NO FEAR:
HOW TO FORMULATE HAIR COLOR
Self-Training Guide for Formulating Color
No Fear: How to Formulate Hair Color
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Table of Contents
Introduction…………………………………………….3
Section 1: The Level System: What is it?..................…4
Section 2: Tonal Value…………………………………4
Section 3: The Color Wheel: It’s the Law…………….5
Keep it simple rules………..……..…………………………..6
Section 4: What is the DRP……………………………7
Section 5: Hair Texture………………………………..8
Section 6: Color Formulation………………………….9
Example………………..……..………….……………..…….9
Explanation of example……………………..……….…..….10
Practice Scenario……………………………………….11
Post-Test………………………….……………………..13
Appendix
Answers to practice scenario…..………………………….….14
Answers to the post-test………………………..……….…….14
No Fear: How to Formulate Hair Color
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No Fear Hair Color
Introduction
The most crucial part of completing a hair color service is the
consultation, and then using the information to formulate the
correct color for the client. If you follow the steps carefully, you
will understand that hair color skills rely on science, not guess
work. This lesson will take the fear out of formulating hair color
for clients. Given a client’s information, an individual will be able
to formulate hair color using a level chart, dominating remaining
pigment chart (DRP), and a color wheel. A post-test will follow to
evaluate what you have learned.
The steps will include:
1. Define the level system and be able to identify how the
numbers 1-10 relate to hair color.
2. Identify the tonal value of hair color with a letter that
represents the desired finished color. Example: A=Ash,
G=gold, N=Neutral, R=Red
3. List the primary, secondary, and complementary colors
using a color wheel as a reference.
4. Identify what DRP is in hair color, using a reference chart.
5. Identify hair texture, fine, medium, and coarse.
6. Use the information from sections 1-5 to formulate a
client’s hair color. Use the example to complete the
practice scenario.
No Fear: How to Formulate Hair Color
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The Level System…….What is it?
The level system assigns a number for measuring dark to light,
without regard to tonal value. The number 1-10 represents level
measures. Think of the level system as a ladder. Visualize the first
step as the color black and the 10th step as a pale blond color. Level
1 is black, levels 2-6 is brown, and levels 7-10 is blond.
2.
Tonal Value is identified with a letter, usually placed
beside the level number. The most common tonal colors are
Neutral, Red, Ash, or Gold.
Example: 10N means level 10 Neutral; 9G means level 9 Gold
tones.
No Fear: How to Formulate Hair Color
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The Color Wheel: It is the Law
Understanding color is as easy as knowing the Law of Color and
relating it to addition and subtraction. Using the color wheel, you
will need to know where to place the color in the correct category.
a. Primary colors are red, yellow, and blue
b. Secondary colors are primary colors that are mixed
together, orange, blue, and violet.
c. Complementary colors are found opposite each other on the
color wheel- Orange-blue, yellow-violet, green-red. When
you mix the complementary colors together, they will
neutralize each other.
No Fear: How to Formulate Hair Color
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Keep it Simple Rules:
The three primaries, when mixed in unequal portions, make
brown. If there is more yellow than red or blue, the brown will be
light. If there is more red than the other two primaries, the brown
will be warm brown. In addition, if there is more blue that yellow
or red, the brown will be dark and cooler looking.
Complementary colors turn a brown shade when mixed. When
two complementary colors are mixed, they create the presence of
the three primaries in uneven amounts. Example: Yellow mixed
with violet will make a pale brown because yellow, the stronger
color, will dominate the formula. Violet is made from red and blue.
When you mix yellow with violet, a shade of brown is achieved.
Mixing opposites on the color wheel always results in a “browning
out” effect. Below is an example of mixing primary colors.
No Fear: How to Formulate Hair Color
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What is the DRP?
Remember, warmth is released when hair lightens. Red and
yellow pigment will dominate because blue is the first color
pigment to leave the hair during the lightening process. DRP is
dominant remaining pigment.
Using the two charts, identify the level a client desires.
Compare the level viewed by the human eye, to the DRP level seen
under a microscope. If the client’s desired level requires warm
tones, you will enhance, by using the red or yellow tones. If the
client’s desired level is neutral, you will use a cool base tone to
neutralize the warm tones that appear with lightening the hair.
The level chart with DRP
Leve1: Black……………….Blue
Level 2: Very Dk Brown….Blue/violet
Level 3: Deep Brown/red….Violet
Level 4: Deep Auburn……..Violet/Red
Level 5: Red/Orange……….Red
Level 6: Orange………….....Orange/Red
Level 7: Brassy Orange…....Orange
Level 8 Gold……………….Yellow/Orange
Level 9: Yellow……………Yellow
Level 10: Pale Yellow……..Pale Yellow
No Fear: How to Formulate Hair Color
5.
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Hair Texture
Hair texture is the thickness of the individual hair strand. Large,
medium, and small diameter hair strands translate into coarse,
medium, and fine hair textures. Be careful not to confuse texture
with density, which is the amount of hairs per square inch of the
scalp. A person can have thin hair that is medium texture.
The pigment or melanin (color) found in hair is distributed
according to the texture. Fine hair is grouped tighter, takes color
faster, and can look darker. Coarse hair is a larger size texture; the
melanin grouped loosely, and can take longer to process. Medium
textured hair is average. When you look at a diagram of the three
hair textures with the melanin placement, think of a chocolate chip
cookie, each cookie having various amounts of chocolate chips
placed throughout.
No Fear: How to Formulate Hair Color
6.
Color Formulation
To be able to determine color formulation and effectively color
the hair, begin by answering the following questions?
a. What level of color is the client’s hair?
b. What level of color does that client desire?
c. What shade or color does that client prefer?
(example: red, ash, neutral, or gold)
d. What base color will neutralize or enhance the client’s
color choice?
e. Does the client have fine, medium, or coarse hair?
Once these questions have been answered, select the color level
with the proper base color and the level choice is correct for
formulating.
Example:
Consider the following example, for lifting the natural hair color
using the level system:
Client’s preferred color is a level 7.
Client’s natural color is a level 4.
Client’s texture is medium.
Client does not want to enhance the warm tones.
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No Fear: How to Formulate Hair Color
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Subtract the natural color level from the level the client wishes to
achieve.
Add the difference to the preferred color level. This will give you
the proper color level to achieve the desired results:
Preferred level of color
Natural level of color (subtract)
Difference
Preferred level of color
Difference (add)
Level to use
Level 7 Blond
- Level 4 Brown
= 3 Levels
Level 7 Blond
+ 3 Levels
= Level 10 Blond
The level of color to be used is a level 10 blond with a blue
base. The base color must be blue, or the orange (DRP) will
show through and be too warm.
Explanation
The client is a level 4 brown and wants to be a level 7 blond.
The difference between the natural level of color (where the
client is) and the desired level of color (where the client
wants to be) is the three levels. If you use a level 7 color will
the desired results be achieved?
No! One must use a color that will account for the difference
between the client’s natural level and the client’s preferred
level. A level 10 color is the correct choice, with the
appropriate base color. However, using a level 10, which
contains only pale yellow dyes, will not keep the orange in a
level 7 from showing through. The results will be brassy. The
medium texture does not change the formula.
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Practice Scenario:
Consider the information learned and formulate the color to use
on this client. Provide an explanation for the color choice.
Client’s preferred color is a level 8 blond.
Client’s natural color is a level 6 brown.
Client’s texture is medium.
Client wants to be a warm red color.
Preferred level of color
Natural level of color (subtract)
Difference
Preferred level of color
Difference (add)
Level to use
Level ______
- Level ______
= ____ Levels
Level -_____
+
Levels
= Level _____
Explanation:___________________________________________
______________________________________________________
______________________________________________________
______________________________________________________
______________________________________________________
______________________________________________________
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Now with these steps, you will be able to formulate hair color,
using a level chart, dominating remaining pigment chart (DRP),
and a color wheel. Remember that this is not a guessing game; the
client’s information used to predict the desired hair color. Using
this information an individual can make practice scenarios and
apply the information learned. With practice, the formulation
process will become easier. The post-test will follow to see the
information learned identifying the client’s information.
Grade your practice scenario and post-test with the provided
answer key.
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Post-Test
Fill in the blanks below:
1. _________________ is the numerical system of judging color in stages,
or numbers, one level of being a measure of light or dark in the hair.
2. In the tonal value of hair color, what does each letter represent?
A=________, N=_______________, G=____________, R=___________
3. List three primary color: ___________, ___________, ___________
4. List three secondary color: _________, ____________, ___________
5. List the three complementary pairs: ______________, ___________,
__________________
6. What happens when you mix complementary colors together? _________
________________________________________________________
7. What does DRP represent in hair coloring? ________________________
______________________________________________.
8. List the three-hair textures ___________, _____________, ___________
9. Explain how hair texture effects hair color?________________________
__________________________________________________________
No Fear: How to Formulate Hair Color
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Appendix
Answer to Practice Scenario:
Preferred level
Natural level
Difference
Preferred
Difference is
Level to use
8
6
2
8
2
10
Explanation: The client is a level 6 brown and wants to be a level 8 red.
The difference between the natural level of color (where the client is) and
the desired level of color (where the client wants to be) is the two levels. If
one uses a level 8 color, will the desired results be achieved?
No! A color that will account for the difference between the client’s
natural level and the client’s preferred level.
A level 10 color is the correct choice, with the appropriate base color.
Since you are lightening the client's hair, the warm tones will appear. Select
a level 10 with a warm red base. The medium texture does not change the
formula.
Answer Key to Post-test
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Level System
Ash, Neutral, Gold, Red
Red, yellow, blue
Green, orange, violet
Blue-orange, violet-yellow, green-red
There will be a browning out effect; the mixed colors will
neutralize each other.
7. Dominating Remaining Pigment
8. Fine, medium, coarse
9. The amount of time will vary with each texture