NO FEAR:
HOW TO FORMULATE HAIR COLOR
Self-Training Guide for Formulating Color
1. The Level System…….What is it?
B
l
o
n
d
B
r
o
w
n
Black
2. Tonal Value?
Red
Gold
Ash
Neutral
Example: 10N means the level is10 and
the tone is Neutral
9G = level 9 Gold tones
7R = level 7 Red tones
5 A= level 5 Ash tones
3. The color Wheel: It is the Law
Primary colors
Yellow
Blue
Red
The color Wheel
Secondary colors
Orange
Green
Violet
The Color Wheel
Complementary colors
Keep it simple rules:
4. What is the DRP?
5.
Hair Texture
6.
Color Formulation
To be able to determine color formulation and effectively
color the hair, begin by answering the following questions?
a. What level of color is the client’s hair?
b. What level of color does that client desire?
c. What shade or color does that client prefer?
(example: red, ash, neutral, or gold)
d. What base color will neutralize or enhance the client’s
color choice?
e. Does the client have fine, medium, or coarse hair?
Example of color formulation:
Consider the following example, for lifting the
natural hair color using the level system:
Client’s preferred color is a level 7.
Client’s natural color is a level 4.
Client’s texture is medium.
Client does not want to enhance
the warm tones.
Subtract the natural color level from the level the client wishes to
achieve.
Add the difference to the preferred color level. This will give you the
proper color level to achieve the desired results:
Preferred level of color
Natural level of color (subtract)
Difference
Preferred level of color
Difference (add)
Level to use
Level 7 Blond
- Level 4 Brown
= 3 Levels
Level 7 Blond
+ 3 Levels
= Level 10 Blond
The level of color to be used is a level 10 blond with a blue base. The
base color must be blue, or the orange (DRP) will show through and
be too warm.
Review of the color formulation:
The client is a level 4 brown and wants to be a level 7 blond. The
difference between the natural level of color (where the client is)
and the desired level of color (where the client wants to be) is the
three levels. If you use a level 7 color will the desired results be
achieved?
Explanation of color choice:
No! One must use a color that will account for the difference
between the client’s natural level and the client’s preferred level.
A level 10 color is the correct choice, with the appropriate base
color. However, using a level 10, which contains only pale yellow
dyes, will not keep the orange in a level 7 from showing through.
The results will be brassy. The medium texture does not change
the formula.
Practice Scenario for formulating hair color:
Consider the information learned and formulate the color to use on
this client. Provide an explanation for the color choice.
Client’s preferred color is a level 8 blond.
Client’s natural color is a level 6 brown.
Client’s texture is medium.
Client wants to be a warm red color.
Preferred level of color
Natural level of color (subtract)
Difference
Preferred level of color
Difference (add)
Level to use
Level ______
- Level ______
= ____ Levels
Level -_____
+______Level
= Level _____
Answer to Practice Scenario:
Preferred level of color
Natural level of color (subtract)
Difference
Preferred level of color
Difference (add)
Level to use
Level ___8___
- Level ___6___
= __2__ Levels
Level -__8___
+___2___Level
= Level ___10__
Explanation for scenario:
The client is a level 6 brown and wants to be a level 8 red. The
difference between the natural level of color (where the client is) and
the desired level of color (where the client wants to be) is the two
levels. If one uses a level 8 color, will the desired results be achieved?
No! A color that will account for the difference between the
client’s natural level and the client’s preferred level.
A level 10 color is the correct choice, with the appropriate
base color. Since you are lightening the client's hair, the warm tones will
appear. Select a level 10 with a warm red base. The medium texture
does not change the formula.
Post-Test
Fill in the blanks below:
1. _________________ is the numerical system of judging color in stages, or
numbers, one level of being a measure of light or dark in the hair.
2. In the tonal value of hair color, what does each letter represent?
A=________, N=_______________, G=____________, R=___________
3. List three primary color: ___________, ___________, ___________
4. List three secondary color: _________, ____________, ___________
5. List the three complementary pairs: ______________, ___________,
__________________
6. What happens when you mix complementary colors together? ____
________________________________________________________
7. What does DRP represent in hair coloring? ________________________
______________________________________________.
8. List the three-hair textures ___________, _____________, ___________
9. Explain how hair texture effects hair color?________________________
__________________________________________________________
Answer Key to Post-test
1. Level System
2. Ash, Neutral, Gold, Red
3. Red, yellow, blue
4. Green, orange, violet
5. Blue-orange, violet-yellow, greenred
6. There will be a browning out effect;
the mixed colors will neutralize each
other.
7. Dominating Remaining Pigment
8. Fine, medium, coarse
9. The amount of time will vary with
each texture