THERE ARE MANY WAYS TO EXPLORE THE GRAND
CANYON.BUT WHETHER YOU SEE IT BY MULE, BY
HELICOPTER OR BY RAFT, OUR JOURNALIST IN ARIZONA
EXPLAINS WHY IT IS ONE OF NATURE'S MIRACLES...
Before you even see
the Grand Canyon,
its statistics are
intimidating: it is
almost two kilometers
deep, a maximum of
28 kilometers wide,
and 446 kilometers
long. It's taken a long
time to form, too - the
Colorado River began its work more than two
billion" years ago. As soon as you see the
Canyon, you're struck with a feeling of awe" at
its grandeur. It's easy to understand why this
is one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the
World.
It's also no surprise that the Canyon is one of
the USA's most popular National Parks. Every
year, five million tourists come here. Ironically,
even 100km from the nearest large town,
there can be traffic jams. Luckily, that's not a
problem for visitors who arrive on the old train,
which is what I always recommend.
As soon as you get away from the cars, this is
a wild and beautiful place. Most tourists arrive
at the South Rim
At an elevation of more than 2,000 meters, the
perfumed pine forests create long shadows'
that help create pleasant temperatures in the
mid-80s (30 °C), even in the burning Arizona
summer. The North Rim is much quieter, but
has few services for visitors.
THE CANYON'S COLORS CHANGE, AS IF
PART OF A GIANT KALEIDOSCOPE
There are plenty of ways to enjoy the natural
spectacle. You can choose from helicopter
rides, guided walks, bus tours, rafting, and
much more.
People who just come for a day often opt for a
relaxed walk along the 4.8-km Rim Trail",
which is paved and easy to negotiate. The trail
gives ample opportunities to pause and
admire the cliffs" and rocks sculpted by the
river and the wind. As the sun is filtered by the
clouds, the rich reds and grays in the Canyon
walls change, as if part of a giant
kaleidoscope.
For visitors who don't have much time,
the 12-km South Rim bus tour follows the
Canyon's rim and stops at a number of
observation points. It's not unusual to see
deer grazing" by the road. Those who
don't have vertigo can look down and see
the brown Colorado River winding" along
the bottom of the Canyon. If you're lucky
you may see a massive, black bird with a
yellow leg tag". This is a juvenile
California condor, reintroduced to its
native habitat in an effort to save it from
extinction. Today, . the only danger to
their survival is the public's desire to feed"
them.
More athletic visitors go down into the
Canyon on foot. Following the Bright
Angel Trail takes two days. It requires lots
of water, sturdy" shoes, an overnight stay
and a head" for heights. If you do decide
to sleep in the Canyon, the only
accommodation is Phantom Ranch.
This old stone lodge with simple dormitories is so popular that it's always
reserved a year in advance, which is why
many hikers camp. You need to get a
camping permit, and to be prepared for
some extreme conditions. You also have
to take all your food, and to keep in mind
that summer temperatures on the
Canyon's floor can reach 46 °C. Apart
from sunburn and dehydration, the only
dangers are the occasional flood and rock
slide...
RAFTING IS
THE ULTIMATE
WAY TO ENJOY
THE GRAND
CANYON
EXPERIENCE
For those who
want to go down
into the Canyon
but don't want to walk back up again,
there are mule trips. These are great fun.
The sturdy little animals, a cross between
a female horse and a male donkey, are
specially trained for canyon trekking.
They ma] not look or feel very stable, but
are actually safer than walking. Hiker;
occasionally fall in, but there has never
been a mule or rider lost over the edge
Perhaps the ultimate Grand Canyon
experience s rafting. The river has 7
major rapids, and a rafting trip give you a
real adrenalin rush as your boa gets
submerged by enormous waves of icy
water. Such moments are followed by
serene interludes, until an everincreasing" roar ahead tells you that
you're about to get another dose of
adrenalin. You have to go with a
commercial company that has the permits
and experienced guides to negotiate the
river's 70 major rapids. The trips vary
from a few days to three weeks.
As well as its natural splendor, the
Canyon offers lots of human interest
Miners came here in the 19th century in
search of silver and copper. They found
that the Canyon offered more in visual
riches than mineral resources, and soon
the tourists began to arrive.
NAVIGATING THE COLORADO
RAPIDS IN A PRIMITIVE BOAT
A record of this early tourism is found at
Kolb Studio, built on the rim of the
Canyon in 1904 by two photographers,
the brothers Ellsworth and Emery Kolb.
Here, visitors can see an excellent exhibition of their photos of Victorian ladies
and gentlemen walking the Canyon's rim
and riding mules. Their film of tourists
negotiating the Colorado rapids in a
primitive boat is a classic. The region's
original inhabitants are also represented
at the Canyon. Hopi House was built in
1905 as a place for Native Americans to
sell their crafts'. It is still an excellent
place to buy authentic jewellery, paintings
and rugs by Navajo and Hopi people. It
was built in pueblo style by Hopi workmen, but it is not a Native-American
building: it was designed by architect
Mary Colter. Born in Pennsylvania in
1869, she was ahead of her time. In a
profession dominated by men, many
of whom regarded Native Americans as
savages, she persuaded people to let her
create buildings that respected NativeAmerican culture. Using local materials,
she built six of the most beautiful
structures around the Canyon. With all
these things to visit and protect, the
National Park's guides and rangers have
a busy time. As guide Richard Ederer told
me: "It's wonderful to see so many people
appreciating our Canyon. But I do look
forward to the quieter winter months,
when snow covers the juniper trees, and
jays quibble over pine nuts."
THE CANYON IS ALMOST DESERTED
DURING THE WINTER MONTHS
Far fewer tourists brave the canyon in the
winter, and the North Rim is closed from
the end of October to mid-May. Those
who do visit the Canyon face freezing
winds; but in return they get the pleasure
of walking along almost-deserted trails,
following deer tracks in the pristine
surface of the snow.
Whatever season you go in, you'll be left
with an appreciation for an area that
Americans say "reflects Mother Nature's
smile". She took her time sculpting the
magnificent Canyon, and has created
something that is, of course, still a work in
progress.
The Grand Canyon
Railway
For a look at
how the
West used
to be, you
can board"
the historic
Grand
Canyon
Railway. Built in 1901 by the Santa Fe
line, it carried goods and people between
the town of Williams and the Canyon for
67 years, until competition from the car
made it uneconomic. But in 1989,
environmental awareness' and traffic
problems gave it new life, and today it is a
viable means of transportation once
again, as well as an Old West experience.
Of course, no Old West experience is
complete without a gunfight", so before
visitors get aboard, they'll see a group of
"real" cowboys settling an argument* in
traditional fashion, with a Colt 45. The
train whistle" signals that it's time to board
the beautifully-restored 1923 Pullman car.
As the station disappears, panoramic
windows give superb views of the pine
and juniper forests. Just over two hours
later, the train pulls into the Grand
Canyon Depot, a historic log" building a
few minutes walk from
the Canyon's South Rim. The train stops
here for three hours, while visitors are
able to explore Grand Canyon Village,
have lunch and take a relaxing walk along
the Rim. Old West excitement erupts
once again on the return trip when
bandits on horseback "attack" the train.
Luckily, Marshall John B. Goodmore is
there to repel' the attack, and he boasts"
that he hasn't lost a single passenger yet.
Practical Information The 100-km oneway trip to the Grand Canyon takes two
hours 15 mins. Do the round trip in a
single day, or stay at the Canyon
overnight, returning to Williams the
following day. Tickets cost $54.95 plus
tax and park entry fee. Call (00 1 800)
863-0546 for information, or go to
www.thetrain.com.
BEFORE YOU
READ
1. a. How much do you know about the Grand Canyon? Choose the correct answer. If you don't
know the right answer, guess!
1. Where's the Grand Canyon?
a) In the north of the USA.
b) In the west of the USA.
c) In the east
of the USA.
2. How long is it?
a) About 250 kilometres.
b) About 350 kilometres.
c) About
450 kilometres.
3. What's the name of the river that runs through the Grand Canyon?
a) Amarillo.
b) Hudson.
c) Colorado.
4. Which of the following things can't you do at the Grand Canyon?
a) Bungee jumping.
b) Camping.
c) Rafting.
5. Which of the following Native American peoples didn't live in the region of the Grand
Canyon?
a)The Hopi.
b) The Inuit.
c) The
Navajo.
b. Were you right? Quickly read pages 6-10 and check your answers.
WHILE YOU READ
2.a. Read the whole text more carefully. True or False?
1. You do not often see California condors at the Canyon .................................................................................................
2. There are lots of places to stay in the Canyon ...............................................................................................................
3. The writer does not recommend taking a mule trip ......................................................................................................
4. Rafting trips can last for a few weeks ............................................................................................, .............................
5. Miners found gold and silver at the Canyon .................................................................................................................
6. The Grand Canyon Railway carried only people for 67 years........................................................................................
b. Compare your answers with another student.
3. Read the text again and find words or expressions that mean the following:
a) very hot (page 6) ..........................................................................................................................................................
b)edge (page 6)................................................................................................................................................................
c) enormous (page 7) ........................................................................................................................................................
d) large bedrooms where lots of people can sleep (page 8) ...............................................................................................
e) a mixture of (page 8) ....................................................................................................................................................
f) get on (page 9) .............................................................................................................................................................
WRITING
4. Use the words below to write a short paragraph on the Grand Canyon Railway. You may
have to add words and conjugate the verbs.
Before / visitor / board / car / cowboys / have / shoot-out / at / station. / Whistle / blow / people /
get on / train. / Train / arrive / Grand Canyon Depot / after / travel / pine and juniper forests. /
Three hours later / train / start / return trip. / During / trip / bandits / horseback / attack / train.