l i v i n g & s t u d y i n g i n f l o r e n c e - j a n / f e b 2 0 1 4 l veFlorence benvenuti a firenze pitti immagine Events & exhibitions Restaurants, Nightlife & Wellness jan/feb 2014 welcome Benvenuti a Firenze Fashion Events Pitti Pitti Pitti Pitti Uomo W Bimbo Filati Itineraries Uffizi Gallery LoveFlorence Year #12 – Issue #1 January/February 2014 Free magazine for international students also published online at www.loveflorence.it Editorial office: info@megareview.it Advertising inquiries: commerciale@megareview.it Tel. +39.055.412199 The Publisher is pleased to acknowledge the authorship and author’s rights of any photos whose source it has not been possible to trace. While every care has been taken to ensure accuracy, the publisher cannot be held responsible for any errors or changes in the information provided. Published by MARKED srl Tel +39.055.412199 2 Exhibitions & events Hats, between Art & Eccentricity Other Exhibitions Events Classical Music Shopping Shop ‘till You Drop Wellness Let’s go Skiing Wellness Reviews gourmet Arnold Coffee Flavours of Tuscany Gelaterie Reviews Pizza Pizza Pizza! nightlife 4 8 12 14 15 16 22 24 32 34 38 42 46 50 52 54 58 Nightlife Reviews 60 CIty MAP 62 welcome benvenuti a Firenze A Florentine Facebook A s I stepped out of the Florence Airport it finally hit me. I was no longer in the United States; I was in Italia. I had known I was studying abroad in the fall semester of 2009 eight months prior to my arrival, yet it only hit me when I arrived at night in a country where I knew no one and did not speak the native language. I think I was terrified. However, the moment of panic passed as I realized how lucky I was to be in such a beautiful city; so I took a taxi to my apartment, met my wonderful roommates, and began my amazing time abroad in Florence. Here is my personal Facebook on Florence with some useful hints for just arrived students. 4 5 Firenze a.k.a. Florence Region: ..................... Tuscany Population: . . Roughly 400.000 Patron Saint: .St. John the Baptist Date of Settlement: ....... 59 BC 6 Profile Firends Inbox Home Settings Activities:Explore the birthplace of the Renaissance, Stare at Michelangelo’s David, Gaze upon Botticelli’s masterpieces, See the Medici influence present throughout the city, Be awed by the impressive Duomo, Wander around the city and imagine its Medieval past. Interests:The Renaissance, Providing amazing art and culture to the world, Being beautiful. Logout music:Odoardo Spadaro, Riccardo Marasco, Caterina Bueno. Movies:Amici Miei, Tea with Mussolini, Room with a View, Hannibal, Benvenuti in Casa Gori. Books: Dante’s Divine Comedy, Boccaccio’s Decameron, E.M. Forster’s Room With A View, Vasco Pratolini’s Metello, Carlo Lorenzini’s Pinocchio. Quotes: “A Tuscan peasant is born with an embodied sense of beauty which enables him to unconsciously develop from, and also preserve the untouched magnificence surrounding him.” Roberto Benigni FRIENDS: Dante, Leon Battista Alberti, Brunelleschi, Michelangelo, Lorenzo Ghiberti, Donatello, Leonardo, Machiavelli, Florence Nightingale, Roberto Benigni, Andrea Bocelli Museums: Uffizi Gallery, Museo del Bargello, Academy Gallery Piazzale Michelangelo, Piazza della Signoria, Piazza del Duomo, Piazza Santa Croce Churches:Il Duomo (also called Santa Maria del Fiore), Santa Maria Novella, Santa Maria del Carmine, Santa Croce, San Lorenzo, San Miniato Piazzas: 7 fashion EVENTS PItti uomo Pitti Immagine: Fashion in Florence P Pitti Uomo 85 interprets contemporary menswear and with each edition it redraws the map of the fair, focusing on the products and looks that are leading today’s markets. From the excellence of Made in Italy to the edgiest fashion research, from special projects produced by the world’s leading designers to previews of women’s collection, to support for young talents: fashions find their most complete, innovative and market-oriented showcase in Florence. And now, the Fortezza da Basso is the outstanding stage for the women’s collections, showcased in the area of the fair and protagonist at Pitti W, in the Arena Strozzi, that are shifting towards closer synergy with the Pitti Uomo sections presenting the most cutting-edge looks. All this in a setting that welcomes visitors with its unique atmosphere of business, culture, pleasure and entertainment and guides them through the myriad links that connect fashion, art, sports, design and music. There will be over 1,030 brands at Pitti Uomo, plus the 70 women’s collections at Pitti W. With a determined focus on internationality – confirmed by foreign participation – 40% of the exhibitors at this edition come from over 30 countries – and by the buyers who make up the Pitti Uomo community – over 30,000 visitors representing the world’s major large and small retailers attended the last winter edition of the fair. Here are just some of the main new events and previews that will be 8 9 presented at Pitti Uomo 85. During Pitti Uomo, the entire fair, from the pavilions to the individual stands to the Forecourt of the Fortezza da Basso will be enlivened by performances and installations, images and cult objects related to the world of music, as this year theme is ROCK ME PITTI. The Special Guest will be DIESEL BLACK GOLD designed by Andreas Melbostad. The Norwegianborn Melbostad has recently attracted the attention of the international fashion community with his impeccable urban style and rock-chic soul interpretation of the brand’s DNA. The Guest Nation will be Ukraine, a country that has recently distinguished itself as one of the most interesting – and quickly growing - places in fashion research today. It is a country that is succeeding in combining a strong and capable industrial organization with a true culture of contemporary design. Pitti W will showcase women’s collections Anna K, Anna October, Ksenia Schnaider, Omelya Atelier, Sasha Kanevski, Paskal and Yasya Minochkina. January 7th-10th PITTI UOMO 85° Fortezza da BAsso Viale Strozzi, 1 10 Pitti W More at: < www.pittimmagine.it > P The 13th edition of PITTI W will unveil a new look for the Pitti Immagine project dedicated to previews, capsule collections and special concepts in women’s fashions. Since last June, Pitti W has been at the Fortezza da Basso and now we are presenting a new breakdown of our merchandize categories in a completely revamped setting designed by Ilaria Marelli. The stars, as always, are an exclusive selection of international labels that will present preview showings of sophisticated, innovative collections for the 2014/2015 fall-winter season. Pitti W offers a unique interpretation of the wardrobe for today’s woman, blending perfectly with the fashion district presentations at Pitti Uomo. January 7th-10th pitti W 13° DOgana Via Valfonda 11 Pitti Bimbo More at: < www.pittimmagine.it > P Pitti Bimbo is increasingly international in scope: out of the 450 expected collections, 177 will be from abroad! Pitti Bimbo, the only trade fair in the world that presents a complete overview of children’s fashion is also an extraordinary platform for presenting new lifestyle trends for kids: scouting, research and selectivity are the fair’s key concepts. And, at this edition, with the aim of attracting ever more international buyers, the event will broaden its focus to include the worlds of accessories and design, reflecting the developments in an industry that is undergoing massive transformations. From the big names and their collections in the Pitti Bimbo section to the creativity of the independent brands in the New View and EcoEthic sections, from the sportswear at Sport Generation to the urban atmosphere of SuperStreet all the way to accessories, toys and furnishings for the littlest set. January 16th-18th PITTI BIMBO 78° Fortezza da BAsso Viale Strozzi, 1 12 Pitti Filati & Vintage Collection More at: < www.pittimmagine.it > P itti Immagine Filati, the key international event featuring yarns for the knitting industry will be held at the Fortezza da Basso in Florence from 22 to 24 January 2014. It is a research lab and an observatory that looks onto lifestyle trends projected towards the future. Pitti Filati presents worldscale excellence in yarns to its audience of international buyers and designers from the biggest names in fashion who come to Florence looking for new creative inspiration. This, the 74th edition, will feature previews of yarns for the 2015 springsummer season. Pitti Filati will also host Vintage Selection the fair-event dedicated to vintage clothing, accessories and design objects. RETROGAMING, this edition’s theme, will be a hymn to the passion for old videogames hunting for things like the Commodore 64 or Atari 2600 consoles. January 22nd-24th PITTI FILATI 74° Fortezza da BAsso Viale Strozzi, 1 VINTAGE COLLECTION 23° STAZIONE LEOPOLDA Porta a Prato 13 itineraries Uffizi Gallery Florence’s premiere Art Gallery T UFFIZI GALLERY Loggiato degli Uffizi 055.294883 Open 8,15-18.50 Closed on Mondays. 14 he Uffizi Gallery covers an area of about 8.000 square meters and contains one of the most important collections of art of all times, including classical sculpture and paintings on canvas and wood by 13th to 18th century Italian and foreign schools. The Gallery of the Uffizi was also the first museum ever to be opened to the public: in fact the Grand Duke granted permission to visit it on request from the year 1591. Its four centuries of history make the Uffizi Gallery the oldest museum in the world. Cosimo I de’ Medici decided to build the Palace, whose construction was started by Giorgio Vasari in 1560 and later completed by Buontalenti, who designed the famous Tribune, to house the administrative offices (or “uffizi”) of the Government because Palazzo Vecchio, which also overlooks Piazza della Signoria, had become too small to hold them all. However it was his son Francesco I who was responsible for starting to turn the palace into a museum in 1581, when he closed the second floor Gallery with huge windows and arranged part of the grand-ducal collection of classical statues, medals, jewellery, weapons, paintings and scientific instruments here. The Medici were untiring collectors and were forever adding to the Gallery: some of the most important elements to be added to the collection came from the inheritance left by Ferdinando Above: Sandro Botticelli, The Birth of Venus 15 Above from the top: Piero della Francesca, the Dukes of Urbino Titian, the Venus of Urbino Paolo Uccello, The Battle of San Romano Next Page from the top: Giotto, Madonna di Ognissanti Caravaggio, Bacchus 16 II’s mother, Vittoria della Rovere (1631), together with the many acquisitions made by Cardinal Leopoldo de’ Medici (16171675), which were to create the basis of the Gallery of Prints and Drawings and the collection of Self-portraits, exhibited today in the Vasari Corridor linking the Uffizi to the royal palace of Pitti. When Gian Gastone, the last Medici Grand Duke, died, his sister Anna Maria Ludovica managed to prevent the artistic patrimony from being scattered with the famous “Family Pact” (1737, and reconfirmed in her will of 1743), which, instead of bequeathing everything to the successors of the House of HapsburgLorraines, left the collections to the city of Florence itself “to be an ornament to the Government, useful to the public and to attract the curiosity of foreigners”. This document proved to be vitally important when the time came to retrieve the art works that had been removed and taken to Paris in Napoleonic times. Altered and rearranged several times over the centuries, according to the cultural tastes of the various periods, the exhibition rooms are now composed of over 45 rooms containing about 1.700 paintings, 300 sculptures, 46 tapestries and 14 pieces of furniture and/or ceramics. The main collection includes great works by Giotto, Masaccio, Filippo Lippi, Botticelli, da Vinci, Bellini, Giorgione, Titian, Michelangelo, Raphael, and just about every great Italian artist through the 18th century. The core of the collection is from the Medici court. The collection has remained remarkably intact with few changes over the centuries. In the early works, you can see the Byzantine influence in the use of line to suggest drapery and the heavy use of gold leaf. The artists of Siena soon begin to change this style by suggesting three-dimensional architecture even before the discovery of formal perspective. Soon the revolutionary Giotto appears on the scene depicting rounded solid figures that seem almost like Doric columns. The international Gothic style soon exerts its influence. The spatial depth is pushed back and the scenes crowded with multitudes of figures in colorful costumes. In spite of this, the overall trend in Italian art is towards the austere. The artists give the human figure a more sculptural appearance and the space is simplified and made more logical. Around 1424, the discovery of mathematical perspective causes yet another revolution in style as artists for more and more realistic representations of figures in space. The 15th century ushers in the early Renaissance. Artists have new theories and improved materials. There is a great deal of experimentation with various stylistic elements. Two of the masterpieces of the Uffizi come from this period. The Birth of Venus and the Primavera by Botticelli make us marvel at the artistic mind that could con 17 Below: Sandro Botticelli, Detail from Primavera (Allegory of Spring) 18 ceive such fantastic compositions. The paintings are unbelievably rich in detail and must be seen in person to be appreciated. There are many examples of High Renaissance works in the collection. Among them is the Annunciation by Leonardo da VincI and the Holy Family by Michelangelo. These paintings are not only a synthesis of the styles and techniques that came before; they glow with the inspiration of a golden age. There are also excellent examples of Venetian art from the period, including two important paintings by Titian, The Venus of Urbino and Flora. Soon there was a movement towards the elongated figures of the Mannerist style as in the works of Tintoretto. And towards the end of the 16th century Caravaggio had a profound impact on the art world with his realism and intense use of shadow and light. These changes ushered in the Baroque period. The Uffizi collection includes many masters of this period from Northern Europe, including Van Dyck, Rubens and Rembrandt. Finally, the collection contains a number of 18th century works that show the artistic trend towards genre scenes and courtly life. The New Uffizi In 2012 the Uffizi Gallery and its artistic itineraries have been extended to offer its visitors 17 new rooms located on the first floor and painted on either intense blue or red. This first step of the “New Uffizi” project expanded the visible collections and gave a better distribution of the museum’s spaces. The eight new Blue rooms are dedicated to foreign painters from Flanders, Holland, France and Spain from the sixteenth to the eighteenth centuries. The nine Red ones to Italian High Renaissance paintings by masters such as del Sarto, Fiorentino, Pontormo and Bronzino. In addition, the beautiful octagonal Tribune in the West wing was finally reopened after two years of restoration and rearrangement. The Tribuna was built in 1581 by Bernardo Buontalenti, as a place for Grand Duke Francesco I to display his treasures. Octagonal in shape, it has a dome crowned with a lantern and is lit by windows on the upper walls. Its chief glory is the precious mother-of-pearl decoration against a bright blue ground on the drum of the dome, and the dome itself covered with 6000 shells against a crimson background, all of which have been spectacularly restored on this occasion. The adjoining Stanzino delle Matematiche has now been opened and renovated with its emerald green walls and “grotteschi” on the ceiling. Above: The main corridor of the Uffizi 19 Exhibitions Hats, between Art & Eccent The first exhibition dedicated Hats more at: < www.polomuseale.firenze.it > T Hats, between Art & Eccentricity GALLERIA DEL COSTUME Palazzo Pitti Piazza Pitti, 1 055.294883 20 he Costume Gallery opens the door to an accessory not intended to go unnoticed. This is the first monographic exhibition dedicated to the hat, whose collections, inherit by the museum amounted to more than a thousand units, of which only a selection will be displayed at the exhibition. Despite prevailing specimens of pretty well known fashion houses such as Dior, Givenchy, Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, Prada, Ferrè and international famous milliners of the present and the past days like Philip Treacy, Stephen Jones, Caroline Reboux, Claude Saint-Cyr, Paulette, this is also the first time that there are artifacts on display of Italian and Florentine millineries. Here you will find the hat as a work of art, with its own aesthetic harmony, its sculptural essence, the chromatic component and refinement ornamental details. The exhibition includes important loans from Cecilia Matteucci Lavarini, a private collector of haute couture and an illustrious donor of the Costume Gallery, whose hats are characterized for the value, taste and style. This is also an opportunity to expose the extraordinary sketches made specifically by Maestro Alberto Lattuada and to propose to the public the specimens created by Clemente Cartoni, a famous Roman milliner fifties and sixties. Until May18th tricity 21 Rooms of the Muses More at: < www.unannoadarte.it > S ince the fifties the orchestra conductor FRANCESCO MOLINARI PRADELLI has cultivated a growing passion for art collecting paintings, driven by an original attraction to baroque painting and the genre of still life whose studies, then, were at the beginning. As the exhibition documents through a selection of one hundred paintings, the master gave priority strictly to seventeenth and eighteenth century paintings documenting the various Italian schools with a specific attention to sketches. To give the collection a very early international reputation, however, were the many still life by artists such as Jacopo da Empoli, Luca Forte, Giuseppe Recco, Cristoforo Munari, Arcangelo Resani, Carlo Magini, a sign of an out of the ordinary insight that made of Molinari Pradelli a true connoisseur of Italian baroque painting and the forerunner of the modern still life studies. From February 11th. Galleria degli Uffizi Piazzale degli Uffizi, 1 055.2388742 22 Michelangelo Re-Known More at: < www.unannoadarte.it > T he exhibition presents the work of sculptors, painters and photographers who have looked to the figure of Michelangelo and to his works as iconographic reference for their achievements: from representations in historicist key of Michelangelo and his personality, with works by Delacroix, Rodin, Baldus or Alinari, to the total visual independence achieved in the twentieth century as to create new points of view around the work of art with works by Medardo Rosso, Henri Matisse, Carlo Mollino, Emmanuel Sougez, Herbert List, Horst P., passing through thee staged photography of Horst Frank Horvat, Youssef Nabil, Kim Ki Duk to end up in the ‘absence’ of images by Thomas Struth and Candida Höfer. From February 18th. Galleria dell’Accademia Via Ricasoli, 6 055.2388742 23 Robert Capa Italy 1943-1944 More at: < www.mnaf.it > T he exhibition dedicated to the great war photographer Robert Capa arrives at MNAF in Florence, recounting with 78 images in black and white the years of the Second World War in Italy. Considered by some to be the father of photojournalism, by others to be the one who has given a new look and a new direction to the discipline, Robert Capa (Budapest, 1913 - Thái Binh, Vietnam, 1954), although not a soldier, lived most of his life on the battlefield. In over twenty years of activity he has followed the five major world wars: the Spanish Civil War, the Sino-Japanese War, the Second World War, the Arab-Israeli war of 1948 and the first Indochina War. From January 10th. mnaf Piazza Santa Maria Novella 14r 055.216310 24 Once in a lifetime Treasures from Florentine Archives More at: < www.unannoadarte.it > T hree archival documents by Michelangelo, a drawing by Raphael, the baptismal certificate of Leonardo da Vinci and other documents that bears his marginal notes, a written lesson of Galileo on Dante’s Hell; works by Andrea Mantegna, Alessandro Allori and Giovanni Stradano, autographs of Girolamo Savonarola, Poliziano, Cosimo I de ‘Medici, Joachim Winckelmann, Ugo Foscolo, Giuseppe Pelli Bencivenni, John Fabbroni, Eduardo de Filippo, Dino Campana and Eugenio Montale, here also with two watercolors. The objective of the exhibition is to give everyone the “unique” opportunity to admire some of the best kept paper treasures of the city. From January 28th. Galleria Palatina Palazzo Pitti Piazza Pitti, 1 055.2469600 25 A new homeland of the spirit More at: < www.polomuseale.firenze.it > T Dietrofront More at: < www.polomuseale.firenze.it > W orks of Art shown on both sides, discovering a whole new history of assemblies, identifications of authors, artists’ thoughts and notes. Paintings (David, Dürer, Brueghel, Palma il Vecchio), sculptures, pottery, even a trunk to be transformed into an altar for the Court trips, a ‘royal’ cabinet embellished with Meissen porcelain, lyrics and dedications, old lists and sealing wax, from the Roman times to contemporary art. Until February 2nd. Royal post Galleria degli Uffizi Piazzale degli Uffizi 055.2388742 26 his exhibition investigates the special attraction of the city of Florence for many artists from Venice and the Friuli Venezia Giulia region in the early decades of the twentieth century, when the Tuscan capital in many respects represented the most complete, and not only literary and figurative, synthesis of Italian culture. Until February 9th. Department of Prints and Drawings of Uffizi Piazzale degli Uffizi - 055.2388742 27 Machiavelli Way of the Prince More at: < www.polomuseale.firenze.it > T cortona: Dawn of the Etruscan Princes More at: < www.beniculturali.it > T he exhibition comes from the excavations in the Archaeological Park of Cortona. They are exposed the finds from funeral Circle II of Sodo, consisting of over 15 intact tombs dating from the late seventh century and the beginning of the sixth century BC and a series of objects never previously seen and found in archaeological sites in the area examined under the point of view of restoration. Until July 31st. Museo Archeologico Piazza SS. Annunziata, 9/b 055.2357720 28 o celebrate the fifth centenary of The Prince by Niccolo Machiavelli will be exhibited manuscripts, books, documents and iconographic works. Five hundred years later, Florence, the birthplace of Niccolo Machiavelli and especially the city where he worked as second secretary of the chancellery of the Florentine Republic, aims to celebrate the event. Until February 18th. Biblioteca Nazionale Centrale di Firenze Piazza Cavalleggeri, 1 - 055.24919201 29 events Malebolge Slam Fighting Championship 6 In an atmosphere inspired by Dante’s Inferno, the best semi-professional athletes in the Italian scene will compete in a thrilling knockout tournament to earn a contract for the Main Card Slam FC 7 Teatro Obihall, Lungarno Aldo Moro, 3 10/01/2014 World Skate Awards 25th and 26th of January Nelson Mandela Forum will once again host a major rink event. The major athletes of figure skating will perform in exciting both technical and spectacular races. Mandela Forum - Viale Paoli, 1 25-26/01/2014 Fiorita di San Zanobi An historical procession reaches the column of Saint Zenobius, at the side of the Baptistery, laying a floral decoration on the place where the miracle of the elm happened. Piazza San Giovanni 26/01/2014 30 Toscana Winter Park more at: < www.obihall.it > A great park for winter sports. Skiing, skating, sliding on the snow. On the banks of the Arno, for the second consecutive year Florence has adopted a new and larger facility in ice and snow. The plant is located behind the Obihall Theatre in Florence and unite all fans of these activities accompanying the winter days between Christmas and Carnival. This year two new products: the ice rink 18x36 meters to please everyone, kids to adults and even athletes who will be able to perform the harder speciality of the 36-meter jump. Until March 2nd. Teatro Obihall Lungarno Aldo Moro, 3 055.6504112 Artisan Chocolate Fair The 10th exhibition of handmade chocolate will animate the city this year with chocolate workshops for adults and children, book presentations, an appointment for the care of the body and a space dedicated to solidarity. Piazza Santa Maria Novella 7-16/02/2014 We Love Bio Inside We Love Bio Fair you will find companies and associations operating in various sectors of the market characterized by a stronger interest in organic products and eco-sustainability. There will be also organic and vegan restaurants, spas, gyms, alternative energy sources, organic clothing, and much more. Teatro Obihall, Lungarno Aldo Moro, 3 15-16/01/2014 Artistic Gymnastics After the great success of the past years the Artistic Gymnastics returns to the Mandela Forum. The event will be attended by the best italian and international athletes who will perform from 10:00 am throughout the day. Mandela Forum - Viale Paoli, 1 08/02/2014 classical Music Daniel Kawka & Gloria Campaner Daniel Kawka will direct pianist Gloria Campaner with Orchestra della Toscana performing Schubert-Webern: Deutsche Tänze vom Oktober (1824); Schumann: Concert for piano and orchestra op.54; Schubert Sinfonia n.5 D.485 January 7: 21.00 - Teatro Verdi - Via Ghibellina, 99 The Nutcracker Ballet in 2 acts, music by Petr Ilic Cajkowskij. The ballet, is the last work of Marius Petipa, the choreographer of the Russian Imperial Theatres in the XIX cent., that adapted for children ETA Hoffmann ‘The Nutcracker and the Mouse King’, and transformed into a ballet with dreamlike atmospheres typical of the story. The version of the Moscow Ballet “La Classique” remains faithful to the original ballet, the emblem of the Russian ballet tradition. The choreography of Valery Kovtun retraces the steps of Petipa and Ivanov with the aim of restoring the splendor of the traditional dress of “The Nutcracker”. 32 The costumes and the sets of Elik Melikov Evgeny Gurenko, completely renovated, are rich in details, giving it a refined and elegant staging. January 8: 20.45 - Teatro Verdi - Via Ghibellina, 9 Nabucco An Opera by Giuseppe Verdi; Conductor Renato Palumbo; Director Leo Muscato with Orchestra e Coro del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino. A new production and staging by Teatro Lirico di Cagliari. Nemorino, a poor peasant, is in love with Adina, a beautiful landowner, who torments him with her indifference. When Nemorino hears Adina reading to her workers the story of Tristan and Isolde he is convinced that a magic potion will help him to gain Adina’s love. January 21, 24, 28, 30, 31: 20.30 Teatro Comunale - Corso Italia, 1 Daniele Rustioni & Narek Hakhnazaryan Daniele Rustioni will direct celloist Narek Hakhnazaryan with Orchestra della Toscana performing Dallapiccola: Piccola musica notturna; Schumann Concert for cello and orchestra op.129; Martucci: Notturno n.1 op.70; Mendelsshon: Sinfonia n.1 op.11 January 22: 21.00 - Teatro Verdi - Via Ghibellina, 99 Holocaust Memory Day Concert for the International Day of Commemoration in Memory of the Victims of the Holocaust. Program to define. January 27: 20.30 - Piccolo Teatro Corso Italia, 12 Patricia Kopatchinskaja Violinist Patricia Kopatchinskaja will perform and direct Orchestra della Toscana performing Beethoven: Romanza n.1 for violin and orchestra op.40; Mozart: Concert for violin and orchestra K.218; Mansurjan: Romance for violino and orchestra; Beethoven: Sinfonia n.3 ‘Eroica’ January 30: 21.00 - Teatro Verdi - Via Ghibellina, 99 Madama Butterfly An Opera by Giacomo Puccini; Conductor Juraj Valçuha; Director Fabio Ceresa with Orchestra e Coro del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino. A new production and staging by Teatro Comunale di Bologna. In 1904, a U.S. Naval officer named Pinkerton rents a house on a hill in Nagasaki, Japan, for him and his soon-to-be wife, “Butterfly”. Her 33 real name is Ciocio-san, She is a 15-yearold Japanese girl she had been so excited to marry an American that she had earlier secretly converted to Christianity. After the wedding ceremony, her uninvited uncle, a bonze, who has found out about her conversion, comes to the house, curses her and orders all the guests to leave. Februrary 6, 8, 11, 12, 13: 20.30 Piccolo Teatro - Corso Italia, 12 Momix Alchemy The last extraordinary work of Moses Pendleton, Momix bringing her to dance on stage making a new prodigy. This time, the theme, is the eternal pursuit of the secret gold that lives in the depths of our being, revealed only to men capable of scanning the world with creative eyes. February 11-15: 20.45; February 16: 16.45 - Teatro Verdi - Via Ghibellina, 99 34 Kazushi Ono & Vitalij Kowalijow Basso Vitalij Kowaljow with Orchestra e Coro del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino directed by Kazushi Ono will perform Felix Mendelssohn: Ruy Blas, Ouverture op. 95; Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart: Sinfonia in D major K.33; Dmitrij Šostakoviç: Sinfonia n.3 in B flat minor op. 113 “Babij Jar” for basso, male choir and orchestra. February 16, 18: 20.30 - Teatro Comunale, Corso Italia, 1 Roberto Abbado & Renaud Capuçon Roberto Abbado will direct violin Renaud Capuçon with Orchestra e Coro del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino performing Dmitrij Šostakoviç: Concerto n. 1 in A minor op.77 for violin and orchestra; Maurice Ravel: Daphnis et Chloé February 28, March 1: 20.30 - Teatro Comunale - Corso Italia, 1 shopping Shop ‘till You Drop Freshly milled Sale Season in Italy winter sale season January 4th - March 4th 36 O kay, you have arrived. You are now officially a student abroad and you’re starting to settle in and get a feel for the place. Finding your way to school is no longer such a challenge and you’ve stopped getting your fork out every time someone says ciao. So it must be time to shop for souvenirs and presents for family and friends. Yeah, we know you just got here and aren’t planning to go back for a while anyway, but consider this: Saldi. Sales. It is a now or never situation in Italy. Unlike in the States and elsewhere in the world - where stores almost always have a promotion or two going on - Italy has a set sale season when almost everything goes on sale; but when the sale is over, it’s over baby! No more bargains for six more months, till the end of the next season. There are two sales a year, one in January and the other in July. So you are here just in time to take advantage of the winter offerings. This year the winter sales will officially start on January 5th and the season closes on March 5th although many stores finish their sales earlier because they literally run out of merchandise. Whether you want to buy some new threads to try and look like a native or if you want to even out the euro/dollar exchange rate a little, the sales are a great opportunity to save some money. Almost all types of stores have some items on sale and many clothing stores have absolutely everything on sale. Most stores offer 37 between twenty and fifty percent off regular prices on a lot of their merchandise. So whether you are looking for designer fashion or simply need a new t-shirt for the gym, now is the time to get it on sale. Shopping here is a cultural experience in and of itself. Yes, money still exchanges hands but that is pretty much where the resemblance wears off. If you have had enough culture shock for the moment and want “simple” shopping, then go to a big department store and you will feel pretty much at home. They are open all day long and close around eight. Otherwise, there are a few good rules of thumb to remember if you are going shopping elsewhere. For instance, most smaller stores close for lunch; generally they are open from 9 or 10am to 1pm and then again from 4pm to 7 or 7:30pm. And, no, shopkeepers are not happy to stay if they see you rushing in at 12:59. In most cases they are hungry and want to go home to their pasta. So if they see you eying out their window at 12:56 and you look like an indecisive type they may very well close just a few minutes early because they figure that if you are serious about buying something you’ll come back later, and if not they still had their nice lunch for good measure.The most important thing to remember when you go shopping in Italy is buyer beware. If it’s clothes and shoes you’re looking at, be careful to try them on because sizing can be tricky and 38 often varies from store to store. Also, most stores won’t take sale items back under any circumstances, so make sure that it’s exactly what you want before you fork over the cash. Read the tags carefully because they are loaded with relevant information and you can make sure that you are really buying something on sale. If the item is more than 30 percent off the original marked price, you may want to double check that it’s something the store normally sells and not some merchandise they have brought in just for the sale, or else something left over from years past. And while your grandmother may not realize that your brand new Gucci jacket is from 1992, almost everyone else will. Some stores even raise their prices right before the sale so the reduction looks larger than it actually is, so beware if the original price is not clearly visible.The last thing to remember is that most Italian stores are smaller than their American counterparts and as a result they don’t keep as much merchandise on hand. If you have a common size or want the hottest pair of shoes on the market it is probably a good idea to shop early. If you have an unusual size or you like taking risks you may want to wait a little longer because some stores lower their prices even further as the sale goes on. But if you can’t live without that pair of lime green shoes you might want to snatch them up as soon as you see them. Happy Hunting! 39 Shopping at I Gigli more at: < www.igigli.it > I Gigli, with its 13 million visitors a year, is definitely Tuscany’s most popular shopping destination. I Gigli Shopping Centre is truly a shopper’s paradise, featuring numerous department stores, a host of familiar favourites and hundreds of unique stores exclusive to I Gigli such as: Trussardi, Timberland, Zara, Coin, Foot Locker, Conte of Florence, and many others. No place is better than I Gigli if you enjoy shopping. With over 130 stores, a hypermarket, restaurants, you’re sure to find everything you’re looking for and more. I Gigli offers over 18 restaurants, coffee bars, pubs and bars where you can relax. I Gigli is located in Campi Bisenzio near Florence, easily accessible from the A11 freeway (exit at Prato est), or by bus (Lazzi company) which departs directly from Florence Santa Maria Novella railway station for I Gigli. Exciting entertainment shows with special events available on www.igigli.it and 16 cinemas at multiplex UCI CINEMA. I Gigli Shopping Center Via San Quirico, 165 - Campi Bisenzio (FI) 055.8974546 40 wellness Let’s go Skiing Skiing in Tuscany for fun and exercise W hen we think about the winter, we can’t help conjuring up images of the bad season, when we get cold and wet and windy weather and we are not pleased even to just step out of our warm beds in the morning. But there are places where the winter time is like a second spring, where it triggers a second and different rush of life, and these places are mountains. Here the “bad season” is awaited like an old friend that year after year brings a beautiful, glowing gift: snow. Living in Florence, the handiest skiing destinations are the Appennine mountains in the province of Pistoia. The winter resorts of the area include villages like Pian degli Ontani, Pian di Novello, Doganaccia and Cutigliano, but the most important is certainly Abetone, well-loved and visited by tourists from all over the world. The location is renowned not only for the beauty and variety of its ski-slopes but also for its world-class champions like Zeno Colò, Celina Seghi and Vittorio Chierroni. Abetone is situated on the mountain pass of the same name marking the border between Tuscany and Emilia, on the main Abetone-Brennero road that climbs to an altitude of 1,388 metres on sea level surrounded by a large forest of fir trees. 42 43 Abetone is just 85 km from Florence and it is the Florentines’ favourite destination for skiing weekends or even for day trips. Skiers first arrived in the village at the beginning of the 20th century, but nowadays the skiing area extends over four wonderful valleys - Val di Luce, Valle della Scoltella, Sestaione and Lima valleys - with a total 80 kilometres the ski-slopes that reach altitudes of up to 1900 m. The skiing season opens on December 8th, but the best period is between January and March, when the slopes can become very crowded especially during the weekends. Abetone is also popular for weekly packages called settimana bianca (white week), when people take a week off on the slopes. The wide runs are ideal for all skiers, from beginners to experts. The most popular runs are on Mount Gomito, which is reached by the Ovovia lift: they are named Zeno One, Two and Three as a tribute to the local Olympic gold winner Zeno Colò. Another popular feature is the new Abetone terrain park, a state-of-the-art facility boasting half-pipe and 10-foot jumps for the pleasure and thrill of daring snowboarders. If you want to enjoy the fun and exercise of a few days out on the ski slopes, don’t be put off by the fact that you didn’t carry your skiing equipment to Florence with you: Abetone abounds 44 in ski rental stores that will provide all kinds of stuff: skis and poles, boots and boards to match your size and height. At lunch time, you have several options, including eating in the village down at the pass or high up on the slopes at the self-service near the Ovovia or the Rifugi at La Selletta and Val di Luce. Like Italians always do, you also have a great opportunity to take an after-lunch nap on the outdoor chairs, which is an excellent excuse for a suntanning session, great for a little peaceful rest but also a favourite if you want to save your energies for some nightlife, at the local pub or disco on the main square. Overnight accommodation offers a wide selection of lodging including four-star hotels with swimming pool, cheaper hotels, a youth hostel, rooms to let, tourist villages, mountain huts and villas. There are also several Tuscan-style restaurants on all price ranges, pizzerias and snack-bars. Typical food from this area includes mushrooms, cheese, cured meats and frutti di bosco (wild berries). Characteristic is the local pecorino cheese and the excellent local honey. Wellness contrasto aveda (1) (1) A stone’s throw from Piazza della Signoria, you will find Contrasto AVEDA lifestyle salon & spa, an innovative proposal where the “salon” becomes an oasis for a relaxing break in full harmony of body and spirit. A cup of Aveda tea to welcome you, a soothing massage to head, neck and shoulders and eventually a touch of make-up far a unique experience. A team of highly skilled stylists at work to conceive a definitive look able to fully reflect you. But there is more to Contrasto AVEDA Lifestyle Salon & Spa than meets the eye. Monthly after working hours, the wonderful Salon becomes an ideal location for an aperitif or a themed event. Nearby, two other Contrasto AVEDA concept salon, receive without an appointment, leaving freedom of choice to the customer. Lifestyle salon & spa on appointment only Via de’ Neri 53-55/r - 055.2398553 (2) 46 concept salon Via de’ Neri 49/r - 055 282841 Via dei Benci 5/r - 055 219227 www.salonecontrasto.it A palestra ricciardi (2) Founded 50 years ago, Palestra Ricciardi is the biggest gym in the Florence downtown, known as the coolest gym in town combining experienced staff with the most modern equipment. You can improve your physique in a pleasant and dynamic environment spread over a surface of 1600 sqm surrounding a lovely internal garden. The space devoted to your training is composed of several areas which include: the cardio fitness area, the free weights area, rooms for isotonic equipment, two rooms for classes and the spinning room. After a hard training session you can choose to relax in a sauna or with a massage session. The gym offers 81 hours of classes weekly: Total Body Workout, Step, Spinning, Easy Dance, Corpo Libero, Yoga, Hip Hop, Power Pump, Body Sculpt, Pilates, Fit Box, Stretching, Gag, Soft Gymnastic, Capoeira. Personalised fitness programmes and fully qualified instructors. Special membership fees for students. Borgo Pinti, 75 - 055.2478444 www.palestraricciardi.it re you a step machine addict or dreaming of perfect muscles? Or have you just arrived in town and need to find a gym (possibly within walking distance) in the city centre? There are an infinite number of gymnasiums. It is worth hunting up one with the facilities you require nearest to your digs. Many also do courses in yoga or the martial arts pilates to FIt box or Capoeria (a brazilian way between a martial art and a dancing) or have a gymnasium attached. And obviously most of these gyms offer special relaxing areas with sauna, massages or spa. Florence also boasts many dance and ballet schools, though of course you have to select the type of dance course you prefer. Start looking for your ideal gym from our tips. 47 folklore let the fun begin There’s more to Carnival than meets the eye... O riginating from ancient pagan rites, the Carnival tradition has acquired a whole different meaning in Christian times, when it was associated with a spell of marriment preceeding the restrictions and fasting of Lent. Carnival varies in length and dates each year, however, as a rule off thumb the celebrations usually start four Sundays before the Martedì Grasso, and the last couple of weeks are the “hottest”. Martedì Grasso this year is on February 21st. On Berlingaccio (the last carnival Thursday), the last Carnival Sunday and Martedì Grasso many discos, bars and restaurants will hold carnival parties, but if the weather isn’t too bad there will also be much partying going on in the streets. Of course you can dress up as almost anything you fancy or invent your own costume, or even just put on some fancy makeup. But you may also like to know that all the main towns in Italy have their local traditional masks. Here are just a few of the names you may want to get acquainted with: Pulcinella is from Naples, Arlecchino and Colombina are a couple of lovers from Venice, Dottor Balanzone is from Bologna, Rugantino is from Rome, Gianduia is from Turin. In Tuscany, Florence has Stenterello. In Florence children dress up and parade with their parents in the squares, at the Cascine park and along the Lungarno Vespucci, scattering colorful confetti and wielding cans of squirty shaving foam. 48 49 gourmet Arnold Coffee The American Coffee Experience T arnold coffee Via degli Avelli, 8 055.9060399 www.arnoldcoffee.it 50 he coffeehouse chain Arnold Coffee was born in 2009, and it is the first real American coffee shop opened in Italy, inspired by Starbucks. The brand mission, The American Coffee Experience means the commitment to offering to everyone the opportunity to taste top quality products in a welcoming and comfortable environment where everyone can relax, chat and surf the Internet, away from the bustle of daily life. Everything is improved by a constant and careful attention to detail and to the guests. Here you will find a wide range of pastries and snacks suitable for every moment of your day, from breakfast, to lunch, or any light meal. You will not resist the temptation of Arnold Coffee’s cup cakes, muffins, donuts and apple pies, a unique taste from the best American tradition; and do not forget the organic beverages or the 100% pure fruit smoothies, or the great choice of tasty, delicious and special drinks with or without coffee, all in large cups starting from 12oz. Arnold opened its first store in Milan in the University area, with the specific aim of offering to young students the possibility to study with their laptops in front of a hot mug. The company has now reached cities such as Genoa, Verona and Florence, Via degli Avelli, while expanding its target from University students to a wider group that daily rewards the coffee shops with the same - if not greater - appreciation and presence. And the firm is still developing... Flavours of Tuscany osteria santo spiritO (1) (2) 52 (1) In the heart of the Oltrarno District where you still can breath the ancient Florence of the craftsmen and the thousands workshop, the Florence of the common people and the markets, you can find Osteria Santo Spirito right at the corner of the most famous square of Santo Spirito, a meeting place for all international gourmands, for florentines in love with their city and foreigners discovering the taste of Tuscany possibly in a cosy atmospehere. Take a lunch or dine at the tables overlooking the enchanting Piazza Santo Spirito (the Osteria has a wonderful dehors one of the most fascinating in the city) or in the colourful rooms inside the Osteria. The menu includes typical and traditional Tuscan platters accompanied by some interesting new variations, you can start with land starters such as wildboar sausages and dry tomatoes and go on with rigatoni santo spirito with dry ricotta cheese and maybe close with a mixed meat grill or you can choose the fish menus with sea products always fresh and tasty. The wines and desserts are excellent. Piazza Santo Spirito 16r - 055.2382383 www.osteriasantospirito.it Open daily 12-23.30 T Le Antiche Carrozze (2) Try tasting some of the traditional recipes from the Italian cuisine in this ancient trattoria just off Via Tornabuoni and overlooking Piazza Santa Trinita. The warm and welcoming atmosphere in the recently restructured dining rooms still recall the mid 19th century when this venue was a regular stopping place for carriage drivers. It is the ideal place to discover the real “Florentine Steak” of genuine Chianina meat and perfectly prepared and cooked, as well as taste many other natural and healthy products, like the olive oil, dressed meats, vegetables and cheeses. The menu is based on the simple recipes typical of the local cuisine, but the Chef makes use of his wide experience to fully enhance the freshness and quality of the ingredients. All these traditional flavours in Tuscan cooking are accompanied by excellent pizzas prepared with care and experience. The pizzas boast a truly authentic flavour as they are cooked in a woodburning oven. The best wine to drink with your meal, either selecting it from the important Tuscan labels or from the excellent selection of the best Italian wines. Piazza Santa Trinita corner with Borgo Santi Apostoli 055.2658156 - www.leantichecarrozze.it Open daily 11.00-23.00. he legendary and extremely simple food of Tuscany is the result of centuries of poverty and therefore has been based on salads, legumes, cereals and meat since the Middle Ages. Olive oil is almost always used rather than lard, and vegetable soups rather than pasta. All the food is bread related and of course the main drink is wine that lends colour to every glass. Although the modern trends in food have practically swept away many regional culinary traditions, Tuscany can still boast of an incredible historic continuity in traditional cooking and therefore has managed to preserve dishes that the present research into genuine foods is once more bringing back into the limelight, to the joy of all tastebuds, including those of its foreign visitors. We should remember that most typical Tuscan dishes are linked to particular areas or the various seasons of the year. 53 gelaterie gelateria della passera Gelateria della Passera is located in the heart of Florence just a few steps from Ponte Vecchio and Piazza Pitti. A small shop that produces high quality ice creams and sorbets with or without milk. The ingredients are chosen with care and with a special attention to local products, such as milk, eggs, fruit and Tuscan honey. You can choose between 20 flavors, in addition to the classic ones we suggest Fior di latte and mint, Monnalisa, Messer Brunelleschi and many others. Secret recipes and experimentations to create the magical sorbets, made with infusions and decoctions of seasonal fruits, in this period of the year you can taste pomegranate, persimmon, chestnut, pear and tangerine or the classic winter specials with orange, mint or whiskey flavored chocolate. The carapine boxes (with the cap) ensure optimal preservation of the product, infact ice cream is temperature sensitive and photosensitive too. Tantalize your palate tasting the flavors of the season, fruit sorbets and infusions, an experience that you will bring in your heart as a lasting memory of Florence. Piazza della Passera - Via Toscanella,15r - 055.291882 Open 12pm-12am 54 55 gelaterie LA STREGA NOCCIOLA Have you ever felt like Alice in Wonderland? That’s the Strega Nocciola effect! Close to Ponte vecchio, Strega Nocciola Artisan Gelateria it’s a kind of magic: let the taste of Cremarancio-a traditional cream variegated with orange jam-charm you, or let yourself be enchanted by the luxurious scent of the Bergamot gelato. Not mentioning the organic Lavender gelato, a fresh, relaxing experience for all your five senses, or the classic and elegant taste of the Pistachio gelato: it’s the taste of a new, recovered time from the everyday hurry, the fresh taste of a renewed gelato tradition which Strega Nocciola brings every day in to the City’s beating heart. Strega Nocciola turns a premium selection of the finest seasonal ingredients into a unique, handmade ice cream. It’s all about the proper time that delicious ingredients need and the attention to excellence that make a bewitching experience out of a genuine ice cream. That’s the point: it always takes some magic to create good things, especially when it’s about gelato: Strega Nocciola’s gelato is a mix of artisan wisdom and passion for excellence, which will bring you back to the authentic,genuine taste of life’s pleasures. Ponte Vecchio - Via De’ Bardi 51r - Tel. 055.2382150 Open Every Day 11.30am - 11.30pm 56 57 Pizza Pizza Pizza! Mr. Pizza (1) MR. PIZZA in Florence is a universe of delicious appetizers and offers its customers a wide choice of pizza cut, takeaway or home delivery. It ‘s open from morning until late at night to enjoy at any time of day the taste of true Neapolitan tradition. In the true Neapolitan pizza the cheese is soft and pan is thin but high-sided. The peculiarities of Neapolitan pizza is due largely to its pulp to be produced with a bread dough - that is completely devoid of fat - soft and elastic, stretched by hand in the form of a disc without touching the edges that will form in a typical kitchen “ledge “of 1 or 2 cm while the dough at the center will be high about 3 mm. A fast passage in a very hot oven must leave the pizza moist and soft, not overcooked. But at MR PIZZA, not only you can eat pizza awaits but also a large variety of salads, turnovers, croquettes, pretzels, washed down with a good selection of craft beers and more. EVERYTHING TO GO & DELIVERY Via Pietrapiana 82r - 055.3860311 Piazza del Duomo 5r - 055.213682 www.pizzerianapoletanamrpizza-firenze.com (1) 58 Nightlife pitta m’ingolli (1) (1) The colorful and lively scene of Piazza Santo Spirito has just enriched with a new venue: a rustic style, charming bistrot, reminiscent of some French Bar au Vin. Freshly inaugurated, PITTA M’INGOLLI, which is Lucchese dialect for “may devil swallow you”, is just a few steps from the famous Osteria Santo Spirito, also owned by Chiara Tassi. Open from morning to late night, starts with the breakfast, but stands out for a wide variety of sandwiches with cold cuts (ham, mortadella, finocchiona) cheese (goat cheese and sun-dried tomatoes, gorgonzola, honey and nuts) to fish specialities (butter and anchovies, salmon and arugula) combined with various sauces (tuna, tartare, mushroom sauce, walnuts, truffle) focaccia, baguette, various drinks, milkshakes, centrifugal fresh fruit, coffee for only 80 cents. and appetizers for 5 euro. Interior is coated in warm wood, with high stools and newspapers. Piazza S. Spirito, 17r 055.264256 Open daily 6.30am - 2.00am (2) 60 A salamanca (2) With an entrance sunken in slightly from the street-front windows and doors, Salamanca draws you in almost seductively with its muted and rustic reds, cursive lettering above the door and calm dim lighting. Upon entering, a beautiful and engaging staff allows you to be guided wherever you choose to enjoy this intriguing bar and restaurant. You may enjoy a meal in one of the three dining rooms, including a more intimately themed one in the back. Or for a more casual evening, quaint two seater tables off to the right, a variety of tables in the front room to the left, a tapas bar in the back, or a traditional bar in the very front. With a full menu from tapas to meat meals, wonderful fish dishes to salads, amazingly decadent desserts and delicious drinks, the food alone entices any restaurant goer. With its atmosphere, its upbeat American and Spanish mix of music, wonderful staff, entrancing ambience, leaving Salamanca seems like not an option. Via Ghibellina, 80r 055.2345452 - www.salamanca.it Open Daily 5.30pm - 2.30am peritif comes from the Latin word “aperire”, to open. You should remember that traditionally, Italians do not drink in order to get drunk: rather, alcohol fulfils a complementary role in the dining process. An aperitif is meant to cleanse your palate and whet your appetite for the upcoming meal. The typically French and Italian rite of aperitif offers a taste of la bonne vie for those who enjoy nothing more than raising a glass in the company of friends. Many bars in Florence now offer a sophisticated choice of finger foods and snacks to accompany your aperitif. Arrive between 7pm and 9pm, buy yourself a drink and you can expect to stock up for free on a good spread of complimentary nibbles. Even the music mix is also specially chosen with smooth, soothing sounds providing a suitable backdrop for a relaxed chat among friends. 61 ni gar no C or sin i di S. Chiesa Trinita L a No ce v. dell a Stufa borgo Loren zo borgo S. v. d. Medici r S. v. P o lli ve r e v. Co o r tin Ma on e i S. digli aie ald eC ell v. d v. Ram g gio v. T o laio Teg o sca ne lla v. Ma od v. P r est agli S er r v. de ’ ll’Ar v. de agli S er r v. de ’ m aglianti on e l Le v. d e a aol v. 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Miniato Museo Casa Siviero p.zza Poggi lungarno Ce ponte llini v. de ll olò a Forn v.le Pog gi ac e v. d e p Fe i Ba st63 ioni