Chemical Texturizing
FOR SUCCESS
COMMUNICATING
1.4
12.1
Chemical Relaxing
Copyright 2013 © WSCAP Washington State Apprentice Program
• A History of Black Hair From the 1400s to Present
• 1444: Europeans trade on the west coast of Africa with people wearing elaborate hairstyles, including locks,
plaits and twists.
• 1619: First slaves brought to Jamestown; African language, culture and grooming tradition begin to
disappear.
• 1700s: Calling black hair “wool,” many whites dehumanize slaves. The more elaborate African hairstyles
cannot be retained.
• 1800s: Without the combs and herbal treatments used in Africa, slaves rely on bacon grease, butter and
kerosene as hair conditioners and cleaners. Lighter-skinned, straight-haired slaves command higher prices at
auction than darker, more kinky-haired ones. Internalizing color consciousness, blacks promote the idea that
blacks with dark skin and kinky hair are less attractive and worth less.
• 1865: Slavery ends, but whites look upon black women who style their hair like white women as welladjusted. “Good” hair becomes a prerequisite for entering certain schools, churches, social groups and
business networks.
• 1880: Metal hot combs, invented in 1845 by the French, are readily available in the United States. The comb
is heated and used to press and temporarily straighten kinky hair.
• 1900s: Madame C.J. Walker develops a range of hair-care products for black hair. She popularizes the pressand-curl style. Some criticize her for encouraging black women to look white.
• 1910: Walker is featured in the Guinness Book of Records as the first American female self-made millionaire.
• 1920s: Marcus Garvey, a black nationalist, urges followers to embrace their natural hair and reclaim an
African aesthetic.
• 1954: George E. Johnson launches the Johnson Products Empire with Ultra Wave Hair Culture, a
“permanent” hair straightener for men that can be applied at home. A women’s chemical straightener
follows.
• http://www.reunionblackfamily.com/apps/blog/show/12783944-a-history-of-black-hair-from-the-1400s-topresent
Interesting Timeline
• 1917 The first Lye relaxers sold in US
• 1919 The first no-lye relaxers available
• 1971 first patent issued for lye relaxers
• 1973 first Thio relaxers
CHEMICAL HAIR RELAXERS
DR. KARI ILLIAMS
Measha Brueggergosman
CHEMICAL HAIR RELAXERS
• Chemical hair relaxing is the process of rearranging the
basic structure of extremely curly hair into a straight or less
curly form.
• The chemical process is very similar although the results
are opposite from permanent waving hair.
• The chemistry of thio relaxers and permanent waving is
exactly the same.
• All relaxing and permanent waving services change the
shape of the hair by breaking disulfide bonds.
TWO MOST COMMON TYPES
• Ammonium thioglycolate
• Also known as thio relaxers
Ammonium thioglycolate is also known as a perm salt. It is a
chemical compound with the formula HSCH2CO2NH4.
• Sodium hydroxide
• Also called hydroxide relaxers
• The main ingredient of "lye" relaxers is sodium
hydroxide;
• no-lye relaxers contain calcium hydroxide and
guanidine carbonate
CHARACTERISTICS
• Highly alkaline; can literally melt or dissolve hair
if used incorrectly.
• Most use same ingredients as depilatories.
EXTREMELY CURLY HAIR
• This type of hair exists in all races.
• All races can have hair with different degrees of curliness.
• This hair grows in long twisted spirals or coils.
• Cross-sections are highly elliptical and vary in shape and thickness.
• The hair is irregular in diameter along a single strand.
• Twists of extremely curly hair are the weakest, and that’s where hair
will usually break.
THIO RELAXERS
• These usually have a pH above 10.
• Main ingredient is ammonium thioglycolate.
• These usually have a higher concentration of ammonium
thioglycolate than used in permanent waving.
• These are thicker, with a higher viscosity that is more suitable for
application as a relaxer.
• They break disulfide bonds and soften hair.
• After enough bonds are broken, hair is straightened into new
shape and relaxer is rinsed from hair.
THIO NEUTRALIZATION
• The neutralizer is an oxidizing agent—usually
hydrogen peroxide.
• The reaction rebuilds disulfide bonds that
were broken by the thio relaxer.
HYDROXIDE RELAXERS
• The hydroxide ion is the active ingredient.
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Sodium hydroxide
Potassium hydroxide
Lithium hydroxide
Guanidine hydroxide
• All types of hydroxide relaxers have strong alkalis
that can swell hair up to twice its normal diameter
HYDROXIDE RELAXERS
• These are not compatible with thio relaxers.
• They have a pH of 13.0 or more.
• Because each step in the pH scale is a tenfold
change in concentration, a pH of 13.0 is 100
million times more alkaline than a pH of 5.0.
HYDROXIDE RELAXERS
• Hydroxide relaxers remove one atom of sulfur from a disulfide
bond and convert it to a lanthionine bond by a process called
lanthionization.
• Disulfide bonds contain two sulfur atoms.
• Lanthionine bonds contain one sulfur atom.
• Disulfide bonds that are broken by hydroxide relaxers are
broken permanently and can never be re-formed.
HYDROXIDE NEUTRALIZATION
• This process does not involve oxidation.
• Deactivation occurs by using an acid-balanced
shampoo or a normalizing lotion.
• CAUTION: Hair that has been treated with
hydroxide relaxers is unfit for thio relaxers or soft
curl permanents.
TYPES OF
HYDROXIDE
RELAXERS
METAL HYDROXIDE RELAXERS
• These are ionic compounds formed by a metal that is
combined with oxygen and hydrogen.
• Metal hydroxide relaxers include:
• Sodium hydroxide relaxers commonly called lye relaxers or caustic soda;
this is the most common type of hair relaxer. It’s the same chemical as
used in drain cleaners and chemical hair depilatories.
• Lithium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide, which are often advertised as
“no mix-no lye” relaxers. They are not “lye,” but their chemistry and
performance is identical.
GUANIDINE HYDROXIDE RELAXERS
• Are advertised and sold as “no • Recommended for sensitive
lye” relaxers
scalps
• Hydroxide the active
ingredient
• Require two components that
must be mixed
• Straighten hair completely
• Irritate scalp less than
hydroxide relaxers
• Sold over the counter
• Reduce scalp irritation
• Do not reduce hair damage
• Swell hair more than other
hydroxide relaxers and are also
more drying
LOW pH RELAXERS
• Sulfites and bisulfites are sometimes used as low-pH hair relaxers.
• The most commonly used are ammonium sulfite and ammonium
bisulfite.
• They are compatible with thio relaxers.
• They are not compatible with hydroxide relaxers.
• They do not completely straighten extremely curly hair.
• Low pH relaxers are intended for use on color-treated hair.
BASE AND NO-BASE RELAXERS
BASE RELAXERS
• These require
application of a base
cream.
• A base cream is an oily
cream used to protect
skin and scalp during
hair relaxing.
NO-BASE RELAXERS
• Protective base is not
required.
• These contain a base cream
that melts at body
temperature.
• Protective base cream may
be applied around ears and
hairline.
RELAXER STRENGTHS
• Available in Three Strengths
• Mild—for fine, color-treated, or damaged hair
• Regular—intended for normal hair texture
• Super—used on extremely curly, coarse hair
CHEMICAL HAIR RELAXING
PROCEDURES
Keratin Complex Smoothing Therapy
Global Keratin Treatment
Naomi Campbell
HYDROXIDE RELAXER
• Many steps for both thio and hydroxide relaxers
are the same.
• All hydroxide relaxers follow the same
procedure, but different application methods are
used for virgin and retouch relaxers.
VIRGIN RELAXER
• This application is used only for hair that
has not had previous chemical texture
services.
• Product is applied ¼ to ½ an inch from
scalp up to the porous ends.
• To avoid overprocessing and scalp
irritation, do not apply relaxer to scalp
hair or ends until last few minutes of
processing.
RETOUCH RELAXER
• This application is used for hair that has had
previous chemical texture services.
• Application starts ¼ to ½ inch away from scalp
and includes new growth only.
• To avoid overprocessing and scalp irritation,
do not apply relaxer to the scalp until the last
few minutes of processing.
• Normalizing solution is a conditioner with an
acidic pH that conditions the hair and restores
the natural pH after rinsing out the .relaxer
and prior to shampooing.
PERIODIC STRAND TESTING
• This test indicates when hair is
sufficiently relaxed.
• After relaxer is applied, stretch
strands to see how fast natural
curls are being removed.
• If strand remains smooth, it’s
sufficiently relaxed.
• If curl returns, continue
processing.
THIO RELAXER PROCEDURES
• Application steps are the same for hydroxide relaxers except that the
neutralization procedure is different.
• Relaxer may be applied with bowl and brush, applicator bottle, or
back of rattail comb.
SOFT CURL PERMANENT
• Soft curl permanents do not
straighten hair.
• They make existing curl larger and
looser.
• This is also called a Jheri curl.
• A combination of thio relaxer and
thio permanent is wrapped on large
rods.
• Soft curl perms use ammonium
thioglycolate and oxidation
neutralizers.
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
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Perform a thorough hair analysis and client consultation.
Examine the scalp for abrasions.
Keep accurate and detailed client records of the services.
Have client sign release statement.
Do not apply a hydroxide relaxer on hair previously treated with
thio relaxer and vice versa.
Do not chemically relax hair treated with a metallic dye.
Do not relax overly damaged hair.
Do not shampoo the client prior to a hydroxide relaxer service.
Apply a protective base cream to avoid scalp irritation.
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
• Wear gloves during the relaxer application.
• Protect the client’s eyes.
• Do not allow chemical relaxers to contact client’s ears, scalp, or skin.
• Perform periodic strand tests.
• Avoid scratching scalp with comb or fingernails.
• Do not allow application of a relaxer retouch to overlap onto
previously relaxed hair.
• Never use a strong relaxer on fine or damaged hair.
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
• Do not attempt to remove more than 80 percent of the
natural curl.
• Thoroughly rinse chemical relaxer from the hair.
• Use a normalizing lotion to restore hair to natural pH.
• Use neutralizing shampoo with a color indicator to
guarantee that hair and scalp have been restored to normal
acidic pH.
• Use a conditioner and wide-tooth comb to eliminate
excessive stretching when combing out tangles.
• Do not use hot irons or excessive heat on chemically relaxed
hair.
SUMMARY
• One of the best ways to control the texture of your client’s
extremely curly hair is through the use of chemical relaxers.
• Sodium hydroxide is used most often in hair relaxing.
• Thorough hair and scalp examination is critical before giving
any type of chemical service; it will also help you to
determine the type of product and strength of product to be
used.
• A strand test will guide you in how long the product should
be left on the hair.
SUMMARY
• Follow manufacturers’ directions.
• The speed attained in applying relaxer is very important in
the service.
• Extensive practice using mock products will help you gain
speed of application.
• It is important to review, remember, and practice all the
safety precautions identified for these services.
• Remember never to relax the hair more than 80 percent.