HONDURAS JOURNAL
JEREMY CRIM
MONDAY, JANUARY 11
It’s the first day of class and I have trouble getting out of bed at seven o’clock for
this is the second earliest I have gotten up in a month. The excitement however
draws me out of bed and the shower. I know this class will be one of my
favorites. I arrive at class a few minutes early and ready to beginning the new
and exciting semester. The first class proves to be a quick overview of the
course with introductions to key faculty members and their expectations of the
students for the course. I knew this class would not be easy but now for the first
time I get a dose of the work expected from us, and like I thought it’s not going to
be easy. It should be very interesting and fun however and I expect this class to
help me grow as a person. There was one great incentive for coming to class
this morning, our $500 dollar scholarships were awarded, so now I’m off to the
bank.
WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 13
Class 2: I was transported back in time in this lecture, way back in time that is, to
around 10,000 B.C. when the first documentation of settlers was recorded in
what is today know as Honduras. Like almost all early inhabitants of this great
earth these people were of the hunting and gathering clans. As time passed and
cultivation of the land was coming into practice (about 6,000 B.C.) more
inhabitants were settling and remaining to tend their crops. For many years life
preceded slowly. I assume many were content, now able to settle in small
villages raising families and having time for leisurely pleasures. Around 100 A.D.
one of the greatest civilizations ever to be established in the Americas, the
Mayan Empire came to power. In 1502 Columbus so called discovered the “New
World” which would drastically change the indigenous way of life forever. What a
Wonderful world, but whose is to say what things would be like today if these
events would not have happened, for I guess I believe all things happen for a
reason
WEDNESDAY, MARCH 10, 1999
At six o’clock in the evening I finished packing the last of my things into my suite
case and backpack, double checked everything again; money, passport, clothes,
Etc. Good I have everything. I call my parents before I leave to tell them good
bye and that I love them. Unfortunately my dad has not made it home yet so I
don’t get to talk to him before I leave but my mom is. I tell her I love her and she
says she loves me and I know she means it. “Do you have everything you need”
she says. “Yes Mom” I say. She can’t help but worry about me. I talk with her
for about ten minutes then say good bye. It’s now about six twenty and I make a
final sweep throughout the house to make sure I have packed everything, turned
the lights off, and closed the windows. I grab my bags and am out the door at six
thirty. The weather is nice but a little on the cool side. The sun is just beginning
to set and I shall enjoy my one-mile walk to Ag Hall where we will meet at seven
o’clock. Half way to Ag Hall my bags begin to get heavy. It is only about six fortyfive so I decide to rest in front of the Edmond Low Library. I set down and over
look the grass lawn and formal brick garden and take a moment to reflect on
what is about to happen. The sun is sinking into the horizon and the once cool
breeze has now become quite chilly. I listen to the birds and the wind as a smile
crosses my face I have been waiting all semester for this and now it’s here. I
pickup my bags and continue my walk, it’s only about five hundred meters more.
I arrive at Ag Hall about five till seven. My arm aching I drop my bags in the
hallway, take a seat and wait for the other students to arrive. Thirteen students
will make this journey; I will now take the liberty to list their names, as many as I
can anyway. Jeremy Crim, Chris Nickel, Mary Webb, Nathan Johndrow, Rosa
Abbott, Todd Burton, Matt Ringer, Charles Gosset, Trace Smith, Clayton Rakes,
Veronica Keithley, Sandra, and Jason both of which I don’t know their last
names. We would be accompanied by four members of faculty and staff: Dr
Thomas Kuzmic (El Jefe) Dr Steven Hallgren, Dr Ed Miller and Dr Jim Osborne.
In Houston we will be met by Dr Robert Lowery our industry representative. By
seven fifteen every one has arrived and every one seems excited. In the
basement of Ag Hall, the forestry dept., we practice our first dry run of cultural
night, which will be held later in the week at ESNACIFOR. We will sing two
songs Home on the Range and Take Me Out To the Ball Game. We finally load
into the vans around seven thirty and are bound for Tulsa. In Tulsa we arrive at
the Laquinta Inn, only about ten minutes form the airport. My roommate, Charles
“Carlito” Gossett and I check into our room. From the very beginning I knew I
would like him and was glad we were put together. We wasted no time and
began talking with one another since we really didn’t know any thing about each
other. We decided to inaugurate the trip with a six pack and went to bead fairly
early since we had to get up
THURSDAY, MARCH 11
Three thirty comes awful early no matter what day it is but luckily this day was
special and it gave me determination and drive to get up. At three thirty the
sound of the alarm clock goes off and my eyes slowly open to the dark room
being perpetrated by the artificial hallway lights. I stumble out of bed and
clumsily make my way through the darkness to the bathroom. With half closed
eyes I turn the shower on and wait for the hot water. I step into the shower and I
am slowly awakened as the water hits my skin. My body starts to function, my
eyes widen, and I start to wash my hair. With the shower out of the way I am
now seventy-five percent awake. I brew the complementary coffee but then
decide at three forty-five its even to early to drink coffee and with a growl my
stomach agrees. I work my way to the lobby and wait for everyone else to arrive.
Around four o’clock or so everyone has made it to the lobby and surprisingly
seem pretty much awake. Then I think to myself it’s not that surprising if
everyone is as excited as I am. We then all load into the vans and arrive at the
Tulsa airport around four twenty after a ten minute ride. Just as Dr. Kuzmic
wanted we are the first ones at the air port terminal and the first in line at the
Continental station. Very soon however a few other groups who had the same
idea followed us. Everyone was checked in by five o’clock and we made our way
to the loading gate. At the gate a few interesting things happened that gave me
a feeling that this would be a good trip. Some guy needs twenty-five cents to
make a phone call and Dr. Hallgren gave it to him. Then this guy gave him a CD
and autographed it for him. A group medical group traveling with us then came
and thanked us for traveling lightly because they were able to bring all of their
supplies as they and the Doctors conversed until the flight boarded. On the
plane I had seat 14C, an isle seat setting next to Sandy and Rosa with Charles to
my left on the other isle. It was about an hour flight to Houston where we would
have a two-hour layover. This flight was one of the roughest I have ever been
on. I was glad it was only an hour. In Houston we had time to eat breakfast.
Charles, Clayton, and I set down at the bar at Bayou City and Ordered breakfast,
but not before one of the rudest ladies I have ever seen acted like a total bitch
and threw a fit so we let her order before us. She ordered two Miller Lights and
one Bloody Mary. It was only about seven thirty in the morning and man did this
lady have problems. I talked with her for a few moments. She had just been to
visit her mother-in-law who was dying of cancer. She said she would probably
be back in a couple of months for her funeral, sad story. We got our breakfast
and I think all three of us would agree that it was excellent. The plane ride from
Houston to Tegucigalpa is approximately two hours and thirty-five minutes. This
ride was pretty rough also and the landing had several people pressed against
their seats with their eyes closed. The runway at Toncontin is only eight hundred
meters and this resulted in an abrupt slam on the brakes when we landed which
almost sent me into the next seat in front of me. We arrived around twelve
twenty-six and deplaned outside. The weather was nice. Sun shine a slight
breeze and the humidity was not too high yet. We were ushered to the customs
gate where I would get my first stamps in my passport booklet. Here we would
meet Fernando Juarez (El Jefe de Departamento de Capacitacion Forestal of
ESNACIFOR) who would prove to be a lifesaver at the airport. The airport was
very confusing and seemed to have no order. With Fernando’s help were did not
even have to go through inspection and were able to walk right out the door.
Outside the airport a mass of people stood waiting for loved ones, ready to carry
a gringos bag in exchange for some money, of just hanging out. I made it to the
bus rather unmolested. Our first stop would be the COHDEFOR(Corporacion
Hondurena de Desarrollo Forestal) office. We had to drive across Tegucigalpa to
get there and as I expected just like in every other foreign country I have ever
been in the traffic was crazy. At COHDEFOR we were met by Atilio Ortiz, who
would give use our first presentation. I was extremely impressed with his
knowledge over the subject of the Honduran forests. He was able to answer all
questions that were thrown at him and I believe to a satisfactory nature. I
suspect many of the students could have obtained all the information they need
for their paper in this one sitting. This presentation lasted roughly two hours.
Around four o’clock we would depart for Valle de Angeles which would be about
an hours drive away.
The drive to the Valle is very nice mostly through pine forests. One thing that I
especially like is the bromeliads and Spanish moss growing from the pine trees
which is very unusually. Along the dive I get to see many compesinos walking
along the road, many carrying bundles of firewood upon their backs and many
barefoot children just walking the road. I see two beautiful nurseries along the
way with all kinds of tropical plants for sale and I think this would be a wonderful
job, something that I would truly like to do. I wonder if they make any money.
We arrive at Posada del Angle our lodging for two nights in the very small and
quaint village of Valle de Angeles. Our hotel has a beautiful courtyard with a
swimming pool, a nice balcony for the upstairs rooms and wonderful begonias
surrounding the courtyard. The rooms are very simple consisting of four twin
size beds and a bathroom. The floors are cement and we have a small thirteeninch TV. I like the room very much. We are advised to use the water sparingly in
the toilets and the shower. At six thirty we assemble in the courtyard and wait for
dinner. For dinner we are served chicken and I automatically make friends when
I offer my chicken up for grabs, which was torn to pieces in a matter of seconds
each person at the table taking a little bit. After dinner we get up enough
courage to ask for a cerveza and our waiter Hector Argueta is more than willing
to comply. After dinner we head over to Rudy’s Tavern where we are served all
the appetizers we can handle and more cervezas. Here I have my first cigar at a
price of fifty lempiras. About four of five of the group stay here until well after
midnight drinking and talking until we decide its time for bed. On our way back to
the hotel some rowdy villagers in the streets holler out to us, venga, just as we
enter the hotel. We talk for a little while longer on the balcony and then retire to
bed for we have to get up early tomorrow. Six o’clock and then a hike in the
cloud forest. My first day in Honduras is an excellent one.
FRIDAY, MARCH 12
Cock a doodle Doo! I always thought that roosters were supposed to crow when
the sun was coming up. Obviously this roosters biological clock missed a few
ticks somewhere. Around four o’clock in the morning I am awakened by the
crowing of a rooster, who will plaque me the rest of the night until six o’clock, two
hours later. At six o’clock I slumber out of my half waking sleep and place my
feet of the cold cement floor and head towards the bathroom. Charles takes the
first shower, as I decide to wait until after breakfast. It is a beautiful clear
morning. The Sun is out the birds are singing and I climb the stairs to take a
picture of the grounds of the Hotel Posada del Angel. At six-thirty the doors to
the restaurant are opened and most of the group stumbles in. A majority of the
students are talking of their premature awakenment by nature’s alarm clock. For
desayuno we are served a cold cereal first as all the students look around and
ask with their eyes is this it. Fortunately it wasn’t and pancakes and other things
were brought out. To drink was rich and dark Honduran Coffee and OJ. After
breakfast I went to take a shower and the water was so hot I could hardly stand
it. We departed form the hotel and had about a thirty minute bus ride to Parque
Nacional La Tigra. The drive was absolutely beautiful as we steadily climbed the
Honduran landscape and watched the vegetation change from pine forest and
then eventually to the cloud forest that would be our final destination. Just
outside the park we witnessed a town that had suffered severe damage from
Mitch. The only road to the park was a narrow dirt road so we had to split up in
to groups and be shuttled by truck for about the last five miles. I opted for the
second group to give me a little more time to enjoy my surroundings. Clayton,
Chris, and I decided we would start walking up the road and catch the truck
whenever it came back down. I am very glad I did this because it gave me a
change to really view the Honduran landscape. A very elderly woman was
walking down the mountain carrying a large load of wood on he shoulders with a
huge smile on her face and as she passed shouted the words arriba, arriba at the
time I didn’t know what that meant so I just smiled back. After walking about a
half a mile the truck came back and we were shuttled to meet the others at the
visitors center of La Tigra. I learned the visitors center was also a dorm when
visitors could stay. I would love the stay here it would be such a wonderful
getaway from everything and you have the cloud forest as your back yard. The
AMITIGRA program was very informative and I enjoyed trying to decipher what
the speaker was saying before it was translated. I was very disturbed however
by the problems that the national parks of Honduras face and it seems there is
no easy solution to their problems. The hike through the cloud forest was
unbelievably beautiful except much drier than I expected but I guess I should
have because it is the dry season. I can now begin to feel the Honduran heat as
we begin to make our accent under a cloudless sky. My attention is captivated
for there is something different and beautiful to look at everywhere you turn. It
was interesting to find out that this National Park had been cut over at least once
maybe more when the mining days were in full go. This was one of the first
times I can remember that the professors were not able to answer some
questions about certain species, because there is literally hundreds of
thousands. The hike proceeds and I begin to get a little fatigued as well as the
rest of the group, to hike has turned out to be farther than planned. After an
excellent morning hike we finally stop for lunch near the top of a mountain. After
about a thirty to forty five minute lunch break and rest we pack up and begin to
make our descent to the other side of the park. The way down was much easier
on the legs and the heavy overgrowth of trees made for a nice shaded
understory. The second half of the hike is much wetter is seems and I wish I
could have had all day to just set and listen to the sounds of the forest and gaze
at the flora of the landscape. Our guide heard a Quetzel but because of the
noise of the group we were not able to see it. At the end of the hike my legs are
tired and it feels good to set down. Fernando it waiting for us with cantaloupes
and watermelons for our enjoyment. I usually don’t like cantaloupes but these
were some of the best ones I have ever tasted. After a brief rest in the shade we
pile on the bus and pick up an extra passenger, Amilio, who works for AMITIGRA
and is going to show us agriculture and agroforestry practices in the buffer zone
of the park. Amilio is very educated in the practices of good agriculture and tell
us of his troubles of trying to convert many compesinos to use more sustainable
practices. He shows us examples of agriculture being practiced on very steep
cliffs with row running parallel to the slope and not terracing. Finally after viewing
several inadequate plots Amilio takes us to his brother land where he has show
him more sustainable practices. The issue of landowner ship is addressed
somewhat here and it seems that almost no one really owns the land they just
have the rights to it. This is a very confusing concept one that I do not entirely
understand. Finally we are taken to the last farm before we will head back to the
hotel and this place was heaven on earth. It was a blackberry farm on top of a
ridge that overlooked and incredible view. We were allowed to sample the
blackberries, which the owner adorable young daughters went around picking the
best ones for us to taste. They were fantastic! I truly believe that I could be
happy if I could trade places with this farmer. He also had several citrus trees,
which gave off the most fragrant smell that it made my knees weak.
Unfortunately we had to leave to go back to the hotel for dinner. On the drive
back I was lucky enough to spot a Scarlet Macaw perched in a tree and got a
picture of it. It’s six o’clock or so when we arrive back at the hotel and I am
exhausted and hungry. At six thirty we eat dinner and once again I gave mine
away. Charles and I talk more with Hector, our waiter, and order cervezas much
earlier. After dinner we have a few moments to relax before the group is going to
the wood workers shop. Just before we are about to leave we start talking with
Hector again and he invites us up to his room. This was my first very wide eye
opening experience setting in the room and listening to someone speak and
maybe understanding one out of ten words he says. This was when I realized
how bad my Spanish really was. He seemed very lonely and wanted to talk to us
so bad put no matter how hard we tried to communicate it seemed in vain. We
did learn however that his family had been killed in Mitch and he was the only
one left. He showed us pictures of his family. After forty minutes of rocky
conversation we finally had to leave. We then decided to go and look for the rest
of the group and wondered through town and finally wound up at the music shop
where then owner gave us a private concert and conversed in English with us.
With no luck finding the group we decided to head to Rudy’s to have some food
and drink and this is were we would stay until bed.
SATURDAY, MARCH 13
Another early morning but this time I slept a little better and the rooster did not
crow as loud. Today we have a long drive ahead of us on poor roads and crazy
traffic. It’s another six thirty breakfast and the group starts to arrive later and
later to eat. Hector is our waiter again and he seems in good spirits. After
breakfast I was touched when Hector presented Charles and I a key chain with
our initial stamped into the leather and a wooden pen with a tropical scene and
Honduras written on it. I felt horrible because I did not bring anything to give
anyone so I searched through my bag until I found my Oakley sunglasses, I’m
sure he would enjoy then more than I do so I gave them to him. We leave
Posada del Angel at eight a.m. and will not stop again until we reach Lago Yojoa
and eat lunch at the Hotel Finca las Glorias around twelve o’clock. The drive
does not seem to bad and once we approach the Yojoa area the scenery is a
feast for the eyes with the mountains covered in a sea of green surrounding the
lake and beautiful flowering trees line the road. People stand beside a stick
draped with fresh fish they have just caught hoping to sell some. We arrive at
Finca Las Glorias, a beautiful place, but very touristy and drive through the coffee
plantation to get to the restaurant. Everyone is hungry so it is decided that we
will eat lunch first. We order our food and cervezas and then another cerveza
and then another cerveza and then we finally get our food. It worked out rather
well though I thought because we got a good break from riding on the bus. After
lunch we toured the coffee plantation which was very interesting. We learned
what seeds are good to plant and that high altitude shaded coffee is the best
quality. We were also told the stunning amount that a person get paid for a days
work of picking coffee beans, eighty lempiras, not much. From Finca las Glorias
we would depart and undertake the second half of our road trip our final
destination being the Copan Ruinas. We arrive in the town of Copan after dark
and upon arrival at our hotel, which overlooks the Central Park, I see that this
town is jumping. People are every where conversing, drinking, laughing, and just
having a good time. We check into our hotel to find a most luxurious and
comfortable room with air conditioning. After the long trip everyone is hungry so
we immediately go to eat. After dinner a few of the guys to some bar and have a
few drinks. I find out that there is some kind of dance going on so I leave to go
check it out. It’s thirty lempiras to enter and I pay and go in. I walk into a large
outdoor amphitheater with a huge big screen hanging down and music videos
playing on it. The dance floor is packed with people doing my kind of dancing. I
sit down and watch for awhile. Around twelve o’clock I think the dance is about
to end so I leave and see Matt, Todd, Chris, playing hacky sack in the park and
decide to join them. I also see Charles and he is talking to a Honduran girl so I
decide to join him first. Her name was Lida and she is twelve years old. She
also could speak quite good English so that made our conversations bearable.
She seemed much older than her years would suggest. She seemed very
interested to talk to us and this would turn out to be an experience that we would
not have the chance to have again. We could ask her many questions that we
would not be able to ask adults. Around one o’clock every one was clearing out
and we had to get up somewhat early in the morning so we decided to go to bed.
Lidia said she would see us tomorrow and we then went to bed.
SUNDAY, MARCH 14
Kaboom! I’m not really sure what time it started by I thought we were
under attack. Several loud explosions went off probably around three or four in
the morning more than likely waking every one in the town up. It was then
followed by blaring music that seemed to be playing right outside our window.
This lasted for about an hour and then it finally stopped and I was able to fall right
back asleep for at least a few more hours. Today was our sleep late day. We did
not have to be anywhere until ten o’clock. I wake up about seven thirty and
decide to skip the plato tipico. Clayton and Dr. Hallgren have decided to go to
the ruins at eight and I decided to go with them. We walk to the Ruins, which are
about a mile out of town. Along the way we see several shops many I would like
to look in later. Just outside town is a river whose bridge had been destroyed
from Mitch and had still not been repaired. We arrive at the ruins at just after
eight and there are only a few other people there. We pay our ten dollars and
then head for the ruins. The morning is cool and overcast and it is very pleasant
to be outside, little do I expect the impact of what I am about to see. My first
initial look of the ruins is of the vast great plaza and the scattered statues
throughout. I stop, I stare, I wonder. A light mist begins to fall and the dry grass
laps up the minute amount of water and deepens its shade of green. I wonder
around the great plaza and the court of the Hieroglyphic stairway not knowing
then what they were and stand in amazement. I am so glad I came early, I feel I
had a unique experience seeing the ruins in complete silence. We continue to
comb the ruins in no hurry and traveling to no particular destination, taking our
time and soaking up some meaning form the surroundings. Around ten o’clock
Dr. Hallgren and I head back to the visitors center to meet to rest of the group but
before we do we decide to have a cup of coffee in the Cafeteria. A little after ten
the rest of the group arrives and we meet our guide, Oscar Lara, who will give us
our tour. I can not stress how beneficial it was for me to see the ruins first and
then see them again with their explanation behind them. Our guide was
excellent and I listened to every word he said. After our tour we headed to the
Cafeteria to eat lunch but I decided to skip it and just had some ice cream.
Charles and I went to the museum and walked around it for about forty-five
minutes before we decided to walk back to the hotel. Clayton would join us for
our walk back. We stopped out a little store just outside the ruins, which would
give us our first bargaining experience. I purchased some wallets, and Charles
bought some cheap authentic Copan cigars. We then headed back to the town
to do some more shopping. Just as we got into town I noticed at a soccer game
was going to start. I wanted to watch but I didn’t. Back at the hotel the Central
Park was lined with peddlers selling statues and necklaces. I was trying to buy
some necklaces from some kid when he suddenly ran down the street and soon
almost every one in the plaza followed. I didn’t know what was going on so I just
stood there and looked at the necklaces. Pretty soon the flow of people who had
just gone down the street were coming back up it. I then saw a group of men or
young boys shouting at each other. I then saw one of the men raise a beer bottle
and fling it at the other man. The man ducked and the bottle broke into a million
pieces like an exploding grenade and a few shards of glass fell on my arm. I
then jumped out of the way like a streak of white lighting and watch a man
holding a younger man in a chokehold while another whipped him with a belt.
Soon the men and the flow of the crowd reached the central of the park where
the fight some how stopped and the guilty parties were dragged of somewhere
by angry villagers, no police. As soon as it was over everyone returned back to
their places like nothing had happened, and I bought my necklaces. Latter that
day I saw Lidia again and we talked for about two hours. She introduced me to
two more of her friends, Aleda, and I don’t remember the other ones name. She
finally had to end up leaving to go eat dinner and watch a movie but she said she
would be back around seven or so and might see me. I went to eat also with
Charles and Clayton at some little restaurant in Copan. On the way to the
restaurant boy, in worn and ratty clothes, sad eyes, and a dirty face told us he
was very hungry. We paid little attention to him but my heart bled. We had a
very good dinner with cervezas. I ordered an extra plato tipico to go and hoped
to give it to him on our way back but I never say him again. When we got back
from eating I few of us decided to go the bar and have a few drinks. When we
got to the bar Lidia and her friend were waiting outside. Everyone else went
inside but I stayed out side to talk for a while. Soon afterwards she had to leave
and I went into the bar for a few drinks.
MONDAY, MARCH 15
I slept much better last night no crazy sudden awakenings by explosions
or loud music. Once again I decide to skip breakfast and sleep a little longer until
seven o’clock. We headed back to the Parque Arqueologico de Copan Ruinas
for another program. Today’s program would be different however. We were
meet by a Harvard Ph.D. Student who would give us an excellent lecture on the
land use practices of the Maya culture and their Ideologies. After this
presentation I think I would really like to change the focus of my paper to make it
have something to do with the ruins and the Maya. The archaeologist who gave
the morning lecture really looked liked he loved his job and where he was at and
where he was going. This is how I want to feel about my career. After the
lecture we were then given a special treat that almost didn’t happen. We were
the first tourists to go into the underground tunnels of the ruins. We were even
able to see the Rosalila. I can’t describe what it was like walking through the
Jaguar Tunnel but it was a wonderful experience, I could have spent hours
searching and combing the different corridors. From the ruins we were to go to
lunch in La Entrada a little over an hours drive away. Driving during the daylight
this time we were able to see considerable hurricane damage to many bridges.
We arrive at La Terraza around noon, which is in the middle of a very busy
medium sized town with people everywhere. We eat lunch which is not very
good and then get back on the bus and depart for the Jardin Botanico de
Lancetilla, which is a four hour drive away. On the drive we got to see extensive
oil palm plantation and banana plantations. As soon as we turned down the road
the led to the garden and passed the guarded gate is was like we were in a
different world. On both sides of a narrow natural stone road a wall of thick
jungle shot up from the ground. I was about a three-mile drive to the actual and
the scenery did not change and I could not take the smile off my face. This place
was buzzing with life. We arrived at our very humble dormitories, which over
looked a pond with hundred of flower water lilies. After unpacking we have about
thirty minutes to wonder around before dinner so Charles and I take advantage of
it. We walk and come across giant stalks of bamboo, which have formed a roof
over the road for about a hundred. We stop in the middle and are completely
silent. Charles turns on his tap recorder and records the song of the birds,
orchestrating a live symphony for us. We walk a little further and see a village
girl probably about 12 or so who told us we did not want to go any farther
because there were snakes. This was just the motivation I needed to keep going
but our time had ran out and we needed to get back to meet the rest of the
group. For dinner we would travel to Tela where we would get our first look at
the ocean and have dinner on the beach. It was another long wait for dinner but
is was very welcome it gave the group time to talk and drink and have a good
time. We Meet Jose Melgar today whom for some reason I liked instantly. After
dinner I could not resist getting my feet wet and went down to the ocean and
came back a little wet. All in all another good day.
TUESDAY, MARCH 16
We wake up for a super early breakfast at five thirty in the morning. I get up and
stumble out of bed and head to the showers where if I wasn’t awake before I am
now. The Showers were freezing, so cold my head started to hurt when I
washed my hair. Needless to say it was a quick shower. I headed over to the
visitor’s center for breakfast and I am the first student there. The breakfast looks
great a large table is full of many different kinds of foods and fruits. After
breakfast we are headed to Tela for a program with PROLANSATE which would
consist of a boat tour, a swim in the Caribbean, and a fish fry with a native
Garifuna village. Once again the sky is over cast and the unfavorable weather
has changed some plans we were not able to visit Punta Sal because of high
seas. This was a major disappointment because I think this place would have
been awesome. We had a discussion on the beach of the role and function of
PROLANSATE. We then boarded the boats, which would first take us to Miami,
a Garifuna village, when a native boy climbed up a tree and threw down coconut
for any one who wanted one. I have never had a coconut like this before it was
so good. From there we would then again board the boats and take a tour
through the mangroves. I enjoyed the boat ride very much and just being out on
the water. Because of the high seas alternative arrangements were made and
instead of going to Punta Sal we went to visit more agroforestry operations. It
was a nice hike and we got to see some houses in the back woods but other than
that it wasn’t too interesting. After the program we loaded in the boats again and
spent some more time motoring around the lagoon until lunch, which had been
moved from its original spot. It was still in a Garifuna community and the beans
and rice were very good. It did not seem however like we discussed their culture
very much if in fact at all. I would have like to know what would happen if all the
palm tress contracted a disease that was spreading around the coast since they
depend on them so much. We finished lunch about one thirty or so and were
given the option to swim in the ocean if we wanted. I have seen the Caribbean
several times before and I have never seen the waves as big as they are today. I
wade out into the warm water and brace myself as the first wave hits me. This
swim was a battle. Sometimes the waves would take your feet out and then
crash over the top of you and throw you into the sand below and finally roll you a
couple times. This happened several times and I got my share of salt water up
my nose and in my mouth. We swim for almost two hours straight and even
though by the end I am totally exhausted I still don’t want to leave. This was one
of the most fun afternoons so far. After swimming around four o’clock we head
back into Tela to do some shopping in a supermercado and by some rum, which
was very good and very cheap, I wish I would have gotten a few more bottles. I
had been told some horror stories about Tela so I kept my eye out but everything
seemed fine and I had no problems. We then went back to the dormitory and
cleaned up before dinner and once again I took a freezing cold shower but this
time it felt a little better to wash all the salt off by body. For dinner we went to
some fancy resort and it was pretty good but I really didn’t care because I was so
tired. As soon as we go back to the dormitory I went straight to bed and passed
out and didn’t wake up again until the morning.
WEDNESDAY, MARCH 17
I get up and go straight to breakfast waiting to take my shower after our
hike to the biological reserve. I am very excited about this hike because it could
be our best change to see some wildlife. Beginning with an hour overview and
history of the garden followed by a tour of the garden. Ciro Navarro, the director
of the garden, is our guide. This morning the sun is out and the humidity is
higher than it has been the previous days and I beginning to sweat. There are
many strange trees in the garden, but none stranger that the strychnine tree and
the curious tree. The trail into the reserve requires our group to ford a river.
Scattered rocks are the only bridges across and many require skillful jumps. I try
to get across by jumping from rock to rock and still protecting my camera at the
same time. On one jump my foot slip off a rock and my foot got wet and from
then on I just said screw it and waded knee deep across the river. The cool
water felt very good and I almost wanted to take a swim. To my disappointment
chainsaws were running clearing debris left from Mitch so no wildlife watching
today. The hike is spectacular though this forest is so dense. One thing that
really sucked is that we were very rushed for time, and once again like the forest
at La Tigra I could have spent all day here. We hike as far as the giant Ceiba
tree, which is gigantic. It was not all that tall but its diameter could easily many
redwoods I have seen. Ciro brings up the point that this tree alone houses more
species on it than some house in their whole country. We are already running
late and Dr. Kuzmic tells Ciro to take the quickest way down and that is exactly
what he does. He takes us straight down the mountain not even on a trail.
Everyone was falling and I even fell a few times. I really enjoyed this experience;
this is something you don’t get to do everyday. I like to get of the beaten path
sometimes. After the hike we come back to the river and this time I don’t even
bother to try to stay dry I just wade right across. I think everyone ended up
getting a little wet except Menelio. I am soaked with sweat and the cold showers
actually sound well. We have lunch at the gardens and here I get to watch a
soccer game be played by the school children, which is very entertaining. From
Lancetilla we headed to ESNACIFOR another three to four hour drive away.
This time I rode in the truck with Jose Melgar and it did not seem to take near as
long. I also got to ask many questions. We arrive at ESNACIFOR around four
o’clock it is a bright sunny day. We are shown to our rooms where we have only
a few minutes to rest before our activities with ESNACIFOR begin. We are first
introduced to Manuel Hernandez the director of the school and he gives us an
interesting program but one that gave me the impression that know one knows
what is really going on in the country and far as land use policy. He did however
seem very optimistic. After this program we are given a tour of the campus
facilities. We see their seed bank program, their sawmill, the library, and a few
classrooms. We visited one room that had a huge bug collection that was
amazing. After the tour for some reason instead of eating we were taken to the
cultural night activities where I start to get a little nervous about introducing my
slide. The ESNACIFOR students present their program first it consists of songs,
a poetry read, a fashion show, traditional Honduran dancers and a few other
things. By now it is getting pretty late and every one in our group is getting
hungry, but first we must give our program. We all go up on stage and I await my
slide. My knees are weak when my slide finally appears but I have practiced
what I am going to say several times and I spit it out. Como estan. Me allamo
Jeremy. Tengo vienteydos anos. Me gusta cerveca y football. Mi photographia
es de Oklahoma. Es muy bonito pero Honduras es mucho mejor. After our slide
show we sang two songs, Home on the Range and Take me out to the ball
game. It was about ten thirty or eleven o’clock when the show was finished and
we were hungry. They had prepared for us a barbecue dinner and we went to
eat. At the barbecue I was able to talk with the music teacher of ESNACIFOR.
He had many interesting things to say and it would have been nice if I could have
talked with him longer but it was getting late and we had to go.
THURSDAY, MARCH 18
I woke up at five thirty and went to the bathroom to take a shower and as
luck would have it the shower would not work, so I had to do without. We ate
breakfast and then went on a field tour of the ESNACIFOR forest. The roads
were very steep, narrow, and rocky and I really wasn’t in the mood for this type of
drive. We finally stop and viewed ESNACIFOR’s charcoal operation and were
given a description of how it works. We then got back in our vehicles and
proceeded to another spot in the highland pine forest when students were felling
trees and some workers were skidding the logs with oxen. I was very impressed
with the hands on real life application in which manner the students were taught.
I sometimes think this makes more sense then a lot of the bullshit theories we
learn about in almost any college major. After this we were taken to a
mountaintop to view a cable yarding system, the only one in Honduras. After this
we went back to the rooms, packed and as quickly as we had came we were
gone. I had expected to spend more time at ESNACIFOR and especially to have
more interactions with the students, in which we practically had none. We were
rushed of to eat lunch and because we were behind schedule we did not get to
meet the people from Sansone. Instead we went to a shelf mill, where the
people didn’t even act like they wanted us there, and you couldn’t hear anything I
guide said over the noise anyway. This is the only thing on the trip so far that I
don’t think was worth while. After touring the mill the traveled back into
Tegucigalpa where we would stay the next two nights. The Hotel MacArthur,
where we stayed, was just outside the heart of Tegucigalpa. This city has
different aura about it, very busy. I don’t seem to feel as comfortable here as I
have every where else in Honduras. We were on our own for dinner tonight and
we walk through the city and the people. Clayton, Charles, and I decide to eat at
Little Ceasars and this is probably one of the best meals I have ever had. After
dinner we walk around a little but there is really nothing to do so we decide to
head back to the hotel and drink some cervezas. I have still not quite recovered
from my battle with the ocean and after a few cold ones I go to bed.
FRIDAY, MARCH 19
I wake up at six and take a shower in some nice warm water and them go
down stairs for breakfast. Today we are going to the Sansone Company to view
their logging mill and forest management sites. I finally get to buy a hammock
that I have been looking for the whole trip just in front of our hotel before we
leave. We arrive at Sansone and tour the mill. It is quite different from the mills
in the United States because they don’t seen to have as many safety regulations
but other than that if you’ve seen one mill you have seen them all. After we
toured the mill Jose Munoz ordered a huge cook out for the group on their
management. It seemed like we drove for hours down a dirt road and I was
wonder where the hell we were going. Finally we stopped at a spot in the middle
of nowhere and unloaded the grill and started cooking. I have never seen so
much meat in my entire life. The weather today was perfect the sun was shining
and a light breeze was blowing. The pine trees provided ample shade. We
played hacky sack and drank cervezas and ate for most of the day and it was
very pleasant. A very nice relaxing day. We spent most of the afternoon in the
forest and then headed back to Tegucigalpa. This would be our last night in
Honduras and everyone decided to do their own thing. A group of people
headed down to Shakespeare Book Co. to buy some cigars but the owner was
in jail and all the cigars were at his house. We ended up eating at Little Ceasars
again and it was just as good the second night. We walked around for a little
while again but there just wasn’t anything to do so we decided to come back to
the hotel and have a few drinks. It was Dr. Kuzmic’s birthday so the group
congregated on the roof and threw him a little party. I still haven’t fully recovered
from my battle with the ocean and the early mornings and late nights are
beginning to catch up with me. I go to bed exhausted.
SATURDAY, MARCH 20
I wake up Saturday and the first thing I think about is I can’t believe I have
to go home today. I get up and take a shower and then stroll down town with
Clayton and to get some breakfast at the bakery. I get a fresh loaf of French
bread. The streets are pretty empty only a few people walking around, the
vendors are not set up yet. I waste some time and then head back to the hotel to
pack my things before we leave; my bag is five times as heavy as when I arrived.
Before we went to the airport we were to visit the Parque Naciones Unidas and
Montana El Picacho. On top of this mountain over looking the city there is this
huge statue of Jesus. United Nations Park was a wonderful place a great
hideaway from the crazy city below. When we got to the park the group was
summoned together and some reflections were made on the trip by the
professors and any students who wanted to say something could. For me this
reflection and the words of the professors really hit home and gave me a feeling I
can not explain but it was a good feeling. I felt part of a group that had just been
through a drastic change. I really did not notice it before until Jim mentioned it
but once he did I felt it my self. In a way I had grown up a little, I could add
another chapter of experiences to my life. I had learned so many things in the
past ten days and none of it I could have learned from a book. We had a few
extra minutes to wonder through the garden and these few minutes I will treasure
forever. From the park we departed for the airport and still all I could think about
is that I did not want to leave. We arrived and checked in our baggage only to
find out that our plane had been delayed for two hours. I took a seat in the
terminal and just watched the people in the airport for a while. Soon a beautiful
young woman came up to me and tried to get me to by some tape of Honduras
for twenty. We ended up talking for a while she would speak a little bit of English
and I a little Spanish so we could some what communicate. I was really enjoying
talking to her but when she realized I was not going to buy a tape she had to
leave. I then went up stairs to do some last minute shopping and I bought a few
things. About an hour later the girl I had been talking to earlier came up stairs
and said she wanted to talk some more. So we talked for about forty-five
minutes, I bought her a coke and unfortunately the flight was called and I had to
leave. I was able to get her address and phone number. I don’t know if I will
ever write her but I might. We finally got one the plane after a long delay and we
were going back to the United States. Because of our delay in Honduras we
were going to be cutting it very close on our connecting flight. When we arrived
in Houston we had only twenty minutes to make our connection and go through
customs. I was so used to speaking Spanish that when the customs agent asks
if I was an U.S. citizen I said Si. After customs I had to mall walk about a mile
and we just nearly made the plane. I must make a note to myself that drinks are
free on the airplane when a meal is served. Upon arriving at the Houston airport
every thing seemed different, the people were not as friendly; I just did not want
to be here. On the plane from Houston to Tulsa I sat next to this Indian woman
who told me her life story. When we got to Tulsa I was exhausted, depressed,
and if nothing else I just wanted to get home. All things said and done this was a
wonderful trip but right now I am not in the mood to reflect just how great it was.
I’ll save that for another day.
SUNDAY, MARCH 21
My biological alarm clock is still set for the early morning. I wake up at
seven a.m. and lay in bed. It doesn’t feel right to be here in my own bed so far
from where I was yesterday. I get up and feel restless, like I should be doing
something but I don’t know what to do. The sun is out and shining and the
temperature is nice. I walk outside and sit down and try to reflect on the past ten
days. I have a test tomorrow but I don’t think I am going to study for it. It just
doesn’t seem to matter anymore. I think about the people and places I have just
been and wonder what they are doing today. Their lives are going along as
usual and I’m sure they are not thinking of me. I envision my next chance when I
will be able to go back and I can’t wait. I finally pull myself together and go to
Wal-Mart to get my pictures developed. Everything is the same but somehow I
feel different. When I go to pick up the pictures I see Charles and his wife and I
talk with them a while. It was good to see someone who somewhat knew how I
was feeling. When I get back home I look at the pictures several times and recall
the memories as vividly as if I were there. I don’t want to go to school tomorrow,
but I know I will and soon I will fall back into the same everyday life that I was
living before I left.