Annual Report 2012
Contents
Annual Report for the year ended 2012
CTPA Annual Report 2012
01 Page 4
CTPA Board of Directors
02Page 6
Chairman’s Report
03Page 7
Executive Summary
04Page 8
Review of the Year
05 Page 14
A Career in Cosmetic Science
06Page 16
CTPA Events
07 Page 18
Digital (R)evolution - Extending the CTPA
Communication Journey
08Page 22
Inside and Out: New Research Affirms
Positive Role of Our Industry on Self-Esteem
09Page 24
Look Good Feel Better: Our Story
10 Page 26
Cosmetics Industry in Figures
11 Page 32
CTPA Members
12 Page 34
CTPA Committees
13 Page 36
CTPA and Members’
Representatives to Cosmetics Europe
14 Page 38
Directors’ Report and Financial Statements
15 Page 46
Who’s Who at CTPA
16 Page 47
CTPA Membership - Experts on Call
3
01
CTPA Board of Directors
At the end of the year under review, the CTPA Board of Directors comprised:
Lady Jay (Sylvia) CBE
Chairman, CTPA
Chairman, L’Oréal (UK) Ltd
Chris Good
Managing Director,
Estée Lauder Cosmetics Ltd
Dr Gerald (Ged) O’Shea
Vice-chairman, CTPA
Director of Beauty Development, Alliance Boots
Martin Hamilton
Legal Director/Company Secretary,
Chanel Ltd
Anand Rangaswamy
Vice-chairman, CTPA
Managing Director, Keyline Brands Ltd
Blake Hughes
General Manager, UK & Ireland,
Elizabeth Arden New York
Jacqueline Burchell
Global Product Development Director,
PZ Cussons Beauty Ltd
Ian Mackinnon
Chief Executive Officer,
Swallowfield plc
Massimiliano (Max) Costantini
Chief Executive Officer,
Mibelle Ltd
Anke Menkhorst
President,
Kao (UK) Ltd
Susan Egstrand
Category, Insight & Marketing Director Oral Care,
GlaxoSmithKline Consumer Healthcare
Massimo Poli
Vice-President & General Manager (UK/Ireland),
Colgate-Palmolive (UK) Ltd
Hannah French
Skincare Marketing Director,
Johnson & Johnson Ltd
Brian Riddick
General Manager,
Coty UK Ltd
Lisa Garley-Evans
Vice President & Counsel EMEA, Regional Legal
& Regulatory Affairs, Avon Cosmetics Ltd
Mark Wood
Senior Vice-President & Managing Director, EMEA,
Revlon International Corporation
Aimee Goldsmith
Associate Director Communications,
UK, Ireland & Nordics, Procter & Gamble UK
Executive Staff
Dr Christopher (Chris) Flower
Director-General
Deborah (Debbie) A Hunter
Director of Commercial Affairs
Paul Crawford
Head of Regulatory & Environmental Services
Dr Emma Meredith
Head of Scientific & Technical Services
4
Honorary Treasurer
John Harold
Company Secretary
Joyce Traylen
CTPA Annual Report 2012
Appointments to the Board since 1 January 2013
Mark Bleathman
VP Brand Building Personal Care UKI, Unilever UK & Ireland Ltd
Resignations from the Board during 2012
Kathryn Davies
Associate Director, Procter & Gamble UK
Ann Murray
Managing Director (UK), PZ Cussons (UK) – Beauty Division
Per A Neuman
Managing Director, Estée Lauder Companies
Iain Potter
Vice President Marketing HPC UK & Ireland, Unilever UK & Ireland Ltd
Scott Sherwood
Vice President & General Manager (UK/Ireland), Colgate-Palmolive (UK) Ltd
Brian Walmsley
Marketing Director – Skincare, Johnson & Johnson Ltd
Barratt West
General Manager UK & Ireland, Elizabeth Arden (UK)
Solicitors
Norton Rose LLP
Auditors
Crowe Clark Whitehill LLP
Bankers
Barclays Bank Plc
5
02
Chairman’s Report
Lady Jay (Sylvia) CBE on 2012
I am happy to report on another busy and successful year for
the CTPA in 2012. Our external communications programme
continues to evolve and remain relevant and I am pleased to
see an increased focus on digital media.
As we strive not just to maintain but also to develop our
position as the authoritative, responsible and trusted voice
of the cosmetics industry, we must be aware of opinion and
debate in all media channels. At the same time we have
updated our consumer polling to see what concerns our
consumers and how they view our industry. Even in times
of recession, our products continue to play an important part
in maintaining high self-esteem and a positive outlook on life.
The main CTPA website had a makeover last year to give a
cleaner, modern look. Our consumer and media-facing
website, www.thefactsabout.co.uk, continued to add new
content relevant to the issues of the day related to our
products. CTPA staff continued to engage with the media,
particularly about the safety of our products, and took part
in external events which contributed to maintaining our
vision of a responsible and ethical cosmetics industry.
Advertising will always play an important part in the very
competitive cosmetic, toiletry and perfumery marketplace.
Competition, good quality science and robust regulation
has produced a dynamic market in Europe with high quality,
new and innovative products available at all price points.
Advertising is used to promote one product over another;
but advertising in general still has its critics and a vigorous
debate about its effects continues. CTPA is fully involved in
those issues which affect our products and we have been
directly involved with the Minister’s Expert Group on Body
Image (originally set up by Lynne Featherstone MP but taken
over by Jo Swinson MP, current Minister for Equalities). It is a
sign of our own increasing confidence that our views will be
taken seriously that, early in the year, we published a paper
titled, ‘CTPA, Body Image and Self-Esteem’ to inform the
debate. This included, amongst others, contributions from
Lynne Featherstone MP, the Chief Executive of the Advertising
Standards Authority, Guy Parker, and Jo Swinson MP,
then Chair of the All Party Parliamentary Group on Body Image.
Underpinning the safety of our products is the
EU Cosmetics Directive, soon to be superseded by the
new EU Cosmetics Regulation. In addition to seminars
for its members on the updated requirements, CTPA has
been actively involved in the working groups on the new
6
Regulation run by Cosmetics Europe, the European personal
care association. Working closely with our European colleagues
enables CTPA to provide sound advice to its own members
on a range of issues that are important to us. In its 50th year,
Cosmetics Europe has built up a good working relationship
with the European Commission and a credible reputation with
the European Parliament. This year, Cosmetics Europe chose
to highlight the sustainability of the cosmetics industry at its
General Assembly and at an event at the European Parliament.
It also launched its Charter and Guiding Principles on
Self-Regulation in Advertising and held a lunch debate at the
European Parliament on ‘Beauty in Advertising: a Responsible
Approach’. This fits well with the work we have been doing in
the UK and we have happily promoted the Charter and
Guiding Principles to the UK advertising authorities with
whom we have a good working relationship.
From 11 March 2013, cosmetic products may not be marketed
in the EU if they or their ingredients have been tested on
animals in order to comply with the EU Cosmetic Products
Regulation. This marketing ban applies to all products whether
made in the EU or imported and is in addition to the testing
bans already in place. The cosmetics industry has invested
heavily in research into alternatives to animal testing with
some success. However, alternatives for long-term chronic
effects are still some years away. We now know that, although
the European Commission was legally required to evaluate
progress before the ban takes effect, there was no change to
the implementation date.
I want to thank all of the CTPA’s member companies who
provide help and support to our Association. CTPA exists
to serve its members’ interests and the active engagement
of company staff helps the CTPA and its Board of Directors
to set the strategy for the years ahead to enhance our
industry’s reputation and protect our licence to operate.
As I will retire from the CTPA Board in 2013, I want to thank
the other Board members for the help and support they have
given me over the last two years in my role as Chairman.
I am sure that you and your new Chairman will do everything
necessary to guide the CTPA in its work in support of the
cosmetics industry and build on its past success.
CTPA Annual Report 2012
03
Executive Summary
View from Dr Chris Flower, CTPA Director-General
For 2012, the Board of CTPA amended
the mission of the Association to add
the element of trust. We now strive
to be the ‘authoritative public voice of
a vibrant and responsible UK industry
trusted to act responsibly for the
consumer’. This is a significant change
and the Association’s work plan for
2012 was directed towards building and enhancing trust in
both the Association and the industry it represents in the eyes
of all stakeholders. The reason for this change rests in the
complex interplay between the degree to which an industry
sector is trusted, the level of regulatory intervention it receives
and the freedom it enjoys to exercise its licence to operate.
Building on existing trust was achieved by reinforcing
those behaviours which are now embedded in the way
your Association works for you and extending our reach
towards new contacts.
For example, 2011 saw the emergence of the issue of
body confidence about which I spoke in the 2011 Annual
Report. During 2012, the Association became engaged
with the Government in the debate on this issue alongside
organisations representing both advertisers and the
advertising industry. We took the opportunity to promote
the European Charter and Guiding Principles on Responsible
Advertising to Government, to the Advertising Standards
Authority and Clearcast, and to members. This has been
seen as a very positive sign that the cosmetics industry is
committed to alter the perception that exists in some minds
regarding the accuracy and responsibility of our sector in its
advertising and is willing to be held to account according to
clearly stated principles and practices.
Of course, ours is a global industry and in today’s world of
instant communication via the internet and, increasingly,
social media, trust in it is both precious and tenuous.
It is therefore vital that the national associations representing
cosmetics companies across the world are communicating
effectively with one another on key issues affecting our sector
and the trust consumers, regulators and others have in us.
Collaboration between the European associations through
Cosmetics Europe is well-established, with routine meetings
and a system for the development and circulation of
positions and statements. Increasingly, this has been
expanded to involve websites aimed at communicating
directly with the consumers themselves along the lines of
our own consumer site. However, the issues extend beyond
the borders of Europe these days.
Building on CTPA’s established record for pro-active
communications work, I have been collaborating with
our sister associations in Australia, Canada, South Africa,
New Zealand and the USA as well as Cosmetics Europe
to build an active network to enable us to develop and
co-ordinate our communications messages across a much
wider audience. This has led to these associations now
adding a regular international communications meeting
to their existing annual technical and regulatory meetings,
building mutual trust between our associations and the
companies we represent collectively. I very much see this
as the inevitable next step on the journey CTPA embarked
upon back in 2003 with the commencement of our
communications programme.
Executive comment
Dr Ged O’Shea
CTPA Vice-chairman
Anand Rangaswamy
CTPA Vice-chairman
John Harold
Honorary Treasurer
Clear and consistent messages regarding the
benefits brought to each person in the global
consumer population by safe, effective and
high quality cosmetics will be key to building
trust in our industry sector and securing its
licence to operate. Consistency requires
international collaboration between companies
and those who represent them. Once again,
CTPA has demonstrated leadership by acting
as the catalyst for this important development
in today’s society of instant communication.
7
04
Review of the Year
New EU Cosmetics Regulation
Cosmetic, toiletry and perfumery products (cosmetics) are subject to specific national safety laws, based on the European
Union’s Cosmetics Directive, that ensure only safe, high quality cosmetic products are made and sold. This safety legislation
has been the bedrock of our industry’s reputation, ensuring that consumers can be confident in the cosmetic products they
use every day. Always kept up-to-date with regular amendments, the Cosmetics Directive is now being superseded by the
EU Cosmetics Regulation and the phased introduction of the new Regulation will be complete on 11 July 2013.
The EU Regulation covers every EU country and the other members of the European Economic Area: Iceland, Norway
and Liechtenstein.
National cosmetics regulations are also superseded by the new EU Cosmetics Regulation although national laws will still be
required to give powers of enforcement to the relevant authorities. By having an EU-wide regulation, it will be much easier
to trade across national borders as companies will no longer have to worry about differences in local cosmetics regulations.
At the same time, some of the safety assessment requirements have been amended to cater for the latest technological
developments in cosmetic products and in-market controls have been improved. CTPA has always believed that effective
and efficient in-market controls contribute to the high level of consumer confidence in our products.
With the 2013 deadline approaching, 2012 was the year in which cosmetics manufacturers and importers really began
putting into practice their plans to embed the Regulation’s requirements into their companies’ systems and procedures.
Cosmetics Europe, the Personal Care Association, has been working with the European Commission to produce guidance
to the Cosmetics Regulation and CTPA has taken an active role in each of the working groups that have helped develop
that guidance.
Several industry guidelines have been developed and are available on the CTPA’s members’ only website via the Reference Zone.
However, attention to guidance continues as we still await publication of Commission guidelines on the Cosmetic Product Safety
Report in the new Annex I of the Regulation, the reporting of Serious Undesirable Effects (SUEs) and the Common Criteria on
Claims. It was eventually decided that this latter document will now be published as a European Commission Regulation in the
summer of 2013. As members of the Cosmetics Europe working groups, the CTPA staff are well-placed to offer up-to-date advice
on these key issues and to keep members informed of developments.
CPNP
One success was the European Commission’s on-line Cosmetic
Product Notification Portal (CPNP) going live on 11 January.
This single-point notification system takes the place of
individual product notifications to the authorities of those
countries where a product is sold. Companies need to ensure
that new and existing products on the market on 11 July 2013
have been notified using the new electronic CPNP system.
National Poisons Centres will also have direct access to the
system at all times, able to view the details of any of tens of
thousands of cosmetic products being sold in the EU.
8
In March, CTPA ran a two-day conference on the new
Regulation, attended by more than 150 of its members.
Competent authorities and invited distributors also joined
the event. Each element of the Regulation was discussed and
interactive sessions were held on the European Commission’s
new CPNP, reporting of Serious Undesirable Effects and the
cosmetic product safety assessment.
In November, CTPA organised a further workshop dedicated
to the new notification system to familiarise its members
with the portal. Demonstrations were given and problems
discussed. CTPA has written additional guidance to the CPNP
to elaborate on aspects of the system where people were
having difficulty.
CTPA Annual Report 2012
Nanomaterials
Nanomaterials and the measures needed to comply with the
new Cosmetics Regulation continue to be the topics of much
discussion within companies and between industry and the
European Commission. While the safety of nanomaterials
in cosmetic products is already covered by the Cosmetics
Directive, the new Regulation does require extra action to
be taken to further demonstrate this.
One key aspect is the definition of a nanomaterial and
its interpretation. However, there is a problem as the
nanomaterial definition contained in the Cosmetics Regulation
is different from the overarching definition of a nanomaterial
contained in a Recommendation published in 2011 by
the European Commission’s Directorate-General for the
Environment. Discussions continue between various
stakeholders on how to update the nanomaterial definition
for cosmetics and provide guidance on characterisation
methods, that is, how to measure the dimensions of
such small materials.
However, the Commission will not be issuing formal
technical guidance before July 2013. Cosmetics companies
and national authorities will have to manage a
non-harmonised interpretation and will have to fulfil their
obligations without routine measurement tools being
available. Cosmetics Europe has issued a nano guidance
package for use in the meantime.
Another, and important, new requirement for nanomaterials
is the need to notify them. This is over and above the normal
product notification but will be done using the electronic
CPNP. The Commission liaised with the cosmetics industry
to ensure that the portal will be intuitive to use. The CTPA
took part in the Commission’s ‘train the trainers’ day towards
the end of the year. CTPA is therefore able to offer specific
advice to companies if they require help in notifying products
after the nano-notification portal goes live in January 2013.
The Cosmetics Regulation has annexes listing substances
whose use in cosmetics is restricted. Additionally, colours,
preservatives and UV filters must be listed in their respective
Annexes before they may be used. All of the restrictions and
conditions of use are specified, including whether or not the
nanomaterial form of the substance is approved.
However, no ingredient annex entry currently has a specific
nano listing. To use any of the listed ingredients in their
nanomaterial form after 11 July 2013, new safety dossiers
must be created and submitted for review by the European
Commission’s expert Scientific Committee on Consumer
Safety, the SCCS. Although only a few colours and UV filters
are involved, Cosmetics Europe has set up consortia
to defend those ingredients and dossiers have been
submitted. Once approved, the relevant entries in the
Annexes will be changed to include the nanomaterial
form of those substances. The SCCS and the European
Commission are aware of the tight deadline.
The notification requirements for nanomaterials do
not apply to substances listed in the Annexes to the
Cosmetics Regulation.
Animal Testing
The final deadline for the complete phasing out of the
placing on the EU market of cosmetic products that have
been tested on animals is 11 March 2013. The Cosmetics
Regulation requires the European Commission to study any
technical difficulties in complying with the ban, in particular
the development of alternative methods for repeated dose
toxicity, reproductive toxicity and toxicokinetics. If the
European Commission concludes that alternative testing
methods that do not use animals will not be developed,
it must report to the European Parliament and the
European Council and put forward a legislative proposal
before that deadline.
Through Cosmetics Europe, the cosmetics industry has
submitted the information requested by the European
Commission as it carries out its study. No decision had
been taken by the end of 2012 on what legislative
proposals the Commission might bring forward.
Making Cosmetics
In March, CTPA made the unusual step of taking a stand
at a new exhibition called Making Cosmetics.
Other exhibitors included representatives from contract
manufacturing, packaging, laboratory, test and analytical
equipment companies. Alongside the exhibition there was
an extensive programme of seminars, workshops and
demonstrations. Making Cosmetics proved to be a
successful way of highlighting the new Cosmetics
Regulation to attendees but also it was good to speak
with so many budding cosmetics companies – and it was
important to be able to highlight the legislation to them!
The decision to exhibit again at Making Cosmetics in 2013
was supported by the Board. As well as taking a stand,
CTPA will be involved in the programme of lectures providing
a presentation to start-up companies on the basics of
cosmetics legislation – an ‘all you need to know’ check list.
CTPA will also present on the new Cosmetics Regulation.
9
04 Review of the Year
Biocidal Products Regulation
There are many safety regulations that apply to consumer
products. It is possible for cosmetic products to appear
to be caught by other regulations in addition to the
Cosmetics Regulation. These ‘borderline’ classification
issues are well-known and, usually, cosmetic products are
specifically excluded from such other regulations to prevent
confusion and a disproportionate regulatory burden.
Having mitigated last minute changes to the new Biocidal
Products Regulation that introduced the possibility of dual
regulation, CTPA and Cosmetics Europe thought the
outcome satisfactory, protecting the integrity of the
Cosmetics Regulation whilst allowing inherent biocidal
functions in a cosmetic and allowing the use of secondary
biocidal claims, such as ‘antibacterial’.
We were surprised, therefore, to find that the draft Irish
guidelines on the cosmetic product/biocidal products
borderline, heavily criticised during its consultation period
by the cosmetics industry, had been adopted as draft
Commission guidance by DG Environment, which leads on
biocides for the European Commission. DG Sanco, which is
responsible for cosmetic products, had not been involved at
that time. So a long rearguard action began to amend the
guidance, exclude cosmetics from the scope of the Biocidal
Products Regulation, and re-establish the primacy of the
Cosmetics Regulation for our products.
The biocides and cosmetics regulations work in totally
different ways. The Biocidal Products Regulation requires
pre-approval of each active biocidal ingredient followed
by approval for each product on the market using that
ingredient. Labelling is hazard-based.
10
The Cosmetics Regulations are based on a manufacturer’s
responsibility for placing a product on the market with no
pre-approvals as long as the manufacturer ensures the
product is safe and complies with the requirements and
restrictions laid down in the Regulation. This works in tandem
with effective in-market controls by the enforcement
authorities. Dual regulation, where a product must conform
to both sets of regulations is expensive, complex and,
for cosmetic products, does not improve consumer safety.
In the UK, the Health & Safety Executive (HSE), the UK
competent authority for biocides, and the Department of
Business, Innovation and Skills (BIS), responsible for consumer
safety legislation including cosmetics legislation, have given
us strong support. Cosmetics Europe has met with various
branches of the European Commission and provided
materials to national cosmetics associations to allow them
to have an informed discussion with their own national
competent authorities. In September, CTPA took part in,
and presented at, a commercial conference attended by
many national competent authorities for biocidal products,
making the case for maintaining the exclusion of cosmetic
products from biocides legislation.
By the end of the year, the situation had not yet been resolved
although the latest version of the Commission guidance has
improved but is still not satisfactory. Our advice is to continue
with the longstanding understanding of the cosmetic product/
biocidal product borderline as outlined in the old European
Commission guidance dating from 2002/2003. CTPA will
continue to promote the Cosmetics Regulation as the most
appropriate piece of legislation to manage the safety of
cosmetics whether or not they also have biocidal effects,
make secondary biocidal claims or contain preservatives.
CTPA Annual Report 2012
76%
admitted they would not carry out an Allergy Alert Test
before applying the hair colorant they use.
Colour with Confidence Campaign launched December 2012
Media reports on allergic reactions to hair colorants are not uncommon,
although industry data do not suggest an actual increase in reactions to
hair colorants. Industry continues to promote the Allergy Alert Test as the
best way of indicating whether an individual has developed an allergy to
a hair colorant, in a small discreet area before going on to colour the hair.
However, it is also acknowledged that uptake of the Allergy Alert Test
can be improved.
Research* carried out by YouGov Plc (12-15 October 2012) showed 13.7
million women in the UK planned to colour their hair for the party season
ahead of Christmas Day. However, more than three quarters (76%)
admitted they would not carry out an Allergy Alert Test beforehand and
so had no way of knowing if they could face an unexpected reaction to
the hair colorant they use. Limited understanding of how allergy works
could be driving this lack of preparedness. According to the research,
half (49%) of women say that the reason they do not carry out the
Allergy Alert Test is because they have “coloured their hair lots of times,
and never had a problem”.
In order to raise the importance of the Allergy Alert
Test, both with home-kit users and in the salon, the
CTPA joined forces with the National Hairdressers’
Federation (NHF) to launch ‘Colour With Confidence’
at the end of the year. Headed by the President of
NHF and celebrity hair stylist, Mark Coray, Colour
With Confidence encourages people to perform an
Allergy Alert Test every time they colour their hair.
Mark shared his key style tips in a collection of
‘how-to’ video guides and other top stylists from across the industry
also backed the Colour with Confidence campaign providing great tips.
All of these can be accessed via the CTPA’s consumer and media website
www.thefactsabout.co.uk
* This survey was conducted between 12-15 October 2012 by YouGov Plc from
a sample size of 2,053 UK adults. The figures have been weighted and are
representative of all UK adults aged 18+. 55.6% of women surveyed planned
to colour their hair between then and Christmas Day that year. According to
the Office for National Statistics mid-2007 population estimates, there were
24,699,021 women in the UK. 55.6% of this figure is 13,732,655.
11
04 Review of the Year
Ingredient Issues
The Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) issued
over 30 opinions in 2012, many becoming final opinions
following a public consultation. The SCCS continued its
work on assessing hair dyes for eventual positive listing in
the Annexes to the Cosmetics Regulation. Other subjects
addressed were various preservatives and also an in-depth
review of nitrosamines.
Fragrances
One opinion was that addressing the potential for fragrance
ingredients to cause allergy. A follow-up to a 1999 opinion
was issued by the SCCS as a preliminary opinion in
December 2011 and was subject to a public consultation.
The final opinion was adopted in June 2012 with some
amendments. However the SCCS continued to defend its
conclusions that additional labelling and/or limits should be
applied to specific allergens and that HICC (hydroxyisohexyl
3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde, Lyral), chloroatranol and
atranol are not considered safe when used in cosmetic
products. The opinion contains lists of substances that
are ranked as likely, possible and established fragrance
allergens of special concern.
Cosmetics Europe is working with the International Fragrance
Association (IFRA) to discuss the opinion with the European
Commission and what risk management measures may result.
Parabens
Discussions continued on the proposed entry for propyl- and
butyl-parabens in Annex V of the Cosmetics Regulation,
the positive list for preservatives, and the anticipated ban
of the branched-chain parabens. The European Commission
mandated the SCCS to look again at propyl- and
butyl-parabens to address questions raised by Denmark on the
exposure from sunscreens for children under three years old.
The Commission is addressing the proposed ban of the
iso-parabens separately and a public consultation closed at
the end of November. There is still no definite date when
the final ban will be implemented but we anticipate that an
Adaptation to Technical Progress (ATP), amending the
Cosmetics Regulation, will be issued in 2013.
12
Cyclic Siloxanes (D4 & D5) Risk Management Measures
Cyclic siloxanes are incredibly useful and important cosmetic
ingredients with a unique range of attributes. They are used
in a wide range of products, are volatile but not flammable
and have a low heat of evaporation which means they don’t
feel cold on the skin. They act as solvents and give a smooth,
silky feel to skin products. For many years, the cyclic siloxanes
known as D4 and D5 have been the subject of a long series
of reviews for both human and environmental safety.
A potential environmental problem has been identified
where D4 and D5 are discharged to rivers or the sea from
their use in cosmetic products. Regulatory action in this
type of case is undertaken under the auspices of the
REACH Regulation (Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation
and Restriction of Chemicals). The cosmetics industry has
been waiting for the UK REACH Competent Authority to
announce its intentions with regard to proposed
environmental risk management measures.
CTPA has been informed that the UK will ‘undertake further
work with a view to submitting targeted Annex XV
Restriction dossiers to the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA)
for D4 and D5’. The UK’s Risk Management Opinion analysis
papers, which were prepared as part of the decision-making
process, have been shared with CTPA, members of the
Cosmetics Europe Task Force D4/D5 and the European
Chemical Industry Council (Cefic/CES).
The HSE states in its reports for both D4 and D5:
“The exact nature and scope of the restriction will
depend on the detailed analysis that will be performed
as the Annex XV dossier is developed, but we anticipate
that it would most likely relate to concentration limits
for personal care and cleaning/household care products
(and possibly sub-categories thereof), and possibly
waste water emission limits at non-IPPC sites.”
The UK REACH Competent Authority has engaged consultants
to carry out a socio-economic assessment of the effects of
measures to control the use of D4 and D5. It has invited
the cosmetics industry to continue its dialogue with it on
the use of these materials. Cosmetics Europe’s Task Force
has engaged its own consultants to gather data to feed
into the UK review. The outcome should be known by
the summer of 2013 at which point it will be submitted to
the ECHA.
CTPA Annual Report 2012
Cosmetics Europe Celebrates 50 Years
CTPA congratulates Cosmetics Europe, the Personal
Care Association, on its 50th anniversary.
Its membership consists of 27 national associations,
18 major international companies and 7 associate
members. Through the national associations, some
4000 companies are represented and the industry
employs a total of 1.7 million people either directly
or indirectly, including about 17,000 scientists.
The President of Cosmetics Europe, Fabio Franchina,
said: “The European cosmetics industry is a
fundamental driver of innovation. Our industry
has responded effectively to new challenges in a
globalised market. ‘Cosmetics Europe - the Personal
Care Association’ will continue to work with our
member companies and associations to enable
our industry to thrive and in order to maintain an
effective dialogue with our stakeholders.”
We wish them well for the next 50 years.
Chinese Authorities Visit Europe
The Chinese Food and Drug Administration (SFDA)
visited CTPA in September as part of a fact-finding
tour of several European cosmetic associations.
Also participating were representatives of the
Department for Business, Innovation and Skills (BIS)
and Cosmetics Europe. SFDA had also visited the
associations in Spain and Germany. We explained
in-market control and demonstrated how a single
European Cosmetics Regulation is enforced to a
consistent standard in each Member State despite
being carried out by different national organisations
rather than one Europe-wide enforcement body.
Such visits help to foster greater understanding of
how Europe ensures its cosmetic products are safe.
13
05
A Career in Cosmetic Science
London College of Fashion BSc (Hons) Cosmetic Science
The London College of Fashion (LCF) has been running a BSc
(Hons) Cosmetic Science course for over 10 years and the
2012/13 academic year saw the start of an integrated MSc
Cosmetic Science which will replace the original course but
provide a BSc exit point.
The CTPA has supported the Cosmetic Science course since
inception and is really pleased to see that graduates from the
course have found interesting posts either within the industry
or as a starting point for their own business. Some students
have gone on to further academic studies. Read about the
course experiences and career paths since graduating of five
LCF alumni.
Pauline Hui
Haircare Sensory Designer & Formulation
Scientist - multi-national company,
Graduating cohort 2008
With an interest in science and a passion for beauty, I took
science A levels in addition to a BTEC in Beauty Therapy
Sciences and followed with the degree course in Cosmetic
Science at the LCF. The course included everything from
formulating products to learning about product and
packaging, legislation, marketing, supply chain and statistics.
I spent my industrial placement year working in a laboratory
as a formulation technologist in the colour cosmetics team,
even helping to reformulate a lipstick range, and my final
year research project was for the same company.
Once I graduated, LCF introduced me to the International
Summer School of Science and Engineering where I spent
a summer in Lyon, France and carried out a research
project on emulsifiers as well as learning French. Soon after,
my placement company offered me a job in the skin care
team. I spent three years working on formulating women’s
and men’s skincare, as well as washing and bathing products.
More recently, I have been working as a Haircare Sensory
Designer and Formulation Scientist in the Global Consumer
Technical Insights Team. I am learning about consumers’
habits and attitudes and understanding why consumers buy
the products that they do.
I don’t believe that I would be where I am now without the
grounding I gained from LCF and it’s great to see so many
friends on the same course become successful too.
14
Elisabeth (Lissie) Dufton
Full-time Masters by Research,
University of Leeds,
Graduating cohort 2010
When deciding on my future career, I wanted something that
fitted both my interest in science and my passion for creativity.
Cosmetic Science at LCF catered for both, covering everything
from raw material selection and chemistry of formulations
to marketing and legislation. The third year work placement
in Germany was so valuable, putting theory into practice.
I worked on preserving cosmetics, learning advanced skills
in microbiology and researching novel ways to tackle natural
preservation. In my final year, I worked on a project to test
an anti-ageing cream in vivo, evaluating the change in skin
parameters such as barrier permeability, pigmentation and
topography over time.
After I graduated I worked as a research assistant at the
University of Leeds in the role of formulations scientist,
looking into natural, functional ingredients. I am now
embarking on a new journey – a full-time Masters by
Research looking into the efficacy and enhancing the
delivery of natural actives to the skin. The foundations
of the LCF course have provided the perfect platform to
launch me into a rewarding, scientific and creative career.
Nirmita Sheth
Senior Cosmetic Scientist global cosmetic brand,
Graduating cohort 2007
The BSc (Hons) Cosmetic Science degree is an amazing course
for anyone who wishes to pursue a career in any sector of the
cosmetic industry, including R&D, regulatory, marketing and
project management. My first job was as a Technical Officer
within the regulatory department of a creative and dynamic
company. I was responsible for updating the business with
regulation updates/changes, the Product Information File, liaising
with external testing houses, collating raw material information
and much more.
However, I missed formulating in the laboratory and took the
opportunity when a vacancy arose as a Junior Chemist.
Two years on I was promoted to Senior Chemist. I now head
many projects and am able to make critical project decisions.
I have travelled abroad for conferences, trade shows and
training to our sister company in the US. I have been with the
company for over 5 years now and am thinking about further
education. My long-term objective is to deliver promising and
innovative products to the market and specialise in a particular
field of skincare and/or suncare.
CTPA Annual Report 2012
Sara Bergstedt
Own Product Development Company,
Graduating cohort 2005
Gemma Braganza (formerly
Smithers)
R & D Hair, Asia - multi-national company,
Graduating cohort 2005
Joining the LCF BSc course in 2001 was the best decision
I ever made. I originally spent three years studying
engineering. However, after graduating I moved to London
and spent six years in beauty retail before continuing my
studies, experience which gained me valuable insight in to
consumer shopping habits. Being a bit older when I started
the degree meant I was very determined to succeed and
make the most of the course.
Since finishing the BSc Cosmetic Science in 2005, I have been
working in the product development department of a
multi-national company. My first assignment was in the hair
colorants department, building on my industry placement
when I worked as product development assistant in a small
cosmetics and toiletries development and manufacturing
company. This has given me valuable perspective on how a
small versus large company operates.
During my placement year, I worked as a technician in the
laboratory of a contract manufacturer. A fast-paced business,
I gained a lot of experience in a short time and I recommend
anyone who has the chance of a placement to take it.
The same company offered me a permanent position;
I wrote my final project while working there and was
promoted to Chemist upon graduating in 2005.
My assignments within hair colorants spanned multiple
brands, technologies (bleaches, tints, developers), and roles.
Over seven years, I have gained both formulation and process
development experience and worked in new product areas such
as the hair removal category. I was also able to develop other
transferrable skills such as statistics and formulation modelling.
After progressing to become Product Development Manager,
I decided to strike out on my own. Starting with just one
client, the business has grown and I have worked on
projects for small British start-ups as well as for large
multi-national corporations requiring advice on how to
bridge the communication gap between the technical and
marketing departments.
The course has excellent support from the cosmetics industry,
which is invaluable. We were encouraged to join the Society
of Cosmetic Scientists (SCS) and I was honoured to join the
SCS Council in 2010 where I am chair of the International
Journal of Cosmetic Science committee. I am also delighted
that, with the help of the SCS, there is now a two-page
spread in The Careers Directory distributed to secondary
schools, helping students interested in science to have useful
information on the careers available in our exciting industry.
Most recently, I have moved to our new R&D centre in
Singapore, designing products for the global hair conditioner
business. It has been an exciting transition, working at a
growing site, near one of the largest expanding consumer
markets. Hopefully, this new role will give me new
experiences both professionally and personally.
CTPA bursary awards being given to LCF students for
the 2011/2012 academic year.
www.fashion.arts.ac.uk/courses/integrated-masters
15
06
CTPA Events
CTPA Seminar on the EU Cosmetics Regulation
1-2 March 2012 - Royal College of Physicians, London
CTPA held a seminar on the EU Cosmetics Regulation
in March attended by 180 delegates, of which 162
representatives were from 89 companies comprising
industry, retailers and other associations.
CTPA provided delegates with its interpretation of key areas
of the new legislation, the latest information available from
the European Commission’s working groups and guidance
from Cosmetics Europe. As well as presenting on roles and
responsibilities, the Product Information File (PIF) and claims,
there was practical advice and demonstrations of the new
electronic Cosmetic Products Notification Portal (CPNP)
followed by discussions on the implications of the new
Cosmetic Product Safety Report and the associated
Commission guidelines.
In the first presentation, Dr Emma Meredith, Head of Scientific
& Technical Services, CTPA, outlined the new layout of the
Regulation, changes to the articles and the re-numbering
of the annexes. Emma covered all significant changes in the
new Cosmetics Regulation unless they were due to be
covered later in the seminar. For example, the new section on
definitions is a very welcome addition and allows the articles
of the Regulation to be interpreted correctly.
Dr Emma Meredith
Olivia Santoni
Olivia Santoni, Regulatory Affairs Manager, CTPA, discussed
the roles and responsibilities of companies and the duties
of the Responsible Person (RP). There may only be one RP,
usually the legal entity that places the product on the market
or imports the product into the EU; it is not necessarily the
company that actually manufactures the product.
The Cosmetics Regulation introduces the possibility of
nominating someone else to be Responsible Person but that
company or individual needs to be very sure they can meet all
of the obligations including being responsible for the safety of
the product, any failures and, in the worst case, recalling the
product from the market. Distributors also have some specific
obligations such as keeping records of supply and not
providing products past their ‘Best Before’ date.
16
Dr Marie Kennedy
Amanda Isom Dr Chris Flower
Dr Marie Kennedy, Manager International Compliance,
Elizabeth Arden, presented on the what, when, who and
how aspects of the new notification requirements for RPs
and distributors. Marie was then joined by Amanda Isom,
Technical Affairs Manager, CTPA, who spoke about the
issues that companies may be facing getting started with
the electronic notification web-based portal and, in particular,
a note of caution on who is authorised to enter information
on behalf of your company. This information is visible to
anyone who looks at the website and is, in effect, public
knowledge. Marie and Amanda accessed an Association
training copy of the notification system in order to
demonstrate how to notify various product types.
A networking drinks reception and dinner was held at the
Royal College of Physicians and gave delegates the chance
to discuss the day’s events.
The second day was Chaired by Dr Chris Flower,
Director-General, CTPA, who also spoke on the progress
being made by the European Commission in developing
common criteria for claims for cosmetic products.
Although proceeding smoothly, the opportunity was
being taken by some Member States to expand the
discussions into areas of their concern, notably ‘free from’
claims, natural and/or organic claims and claims with a
health-related element. Such a discussion cannot be
ignored and the outcomes may ultimately result in changes
to the current use of some of these types of claims.
Dr Lindsay Holden, at the time the CTPA’s Scientific Affairs
Manager, presented the requirements of the Regulation
for products containing nanomaterials, that is labelling,
declaration under the CPNP and the nano-notification for
products containing certain nanomaterials. The definition
of a nanomaterial is critical in determining which ingredients
are affected and Lindsay detailed the current status of
discussions surrounding the issue.
CTPA Annual Report 2012
l to r - Stephen Kirk
and Dr John Hopkins
180 delegates from 89 companies
attended the CTPA seminar in March 2012
CTPA Seminar on the EU Cosmetics Regulation
1-2 March 2012 - Royal College of Physicians, London
Dr Emma Meredith followed with the communication of
Serious Undesirable Effects (SUEs). The RP and distributor
must report SUEs to the competent authority of the
Member State where the SUE occurred within 20 calendar
days. When a SUE is reported to the Competent Authority,
that authority has to alert the authorities in all other
Member States.
Emma introduced the Commission draft guidance which has
been developed by PEMSAC (Platform European Market
Surveillance and Administrative Co-operation). Key to the
guidance is harmonised reporting of SUEs based on a
recognised causality assessment, to ensure any reported
undesirable event is linked with a cosmetic product.
The information on undesirable effects kept only applies to
those which have been classed as likely or highly likely to
be attributable to a product. All SUEs, other than those that
have been excluded from being related to a product, need to
be reported and kept in the PIF. Information on undesirable
effects, and especially SUEs, could affect the safety
assessment. Therefore, all should be considered by the
safety assessor as part of the Cosmetic Product Safety Report.
Amanda Isom presented the new Cosmetics Europe guidelines
on Product Information Files (PIFs) which have been revised
to provide practical advice on complying with the changes
under the Regulation. CTPA receives many queries relating to
the compilation of PIFs and Amanda highlighted some of the
frequently answered questions within her presentation.
To close the seminar, Dr John Hopkins, Director, Innovant
Research, and Stephen Kirk, Senior Manager – Toxicology,
Boots UK, reviewed the new requirements for the cosmetics
safety assessment and the Cosmetic Product Safety Report.
The new requirements are much more prescriptive in what
information needs to be gathered, what needs to be assessed
and how the assessment must be recorded in the report.
One major difference is that the reasoning of the safety
assessor in making his or her safety assessment must be
detailed in the report. This is not a check-box approach and
it must be based on a thorough evaluation of all data and
especially taking into account the weight of evidence.
John and Stephen covered every aspect of a safety
assessment according to the new requirements using
examples to illustrate their points where necessary.
Cosmetics Basics workshops 2012
“ Excellent update on cosmetic legislation,
very professional slides and presentations.
A very worthwhile course ”
“ Fantastic references for future
use. Really clear explanations
on all subjects ”
CTPA member Regulatory Director
CTPA member Own Brand Product Technologist
Another year of success for the CTPA Cosmetics Basics Workshops with more than
55 delegates attending the 4 sessions during 2012.
The CTPA Cosmetics Basics Workshops benefit a wide range of members including
manufacturers, brand owners, sub-contractors and retailers.
The format of each workshop provides an overview of the pertinent EU legislative requirements
for cosmetic products as well as giving members the opportunity to discuss specific issues
they are facing in their everyday job. It is an excellent way for members to learn more about
membership benefits and how to make the best use of CTPA services, including accessing the
right member of staff for confidential one-to-one advice.
The Cosmetics Basics Workshops have been updated for 2013 to incorporate the latest
changes to the legislative framework in Europe with the new EU Cosmetics Regulation
coming fully into force from 11 July 2013.
17
07
Digital (R)evolution
Extending the CTPA’s Communication Journey
The media landscape is changing beyond recognition.
Increased connectivity, mobility and accessibility have created
a 24/7 flow of information. This proliferation of content
means we are constantly in filter-mode, sifting, digesting
and sharing information. In fact, we share more content from
more sources with more people more often and more quickly
than ever before.
Sharing
The trend of sharing content online is rising:
four in ten consumers aged 16-74 share content
online. This climbs to over six in ten among
16-24s.[1] 49% of consumers say sharing allows
them to inform others of products they care
about and potentially change opinions or
encourage action.[2]
Ever-expanding content on the Internet is placing new
demands on companies and brands, and on organisations
like the CTPA. It’s no longer enough to broadcast your
message to the world on your terms: consumers increasingly
expect a two-way dialogue. They expect to be listened to,
and to receive relevant content in return within the channels
and formats that they choose to consume. More often than
not, consumers prefer their content in bite-sized, shareable
chunks, but above all they expect facts that are transparent
and arrive fast.
Meeting emerging expectations is critical to trust
How well, or not, companies and brands respond to these
emerging expectations is fundamental to making or breaking
consumer trust, and an organisation like the CTPA is no
exception. At the end of 2011 we set out an evolved
ambition for the Association: ‘to be the authoritative public
voice of a vibrant and responsible UK industry trusted to
act responsibly for the consumer’. Today it is clear that our
success in achieving this ambition, and our ability to embrace
the changing media environment in which we operate,
are inextricably linked.
As far back as 2007, CTPA identified the importance of a
robust digital communications strategy for building trust.
We commissioned a comprehensive digital audit to
understand how our audiences used digital channels to
obtain information about our industry and its products,
especially in response to safety scare stories in the media.
The findings were clear: there was a significant information
gap for consumers, journalists and stakeholders searching
for relevant content online.
In response we created our public-facing website,
www.thefactsabout.co.uk, which provides science-based
facts about key issues concerning the safety and efficacy
of industry products, answers common questions and
responds to topical news stories. It also includes a Media
Alerts feed to which journalists and stakeholders can
subscribe. Linking out, wherever possible, to further
information from authoritative, independent third parties
reinforces our willingness to be transparent as an industry and
to respond to our audiences’ concerns - key building blocks
of trust.
The website has proven to be a resounding success,
with traffic and time spent on site increasing year-on-year.
There was an average of 6,000 visits per month between
August 2011- August 2012, and the site enjoyed 52,514
unique users during the period with an up-lift in
search-generated traffic, where consumers are searching
via a series of keywords and clicking onto the site as the
most relevant destination for them. Spikes in traffic mirror
when stories about the safety or efficacy of the industry’s
products are published in mainstream media; an encouraging
sign that the site is being used as intended.
“Social Sharing And Influence – Understanding Social Influence
Online”, Future Foundation
[1]
“The Psychology of Sharing: Why Do People Share Online?”
conducted by the New York Times Customer Insight Group,
http://nytmarketing.whsites.net/mediakit/pos/
[2]
18
CTPA Annual Report 2012
Listen, learn and evolve
Since the launch of www.thefactsabout.co.uk in 2008,
digital communications have been a central, and growing,
element of our workplan. The foundation-stone of this
work is a dedicated digital listening strand. Each year we
undertake a comprehensive digital audit to enable us to
understand the key issues that could impact our audiences’
trust in the industry, now or in the future, and identify
the barriers and opportunities for building greater trust.
These audits also include telephone interviews with
key stakeholders.
Expert opinion
Expert opinions and recommendations are
highly valued online. One in three consumers
say they are now more influenced by experts
online, while a third say they are less influenced
by their generic social networking contacts.[1]
Every year, without fail, this exercise in listening to how
our audiences talk about key industry issues creates valuable
insights that shape our workplan, and the 2012 audit
was no exception. An analysis of debate around PPD
(paraphenylenediamine) and hair colorant allergy revealed
that while background discussion online was minimal,
mainstream media coverage of hair colorant reactions
would lead to significant spikes in conversation as worried
consumers shared their own experiences and concerns.
A more in-depth look revealed that the debate had two
important characteristics from our industry’s perspective.
• Firstly, it was clear that there was significant
misunderstanding of how allergy works: in particular that allergies can develop over time. This fuelled negative discussion about the safety profile of PPD in particular,
and generated the myth that you only need to carry out an Allergy Alert Test the first time you colour your hair.
• Secondly, it was evident that conversation tends to ‘snowball’ through social channels. It starts out with reader comments on national news websites then makes its way into wider social media via social sharing of the news articles and finally rolls into discussion threads on Facebook, Twitter and highly trafficked forums such as Mumsnet.
The findings pointed to the continued importance of CTPA
providing balancing facts and quotes for mainstream media
articles about PPD and hair colorant allergy.
However, they also revealed an opportunity for the industry
to educate consumers and journalists about how allergies
work and the importance of carrying out an Allergy Alert
Test each time you colour your hair. In response,
a collaborative education campaign was conceived and
launched in partnership with the National Hairdressers
Federation (NHF): Colour With Confidence.
“Social Sharing And Influence – Understanding Social
Influence Online”, Future Foundation
[1]
19
07 Digital (R)evolution
‘How-To’ videos with Mark Coray, celebrity hairdresser and President of the NHF
Putting insights into practice:
the Colour With Confidence campaign
We had learned that there was misunderstanding and
apathy about Allergy Alert Tests (AATs), that the debate
was happening behind closed doors and that when it
comes to hair, our target of 16+ female consumers are
most interested in their own haircare wants and needs.
Our approach was therefore to cut through consumer
apathy surrounding AATs by:
Using Twitter as a tool for trust
The 2012 Communications Audit identified an opportunity
for CTPA to extend and enhance its activity on Twitter as part
of its wider ambition to build trust, credibility and visibility for
our consumer site. The audit noted the growing importance
of Twitter as a communications channel among key
stakeholders. For example, journalists use it to amplify
awareness of stories, stakeholders use it to rally audience
support, and all parties use it to share opinions and showcase
expertise. It also provides journalists with another way to
engage with the Association and allows CTPA to provide
rapid responses and rebuttals around key issues, driving traffic
to www.thefactsabout.co.uk in a closely targeted way.
• reinforcinghowallergieswork;
• incorporatinginformationaboutAATsinto
consumer-friendly, holistic advice about hair
colouring/styling, navigating away from
negative stories with fun, positive content that
stylists and consumers wanted to share; and
• usingaseasonalhooktomakethesubjectof allergy newsworthy.
To do this we used the Christmas party season as a
launch-pad to educate consumers by commissioning
polling to reveal the number of women who would colour
their hair ahead of the festive period but would not perform
an AAT. We included tips from top hairdressers containing
Colour With Confidence messaging, created bespoke
‘How-To’ videos with Mark Coray, celebrity hairdresser
and President of the NHF, and provided key stakeholders
with template content for Twitter.
We secured an editorial partnership with Mumsnet, which
our audit had identified as a priority target for our message,
owing to the high level of relevant conversation. The site
hosted two of our Colour With Confidence videos,
while a further editorial video placement was secured on
Cosmopolitan magazine online, helping to reach a younger
audience of hair colorant users.
While CTPA’s activity on the micro-blogging platform has
increased year-on-year, the audit suggested that CTPA could
derive even more value from it by identifying key health
and beauty influencers and engaging them in a dialogue
around priority issues that could impact trust. In addition to
the Colour with Confidence activity, it was agreed that the
CTPA should become more active on Twitter in 2013 to build
and enhance important relationships, address questions and
misperceptions in a timely manner – and capitalise on key
calendar moments to promote the positive benefits of the
industry and its products.
Adapting our approach, building our expertise
Against the context of the changing media landscape,
CTPA has continued to extend and adapt its approach to
digital communications each year, again supported by insights
from our audits. Over the course of 2012, for example,
we doubled our video output in direct response to feedback
from media that their audiences find video a digestible and
shareable way to consume content, especially where the
subject matter is scientific or technical. Short videos proved
the perfect vehicle for our Colour With Confidence
campaign, where the message needed to be both
educational and entertaining.
CTPA has also extended its expertise to key bloggers over
the last year, mindful of the trust they enjoy from their
often modestly-sized, but fervently loyal, followings.
Although the factual content remains unaltered, this audience
requires a slightly different approach if that content is to be
seen as compelling.
Our digital communications strategy remains a constantly
moving feast, reflective of the landscape around us. To stand
still would risk being left behind, or impact the hard-earned
trust of our audiences. Over the course of the coming year
we are committed to constantly reviewing our approach,
the way the consumer site is set-up and to continue to evolve
it with the times. This on-going evolution will be integral
to safeguarding, and pro-actively building, trust in the
Association, our industry and its products.
20
CTPA Annual Report 2012
“Rapidly-evolving digital channels provide brands with
the opportunity to reach more people, more easily,
more often. But it’s not one-way: everyone can now
have their say and, as a result, more conversations good and bad - are taking place about a huge range
of companies. This means trust is more fragile than
ever but the right kind of engagement can inform
sceptics and inspire supporters to become advocates.
The CTPA has demonstrated real awareness of the
changing communications landscape, and has moved
faster than many major companies and brands to use
digital channels in a way that builds trust. Its use of
Twitter to provide balanced facts about the safety of
cosmetics and toiletries is simple and effective, and
its engagement with forums such as Mumsnet allows
it to communicate clearly and transparently with key
audiences in the places where they gather.”
Craig Elder, Head of Digital, Blue Rubicon
Our digital communications strategy
remains a constantly moving feast,
reflective of the landscape around us.
To stand still would risk being left
behind, or impact the hard-earned
trust of our audiences.
“We always want ‘how-to’ guides because our
members like them – style guides in particular are
popular and video is perfect because it’s easy to
follow. We can’t have something ‘preachy’ because
members need to be able to trust what they’re
watching – independence is paramount to
Mumsnet – so any safety messages you want to get
out have to be in the context of delivering something
that members actually want. Plus getting people
to stop what they are doing and watch or listen to
new messages can be helped by incentives such as
competitions, or by asking people their opinion
rather than telling them something.”
Carrie Longton, Co-Founder, Mumsnet
21
08
Inside and Out:
New Research Affirms Positive Role of Our Industry on Self-Esteem
In recent years there has been growing social and political
interest in the subject of body confidence and its relation to
self-esteem. There is a multi-faceted debate about the factors
that influence this and how different sections of society,
government and industry might be able to play a positive
role in making people feel good about the way they look,
especially where young people are concerned.
The Campaign for Body Confidence catalysed this
conversation in earnest when it launched in 2010 and
since then the discussion has continued to move on apace.
In 2012, CTPA was invited to participate in an All Party
Parliamentary Group (APPG) on Body Image, encompassing
multiple industries and campaigning groups, which aims
to take a collaborative approach to boosting the nation’s
body confidence.
The central thread to all of this work is a growing recognition
that how we feel about our external appearance can have a
significant impact on how confident we feel on the inside;
a truth that has been at the heart of our industry since the
earliest cosmetics, toiletries and scents were invented.
However, while the outward effects of our products are
reviewed, critiqued and admired – probably every second or
so – far less is said about their very positive holistic benefits.
Our industry – proven to support self-esteem
While the wider body confidence debate is relatively new,
CTPA has been working with experts in the field for nearly
a decade to develop a better understanding of the general
over-arching significance of self-esteem and body
confidence for society, the role our appearances play
within this, and how our industry can contribute to building
individuals’ self-esteem. Over the years, this work has
consistently reinforced the vital and very beneficial role that
cosmetics, toiletries and perfumes can play in this respect
and our most recent research project is no exception.
In April this year we commissioned a survey of 2,000 UK
adults1 to ascertain how they rate their self-esteem and
uncover the different factors that affect this. It’s a research
project we have repeated intermittently since 2004 to
understand the nature of our industry’s contribution to
self-esteem and any change in this over time. Feeling confident
about one’s appearance rated as the most important factor
for building up self-esteem, above having a large group
of friends, being financially successful and even having a
supportive family.
22
1
Almost three quarters (74%) of female respondents and
almost half (49%) of men described cosmetics and toiletries
as important to them for building their self-esteem.
When asked which products were valued the most for
building up self-esteem, deodorants and oral care
products were rated most important by both sexes,
followed by moisturiser and hair products. A third of female
respondents reported that they’d find it really hard to live
without foundation or concealer, while one in four men
valued aftershave for giving them that little, but important,
lift in confidence.
Skin science supports self-esteem as we age
Interestingly, while young people were most likely to report
that their appearances are an important factor in building
self-esteem, the survey suggests that how we look affects
how we feel, whatever our age. Nearly two-thirds of people
aged over 55 ranked their appearance as an important factor
in building their self-esteem, a higher number than those
who valued having a large number of friends or learning
new skills. What’s more, 60% within this age group cited
cosmetics and toiletries as important in building their
self-confidence – a higher number than those within the
18 – 24 age group.
Our industry’s contribution to self-esteem as we age was a
subject explored at our most recent Media Panel debate in
October. The premise of the event was that many people
can find growing older daunting or unsettling and this can
affect their sense of self-worth. Based on research,
experts recognise that taking care of our appearance can
have a hugely positive effect on our mental health and
self-esteem, and that taking an active interest in personal
appearance can help people experience ageing in a more
positive way. With this in mind, we invited independent
experts to examine the supporting role that skin science
can play as we grow older.
Dr Julian Mason, Consultant Old
Age Psychiatrist, Berkshire Healthcare
NHS Trust, described how the simple
act of caring for our skin makes a
positive contribution to our sense
of well-being. Other than our brains,
the skin is the only organ that we
regularly inspect to assess its quality, which demonstrates just
how important it is to us. Influenced by his daily work with
the elderly, Dr Mason noted the importance of making good
choices about our skin, because it has a significant bearing on
how we see ourselves, and how others see us. He suggested
that both the results of good skincare and the tactile process
of skincare itself play a relevant and important part in staying
mentally healthy as we grow older.
Online research among 2,069 UK adults aged 18+ was conducted by YouGov between 5-8 April 2012.
CTPA Annual Report 2012
74%
of female respondents and
49%
of men described cosmetics and
toiletries as important to them
for building their self-esteem.
Professor Mark Birch-Machin,
Professor of Molecular
Dermatology, Newcastle
Biomedicine, used a ‘Tower of
Damage’ example to set out the
importance of sunscreens in
supporting the ageing process.
He explained how sun damage builds up in layers
within the skin’s DNA so that even if our skin does
not show visible signs of sun exposure, the exposure
it has had is logged, leading to premature ageing
from this sustained damage.
Journalists who attended the event were also invited
to experience first-hand some of the cutting-edge
technologies used by our industry to develop products
that address the ageing process, in particular by
enhancing our understanding of the skin. Intrepid
volunteers from Stylist magazine, Mumsnet,
the Daily Mail and Daily Express, amongst others,
had their crow’s feet measured, their complexion
analysed and their hair health assessed and all still
expressed strong interest in when CTPA would be
holding its next Media Panel event!
The debate about self-esteem and body confidence
is wide-ranging and far reaching from the pursuit
of the ‘right weight’, to the idealised beauty of
magazines, to the role of celebrity and fashion in
the creation of the image of perfection. Our industry
already enjoys proven expertise in this debate, as our
Media Panel and research projects have demonstrated,
so it is vital that we continue to participate actively in
this conversation and understand where we can play
an even more positive role.
23
09
Look Good Feel Better: Our Story
Cathy was 35 when she received her cancer diagnosis. After the initial shock, the way her treatment might affect her physical
appearance weighed heavily on her mind. “I was being told I was facing a life-threatening illness, but inside I was as much
overwhelmed by the thought of losing my hair as I was by the illness itself”.
Undergoing chemotherapy was a struggle physically and emotionally. Cathy avoided mirrors as gradually she “lost her normal
self”. Even with the support of family and friends, she felt alone and isolated in the experience she was going through.
Cathy was told about a charity called Look Good Feel Better (LGFB) by her Macmillan counsellor and went to a free skincare and
make-up workshop at her local hospital. During the session expert volunteer beauty consultants took her and 11 other women
through a 12-step plan for skin care and make-up, using a gift bag of donated products for her to use and then enjoy at home.
Cathy found the experience a huge boost at a low point in her treatment. “Cancer can take away your self-confidence and
sense of identity. The workshop made me feel ‘normal’ for the first time in many months and I was surprised to find how much
laughter there was during the afternoon”.
A unique service
Cathy’s struggle in undergoing treatment is shared by
thousands of women. More than one in three people in
the UK will develop some form of cancer during their lifetime.
Essential medical work tackles prevention, treatment and
care. Look Good Feel Better’s unique offering was created
to complement this by specifically tackling the visible
side-effects of cancer treatment.
These side-effects – such as loss of hair, eyebrows and
eyelashes or changes in skin texture and sensitivity may seem insignificant in the face of treating a
life-threatening disease and can be overlooked by very
busy medical professionals. Yet we know that they can
have a significant impact on self-esteem and ultimately
the strength and determination to overcome the difficulties
of the treatment itself.
Responding to increasing demand
Executive Director, Sarahjane Robertson says: “LGFB has
come a long way in its 19 year history with 70 locations
across the UK and 25 countries worldwide. The charity was
set up by the cosmetic, toiletry and perfumery industry
and operates with the support of over 40 companies.
As the industry’s charity we have an ambitious goal to
reach 50% of women newly diagnosed with cancer.
We are determined to reach out and support more women,
of all ages, with all types of cancer”.
“The whole experience was outstanding. It’s not just about
a bit of make-up, it’s not vanity - it’s about control. It gives
women the strength to fight this horrible disease.”
Fiona, LGFB Beneficiary
24
“LGFB provides an opportunity for patients to
feel more confident in their appearance.
The vulnerability of being a cancer patient is
far more extensive than you realise until you’re
there. Being able to improve on that vulnerability
has a huge impact.”
Professor Hilary Thomas, Oncologist and LGFB Beneficiary
“I’ve never attended a workshop or support group
before, so felt it might not be for me, particularly
as I was very depressed at the time, but LGFB lifted
me out of my depression. It made me feel like a
woman again. I didn’t feel isolated anymore;
I felt less ‘branded’ and ugly.”
Lesley, LGFB Beneficiary
CTPA Annual Report 2012
The impact of Look Good Feel Better
To help achieve our goal we recently carried out research[1] to better understand why and how we have the impact we do.
This confirms much of what we’ve long known about the lasting and significant positive effect we have on the women we help.
LGFB gives women control: Offering
them something to look forward to
and enabling them to look and feel
more like their ‘normal’ selves.
LGFB boosts confidence & self-esteem:
Studies have shown that a positive
outlook is hugely beneficial - helping
patients to cope and continue with
their treatment.
LGFB creates a support network: It is
crucial for women to spend time with
others who understand what they are
going through. Our workshops are
supportive, informative and fun.
• Before a workshop only 10% of people feel confident in their appearance. Afterwards, this rises to 87%
• 96% of people said wearing make-up makes them feel more confident
• The effects are enduring – 3 months after attending a workshop, 96% still said they felt more confident
• 98% said it was good to meet other women undergoing treatment
LGFB will use these insights to build on our core workshop programme and also expand our reach through innovative new routes.
Building on our success
Our core service – the provision of free workshops –
continues to grow and demand is high. Just in the past year
we’ve launched at three new hospitals and have reached
over 95,000 people since our inception. Thousands of people
have also benefited from our Confidence Kit – a DVD and
booklet that women can use at home. We’re extending this
on our new website where we’re providing film clips of our
12-step programme.
This year we are developing some innovative pilot projects,
such as trialling new workshop formats in different locations.
We are working with partners, such as Macmillan Cancer
Support, and we’d love to hear from other organisations
with possible partnership ideas. We will use digital channels
to extend our reach, such as a new website, Patient Forums
on Facebook and trialling our ‘webinar’ online teaching format.
Increasing awareness
Last year we recruited our ‘LGFB Ambassadors’ - senior
individuals from our member companies who are increasing
awareness amongst their colleagues. In particular we thank
them for their commitment in driving ‘Feel Better Week’
culminating in ‘Feel Better Friday’ in May. This is now in its
second year and is gathering momentum. It consists of a
huge variety of fundraising and profile building activities.
We hope to see many more people wearing
our distinctive lipstick ‘kiss’ badge to show their support.
[1]
How you can support LGFB
• Find out what your own company does to support LGFB. Maybe you could become one of our Company Ambassadors
• Fundraise. Many of our supporters raise money through the year and particularly
during Feel Better Week in May
• Join our community. The success of our new website and social media platforms depend on people spreading the word
A lasting impact
Three months on from her workshop, Cathy uses the skincare
and make-up tips and still feels a boost to her confidence
which helps her face the world on a bad day. She keeps in
touch with two of the women she met at the workshop
and their support has been invaluable in coping with her
treatment. Cathy explains “I know make-up can’t provide
a cure for cancer but no-one should underestimate the
importance of feeling positive and I can’t stress enough the
difference it made to me. I’d like to thank all those involved”.
For more information visit www.lgfb.co.uk or email
info@lgfb.co.uk
LGFB Research conducted with 2000 LGFB Beneficiaries attending workshops throughout the UK in 2012-2013
25
10
Cosmetic Industry in Figures
The weather, too, appears to have left its mark on a number
of personal care categories. For example, with 5% fewer
sunshine hours in 2012 than 2011 and with 14% more
rainfall it is not surprising to see sun preparations again
having a difficult year (value sales down 3.5% vs 2011).
“The total value of the UK’s cosmetics market was static
in 2012 vs 2011.“ So notes Steve Jones of IRI in the special
collaborative report with Kantar Worldpanel for CTPA on
the GB market in 2012.
“The continuation of the tough external environment is
playing a significant role in this and with no expected
signs of improvement on the horizon we should expect
associated trends to continue during 2013.
Last year’s star performers, hair colorants and nail cosmetics,
have seen growth slow right down in 2012 (to -1.4% and
+1.8% respectively). Shampoo (+6.4%) and conditioners
(+7.0%) were the top performing sectors this year in value
terms. In both cases price increases and a reduction in the
depth of the average price promotion were the main drivers
of growth.
As consumer recession continues we can reasonably expect
a number of possible changes in shopper behaviour,
from trading down to buying less to save money or even
re-considering whether to buy into certain categories at all.
While 2012 was an undeniably difficult year for the industry
(and many others across FMCG) there were still a number
of significant new product launch successes from across
categories, and strong new product development that
brings real innovation will prove be a significant weapon
in attracting consumers and helping to stimulate renewed
growth in personal care categories.”
Cosmetics categories appear, overall, to have been affected
by the tough trading environment more than most other
Fast Moving Consumer Goods (FMCG) categories in volume
terms, perhaps owing to the relatively non-essential nature
of a large proportion of the categories. IRI has looked in detail
across cosmetics categories and finds that consumers are
indeed trading down to smaller pack sizes and that category
volume performance is generally worse where price inflation
is highest, a strong indication that macro issues are the driving
force behind the industry’s sluggish performance.
CTPA Category Estimates December 2012 (£000s)
Fragrance *
Fine Female Fragrance
Fine Male Fragrance
Mass Female Fragrance Mass Male Fragrance
Fine Unisex Fragrance
Mass Unisex Fragrance Dec ‘11
Dec ‘12
% Change
1,334,979 1,329,059 -0.4
736,651 407,838 96,400 66,154 25,067 2,869 720,116 420,435 86,642 73,422 26,290 2,154 -2.2
3.1
-10.1
11.0
4.9
-24.9
* includes gift packs/coffrets
Colour Cosmetics
Face
Lips Eyes
Nails
Gift Packs
26
1,329,211 1,312,740 -1.2
506,674 205,909 378,556 210,057 28,015 501,366 199,310 374,607 213,750 23,707 -1.0
-3.2
-1.0
1.8
-15.4
CTPA Annual Report 2012
£8,264m
Total value of the UK’s cosmetics market
(0% change from 2011)
CTPA Category Estimates December 2012 (£000s) continued
Skincare
Prestige Skincare Total inc Gift Packs
Face Care Non-medicated
Face Care Medicated
Face Care Male
Hand Care
Body Creams and Lotions
Baby Care Products
Lipsalves
Sun Preparations
Haircare
Shampoo
Hair Colorants inc Lightening
Conditioners
Hair Sprays and Setting Sprays
Hair Creams/Waxes and Gels
Settings Lotions and Mousses
Home Perms
Salons
Toiletries
Toothpaste
Depilatories
Foot Preparations
Deodorants/Antiperspirants
Shaving Soaps
Mouthwashes
Talcum Powder
Bath Additives
Shower and Body Wash
Liquid Soap
Toilet Soap
GRAND TOTAL
Dec ‘11
Dec ‘12
% Change
1,886,007
1,806,016
-4.2
428,048
774,596
76,077
73,386
45,735
188,846
18,518
45,672
235,129
463,554
711,715
71,489
67,567
43,262
156,810
19,339
45,437
226,844
8.3
-8.1
-6.0
-7.9
-5.4
-17.0
4.4
-0.5
-3.5
1,674,157
1,712,485
2.3
413,408
299,928
266,219
171,124
88,259
28,772
1,834
404,614
439,747
295,613
284,871
172,196
86,916
27,035
1,492
404,614
6.4
-1.4
7.0
0.6
-1.5
-6.0
-18.6
0.0
2,042,930
2,103,531
3.0
429,012
52,299
22,740
602,248
83,019
156,125
17,936
119,018
321,159
147,272
92,103
446,439
52,222
22,512
614,124
81,543
174,758
18,512
115,978
328,704
153,550
95,188
4.1
-0.1
-1.0
2.0
-1.8
11.9
3.2
-2.6
2.3
4.3
3.3
£8,267,283
£8,263,831
0.0
27
10 Cosmetic Industry in Figures
GB Market Statistics Overview 2012 v 2011
£000s £000s£Share£Share
% Change
Dec ‘11
Dec ‘12
Dec ‘11
Dec ‘12
Dec ‘12
Fragrances
Colour Cosmetics
Skincare
Haircare
Toiletries
Total
1,334,979 1,329,211 1,886,007 1,674,157 2,042,930 1,329,059 1,312,740 1,806,016
1,712,485 2,103,531 16.1
16.1
22.8
20.3
24.7
16.1
15.9
21.9
20.7
25.5
-0.4
-1.2
-4.2
2.3
3.0
£8,267,283
£8,263,831100.0100.0
Sector Share (%) of Category
Dec ’12 vs Dec ’11 by Value (rsp)
Sector Share (%) of Category
Dec ’12 vs Dec ’11 by Units
Sector Share (%) Dec ‘12
£8,263,831
Sector Share (%) Dec ‘12
2,606,508 units
F 2.5
C 8.7
F 16.1
T 25.5
S 15.5
C 15.9
T 53.3
H 20.7
H 20.1
S 21.9
28
Sector Share (%) Dec ‘11
£8,267,283
Sector Share (%) Dec ‘11
2,622,148 units
16.1 Fragrances
2.4
Fragrances
16.1 Colour Cosmetics
8.4
Colour Cosmetics
22.8 Skincare
16.1 Skincare
20.3 Haircare
20.2 Haircare
24.7 Toiletries
53.3 Toiletries
CTPA Annual Report 2012
Methodology & Data Sources
IRI market tracking data:
Census EPoS data from Asda, Boots, Iceland,
Morrisons, Sainsburys, Superdrug, Tesco,
Waitrose, Wilkinson, The Cooperative Group
(including Somerfield).
Sample EPoS data from Symbol Grocers, other
Coops, independents and chemists.
Other data representation (audit and estimation
methodology) from convenience stores, petrol
forecourts, chemists and other impulse outlets.
Kantar Worldpanel Purchasing data (Worldpanel)
Individual purchasing data from a panel of 30,000
households which for this report will cover other
GB outlets not mentioned above plus Aldi, Costco,
Holland & Barrett, Lidl, Marks & Spencer, Savers,
Bodyshop and other smaller outlets.
-0.4 Fragrances
-1.2 Colour Cosmetics
-4.2 Skincare
Haircare 2.3
Toiletries 3.0
Sector Year on Year % change by Value
Units
Kantar Beauty Panel
A panel of 15,000 individuals who record their
purchasing of fragrances, colour cosmetics and
skincare products across all relevant outlets
(including department stores, Bodyshop, Internet,
mail order and direct sales) via online data entry.
Fragrances 1.1
Report Definitions
Measures:
Value Sales = £ sold (in 000s)
% Chg = % change versus same time a year ago
Colour Cosmetics 2.4
Further Details
-4.6 Skincare
-1.4 Haircare
Toiletries 0.4
IRI
www.iriworldwide.co.uk
Kantar Worldpanel
www.kantarworldpanel.com
29
10 Cosmetic Industry in Figures
UK Global Trade in Cosmetics / Toilet & Liquid Soap 2012
(£ Sterling in millions - trade data)
Categories by import 2012 (2011) and largest market
2012
Perfumes
2011
Key trading partner
(% share of category)
623.8
588.4
France
39%
244.1m
1259.3
1240.4
France
22%
282.9m
Haircare
411.5
413.5
France
25%
102.6m
Oralcare
159.0
164.3
Poland
24%
38.2m
41.9
45.6
Germany
24%
10.1m
123.0
134.6
Germany
36%
44.1m
Bath preparations
69.9
66.7
Italy
39%
27.1m
Depilatories & other toiletries
52.7
49.2
France
19%
9.9m
Toilet soap
65.3
66.3
Germany
26%
16.8m
128.2
118.2
Germany
41%
52.9m
Beauty (skincare/decorative)
Men’s shaving
Deodorants & Antiperspirants
Liquid soap
0
200
400
600
800
1000
1200
2012 UK imports worldwide
£2934.8m / % share worldwide market
UK’s largest worldwide import markets
Key: Value year on year
Western Europe (exc EU 27)
97.7 / 3.3%
up
2012
(2011)
France
£697.3m
(£678.4m)
Germany
£450.1m
(£450.1m)
USA
£400.2m
(£386.8m)
Poland
£184.0m
(£190.4m)
Italy
£179.9m
(£182.0m)
China
£169.0m
(£155.1m)
Spain
£134.6m
(£119.2m)
Irish Republic
£112.6m
(£122.2m)
Belgium
£100.8m
(£106.4m)
£82.6m
(£87.8m)
down
North America
434.1 / 14.8%
Eastern Europe
(exc EU 27)
12.2 / 0.4%
European Union 27
2029.0 / 69.1%
Other America
7.5 / 0.3%
Middle East &
North Africa
28.9 / 1.0%
Netherlands
Sub Saharan Africa
13.9 / 0.5%
Asia & Oceania
311.5 / 10.6%
Imports 2012
European Union 27
Western Europe (exc EU 27)
Eastern Europe (exc EU 27)
North America
Other America
Middle East & North Africa
Sub Saharan Africa
Asia & Oceania
TOTAL
30
Perfumes
485.8
26.5
0.1
72.5
0.5
Beauty
747.7
52.0
0.2
261.8
0.5
Hair
315.1
1.3
2.8
71.2
0.6
Oral
122.7
4.8
0.0
9.1
3.9
Mens
34.8
0.9
0.0
4.8
0.0
Deos
110.7
0.5
2.6
3.0
0.0
Bath
54.2
0.2
0.3
0.7
0.0
Dep
31.4
3.1
0.2
3.9
0.0
Soap
34.7
5.6
0.1
2.2
1.9
Liquid Soap
91.8
2.7
6.1
4.9
0.0
5.1
0.1
33.2
5.2
12.5
179.4
7.3
0.7
12.5
6.5
0.3
11.8
0.2
0.0
1.1
2.0
0.0
4.1
0.3
0.0
14.2
0.3
0.3
13.5
1.0
0.0
19.9
0.9
0.0
21.8
623.8
1259.3
411.5
159.0
41.9
123.0
69.9
52.7
65.3
128.22
CTPA Annual Report 2012
Trade data sourced
from www.uktradeinfo.com
SITC Codes 553 (exc air fresheners) and
554 (toilet soap and liquid soap only)
*Balance of trade
Worldwide £61.4m / Extra EU £125.2m
Categories by export 2012 (2011) and largest market
2012
Perfumes
2011
Key trading partner
(% share of category)
574.9
529.5
Germany
41%
236.5m
1128.0
1113.1
Irish Rep
18%
208.6m
Haircare
291.7
299.1
Irish Rep
33%
97.6m
Oralcare
247.0
268.6
Germany
11%
26.8m
Men’s shaving
133.5
134.4
Russia
15%
19.6m
Deodorants & Antiperspirants
260.5
295.2
Netherlands
16%
41.5m
Bath preparations
57.4
56.0
Irish Rep
20%
11.5m
Depilatories & other toiletries
95.2
85.3
Nigeria
13%
12.1m
Toilet soap
84.2
74.1
USA
24%
20.3m
Liquid soap
123.8
127.1
Germany
24%
30.3m
Beauty (skincare/decorative)
0
200
400
600
800
1000
1200
2012 UK exports worldwide
£2996.2m / % share worldwide market
UK’s largest worldwide export markets
Key: Value year on year
Western Europe (exc EU 27)
147.1 / 4.9%
up
North America
224.3 / 7.5%
Eastern Europe
(exc EU 27)
102.3 / 3.4%
European Union 27
1965.1 / 65.6%
Other America
23.4 / 0.8%
Middle East &
North Africa
183.3 / 6.1%
Asia & Oceania
284.2 / 9.5%
2012
(2011)
Irish Republic
£464.6m
(£472.5m)
Germany
£457.2m
(£433.9m)
Belgium
£236.8m
(£259.2m)
USA
£202.9m
(£167.8m)
France
£150.2m
(£142.3m)
Netherlands
£119.9m
(£125m)
Italy
£99.5m
(£112.1m)
Poland
£96.8m
(£100.4m)
Spain
£88.5m
(£92.6m)
UAE
£84.4m
(£95.7m)
down
Sub Saharan Africa
66.5 / 2.2%
Exports 2012
European Union 27
Western Europe (exc EU 27)
Eastern Europe (exc EU 27)
North America
Other America
Middle East & North Africa
Sub Saharan Africa
Asia & Oceania
TOTAL
Perfumes
402.4
14.6
9.1
58.2
1.1
Beauty
696.3
82.8
42.8
89.9
6.8
Hair
214.8
12.6
4.5
16.3
0.3
Oral
165.1
10.3
0.4
0.9
10.2
Mens
78.8
2.6
25.3
12.6
0.4
Deos
215.2
12.2
14.3
1.3
0.7
Bath
40.5
1.2
1.0
4.9
0.6
Dep
31.0
2.3
1.1
10.1
1.3
Soap
39.8
4.3
2.3
21.9
1.7
Liquid Soap
81.3
4.3
1.6
8.1
0.3
40.8
5.0
43.7
60.3
9.6
139.5
13.9
7.1
22.2
36.7
5.8
17.5
4.5
2.2
7.1
4.8
6.0
6.0
1.9
1.8
5.5
9.8
25.2
14.4
5.6
2.5
6.1
4.9
1.2
22.1
574.9
1128.0
291.7
247.0
133.5
260.5
57.4
95.2
84.2
123.8
31
11
CTPA Members
Full members
Acheson & Acheson M
Albion Cosmetics (UK)
Alliance Boots
• Boots UK
• BCM M
Amway (UK)
Anglo Indian Trading
Arco England
Avlon Europe
Avon Cosmetics (UK)
• Liz Earle Beauty Co
Bayer
Beiersdorf UK
Brand Agency (London)
Broad Oak Toiletries M
Bronnley & Company, H M
Chanel
• Bourjois
Chattem (UK)
Church & Dwight UK
Colgate-Palmolive (UK)
Combe International
Cosmarida 2010
Cosmetics Laboratory
Coty UK
Darent Wax Company, The
DCS Manufacturing
DDD
• Dendron
• Fleet Laboratories M
• Trinity Scientific
Deb Group Company
Denman International
ET Browne (UK)
Elethea
Elizabeth Arden New York (UK)
Espa International (UK)
Estée Lauder Companies
• Aromaderme UK (Darphin)
• Aveda
• Clinique Laboratories
• Estée Lauder Cosmetics
• Jo Malone
• Make-up Art Cosmetics
FDD International
Federici Brands
32
Gerrard International
GlaxoSmithKline Consumer Healthcare
GOJO Industries-Europe
Guthy-Renker UK
Nails Inc
Neal’s Yard (Natural Remedies)
Nice-Pak International M
Novartis Consumer Health
H&I Toiletries
Hampshire Cosmetics M
HCT Europe
Henkel
Herb UK
Herbalife (UK)
HMC M
Hoyu
Orean Personal Care M
Original Additions (Beauty Products)
Inline Health and Beauty M
International Cosmetic Suppliers M
Irish Response Limited t/a Lifes2Good
John Gosnell & Company M
Johnson & Johnson
Kanebo Cosmetics
Kao (UK)
• KPSS
• Goldwell
• KMS
Keyline Brands
• Inecto
Kimberly-Clark Europe
Laleham Healthcare M
LF Beauty (UK) M
Linco Care M
L’Oréal (UK)
• PBL Europe
• Urban Decay Cosmetics Europe
Lornamead
Luster Products
LVMH Perfumes & Cosmetics
• Guerlain
• LVMH Fragrance Brands UK
• Nude Brands UK
• Parfums Christian Dior (UK)
Maclaren Europe
Mary Kay Cosmetics
Mavala (UK)
Meller Design Solutions M
Mentholatum Company, The
Mibelle M
Montagne Jeunesse
Morgan’s Pomade Company
Pacific World
Pangaea Laboratories
Pascalle
Periproducts
Pfizer
Procter & Gamble UK
PZ Cussons (UK)
• PZ Cussons Beauty LLP
• PZ Cussons Beauty Australia
• St Tropez Inc
Quantum Beauty Company
Reckitt Benckiser Healthcare (UK)
Retra Holdings
• Badgequo
Revlon International Corporation
Revolymer (UK)
Robert McBride M
Salon Success
S C Johnson
Shiseido UK Company
• Carita
• Decleor
Sleek Makeup
Solent International
Surefil Beauty Products M
Swallowfield M
• Aerosols International
• Cosmetics Plus
Unilever UK
Universal Products M
Vivalis Trading
• Constance Carroll
• Fade Out
• Jerome Russell
Yves Rocher (London)
CTPA Annual Report 2012
Associate members
Akzo Nobel Surface Chemistry H
Alba Science B
Ashland G H
Aspen Clinical Research B O
Aston Chemicals G H J
Ayton Global Research B
Azelis B C E G H I J L
Basildon Chemical Company E H
CMA (UK) F O
Connock, A & E (Perfumery &
Cosmetics) H I K L
Cornelius Group G H O
CPL Aromas I
Croda International G H
Cutest Systems B
Danisco (UK) H
Delphic HSE Solutions F
dR Cosmetic Regulations O
Firmenich UK I
Fragrance Oils (International) I
Givaudan UK I
Innospec H
Innovant Research F O
International Cosmetics & Chemical
Services F
Intertek Toxicology Assessment A B C
Kingfisher Colours J K L
Litmus Research B
Lonza Group G H
Rockwood Additives G H
Schulke & Mayr UK H
SGS United Kingdom D F O
Skinnovation B E O
Surfachem H
Thor Specialities (UK) A D H
D F O
Univar E G H J
ISCA UK D G H K L
ITS Testing B F
Vivimed Labs Europe J
Walt Disney Company, The O
Retail Associate members
Arcadia Group
Marks & Spencer
Next Retail
Sally Salon Services
Superdrug (A S Watson)
The Body Shop International
Waitrose/JLP
Key
Contract Laboratory Services
A Analytical B Claims Testing / Support C Stability Testing
D Microbiological Services E Formulation Creation
F Safety Assessment
Raw Materials
G General Ingredients H Speciality Ingredients
I Fragrance Ingredients / Mixtures J Colours
Thank you
Members’ support of the Association’s work is
fundamental to the success of the CTPA’s ability
to shape the environment in which companies
do business.
Visit www.ctpa.org.uk/members for the most
up-to-date list and links to members’ websites.
K Certified Organic Ingredients L Natural (Not Organic) Ingredients
Other Services
M Contract Manufacturer / Supplier N Packaging Supplier O Other
33
12
CTPA Committees
Sub-committees, Panels and
Working Groups
Commercial
Communications Advisory Group (CAG)
Kathy Rogerson (Chair)
Procter & Gamble UK
Caroline Almeida (Vice-chair)
Johnson & Johnson
Anna Bartle
Estée Lauder Companies
Enza Di Stasi
PZ Cussons Beauty
Julie Dillon
Colgate-Palmolive (UK)
Nicola Dykes
Unilever UK Home & Personal Care
Nicola Hastings
Henkel
Kari Kerr
L’Oréal (UK)
Fiona Larkin
Alliance Boots
Louise Terry The Body Shop International
REACH Working Group
Penny Schuler (Chair)
Kalima Alibhai
Iain Brunning
Elizabeth Colson
Sarah Henly
Dr Marie Kennedy
Chris Martin Mark Tarantino-Hind
Packaging Committee
Steve Paul (Chair)
PZ Cussons (UK)
Jim Thomas (Vice-chair)
Deb Group
Gill Baverstock
Avon Cosmetics (UK)
Melanie Bonvarlet
Reckitt Benckiser Healthcare
Pam Green
Alliance Boots
Melanie Keen
Revlon International
Dr Gillian Marsh
Procter & Gamble UK
Julie McManus
L’Oréal (UK)
Nashila Nourmamod
Reckitt Benckiser Healthcare
Dr Wazir Sohal
Sally Beauty
Tony Taylor
Unilever UK Home & Personal Care
Agnieskza Trzesicka Estée Lauder Companies (Whitman Laboratories)
Responsible Advertising Working Group (RAWG)
Anna Bartle
Estée Lauder Companies
Gill Baverstock
Avon Cosmetics (UK)
Steffi Bogart
Estée Lauder Companies
Nicola Dykes
Unilever UK
Paul Gaff
Chanel
Ian Marlow
Alliance Boots
Julie McManus
L’Oréal (UK)
Colleen O’Hare
Johnson & Johnson
Kathy Rogerson
Procter & Gamble UK
Dr Judy Woodford
Kao UK
The Body Shop International
Kimberly-Clark
Alliance Boots
Robert McBride
Avon Cosmetics (UK)
Elizabeth Arden (UK)
CMA (UK)
Revlon International
Scientific
Scientific Advisory Committee (SAC)
Dr Raniero De Stasio (Chair)
L’Oréal (UK)
Dr Marie Kennedy (Vice-chair)
Elizabeth Arden (UK)
Ana-Maria Boncu
Reckitt Benckiser Healthcare
Iain Brunning
Alliance Boots
Sue Butler
Schwarzkopf & Henkel
Anne Connet
CPL Aromas
Alison Cowan
PZ Cussons (UK)
Rhian Eckley
Unilever UK
Polly Falconer
Kimberly-Clark
June Graham
Robert McBride
Garry Ho
GlaxoSmithKline Consumer Healthcare
Dr John Hopkins
Innovant Research
Dr Amanda Long
Avon Cosmetics (UK)
Dave Preston
Colgate-Palmolive (UK)
Dr Gillian Marsh
Procter & Gamble UK
Mark Tarantino-Hind
Revlon International
Sue Wemyss
Estée Lauder Companies (Whitman Laboratories)
34
GMP Sub-committee
Dave Preston (Chair)
Colgate-Palmolive (UK)
Elizabeth Aspinall
Estée Lauder Companies (Whitman Laboratories)
Clare Clark
Schulke & Mayr UK
Mark Crawley
Laleham Healthcare
Brendan Marken
GlaxoSmithKline Consumer Healthcare
Stephen Rawling
GlaxoSmithKline Consumer Healthcare
Clare Stott
Unilever UK
Arthur Tinnion
Procter & Gamble UK
CTPA Annual Report 2012
A note to the reader
The lists below reflect the current membership of CTPA Committees, Sub-committees, Panels and Working Parties.
In addition to the above groups, ad-hoc task forces and panels are set up as necessary.
These currently include: Health & Safety Advisory Panel, Oral Care Combined Technical Toothwhitening Group, Risk Management Guideline Working Group.
The CTPA Secretariat maintains ‘contact lists’ of Members with special interests.
Scientific
Hair Preparations Sub-committee
Kathy Rogerson (Chair)
Procter & Gamble UK
Iain Brunning
Alliance Boots
Sue Butler
Schwarzkopf & Henkel
Dr Raniero De Stasio
L’Oréal (UK)
Michèle Elbaz
Shiseido
Ruth Fenwick
Alliance Boots
Chris Martin
CMA (UK)
Peter Matthewson
Procter & Gamble Technical Centres
Julie McManus
L’Oréal (UK)
Debra Redbourn
Keyline Brands
Mark Tarantino-Hind
Revlon International
Clare Want
Combe International
Sue Wemyss
Estée Lauder Companies (Whitman Laboratories)
Hair Salon Working Group
Julie McManus (Chair)
L’Oréal (UK)
Michelle Cole
Schwarzkopf & Henkel
Maggie Curry
National Hairdressers’ Federation
Dr Raniero De Stasio
L’Oréal (UK)
Peter Matthewson
Procter & Gamble Technical Centres
Julie McManus
L’Oréal (UK)
Shayne Meadows
Schwarzkopf & Henkel
Mike Patey
HSBA
Debra Redbourn
Salon Success
Kathy Rogerson
Procter & Gamble UK
Sue Wemyss Estée Lauder Companies (Whitman Laboratories)
Microbiological Sub-committee
Andy Brack (Chair)
PZ Cussons (UK)
Amanda Baila
Alliance Boots
Emma Braithwaite
Swallowfield
Tanya de Sa
Procter & Gamble UK
Chris Martin
CMA (UK)
Dave Preston
Colgate-Palmolive (UK)
Stephen Rawling
GlaxoSmithKline Consumer Healthcare
Dr Kenneth Seal
Thor Specialities (UK)
Jenny Trueman
LF Beauty (UK)
Sun Products Sub-committee
Julie McManus (Chair)
L’Oréal (UK)
Dr Jack Ferguson
Skinnovation
Dr Amanda Long
Avon Cosmetics (UK)
Dr Gillian Marsh
Procter & Gamble UK
Clare O’Connor
Alliance Boots
Debra Redbourn
Keyline Brands
Mike Salmon
LF Beauty (UK)
Sue Wemyss
Estée Lauder Companies (Whitman Laboratories)
Jenny Wild
Beiersdorf UK
Toxicology Advisory Panel (TAP)
International Committee
Stephen Kirk (Chair)
Alliance Boots
Chris Martin (Chair)
Revlon International
Elizabeth Colson
Robert McBride
Pamela Bloor
Unilever UK
Rhian Eckley
Unilever UK
Iain Brunning
Alliance Boots
Dr John Hopkins
Innovant Research
Stuart Elliott
Procter & Gamble UK
Dr Catherine Mahony
Procter & Gamble UK
Polly Falconer
Kimberley-Clark Europe
Mary Spurgeon
Unilever UK Home & Personal Care
Dr Marie Kennedy
Elizabeth Arden (UK)
Dr Amanda Long
Avon Cosmetics (UK)
Becky Milner
Reckitt Benckiser Healthcare
Herve Olivier
Espa International
Jane Pett
The Body Shop International
Debra Redbourn
Keyline Brands
Nia Roberts
Nice-Pak International
Sue Wemyss
Estée Lauder Companies (Whitman Laboratories)
35
13
CTPA and Members’ Representatives
to Cosmetics Europe
Board of Directors
Dr Chris Flower CTPA
Active Association Members (AAM)
Dr Chris Flower
CTPA
Strategic Project Teams (SPT)
What are they? A maximum of 5 temporary groups, created by the Board to manage the major issues and key priorities.
Task Force linked to SPT
Alternatives to Animal Testing
Dr Joanna Rowland
GlaxoSmithKline Consumer Healthcare
Sue Wemyss
Estée Lauder Companies (Whitman Laboratories)
AAT Core Group
Dr Chris Flower
CTPA
EU Cosmetics Regulation Recast
Dr Chris Flower (Vice-chair)
CTPA
Dr Marie Kennedy
Elizabeth Arden (UK)
Andrew Wilson
GlaxoSmithKline Consumer Healthcare
Graham Wilson
Procter & Gamble Technical Centres
TF Annex I
Dr John Hopkins
Stephen Kirk
Dr Joanna Rowland
Sarah Tozer
Dr Emma Meredith
Task Force Claims
Dr Chris Flower (Chair)
Dr Raniero De Stasio
Andrew Wilson
Innovant Research
Alliance Boots
GlaxoSmithKline Consumer Healthcare
Procter & Gamble Technical Centres
CTPA
CTPA
L’Oréal (UK)
GlaxoSmithKline Consumer Healthcare
Task Force Cosmetovigilance
Liz Colson
Beverley Harris
Stephen Kirk
Dr Emma Meredith
36
Robert McBride
Estée Lauder Companies
Alliance Boots
CTPA
International Convergence
Sue Wemyss
Estée Lauder Companies (Whitman Laboratories)
Graham Wilson
Procter & Gamble Technical Centres
Olivia Santoni
CTPA
Task Force India
Olivia Santoni (Chair)
CTPA
Dr Robert Polywka
Unilever UK Home & Personal Care
Sue Wemyss
Estée Lauder Companies (Whitman Laboratories)
Graham Wilson
Procter & Gamble Technical Centres
Task Force Russia
Olivia Santoni
CTPA
Self Regulation On Advertising
Dr Chris Flower (Vice-chair)
CTPA
Graham Wilson
Procter & Gamble Technical Centres
Sustainable Development
Paul Crawford
CTPA
Task Force Life Cycle Assessment / Carbon Footprint
Andrew Jenkins
Alliance Boots
CTPA Annual Report 2012
Core Competencies Committees (CCC)
What are they? Expert committees to provide support to Strategic Project Teams.
Task Force linked to CCC
Advocacy
Sophie Crousse
GlaxoSmithKline Consumer Healthcare
Internal & External Communication
Caroline Almeida
Debbie Hunter
Dr Chris Flower (Board mentor)
Task Force Integrated Communications
Debbie Hunter (Chair)
Legal
James Barnes
Johnson & Johnson
CTPA
CTPA
CTPA
Unilever
Scientific
Dr Raniero De Stasio
Dr Joanna Rowland
Dr Carl Westmoreland
Dr Emma Meredith
L’Oréal (UK)
GlaxoSmithKline Consumer Healthcare
Unilever UK Home & Personal Care
CTPA
Issues Management Group Endocrine Disruptors
Dr Raniero De Stasio (Chair)
L’Oréal (UK)
Matthew Dent
Unilever UK Home & Personal Care
Dr Emma Meredith
CTPA
Technical & Regulatory
Dr Raniero De Stasio
L’Oréal (UK)
Dr Marie Kennedy
Elizabeth Arden (UK)
Andrew Wilson
GlaxoSmithKline Consumer Healthcare
Paul Crawford
CTPA
Expert Teams (ET)
What are they? Expert teams appointed by the Board to manage specific technical fields that require a high level of expertise.
The Board can transform an ET into an SPT if the subject becomes a key priority.
Task Force linked to ET
Hair Preparations
Dr Kim Rich (Chair)
Sarah Henly
Dr Robert Polywka
Dr Emma Meredith
Procter & Gamble Technical Centres
Avon Cosmetics (UK)
Unilever UK Home & Personal Care
CTPA
Ingredients Defence
Dr Marie Kennedy
Elizabeth Arden (UK)
Dr Amanda Long
Avon Cosmetics (UK)
Dr Kim Rich
Procter & Gamble Technical Centres
Sue Wemyss
Estée Lauder Companies (Whitman Laboratories)
Dr Emma Meredith
CTPA
TF D4/D5
Paul Crawford
CTPA
Microbiological Protection of Products
Lorraine Caskie
Unilever UK Home & Personal Care
Dave Preston
Colgate-Palmolive (UK)
Nanotechnologies
Dr Amanda Long
Dr Joanna Rowland
Amanda Isom
Avon Cosmetics (UK)
GlaxoSmithKline Consumer Healthcare
CTPA
Natural/Organic Products
Graham Wilson (Vice-chair)
Procter & Gamble Technical Centres
Gill Baverstock
Avon Cosmetics (UK)
Dr Robert Polywka
Unilever UK Home & Personal Care
Sue Wemyss
Estée Lauder Companies (Whitman Laboratories)
Paul Crawford
CTPA
Oral Care
Andrew Wilson
Reach
Dr Marie Kennedy (Vice-chair)
Paul Crawford (Vice-chair)
Sarah Henly
GlaxoSmithKline Consumer Healthcare
Elizabeth Arden (UK)
CTPA
Avon Cosmetics (UK)
Sun Care Products
Dr Paul Matts
Dr Emma Meredith
Procter & Gamble Technical Centres
CTPA
Traces
Neil Bolton (Vice-chair)
Dr Amanda Long
Procter & Gamble Technical Centres
Avon Cosmetics (UK)
Triage
Olivia Santoni
CTPA
37
14
Directors’ Report and Financial Statements
14.1
The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Perfumery Association Limited
(Limited by Guarantee)
Directors’ Report
Year ended 31 December 2012
The directors present their report and the audited financial statements of the company no. 398046
for the year ended 31 December 2012. This report has been prepared in accordance with the special
provisions of Part 15 of the Companies Act 2006 relating to small companies.
Directors
The members of the Board are the directors of the company.
The current directors, and the directors who acted at any time
during the financial year, appear on page 4.
Principal activities and review of operations
The principal activities of the Association are to organise,
study, protect, promote and further the interests of the
cosmetic, toiletry and perfumery industry in the United
Kingdom. These remained unchanged during the year
under review and all the Association’s work came within
that general description. In carrying out this work the
Association involved itself deeply in the work of the European
cosmetic trade association, Cosmetics Europe (formerly known
as Colipa). It is the Association’s intention to continue to
operate within the same general framework.
The Association’s financial policy is to match income and
expenditure over a period of years, subject to the need to
maintain adequate working capital. Subscriptions for 2013
have been set at a level which takes into account the
financial position at 31 December 2012.
Risk Management
The Association has identified a number of risks including
a potential shortfall in income from member subscriptions,
an IT systems failure and/or security breach leading to a
break-down in the expected membership service levels,
a breach of UK/EU competition law by either our staff or
members whilst on Association business/premises and a
conflict of interest and/or related party transactions with
Board members. Internal controls have been developed to
reduce these risks including the alignment of budget with
membership renewal levels, the funding of an IT systems
business continuity programme, the highlighting of the need
for staff and members to conduct themselves according
to the CTPA’s Competition Guidelines which are re-issued,
highlighted and reviewed at appropriate times. These controls
are reviewed periodically by the Board of Directors. Regular
enquiry will be made of Board members to ensure there are
no conflicts of interest between CTPA and its Board members.
38
Financial Statements
The financial statements show a deficit for the year after
taxation of £10,568 (2011: £5,407 deficit) which,
together with the surplus brought forward of £521,842
results in a balance to be carried forward of £511,274.
Charitable contributions
The Association has continued to support the Look Good
Feel Better Programme in the UK by providing access to
meeting facilities and administrative support to the registered
charity Cosmetic, Toiletry & Perfumery Foundation (CTPF).
In 2012, the CTPA’s Director of Commercial Affairs also acted
as Company Secretary to the CTPF. No charge is made for
these services.
Going concern
The Association has adequate financial resources and is
well placed to manage the business risks. Our planning
process, including financial projections, has taken into
consideration the current economic climate and its
potential impact on the various sources of income and
planned expenditure. The directors have a reasonable
expectation that the Association has adequate resources
to continue in operational existence for the foreseeable
future. The directors believe that there are no material
uncertainties that call into doubt the Association’s ability
to continue. The accounts have therefore been prepared
on the basis that the Association is a going concern.
CTPA Annual Report 2012
Auditors
Insofar as each of the directors of the company at the date
of approval of this report is aware there is no relevant audit
information (information needed by the company’s auditors
in connection with preparing the audit report) of which the
company’s auditors are unaware. Each director has taken all
of the steps that he/she should have taken as a director in
order to make himself/herself aware of any relevant audit
information and to establish that the company’s auditors are
aware of that information.
Crowe Clark Whitehill LLP has expressed its willingness to
continue as auditor for the next financial year and a resolution
proposing their reappointment will be submitted to the
forthcoming Board Meeting.
By order of the Board
J Traylen, Secretary
26 March 2013
Statement of Directors’ Responsibilities
The directors are responsible for preparing
the Annual Report and the financial statements
in accordance with applicable law and United
Kingdom Generally Accepted Accounting
Practice.
Company law requires the directors to prepare
financial statements for each financial year which
give a true and fair view of the state of affairs
of the company at the end of the year and of the
surplus or deficit of the company for the period.
In preparing those financial statements the
directors are required to:
•select suitable accounting policies and then
apply them consistently;
•make judgements and estimates that are
reasonable and prudent;
•prepare the financial statements on the
going concern basis unless it is inappropriate
to assume that the company will continue
in business.
The directors are responsible for keeping proper
accounting records which disclose with
reasonable accuracy at any time the financial
position of the company and to enable them to
ensure that the financial statements comply
with the Companies Act 2006. The directors are
also responsible for safeguarding the assets of
the company and hence for taking reasonable
steps for the prevention and detection of fraud
or other irregularities.
The directors are responsible for the maintenance
and integrity of the corporate and financial
information included on the company’s website.
39
14 Directors’ Report and Financial Statements
Independent Auditor’s Report to the Members of
the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association.
We have audited the financial statements of the Cosmetic,
Toiletry and Perfumery Association for the year ended
31 December 2012 which comprise the Income and
Expenditure Account, the Balance Sheet and the related
notes numbered 1 to 12.
The financial reporting framework that has been applied
in their preparation is applicable law and United Kingdom
Accounting Standards (United Kingdom Generally
Accepted Accounting Practice).
This report is made solely to the company’s members, as a
body, in accordance with Chapter 3 of Part 16 of the
Companies Act 2006. Our audit work has been undertaken
so that we might state to the company’s members those
matters we are required to state to them in an auditor’s
report and for no other purpose. To the fullest extent
permitted by law, we do not accept or assume responsibility
to anyone other than the company and the company’s
members as a body, for our audit work, for this report,
or for the opinions we have formed.
Respective responsibilities of directors & auditors
As explained more fully in the Statement of Directors’
Responsibilities, the directors are responsible for the
preparation of the financial statements and for being
satisfied that they give a true and fair view. Our responsibility
is to audit the financial statements in accordance with
applicable law and International Standards on Auditing
(UK and Ireland). Those standards require us to comply with
the Auditing Practices Board’s Ethical Standards for Auditors.
Scope of the audit of the financial statements
An audit involves obtaining evidence about the amounts
and disclosures in the financial statements sufficient to give
reasonable assurance that the financial statements are free
from material misstatement, whether caused by fraud or
error. This includes an assessment of: whether the
accounting policies are appropriate to the company’s
circumstances and have been consistently applied and
adequately disclosed; the reasonableness of significant
accounting estimates made by the directors; and the overall
presentation of the financial statements.
In addition, we read all the financial and non-financial
information in the Directors’ Report to identify material
inconsistencies with the audited financial statements.
If we become aware of any apparent material misstatements
or inconsistencies we consider the implications for our report.
40
Opinion on financial statements
In our opinion, the financial statements:
• give a true and fair view of the state of the company’s
affairs as at 31 December 2012 and of its deficit for the
year then ended;
• have been properly prepared in accordance with United Kingdom Generally Accepted Accounting Practice; and
• have been prepared in accordance with the requirements
of the Companies Act 2006.
Opinion on other matter prescribed by the
Companies Act 2006
In our opinion the information given in the Directors’ Report
for the financial year for which the financial statements are
prepared is consistent with the financial statements.
Matters on which we are required to report
by exception
We have nothing to report in respect of the following matters
where the Companies Act 2006 requires us to report to you if,
in our opinion:
• adequate accounting records have not been kept, or returns adequate for our audit have not been received from branches not visited by us; or
• the financial statements are not in agreement with the
accounting records and returns; or
• certain disclosures of directors’ remuneration specified by law are not made; or
• we have not received all the information and explanations we require for our audit; or
• the directors were not entitled to prepare the financial
statements in accordance with the small companies regime and take advantage of the small companies exemption in preparing the directors report.
Tina Allison
Senior Statutory Auditor
For and on behalf of Crowe Clark Whitehill LLP
Statutory Auditor
London
10 April 2013
CTPA Annual Report 2012
14.2
Financial Statements
31 December 2012
Income and expenditure account for the year
ended 31 December 2012
2012)
£)
1,505,892)
2011)
£)
1,514,691)
(1,552,435)
(1,535,984)
(46,543)
(21,293)
Income from other member
activities and events
75,503)
20,370)
Associated direct expenses
(43,698)
(7,536)
31,805)
12,834)
Notes
These accounts are prepared in accordance
with the special provisions (of Part 15) of the
Companies Act 2006 relating to small entities.
Subscription income
3
Administrative expenses
The notes on pages 42 to 44 form part of
these statements.
Approved by the Board on 26 March 2013
and signed on its behalf:
Lady Jay (Sylvia) CBE
Chairman
Ged O’Shea
Vice-chairman
Operating deficit
4
(14,738)
(8,459)
Other income
7
5,212)
3,827)
(9,526)
(4,632)
(1,042)
(775)
Deficit for the year
(10,568)
(5,407)
Balance at 1 January 2012
Deficit for the year
521,842)
(10,568)
527,249)
(5,407)
Balance at 31 December 2012
511,274)
521,842)
Deficit before taxation
Taxation
Anand Rangaswamy
Vice-chairman
John Harold
Honorary Treasurer
8
There are no recognised gains or losses in either year other than as
disclosed above. The notes on pages 42 to 44 form part of these
financial statements.
Balance sheet at 31 December 2012
Notes
2012)
£)
2011)
£)
9
216,709)
221,719)
10
252,191)
250,000)
759,114)
272,359)
-)
1,143,345)
1,261,305)
1,415,704)
(966,740)
(1,115,581)
Net current assets
294,565)
300,122)
Total assets less current liabilities
511,274)
521,842)
Accumulated surplus
511,274)
521,842)
Fixed assets
Tangible assets
Current assets
Debtors
Short term deposits
Cash at bank and in hand
Creditors: amounts falling
due within one year
11
41
14 Directors’ Report and Financial Statements
14.3
Notes to the Financial Statements
31 December 2012
1. Status of company
The company was incorporated on 23 August 1945 and is
limited by the guarantee of its members. The guarantee of
each member is restricted to one pound sterling.
2. Accounting policies
A. Basis of preparation
The financial statements have been prepared under the
historical cost convention and in accordance with applicable
accounting standards. The financial statements have been
prepared on a going-concern basis as discussed in the
Directors’ report on page 38.
B. Depreciation of tangible fixed assets
The cost of tangible assets is written off on a straight
line basis over their expected useful lives as follows:
Office furniture - 10 years
Office fixtures - over the period of the lease on buildings
Office equipment - 3 to 5 years
The carrying values of tangible fixed assets are reviewed for
impairment if events or changes in circumstances indicate
the carrying value may not be recoverable. Office equipment
includes costs relating to computer equipment and website
development.
C. Subscription income
Subscription income is recognised when received and is
allocated to the financial year to which the subscription
relates. Subscriptions received in advance are recorded
as deferred income.
D. Foreign currencies
Transactions in foreign currencies for which forward
exchange contracts have been entered into as a hedge
against potential exchange rate movements are translated
at the relevant forward contract rates of exchange. All other
transactions in foreign currencies are translated into sterling
at the rate of exchange ruling at the date of the transaction.
Monetary assets and liabilities denominated in foreign
currencies are retranslated into sterling at the year end rate of
exchange. Exchange differences arising from this retranslation
are taken to the income and expenditure account.
E. Pension costs
The company provides defined contributions to personal
pensions. Contributions are charged in the income and
expenditure account as they become payable in accordance
with the rules of the scheme.
3. Subscription income
Subscription income comprises subscriptions receivable,
exclusive of VAT, in respect of continuing activities.
4. Operating loss
20122011
££
The operating loss is stated
after charging:
Depreciation of tangible fixed assets
Auditors’ remuneration
Rent of leasehold property
Office equipment lease rentals
42
120,61496,628
9,2008,900
75,000
75,000
7,8507,850
CTPA Annual Report 2012
5. Directors’ emoluments
None of the Board members received any remuneration for their services to the company during the year.
6. Staff costs
Wages and salaries
Social security costs
Other pension costs
The average monthly number of
employees during the year was
7. Other income
Bank and other interest receivable
2012
£
547,799
62,389
60,202
2011
£
541,623
66,841
56,503
670,390
664,967
10
10
2012
£
5,212
2011
£
3,827
8. Taxation
The tax charge for the year of £1,042 (2011: £775) represents UK corporation tax on the income
from bank and other interest of 20% for the period 1 January 2012 – 31 December 2012.
9. Tangible fixed assets
Office Furniture
and fittings
£
Cost
At 1 January 2012
98,333
Additions
14,352
Disposals
(3,192)
Office
Equipment
£
Total
£
506,525
101,252
(143,329)
604,858
115,604
(146,521)
109,493
464,448
573,941
Depreciation
At 1 January 2012
Charge for the year
Disposals
70,841
13,728
(3,192)
312,298
106,886
(143,329)
383,139
120,614
(146,521)
At 31 December 2012
81,377
275,855
357,232
Net Book Value
At 31 December 2012
28,116
188,593
216,709
At 31 December 2011
27,492
194,227
221,719
At 31 December 2012
43
14 Directors’ Report and Financial Statements
10. Debtors
20122011
££
Other debtors
165,609174,339
Prepayments and accrued income
86,58298,020
252,191272,359
11. Creditors: amounts falling due within one year
20122011
££
Trade creditors
Corporation tax
Deferred income (subscriptions) Accruals
Other taxes and social security
44,94693,164
1,042775
638,665712,325
10,92517,494
271,162291,823
966,7401,115,581
12. Financial commitments
The annual commitments under non-cancellable operating leases were as follows:
Lease expiring:
In one to two years In two to five years

44
Land and buildings
Office equipment
2012 2011 ££
2012 2011
££
75,000-
-75,000
-7,850 7,850
CTPA Annual Report 2012
14.4
Detailed income
and expenditure
2012))
£))
2011))
£))
1,467,975)
37,917)
1,480,774)
33,917)
1,505,892)
Other operating income
Surplus from seminars, publications, etc 31,805)
1,514,691)
A quick guide to income and expenditure.
Total income 2012/2011
2012
£ 1,541,867
2011
£ 1,530,577
Subscription income
Ordinary Members
Associate Members
Total expenditure 2012/2011
2012
£ 1,552,435
2011
£ 1,535,984
Interest receivable
Bank interest receivable
Other interest receivable
Less provision for corporation tax
Deficit for the years 2012/2011
2012
)Total income
12,834)
5,212)
0)
(1,042)
4,508)
(681)
(775)
4,170)
3,052)
1,541,867)
1,530,577)
-£ 10,568
2011
-£ 5,407
-20
0
20
Administrative expenses 2012
F
E
A
D
C
B
A.
Staff and other costs 47%
B.
Communications 6.3%
C.
Cosmetics Europe 12%
D.
Depreciation, disposal, exchange rate variance 7.8%
E.
Office premises & other services 8.9%
F.
Other expenditure 18%
Administrative expenses
Staff costs
Other personnel expenses & recruitment
Rent
Rates
Service charges
Heat, light and utilities
Telephone, communications, post
CTPA websites, IT network, database
Printing, journals, supplies
Office equipment leasing costs
UK travel, functions, meetings
and staff training
Overseas travel and expenses
Chairman’s expenses
Communications
Professional subscriptions
Professional services
Audit
Cosmetics Europe
- subscription
- SCAAT
- General Assembly
Office insurances and sundries
Higher education grants
Educational resources
Donations
Depreciation, disposal,
exchange rate variance
Bank charges
Adjustment - VAT creditor
Total expenditure
Deficit for the year
696,019)
35,637)
75,000)
26,592)
12,879)
11,291)
27,459)
106,061)
30,423)
7,850)
688,227)
8,165)
75,000)
40,948)
13,511)
11,429)
26,250)
112,222)
28,583)
7,850)
15,120)
27,573)
0)
97,388)
3,464)
31,000)
9,170)
11,803)
34,393)
0)
105,634)
3,527)
34,806)
8,900)
163,203)
19,401)
2,934)
11,694)
10,000)
8,144)
0)
166,716)
21,984)
3,294)
12,106)
10,000)
7,759)
0)
121,004)
3,129)
0)
99,515)
3,369)
(7)
1,522,435)
1,535,984)
(10,568)
(5,407)
45
15
Who’s Who at CTPA
Dr Christopher (Chris) Flower
Director-General
Responsible for:
Strategic direction,
Public voice of the Association,
External stakeholder engagement,
International relations.
Commercial and Communications
Debbie Hunter
Director of Commercial
Affairs
Julia Hewitt
Commercial Affairs Co-ordinator
& Database Manager
Responsible for:
Strategic communications,
Board management,
Membership relations and
services.
Eleanor O’Connor
Communications Co-ordinator
& PA to Director-General
Responsible for:
Membership services,
CTPA Newsletter,
CTPA events, Database,
Office administration.
Responsible for:
Media monitoring,
Communications,
PA to D-G.
Scientific
Dr Emma Meredith
Head of Scientific &
Technical Services
Responsible for:
Ingredient issues,
Hair products,
Sun products,
Safety assessment,
Cosmetovigilence.
Amanda Isom
Technical Affairs
Manager
Dr Lauren Sudlow
Scientific Information
Officer
Responsible for:
Website controller,
Member enquiries,
CMRs/PIF/CPNP,
Nanotechnology.
Regulatory
Administration
Paul Crawford
Head of Regulatory &
Environmental Services
Responsible for:
Regulatory, Labelling claims
and borderline,
Chemicals / REACH,
Environmental.
46
Responsible for:
Member enquiries,
Tracking ingredient issues,
Monitoring research,
Assisting with SAC and
Sun Products.
Olivia Santoni
Regulatory Affairs
Manager
Responsible for:
Regulatory enquiries,
International enquiries,
Labelling and packaging,
Transport of dangerous
goods.
Joyce Traylen
Company
Secretary
Responsible for:
Company management,
Accounts, Office systems,
Membership accounts,
Events, Publications.
CTPA Annual Report 2012
16
CTPA Membership
Experts on Call
“ Experienced, knowledgeable and highly
professional. The CTPA team are one of
my strongest supports in my field of
technical and regulatory work ”
CTPA member Head of Technical & Regulatory Compliance
Representing Members Worldwide
• All sized companies ranging from small to
medium, large and multi-national companies
supplying the UK market
• Members include manufacturers, distributors,
ingredient suppliers, contract laboratories,
contract manufacturers, retailers of own brand
• Representing around 80% by value of the
£8,264 million UK market supply
Working with Members
• Members’-only intranet providing a customised dashboard to go straight to the news you want
to see with Issue Tracking to alert you to news
as it is posted. Everyone in your company can
access this tool wherever they are in the world
• Cosmetics Basics – free members’ workshops
to help maximise your membership and meet
CTPA staff
Key objectives
• Work with all key stakeholders to provide
creative, pragmatic solutions to new issues
• Individual confidential advice provided to
members by experienced regulatory, scientific
and technical staff on anything from ingredient issues to best practice manufacturing guidance
• Intercept media issues with fast, robust rebuttal
• Positive pro-active communications to build confidence and trust in the industry’s safe,
effective products
• Promote the CTPA’s consumer website,
www.thefactsabout.co.uk, as the research
resource for journalists, consumers,
stakeholders and members
• Be seen as the leading trade association,
offering value for money to members
and setting the bar high
• Topic-specific seminars and committee meetings attended by member experts helping CTPA and members stay at the forefront of issue solving
• CTPA presentations at your company and at
external meetings
“To be the authoritative public voice of a vibrant and responsible
UK industry trusted to act responsibly for the consumer.”
CTPA mission statement
Design Wybo Haas (UK) Limited, +44 (0)1483 890091 | Printed by Cedar Group, +44 (0) 1794 525020, www.cedargroup.uk.com
47
The Cosmetic Toiletry & Perfumery Association Limited
Josaron House
5-7 John Princes Street
London
W1G 0JN
Tel:
+44 (0)20 7491 8891
Fax:
+44 (0)20 7493 8061
Web:www.ctpa.org.uk
Email:info@ctpa.org.uk
Visit our consumer website at
www.thefactsabout.co.uk
ctpa.org.uk