouch less bands. The balance of the hair remains free. The puff(s) are positioned
at the top or at several sites across the head. This procedure helps preserve the
coil/curl definition of the style overnight, and also provides some stretch to the hair.
When using this technique, it's best to sleep on a satin pillowcase. In the morning,
the bands are removed and the sections are gently shaken or fluffed.
PJ (Product Junky)
A person who buys a lot of different products and brands in the quest of finding the
"perfect" ones for her hair.
Plopping
Hair is carefully lowered and loosely wrapped in a clean t-shirt or soft cotton
material, while bending from the waist. Performed after cleansing, conditioning
and/or applying a liberal amount of styling gel or cream, it helps to absorb excess
moisture from the hair. It's thought to decrease drying time, reduce frizz, and
enhance natural curls.
Pony Puff
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A hairstyle whereby the hair is pulled back at the crown, sides and nape, using
headbands, hair pins, scarves, etc. The remaining hair extends freely.
Poo
Shampoo
Pre-Poo
Oils, conditioners and other substances applied to the hair prior to shampooing to
enhance moisturization and conditioning during cleansing.
Protective Styling
A hairstyle that helps protect the ends of hair from dehydration and damage, by
eliminating the need for mechanical manipulation, (combing, brushing, picking, etc.)
and shielding against environmental exposure, (i.e. sun, heat, cold, wind). Some
examples are buns, braids, twists, ponytails and various head coverings.
S&D (Search and Destroy)
Identifying frayed, damaged ends for the purpose of trimming them. Such trimming
is thought to optimize hair health, encourage the curls to "pop", and improve the
look and feel of hair.
Sealing
Applying a product or single ingredient, such as a natural oil, to the hair to help lock
in moisture. May be applied along the entire hair strand or just to the ends,
following cleansing and/or the application of a cream or conditioner containing
water. Sealing is often achieved with the use of natural oils and butters or products
formulated with them.
Second Day Hair
The state of one's hair on the day after it is cleansed, conditioned and styled. For
some, it is a less-than-desirable look, often referring to frizz, loss of definition, shine
or overall shape. For others, it's a positive description of hair that is fuller, freer,
showing fewer partings, etc.
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Shingling
A form of Wash n' Go styling whereby a styling curl cream or curl gel is liberally
applied section-by section to clean, very wet hair. As the styling product is applied to
each relatively small section of hair, the section is smoothed between the thumb and
forefinger, in a downward motion from root to tip. The smoothing action, in
combination with the styling product immediately makes the coil/curl/wave pattern
evident. The hair is then either air-dried or dried with the use of a hood dryer. Once
dry, the hair can be gently fluffed for style.
Shrinkage
A term used to describe the reduction of the visual length of hair. It is a process that
occurs as wet hair dries and re-coils into its natural texture pattern.
Slip
A state produced by a product whereby the palms of the hands, the fingers and/or a
detangling comb are able to easily and smoothly glide along the hair shaft, from root
to tip. For the sake of manageability and feel, it is desirable that hair care products
such as shampoos, leave-in conditioners and deep conditioners provide this
attribute, without leaving behind a tacky or dulling residue.
SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulphate)
A synthetic detergent associated with hair dehydration, and semi-permanent and
permanent hair colour fading. Commonly found in conventional shampoos.
Stretch
Opposite of shrinkage shows the true length of the hair strand when it is not in a
fully coiled state. By applying specific stretching techniques like African
threading/banding, more of the hair's actual length is revealed in the finished style.
Some products are also thought to minimize shrinkage, thereby helping to stretch
the hair.
Texturizer
A chemical treatment used to partially relax or loosen the natural curl pattern of
highly textured hair. Provides greater stretch/elongation/length, and helps the hair
to trail in a downward direction, (as opposed to an "up on out" direction, like an
afro.) Texturizers are usually a form of relaxers, just milder in formulation or allowed
to process using a different technique or timeframe. Texturizers alter the natural
coil/curl pattern permanently and hair processed with them must be cut off in order
to return one's hair to its natural state.
TNC (Twist-n-Curl)
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A styling technique whereby wet or damp hair is two-strand twisted and then rolled
on rods or rollers. Once dry, the curlers are removed and the hair untwisted.
Transitioning
This is the process, (also called "the journey" or "going natural") whereby one's
natural-textured hair is allowed to grow in, while the previously chemically-treated
hair is trimmed off in stages. The goal is to have a full head of all-natural hair, but to
do so without abruptly cutting off (via the Big Chop) all of the processed hair. A
degree of length is maintained by only gradually removing the relaxed or permed
portions. Transitioning also involves managing the coily-textured new-growth as it
increasingly co-exists with the remaining hair. The strategy for some is to wear
textured styles (i.e., rod sets and braids) as the new hair grows in to minimize the
texture differences, or to wear or wigs/weaves for a period of time.
TWA
Teeny Weeny Afro
Twist Out
A hairstyle created by first two-strand twisting the hair while wet or damp. After the
hair is dry, the twists are carefully released and styled.
Two-Strand Twists
A hairstyle technique whereby sections of hair are divided into two smaller sections
and then wound around each other. The last half-inch or so of each twist is left loose
and twirled around the index finger into a coil. 2-Strand Twists can be worn as a
hairstyle in and of itself or the twists can be carefully released when dry (Twist-Out)
for a look that's fuller, yet with a well-defined coily/wavy texture.
Wash n' Go
A term referring to a relatively quick and easy styling session whereby a defined
finished style is achieved without twisting, braiding, knotting, rodding, etc. Hair is
first cleansed and conditioned. Coils/curls are then defined with gel or a styling
cream and allowed to air dry or dried using a diffuser attachment on a blow dryer set
to a low temperature.
May be abbreviated as WnG or W&G
12.How can one prevent an itchy scalp right after braiding?
Itching right after braiding/weaving is quite common with synthetic
extensions. This is usually an allergic reaction to the chemicals used to
treat the synthetic fibres. The manufacturers treat the hair with alkaline
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chemicals to create a heat and wear resistant product. This chemical
layer can be stripped in a vinegar bath. Vinegar is the preferred method
for detoxing the extensions because its acidic PH counters the alkalinity
of the chemicals on the extensions but it’s still gentle on human skin
HOW TO DETOX YOUR HAIR EXTENSIONS: Get hot water (Not boiling
hot!) and pour in a container. Add 1 tablespoon of vinegar to every cup
of water that you use. Take your extensions intact (do not separate or
fluff them or you might create tangles) out of their packaging and
immerse it in the solution. Leave it submerged till you see a film on top
of the water-that is the stripped chemicals. Pour the solution and rinse
the hair well under running water. Squeeze out the excess water and
hung the hair up to dry.
- If you plaited the extensions without detoxing them and you are
having an allergic reaction to them simply make the solution a bit
stronger (i.e. increase the vinegar) because you’ll not be able to soak
the extensions but you can only be able to use it as a rinse. Tip your
head over and try to pour the solution over both your roots and ends.
NOTE: YOU CAN ONLY DETOX SYNTHETIC HAIR EXTENSIONS (Braids,
weaves even wigs)
13.How can one minimise breakages on wash day?
Before proceeding to wash day tips you should analyse why your hair is
breaking. The common reasons are that it could be dry( either from
under moisturisation or overuse of heat for styling) ,it could be lacking
tensile strength because you are not doing enough protein treatments,
you are over detangling or you handle your hair too roughly. If you’ve
taken care of any of the above reasons and you find that you still
experience breakages on wash day then it could be a result of tangling
and these remedies will help reduce the breakages
 Section your hair and wash it in twists- this will prevent them
from tangling. Even short hair can be washed in twists, just
remember to rinse well so that residue doesn’t remain trapped
in the seams of your twists
 Pre-poo before wash day as this will prevent hygral fatigue
which weakens hair and causes it to breaks. Coconut oil is the
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



most effective oil for pre-poos since it is penetrative and
prevents protein loss
Do a coffee or tea rinse to reduce shedding. A coffee rinse has
the added advantage of softening hair
Use cool water to rinse your hair. This will not only seal up the
cuticles on the hair strand thus trapping in moisture but it also
causes follicles to close up thus anchoring your roots more and
thus reducing shedding
Wash your hair the right way to prevent tangling. A common
mistake most naturals make is massaging shampoo directly to
their hair, the rubbing action causes the hair strands to tangle.
The best way to wash is to pour the shampoo on your palms
and rub it to create foam which you then apply to your scalp
and massage the scalp only. If you are using a shampoo bar
then rub it between your palms to create foam which you then
transfer to your scalp. Only conditioner is applied directly to
the strands along with the scalp and then it is combed through
rather than rubbed in. When rinsing flip your head over and
gently comb your fingers through your hair as you rinse, this
way soapy water gently strips dirt from your strands. The
strands have a protective layer of sebum that should not be
mistaken for grease,if your wash your hair till it is squeaky
clean then you are most likely stripping off this layer too
Blot hair dry with an old cotton T-shirt or a micro-fibre towel.
Traditional towels are too absorbent thus drying the hair and
they encourage tangles. Alternatively you can practice
plopping whereby you wrap your wet hair in a cotton T-shirt
and leave it to dry for a couple of minutes
14.Natural hair shrinks when it is wet so why do most naturals feel the
need to moisturize daily?
Kinky hair is more prone to dryness than any other kind of hair because
of its coily nature. This means sebum cannot effectively coat the entire
strand from root to tip because of the kinks and bends along the strand
–that is why you are advised to ensure that pay extra attention to the
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hair tips when moisturising since they tend to be dryer than the roots.
So naturals have to make an extra effort to maintain moisture levels in
their hair because well moisturised natural hair retains styles easily and
looks healthy and glossy. Dry hair feels straw like and is hard to style.
Shrinkage and moisture come hand in hand when dealing with kinky hair
but it can be countered by stretching the hair before styling and every
bedtime. The following tips will help you maintain moisture levels in
your hair;
 Know your hair porosity- You cannot effectively moisturise hair if
you do not understand how your hair absorbs and retains
moisture and products.
 LOC hair to seal in the moisture. The best (L)iquid to be used in
this sequence is water. Layer an (O)il on your hair then followed
by the (C )ream which is usually a heavy butter to effectively trap
in all the other layers with the moisture underneath
 Re-moisturise during the course of the week to ensure that
moisture levels in the hair are not depleted.You can either do
this with a moisturising spritz or a hair moisturiser.
 Hair that is prone to dryness should use more of water based and
humectant rich products rather than oil based products. Water
based products start with water or aqua as their first ingredient.
Oil based products should be used over the water based
products to seal them in.
 Protective and semi-protective styles where your ends are tucked
in ensure against moisture loss
15.I am newly natural, what oils, shampoos should I use? Do I have to cut
my hair to go natural?
-SHAMPOO- always opt for a sulphate free shampoo because they don’t
leave the hair as stripped and dry as sulphate shampoos do. Popular
sulfate free brands that can be got in Kampala include
Keracare,ORS(Curls unleashed). If a sulfate free shampoo is unattainable
in your area you can use African Black soap(Most common is Dudu Osun
found at Delight Supplies and some supermarkets) or shampoo Bars(Try
Nissi’s at Hotel Equatorial or try the Farmers’ Market every Saturday at
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Prune’s) . If all the above options are still not available to you, opt for
baby shampoos because they are made with mild surfactants( wetting
ingredients) like Coco Betaine and not sulphates and SLS. If you use a
shampoo with sulphates then ensure that you pre-poo or hot oil or oil
rinse prior too or during the course of washing your hair. Make sure to
deep condition too so as to restore all that has been lost during washing
process.
-CONDITIONERS- These are usually moisture or protein rich creams that
are applied to the hair for a few minutes before being rinsed off.
Conditioners can also be used to wash hair instead of shampoos .They
need only be left on for a couple of minutes because they are
concentrated and are meant to replace the oils and goodness stripped
away from your hair by the washing process. Natural ingredients(i.e.
those that the manufacturers try to use ingredients that are natural as
possible) are the best e.g. Tressemme naturals , ORS (Curls Unleashed)
conditioner, Herbal Essence , Vatika Naturals
-DEEP CONDITIONERS: They have various benefits which they carry out
with an intensity that isn’t in regular conditioners especially when it
comes to moisture. Depending on its ingredients deep conditioners can
repair broken and damaged hair (ORS hair mayonnaise ,Olive oil
Replenishing Conditioner etc.) or it may impart intense moisture –these
will usually be labelled for dry hair
-NATURAL OILS AND BUTTERS- A must have for each natural because of
the healing and nutritive benefits that they impart on the hair and they
can be used in the LOC method to seal in moisture .
-LEAVE-IN CONDITIONERS- these provide added moisture, protein and
conditioning to the hair. They have the added advantage of laying down
the cuticles for easy detangling, reduces frizzing, softens and adds shines
and protects the hair from elements in the environment.
-STYLERS for instance gel, custards and puddings, these lock in your style
and ensure that it lasts all week e.g. Ecostyler, Cantu, IC Fantasia, Loc
and twist gel, aloe Vera gel
-TOOLS- a wide toothed comb for detangling . Fine toothed combs cause
breakages
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-SATIN BONNET OR PILLOW CASE for ensure that your hair stays
moisturised. Cotton scarves and pillowcases absorb the hair’s natural
oils. You can also use a silk scarf(Common in various second hand
markets) or you could buy satin material (Kiyembe above the old Park)
and have a tailor make pillowcases for you. You can cut up an old satin
slip to create a scarf
- A spritz/spray bottle for your homemade spritz which will be used for
moisturising the hair. You can convert and old body splash for this
purposes
- THERE ARE 2 WAYS TO GO NATURAL-you can either cut off all the
relaxed hair(called the Big Chop- BC) or you could opt to transition i.e.
gradually grow out your relaxed ends. A transition can either be long or
short i.e. stop using any relaxers on your hair and gradually trim the
relaxed ends as you get new growth. Eventually when you are
comfortable with your new length then you can cut off all the relaxed
ends. Moisture is crucial for all hair whether relaxed or natural but
natural hair thrives on moisture even more so you have to develop a
regiment that caters to moisture for both hair types (Link on
transitioning attached below)
http://www.curlynikki.com/2012/02/new-naturals-creatingregimen.html
http://naturalhairuganda.com/transition-from-relaxed-to-natural-hair/
16.Are DIY hair treatments effective? I read somewhere that the nutrients
they contain cannot be easily absorbed by the hair.
YES! DIY treatments are effective conditioners especially for moisture
and adding nutrients to the hair, the debate arises in relation to proteins
in DIY treatments. To appreciate the effectiveness of DIY treatments we
first have to understand how store bought conditioners work-They have
been given a cationic charge so that they stick to the hair shaft and they
remain on even during rinsing. Cheap store bought hair treatments
simply coat the surface but the more effective natural commercial
conditioners add coconut oil or olive oil so that there can be
penetration-proving that the more natural the product the more
effective it is. For effectiveness these oils should appear amongst the
first 5 ingredients.
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The effectiveness of a protein treatment stems from its ability repair hair
by forming temporary bonds over damaged areas on the hair shaft
hence proteins are hydrolysed so that they can mesh and form a bond.
The issue with proteins in DIY treatments isn’t their ability to penetrate
(penetration is achieved by adding the above oils to your treatment) but
rather stay embedded in the hair strand and form the said protein
bonds. But this can’t be said of all protein treatments because many
who use avocado (both the mashed fruit or its oi)l in their homemade
treatments achieve desired results mainly because of the penetrative
power of avocado oil and the amino acids that it contains.
That being said an effective deep conditioner (store bought or
homemade) must contain either of these penetrative oils/ingredients
amongst their first 5 ingredients for effective DEEP conditioning
 Cocos nucifera (coconut oil)
 Olea Europaea fruit (olive oil, extra virgin, unrefined)
 Persea Americana (avocado oil)
 Ricinus communis (castor oil)
 Argania spinosa (Argan oil)
 Hydrolysed proteins (protein is a building block that increases moisture
retention, adds volume, and makes hair smoother; “hydrolysed” means
it’s been split into smaller units so it can penetrate DEEPER than usual
and STAY EMBEDDED DEEP the hair)
NB: ALOE VERA IS ONE OF THE MOST EFFECTIVE INGREDIENTS TO ADD
TO YOUR DIY CONDITIONERS BECAUSE IT IS EASILY ABSORBED BY HAIR
AND SKIN AND IT CONTAINS ALL THE AMINO ACIDS IN A STATE THAT
CAN NOT ONLY DEEPLY PENETRATE BUT CAN ALSO BE EFFECTIVELY
UTILIZED BY THE BODY.
The effectiveness of a DIY conditioner depends on you understanding
what your hair needs so if you see that a DIY deep conditioner isn’t
giving you the results that you want yet it is effective on another head
keep in mind that hair textures/porosities and needs vary from head to
head AND you probably haven’t found the perfect mix that works for
YOUR hair, keep switching it up and write down the results till you find
what works for you.
17.What are the remedies for dandruff?
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-AN ACV (APPLE CIDER VINEGAR) RINSE is very effective at controlling
dandruff. For every cup of water add 3-4 Tablespoon of ACV to the
water and use as a rinse, first pouring a little on your roots and
massaging it in to lift up the dandruff then pouring the rest on the scalp
to rinse it off and to condition the scalp
NOTE that white vinegar is just as effective only that its harsher(drying)
so if you are using white vinegar then reduce the ratio of vinegar to
water
-ASPIRIN FOR EXTREME CASES OF DANDRUFF. Aspirin contains salicylics
which is an active ingredient (salicylic acid) in most anti- dandruff
shampoos and conditioners. Get 5 aspirin tablets and crush them .Mix
the powder with either water or ACV or Coconut oil ,depending on how
extreme the dandruff is, to form a thin paste which you apply directly to
the scalp and left on for 30mins before washing off.
-COCONUT OIL – Of all the carrier oils this is an intense anti-dandruff
powerhouse . Apply regularly to the scalp to control dandruff
DIY COCONUT OIL DANDRUFF TREATMENT- This is a simple yet very
effective dandruff treatment- 1 teaspoon of lemon juice, 1 teaspoon of
Apple Cider Vinegar , 2 tablespoons of coconut oil, 1 Tablespoon of olive
oil. Mix well and apply to your scalp 2-3 times a week depending on how
severe the dandruff is-do not wash off.
-TEA TREE ESSENTIAL OIL- when added to any of your oils or
conditioners or daily spritz will immediately eradicate dandruff. It is
another common ingredient in most anti-dandruff products
NEEM OIL- Neem corrects almost every scalp ailments and imbalances
for sebum production to dandruff to reduced growth. It is a must have
for an optimal scalp. Being portent you are advised to use in very small
amounts
-OTHER AYURVEDIC REMEDIES OTHER THAN NEEM- amla any oil
containing amla is just as effective as the amla powder itself because the
amla essence has been infused in the oil. Make sure that the oil is
natural and not a mineral oil because mineral oils worsen dandruff and
cause itchiness for most people. Henna, sesame oil, ginger and
fenugreek are also effective dandruff remedies.
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-ALOE VERA- Aloe Vera is not only anti-bacterial and anti-fungal but it
also contains enzymes that break down the dead dandruff cells hence
cleansing the scalp. You can either use the gel or u can use the juice
sprayed to the scalp.
-EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL- it’s effective in moisturizing a dry scalp and
thus reducing the itching and flaking. Olive oil is the best remedy for
children with dandruff and is the most the recommended oil for babies
with cradle cap. Warm up the olive oil and apply to the scalp, leave it on
for 45mins before washing off, you can add apple cider vinegar or lemon
juice to your olive oil to increase its effectiveness. OR you can warm it up
and leave it overnight as a pre-poo. For babies with cradle cap you can
warm up a little olive oil and gently massage on the child’s scalp to lift up
flakes then wash off remembering to leave a little on the scalp to avoid
dryness.
-BAKING SODA- is a mild exfoliant that removes excess flakes and
absorbs excess oil. It also lowers the scalp PH to an optimal level and it
stops the growth of fungus in cases where the dandruff stems from a
fungal infection
-Medicated over-the-counter remedies- these are
shampoos/conditioners or oils that have ingredients that target
dandruff. The active anti-dandruff ingredients to look out for in these
products are;
Selenium sulphide works in the same way but it has the added
advantage of killing yeast
Ketoconazole- this is effective if the dandruff is caused by a fungal or a
yeast infection
Salicylic Acid-acts as a powerful exfoliant by causing massive shedding of
the dandruff cell and regeneration of the newer skin cells
Zinc Pyrithione- this is one of the more common anti-dandruff
ingredients it is both anti-bacterial and anti-dandruff
18.Which oil is the best to use for natural oil?
Natural Hair Uganda
Natural oils are the best for natural hair because they do not smother
the hair and they can easily be washed. Natural oils can either be carrier
oils or essential oils.
ESSENTIAL OILS usually derived from the flowers, roots, leaves or twigs
of the plants contain the very essence of the plant and cannot be used
directly because of their potency but they have to be diluted in a carrier
oil
CARRIER OILS or sometimes called base oils are usually got from the
fruit or seeds of the plant. They can be used neat without diluting and
they are usually used to dilute essential oils before use.
QUALITY OF CARRIER OILS
This first category looks at quality through the method of extraction
COLD PRESSED- this is the most natural form of the oil-the machine
manually extracts the oil at a temperature no higher than 110°F( If it
exceeds 110 then it’s no longer considered raw because past this degree
many raw elements and nutrients are lost)
EXPELLER PRESSED- similar to cold pressed but higher temperatures
(between 120-200°F) to expel the oil- A number of nutrients are lost due
to the heat
SOLVENT EXTRACTED – A solvent (usually hexane) is used to extract the
oil and usually not all the solvent used can be removed from the final
product. This raises a lot of controversy since Hexane has been shown to
be a likely cause of cancer. If your oil isn’t labelled cold pressed or
expeller pressed then most likely its solvent extracted ( including most
organic oils.
Categorization based on refinement;
UNREFINED- After the oil is cold pressed its passed through a
screen/cheesecloth/sieve to remove the bigger particles. It doesn’t
undergo any chemical process like neutralisation, bleaching and
deodorizing( to remove any natural smells).The natural nutrients stay
intact. Unrefined cold pressed oils are the best oils to use not just for
hair and skin but for consumption too.
REFINING/PART REFINING (INCLUDING FRACTIONATED)
The makeup of refined oils is quite different from their natural form.
Manufacturers usually refine oils to increase its shelf life but in the
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process they destroy nutritive values, fatty acids of the oil. Unrefined
choice is the best option followed by partly refined. Try to avoid wholly
refined oils because they lack any nutritive value
Extra virgin means that it has only been pressed once while virgin means
that it has been pressed more than once while regular has been pressed
multiple times and also partly refined to make it more stable for
cooking.
OILS TO AVOID: mineral oils, petrolatum, parraffium, silicones
PROFILE OF NATURAL CARRIER OILS AND THEIR BENEFITS
Almond Oil (Sweet) : Botanical Name: Prunus Dulcis, Prunus Amygdalus
Colour: Golden-Pale Yellow Source: Almond Kernel Shelf Life: up to 1 year
Contains: Vitamin A, B, E, Protein, Calcium, Glucodides, Iron,
Magnesium, Phosphorus, Potassium, Omega 3
Uses: Food, Skincare, Massage, Hair care, Cosmetics
Benefits/Properties: Moisturizing, Not Penetrating, Lubricating,
Conditioning, Retains Moisture, Calms Skin, Does not Clog Pores, Removes
Impurities and Dead Skin, Aphrodisiac, Prevents Wrinkles, Great for sensitive
skin especially children
Good For: Dry Skin, Itching, Inflammation, Eczema, Burns, Sunburn, Sore
Muscles, Dandruff, Hair Loss, Split Ends
Apricot Kernel Oil- Botanical Name: Prunus Armeniaca, Armeniaca Vulgans
Colour: Deep Golden (Unrefined) Source: Apricot Kernel Shelf Life: 6 to 12
months
Contains: Vitamin A, C, E, Protein, Potassium
Uses: Skincare, Massage, Hair Care
Benefits/Properties: Moisturizing, Emollient, Nourishing, Prevents Wrinkles,
Laxative, Antioxidant Properties, Anti-Inflammatory
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Good For: Dry Skin, Sensitive Skin, Inflammation, Aged Skin
Argan Oil- Botanical Name: Argania Spinosa
Colour: Golden Source: Argan Kernel from Moroccan Argan Tree
Shelf Life: up to 6 months. Store in a cool, dark, and dry area
Uses: Skincare, Hair care, Cosmetics, Nail Care
Benefits/Properties: Very Hydrating, Quickly Absorbs, Emollient, Protective
Properties, Reduces Wrinkles, Dissolves Excess Sebum, Prevents/Reduces
Stretch Marks
Good For: Acne, Scars, Strengthening Nails and Hair
Avocado Oil- Botanical Name: Persea Americana, Persea Gratissima
Colour: Dark Green (Unrefined)
Source: Avocado fruit
Shelf Life: 6 to 12 months (do not refrigerate)
Uses: Food, Skincare, Hair Care
Benefits/Properties: Moisturizing, Very Penetrating, Improves Skin Elasticity,
Increases Collagen, Removes Impurities from Skin. Blends well with other
carrier oils
Good For: Dry Skin, Sensitive Skin, Aged Skin, Eczema, Psoriasis, Solar
Keratosis, Age Spots, Scalp Care, Scars, Sun damage
Babbasu Oil- Botanical Name: Orbignya Oleifera
Colour: Light Yellow-Transparent Source: Babbasu Palm Kernel Brazil
Shelf Life: up to 1 year
Uses: Food, Skincare, Cosmetics, Hair Care
Natural Hair Uganda
Benefits/Properties: Moisturizing, More Emollient than Coconut Oil, Healing,
No Oily Look, Anti-bacterial
Good For: Dry Skin, Itching, Eczema, Protectant, Soap Making
Baobab Oil- Botanical Name: Adansonia Dititata
Colour: Golden-Yellow Source: Baobab Fruit Seeds Africa
Shelf Life: 3 to 4 years (cool, dark, and dry area sealed tightly)
Uses: Skincare, Massage, Hair care
Benefits/Properties: Moisturizing, Hydrating, Absorbs quickly, Astringent, AntiFungal, Anti-inflammatory, Anti-Microbial
Good For: Dry Skin, Sensitive Skin, Wrinkles, Dry Hair, Cosmetics
Borage Seed Oil-(starflower oil) Botanical Name: Borago Officinalis
Colour: Deep Yellow-Faint Green Source: Borage Plant Seeds
Shelf Life: up to 6 months (refrigerate)
Contains: Alkaloids****Can be toxic if over consumed. Only 1-2 only 1-2 grams
daily
Uses: Dietary Supplement, Skincare, Massage, Cosmetics, Medicinal
Benefits/Properties: Very Penetrating, Regenerative, Stimulates Skin Cells, Do
not heat, dilute with another carrier oil 10% Borage 90% other, DO NOT USE
WHILE PREGNANT, MAY CAUSE PREMATURE LABOR
Good For: Aged Skin, Damaged Skin, Eczema, Psoriasis
Brazil Nut Oil- Botanical Name: Bertholletia Excelsa
Colour: Light Yellow Source: Brazil Nut Shelf Life: 18 months to 2 years
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Uses: Skincare, Hair care
Benefits/Properties: Hydrating, Emollient, Antioxidant Properties
Good For: Dry Skin, Aged Skin, Eczema, Psoriasis, Damaged Hair, Dry Hair,
Cosmetics, Hair Products, Soaps
Camelina Oil- (gold of pleasure, false flax) Botanical Name: Camelina Sativa
Colour: Dark Gold-Olive- Medium Gold Source: Camelina Flower Seeds
Shelf Life: up to 2 years
Uses: Skincare, Hair care, Cosmetics,
Benefits/Properties: Nourishing, Protective Properties, Reduces Skin Aging,
Improves Skin Elasticity, Similar to Flax Seed Oil, Antioxidant Properties
Good For: Sensitive Skin, Aged Skin, Eczema, Psoriasis, Eye Creams
Cocoa Butter
Botanical Name: Theobroma cacao
Aroma: Unrefined cocoa butter is rich and very sweet . It has a chocolaty,
"cocoa" aroma. The cocoa aroma is less noticeable in refined cocoa butter.
Texture: Solid and hard to work with at room temperate. Easily breaks into
pieces.
Colour: Yellowish tan.
Notes: Cocoa butter needs to be blended with other materials/oils to be
workable. Suitable for use in lotions and creams.
Camellia Seed Oil-(Tea Oil, Tea Seed Oil)
Botanical Name: Camellia Sinesis, Camellia Oleifera Colour: Golden GreenPale Yellow
Source: Camellia Flower Seed (Asia)
Shelf Life: up to 18 months
Uses: Food, Skincare, Hair care, Cosmetics
Benefits/Properties: Moisturizing, Penetrating, Emollient, Conditioning,
Cooling, Improves Complexion, Promotes Hair Growth, Antioxidant Properties.
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Good For: Dry Skin, Aged Skin, Allergy Prone Skin, Scalp Care, Scars, Can
Reduce Cholesterol
Castor Oil- Botanical Name: Ricinus Communis
Colour: Light Golden
Source: Castor Bean Shelf Life: up to 5 years
Uses: Skincare, Cosmetics
Benefits/Properties: Heals damaged inflamed skin, boosts growth, used in skin
cleansing, can be drying to skin but moisturizing to hair
Good For: Itching, Blackheads, Dandruff, Haemorrhoids, Cosmetics, Scalp Care
Chia Seed Oil- Botanical Name: Salvia Columbariae
Colour: Medium Yellow-Brown Source: Chia Seeds
Shelf Life: up to 1 year
Uses: Food, Dietary Supplement, Skincare
Benefits/Properties: Moisturizing, Hydrating, Retains Moisture, Antioxidant
Properties, Anti Inflammatory, Anti-Aging Properties
Good For: Dry Skin, Acne, Dermatitis, Eczema, Psoriasis, Auto Immune Skin
Conditions, Scars, Wrinkles
Coconut Oil-
Botanical Name: Cocos Nucifera
Colour: White (solid unrefined room temp.) Light Yellow to clear (when liquid)
Source: Dehydrated Coconut Meat Shelf Life: 2 to 4 years unrefined
Uses: Food, Skincare, Massage, Hair care, Cosmetics, Household
Benefits/Properties: Moisturizing, Conditioning, Protective Properties, Does
not clog pores, Non Greasy, Doesn’t stain, Helps extend shelf life of other
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carrier oils, *Make sure you purchase cold or expeller pressed organic
unrefined*, Refined oils, Part refined and fractionated lack nutrients
Good For: Dry Skin, Oily Skin, Sensitive Skin, Sunblock, Dry Hair, Split Ends,
Cosmetics, Creams, Soaps
Evening Primrose Oil-
Botanical Name: Oenothera Biennis
Colour: Light Yellow Source: Evening Primrose Seeds
Shelf Life: up to 6 months
Uses: Food, Skincare, Dietary Supplement, Hair care, Massage
Benefits/Properties: Healing, Astringent, Reduces Inflammation, Can Ease
Premenstrual Stress
Good For: Sensitive Skin, Eczema, Baby Skin, Rashes, Dry Hair, Cosmetics, Hair
Products, Arthritis, Breast Pain, Hot Flashes, Menstrual Problems, PMS
Flaxseed Oil-(Linseed Oil)
Botanical Name: Linum Usitatissimum
Colour: Medium-Dark Yellow Source: Flax Seeds (Linseed)
Shelf Life: up to 6 months (refrigerate)
Uses: Food, Dietary Supplement, Skincare
Benefits/Properties: Emollient, Astringent, Prevents Scarring and Stretch
Marks, Anti-Inflammatory, Anti-Septic, Anti-rheumatic, (Also Known as Linseed
Oil
Good For: Oily Skin, Acne, Eczema, Psoriasis, Scars, Stretch marks, High
Cholesterol, Heart Disease,
Grape seed Oil-
Botanical Name: Vitis Vinifera
Colour: Light Green Source: Grape Seeds Shelf Life: up to 1 year
Natural Hair Uganda
Uses: Food, Skincare, Massage, Perfumes
Benefits/Properties: Penetrating, slightly astringent, Reduces Skin Aging, does
not aggravate acne, not greasy, Antioxidant Properties increased in blood, antibacterial, anti-fungal
Good For: Oily Skin, Sensitive Skin, Skin that doesn’t absorb, oil
well. Cosmetics, High Heat Cooking
Hazelnut Oil-
Botanical Name: Corylus Avellana
Colour: Slightly Yellow Source: Hazelnuts Shelf Life: up to 1 year (refrigerate)
Uses: Food, Skincare, Massage, Hair care
Benefits/Properties: Moisturizing, Emollient, Regenerative, Astringent,
Soothing, Tones Skin, Stimulates Skin Circulation, Strengthens Skin Capillaries,
And Softens Hair
Good For: Dry Skin, Damaged Skin, Sunscreen, Wounds,
Hemp Seed Oil-
Botanical Name: Cannabis Sativa
Colour: Golden Brown-Deep Green Source: Finola Hemp Seeds Shelf Life: up
to 1 year (refrigerate)
Uses: Food, Skincare, Massage, Hair care, Cosmetics, Medicinal
Benefits/Properties: Conditioning, Regenerative, Reduces Skin Aging,
Increases hair elasticity, manageability, and shine, High in Proteins, Do not
heat, consume raw, Anti-Inflammatory
Good For: Dry Skin, Aged Skin, Damaged Skin, Wounds, Lesions, Cosmetics,
Hair Care, Laxative
Jojoba Oil-
Natural Hair Uganda
Botanical Name: Simmondsia Chinensi
Colour: Lightly Golden Brown Source: Jojoba Beans “goat nut” Shelf Life: 2 to
5 years
Uses: Skincare, Hair care, Cosmetics
Benefits/Properties: Quickly Absorbs, Nourishing, Protective Properties,
Similar to Collagen, Can Clog Pores, yet allows skin to breath, Dissolves excess
sebum, Can extend shelf life of other oils, Antioxidant Properties
Good For: Oily Skin, Inflammation, Acne, Dermatitis, Eczema, Psoriasis, Cradle
Cap, Stretch Marks, Sun tanning oil for those who burn quickly
Kukui Nut Oil-
Botanical Name: Aleurites Moluccans
Colour: Lightly Yellow- Brown Source: Kukui Nut Hawaii Shelf Life: up to 1 year
Uses: Skincare, Hair care, Candle making, Soaps
Benefits/Properties: Quickly Absorbs, Protective Properties used in Hawaii to
protect skin from, salt water, sun, and wind, No Greasy Feeling
Good For: Dry Skin, Eczema, Psoriasis, burns, lesions, chapped skin, lightest oil
for face
Macadamia Nut Oil- (Bouple Nut/ Bopple Nut)
Botanical Name: Macadamia Integrifolia, Macadamia Ternifolia
Colour: Yellow-Light Brown
Source: Macadamia Nut (Queensland Nut) (Australian Nut)
Shelf Life: up to 1 year (refrigerate)
Uses: Skincare, Hair care, Cosmetics, Baby Products
Benefits/Properties: Quickly Absorbs, Emollient, Highly Regenerative,
Protective Properties, Helps Prevent Sunburn, Resembles Sebum, sometimes
called Bouple nut or bopple nut oil
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Good For: Dry Skin, Aged Skin, Baby Skin, sunburns, wounds
Meadowfoam Seed Oil- Botanical Name: Limmanthes Alba
Colour: Light-Medium Gold Source: Meadowfoam Seeds Shelf Life: 1 to 5
years
Uses: Skincare, Hair care, Cosmetics, Nail Products, Pharmaceutical
Benefits/Properties: Moisturizing for skin and hair, Lubricant, Conditioning,
Retains Moisture
Good For: sunblock, cosmetics
Neem Oil- Botanical Name: Azadirachta Indica
Colour: Rich Green-Brown Source: Neem Seeds Shelf Life: up to 2 years
Uses: skincare, Hair care, Cosmetics, Medicinal, Dental, Gardening
Benefits/Properties: Dilute with other carrier oils prior to use! DO NOT USE
WHILE PREGNANT, OR NURSING, DO NOT USE ON CHILDREN OR PETS, Antibacterial, Anti-Fungal, Anti-Septic, Anti-Viral
Good For: Sensitive Skin, Skin Diseases/Disorders, Psoriasis Allergies, Sunburn,
lice, Scabies
Olive Oil-
Botanical Name: Olea Europaea
Colour: Deep green-Olive green Source: Olives Shelf Life: up to 2 years
Uses: Food, Skincare, Hair care, Cosmetics
Benefits/Properties: Penetrating, Soothing, Promotes Healthy Digestion and
can help prevent, Ulcers, Antioxidant Properties
Good For: Inflammation, Acne, Bruises, High Cholesterol, Hearth Health,
Sprains
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Pecan Oil-
Botanical Name: Carya Pecan
Colour: Brown
Source: Pecan nuts Shelf Life: up to 1 year
Uses: Food, Skincare
Benefits/Properties: Moisturizing, Healing, Leaves skin soft and supple, AntiInflammatory
Good For: Dry Skin, Cardiovascular Health, Digestion, Heart Health
Pumpkin Seed Oil-(green gold) Botanical Name: Cucurbita Pepo L.
Colour: Dark Green-Black/Amber Source: Pumpkin Seeds Shelf Life: up to 1
year (refrigerate)
Uses: Food, Dietary Supplement, Skincare, Cosmetics
Benefits/Properties: Emollient, Promotes Energy and Brain Function, Do not
heat- Use Raw, Antioxidant Properties
Good For: Most Skin Types, Cosmetics, Supplement
Rose Hip Oil-
Botanical Name: Rosa Canina
Colour: Amber/Orange Source: Rose Hip Seeds (Rosebush)
Shelf Life: up to 6 months (refrigerate)
Uses: Skincare, Massage, Cosmetics
Benefits/Properties: Regenerative, Non Greasy, Avoid with Acne and Oily
Blemished skin, Anti-Inflammatory
Good For: Dry Skin, Aged Skin, Damaged Skin, Eczema, Psoriasis,
Hyperpigmentation, Scars, Wrinkles, Brittle Nails
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Safflower Oil-
Botanical Name: Carthamus Tinctorius
Colour: Clear-Light Yellow Source: Safflower Seeds Shelf Life: 1 to 2 years
Uses: Food, Supplement, Skincare, Cosmetics
Benefits/Properties: Extremely Moisturizing, Nourishing, Conditioning,
Antioxidant Properties
Good For: Cosmetics, Balms, Scrubs, Bath Oils, Diabetes, Dietary Supplement
Sesame Oil-(Benne Oil, Gingle Oil, Teel Oil) Botanical Name: Sesame Indicum
Colour: Yellow-Golden Brown Source: Sesame Seeds Shelf Life: 6 months to 1
year
Uses: Skincare, Massage, Hair care, Cosmetics
Benefits/Properties: Moisturizing, Protective Properties, Soothing, Absorbs/
Removes Toxins, Works well with other Carrier Oils, Can Darken Hair colour,
Anti-Aging Properties
Good For: Eczema, Psoriasis, Blemishes, Cuts, Dandruff, Scrapes, Wounds,
Wrinkles, Cooking
Shea Butter Botanical Name: Butyrospermun parkii
Aroma: Nutty, fatty. Colour: Off-white/cream.
Texture: Solid but permeable at room temperature. Popular skin moisturiser
Notes: Suitable for use in lotions and creams.
Energetics: Shea butter is very nourishing and healing for the skin. It is very
healing when applied to scars. The scent is easily overpowered, meaning that
you can add any essential oil you like to lotions containing Shea butter and the
lotion will pick up the scent of the essential oil perfectly.
Sunflower Oil-
Botanical Name: Helianthus Annuus
Colour: Deep Yellow Source: Sunflower Seeds Shelf Life: 6 months to 1 year
Uses: Food, Skincare, Hair care, Cosmetics
Natural Hair Uganda
Benefits/Properties: Moisturizing, Quickly Absorbs, Regenerative, Great for
Massage, Can Help Break Down Fat Cells, Can Reduce Bad Cholesterol
Good For: All Skin Types, Dry Skin, Skin Diseases, Aged Skin, Sensitive Skin,
Bruises, Cradle Cap, Diaper Rash,
Tamanu Oil-
Botanical Name: Calophyllum Inophyllum
Colour: Dark Green Source: Tamanu Kernel Shelf Life: up to 1 year
Uses: Skincare, Hair care, Cosmetics, Nail Care, Foot care
Benefits/Properties: Emollient, Regenerative, Healing, Pain Relieving,
Antioxidant Properties, Anti-bacterial, Anti-Inflammatory, Anti- Microbial, Antineuralgic, Oil is very thick that it tends to Separate (this is normal)
Good For: Aged Skin, Damaged Skin, Acne, Psoriasis, Arthritis, Lesions, Burns,
Bruises, Chemical Burns, Cuts, Rashes, Sores, Stretch Marks
Watermelon Seed Oil-(Kalahari) Botanical Name: Citrullus Vulgaris
Colour: Light Yellow Source: Watermelon Seeds Shelf Life: up to 2 years
Uses: Skincare, Hair care, Cosmetics
Benefits/Properties: Hydrating, Penetrating, Regenerative, Non Greasy, Does
not clog Pores, Dissolves excess sebum
Good For: All Skin Types, Dry Skin, Oily Skin, Aged Skin, Acne, Babies Skin
Wheat Germ Oil- Botanical Name: Triticum Vulgare
Colour: Amber Brown Source: Wheat Kernel Shelf Life: up to 1 year
Uses: Food, Skincare, Cosmetics
Benefits/Properties: Moisturizing, Emollient, Regenerative, Stimulates Skin
Tissue, Do not Heat, Antioxidant Properties
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Good For: Irritated Skin, Chaffing, Cracked Skin, Rough Skin, Wrinkles
19.What are the remedies for damaged, breaking hair?
When kinky coily/ curly hair or hair as a whole is damaged it is characterised by
the following signs; dullness (lacks sheen), straw like, limp/lifeless, rough
surface as a result of gaps in the cuticles which leave the hair dry and overly
porous.
Damaged hair can be as a result of chemicals, heat, neglect, mechanical
(combs and hair tools that damage the cuticles)
-Use moisturizing products to restore the moisture that is being lost due to
damaged cuticles.
-Reinforce the hair with regular protein treatments to add tensile strength to
the strands and to seal the gaps in the cuticles. Your initial deep treatment
should be an intensive combination of protein and moisture
-LOC method of moisturising to seal in moisture
-Make use of leave-in conditioners to add extra conditioning to hair for lasting
moisture and strength
-Trim the worse off ends that can’t be helped-these could either be split ends
or utterly dried and broken ends. By letting go of these ends you are allowing
the healthier parts of the hair to get more nutrients.
20. What can I do to restore my broken edges?
Thin/broken edges can be as a result of various reasons- genetics , post-partum
hair loss, Traction alopecia (very common for many), auto-immuno diseases
that cause the body to attack the hair follicles , scalp infections
-A crucial step in restoring not just your hairline but anywhere else that is
experiencing hair loss is to first rejuvenate the hair follicles so that they can
reproduce hair again. Blood circulation needs to be increased to the roots of
the hair
 Hair loss from traction alopecia occurs when there is hair loss due to
tension/stress on the edges either from tight ponytails, elastic
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hairbands, tiny braids, using a hairbrush with hard bristles to roughly
brush your edges. If this is the case you need to refrain from braiding or
tight updos and ponytails till your edges rest, avoid tight elastic
hairbands, avoid hairstyles that pull back on your hair, if you have a
naturally sensitive hairline then avoid tight scarves or elastic ones and
opt for satin pillowcases instead
 Use stimulating essential oils like rosemary, peppermint or a nutritive oil
like carrot essential oil or a soothing essential oil like lavender in a base
of castor oil to restore your edges. If a scalp infection is the cause of the
loss then add tea tree essential oil to the mix. Warm up the oil and
gently massage on the edges twice a week.
NOTE to breastfeeding mothers if you are suffering from post-partum
hair loss please stick to carrier oils and avoid essential oils because
unlike most remedies that act directly at a targeted area, essential oils
act like hormones triggering a change in the body by interacting with
the body system and we are not sure how this interferes with the
baby’s fragile system when they take it through the mother’s milk
 MASSAGE, MASSAGE, MASSAGE – a massage when done right is very
stimulating and draws blood to the scalp surface thus nourishing the
follicles. You don’t have to massage only when applying tour stimulating
oils but you can do this for a few seconds when you’re watching the
telly, or before bed etc.
 NUTRITIVE CONTENT- This is goes for everyone who is undergoing hair
loss more so breast feeding mothers because much as you create a
conducive environment on your scalp to promote growth, you have to
give your body the tools to create the growth. Hair is made up keratin
which is a protein so increase your protein intake. Vitamins are crucial
because they stimulate cell regeneration especially the B-complex
vitamins so it’s essential to add these to your diet. Other food groups to
consider are Omega 3 Fatty acids (flaxseed, cod liver oil, cereals, fish,
chia seeds), minerals are also crucial to hair re-growth especially silica
(dubbed the beauty mineral). The assured way of getting your entire
mineral content intact is through green vegetables and fruit – cooking
kills some of the nutritive content of the foods so it is best to make sure
that you include a salad at each meal to get the nutrients in their raw
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entirety. Or have a daily intake of smoothies daily (for breastfeeding
mothers you’ll find that not only does it boost your nutrient content but
it also boosts milk production).Adding both vegetables, fruits and some
yoghurt to your smoothie/juices encompasses your nutritive needs. You
could also include super-foods to your diet-These are foods that have
double-triple the nutritive content of other foods and they have various
food values and minerals too. These include kale , Greek yoghurt, chia,
oatmeal, green tea, watermelon, spinach, moringa . If you are not sure
that you are getting all your nutritive content then you can opt for a
multi-vitamin infact most nursing mothers are encouraged to continue
their pre-natal vitamins
 Here are other options to consider that have worked for hair loss tooaloe Vera due to its high nutritive content and soothing and cleansing
abilities. Miconazole Nitrate and sulphur treatments to cure scalp
infections and cure dandruff because dandruff flakes clog the scalp
pores and thus restricting growth. Vitamin E, jojoba oil, coconut oil,
Ayurveda hair herbs.
21. Ingredients in hair products.
If you have dry, hard hair then you need look for humectants in your
ingredients list. Below are a list of the various humectants that are
added to your hair products
Diols and Triols- hexanetriol Butylene Glycol Dipropylene glycol
Hexylene Glycol Glycerin Triethylene glycol Erythritol Capryl glycol
Phytantriol Hexanediol or -triol beeswax
Humectants of biological origin-Panthenol Sodium PCA Hyaluronic acid
Inositol Glycogen
Sugars and modified sugars-Sorbitol Polyglyceryl sorbitol Glucose
Fructose Xylitol
Hydrolyzed proteins-Elastin, Collagen Silk Keratin
Ethers-Isoceteth-x, Isolaureth-x, Laneth-x, Laureth-x, Steareth-x PEG-x
(polyethylene glycol)Silicone copolyols
Vegetable Humectants – aloe vera, vegetable glycerine
OTHER Humectants- Honey
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OTHER GREAT INGREDIENTS TO LOOK FOR-Water/aqua (great for dry hair)
-Natural oils and butters(emollient properties and keeps hair soft,
conditioned, possess healing and soothing properties , give slip for
detangling and locks in moisture etc). Make sure that coconut, olive or
avocado oils are at the top of the list because these are deeply
penetrating oils to carry moisture and nutrients to the core of the strand
-Essential oils- these offer so many great properties to hair like healing,
growth, moisturization, conditioning etc
-Aloe vera – moisturising, soothing, anti – inflammatory, boosts growth,
provides an optimal scalp PH
-Hydrolysed proteins or silk –for damaged hair that needs repair
INGREDIENTS TO AVOID
1. Sodium Lauryl/Laureth Sulfate (SLS) — is a detergent used in most
shampoos, shaving creams, and bubble baths for its cleansing and
foaming properties. Like most harsh detergents found in your shampoo,
SLS strips the hair of its natural oils — often leaving it dry and brittle. SLS
may also cause eye irritation, scalp scurf similar to dandruff, skin rashes,
and other allergic reactions.
2. Diethanolamine (DEA), Triethanolamine (TEA) — These ingredients
are used to stabalize the pH of most personal care products. Depending
on the individual, DEA and TEA may cause allergic reactions and eye
irritation, as well as dry hair and skin.Iif either of these compounds
interact with nitrites – often present as contaminants in personal care
products, a chemical reaction may result, which can lead to the creation
of cancer-causing nitrosamines.
3. Parabens (Methyl, Propyl, Butyl and Ethyl) — Parabens are the most
commonly used preservative in shampoos, conditioners, and other
styling products. The antimicrobial properties of these chemicals help to
extend the shelf life of most cosmetics and personal care products by
two to three years. Parabens have long been considered safe — but a
few recent studies have suggested that these chemicals may actually
lead to breast cancer. The validity of these studies have been challenged
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due to the lack of experimental evidence, but such alarming claims
continue to be the subject of further investigation.
4. Diazolidinyl Urea, Imidazolidinyl Urea — After parabens, ureas are
the most commonly used preservative in cosmetics and personal care
products. Under certain circumstances, exposure to ureas may cause
contact dermatitis.
5. Lanolin, Petroleum and Mineral Oil — These cheap ingredients are
widely used in pomades formulated for black hair and offer no real
moisturizing benefits. In fact, these ingredients often weigh the hair
down and prevent the natural oils produced by the scalp from being
absorbed by the hair shaft. Opt for natural oils for their conditioning
properties.
6. Propylene Glycol — This humectant is commonly found in shampoos,
lotions, deoderants, mouthwashes, and toothpastes to give a product
“glide” or “slip.” This chemical is an active ingredient in brake and
hydraulic fluid. Recent findings indicate that propylene glycol may cause
allergic reactions, dermatitis, dry skin, hives, and eczema. Because it is
easily absorbed by the skin, workers are required to wear protective
gloves, clothing, and goggles when handling it. Beware of PEG
(polyethylene glycol) or PPG (polypropylene glycol)—they are related
synthetics.
7. Synthetic Colors — Artificial colors are used widely in hair care
products for aesthetic purposes. These ingredients frequently appear as
FD&C or D&C followed by a color and a number (e.g. FD&C Red No. 6 /
D&C Green No. 6). Color pigments may cause skin sensitivity and
irritation. The safety of these ingredients is also questionable — because
they are derived primarily from coal tar, a known carcinogen.
8. Formaldehyde — This cheap preservative is used in hair care products
containing water to prevent the growth of bacteria. Formaldehyde is a
suspected carcinogen and may cause skin reactions, trigger heart
palpitations, or lead to joint pain, allergies, headaches, chest pains, ear
infections, and dizziness. Some preservatives are called formaldehyde
donors because when they are broken down by our bodies one of the
components is formaldehyde
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10. Coal Tar — Many shampoos designed to treat dandruff contain coal
tar — although it’s frequently absent from the product’s list of
ingredients. Protect yourself and be on the look out for this compound,
which is disguised in many forms (e.g. “Stantar”, “Clinitar”, “Medi-Tar”
and “Polytar”). It should be noted that that coal tar is a carcinogen
under certain conditions though many anti-dandruff products include it
in their ingredients. Still, in addition to being a cancer hazard, coal tar
has been found to cause allergic reactions, asthma attacks, headaches,
nausea, fatigue, nervousness, and lack of concentration.
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