Glossary
Acid
A substance with a relatively high concentration of hydrogen ions
and a pH of less than 7
Alkaline
A substance with a relatively low concentration of hydrogen ions and
a pH of greater than 7
Alopecia
Loss of hair; baldness. This can be hereditary or it could be caused
by poor health, stress or as a result of some treatments such as
chemotherapy
Alpha keratin
The natural state of an individual’s hair
Anagen
The active growth stage of the hair growth cycle
Arrector pili muscle
This muscle is attached to the hair follicle. When the body
temperature falls, the arrector pili muscle contracts to help trap the
air in-between each hair; creating warmth on the skin surface
Barber’s itch
A bacterial infection which may appear as irritated, red spots around
the beard area
Beta keratin
The temporary position of an individual’s hair after perming,
neutralising or styling
Bleach
To chemically remove the colour pigment from the hair
Capillary loop
This is a network of capillary blood vessels at the base of the hair,
supplying oxygen, amino acids and energy needed for hair growth
Catagen
The breakdown and change stage of the hair growth cycle
Climazone
Produces dry heat to aid the deep penetration of conditioning
products
Connective tissue
Tissue that connects other tissues or structural parts of the body
Contagious
A condition that can be passed on by direct or indirect contact with
another individual
Contraindication
A reason not to carry out or to restrict a treatment
Corn row
A type of braid where hair is plaited along the scalp to achieve a
variety of effects
Corrosive
A substance capable of destroying living tissue on contact, causing
irritation, inflammation or even severe burns
Cortex
Found in the hair shaft, the cortex provides strength to the hair and
contains the hair colour pigment, melanin
COSHH
Control of Substances Hazardous to Health Regulations (2003)
Cuticle
The outer layer of the hair shaft. The cuticles protect the hair and
overlay the hair shaft like fish scales
Depth
How light or dark the hair colour is
Dermal papilla
The papilla contains the blood vessels that nourish the hair. It is
found at the base of the hair follicle and contains receptors for male
hormones called androgens. Androgens regulate hair growth
Dermatitis
An irritation of the skin caused by an allergic reaction or irritant. The
skin becomes red, sore, itchy and even blistered
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Disulphide bonds
Found in the cortex of the hair, disulphide bonds cannot be broken
with water. They can only be broken during chemical processes like
perming or colouring, to permanently change the hair
Effleurage
A massage movement using slow, light, superficial movements to
spread shampoo through the hair
Epidermis
This is the visible outer layer of the skin and consists of five layers
Fish braid
A type of plaiting used on longer hair where hair is plaited in six
sections
Flammable
A liquid or solid capable of igniting at relatively low temperatures
Follicle
A shaft that opens onto the skin surface and surrounds the hair root,
lined by the inner and outer root sheath
Folliculitis
A bacterial infection which may appear as small, yellow pus-filled
spots at the base of the hair
Fragilitis crinium
Another name for split ends, often caused by chemical treatments,
harsh rubbing and drying after washing
Freehand
A technique for cutting the hair without using the fingers or a comb to
isolate the section being cut
Friction
A massage movement using fast, vigorous movements over the
surface of the skin during shampooing
Graduated layered cut A graduated layered cut is cut at a specific angle or shape. It has
longer layers on the outside of the head, with shorter layers
underneath or top layers shorter than underneath layers
Granular layer
Found in the epidermis of the skin
Hair shaft
The hair shaft extends above the skin surface and is made up of
dead cells
Hazard
Anything that has the potential for causing harm
Head lice
An infestation of parasites that lay eggs in the hair
Henle’s layer
The first layer of the inner root sheath. It is only one cell thick
High-frequency unit
Portable generator producing an electric current used during scalp
massage
Highlighting
To make the hair colour prominent so that it stands out
Humidity
The amount of moisture in the air
Huxley’s layer
The second layer of the inner root. It is two or more cells thick
Hydrogen bonds
Found in the hair cortex, hydrogen bonds can be re-formed to
temporarily change the shape of the hair during setting, styling and
heat treatments
Hydrogen peroxide
A chemical found in hair colour, high-lift tint and bleach. It releases
oxygen and binds to the hair pigments, permanently changing the
colour
Impetigo
A highly contagious, bacterial infection. It can be found on the skin
and face, and is spread through touch. It may appear as weeping dry
blisters around the mouth or on the skin
Infestation
Can be caused by lice found in the hair, skin and genitals area
Inhalation
The act of inhaling or breathing in
Inner root sheath
Found in the hair follicle, it consists of three layers; Henle’s layer,
Huxley’s layer and the cuticle layer
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Irritant
A non-corrosive substance that could affect the skin, eyes or
respiratory system, causing skin sensitivity or inflammation
Keratin
A protein found in the hair, skin and nails
Legislation
The act or process of lawmaking
Medulla
The inner core of the hair
Monilethrix
A condition caused by uneven production of keratin which can make
the hair weak
Neutral
A substance with a pH of 7
Outer root sheath
Surrounds the inner root sheath in the hair follicle
Oxidising agent
A substance that oxidises another substance. Oxidising agents are
unstable and can be corrosive or flammable
Performance
A means to provide a measure of how you are progressing as you
indicators
work towards your targets
Permanent colour
It will remain in the hair until it grows out
Petrissage
A massage movement using a slow, deep, kneading movement to
increase blood flow to the scalp
Pityriasis capitis
(otherwise known as Dandruff) Caused by the over-production of
epidermal cells which are then shed. It will appear as small, white
flakes in the hair and may cause itchiness
Porosity
The amount of water or liquid capable of penetrating into the hair
Primary colour
A colour that cannot be created by mixing other colours in the
spectrum. The primary colours are red, yellow and blue
Psoriasis
Caused by the over-production of epidermal cells and may appear
as thick, dry scales, usually found in the hairline and behind the ears
Razoring
A cutting technique to remove the bulk and some length of the hair
Risk
The likelihood that a hazard will cause harm
Roller ball
Produces infrared heat, circulated by a fan to ensure even
application of heat over the whole head
Rotary
A massage movement using small, fast, circular movements to help
remove dirt and grease using the pads of the fingers
Scabies
Caused by parasites and highly contagious, it appears as itchy, red
spots or lines on the skin (hands or/and feet)
Scalp plait
(sometimes referred to as French braid) This type of plait is created
from the hairline down the centre of the head. Hair is plaited in three
sections
Sebaceous cyst
Commonly found on the scalp, face or ears, it appears as a closed
sac or lump beneath the surface of the skin filled with sebum
Sebaceous gland
It secretes sebum; an oily substance that lubricates the hair and
follicle to keep them moist and protected
Seborrhea
Caused by overactive sebaceous glands, it appears as excessive oil
on the scalp
Sebum
An oily substance secreted from the sebaceous gland. The sebum
lubricates the hair and follicle to keep them moist and protected
Secondary colour
A colour created by mixing two primary colours. The secondary
colours are green, orange and violet
Semi-permanent
Glossary
Coats and stains the cuticle and will last from 4 – 8 washes
3
colour
SMART objective
This stands for specific, measurable, achievable, realistic and timely,
and can be used as a guide when setting targets
Steamer
Produces moist heat via the evaporation of distilled water to aid the
deep penetration of treatments
Surfactant
An active cleansing substance found in shampoo. It is a detergent
and wetting agent that reduces the surface tension of liquids like
water and is easily spread onto the hair
Telogen
The resting stage of the hair growth cycle
Temporary colour
A colour that will wash out when the hair is next shampooed
Thinning
A cutting technique to remove bulk from the hair
Tinea capitis
(otherwise known as Ringworm) A highly contagious fungal condition
that appears as small, scaly, pink patches on the scalp
Tone
The shade or level of colour found in the hair
Toxic
A substance that could seriously damage a person’s health if it were
inhaled swallowed or absorbed through the skin. Protective clothing
must be worn when handling toxic substances
Trichorrhexis nodosa Broken or damaged hair, caused by physical damage or harsh
treatments
Uniform layered cut
To achieve a layered cut, all sections of the hair must be cut to the
same length
Vertical
In an upright position
Vibro-massager
An electrically operated massager designed to produce movements
similar to the petrissage and friction movements delivered by hand
Vitreous membrane
Separates the connective tissue from the outer root sheath
Warts
Warts are caused by a viral infection and will appear as small raised
lumps of skin
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